Okutama – Hiking Around Tokyo

Mt Hinode (902m), Ome City & Hinode Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, May 2, 2026 [Lani Head Trail]

I found out about this trail while researching the Mt Katsubo Hike, since the two are frequently done together. It was developed by the “RUN & BEER” outdoor community in 2020 and promoted by the TV personality and runner Wakana Fukushima. I couldn’t find it on my 2019 Yama to Kogen Map but it is marked with a dotted line in later editions. It seemed like the perfect opportunity to revisit Mt Hinode via a different route, and to redo the upper part of the Hinode Alps. Afterwards, I could descend via a variant of the Hinode Hiking Trail to Tsurutsuru onsen for a refreshing post-hike hot bath.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Ome line to Ome station, then change to the Okutama line and get off at Mitake station; finally, I’d cross a bridge over the Tama river to reach the trail entrance. From the onsen, I could catch a bus back to Ome station. The weather was supposed to be sunny and hot for the season; I hoped this would be offset by the strong breeze forecast to be blowing around noon. Although this would be my 5th time on Mt Hinode, it would be my first time to climb it from the base and my first time in Spring.

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Start of the Hike (left) The Lani Head Trail (right)

Past Mt Takamine (left) Trail for Mt Hinode (right)

It was a beautiful Spring day in the middle of Golden Week as I rode the Green car to Ome station. After changing to the Okutama line, the train became quite full and I had to stand for the short ride to Mitake station. After admiring the fresh wasabi on sale outside the station building and picking up some free maps from the Mitake Information center, I headed over to Ontake Bridge from where I observed people doing SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) down the Tama river.

The Hinode Alps (left) Nearing the Summit (right)

The Hinode Hiking Trail Variant (left) End of the Hike (right)

I spent a few minutes gazing up and down the spectacular Mitake Gorge (御岳渓谷), not a cloud in sight in either direction. At the other end of the bridge, I passed Poloka Base, a cafe and station running bar, connected to the RUN & BEER community. A little past 11am, I reached the start of the Lani Head Trail (ラニヘッドトレイル), up a grassy track along an old stone wall. It isn’t signposted from the station, but I found it thanks to my phone GPS. Apparently, “Lani” means “Heaven” in Hawaiian, so the trail name could translate to “Mt Heaven”.

Mitake Gorge, Blue Skies and the New Green of Spring

Log Steps up the Lani Head Trail

I was amazed to have the trail completely to myself, most people having probably gone to the Mitake ropeway. The path was well maintained with log steps in the climbing parts and sturdy handmade signposts placed at regular intervals: it definitely deserves to be better known, although today I was happy to be able to enjoy the quiet surroundings. At 1130, I had a glimpse of the Tama river valley through the pines. A few minutes later, I reached a wider view on the north side.

View of the Upper Tama River Valley

View North from the Lani Head Trail

I was glad to get such a wide view near the start of the hike, especially since it allowed me to gaze down at the Tama river valley from a new angle. Here, I finally passed a handful of hikers heading down this hidden trail. After I reentered the forest, the wind started to blow hard, making me worried about falling branches. When the wind dropped, I could observe a beautiful dapple of light and shadow dancing at my feet. Above the treetops, I could see Mt Bonomine and Mt Kawanori to the northwest. At noon, I reached a bell next to a large signboard for the Lani Head trail.

Higher Section of the Lani Head Trail

View of Mt Aso past Takamine

The breeze picked up again, forcing me to put on an extra layer of clothing. Thirty minutes of steady climbing brought me to the minor summit of Mt Takamine (高峰 755m), a barely noticeable prominence on the Hinode Alps (日の出アルプス), surrounded by forest. I took a short break on a tree stump while watching the tall cedars sway in the breeze. To the left, the trail headed gradually downhill towards Mt Mimuro and Hinatawada station. I walked downhill through the cedars, and soon got onto the main trail, a wider path bypassing the minor peaks along the Alps, which I had followed in 2014. Almost at once, the main trail swerved left, avoiding the next prominence, and around the bend, a wide view appeared on the left side.

View of the Kanto Plain on the way to Mt Hinode

The Tanzawa Mountains from Mt Hinode

I was pleased I had ventured a little way along the main trail, as I had completely forgotten about this viewpoint. To the south was the pointed top of Mt Aso, one of the 3 peaks of Hinode (Hinode-Sanzan 日の出三山); looking east, I could see the Kanto plain and the suburbs of western Tokyo. I retraced my steps and headed up a faint trail, not shown on my map; as I followed the ridgeline, I noticed “Hinode Alps” written on short square poles similar to those from last week. I passed another minor peak, Ryu-no-Hige (竜の髭 768m meaning “dragon whiskers”) and then, at the top of a series of log steps, emerged from the forest into the bright midday sun.

Benches at the Summit of Mt Hinode

The Kanto Plain and the City of Tokyo

It was my first time to approach from this side, and looking ahead, I could see stone steps and walls, making it feel like I was about to enter a mountaintop fortress. After a final effort, I was standing on top of Mt Hinode (日の出山ひのでやま hinodeyama). Since it was nearly 2pm, I sat on one of the benches for lunch with a view. Few people remained at this time, but the wind had died down, making conditions a lot more pleasant than my previous visit on a hot June day. On the south side was the classic view of the Kanto Plain under an almost cloudless blue sky on this warm Spring day.

Mt Aso (left) & the Tokura-sanzan (right)

Tokura-sanzan from below Mt Hinode

I was happy to see that the north side was also clear of clouds; I could make out Mt Mitake, with Mt Honita to its right and Mt Kumotori to its left. I resumed my hike and headed back to the start of the log steps, also the junction with the main trail. Here, I turned right, going around the summit on the south side. At 3pm, I rejoined the main trail descending the south side of Mt Hinode. From near Komuro rock, I had a view of Mt Aso and the Tokura-sanzan to the south. At the junction for the Hinode Hiking Trail, I continued straight on a forestry road and soon reached a cleared section giving me a view of the forested ridgeline of the Shirataki hiking route. As I descended into the valley, the dirt road turned into a paved road; I entered a cedar forest alongside a mountain stream.

Walking the Forestry Road to Tsurutsuru Onsen

Bridge at the End of the Hiking Trail

I enjoyed walking with the sound of running water, a nice bonus near the end of today’s hike; soon I could also enjoy the sight of water rushing down miniature gorges and over tiny waterfalls. A little before 4pm, I passed the end of the Hinode Hiking trail, just before a bridge over the river. From there it was a 15-minute walk along a road to Tsurutsuru onsen. After a relaxing hot spring bath, I boarded the bus for the short ride back to Ome station, where I transferred to the Ome line for the one-hour trip back to Tokyo.

