Mt Katsubo (454m), Hinode Town & Akiruno City, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, April 25, 2026

I found out about this hike at the eastern edge of the Okutama mountains valley by checking locations on Google Maps. Apparently the trail is maintained by three different local hiking associations and is not yet featured in any guidebooks. Looking online, I saw I could make a loop from Musashi-Itsukaichi station. After enjoying the three viewpoints located near the summit, I’d follow the ridgeline west, and then south, past 3 minor summits. Along the way, I could make a short detour to a famous tree.

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line to Haijima station, and then change to the Itsukaichi line which I’d ride to the last station. There, I’d board a bus for just a few minutes to the Oguno JHS stop, a short distance from the trail entrance. From the end of the hike, I could walk back to the station; along the way, I could take a shortcut along a section of an ancient old. The weather was supposed to be overcast in the morning turning sunny in the afternoon, with temperatures cool for the season. I was looking to forward to climbing a new peak close to Tokyo.

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Start of the hike (left) Past the Mt Katsubo Forest Road Viewpoint (right)

Trail past Mt Katsubo (left) Sennen no Chigiri Sugi (right)

Clouds covered the entire sky as I rode the Green car from Shinjuku station, the complete opposite from my previous hike two weeks before. I got off the bus around 10:30am and took my time to get to the trail entrance, hoping the cloud cover would break soon. After a small detour via the quiet Sachigami Shrine (幸神神), here and there Japanese irises (“shaga”) in full bloom, I reached the start of the hike on the left bank of Hirai river; it was marked by 3 sets of handmade signs, one for each local hiking association.

Trail past Mt Fukasawa (left) Trail before the Azuma (right)

Trail past the Azuma (left) Near the End of the Hike (right)

I was surprised to see 3 competing sets of signs; the Mt Hinode Association ones seemed the sturdiest, short square poles embedded in the ground, although I had to squat to read the printed information. At 11am, I started up a grassy slope and entered a mixed forest. Past some tall pines, the trail crossed a forest road and dived back into the forest; however, I soon popped back onto the same road, the hiking path being just a shortcut, and turned right. Half an hour after setting off from the trail entrance, I reached the Mt Katsubo Forest road viewpoint (勝峰山林道展望広場), a wide open space with a view on the east side.

Sachigame Shrine with “shaga” in Full Bloom

Walking the Left Bank of Hirai River to the Trail Entrance

I was thrilled to reach a viewpoint so soon after setting off. I set my pack down next to one of the picnic tables for a short break to admire the view. Straight ahead I could observe the Hirai river valley, the various buildings looking like toy models from this high vantage point; beyond, I recognised the Hamura Kusabana Hills south of the Tama river; on the right side, I could see the Akigawa river valley with the Akigawa Hills along its south side; in the far distance the Tokyo suburbs filled up the Kanto Plain. According to a signboard, a scene from a popular drama has been filmed at this location.

End of the Shortcut and Start of the Forest Road

Picnic Table at the Mt Katsubo Forest Road Viewpoint

It felt chilly on this overcast Spring day but I imagined this would be a nice spot for a picnic in warmer weather. I lingered till the noon chime, hoping the sun would come out. I followed a wide and well-maintained trail, spaced out log steps protecting the steeper sections from erosion. After passing by a second viewpoint with a similar view from before, and then under the branch of an ancient tree, propped up by a wooden support, I headed down a side trail on the right to the third viewpoint shown on Google Maps. This one was a little disappointing as it was partially blocked by the vegetation. I retraced my steps and very soon reached the top of Mt Katsubo (勝峰山 かつぼうやま katsubouyama meaning “victory peak”), a pleasant grassy summit surrounded by trees but with a partial view on the north side.

View of the Hirai River Valley and Hamura Kusabana Hills

View of the Akigawa River Valley and the Akigawa Hills

I was lucky to have the summit entirely to myself. Since it was 12:30pm, I sat on a bench for an early lunch, right next to a large golden bell called the “Bell of Happiness” (幸せの鐘). According to a signpost it had been moved several years ago from the nearby summit of Mt Hinode (visible through the trees) and the custom is to ring it three times: the first for happiness, the second for peace, and the third for hope. Just as I finished my lunch, the sun suddenly came out, briefly bathing the summit area in light.

Log steps on the way to Mt Katsubo

Branch Supported by a Wooden Prop

Looking up, I was relieved to see that large patches of blue sky had finally appeared. After relaxing at the top for nearly one hour, I continued my hike, and after some descending, reached a junction; to the right was the trail for Mt Aso and Mt Hinode which I hope to do one day. I ventured down it a short way and was rewarded with a wide view of the Hinode Alps to the north. I continued along the left branch, following the narrow ridgeline south, and soon reached a turnoff for the famous tree, down in the valley. After about ten minutes of descending a rough path, I spotted a huge double-trunked tree, called “Sennen no Chigiri Sugi” (千年の契り杉) meaning “The Cedar of the Thousand-Year Vow”.

Final Steps before the Summit of Mt Katsubo

View North from Mt Katsubo

I approached this ancient cedar with wonder. Like for Tarosugi, a circular path allowed me to admire this 45 meter-high giant from several angles, its expansive crown filling the space above. I then made my way back to the ridgeline, and after a short ascent, reached the minor summit of Mt Fukusawa (深沢山 ふかさわやま 460m). Since it was completely in the trees, I continued without a break. The next section took me through some beautiful mixed forest, the silence occasionally interrupted by birdsong, no other hikers along this lonely trail; it was hard to believe I was within walking distance of a train station. After passing a neglected open shelter (“azuma“), I had an unexpected view southwards through a gap in the vegetation.

Summit of Mt Katsubo Bathed in Sunlight

Hinode Alps from the Trail for Mt Aso and Mt Hinode

I was delighted to get another view at this stage of the hike. Looking south I could see the Akigawa Hills extend eastwards under mostly blue skies. I set off again, quickly descending through thick forest, passing another minor summit, Mt Tameguso (ためぐそ山 ためぐそやま 327m) along the way. Despite the three signpost system, several junctions were unmarked, and I had to rely on my phone GPS to find the correct path; this perhaps explains why it’s shown as a dotted line on some maps. At 3pm, I arrived at the third and final minor summit of the day, Mt Jizo (地蔵山 じぞうやま 323m), marked by a small Jizo statue. After a short break, I resumed my hike.

The Cedar of the Thousand-Year Vow

View South past the Open Shelter

I headed steadily downhill through tall cedars that shielded me from the afternoon sunlight. Here and there, I saw signs of civilisation; after a steep but short section, lined with a rope for safety, I popped onto a small paved road. It was only 3h30pm so I headed back to the station at a leisurely pace, enjoying the garden flowers in full bloom. I saw white and puffy Japanese Snowballs (odemari), yellow Banksia Roses (mokkobara) and Irises (ayame). I soon arrived at the turnoff for Maiamai Slope (まいまい坂 meaning “snail slope”), part of an ancient road connecting Ome and Itsukaichi. A couple of minutes later, I reached a small metallic bridge over a stream at the base of the slope.

Trail between Mt Tameguso and Mt Jizo

Flower Field at the Base of Maimai Slope

Directly ahead, I had a charming view of a flower field under light blue skies, a typical spring scenery. I followed a paved road up the opposite slope at the top of which I was suddenly inside a residential neighbourhood. A short walk through the streets brought me back to Musashi-Itsukaichi station where, after sampling some local sake at the Newdays sake server, I caught the local train for Haijima station. There, I boarded the Green car for the comfortable one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Ohane (992m) & Mt Makiyose (1182m), Hinohara Village, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, April 11, 2026

I wanted to visit Kazuma no Yu because it was the only hot spring resort I had never been to in the Okutama area. Looking at my map, I saw I could walk from the Akigawa valley up to the Sasaone Ridge which I’d then follow for a short while, before heading back into the valley, and ending at Kazuma hot spring, less than a kilometer from my starting point. I had already walked this portion of the Sasaone ridge but not the up and down sections. This hike is also recommended on the Hinohara Village website. On the way, I’d pass by two peaks, with views of the “Three Mountains of Okutama”, as well as Mt Fuji.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get the start of the hike, I’d ride the Ome line to Haijima station, and there, change to the Itsukaichi line for the short ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station. I’d ride a Nishi-Tokyo bus to the Sengen Ridge Trailhead bus stop, also the starting point for the Sengenrei hike on the opposite ridgeline. After a hot spring bath, I’d use the same route in reverse for the return. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny, ideal for spotting Mt Fuji, with temperatures average for the season. I happened to find out that Hinohara was a secret cherry blossom spot and so I was looking forward to catching some of the last sakura of the year.

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Start of the hike (left) Trail in the Chuo Ward Forest (right)

Entering the Cedar Forest (left) Walking the Sasaone Ridge (right)

It was a beautiful Spring day as I rode the quiet green car through Western Tokyo. I was seated comfortably for the 50-minute bus ride from the station, since extra buses were added to accommodate the higher number of passengers in this season. The Sengenone-tozanguchi (浅間尾根登山口) stop has a shelter with a bench, toilets and a vending machine, making it a great place to get ready for a hike. At 10am, I set off through the Chuo Ward Forest (中央区の森), a forest managed by Chuo City in central Tokyo.

