Tag: Short Hike

Oyamada Nature Park (Highest Point 147m), Machida City, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, May 30, 2026

I wanted to further explore the Machida Footpath Network, a series of country walks linking the surviving satoyama, wooded valleys, farmland and old village roads of the Tama Hills. I had already walked the section from Aihara to Nanakuni Pass the previous year; this time, I’d traverse Oyamada Ryokuchi, a Tokyo Metropolitan Park on the southern flank of the Tama Hills, just south of the main watershed ridge separating the Tama and Tsurumi River basins. The highlight would be “Miharashi Hiroba” from where I could get a view of the Tanzawa mountains and Mt Fuji.

Hiking in the Tama Hills 多摩丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu Tama line from Shinjuku to Karakida Station, a short walk to the north entrance of the park. After exiting the park’s southern entrance, I’d catch a bus for Machida station from a stop near Tsurumi river; from Machida, I’d ride the Odakyu Romance car back to Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm, and I decided to start late to avoid the hottest time of the day. I was looking forward to enjoying one of the last fine days of Spring before the arrival of the hot and humid Japanese Summer.

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Past Tonbo Pond (left) & Asaza Pond (right)

After Kiban Pass (left) & the Suspension Bridge (right)

I arrived at Karakida station in the early afternoon after a 45 minute ride on an Odakyu express train from Shinjuku. After a light sandwich lunch at the nearby Komeda’s Coffee, I set off around 15h30, heading south, and soon reached the Yokoyama no Michi, hiked on my first outing of the year. I followed it eastwards for a short while before turning right at a fork at the top of a steep slope; back in January, it was covered in snow, but was now a vibrant green. I had arrived at the entrance of Oyamada Ryokuchi (小山田緑地), also the edge of the Tokyo Kokusai Golf Club. A short distance away, I reached a grassy open area a view on the southwestern side.

View towards the Tsurumi River Basin from the Yamanaka Park Annex

Some Shade on a Warm Spring Day

Beyond the well-kept lawn, I could see wooded ridgelines tumbling into the valley, with a glimpse of the Tanzawa mountains in the far distance; it was hard to believe that only moments before, I had been walking through a residential neighbourhood. At 147m, this was the highest point of the hike, on the watershed divide between two water basins. After admiring the view, I set off again at 4pm, now walking through the Yamanaka Park Annex (山中分園). I ventured down a wooden staircase to the right; this turned out to be a short detour allowing me to fully immerse myself in the wooded hillside, and I soon rejoined the main trail via a series of log steps.

Wooden Staircase inside the Yamanaka Annex Park

A Chance for some Green Immersion

Back on the main trail, I had glimpses of the golf course on the left side, few people playing at this late hour. I have often hiked alongside golf courses but today’s route actually cut through it a couple of times; I was glad I had chosen a late afternoon hike as stray balls could be a hazard during busy times. The path started to descend, passing a single, secluded cultivated field on the way; at 1630, I reached a wooden walkway leading to Tonbo Pond (トンボ池) in the Okubo Park Annex (大久保分園). The name means Dragonfly Pond although I saw none in this season. I’ll mostly remember this section for the berry-like fruit that had fallen from nearby trees making sections of the walkway a sticky mess. I then made my way up a hard to spot trail on the left side.

Walkway leading to Dragonfly Pond

Walking along Oyama Slope

This was probably one of the best sections of today’s walk, feeling like a real hiking trail with sturdy stone markers and wooden railings. Very soon, an impressive bamboo grove appeared on my left side, swaying in the gentle spring breeze. At the next junction, I turned left and after passing a high point marked by an electric pylon, reached an open area; this is also the location of one of the park’s well-maintained public bathrooms, inside a wooden, discrete structure. I then turned right, down a paved road sandwiched between two golf greens. It ended at some recently planted rice fields or “tanbo“, reminding me of the Kishi Fields in the Sayama Hills. I turned left and at the end of the the terraced fields, arrived at the small Asaza Pond (アサザ池) meaning fringed water-lily pond, although none could be seen in this season. I continued without a break, up a series of log steps leading deep into the forest.