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Mt Katsubo (454m), Hinode Town & Akiruno City, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, April 25, 2026

I found out about this hike at the eastern edge of the Okutama mountains valley by checking locations on Google Maps. Apparently the trail is maintained by three different local hiking associations and is not yet featured in any guidebooks. Looking online, I saw I could make a loop from Musashi-Itsukaichi station. After enjoying the three viewpoints located near the summit, I’d follow the ridgeline west, and then south, past 3 minor summits. Along the way, I could make a short detour to a famous tree.

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line to Haijima station, and then change to the Itsukaichi line which I’d ride to the last station. There, I’d board a bus for just a few minutes to the Oguno JHS stop, a short distance from the trail entrance. From the end of the hike, I could walk back to the station; along the way, I could take a shortcut along a section of an ancient old. The weather was supposed to be overcast in the morning turning sunny in the afternoon, with temperatures cool for the season. I was looking to forward to climbing a new peak close to Tokyo.

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Start of the hike (left) Past the Mt Katsubo Forest Road Viewpoint (right)

Trail past Mt Katsubo (left) Sennen no Chigiri Sugi (right)

Clouds covered the entire sky as I rode the Green car from Shinjuku station, the complete opposite from my previous hike two weeks before. I got off the bus around 10:30am and took my time to get to the trail entrance, hoping the cloud cover would break soon. After a small detour via the quiet Sachigami Shrine (幸神神), here and there Japanese irises (“shaga”) in full bloom, I reached the start of the hike on the left bank of Hirai river; it was marked by 3 sets of handmade signs, one for each local hiking association.

Trail past Mt Fukasawa (left) Trail before the Azuma (right)

Trail past the Azuma (left) Near the End of the Hike (right)

I was surprised to see 3 competing sets of signs; the Mt Hinode Association ones seemed the sturdiest, short square poles embedded in the ground, although I had to squat to read the printed information. At 11am, I started up a grassy slope and entered a mixed forest. Past some tall pines, the trail crossed a forest road and dived back into the forest; however, I soon popped back onto the same road, the hiking path being just a shortcut, and turned right. Half an hour after setting off from the trail entrance, I reached the Mt Katsubo Forest road viewpoint (勝峰山林道展望広場), a wide open space with a view on the east side.

Sachigame Shrine with “shaga” in Full Bloom

Walking the Left Bank of Hirai River to the Trail Entrance

I was thrilled to reach a viewpoint so soon after setting off. I set my pack down next to one of the picnic tables for a short break to admire the view. Straight ahead I could observe the Hirai river valley, the various buildings looking like toy models from this high vantage point; beyond, I recognised the Hamura Kusabana Hills south of the Tama river; on the right side, I could see the Akigawa river valley with the Akigawa Hills along its south side; in the far distance the Tokyo suburbs filled up the Kanto Plain. According to a signboard, a scene from a popular drama has been filmed at this location.

End of the Shortcut and Start of the Forest Road

Picnic Table at the Mt Katsubo Forest Road Viewpoint

It felt chilly on this overcast Spring day but I imagined this would be a nice spot for a picnic in warmer weather. I lingered till the noon chime, hoping the sun would come out. I followed a wide and well-maintained trail, spaced out log steps protecting the steeper sections from erosion. After passing by a second viewpoint with a similar view from before, and then under the branch of an ancient tree, propped up by a wooden support, I headed down a side trail on the right to the third viewpoint shown on Google Maps. This one was a little disappointing as it was partially blocked by the vegetation. I retraced my steps and very soon reached the top of Mt Katsubo (勝峰山かつぼうやま katsubouyama meaning “victory peak”), a pleasant grassy summit surrounded by trees but with a partial view on the north side.

View of the Hirai River Valley and Hamura Kusabana Hills

View of the Akigawa River Valley and the Akigawa Hills

I was lucky to have the summit entirely to myself. Since it was 12:30pm, I sat on a bench for an early lunch, right next to a large golden bell called the “Bell of Happiness” (幸せの鐘). According to a signpost it had been moved several years ago from the nearby summit of Mt Hinode (visible through the trees) and the custom is to ring it three times: the first for happiness, the second for peace, and the third for hope. Just as I finished my lunch, the sun suddenly came out, briefly bathing the summit area in light.

Log steps on the way to Mt Katsubo

Branch Supported by a Wooden Prop

Looking up, I was relieved to see that large patches of blue sky had finally appeared. After relaxing at the top for nearly one hour, I continued my hike, and after some descending, reached a junction; to the right was the trail for Mt Aso and Mt Hinode which I hope to do one day. I ventured down it a short way and was rewarded with a wide view of the Hinode Alps to the north. I continued along the left branch, following the narrow ridgeline south, and soon reached a turnoff for the famous tree, down in the valley. After about ten minutes of descending a rough path, I spotted a huge double-trunked tree, called “Sennen no Chigiri Sugi” (千年の契り杉) meaning “The Cedar of the Thousand-Year Vow”.

Final Steps before the Summit of Mt Katsubo

View North from Mt Katsubo

I approached this ancient cedar with wonder. Like for Tarosugi, a circular path allowed me to admire this 45 meter-high giant from several angles, its expansive crown filling the space above. I then made my way back to the ridgeline, and after a short ascent, reached the minor summit of Mt Fukusawa (深沢山ふかさわやま 460m). Since it was completely in the trees, I continued without a break. The next section took me through some beautiful mixed forest, the silence occasionally interrupted by birdsong, no other hikers along this lonely trail; it was hard to believe I was within walking distance of a train station. After passing a neglected open shelter (“azuma“), I had an unexpected view southwards through a gap in the vegetation.

Summit of Mt Katsubo Bathed in Sunlight

Hinode Alps from the Trail for Mt Aso and Mt Hinode

I was delighted to get another view at this stage of the hike. Looking south I could see the Akigawa Hills extend eastwards under mostly blue skies. I set off again, quickly descending through thick forest, passing another minor summit, Mt Tameguso (ためぐそ山ためぐそやま 327m) along the way. Despite the three signpost system, several junctions were unmarked, and I had to rely on my phone GPS to find the correct path; this perhaps explains why it’s shown as a dotted line on some maps. At 3pm, I arrived at the third and final minor summit of the day, Mt Jizo (地蔵山じぞうやま 323m), marked by a small Jizo statue. After a short break, I resumed my hike.

The Cedar of the Thousand-Year Vow

View South past the Open Shelter

I headed steadily downhill through tall cedars that shielded me from the afternoon sunlight. Here and there, I saw signs of civilisation; after a steep but short section, lined with a rope for safety, I popped onto a small paved road. It was only 3h30pm so I headed back to the station at a leisurely pace, enjoying the garden flowers in full bloom. I saw white and puffy Japanese Snowballs (odemari), yellow Banksia Roses (mokkobara) and Irises (ayame). I soon arrived at the turnoff for Maiamai Slope (まいまい坂 meaning “snail slope”), part of an ancient road connecting Ome and Itsukaichi. A couple of minutes later, I reached a small metallic bridge over a stream at the base of the slope.