Trail past Wada-toge (left) Trail past Nishihara-toge (right)

Trail for Kazuma-no-yu (left) End of the Hiking Trail (right)

I was delighted to be walking on a well-maintained trail, easier to walk than most trails in the Okutama area. Here and there were well-made signs with the tree names and pictures of their leaves, bark, fruit, etc..for easy identification. The forest was still in winter mode, sunlight streaming through the leafless branches onto the yellow leaves covering the gently ascending path. From time to time, I passed purple “tsutsuji” (azaleas), adding colour to the scenery. At 11h30, I arrived at a bench at the top of Mt Ohane (大羽根山 おおはねやま oohane-yama) with a view to the northeast.

A well-maintained Trail in the Chuo Ward Forest

Spring Sun on the Autumn Leaves

I was excited to get such a great view, so soon on my hike, especially since it wasn’t shown on my hiking map. Directly ahead was the triangular summit of Mt Gozen, and further away to its right, Mt Odake. According to the mountain panorama identification board, Mt Takanosu was also visible on the left side but was hidden by tall bright green larches. It was too early for a lunch break so after enjoying the view I set off again along a mostly level trail, leaving the Chuo Ward Forest behind. A few minutes later, I reached another bench, this time with a view to the northwest.

Entering the Larch Forest

Mt Gozen (left) & Mt Odake (right) from Mt Ohane

I felt lucky to get another splendid view, a signpost on a tree next to the log bench calling it “the perfect photo opportunity” (シャッターポイント). Looking ahead, I could see Mt Mito, only 2 of its 3 peaks visible from this angle; in the foreground, I spotted the white blossoms of a “mame-zakura” (Fuji cherry); in the far distance, the summit of Mt Kumotori was poking above the ridgeline. I had now completed my view of the “Okutama Sanzan” (the Okutama 3 Mountains: Mt Mito, Mt Gozen and Mt Odake). It was still early for lunch and I moved on regretfully. A little after noon, I came upon the first sign for Kazuma-no-Yu, the main target of today’s hike, and soon after, I turned right onto Sasaone ridge (笹尾根), which runs from Mt Takao to Mt Mito.

Bright Green Larches in the Foreground

Mt Mito (left) with Mame-zakura in the foreground

I was happy to be walking this pleasant ridge a second time in less than a month, its mostly gradual inclines making it a popular hiking area. For the first time of the day, I passed other hikers, still relatively few this early in the season. At 12h30, I arrived at some benches at Kazuma Pass (数馬峠). Since my last visit nearly 7 years ago, the vegetation had grown high enough to block the view on the south side; however, I was able to distinguish the shape of Mt Fuji through the branches; back in 2019, Japan’s highest mountain had been hiding behind thick clouds. I continued on my way, hoping for a better lunch spot further on. At 1pm, I reached Wada Pass (和田峠) with another view of Mt Fuji on the south side.

Mt Kumotori (center) above the Ridgeline

The “Perfect Photo Opportunity” past Mt Ohane

I was glad to get a better view of Japan’s most famous volcano, this time completely clear of vegetation; however, no benches meant I had to postpone my lunch break a little further. It was extremely pleasant walking along the peaceful, sunny ridgeline, along the border of Tokyo and Yamanashi prefectures; after a little climbing, I arrived at a junction at Nishihara Pass (西原峠). One final short climb brought me to the summit of Mt Makiyose (槇寄山 まきよせやま makiyose-yama) where a view of Fuji and a picnic table awaited me. Since it was now 1h30, I put down my pack for a late lunch break.

Walking the Sasaone Ridgeline

View of Mt Fuji from Wada-toge

It was one of the best views of Mt Fuji I’d ever had, its iconic snow cap still fully intact, rising well above the lower elevation mountains in the foreground; best of all, a yama-zakura (mountain cherry blossom tree) was in full bloom on the left side creating a very Japanese landscape. To the left, outside this frame, stood a tall solitary pine tree, adding an extra layer of charm to this summit. Mt Mitsutoge, to the right of Mt Fuji, was the only other peak I could clearly identify. At 2pm, I retraced my steps to Nishihara Pass, where I took the left trail descending back into the Akigawa valley.

Pleasant walking on the Tokyo Yamanashi Border

Mt Fuji from Mt Makiyose

I could walk at a relaxed pace since I was ahead of schedule, and thus could fully enjoy the beautiful nature of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. I continued straight at a junction in the midst of towering pines, and then started to descend a steep, twisting sunken path, log steps occasionally assisting one’s footing. Suddenly I emerged from the shade into a sunny pastoral landscape, forested foothills appearing ahead. After descending through a village along a paved road, here and there various types of blossom trees in full bloom, I arrived at the main road running along the base of the Akigawa river valley. I turned right and a few minutes later, reached Kazuma no Yu, a little after 3pm.

Mt Fuji and Cherry Blossoms

The Chuo Line Mountains & Mitsutoge (right)

I could take my time and relax in the “rotemburo” (outdoor bath), as I had a full hour before my departure time. Around 4pm, I boarded the bus for the ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station. Like on the way there, everyone could sit thanks to the extra buses. Through the window, I got a glimpse of the 400-year old “shidare-zakura” (weeping cherry blossom tree) in full bloom at the henbori (人里) stop; I hope I can return next spring for another hike starting or ending from there. A little after 5pm, I was back at the station where I boarded the train for the one-hour ride to Shinjuku.

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Mt Asama (594m) & Sakura Pass (566m), Ichikawa-Misato Town, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, March 29, 2026

I wanted to do a hike where I could see the cherry blossoms in full bloom. Looking online, I found a trail, selected as one of the 100 best in Yamanashi, that promised a cluster of sakura trees near a pass bearing the same name. On the way, I’d pass by a minor peak, and since the hiking time was under 3 hours, I could also make a short round trip to another minor peak further along the ridge. On the way to the trail entrance, I could get a view of the area from the Kai-Ueno Castle observation deck. From the pass, I would follow a forest road into the valley ending near Mitama no Yu hot spring, where I could get a hot spring bath before heading back.

Hiking in the Misaka Mountains 御坂山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express to Kofu station, and there, change to the Minobu line for the half hour trip to Kai-Ueno station. For the return, I’d take a taxi from the hot spring facility back to the station, and then follow the same route in reverse. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny with comfortable temperatures for hiking. According to online reports, the sakura had reached their peak a few days earlier, and so I was looking forward to a relaxing hike in a little-visited corner of Yamanashi prefecture.

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Start of the hike (left) Approaching Mt Asama (right)

Trail pastMt Yumitate (left) Walking along a monorail (right)

It was yet another blue sky day as I rode the Chuo line to Kofu where I transferred to the Minobu line for the next portion of the trip. I got off at Kai-Ueno station a little before noon, my first time getting off at this station. After a short walk, I reached the Kabuki Cultural Park (歌舞伎文化公園), packed with pink cherry blossom trees in full bloom. I paid the entrance fee for Kai-Ueno Castle (上野城址), a recent reconstruction as is often the case with Japanese castles; after briefly checking out the samurai themed exhibits on the various floors, I reached the observation deck at noon.

View of the Southern Alps from Kai-Ueno Castle

The Sakura of the Kabuki Cultural Park

The view of the cherry blossom filled park from above was breathtaking. The Southern Alps could be seen in the far distance on the west side; looking north, the Oku-Chichibu mountains were faintly visible through the midday haze; finally, the relatively lower Misaka mountains extended eastwards. After fully enjoying the view, I headed back down, crossed the park, and headed up a small road lined with cherry blossom trees. I didn’t spot any signposts and had to rely on my phone GPS for this section. At 12h30, I arrived at a thatched-roof rest shelter beyond which was the trail entrance.

Kofu Basin and Oku-Chichibu Mountains from Kai-Ueno Castle

The Misaka Mountains extending Westwards

It felt great to be walking on a hiking trail through the sunlit forest, still in winter mode despite the springtime temperatures, although hints of spring were starting to show here and there. After some gentle climbing, I reached a wide ridgeline with few trees, the views opening up on both sides. To the south, I could observe the next ridgeline, behind which hid Shibireko Lake; looking north, I could see the extensive Kofu Basin. Very soon, I arrived at the flat summit of Mt Asama (浅間山あさまやま asama-yama), a common mountain name in Japan, marked by a solitary peach tree.

Fallen Tree on the way to Mt Asama

Overhanging Tree Branch en route to sakura-toge

I became slightly concerned when thick, dark clouds hid the sun, making me think that rain might be a possibility despite the sunny forecast. I stepped up the pace, and after a short descent, came upon the forest road which I would use to get off the mountain at the end of the hike. For now, I continued up the trail on the other side, and very soon, on a slight rise marked by a stone monument, I reached a bunch of cherry blossom trees in full bloom.