Green Bamboo and Light Blue Sky

Suspension Bridge inside Umekikubo Park Annex

This was another section that felt more like a walk in the woods rather than a walk in the park, intersections marked by stone markers. I walked past Kiban Pass (きばん峠) but turned left at the next junction. I soon reached a suspension bridge (“tsuribashi“) across Hare Valley (うさぎ谷), a peaceful section of the the Umekikubo Park Annex (梅木窪分園), where one is completely surrounded by greenery. Past the bridge, a series of log steps took me back to the main path. A flat section followed by a short descent brought me to a road crossing beyond which was the main part of the park, as well as the Park Office. It was nearly 17h30, and although sunset was still a full hour away, I decided to pick up the pace.

Log Steps alongside a Bamboo Grove

Skirting the Exercise Field

A series of log steps alongside a bamboo grove led me to a boardwalk through Oyamada-no-tani (小山田の谷), a narrow valley in the southeast corner of the park. I passed a series of ponds, Tame-ike, Kamii-ike, Shimo-ike, and Chosei-ike, before reaching a road and a parking lot at the southeastern edge of the park. Only pond skaters could be seen scooting on the water surface of the ponds, although viewing platforms suggested that other seasons may offer more to see. I retraced my steps and headed up a narrow path between the first and second ponds.

Arriving at Miharashi Hiroba

Mostly Empty at the End of the Day

I instinctively slipped into hiking mode, sweating slightly as I climbed out of the valley, thick vegetation crowding on both sides. Upon reaching a main trail along the top ridge, I turned left, circling clockwise around an exercise field with a protective fence on its south side. Here, I passed a wooden signpost for “Machida Footpath” confirming that I was following a section of the Zushi to Oyamada-Sakuradai route (図師から小山田桜台 ). A few minutes later, I reached Miharashi Hiroba Lookout Field (みはらし広場), the day’s main attraction.

View of Tanzawa from Miharashi Hiroba

Mt Hirugatake (left) & Mt Fuji (right)

Looking southwest, I had a view of the Tanzawa mountains, clearly defined in the late afternoon light; to the right of Mt Hiru, the highest peak, I could just make out the snowy summit of Mt Fuji. A few picnic tables and benches dotted the grassy area, including a few under leafy trees, making this a good picnic spot. I took a break at one of the benches as the sun slowly sunk behind the clouds, enjoying the solitude of this isolated spot. Although visibility was still good in the open space, I knew it would be getting dark inside the forest. I pulled myself away from the imminent sunset and hurried down the hillside to an entrance on the south side of the park.

Setting Sun from Miharashi Hiroba

Sunset Reflected on a Rice Field near Tsurumi River

The light was fading fast but I decided to ignore a nearby bus stop and continue my hike a little longer. Beyond a main road, I rejoined the Tsurumi river which I followed for a while, taking back lanes and faint footpaths at the edge of rice fields. Finally, I made my way to the Sakurabashi stop (桜橋) where I caught a bus shortly before 7pm for the half an hour ride to Machida Station; there, I hopped on the Odakyu Romance car for the thirty-minute trip back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Katsubo (454m), Hinode Town & Akiruno City, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, April 25, 2026

I found out about this hike at the eastern edge of the Okutama mountains valley by checking locations on Google Maps. Apparently the trail is maintained by three different local hiking associations and is not yet featured in any guidebooks. Looking online, I saw I could make a loop from Musashi-Itsukaichi station. After enjoying the three viewpoints located near the summit, I’d follow the ridgeline west, and then south, past 3 minor summits. Along the way, I could make a short detour to a famous tree.

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line to Haijima station, and then change to the Itsukaichi line which I’d ride to the last station. There, I’d board a bus for just a few minutes to the Oguno JHS stop, a short distance from the trail entrance. From the end of the hike, I could walk back to the station; along the way, I could take a shortcut along a section of an ancient old. The weather was supposed to be overcast in the morning turning sunny in the afternoon, with temperatures cool for the season. I was looking to forward to climbing a new peak close to Tokyo.