Trail between Mt Tameguso and Mt Jizo

Flower Field at the Base of Maimai Slope

Directly ahead, I had a charming view of a flower field under light blue skies, a typical spring scenery. I followed a paved road up the opposite slope at the top of which I was suddenly inside a residential neighbourhood. A short walk through the streets brought me back to Musashi-Itsukaichi station where, after sampling some local sake at the Newdays sake server, I caught the local train for Haijima station. There, I boarded the Green car for the comfortable one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Ohane (992m) & Mt Makiyose (1182m), Hinohara Village, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, April 11, 2026

I wanted to visit Kazuma no Yu because it was the only hot spring resort I had never been to in the Okutama area. Looking at my map, I saw I could walk from the Akigawa valley up to the Sasaone Ridge which I’d then follow for a short while, before heading back into the valley, and ending at Kazuma hot spring, less than a kilometer from my starting point. I had already walked this portion of the Sasaone ridge but not the up and down sections. This hike is also recommended on the Hinohara Village website. On the way, I’d pass by two peaks, with views of the “Three Mountains of Okutama”, as well as Mt Fuji.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get the start of the hike, I’d ride the Ome line to Haijima station, and there, change to the Itsukaichi line for the short ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station. I’d ride a Nishi-Tokyo bus to the Sengen Ridge Trailhead bus stop, also the starting point for the Sengenrei hike on the opposite ridgeline. After a hot spring bath, I’d use the same route in reverse for the return. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny, ideal for spotting Mt Fuji, with temperatures average for the season. I happened to find out that Hinohara was a secret cherry blossom spot and so I was looking forward to catching some of the last sakura of the year.

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Start of the hike (left) Trail in the Chuo Ward Forest (right)

Entering the Cedar Forest (left) Walking the Sasaone Ridge (right)

It was a beautiful Spring day as I rode the quiet green car through Western Tokyo. I was seated comfortably for the 50-minute bus ride from the station, since extra buses were added to accommodate the higher number of passengers in this season. The Sengenone-tozanguchi (浅間尾根登山口) stop has a shelter with a bench, toilets and a vending machine, making it a great place to get ready for a hike. At 10am, I set off through the Chuo Ward Forest (中央区の森), a forest managed by Chuo City in central Tokyo.

Trail past Wada-toge (left) Trail past Nishihara-toge (right)

Trail for Kazuma-no-yu (left) End of the Hiking Trail (right)

I was delighted to be walking on a well-maintained trail, easier to walk than most trails in the Okutama area. Here and there were well-made signs with the tree names and pictures of their leaves, bark, fruit, etc..for easy identification. The forest was still in winter mode, sunlight streaming through the leafless branches onto the yellow leaves covering the gently ascending path. From time to time, I passed purple “tsutsuji” (azaleas), adding colour to the scenery. At 11h30, I arrived at a bench at the top of Mt Ohane (大羽根山おおはねやま oohane-yama) with a view to the northeast.

A well-maintained Trail in the Chuo Ward Forest

Spring Sun on the Autumn Leaves

I was excited to get such a great view, so soon on my hike, especially since it wasn’t shown on my hiking map. Directly ahead was the triangular summit of Mt Gozen, and further away to its right, Mt Odake. According to the mountain panorama identification board, Mt Takanosu was also visible on the left side but was hidden by tall bright green larches. It was too early for a lunch break so after enjoying the view I set off again along a mostly level trail, leaving the Chuo Ward Forest behind. A few minutes later, I reached another bench, this time with a view to the northwest.

Entering the Larch Forest

Mt Gozen (left) & Mt Odake (right) from Mt Ohane

I felt lucky to get another splendid view, a signpost on a tree next to the log bench calling it “the perfect photo opportunity” (シャッターポイント). Looking ahead, I could see Mt Mito, only 2 of its 3 peaks visible from this angle; in the foreground, I spotted the white blossoms of a “mame-zakura” (Fuji cherry); in the far distance, the summit of Mt Kumotori was poking above the ridgeline. I had now completed my view of the “Okutama Sanzan” (the Okutama 3 Mountains: Mt Mito, Mt Gozen and Mt Odake). It was still early for lunch and I moved on regretfully. A little after noon, I came upon the first sign for Kazuma-no-Yu, the main target of today’s hike, and soon after, I turned right onto Sasaone ridge (笹尾根), which runs from Mt Takao to Mt Mito.

Bright Green Larches in the Foreground

Mt Mito (left) with Mame-zakura in the foreground

I was happy to be walking this pleasant ridge a second time in less than a month, its mostly gradual inclines making it a popular hiking area. For the first time of the day, I passed other hikers, still relatively few this early in the season. At 12h30, I arrived at some benches at Kazuma Pass (数馬峠). Since my last visit nearly 7 years ago, the vegetation had grown high enough to block the view on the south side; however, I was able to distinguish the shape of Mt Fuji through the branches; back in 2019, Japan’s highest mountain had been hiding behind thick clouds. I continued on my way, hoping for a better lunch spot further on. At 1pm, I reached Wada Pass (和田峠) with another view of Mt Fuji on the south side.

Mt Kumotori (center) above the Ridgeline

The “Perfect Photo Opportunity” past Mt Ohane

I was glad to get a better view of Japan’s most famous volcano, this time completely clear of vegetation; however, no benches meant I had to postpone my lunch break a little further. It was extremely pleasant walking along the peaceful, sunny ridgeline, along the border of Tokyo and Yamanashi prefectures; after a little climbing, I arrived at a junction at Nishihara Pass (西原峠). One final short climb brought me to the summit of Mt Makiyose (槇寄山まきよせやま makiyose-yama) where a view of Fuji and a picnic table awaited me. Since it was now 1h30, I put down my pack for a late lunch break.

Walking the Sasaone Ridgeline

View of Mt Fuji from Wada-toge

It was one of the best views of Mt Fuji I’d ever had, its iconic snow cap still fully intact, rising well above the lower elevation mountains in the foreground; best of all, a yama-zakura (mountain cherry blossom tree) was in full bloom on the left side creating a very Japanese landscape. To the left, outside this frame, stood a tall solitary pine tree, adding an extra layer of charm to this summit. Mt Mitsutoge, to the right of Mt Fuji, was the only other peak I could clearly identify. At 2pm, I retraced my steps to Nishihara Pass, where I took the left trail descending back into the Akigawa valley.

Pleasant walking on the Tokyo Yamanashi Border

Mt Fuji from Mt Makiyose

I could walk at a relaxed pace since I was ahead of schedule, and thus could fully enjoy the beautiful nature of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. I continued straight at a junction in the midst of towering pines, and then started to descend a steep, twisting sunken path, log steps occasionally assisting one’s footing. Suddenly I emerged from the shade into a sunny pastoral landscape, forested foothills appearing ahead. After descending through a village along a paved road, here and there various types of blossom trees in full bloom, I arrived at the main road running along the base of the Akigawa river valley. I turned right and a few minutes later, reached Kazuma no Yu, a little after 3pm.