Level Trail before Mt Asama

Descending Trail Past Mt Asama

I was delighted to see sakura in full bloom up in the mountains. These were not the mountain variety but actual Somei Yoshino cherry trees. A handful of people were quietly doing “hanami” (flower watching) under the white and pink blossoms. It felt quite special to be able to enjoy such spectacular trees with so few people. Apparently it’s also possible to see the top of Mt Fuji from this spot, although today clouds hid it from view. As it was nearly 2pm, I sat with my back against a tree trunk and enjoyed a “hanami” lunch under the blossoms, with a view of the Misaka mountains.

Cherry Blossom Trees up in the Mountains

Cherry Blossoms and the Misaka Mountains.

Clouds now covered most of the sky on the south side; since I’d pass through this spot later on, I decided to move on quickly in the hope that the sun would be back by then. A few minutes later, I came upon a handmade signpost for Sakura Pass (桜峠 sakura-touge) next to an actual “yamazakura” or mountain cherry blossom tree, in full bloom. It was my first time to see one so clearly, as they usually grow surrounded by other types of trees. I continued along the unsignposted trail, following the ridgeline southeast.

View of the Kofu Basin from the Top of the Monorail

Walking alongside the Rail Transport System

The trail was surprisingly easy to walk, mostly level along the wide ridgeline, although trees blocked the views on both sides. Eventually, it started to climb, following a sunken path, perhaps an ancient wild animal track. At 2h30, I reached the minor summit of Mt Yumitate (弓建嶺 ゆみたてみね yumitate-mine); according to a local legend, at this spot the Lord Asari Yoichi shot an old woman with an arrow after mistaking her for a white heron. Rather than a white heron, I spotted a “monorail”, or a rail transport system for moving goods, rising up from the other side of the mountain.

Walking back to Mt Yumitate along the Monorail

Heading back to Sakura-toge

This modern device in the midst of nature gave a touch of mystery to the surroundings. After climbing from the next valley, the monorail turned and followed the narrow forested ridgeline. I had seen such transport systems before but it was the first time to see one running parallel to a hiking trail. I set off again and soon I arrived at an even more amazing sight: a huge platform covered in scaffolding, the monorail top station. I followed the trail right up to its base, then up some metallic steps and around the side on a metal walkway, from where, above the trees, I had a view of the Kofu basin. After enjoying the view, I made my way back to Sakura Pass.

Sakura in the Sun

Misaka Mountains from Sakura-toge

The cherry blossoms were even more spectacular now that the sun had returned. I spent some time enjoying them from various angles, the pink white blossoms against the blue sky forming the perfect contrast. Looking north, I could better appreciate the detail of the Misaka mountains, although Mt Fuji was still missing in action. It was past 3pm so I slowly headed to the forest road where I turned right and started the descent into the valley. Half an hour later, I reached some peach orchards at the edge of the forest.

A great Spot for Hanami

Heading Down into the Valley

It was my first time to see peach blossoms on a hike, the pink blossoms covering the mountain side. Shortly after I arrived at Mitamu no Yu where after a refreshing hot spring bath, I called a taxi for the 10-minute ride back to Kai-Ueno station. After getting back to Kofu a little before sunset, I boarded the limited express at for the 90-minute ride back to Tokyo, enjoying along the way the surreal scenery of pink peach blossoms covering the Kofu basin.

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Dairokuten (315m), Mt Hachioji-Shiro (446m) & Fujimidai (554m), Hachioji City, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, March 14, 2026

I wanted to explore the valley I had passed through by bus after last week’s hike. I had already hiked east to west from Hachioji Castle Ruins to Mt Dodokoro via Fujimidai nearly 12 years ago. Looking at my map, I saw I could follow some locally maintained trails north to south, partly overlapping with my 2014 hike, connecting the Northern and Southern branches of the Asa river. Along the way I would pass several viewpoints of Tokyo on the east side. If time allowed, I could finish with a walk through the Takao Plum Blossom area to Takaosanguchi Station.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d take the Chuo line Green Car to Takao station, and from there, ride a bus to nearby Kawara-juku, a short way from the trail entrance at Shingenin Temple. At the end of the hike, after a hot bath at Gokurakuyu Onsen, I could ride the Keio line one stop to Takao station and board the Chuo line back to Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny but windy in the morning. I was looking forward to checking out new trails and views in a familiar area, as well as seeing the plum blossoms, in full bloom in this season.

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Approaching Dairokuten (left) Trail for Hachioji Castle Ruins (right)

Approaching Mt Hachioji-Shiro (left) Trail for Fujimidai (right)

The sun was already high in the sky as I rode the train through western Tokyo, arriving at Takao station shortly after 10am. It was about a 10-minute ride to Kawarajuku-Ohashi, a bus stop on a bridge over the Kitaasa River. Kawara-juku used to be a small post town on an old mountain road connecting Hachioji with Uenohara, although nowadays little remains of its historical past. I arrived at Shingenin temple (心源院) a little before 11am, and after checking out its impressive, bright red bell tower, headed towards the start of today’s hike.

Descending towards Takao Baigo (right) Path for Ura-Takao (right)

Approaching Tenjin Bairin (left) Walking the Takao Baigo Promenade (right)

I was surprised to see detailed, handwritten local signposts at the trail entrance, showing that the paths are well-maintained by local groups. I headed up the Women Slope Trail (女坂ルート) as it seemed more interesting than the Shrine Trail (神社ルート) which started from as shrine on the other side of the temple. After a short climb through thick forest, I found myself walking along a ridge with sparse vegetation. I soon reached a bench at the edge of the forest with a wide view to the north.

Benches mid-way to the first viewpoint

First Viewpoint along the Woman’s Slope

I was delighted to get a view so soon on the hike especially since it wasn’t on my maps. The valley was filled with colourful rooftops spreading to the Akigawa Hills in the far distance. The wind was blowing hard so I continued on my way, now heading southwards. Along the way, I admired the frequent signs, informing me of what to watch for in terms of vegetation (e.g. best time to see a certain type of flower) and what to watch out for in terms of trail hazards (e.g. trail becomes narrow). Shortly after passing the junction with the more direct, but less scenic Shrine Route, I turned left at the next junction, and a couple of minutes later, arrived at Dairokuten (大六天 だいろくてん), the first mountain and second viewpoint of the day.

View North from the Woman Slope Trail

The Colourful Rooftops fill the Valley to the Akigawa Hills

I immediately felt very relaxed in this place, with its handmade tables and seats, in addition to the charming signs. Northeast, I could distinguish the pointed shape of Mt Odake. The Kanto plain extended eastwards, the skyscrapers of central Tokyo barely visible through the haze. Apparently, the Oku-Nikko mountains and Mt Tsukuba can be seen on days with high visibility. I had this heavenly place all to myself; I settled on one of the benches for an early break but was soon chased by a persistent cold wind. I retraced my steps to the last junction and continued straight, now heading south.

Dairokuten Viewpoint

Handmade Benches and Tables

The up and down forested ridge was kept interesting by the frequent signage, revealing many local trails not shown on official maps, place names thoughtfully transcribed in English. Nearly an hour later, I turned right at Sakumon gate site (柵門跡), merging with the main trail for the Hachioji Castle ruins, also the route of my 2014 hike. From this point, official signposts took over, and I saw more people on the trail. After a short climb up ancient stone steps, I reached a level section free of trees on the left side, offering a view of the Kanto Plain.

View North of the pointed summit of Mt Odake

View of the Kanto Plain from near Hachioji Castle Ruins

I spent a few minutes enjoying this wide, unobstructed view, looking down at suburban neighbourhoods nestled between low, forested ridges. A little further on, I arrived at Hachioji-jinja Shrine (八王子神社), a bright red wooden building surrounded by tall cedars. After following a path a short way up to Honmaru site (本丸跡), the highest point of Mt Hachioji-shiro (八王子城山 はちおうじしろやま), marked by a small shrine enclosed by forest, I headed down to a group of sunlit benches and tables next to a tall stone memorial, with a view of Tokyo and the Tanzawa mountains. It was past 1pm, so I sat down for a lunch break. The wind had dropped and I spent nearly an hour enjoying the pleasant warmth of the early spring sun.

Sunlit Benches at Hachioji Castle Ruins

Mt Fuji from Fujimidai (photo March 2014)

I moved quickly along the next section, since I had walked it before. The trail climbed steadily through beautiful forest, protecting me from the sun but offering no views; the surrounding forest was also completely silent, birds and insects still on winter break. At the top of a steep slope, I reached Fujimidai (富士見台 ふじみだい) a little after 2h30. The name means “Mt Fuji View Platform”, however I was too late in the day and Mt Fuji, normally visible above the ridgeline to the southwest, was entirely hidden by clouds; at least I had had a perfect view on my previous visit. I continued my hike, heading downhill and southwards, leaving behind the trail for Mt Dodokoro, once again exploring a new path.