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Start of the hike (left) Past the Mt Katsubo Forest Road Viewpoint (right)

Trail past Mt Katsubo (left) Sennen no Chigiri Sugi (right)

Clouds covered the entire sky as I rode the Green car from Shinjuku station, the complete opposite from my previous hike two weeks before. I got off the bus around 10:30am and took my time to get to the trail entrance, hoping the cloud cover would break soon. After a small detour via the quiet Sachigami Shrine (幸神神), here and there Japanese irises (“shaga”) in full bloom, I reached the start of the hike on the left bank of Hirai river; it was marked by 3 sets of handmade signs, one for each local hiking association.

Trail past Mt Fukasawa (left) Trail before the Azuma (right)

Trail past the Azuma (left) Near the End of the Hike (right)

I was surprised to see 3 competing sets of signs; the Mt Hinode Association ones seemed the sturdiest, short square poles embedded in the ground, although I had to squat to read the printed information. At 11am, I started up a grassy slope and entered a mixed forest. Past some tall pines, the trail crossed a forest road and dived back into the forest; however, I soon popped back onto the same road, the hiking path being just a shortcut, and turned right. Half an hour after setting off from the trail entrance, I reached the Mt Katsubo Forest road viewpoint (勝峰山林道展望広場), a wide open space with a view on the east side.

Sachigame Shrine with “shaga” in Full Bloom

Walking the Left Bank of Hirai River to the Trail Entrance

I was thrilled to reach a viewpoint so soon after setting off. I set my pack down next to one of the picnic tables for a short break to admire the view. Straight ahead I could observe the Hirai river valley, the various buildings looking like toy models from this high vantage point; beyond, I recognised the Hamura Kusabana Hills south of the Tama river; on the right side, I could see the Akigawa river valley with the Akigawa Hills along its south side; in the far distance the Tokyo suburbs filled up the Kanto Plain. According to a signboard, a scene from a popular drama has been filmed at this location.

End of the Shortcut and Start of the Forest Road

Picnic Table at the Mt Katsubo Forest Road Viewpoint

It felt chilly on this overcast Spring day but I imagined this would be a nice spot for a picnic in warmer weather. I lingered till the noon chime, hoping the sun would come out. I followed a wide and well-maintained trail, spaced out log steps protecting the steeper sections from erosion. After passing by a second viewpoint with a similar view from before, and then under the branch of an ancient tree, propped up by a wooden support, I headed down a side trail on the right to the third viewpoint shown on Google Maps. This one was a little disappointing as it was partially blocked by the vegetation. I retraced my steps and very soon reached the top of Mt Katsubo (勝峰山 かつぼうやま katsubouyama meaning “victory peak”), a pleasant grassy summit surrounded by trees but with a partial view on the north side.

View of the Hirai River Valley and Hamura Kusabana Hills

View of the Akigawa River Valley and the Akigawa Hills

I was lucky to have the summit entirely to myself. Since it was 12:30pm, I sat on a bench for an early lunch, right next to a large golden bell called the “Bell of Happiness” (幸せの鐘). According to a signpost it had been moved several years ago from the nearby summit of Mt Hinode (visible through the trees) and the custom is to ring it three times: the first for happiness, the second for peace, and the third for hope. Just as I finished my lunch, the sun suddenly came out, briefly bathing the summit area in light.

Log steps on the way to Mt Katsubo

Branch Supported by a Wooden Prop

Looking up, I was relieved to see that large patches of blue sky had finally appeared. After relaxing at the top for nearly one hour, I continued my hike, and after some descending, reached a junction; to the right was the trail for Mt Aso and Mt Hinode which I hope to do one day. I ventured down it a short way and was rewarded with a wide view of the Hinode Alps to the north. I continued along the left branch, following the narrow ridgeline south, and soon reached a turnoff for the famous tree, down in the valley. After about ten minutes of descending a rough path, I spotted a huge double-trunked tree, called “Sennen no Chigiri Sugi” (千年の契り杉) meaning “The Cedar of the Thousand-Year Vow”.

Final Steps before the Summit of Mt Katsubo

View North from Mt Katsubo

I approached this ancient cedar with wonder. Like for Tarosugi, a circular path allowed me to admire this 45 meter-high giant from several angles, its expansive crown filling the space above. I then made my way back to the ridgeline, and after a short ascent, reached the minor summit of Mt Fukusawa (深沢山 ふかさわやま 460m). Since it was completely in the trees, I continued without a break. The next section took me through some beautiful mixed forest, the silence occasionally interrupted by birdsong, no other hikers along this lonely trail; it was hard to believe I was within walking distance of a train station. After passing a neglected open shelter (“azuma“), I had an unexpected view southwards through a gap in the vegetation.