Mt Fuji and Cherry Blossoms

The Chuo Line Mountains & Mitsutoge (right)

I could take my time and relax in the “rotemburo” (outdoor bath), as I had a full hour before my departure time. Around 4pm, I boarded the bus for the ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station. Like on the way there, everyone could sit thanks to the extra buses. Through the window, I got a glimpse of the 400-year old “shidare-zakura” (weeping cherry blossom tree) in full bloom at the henbori (人里) stop; I hope I can return next spring for another hike starting or ending from there. A little after 5pm, I was back at the station where I boarded the train for the one-hour ride to Shinjuku.

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Mt Mito (1531m) & Mt Osawa (1524m), Hinohara Village, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, November 8, 2025

I had been up Mt Mito twice before, in 2010 and 2018, but felt it was time to revisit this 300 famous mountain of Japan inside the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park and the Hinohara Tokyo Citizens’ Forest. I wanted to walk though beautiful forest, see some more Autumn colours, as well as explore new trails close to the capital; with luck, I’d also get a view of Mt Fuji from the summit. Looking at my map, I decided to go up the Otaki and Buna Paths, as I did in 2018, but descend via a new route, the Miyama Path; I’d pass another summit on the way, and end up on the Otaki Path again for the last leg back.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Ome line to Hajima and change to the Istukaichi line for the short ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station. From there, I’d board an express bus for the one-hour trip to Tokyo Citizen’s Forest, the end of the line. I decided to catch the mid-morning bus and take the last one of the day back, meaning I’d need to finish well on time today. The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning turning cloudy in the afternoon. I hoped I’d be able to get some views before the sun vanished and that it wouldn’t be too cold on top of one of Tokyo’s highest peaks.

Start of the Hike (left) Above Otaki Waterfall (right)

Stone Steps (left) and Log Steps (right) on the Beech Path

It was a sunny day as I rode the Green Car through the suburbs of Tokyo. After arriving at Musashi-Itsukaichi station just before 11am, I made my way to the head of the line for the Tomin no mori (東民の森) express bus. Thanks to the bus being only half-full, most hikers having taken the early morning one, I had views on the left and right of the Autumn colours along the Akigawa river, as the bus crossed several bridges on the way up the narrow valley.

Ascending (left) and Level Sections (right) along the Beech Path

Takimi Bridge (left) Mito Otaki Waterfall (right)

I was lucky to spot some monkeys along the road, on the opposite side of the ridge from Hossawa falls where I had spotted them on my 2020 hike. There was little traffic in the middle of the day, allowing the bus to arrive ten minutes before schedule, at 1235. I set off almost immediately to get the most out of the sunny weather, passing many people wrapping up their hike. Within a few minutes I was walking along the “Big Waterfall” Path (大滝の路 ootaki-no-michi), also called the Forest Therapy Road (森林セラピーロード shinrin-serapi-rodo), a wide, level trail through mixed forest. Very soon, I reached a viewpoint on the left side.

Start of the Forest Therapy Road

Viewpoint of the Akigawa Valley from the Otaki Path

I was glad to get a view of the Autumn colours under the blue sky, high thin cirrus clouds announcing an imminent weather change. Directly ahead was the long ridge leading to Sengenrei opposite was the ridge for Mt Maruyama; in the far distance, I could make out the 3 mountains of Tokura (戸倉三山). A sign indicated that the elevation was 1078m, meaning I had about 500 meters to climb. I set off again and at 1pm, arrived at Takimi bridge (滝見橋), a wooden suspended bridge, opposite Mito-otaki (三頭大滝), a 30-meter high waterfall.

Beech Path below the Summit

View of Mt Odake (left) from the Observation Deck

The stream of falling water surrounded by vivid Autumn foliage was more impressive than I had remembered. I spent a few minutes enjoying the view before retracing my steps back to the trail, the other end of the bridge leading nowhere. I soon reached a junction where I took the right branch, the start of the Beech Path (プナの路 buna-no-michi); the left branch was the end of the Miyama Path where I hoped to arrive later on. The rocky path, possibly an ancient road, climbed steadily, crossing a stream several times over man-made stone bridges.

Going Down via the Miyama Path

Autumn Colours on the Miyama Path

I was glad to be walking alongside rushing water since it had been nearly 6 months since my last river hike. I kept up the fast pace, and after reaching a couple of benches at Mushikari Pass (ムシカリ峠), turned right up a series of log steps for the final part of the climb. The beeches here were stunning, with their white trunks and orange leaves. I soon passed a sign for 1500 meters, my fast climbing speed protecting me against the near freezing temperatures. Just after 2pm, I arrived at the Mt Mito West Peak (三頭山西峰 1524m). Mt Mito translates as “three tops” since it is formed of 3 separate peaks. Looking south through a gap in the trees, I could see the top crater of Mt Fuji poking above the clouds; looking north, I could see the prominent peak of Mt Takanosu directly ahead; further away and slightly to the left was Mt Kumotori.

Few People on this Adventurous Trail

Trail before Mito Otaki Waterfall

I suddenly felt very cold, the forecasted clouds having filled most of the sky; after bundling up, I headed down a trail on the west side but soon found myself climbing again. In quick succession, I passed the central and highest peak of Mt Mito (三頭山みとうさん mitou-san) and the Mt Mito east peak (三頭山東峰 1527m), both completely in the trees; beyond was an Observation Point, a wooden deck on the north side of the mountain. Here I dropped my backpack for a late lunch with a view. I could see Mt Gozen and Mt Odake, the Autumn leaves in the foreground slightly muted by the overcast sky. At 2h30, feeling chilled, I shouldered my pack, retraced my steps to Mushikari Pass, and continued straight, following the ridgeline southwards, past the Mt Mito Emergency Hut (三頭山避難小屋). At 3pm, I reached the top of Mt Osawa (大沢山おおさわやま oosawa-yama), Mt Fuji now hidden in the clouds but Mt Mishotai and Mt Kuki both clearly visible.

Takimi Bridge and Otaki Falls

Red Japanese Maple on the Forest Therapy Road

I headed downhill through a deep, quiet forest, now following the Mountain path (深山の路 miyama-no-ro), the only person to venture along it at this late hour. After some level ridge walking, I turned left at a junction, leaving the route of my 2010 hike. From this point it was mostly downhill, through mixed forest in resplendent Autumn colours, interspersed with solitary pines. Around 3h30, I passed a rocky clearing with a view of the triangular summit of Mt Mito on the north side. About 30 minutes later, the path crossed a stream, and after following it for a short while, merged with the Otaki Path. Since I was ahead of schedule, I had time to check out the waterfall again and also drop by the Shinrinkan (森林官 Forest Building) before hopping on the bus for Musashi-Istukaichi station. Light traffic allowed the bus to arrive early again, giving me ample time to buy some local sake before boarding the train for the train ride back to Tokyo.