Fallen Trees past Fujimidai

Afternoon sun filtering through the trees

I headed Southwards, the afternoon sun filtering through the trees. I soon passed the minor summit of Mt Kumazasa (熊笹山 くまざさやま 533m), a peaceful, round peak surrounded by cedars. Around here the signposting reverted to handmade, weatherbeaten signs, but missing the charm of those at the start of the hike. I was following less frequented trails, with few views and few people, but offering delightful solitude inside nature. A little after 3pm, I reached a signposted junction. After making a quick round-trip to nearby Taikokuruwa-no-kashira (太鼓曲輪ノ頭(たいこくるわのかしら 410m), a minor summit with a long name, I headed down a switchback trail into the valley. Very soon, I could hear the sound of traffic coming from the busy Chuo expressway. At the bottom of some concrete steps, I reached a paved walking path where I turned right. As it curved around the mountain side, a view opened up on the left side.

Paved Path above the Chuo Expressway

View of the Chuo Expressway, Mt Takao and Plum Blossoms

I was pleasantly surprised by this unexpected view of the valley behind Mt Takao, known as “Uratakao” (裏高尾), less-visited than the city-facing side. Traversing the valley east to west was the Chuo line expressway; one lane soared above the rest, headed for the Hachioji Interchange, where it would merge with the north-south Ken-O expressway. Opposite was Mt Takao, Tokyo’s most famous mountain; the white building of “Beer Mount“, the Mt Takao Beer Garden, was visible halfway along the ridgeline. Looking down, I noticed a white cluster of plum trees, still bathed in the late afternoon light. At the bottom of another concrete staircase, I passed through a tunnel under the expressway, and then through a railway crossing for the Chuo line. After a short walk along the Old Koshu Kaido, I reached the Surizashi Town Open Space (摺指まちの広場).

Surizashi Machi Hiroba from the Kyu-Koshu Kaido

Walking through the Plum Blossoms

I felt lucky to have the plum blossoms to myself, although after 4pm most of the trees were in the shade. After making a quick loop through the open space, I continued along the Old Koshu Kaido but soon turned right into the Takao Umenosato Town Open Space (高尾梅の郷まちの広場) where more plum blossoms awaited. At the far end, I entered the Takao Baigo Promenade (高尾梅郷遊歩道) which I had scouted last summer. It was a pleasant stroll on a narrow path alongside the Minamiasa river, the last rays of sun colouring the scenery golden. Along the way, I passed by the Tenjin plum grove (天神梅林), hiding a small shinto shrine in its midst. Just before 5pm, I left the path for a pedestrian road with rows of plum trees on each side.

View of the Chuo Expressway from Surizashi Town Open Space

Last Section of the Takao Baigo Yuhodo

I was surprised by how many plum trees I had seen on the last section of the hike; I even had to skip a few groves due to the late hour of the day. I soon reached the modern Koshu Kaido where I turned right. A few minutes later I arrived at Takaosanguchi station, just before sunset, more than six hours after setting off. After a refreshing bath at the Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu (京王高尾山温泉極楽湯), I boarded the Keio line for the one stop ride to Takao station; there I boarded the Chuo line green car for the 45-minute comfortable ride back to Shinjuku station.

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Mt Shoto (960m) & Kayamaru (1019m), Sagamihara City & Hinohara Village, Kanagawa & Tokyo Prefectures, Sunday, March 8, 2026

I wanted to do another hike along the Chuo line; I had already explored the area extensively more than 10 years ago but since the introduction of the “green car” last year, I thought it would be a good chance to revisit some of the peaks there in more comfort. I decided to walk the Sasaone Ridge between Mikuni and Wada Passes, which I had observed from the summit of Mt Jinba the week before. Along the way, I’d pass by Mt Shoto, a Kanto 100 famous mountain, and a string of minor peaks. It was also part of the Kanto Fureai no Michi section named “Fujimi no Michi” meaning I could get several views of Mt Fuji along the way.

Hiking in the Jinba-Sagamiko Prefectural Natural Park

県立陣馬相模湖自然公園

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi

関東ふれあいの道

To get to the start of the hike, I’d take the Chuo line to Fujino station, and there, ride a bus to the entrance of Sanogawa Village, a couple of stops before the end of the line. For the return, I’d ride a different bus from the Tokyo side to Takao station, from where I could take the Ome line, also equipped with the “green car”, back to Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be clear all day but significantly colder than the previous week, winter not quite over yet. I was looking forward to a ridge walk connecting two valleys and including several chances to see Japan’s most iconic view.

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Start of the Hike (left) Trail above Sanogawa Village (right)

Trail for Mikuni Pass (left) Steps for Kayamaru (right)

It was another beautiful day as I rode the Chuo line westwards, mountains rising up on each side of the tracks. The train arrived on time, but the bus for Wada Pass left five minutes early. It did not seem to be an extra bus, all passengers could find seats; nor did the schedule change: after getting off at Kamasawa Iriguchi (鎌沢入口), the timetable showed I was several minutes early, never a bad thing. I set off a little before 10am, and after crossing a bridge over the Sawai river and passing a Hachiman Shrine, I headed up a steep road with a plum grove on the right side.

Log Steps before Kayamaru (left) Trail past Kayamaru (right)

Log Steps before Mt Rengyo (left) Trail after Mt Rengyo (right)

I was delighted to catch the plum blossoms in full bloom, as I was one month too early for the cherry blossoms for which this route is apparently famous for. I soon found myself walking through Sanogawa village, selected as one of Japan 100 beautiful rural villages, its most notable feature being the terraced tea fields I could see hugging the mountain side. After another steep road, I reached the Kamasawa Prefecture Rest Area (県立鎌沢休憩所), from where, after turning around, I had a view of the summit of Mt Jinba. Next to the last village house was the start of the hiking trail.

Ichi-no-O Ridge on Mt Jinba

Walking under the Sun

I followed a gently rising path, a bamboo grove to my left, as it curved around the mountain side. I soon had a view of the Ichi-no-O ridge, climbed just a week ago. The path gradually turned northwards and headed up a sunny ridge, the trees still bare of leaves. At 11am, I reached several benches the start of the Sakura Promenade (桜プロムナード). Looking left, through branches holding tightly closed buds, I had my first view of Mt Fuji of the day, the perfect shot for anyone visiting one month later. I set off again, and after passing under a silver metallic “torii” (Shinto Shrine gate), continued up the ridgeline for a short while to a junction inside a cedar forest, where I continued straight. Half an hour later, I reached the summit of Mt Mikuni (三国山 みくにさん 960m also known as Mikuni Pass 三国峠), mostly surrounded by trees.

Trail before the Sakura Promenade

Torii Gate on the Sakura Promenade

I was glad to have reached the first summit of the day but slightly disappointed that branches were in the way of my perfect Fuji shot; to the right, the snowy top of the Shirane-Sanzan in the South Alps was just visible. Since the picnic table was occupied, I decided to move on at once. I headed right, now following the Kanto Fureai no Michi along the Sasaone Ridge (笹尾根). I made my way up a short, rocky section, the change in terrain quite sudden, and a little past noon, arrived at the top of Mt Shoto (生藤山 しょうとうざん shoto-zan), for the second time. Also, for the second time today, branches interfered with my view of Mt Fuji, contradicting information from my map, guidebook and my own memory, but a good example of how conditions can change over time. I decided to skip this lunch break opportunity, and continue till I got a better view.

Mt Fuji from the Mt Shoto East Peak

Trail between Mt Shoto and Kayamaru

I finally had my perfect view of Mt Fuji, just a few minutes further along the narrow trail, at a spot marked as the Mt Shoto East Peak, but shown as Maruyama (丸山 989m) on some maps. It wasn’t a suitable lunch spot so after admiring the view, I carefully headed down a steep, rocky section. Past the junction with the detour path (巻道 “makimichi“), a safer path around the summit, the trail became easier to walk. I saw less people on this section, perhaps because most people headed back after reaching the top of Mt Shoto. I soon reached another detour path, the level trail straight ahead looking very inviting, but instead, I headed up a series of log steps to my left.

Log steps leading to Kayamaru

Mt Fuji View from Kayamaru

This was probably the best section of the entire hike, the log steps leading me up towards the blue sky, the green pine growing on both sides adding a dash of wilderness to the scenery. A little after 12:30pm, I arrived at Kayamaru (茅丸 かやまる), a little known peak with a perfect Mt Fuji view and the highest point of today’s hike. To the left of Mt Fuji, I had a sweeping view of the Tanzawa and Doshi mountains, the highest peaks tinged in white. I had the summit completely to myself, so I sat on a log to enjoy a peaceful lunch with a view. After nearly an hour, I slowly got going again, heading down a steep path on the east side.

Mt Fuji between Two Pines

The Summit of Kayamaru

The next section of the hike was probably the most fun to walk as it followed the narrow ridgeline through sunny winter forest, with occasional glimpses of Mt Fuji and the Chuo line valley to the right, and the Kanto Plain to the left. At 1:30pm, I reached the minor peak of Mt Rengyo (連行山 れんぎょうさん or 連行峰 れんぎょうほう 1016m) mostly within the trees. To the left a trail headed into the Akigawa valley, but I continued straight. Very soon, I arrived at a wide gap in the trees on the right side, giving me the best Fuji view of the day, perfect from the snowy crater summit free of clouds, to the overlapping ridgelines around the base. At Yama no Kami (山の神), I headed straight again, ignoring a trail to the right leading back to my starting point, public transport giving me the freedom to choose my arrival point.