Summit of Mt Katsubo Bathed in Sunlight

Hinode Alps from the Trail for Mt Aso and Mt Hinode

I was delighted to get another view at this stage of the hike. Looking south I could see the Akigawa Hills extend eastwards under mostly blue skies. I set off again, quickly descending through thick forest, passing another minor summit, Mt Tameguso (ためぐそ山 ためぐそやま 327m) along the way. Despite the three signpost system, several junctions were unmarked, and I had to rely on my phone GPS to find the correct path; this perhaps explains why it’s shown as a dotted line on some maps. At 3pm, I arrived at the third and final minor summit of the day, Mt Jizo (地蔵山 じぞうやま 323m), marked by a small Jizo statue. After a short break, I resumed my hike.

The Cedar of the Thousand-Year Vow

View South past the Open Shelter

I headed steadily downhill through tall cedars that shielded me from the afternoon sunlight. Here and there, I saw signs of civilisation; after a steep but short section, lined with a rope for safety, I popped onto a small paved road. It was only 3h30pm so I headed back to the station at a leisurely pace, enjoying the garden flowers in full bloom. I saw white and puffy Japanese Snowballs (odemari), yellow Banksia Roses (mokkobara) and Irises (ayame). I soon arrived at the turnoff for Maiamai Slope (まいまい坂 meaning “snail slope”), part of an ancient road connecting Ome and Itsukaichi. A couple of minutes later, I reached a small metallic bridge over a stream at the base of the slope.

Trail between Mt Tameguso and Mt Jizo

Flower Field at the Base of Maimai Slope

Directly ahead, I had a charming view of a flower field under light blue skies, a typical spring scenery. I followed a paved road up the opposite slope at the top of which I was suddenly inside a residential neighbourhood. A short walk through the streets brought me back to Musashi-Itsukaichi station where, after sampling some local sake at the Newdays sake server, I caught the local train for Haijima station. There, I boarded the Green car for the comfortable one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Asama (594m) & Sakura Pass (566m), Ichikawa-Misato Town, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, March 29, 2026

I wanted to do a hike where I could see the cherry blossoms in full bloom. Looking online, I found a trail, selected as one of the 100 best in Yamanashi, that promised a cluster of sakura trees near a pass bearing the same name. On the way, I’d pass by a minor peak, and since the hiking time was under 3 hours, I could also make a short round trip to another minor peak further along the ridge. On the way to the trail entrance, I could get a view of the area from the Kai-Ueno Castle observation deck. From the pass, I would follow a forest road into the valley ending near Mitama no Yu hot spring, where I could get a hot spring bath before heading back.

Hiking in the Misaka Mountains 御坂山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express to Kofu station, and there, change to the Minobu line for the half hour trip to Kai-Ueno station. For the return, I’d take a taxi from the hot spring facility back to the station, and then follow the same route in reverse. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny with comfortable temperatures for hiking. According to online reports, the sakura had reached their peak a few days earlier, and so I was looking forward to a relaxing hike in a little-visited corner of Yamanashi prefecture.

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Start of the hike (left) Approaching Mt Asama (right)

Trail pastMt Yumitate (left) Walking along a monorail (right)

It was yet another blue sky day as I rode the Chuo line to Kofu where I transferred to the Minobu line for the next portion of the trip. I got off at Kai-Ueno station a little before noon, my first time getting off at this station. After a short walk, I reached the Kabuki Cultural Park (歌舞伎文化公園), packed with pink cherry blossom trees in full bloom. I paid the entrance fee for Kai-Ueno Castle (上野城址), a recent reconstruction as is often the case with Japanese castles; after briefly checking out the samurai themed exhibits on the various floors, I reached the observation deck at noon.