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Okutama Old Road (Highest Point 619m), Okutama Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, October 5, 2025

I had already walked the Okutama Old Road, also known as the Okutama Historical Road, twice before; however, it had been 8 years since my last visit, so I decided to hike it again to refresh my memory of this interesting trail. I would start from Okutama Lake and walk mostly downhill to Okutama station; by doing it in this direction, I could tackle the steeper sections near the lake first, and also get better views of the Tama river valley.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Start of the Hiking Trail (left) Short Uphill Section (right)

Level Section (left) Near the Highest Section (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I would ride the green car on the Ome line from Shinjuku, and then change to a regular car on the Okutama line at Ome station; from Okutama station, it was a short bus ride to the lake. The weather was supposed to be mostly cloudy without rain and temperatures in the low twenties, ideal for some light hiking. I was looking forward to a relaxing, and hopefully spider-free, hike in the mountains west of Tokyo.

Trail before the Rest Spot (left) Road after the Rest Spot (right)

Steps (left) and Forest Section (right) near the End of the Hike

I was delighted to ride a mostly empty bus to Okutama lake, possibly because in this season most hikers prefer to head to higher destinations. After a quick lunch at a picnic table with a view of Okutama Lake and Oguchi Dam, I set off at 12h30. Soon after, I reached the entrance of the “Old Road” (むかし道 mukashi michi), hidden behind the Mizune Parking lot. After carefully crossing the busy Ome-Kaido Avenue, I headed up a steep paved road.

View of Okutama Lake and Ogouchi Dam

The Okutama mountains from the “Old Road” (2012 Photo)

I was startled to feel some raindrops as I reached a fork; I opted for the shorter, right branch, in case it turned into a downpour, which happened in 2017. Fortunately it soon let up, and after passing a bamboo grove and a view of Okutama lake on the right side, I arrived at the start of a hiking trail; this is also where it meets up with the longer, left branch. After a short uphill section, the trail descended steeply through thick forest, but became level after crossing a stream on a moss-covered concrete bridge.

View of the Tama River from the “Old Road” (2012 Photo)

Paved Part of the Okutama Old Road

I had forgotten the first part of the trail was so narrow, hugging a steep mountainside; however, a metal railing on the valley side ensured it could be walked safely. After some ascending, I reached a metal cross at the highest point of today’s hike, also the turnoff for Mt Mutsuishi; beyond this point, the trail descended into the valley; on the way down, I had another glimpse of the Ogouchi dam through a gap in the vegetation.

Some Sun on a Cloudy Day

Shidakura Bridge across Tama River

I was shocked how close the dam still was after one hour of hiking; however from now I’d be following the Tama river, moving in a mostly straight line towards my destination. I eventually reached the end of the trail near a rest spot with picnic benches and momiji trees; I now found myself walking along a paved road, the river at times visible through the tree branches. At 2h30, I passed Shidakura bridge (しだくら橋), the second of two suspended footbridges; I walked to the halfway point although it’s not part of the Old Road.

View of the Tama River from Shidakura Bridge

Walking on a Gravel Road

I enjoyed views of the Tama River looking down from the bridge; I also had views of spiders when looking up through the steel wires supporting the bridge. At 3pm, I passed by a modern, clean bathroom inside a traditional building, courtesy of OPT or Okutama Pikapika Toilet (“pikapika” means “with a sparkle”). In total, I saw three such toilet buildings, each as sparkling clean as the other; apparently they are also in charge of the one next to Okutama station.

Modern Bathroom inside a Traditional Building

Traces of the Old Railway Line

Past a house with a huge firewood stack, I saw remains of the railway that used to run through the valley; it was abandoned 80 years ago after the completion of the present-day road. At a bend in the road, a signpost guided me onto a footpath on the right side; I followed it through tall cedars, down a small valley, across a narrow bridge, and around a rocky outcrop, after which I found myself walking on a stone-paved path.

Footpath near the End of the Hike

Stone-paved Section Near the End of the “Old Road” (2012 photo)

I stepped up the pace as the light was starting to fade quickly on this cloudy day. Shortly after crossing another disused railway section half-hidden by grass, I arrived back at the Ome-Kaido Avenue at 4h30, also the trailhead of the Okutama Old Road. It took another 5 minutes to get to Okutama Station, from where it was a ninety-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Mitake (929m) & Mt Hinode, (902m), Ome City & Hinode Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, June 22, 2025

I had hiked Mt Hinode one year ago but wanted to return for several reasons. First, the recently introduced “green cars” on the Chuo and Ome lines, would make the ride there and back more comfortable; next, the Mitake ropeway would allow me to start hiking from a higher elevation, essential in this season; finally, I could wash off the sweat at Tsuru Tsuru onsen conveniently located near the end of the trail. This time I’d include the summit of Mt Mitake and descend via the shorter Mt Hinode Hiking Trail.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

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Near the Start (left) Near the End (right) of the Ropeway

To get there, I’d ride the JR Ome line from Shinjuku station to Ome station, and change to the JR Okutama line for the 15-minute ride to Mitake station. There, I’d catch a bus for the short trip to the base of the Mitake Ropeway. For the return, I’d ride the bus from Tsuru Tsuru Onsen to Musashi-Itsukaichi station and take the JR Itsukaichi line to Tachikawa. There, I’d transfer to a “green car” on the JR Chuo line for the thirty-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Bench at Fuji-mine Park (left) Steps up Mt Mitake (left)

The weather was supposed to be sunny but quite hot. I decided to leave late in the morning and start hiking in the early afternoon to avoid the time when the sun is highest in the sky; I’d also reach the onsen in the late afternoon, a good time for a relaxing bath and perhaps an early dinner afterwards. I hoped the high temperatures, as well as the Tokyo prefectural elections held the same day, would reduce the number of people who usually visit this popular Tokyo hiking spot.

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Kanto Plain from Mitake Shrine

Mt Hinode from Mitakesan Station

It was a shock to the system to step out of the air-conditioned train into thirty-something degrees outside Mitake station. Surrounded by the mountains of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park it was hard to believe how hot it was but I hoped the temperature would be more bearable six hundred meters higher up, at the top of the ropeway. The five-minute walk between the bus stop and Takimoto station (滝本駅), the ropeway base station, was particularly tough, a steep paved road directly under the sun.

Riding the Mitake Ropeway

View East from the Top of the Mitake Ropeway

Thankfully few people boarded the ropeway. I got a good spot at the back of the car allowing me to enjoy the view as the ropeway gradually gained altitude. It felt less hot at the top station but I knew that the temperature would still continue to rise. At 2pm, I set off through Fuji-mine Park (富士根園地), a green oasis above the ropeway, mostly deserted on this hot day. Half an hour later, I reached the Mitake Visitor Center (都御岳ビジターセンター) where I examined the exhibits and chatted with the friendly staff, glad to be in a cool space for a short while. After setting off again, now on the Kanto Fureai no Michi, I soon reached the turnoff for the first mountain of the day.