A Sweeping View South from Kayamaru

Trail between Kayamaru and Mt Rengyo

The path suddenly entered a dense cedar forest and moved to the north side of the ridge, in the shade at this hour. Here and there, I had glimpses of the Okutama mountains, extending northwards. I eventually reached some benches at the top of Mt Daigo (醍醐丸 だいごまる 867m) where I took a short break. Another trail led north to the Tokura-sanzan, an area I’d love to explore again. The summit was completely in the trees and the shade so I quickly set off again, soon arriving at Daigo Pass. It was only 3pm but the surrounding forest was already very dark, with little light reaching the forest floor. I stepped up the pace, and after a certain amount of descending, emerged onto a forest road where I turned right.

Mt Fuji View from the Fujimi no Michi Trail

Last View of Mt Fuji of the Day

I was relieved to finally to leave the dark forest behind at Wada Pass (和田峠 687m). Since it was already past 3:30pm, I opted for the shorter road descent, leaving the Jinba New Trail (陣馬新道) for another day. The hard road surface was a little tough on the body after a full day walking mountain trails, but at the end I was rewarded with the sight of a family of pheasants (“kiji” キジ) crossing a road. I arrived at the Jinba Kogen Shita (陣馬高原下) stop with ten minutes to spare before the 4:30pm departure time, the bus for Takao station already there and allowing passengers to board. At Takao station, I boarded the Chuo line Green Car for the comfortable ride back to Tokyo.

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Mt Jinba (854m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Sunday, March 1, 2026

I was looking for a short and easy hike to get back in shape after my winter break. I had already been up Mt Jinba three times, the last time being two years ago, but I still hadn’t explored every trail this popular mountain had to offer. This time, I decided to start close to the lowest trail entrance and head up the long and gentle Ichi-no-O ridge route, the main trail up the mountain. After admiring the panoramic view from the summit, including Mt Fuji, I’d descend via the shorter and steeper Tochitani ridge route, near the end of which I’d be able to get a view of the Tanzawa and Doshi Mountains.

Hiking in the Takao-Jinba Natural Park 都立高尾陣場自然公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line to Fujino station. There, I’d board a bus for the short ride to the next stop from the Jinba mountain trail entrance, from where I’d follow an alternate trail to the ridgeline. This would allow me to skip a steep road climb from the main entrance. After completing the descent, I could drop by Jinya Onsen, my first visit to this hot spring. Afterwards, I’d walk 20 minutes along a road to get to a bus stop. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures warm for the season and I was looking forward to the first Spring hike of the year.

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Start of the Hike (left) Alternate Path for the Ridge (right)

Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (left) Sunny and Level Section (right)

I couldn’t spot a cloud in the sky as I rode the Chuo line westwards through the Tokyo suburbs, Mt Fuji clearly visible to the south. The train leaving Shinjuku station had been delayed but fortunately the connecting train at Takao station kindly waited for us, and thus I was able to board the bus from Fujino station as planned. After a ten-minute ride on a half-empty bus, I got off at Kami-sawai stop, a peaceful spot on the Sawai river, here and there plum blossoms in full bloom. I quickly located a sign for the trail entrance on the right side, and a little after 10am, was following a charming path next to a bamboo grove.

Halfway up (left) Log Steps below the Top (right)

Heading down (left) on the Tochitani Ridge Trail (right)

I was surprised to see no one on the trail on this beautiful spring day, probably due to the high levels of cedar pollen in the air. After half an hour of gentle climbing, I turned left onto the wider Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (一ノ尾尾根コース). From this point, I occasionally passed hikers going up and down, but most of the time I had the sunny trail to myself, the mixed forest still leafless in this season. The path alternated between level and climbing sections; turning around in the middle of a slope, I could make out Mt Fuji through the bare trees. An hour and a half after setting off, the trail merged with the the Wada Ridge Route #2 which I had used a couple of years ago.

Trail between Kamisawai and the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

Sunny Section Halfway up the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

I picked up the pace since I was familiar with this section, and soon reached the log steps for the final climb to the summit. Shortly before noon, I was standing on the top of Mt Jinba (陣馬山 じんばさん jinba-san) for the fourth time. I was now surrounded by people, including a camera crew interviewing hikers about their lunch choices; I still managed to find a seat at one of the tables for my own, media-free lunch. Some people were in city clothes, and had probably walked up the steps from the nearby Wada Pass parking lot. The horse statue, for which Mt Jinba is famous for, was looking the worse for wear; I hoped it’d get a facelift in the near future.

View West from Mt Jinba towards Mt Shoto

Hazy Fuji from the Top of Mt Jinba

Mt Fuji was half-hidden by the midday haze due to temperatures topping 20°C in the valley below, but I was still able to admire its perfect snowcap in this season. Westwards, I could see the ridgeline extending towards Mt Shoto, looking very inviting on this fine day; to the north, I could see the Okutama mountains, including Mt Odake and Mt Gozen; on the east side, the Kanto Plain extended into the distance, the Tokyo skyscrapers barely visible. At 12:30, I set off for Meiou Pass, but soon turned right onto a smaller path, leaving the crowds behind. I was now following the Tochitani Ridge Route (栃谷尾根コース) down the mountain.

Red-roof Soba Shop near the Top of Mt Jinba

Trail for Meiou Pass

The trail descended steeply through cedars for a while before reaching a level section; beyond, the narrow trail descended more gently but remained inside the tall cedars, keeping me out of the afternoon sun but hiding most views. I passed few people on the way, allowing me to enjoy the solitude of the mountain. At a small Inari shrine, I made a sharp left turn. I soon emerged from the forest above some tea fields and had a wide view of the Tanzawa mountains to the south. I was against the sun, but could distinguish Mt Oyama, Mt Tanzawa, Mt Hiru, Mt Hinokiboramaru and Mt Omuro; in the foreground, I could also see the Doshi mountains, the Hizure Alps and Mt Sekiro. On the left side of the trail was a Kawazu-zakura (河津桜), an early flowering cherry blossom tree, in full bloom, its pink petals swaying in the breeze.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains on the Tochitani Trail

Cherry Blossoms and Tea Fields

I took my time to enjoy the sweeping view before moving on, since it was only 2pm. Below the tea fields, the trail ended at a road which I followed through the Sawai district, the frequent signposts guiding me in the right direction. At a bend in the road, a sign directed me to a path heading directly down the mountainside, a shortcut to the bottom of the valley. Upon reaching another road, I turned right, and after a short while, arrived at Jinya Onsen (陣谷温泉), a friendly hot spring inn allowing day trippers. I enjoyed a leisurely soak in the indoor hinoki bathtub, large windows letting in generous amounts of sunshine.

Mt Omura (left) & the Doshi mountains (center back)

Mt Hiru (left), Mt Hinokiboramaru (center) & Mt Omuro (right)

I was glad I finally had a chance to visit this hidden hot spring close to Tokyo. In the future I hope to hike the last remaining route on Mt Jinba, the Narako Ridge route, and this would allow me to visit Jinya Onsen again. Feeling refreshed, I set off shortly after 3pm on a gently descending road, alongside the Tochitani River. At the Sawai Post office, I turned left onto a main road, and soon arrived at the Jinba Tozanguchi (陣馬登山口) bus stop where it was a short wait for the bus back to Fujino station. After checking out the Fujino Tourist Information Center and collecting some local maps for future hikes, I boarded the Chuo line for the one-hour trip back to Shinjuku station.

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Mt Monomi (135m), Higashi-matsuyama & Hatoyama Cities, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, February 14, 2026

I was looking for some easy hiking near Tokyo, after a series of challenging hikes. I had already walked from Musashi-Ranzan to Takasaka station 10 years ago, almost to the day; back then, I followed the Hiki Hills Traverse Route (比企丘陵縦断コース). Searching online, I noticed that several trails went through the hilly, forested area on the Takasaka side, making it possible to do a loop hike that would also include a viewpoint of the Kanto mountains. Before the hike, I could also drop by the Peace Museum of Saitama and check out the 360° view from its observatory.

Hiking in the Hiki Hills 比企丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu Tojo express train from Ikebukuro to Takasaka station, and from there, ride a bus for a short while to a stop near the museum; since it wasn’t a long hike I could leave in the mid-morning. For the return, I’d catch the same bus back, a couple of stops up the line. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon; temperatures were expected to be warm for the season. I was looking forward to a short, relaxing hike at the edge of the Kanto Plain.