View of the Southern Alps from Kai-Ueno Castle

The Sakura of the Kabuki Cultural Park

The view of the cherry blossom filled park from above was breathtaking. The Southern Alps could be seen in the far distance on the west side; looking north, the Oku-Chichibu mountains were faintly visible through the midday haze; finally, the relatively lower Misaka mountains extended eastwards. After fully enjoying the view, I headed back down, crossed the park, and headed up a small road lined with cherry blossom trees. I didn’t spot any signposts and had to rely on my phone GPS for this section. At 12h30, I arrived at a thatched-roof rest shelter beyond which was the trail entrance.

Kofu Basin and Oku-Chichibu Mountains from Kai-Ueno Castle

The Misaka Mountains extending Westwards

It felt great to be walking on a hiking trail through the sunlit forest, still in winter mode despite the springtime temperatures, although hints of spring were starting to show here and there. After some gentle climbing, I reached a wide ridgeline with few trees, the views opening up on both sides. To the south, I could observe the next ridgeline, behind which hid Shibireko Lake; looking north, I could see the extensive Kofu Basin. Very soon, I arrived at the flat summit of Mt Asama (浅間山あさまやま asama-yama), a common mountain name in Japan, marked by a solitary peach tree.

Fallen Tree on the way to Mt Asama

Overhanging Tree Branch en route to sakura-toge

I became slightly concerned when thick, dark clouds hid the sun, making me think that rain might be a possibility despite the sunny forecast. I stepped up the pace, and after a short descent, came upon the forest road which I would use to get off the mountain at the end of the hike. For now, I continued up the trail on the other side, and very soon, on a slight rise marked by a stone monument, I reached a bunch of cherry blossom trees in full bloom.

Level Trail before Mt Asama

Descending Trail Past Mt Asama

I was delighted to see sakura in full bloom up in the mountains. These were not the mountain variety but actual Somei Yoshino cherry trees. A handful of people were quietly doing “hanami” (flower watching) under the white and pink blossoms. It felt quite special to be able to enjoy such spectacular trees with so few people. Apparently it’s also possible to see the top of Mt Fuji from this spot, although today clouds hid it from view. As it was nearly 2pm, I sat with my back against a tree trunk and enjoyed a “hanami” lunch under the blossoms, with a view of the Misaka mountains.

Cherry Blossom Trees up in the Mountains

Cherry Blossoms and the Misaka Mountains.

Clouds now covered most of the sky on the south side; since I’d pass through this spot later on, I decided to move on quickly in the hope that the sun would be back by then. A few minutes later, I came upon a handmade signpost for Sakura Pass (桜峠 sakura-touge) next to an actual “yamazakura” or mountain cherry blossom tree, in full bloom. It was my first time to see one so clearly, as they usually grow surrounded by other types of trees. I continued along the unsignposted trail, following the ridgeline southeast.

View of the Kofu Basin from the Top of the Monorail

Walking alongside the Rail Transport System

The trail was surprisingly easy to walk, mostly level along the wide ridgeline, although trees blocked the views on both sides. Eventually, it started to climb, following a sunken path, perhaps an ancient wild animal track. At 2h30, I reached the minor summit of Mt Yumitate (弓建嶺 ゆみたてみね yumitate-mine); according to a local legend, at this spot the Lord Asari Yoichi shot an old woman with an arrow after mistaking her for a white heron. Rather than a white heron, I spotted a “monorail”, or a rail transport system for moving goods, rising up from the other side of the mountain.

Walking back to Mt Yumitate along the Monorail

Heading back to Sakura-toge

This modern device in the midst of nature gave a touch of mystery to the surroundings. After climbing from the next valley, the monorail turned and followed the narrow forested ridgeline. I had seen such transport systems before but it was the first time to see one running parallel to a hiking trail. I set off again and soon I arrived at an even more amazing sight: a huge platform covered in scaffolding, the monorail top station. I followed the trail right up to its base, then up some metallic steps and around the side on a metal walkway, from where, above the trees, I had a view of the Kofu basin. After enjoying the view, I made my way back to Sakura Pass.