Mt Hinode from the Entrance of Fuji-mine Park

View East from the Entrance of Fuji-mine Park

After making my way up a steep slope and then through a street lined with souvenir shops, I reached a stone “torii” and the first of the several flights of steps leading to the top of this sacred mountain. I questioned the wisdom of going up on the hottest day of the year so far, but it had been 11 years since my last visit and I wanted to refresh my memory of this popular sightseeing spot. At 3pm, I arrived at the red and gold Mitake Shrine (御岳神社), where I had a view of the Okutama mountains on the south side. Slightly behind the main shrine building was the summit marker of Mt Mitake (御岳山みたけさん mitake-san), a Kanto 100 famous mountain. I was so focused on climbing in the heat that I missed the demons carved into the stone steps.

View South from Mitake Shrine

Open Shelter at the Top of Mt Hinode

I was surprised to have the summit to myself as most people seemed to turn back at the shrine. The small auxiliary shrine on this side of the flat summit area seemed to be undergoing some renovation work, blue tarp somewhat spoiling the mystical shrine scenery. It was my third visit, and I had always thought it was completely in the trees, so I was glad to discover that a gap between the cedars allowed for a view of a conical-shaped peak on the west side (possibly Mt Nabewari). I descended back to the junction with the Kanto Fureai no Michi and headed in the direction of Mt Hinode.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from Mt Hinode

View South from Kuromo Rock

I saw very few people during the next section of the hike, although I did count one cat and one domestic goat. At the top of some log steps I emerged from the shade of the forest onto the sunny summit of Mt Hinode (日の出山ひのでやま hinode-yama), my fourth time on this Tokyo 100 famous mountain. The view was better than last year, mostly blue sky in all directions. Since it was past 4pm, I retreated to the benches on the east side, out of the sun at this time of the day, for a late lunch break. By now I was starting to feel the effect of the heat so I soon continued my hike. I made my way down some steep log steps, and then turned left onto the Mt Hinode Hiking Trail (日の出山ハイキングコース), a gently descending path on the south side of the mountain.

Mitake Shrine (photo from 2014)

Mitake Shrine (photo from 2014)

I had the final view of the day from Kuromo Rock (クロモ岩) from where I could see a section of the Shirataki Hiking Trail I had taken last June. After passing the junction with the New Mt Hinode Hiking Trail, which mostly follows a paved road, the trail reentered the forest. After a thirty minute descent in semi-darkness through a dense cedar forest, I was relieved to reach a paved road and be back in the daylight; by now the sun was low enough so that the valley was entirely in the shade. At 5h30, I arrived at Tsuru Tsuru onsen, where I made sure to take a nice cold bath, a necessity after hiking on such a hot day. After a light meal and a cold beer, I boarded the bus waiting outside the hot spring facility for the short trip to the train station.

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Sengenrei (903m), Hinohara Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, September 30, 2024

I was looking for an easy hike close to Tokyo for a misty early autumn day. I had done this long ridgeline twice before, each time on sunny days in the late autumn, so I was familiar with this views; this time, it seemed I’d get to experience a different aspect of the mountain. To reach the start of the hike, I’d take JR local lines to Musashi-Itsukaichi station and from there catch the 9am Nishi-Tokyo bus, for the one-hour ride to the trail entrance.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

For the most part I’d follow a level trail along the Kanto Fureai no Michi, ending at Hossowa Falls, about a thirty minute bus ride back to the station. Some rain was supposed to fall throughout the day but I hoped it would just be light drizzle instead of a heavy downpour. On the bright side, this meant I could expect less people on this trail and so I was looking forward to a relaxing ramble through a familiar area.

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Lots of clouds at the start of the hike

Same view but in good weather (2014 photo)

Light rain started to fall as soon as I got off the bus at the Sengen Ridge Trailhead (浅間尾根登山口); fortunately the bus shelter kept me dry while I got ready. At 10am, I started up a switchback trail leading to the top of the Sengen Ridge. Soon after setting off, the rain stopped, although I could still get wet from the tall grass lining the path. Darks clouds hang overhead but as expected I had the trail mostly to myself.

View South of the Mito-Jimba Ridgeline

Looking down at Hinohara Town

At 1130, I reached a viewpoint on top of an area cleared of trees; through the slowly lifting mist, I could see the ridgeline connecting Mt Mito and Mt Jinba. This deforestation was relatively new as I had no recollection of seeing it 4 years before; I passed several more such areas on the way. Soon after, I spotted the first mushrooms of the year, shaped as parasols; the ground was strewn with chestnut burrs (“igaguri“), both signs of the approaching autumn season.

View North of Mt Gozen

Misty Panorama from Sengenrei

At noon, light rain started to fall again, so I bypassed the true summit, taking a detour on the north side, soon arriving at the Sengen Ridge Rest Area, its most important feature being an open shelter. It was the perfect time to take a lunch break. After 30 minutes the rain stopped and I made my way to the observation deck on the lesser summit of Sengenrei (浅間嶺せんげんれい), a Kanto 100 famous mountain, where I enjoyed a misty panorama. At 1pm, I continued on my way, now on the Kanto Fureai no Michi. After a slippery descent, I turned right at a crossing, and followed a path hugging the north side of the ridge.

Sunny View from the top of Sengenrei (2014 photo)

View North of Mt Odake (2014 photo)

I had several wide views of the misty foothills on the other side of the valley from the top of some more clearings, although the highest points were hidden in the clouds. A little before 2pm, I headed down a rocky river valley, spotting a toad along the way, trying its best to blend in next to a mossy rock. It was only past Tokisaka pass (時坂峠), that I started seeing the first “Jorogumo” spiders of the day, forcing me to wave my stick in front of me to clear the way of hard to spot webs.

View North of Mt Gozen (2014 photo)

Hossowa Falls at the end of the hike

I had almost reached the end of the hike when it started to rain again, this time harder than before. I picked up the pace, arriving at the parking lot at 3pm. I sped up and down the well-maintained path for the falls, my 3rd visit overall, Hossowa waterfall (払沢の滝) looking quite impressive this time, thanks to the more than average rainfall this year. I made sure to buy a box of tofu donuts from nearby Chitoseya before heading to the shelter to wait for the bus back to Musashi-Itsukaichi station, which I reached at 5pm and from where it was a one hour ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Hinode (902m) & Mt Aso (794m), Tokyo Prefecture, Ome City & Hinode Town, Saturday, June 29, 2024

I was looking for another afternoon hike to make the most of the longer days of June. I also wanted to include a river section as it had rained a lot recently. I decided to head to Mt Mitake and follow the Kanto Fureai no Michi to Mt Hinode last visited ten years ago. From there I would follow a ridgeline to a minor peak I had to yet to climb; according to online reports, it had a wide view on the east side. I’d then follow the Shiraiwa-Taki hiking trail westwards to Shiraiwa waterfall, a short distance from the end of the trail. If time allowed, I could drop by nearby Tsuru Tsuru Onsen for a wash and a soak before heading back.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

To get to Mt Mitake, I’d ride the Chuo line from Shinjuku, change to the Ome lime in Tachikawa, change again to the Okutama line in Ome, and get off at Mitake station, a short bus ride from the Mitake cable car. For the return, I’d ride the bus from the hot spring to Musashi-Itsukaichi station, then take the Itsukaichi line to Tachikawa and finally transfer to the Chuo line for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be cloudy with temperatures in the mid-twenties. I hoped the higher humidity would still allow for comfortable hiking. I was looking forward to exploring new trails, getting some good views and seeing lots of rushing water.