Steps for Mt Monomi (left) Walking in Ishizaka Forest (right)

Path for Shoboji Temple (left) Steps for Iwadono Kannon Sando (right)

The sun was still shining as I rode the late morning express train through the Saitama suburbs. I was lucky to catch one of the few trains with forward facing seats. At Takasaka station, I made the quick transfer to the city bus, and a little after noon, I got off at a stop a few meters from “Heiwashiryokan Iriguchi” (平和資料館), “The Peace Museum Entrance”. It was a 5-minute walk up a gently sloping road to the Peace Museum of Saitama, located inside Monomiyama Park (物見山公園). After checking out the small museum with its Showa era dioramas, I rode the elevator up the 147.5m tall silver observatory tower, higher than today’s planned hike.

View of Oku-Musashi from the Peace Museum Observatory

View of the Kanto Plain from Mt Monomi

I was excited to get a wide, unobstructed view of the Kanto mountains, no other tall buildings blocking the view. The midday haze had already set in and I had to rely on the detailed panels to help me identify the various peaks; only the pyramid-shaped Mt Buko was easily recognisable. Apparently Mt Fuji and the mountains of Nikko can also be seen when the conditions are right. After exiting the museum, I made my way through the park, along a paved path and up log steps to a flat open space, the top of Mt Monomi (物見山 ものみやま monomiyama), for the second time. Although it’s the highest mountain in the Hiki Hills, a summit marker was nowhere to be found.

Bell Tower at Shoboji

View of Iwadono Kannon Sando from Shoboji

After checking out the view of the Kanto Plain to the east, I headed down the north side and crossed a road, leaving the park behind. I had reached a large parking lot at the edge of the forest. However, before immersing myself in nature, I made my way to the nearby Shoboji Temple (正法寺), also known as Iwadono Kannon (巌殿観音). It was on my return route but I wanted to see it in the sun; thin high-altitude clouds had appeared, announcing an imminent change in weather. At the base of a steep log staircase, I came upon a giant Ginko, completely bare of leaves in this season but certainly an impressive sight in the Autumn.

Entering Ishizaka Forest

Walking the East Ridge Route

My attention was soon caught by a bell tower with a thatch roof, perched at the top of a steep incline with a valley view in the background. After ringing the bell, I admired the view of the “sando“, a main roading leading to the entrance of a temple, running all the way to the base of the hills. I retraced my steps to the parking and followed a sunlit trail through tall pines into Ishizaka Forest (石坂の森). I turned left at a junction onto the East Ridge Route (東の尾根道), heading south along a delightful descending trail; after crossing a stream over a log bridge, I arrived at another parking area. Here, I made a sharp right onto a rougher, climbing path, the Center Ridge route (中央の尾根道), heading back in the opposite direction.

View of the Kanto Plain from Miharashi no Oka

Path leading away from Miharashi no Oka

The path soon leveled and I found myself walking along a ridgeline through mixed forest, mainly consisting of “Konara” and “Kunugi” oaks. After passing the highest point of today’s hike (139m), I reached Miharashi no Oka (見晴らしの丘), an open space with a view on two sides. On the west side, I could see the outline of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains. High-altitude clouds now covered the entire sky, making it hard to make out the fine details, but I could still distinguish the rounded shape of Mt Raiden in the foreground. To the east, I had another view of the featureless Kanto Plain. Since it was 2pm, I sat at a picnic table for a late lunch.

Okuchihibu Mountains from Miharashi no Oka (Photo from Feb 2016)

Mt Yumidate (front left), Mt Buko (right back) & Mt Raiden (right front)

I reflected on how 10 years ago, I had had a much better view on a clearer day. Once finished, I descended a short switchback trail, crossed a road, and headed down a path to Miharashi dai (見晴し台), a slightly less impressive viewpoint on the north side. I then made my way back to the road which I followed for a short while before turning left onto a wide track leading into Shimin no Mori (市民の森). The path was level at first but then descended steeply into a forested valley.

Plum Blossom Tree in Full Bloom

A Hint of Spring in the Hiki Hills

I followed a narrow, twisting past through red pines ending at Iriyama Pond (入山沼). The next section took me along a paved road through a hidden cultivated valley, similar to the Kishi Rice Fields, mostly dormant in the season, but livened up here and there by plum trees in full bloom, a harbinger of Spring. At 3pm, I darted up a slightly overgrown trail on the right side. After a few minutes, I popped out of the thick forest, right next to the bell tower at Shoboji where I had been a couple of hours earlier. I walked over to the top of a long staircase from where I had a bird’s-eye view of the Iwadono Kannon Sando road (巌殿観音参道) extending into the distance.

Shoboji Temple Bell with Iwadono Kannon Sando in the Background

Plum Tree near Shoboji Temple Gate

At the wooden gate at the base of the steps, I passed between two red demons guarding the temple entrance, and then made my way down the “sando“, also dormant in this season, although once again, the occasional plum blossom tree added a little cheer to the surroundings. At one point I spotted something rather unusual, a small playground situated inside the grounds of a shrine. At the end of the “sando“, I turned right onto a larger road, and after a 10-minute walk, arrived at a bus stop. After a short wait, I boarded the bus back to Takasaka station. There, I caught the express train for the one hour ride back to Ikebukuro.

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Mt Futatsu (376m), Mt Ganko (325m) & Mineoka Uma-no-se (306m), Kamogawa City, Chiba Prefecture, Sunday, February 1, 2026

I felt it was time for another hike in Minamiboso since it had been two years since my last visit. Looking at my mountains of Chiba guidebook, I decided to combine 3 peaks in the Mineoka mountains. This mountainous range south of the Kamo river includes Mt Atago (408m), the highest point of the Boso peninsula; however, it can only be visited by applying in advance since it’s also the location of a Japan self-defence force base (currently not accepting any applications). Instead, I’d head up the 4th highest peak of the Boso Peninsula, a short distance away, and then go up another, lower peak nearby. I’d then make my way along country lanes to one last mountain. All 3 peaks supposedly had wide views from their summits.

Hiking on the Boso Peninsula 房総半島

Hiking in the Mineoka Mountains 嶺岡山地

To get to the start of the hike, after riding the Sasanami limited express from Tokyo, I’d had hoped to take the bus from Hota station, but it was no longer in service. Instead I decided to use the “on-demand” bus from Iwai Station, less convenient since it required me to call in advance. According to my map, a trail started near the last stop; looking at online reports, it seemed to be a forestry service path rather than a proper trail, so I opted to use a nearby road that also led to the trail entrance. For the return, I’d catch a bus for Awa-kamogawa station, and then ride the Wakashio limited express back to Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be sunny with mild temperatures for the season and I was looking forward to exploring a new corner of the Boso peninsula.

The road between Yamadanaka and Mt Futatsu is closed to traffic due to a landslide. Caution is required when crossing the collapsed section on foot. It’s recommended to access these 3 peaks from the Kamogawa side via the “Satoyama Walking Hosono Motona Route”.

Path for Umanose (left) Top of Umanose (right)

Passing under (left) and around trees (right)

It was another beautiful winter morning as I rode the Sasanami limited express, first through the Chiba countryside and then along Tokyo Bay. During the ride, I left a message on the Minamiboso city answering machine saying I’d like to ride the morning bus to the last stop. Shortly before 10am, I boarded the microbus waiting outside Iwai station after confirming my reservation with the driver. Nearly all passengers got off at the trail entrance for Mt Iyo, the end of the regular bus route; just one passenger got off with me at Yamadanaka (山田中), half an hour later, last visited when I climbed Mt Goten.

Overgrown Road leading to Futatsuyama

Blue Skies on the Higher Section of the Road

The surroundings were completely silent compared to my previous visit in the Spring. I continued along the road, and at a sharp bend, turned left onto a smaller road leading up into the hills. Past some early plum blossoms, I came upon a sign indicating that the road was closed to traffic due to a landslide. After confirming with a local that it was “sort of” passable on foot, I set off, relieved that I could stick to my plan, and that no cars would disturb the peace and quiet. One drawback of a closed road is that the vegetation is left to run wild, forcing me to pass over and under several fallen bamboo stalks; for some reason they were dying out, an army of white stalks creating a ghostly atmosphere. A little after 11am, I arrived at the collapsed part of the road.

Mineoka Mountains & Tokyo Bay from Mt Futatsu

View of the Boso Mountains from Mt Ganko

The damage was more extensive than I had expected; I had to walk on the mountain slope to get around, treading carefully over the soft, overturned dirt. A little further on, several fallen cedars blocked the road, and it took some more minutes to get past. I had fallen behind schedule so I stepped up the pace and soon reached a junction where I turned right. I was now walking on a level road, 360m high and probably the highest road in Boso, although thick vegetation hid the views. A little past noon, a charming handmade sign marked the entrance to a trail on the left, and it took only several minutes of easy climbing to reach the top of Mt Futatsu (二ツ山 ふたつやま futatsu-yama) with a wide view to the west.