Sakura in the Sun

Misaka Mountains from Sakura-toge

The cherry blossoms were even more spectacular now that the sun had returned. I spent some time enjoying them from various angles, the pink white blossoms against the blue sky forming the perfect contrast. Looking north, I could better appreciate the detail of the Misaka mountains, although Mt Fuji was still missing in action. It was past 3pm so I slowly headed to the forest road where I turned right and started the descent into the valley. Half an hour later, I reached some peach orchards at the edge of the forest.

A great Spot for Hanami

Heading Down into the Valley

It was my first time to see peach blossoms on a hike, the pink blossoms covering the mountain side. Shortly after I arrived at Mitamu no Yu where after a refreshing hot spring bath, I called a taxi for the 10-minute ride back to Kai-Ueno station. After getting back to Kofu a little before sunset, I boarded the limited express at for the 90-minute ride back to Tokyo, enjoying along the way the surreal scenery of pink peach blossoms covering the Kofu basin.

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Mt Jinba (854m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Sunday, March 1, 2026

I was looking for a short and easy hike to get back in shape after my winter break. I had already been up Mt Jinba three times, the last time being two years ago, but I still hadn’t explored every trail this popular mountain had to offer. This time, I decided to start close to the lowest trail entrance and head up the long and gentle Ichi-no-O ridge route, the main trail up the mountain. After admiring the panoramic view from the summit, including Mt Fuji, I’d descend via the shorter and steeper Tochitani ridge route, near the end of which I’d be able to get a view of the Tanzawa and Doshi Mountains.

Hiking in the Takao-Jinba Natural Park 都立高尾陣場自然公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line to Fujino station. There, I’d board a bus for the short ride to the next stop from the Jinba mountain trail entrance, from where I’d follow an alternate trail to the ridgeline. This would allow me to skip a steep road climb from the main entrance. After completing the descent, I could drop by Jinya Onsen, my first visit to this hot spring. Afterwards, I’d walk 20 minutes along a road to get to a bus stop. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures warm for the season and I was looking forward to the first Spring hike of the year.

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Start of the Hike (left) Alternate Path for the Ridge (right)

Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (left) Sunny and Level Section (right)

I couldn’t spot a cloud in the sky as I rode the Chuo line westwards through the Tokyo suburbs, Mt Fuji clearly visible to the south. The train leaving Shinjuku station had been delayed but fortunately the connecting train at Takao station kindly waited for us, and thus I was able to board the bus from Fujino station as planned. After a ten-minute ride on a half-empty bus, I got off at Kami-sawai stop, a peaceful spot on the Sawai river, here and there plum blossoms in full bloom. I quickly located a sign for the trail entrance on the right side, and a little after 10am, was following a charming path next to a bamboo grove.

Halfway up (left) Log Steps below the Top (right)

Heading down (left) on the Tochitani Ridge Trail (right)

I was surprised to see no one on the trail on this beautiful spring day, probably due to the high levels of cedar pollen in the air. After half an hour of gentle climbing, I turned left onto the wider Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (一ノ尾尾根コース). From this point, I occasionally passed hikers going up and down, but most of the time I had the sunny trail to myself, the mixed forest still leafless in this season. The path alternated between level and climbing sections; turning around in the middle of a slope, I could make out Mt Fuji through the bare trees. An hour and a half after setting off, the trail merged with the the Wada Ridge Route #2 which I had used a couple of years ago.

Trail between Kamisawai and the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

Sunny Section Halfway up the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

I picked up the pace since I was familiar with this section, and soon reached the log steps for the final climb to the summit. Shortly before noon, I was standing on the top of Mt Jinba (陣馬山 じんばさん jinba-san) for the fourth time. I was now surrounded by people, including a camera crew interviewing hikers about their lunch choices; I still managed to find a seat at one of the tables for my own, media-free lunch. Some people were in city clothes, and had probably walked up the steps from the nearby Wada Pass parking lot. The horse statue, for which Mt Jinba is famous for, was looking the worse for wear; I hoped it’d get a facelift in the near future.

View West from Mt Jinba towards Mt Shoto

Hazy Fuji from the Top of Mt Jinba

Mt Fuji was half-hidden by the midday haze due to temperatures topping 20°C in the valley below, but I was still able to admire its perfect snowcap in this season. Westwards, I could see the ridgeline extending towards Mt Shoto, looking very inviting on this fine day; to the north, I could see the Okutama mountains, including Mt Odake and Mt Gozen; on the east side, the Kanto Plain extended into the distance, the Tokyo skyscrapers barely visible. At 12:30, I set off for Meiou Pass, but soon turned right onto a smaller path, leaving the crowds behind. I was now following the Tochitani Ridge Route (栃谷尾根コース) down the mountain.