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Fureai no Michi past Mitake Village (left) on the way to Mt Hinode (right)

Mt Hinode Trail Before the Summit (left) and Past the Summit (right)

It was a cloudy day as I rode the train from the tall, shiny skyscrapers of Shinjuku to the low, green hills of Ome. As I had left around noon, I was rewarded with sitting space on the trains, as well as on the cable car shuttle bus and the cable car itself, my first time to be comfortably seated after half a dozen trips to the area. It was also my first time to visit in June, the green of spring in full swing, white and purple Hydrangea (ajisai) lining the road.

Trail between Mt Hinode and Mt Aso (left) Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail (right)

Falls (left) and Wooden Walkway (right) along the Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail

It felt pleasantly cool felt as I exited the cable car top station just before 2pm. I was relieved that few people had chosen to visit in the rainy season. After getting ready and checking the view of today’s two peaks from Mitakedaira, I made my way up some steps to an observation deck from where I had a slightly better view of the area. I decided to make a quick detour via Ubuyasu Shrine (産安社), a peaceful spot with some impressive cedars, reminding me that I was inside the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. I then headed down a different path taking care not to slip, the ground still wet from yesterday’s rain, arriving at the Mitake Visitor Center at 2h30, also the junction with the Kanto Fureai no Michi.

View of Mt Aso (left) and Mt Hinode (right) from Mitakedaira

View of Mt Aso (left) and Mt Hinode (right) from the Observation Deck

I suddenly felt quite warm as the sun had came out from behind the clouds. After crossing Mitake Village, I found myself on a level path through cedars, arriving at a junction past a Shinto gate at 3pm. I took the left path heading up the mountain side, and less than half an hour later, arrived at the top of Mt Hinode (日の出山ひのでやま hinodeyama), a Tokyo 100 famous mountain, the name translating as “sunrise mountain”. Looking north, I could see the Okutama Mountains, and to the south, the Tanzawa mountains; straight ahead was the Kanto Plain and Tokyo.

Steps leading to the Observation Deck and Ubuyasu Shrine

View of Tokyo and Kanto Plain from the top of Mt Hinode

I was slightly worried about rain as thick clouds had appeared on the west side, hiding the summit of Mt Mitake. After a break, I set off down a steep trail on the south side, the descent made easier by log steps. Just before 4pm, I reached a T-junction: to the left was the shortest path for Tsurutsuru onsen, favoured by the few remaining hikers; however, I turned right, now following a narrow path, with views of the triangular summit of today’s next mountain on the left side through gaps in the vegetation; I soon left the Fureai no Michi as it descended into the valley on the right. At 4h30 I was standing on the top of Mt Aso (麻生山あそうさん aso-san), feeling quite sweaty despite the short climb.

View of the Triangular Summit of Mt Aso

Second Viewpoint of Mt Aso

I was stunned by breathtaking view of the Kanto plain, the east side completely free of trees and mountains. I was a little behind schedule so instead of taking a breather on one of the several benches, I headed west, now following the Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail (白岩滝ハイキングコース). As I walked down a dark valley, I could hear the bark of deer but never saw any. Very soon, I was walking beside a small charming stream, my hopes for the day fulfilled. A little after 5pm, I arrived at a trail junction, where I went right, sticking close to the rushing water. I passed several small falls before arriving at a point where the trail had collapsed.

View of Mt Mimuro from Asodaira

Trail leading to Shiraiwa-no-Taki Waterfall

I thought I’d have to turn back but then noticed some rope leading down into and then up and out of the jumble of rocks and sand. Proceeding carefully and using the rope, I safely crossed to the other side and was soon walking again on a normal, but slippery trail. Shortly after, I arrived at the highlight of the hike, Shiraiwa waterfall (白岩ノ滝 shiraiwa-no-taki). The path took me right next to the falls, the sound water roaring in my ears; at the base, I crossed a bridge and made my way to a an observation platform on the opposite side.

Preliminary Waterfall near the Collapsed Part of the Trail

View of Shiraiwa Waterfall from the Observation Platform

I gazed in wonder at the thundering falls, wondering how much of the water was due to the recent rainfall. I was also amazed I had the place entirely to myself, although this may have been due to the late hour. I eventually pulled myself away from the view, and at 6pm, arrived at a bus stop at the end of the trail. After a short wait I boarded a bus for the short ride to Tsurutsuru Onsen, at the end of the line. After a refreshing bath, I boarded the bus again for the 30 minute ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station where I boarded the 8pm train, finally arriving back in Shinjuku about an hour later.

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Mt Enokubo (420m), Sagamihara and Hachioji Cities, Kanagawa and Tokyo Prefectures, Saturday, December 24, 2023

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I wanted to do a short and easy hike close to Tokyo for Christmas Eve. I had been doing bits and pieces of the Kanto Fureai no Michi for a while now, and this was a good chance to explore the final section of the Kanagawa trail, starting at Tsukui Lake and ending at Takaosan-guchi Station. I had previously hiked Mt Shiro on the other side of the lake, as well as the first part of the Tokyo Fureai no Michi, from Takaosanguchi station to Mt Shiro (no relation to the Kanagawa one). Since the hike was relatively short, I could leave later than usual, and since it probably had few views, I could expect fewer people. At the end, I could take a hot bath at the Keio Takaosan Onsen, my first time to visit this hot spring right next to the station. The weather was supposed to be cloudy over Tokyo, but sunny over Kanagawa. I would take an express train to Hashimoto Station, and there, transfer to one of the frequent buses for Shiroyama. Afterwards, I could take an express train directly back to Shinjuku. I was looking forward to a relaxing Christmas hike and hoped I could still catch the very last of the autumn colours.

Hiking on the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Hiking up to Misawa Pass (left) Exploring the Tokyo Fureai no Michi (right)

Hiking down from Misawa Pass (left) Heading to the Takao Green Center (right)

The sky was grey and gloomy as I made my way to the bus stop at Hashimoto station. However, blue sky miraculously appeared as I approached my stop, just before Shiroyama dam. I walked a short distance to a viewpoint of the dam where I had breakfast, warming up under the midday sunshine. It was nearly noon when I finally set off, first on a road next to the lake, then along a forest road up the mountain side. I met no other hikers till I arrived at a Buddhist temple called Mine no Yakushi (峰の薬師), at the halfway point.