Walking along the Base of the Mineoka Mountains

Heading up Umanose

I was thrilled to have found another summit with a view on the Boso peninsula. From left to right, I could see Mt Tomi, Mt Iyo, Mt Nokogiri, Mt Saga, Mt Tsumori, Mother Farm and Mt Kamo. Beyond, I could see the blue waters of Tokyo Bay. I had been hoping to see Mt Fuji, I had seen it from Iwai station, but by now Japan’s most famous mountain had withdrawn behind the clouds. The summit was in shade and a cold wind was blowing so I soon moved on, following a steep trail down the north side. I soon reached a junction for the lower north peak (“Futatsu” means two) but decided to skip it since it was in the trees. At 1230, I emerged onto a road where I turned right, but soon turned left onto a trail for today’s second peak.

Sunlit Filtering through the Cedars

View North of the Boso Mountains from Umanose

I was surprised by the steepness of the trail, including a short rocky section fitted with a rope for safety, reminiscent of higher elevation hikes. I soon arrived at the top of Mt Ganko (頑固山 がんこやま ganko-yama meaning “stubborn”; also written 岩光山 meaning “shining rock”). I put down my pack and carefully walked a few minutes along a rocky spur ending at a viewpoint, fairly similar to the previous one but from a lower vantage point. Turning around, I could see the rounded, tree-covered top of Mt Futatsu. Mt Fuji was still hidden from view but since I was now in the sun, I settled down for a lunch break. At 1pm, I made my way back to the road where I turned left. I was now following signposts for the “Satoyama Walking Hosono Motona Route” (里山ウォークキング細野・元名コース), taking me through fields and past thatch roof farmhouses.

Ridge Trail between Umanose and Atago Shrine

View of Kamogawa from the Mineoka Mountains

It was wonderful to be walking through the Satoyama scenery, a term that refers to the coexistence of nature and farmland. To the right, I could see the undulating ridgeline of today’s third and last mountain. I soon reached a junction where I turned right, but continued straight at a bend, passing left of a white shed and onto a hard to notice footpath, my phone GPS filling in for a missing sign. The path took me past a “mikan” orchard and into a forest of tall, vine-wrapped cedars, rays of sunlight lighting up the ferns on the forest floor. The forest was quite wild, and once again I was walking over, under and around fallen trees. After making my way up a steep, but thankfully short, switchback trail, I arrived at the base of some stone steps, at the top of which was a sign for Mineoka Uma-no-se (嶺岡馬の背 みねおかうまのせ meaning the horse’s back) past a rocky outcrop was a view of a wide valley ringed by low mountains.

View of Kamogawa from above Atago Shrine

Walking through Countryside at the End of the Hike

It seemed appropriate to climb a mountain with “horse” in its name in the year of the horse. Directly below, I could see the famous terraced rice fields of Oyama Senmaida (大山千枚田). After a short break, I followed the ridge trail eastwards through beautiful mixed forest. At 2h30, I reached another viewpoint on the north side from where I could see Kamogawa City and even the Pacific ocean. The path then descended steeply and in no time I arrived at Atago shrine (愛宕神社). I walked for another thirty minutes to the base of the valley, past empty rice fields resting till the spring planting. After arriving at a main road, I dropped by the nearby Kameda Brewery Store for some local sake tasting, then hopped on the bus for Awa-Kamogawa Station, my first time to take a train from there, and then boarded the Wakashio limited express for the 2 hour ride back to Tokyo.

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Miura Reef Route, Miura City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 24th, 2026

I’d visited Jogashima island at the southern end of the Miura peninsula in 2013, and hiked Mt Hodai and Mt Fuji-Miura, its southernmost peaks, in 2015. I had known for a while that the Kanagawa Kanto Fureai no Michi followed its southern coastline from east to west, and after my recent walk on the Boso Peninsula coast, I was in the mood for another seashore hike. Along the way, I’d pass by a famous lighthouse, a couple of bays and several fishing ports; finally, I could expect some good views of the Boso peninsula. This was another popular summer spot which I hoped would be free of people in the middle of winter.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama, and there, change to the limited express on the Keikyu Kurihama line. I’d get off at Miura-Kaigan station, one stop before the end of the line, and then ride a bus to the start of the Fureai no Michi. For the return, I’d catch a bus for Misakiguchi Station, and then ride the limited express again back to Yokohama. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, although quite cold and windy. I hoped the conditions would be tolerable and was looking forward to an interesting outing along the Miura Peninsula coastline.

This hike can only be done at low tide since some sections are under water at high tide. Make sure to check the tide times beforehand.

Start of the Reef Route (left) Tsurugisaki Lighthouse (right)

Reef Path (left) Metal Bridge (right)

It was another blue sky day as I rode the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama. Although there is no extra fee for the Keikyu limited express trains, not all have forward-facing seats, and I ended up having to stand for most of the trip. Fortunately, the spectacular views of Tokyo Bay made time go by faster. At Miura-Kaigan Station, I boarded a bus for the last leg of the trip and was glad to get a seat for a short while. Shortly before noon I got off at a stop on a windswept plateau surrounded by green fields with a view of the Boso peninsula across Tokyo Bay.

View of the Boso Peninsula from Oura Beach

Fureai no Michi Marker on the Reef

It was my first time to see the peaks of the Boso Peninsula so clearly. From left to right I could see Mt Kano, Mt Nokogiri and Mt Tomi, all directly on the sea; further inland, I could make out the summits of Mt Atago, Mt Iyo, Mt Goten and Mt Dainichi. A cold wind started blowing so I quickly headed downhill towards the coast, following the wooden signs of the Fureai no Michi. At a bend in the road I noticed some “suisen” (daffodil) and yellow “katabami” (woodsorrel) in full bloom. Near the base of a slope, I make a short detour to Oura Beach (大浦海水浴場) where I got another view of the Boso Peninsula. I then retraced my steps and soon arrived at Maguchi Port (間口漁港), the first fishing port of the day.

Mt Nokogiri (left) and double-peaked Mt Tomi (right)

Lunch spot between Misaki Cap and Ena Bay

I was surprised how quiet and peaceful the port was on this cold winter day, most boats moored to the quay or even out of water. I saw no one as I made my way round the circular quay, no waves disturbing the dark blue water. At 1pm, I reached the end of the concrete platform and passed through a gap in a wall with tetrapods, wave breaker blocks, on the other side. I suddenly found myself walking on a rocky shore directly on the coast. The transition from walking on flat concrete to balancing on smooth rocktops was quite abrupt and I proceeded slowly to give myself time to adjust to the change.

Sea Waves Crashing into the Reef

Reflected Sunlight on Calmer Waters

The sea, so calm moments before, now turned noisy as waves crashed onto the reef, encouraged by the strong winter wind. I wondered how quickly I’d be able to move among the rocks but I soon spotted a well-defined sandy path near the cliff base; it led to a small beach in the shade of a bluff on the south side. Here stood a wooden signpost for the Fureai no Michi in excellent condition, reassuring me that I’d easily be able to follow the Reef Route (岩礁のみち “gansho no michi“). After observing wavelets gently wash up through rocky inlets, I headed up a road on the right side, temporarily leaving the coastline behind.

Looking back towards the Boso Peninsula

Looking ahead towards Jogashima Island on the left side

I soon arrived at a white tower at the top of the bluff, one of today’s highlights, the Tsurugisaki Cape Lighthouse (剱埼灯台), built more than 150 years ago and featured in a number of dramas. From this higher vantage point I could now see the entire length of the Boso peninsula, all the way to the hilly Minami-boso area. Huge tankers passed slowly through the choppy waters of Tokyo Bay and into the Pacific ocean. Gusts of wind cut my gazing short and I quickly made my way back to the reef. The path headed back onto the rocks and along a narrow ledge protruding from the cliff face, allowing to get past a rocky inlet still free of water. As I rounded Tsurugisaki Cape, a hidden bay opened up in front of me.

Second Break Spot between Ena and Bishamon Bays

Green Algae near Kochizaki Cape

I realised how deceptive distances could be, the far side of the bay now seeming a long way away. I cautiously picked my way through the reef, steering clear of the most slippery rocks. The bay was enclosed by pale yellow cliffs providing few escape routes. It was past low tide, and although hide tide was several hours away, the crashing of windblown waves against the surrounding reef made me nervous. I was reassured by the continued presence of the Fureai no Michi signposts, but they now included warnings to take a detour route in case of high waters, as well a warning of falling rocks.

Green-blue Waters Free of Waves

Tricky Passage on the left side near the End of the Hike

For once, I was relieved to see people along the route, although relatively few in this season. At 2pm, I settled on a whitened log for a lunch break with a view of the cliffs. A sandy section sped me up, and I soon rounded the southern side of the small bay, the outline of Jogashima Island visible in the far distance. Shortly after, I climbed onto the concrete dock of Matsuwa fishing port (松輪漁港) on Ena Bay (江奈湾). From this point, I followed the road as it curved around the bay and then headed up inland. At the highest point, with a view of farmland on the north side, I turned left, heading back to the shore where I resumed walking along the narrow reef between sea and cliffs. I took a second break at another washed up log just before Kochizaki Cape (東風崎), this time facing the wide open sea. The waters were calmer here, the rocks covered in green algae.