Red-roof Soba Shop near the Top of Mt Jinba

Trail for Meiou Pass

The trail descended steeply through cedars for a while before reaching a level section; beyond, the narrow trail descended more gently but remained inside the tall cedars, keeping me out of the afternoon sun but hiding most views. I passed few people on the way, allowing me to enjoy the solitude of the mountain. At a small Inari shrine, I made a sharp left turn. I soon emerged from the forest above some tea fields and had a wide view of the Tanzawa mountains to the south. I was against the sun, but could distinguish Mt Oyama, Mt Tanzawa, Mt Hiru, Mt Hinokiboramaru and Mt Omuro; in the foreground, I could also see the Doshi mountains, the Hizure Alps and Mt Sekiro. On the left side of the trail was a Kawazu-zakura (河津桜), an early flowering cherry blossom tree, in full bloom, its pink petals swaying in the breeze.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains on the Tochitani Trail

Cherry Blossoms and Tea Fields

I took my time to enjoy the sweeping view before moving on, since it was only 2pm. Below the tea fields, the trail ended at a road which I followed through the Sawai district, the frequent signposts guiding me in the right direction. At a bend in the road, a sign directed me to a path heading directly down the mountainside, a shortcut to the bottom of the valley. Upon reaching another road, I turned right, and after a short while, arrived at Jinya Onsen (陣谷温泉), a friendly hot spring inn allowing day trippers. I enjoyed a leisurely soak in the indoor hinoki bathtub, large windows letting in generous amounts of sunshine.

Mt Omura (left) & the Doshi mountains (center back)

Mt Hiru (left), Mt Hinokiboramaru (center) & Mt Omuro (right)

I was glad I finally had a chance to visit this hidden hot spring close to Tokyo. In the future I hope to hike the last remaining route on Mt Jinba, the Narako Ridge route, and this would allow me to visit Jinya Onsen again. Feeling refreshed, I set off shortly after 3pm on a gently descending road, alongside the Tochitani River. At the Sawai Post office, I turned left onto a main road, and soon arrived at the Jinba Tozanguchi (陣馬登山口) bus stop where it was a short wait for the bus back to Fujino station. After checking out the Fujino Tourist Information Center and collecting some local maps for future hikes, I boarded the Chuo line for the one-hour trip back to Shinjuku station.

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Mt Monomi (135m), Higashi-matsuyama & Hatoyama Cities, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, February 14, 2026

I was looking for some easy hiking near Tokyo, after a series of challenging hikes. I had already walked from Musashi-Ranzan to Takasaka station 10 years ago, almost to the day; back then, I followed the Hiki Hills Traverse Route (比企丘陵縦断コース). Searching online, I noticed that several trails went through the hilly, forested area on the Takasaka side, making it possible to do a loop hike that would also include a viewpoint of the Kanto mountains. Before the hike, I could also drop by the Peace Museum of Saitama and check out the 360° view from its observatory.

Hiking in the Hiki Hills 比企丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu Tojo express train from Ikebukuro to Takasaka station, and from there, ride a bus for a short while to a stop near the museum; since it wasn’t a long hike I could leave in the mid-morning. For the return, I’d catch the same bus back, a couple of stops up the line. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon; temperatures were expected to be warm for the season. I was looking forward to a short, relaxing hike at the edge of the Kanto Plain.

Steps for Mt Monomi (left) Walking in Ishizaka Forest (right)

Path for Shoboji Temple (left) Steps for Iwadono Kannon Sando (right)

The sun was still shining as I rode the late morning express train through the Saitama suburbs. I was lucky to catch one of the few trains with forward facing seats. At Takasaka station, I made the quick transfer to the city bus, and a little after noon, I got off at a stop a few meters from “Heiwashiryokan Iriguchi” (平和資料館), “The Peace Museum Entrance”. It was a 5-minute walk up a gently sloping road to the Peace Museum of Saitama, located inside Monomiyama Park (物見山公園). After checking out the small museum with its Showa era dioramas, I rode the elevator up the 147.5m tall silver observatory tower, higher than today’s planned hike.