Shiroyama Dam and Bridge from the Observation Deck

Forest road for Mine no Yakushi

I was delighted to get some views through gaps in the trees on the southeast side. Directly below, I could see Mt Shiroyama, lake Tsukui; filling up the rest of the horizon was the city of Tokyo. Soon after, the forest road turned into a hiking trail, leveling out as it reached the ridgetop. At 1h30, I arrived at Misawa Pass (三沢峠) where the Kanagawa Fureai no Michi intersects with the Tokyo one. I was tempted me to have lunch at one of the tables there, but was dissuaded by the lack of sun. Instead, I headed up a path on the right and soon reached the top of Mt Enokubo (榎窪山えのくぼやま enokubo-yama), completely surrounded by trees.

View of Mt Shiro and Lake Tsukui from Mine no Yakushi

View of western Tokyo from Mine no Yasushi

I was happy to see that one of the three benches was bathed in sunlight and I immediately claimed it for my lunch spot. After my break, I returned to the pass and made a short loop along the Tokyo Fureai no Michi, along which I was lucky to spot some fiery orange “momiji” (Japanese maple). At 2h30, I followed a forest road into the valley on the north side, already in the shade; I had the trail entirely to myself. At one point, I thought I heard a wild animal to my left, but it was just my imagination; later on, I thought I heard water coming from the right side.

Clouds were still hanging over Tokyo

Where the city meets the mountains

I was surprised to see that a stream had appeared at the bottom of the valley, turning my forest walk into a river walk. Soon after passing the Takao Green Center, I was back on a paved road surrounded by fields. I sneaked a peak at the outer gardens of Ukai Chikutei, a Japanese restaurant on the way, and was enchanted by the small waterfall and its carp pond. At 3h30, I joined a busy road at Ume-no-ki-Daira (梅ノ木平) that took me under the impressive Takao interchange. Suddenly, shops appeared on both sides of the road, and a few minutes later, I reached the beautiful Takaosanguchi station. After a satisfying hot spring bath, I hopped on the train for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Waterfall Outside Ukai Chikutei Restaurant

A Rare Shot of Takaosanguchi Station without People

I was glad I was able to stretch out this hike to just over 4 hours, making it a nice Christmas day stroll. The Fureai no Michi frequently follows paved roads but in this case, most of this section was along forest roads and hiking trails. The views from Mine no Yakushi, the hot bath at the end and the easy access at both ends, made it worthwhile. It would be good to return one day to redo the first section of the Tokyo Fureai no Michi, or even a Mt Takao hike.

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Mt Odake (1267m), Okutama Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, November 19, 2022 [Mitakesan Station to Okutama Station]

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

I had hiked this mountain during my first year in Japan, following a route from my hiking in Japan Lonely Planet guidebook. Over the years, I had redone portions of it but not the peak itself. I had originally planned to do the entire route again last summer, but the weather never cooperated; this time, the forecast called for blue skies, little wind and pleasant autumn temperatures.

View towards the Kanto plain from Mitakedaira

I only had faint recollections of the hike, and no blog post, but since it’s a popular, well-trodden trail, I found plenty of information online to refresh my memory. One aspect I could recall was that it was long walk with some steep, rocky sections; fortunately, I was feeling relatively fit and nimble after 3 consecutive hikes.

Mt Nabewari, not part of today’s hiking route

I also knew it would be crowded, especially the first part around Mitake shrine. However, I wanted to go on the weekend to take advantage of the direct train from Shinjuku, a minor comfort to make up for the lack of limited express trains on the JR Ome line. I was looking forward to redoing a classic Tokyo hike inside the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park.

A 60-metre high cedar (left) Hiking in the sun past Okunoin (right)

It was a beautiful, slightly chilly autumn day as I rode the “Okutama Holiday Rapid” through western Tokyo. I had arrived early in Shinjuku to make sure I could sit during the 80-minute trip to Mitake, arriving there at 9am. I boarded a Nishitokyo bus for the short ride to the base of the Mitake Tozan Railway. I tried to be quick but could only get on the second bus, added to help with the weekend crowds. I had better luck on the cable car, ending up with a front view for the ascent.

View of Mt Gozen (foreground) and Mt Mito (background)

I had a wonderful view of the Kanto plain, past some fiery larches, from Mitakedaira (御岳山平) next to the Mitakesan top station. It was nearly 10h30, so I quickly moved on, skipping the many steps to the Mt Mitake summit, climbed twice before. I soon arrived at the Nagaodaira viewpoint (長尾平展望台), a couple of minutes off the main trail, from where I could observe the Akigawa river valley. By 11am, I was back on the main trail.

Mt Fuji, clearly visible from the summit

I continued along the wide, easy-to walk path, following the mountain side. I stopped briefly to gaze up at the 60-meter high “Tengu-no-koshikake” Cedar (天狗の腰掛け杉), and also glimpsed a “Kamoshika”, navigating the steep forested slope below. After Okunoin (奥の院), the path started to climb, merging with the ridgeline around 11h30. After some small ups and downs, I reached the start of the rocky section just before noon.

A steep descent aided by steps

I carefully navigated this section, using the fixed chains for support, occasionally waiting for people ahead of me. Past the rocks, I ducked under a Shinto gate, part of the Odake Shrine (大岳神社) and started up the steep summit climb. A little after noon, I was standing on top of Mt Odake (大岳山おおだけさん oodakesan meaning big peak). From the top of this famous 200-mountain, I had a sweeping view of the Okutama and Tanzawa mountains, with Mt Fuji in the middle. After about an hour, I headed down the other side.

View of Mt Takanosu on the way down to Okutama town

I could enjoy the peace and quiet of the surrounding forest as I saw few people on the descent. The path alternated between level and steep sections, the latter made easier thanks to steps, chains and the occasional short ladder. A little after 2pm, I reached the top of Mt Nokogiriyama (鋸山), surrounded by the trees. An hour later, through a gap in the pines, I had a spectacular view of Mt Takanosu. After a short break, I resumed my descent, quickening my pace as I wanted to be down before dark.

The path alternated between level and steep sections

I was relieved when the path became easier to walk, descending rapidly through the dark forest. At 4pm, just as the sun was dipping below the mountains, I arrived at a small shrine on top of Mt Atago (愛宕山). I took a minute to admire the nearby five-story pagoda, before tackling the final stretch, consisting of a long, steep staircase. I carefully walked down the mossy, narrow steps in the gathering gloom. At 4h30 I emerged onto a road near a bridge across the Tama river. After walking to Okutama station a few minutes away, I hopped on the direct train for the 90-minute ride back to Shinjuku.