Narrow section of the Reef Route

Tidal Waters from the High Tide

This section required some pathfinding in addition to surefootedness to navigate around the deep, twisting water inlets, some already filling up with seawater. Several metal bridges, as well as a series of raised stepping stones, helped me leapfrog over the trickier bits but I could imagine getting trapped by the rising water. A little after 2h30, I reached Bishamon Bay and Fishing port (毘沙門湾・毘沙門漁港), a short section of more relaxed walking before I returned to the reef. The sun was now low on the horizon and I alternated between shaded and sunlight sections. I turned around occasionally to admire the cliffs, golden yellow in the late afternoon sun. Before each bend, I could hear breaking waves and see white foam, further passage seemingly impossible, but gradually a safe passage comes into view, the fierce waves firmly held in check by the reef.

The Route Passes along the Base of the Cliff

Gold-Coloured Cliffs in the Late Afternoon Light

Here and there, short concrete walkways appeared, making it easier to cross wide sections of reef. Around 4pm, I passed Nusuttogari (盗人狩 meaning “hunted thief”) where according to legend a fleeing thief was trapped by the steep cliffs and raging waters. I could easily relate to feeling trapped and quickly escaped from the spot. After passing a dark cave, I slipped through a passage to the left of a rocky cape and entered Miyagawa Port (宮川港), the end of the Miura Reef Route, around 4h30. I headed up a sloping road, leaving the reef behind, and after a 20-minute walk though Miyagawa town, reached a bus stop from where it was a short ride to Misakiguchi station. This time I was lucky to get the more comfortable forward-facing seats on the return trip to Yokohama.

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Mt Yakunimi (319m), Hadano City & Oi Town, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 17, 2026

I’d hiked most of the Soga Hills in January 2018 from Kamioi to Kozu station. Recently I found out about the Fujimizuka Hiking Trail on the Kanagawa Prefecture website. This hike, mainly along country lanes, connects Kamioi with Matsuda station and completes the traverse of the hills. Rather than redo the first part, identical to my 2018 hike, I decided to start from Shibusawa station instead. Looking at my map, I saw I could follow hiking trails and back roads past a mountain with a view of Mt Fuji; a short walk along a prefectural road would then connect me with the main trail. Another view of Fuji awaited me at Fujimizuka near the end of the hike.

Hiking in the Soga Hills 曽我丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu “Fujisan Express” from Shinjuku to Hadano station, and then transfer to the local Odakyu line for the one stop ride to Shibusawa. There, I would catch a local bus and get off at the base of the Shibusawa Hills, a short distance from the trail entrance. The afternoon would be enough for this short hike allowing me to take the mid-morning train. For the return, I’d catch the “Fujisan express” again, but this time from Matsuda station. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, important for getting a good view of Fuji, the temperatures unseasonably warm. I was looking forward to a relaxing hike through the woods and countryside of Kanagawa.

Ascending (left) and Level Trail (right) for Mt Yakunimi

Stairs (left) and Footpath (right) connecting with Mt Takao

It was another blue-sky day, so common in winter in the Tokyo area, as I rode the limited express to Hadano station. Both transfers, first to the local train line and then to the bus line, went quickly and smoothly; shortly after noon, I got off at a stop in the middle of a long slope and headed up a steep road running parallel to the main road, taking me into the Shibusawa Hills (渋沢丘陵). At a bend in the road, I reached a viewpoint of the Tanzawa mountains to the north.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains at the start of the Hike

“Field View point” on the Trail for Mt Zukko

I was surprised by the lack of snow in this season, probably due to the ongoing dry weather. From left to right, I could see Mt Nabewari, Mt To and Mt Oyama, ridges and valleys easily discernable in the clear winter air. I continued up the steep road, now heading south. Since the air was so clear today, I decided to make a detour to a nearby viewpoint along the trail for Mt Zukko. After a short walk on a curving level road between woods and fields, I arrived at “Hatake no Tenbodai” (畑の展望台 meaning “Field Viewpoint”) with a couple of benches and a view of the Western part of the Tanazawa mountain range.

Trail for Mt Yakunimi

Lots of Fallen Trees on the way to Mt Yakunimi

I was pleased to get a view of the remoter peaks of Western Tanzawa, less well-known and harder to access than those of the Eastern half; I could also see the long ridge leading to Mt Mikuni. After a short break, I headed back to the trail for today’s mountain, admiring the first plum blossoms of the season along the way. At 1pm, I turned right, onto a path signposted for the summit; according to the signpost, the road I’d been following up to now also led there, but I preferred to walk on dirt than on asphalt.

Mt Fuji View from the Top of Mt Yakunimi

Mt Fuji and its Winter Snow Cover

I had to walk over, around and even under several fallen tree trunks, adding charm to the otherwise well-maintained path. Beyond a bamboo forest and a series of bamboo steps, I reached the top of Mt Yakunimi (八国見山 やくにみやま yakunimi-yama, meaning “8-country view”). Almost completely in the trees, a gap perfectly placed on the west side allowed for a majestic view of snow-covered Fuji, a secret viewing spot of Japan’s iconic volcano. I sat on one of the bamboo benches for lunch with a view. Shortly after 1h30, I resumed my hike, heading down the west side. Very soon I rejoined the road I’d been on earlier; a little further on, it ended at the top of a newly-built concrete staircase with a wide view to the south.

View South above the Cemetery

View West from near the Cemetery

I was delighted with this unexpected view, the trees having been cleared to make way for a cemetery, a wide grassy expanse near the base of the steps, still mostly free of graves. On the west side, I could see Mt Fuji and the outline of the Hakone mountains; to the south, forested hills stretched all the way to the Shonan coast and Sagami Bay. At the bottom of the steps, I walked a short way along a brand new road before turning left up a shorter concrete staircase; this connected with a footpath that soon joined a country lane heading south.

View of Mt Yakunimi with the Tanzawa Mountains behind

Mt Yakunimi (front left), Mt To (center) & Mt Odake (right)

This part of the hike felt quite adventurous: even though I was walking through fields and woods, the lane I was following was unknown to Google Maps and I had to rely entirely on my hiking app to find my way. Turning around I had a good view of Mt Yakunimi with the Tanzawa mountain range rising in the background. As I rounded a bend with a bamboo grove on my left, I came upon Neo Bandit Base, a campsite in the middle of nowhere with no apparent access, almost as if it were a real bandit hideout. At a fork in the road, I followed the right branch to the top of the campsite, taking me to a viewpoint of the forested hills as they extended southwards.

Country Lane Past Mt Takao

Forested Hills extending South to the Coast

I imagined it’d be a nice place to spend the night, enjoying a view from one’s tent, perched high up on the hillside. I followed the road a little further as it curved around the back of the mountain and soon reached the top of Mt Takao (高尾山 307), a minor mountain lacking a summit marker. It was surrounded by forest so I quickly retraced my steps to the main road. I soon found myself walking through farmland again, with a view of the Soga Hills to the south; along the way, I spotted bunches of white and yellow “suisen“, as well as orange “mikan“, adding colour to the winter landscape. After some descending, I reached a busy road, snaking its way along the base of a valley. After about 20 minutes walking on the sidewalk, I reached a signpost for the Fujimzuka Hiking Trail (富士見塚ハイキングコース) on the right side.

View of the Soga Hills past Mt Takao

Walking through Farmland

I was glad to be walking on a peaceful country lane again, taking me through the Yanagi Village Farm (やまぎ村ファーム). Past a white recycling center, out of place at the edge of the fields, I spotted a signpost for a trail leading into the forest on the left. The leaf-covered path climbed and then dipped into a steep, narrow valley. After crossing a stream over a metal bridge, I turned left, following the water upstream. Past a bamboo grove, I suddenly emerged onto a road. As the 4 o’clock chime sounded, buildings and fields lit golden in the setting sun, I made my way through the shinokubo neighbourhood and soon arrived at Jifuku-ji Temple (地福寺) at the bend of a bypass; beyond, the road climbed a long slope.

Walking through Forest near the End of the Hike

Sunset and Mt Fuji above Matsuda City

I hastened to reach the highest point, the gloom increasing fast shortly before sunset. I passed the entrance of Mishima Shrine (三嶋神社), walking under the overhanging branches of Shinokubo’s chinquapin (篠窪の椎 shinokubo no shii). This species of beech was more than 500 years old and one the 100 famous trees of Kanagawa; its lengthy branches were upheld by a metal frame, creating a natural tunnel over the road, but unfortunately too dark for a good picture.

A Natural Tree Tunnel (photo by Anthony Griffin)

Mt Fuji and its Snowcap (photo by Anthony Griffin)

As the sun was setting behind the Hakone mountains, I reached Fujimi-zuka (富士見塚), marked by a stone monument. From the pass, I had one final view of Mt Fuji of the day, now a grey outline with a fiery, orange background. It was another 30-minute walk down a quiet road to the outskirts of Matsuda city; after passing under the Tomei expressway, I caught a bus for Shin-Matsuda station arriving there around 5pm. After a one hour wait, I boarded the Fuji express for the 70-minute comfortable ride back to Shinjuku.

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