View of Oku-Musashi from the Peace Museum Observatory

View of the Kanto Plain from Mt Monomi

I was excited to get a wide, unobstructed view of the Kanto mountains, no other tall buildings blocking the view. The midday haze had already set in and I had to rely on the detailed panels to help me identify the various peaks; only the pyramid-shaped Mt Buko was easily recognisable. Apparently Mt Fuji and the mountains of Nikko can also be seen when the conditions are right. After exiting the museum, I made my way through the park, along a paved path and up log steps to a flat open space, the top of Mt Monomi (物見山 ものみやま monomiyama), for the second time. Although it’s the highest mountain in the Hiki Hills, a summit marker was nowhere to be found.

Bell Tower at Shoboji

View of Iwadono Kannon Sando from Shoboji

After checking out the view of the Kanto Plain to the east, I headed down the north side and crossed a road, leaving the park behind. I had reached a large parking lot at the edge of the forest. However, before immersing myself in nature, I made my way to the nearby Shoboji Temple (正法寺), also known as Iwadono Kannon (巌殿観音). It was on my return route but I wanted to see it in the sun; thin high-altitude clouds had appeared, announcing an imminent change in weather. At the base of a steep log staircase, I came upon a giant Ginko, completely bare of leaves in this season but certainly an impressive sight in the Autumn.

Entering Ishizaka Forest

Walking the East Ridge Route

My attention was soon caught by a bell tower with a thatch roof, perched at the top of a steep incline with a valley view in the background. After ringing the bell, I admired the view of the “sando“, a main roading leading to the entrance of a temple, running all the way to the base of the hills. I retraced my steps to the parking and followed a sunlit trail through tall pines into Ishizaka Forest (石坂の森). I turned left at a junction onto the East Ridge Route (東の尾根道), heading south along a delightful descending trail; after crossing a stream over a log bridge, I arrived at another parking area. Here, I made a sharp right onto a rougher, climbing path, the Center Ridge route (中央の尾根道), heading back in the opposite direction.

View of the Kanto Plain from Miharashi no Oka

Path leading away from Miharashi no Oka

The path soon leveled and I found myself walking along a ridgeline through mixed forest, mainly consisting of “Konara” and “Kunugi” oaks. After passing the highest point of today’s hike (139m), I reached Miharashi no Oka (見晴らしの丘), an open space with a view on two sides. On the west side, I could see the outline of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains. High-altitude clouds now covered the entire sky, making it hard to make out the fine details, but I could still distinguish the rounded shape of Mt Raiden in the foreground. To the east, I had another view of the featureless Kanto Plain. Since it was 2pm, I sat at a picnic table for a late lunch.

Okuchihibu Mountains from Miharashi no Oka (Photo from Feb 2016)

Mt Yumidate (front left), Mt Buko (right back) & Mt Raiden (right front)

I reflected on how 10 years ago, I had had a much better view on a clearer day. Once finished, I descended a short switchback trail, crossed a road, and headed down a path to Miharashi dai (見晴し台), a slightly less impressive viewpoint on the north side. I then made my way back to the road which I followed for a short while before turning left onto a wide track leading into Shimin no Mori (市民の森). The path was level at first but then descended steeply into a forested valley.

Plum Blossom Tree in Full Bloom

A Hint of Spring in the Hiki Hills

I followed a narrow, twisting past through red pines ending at Iriyama Pond (入山沼). The next section took me along a paved road through a hidden cultivated valley, similar to the Kishi Rice Fields, mostly dormant in the season, but livened up here and there by plum trees in full bloom, a harbinger of Spring. At 3pm, I darted up a slightly overgrown trail on the right side. After a few minutes, I popped out of the thick forest, right next to the bell tower at Shoboji where I had been a couple of hours earlier. I walked over to the top of a long staircase from where I had a bird’s-eye view of the Iwadono Kannon Sando road (巌殿観音参道) extending into the distance.

Shoboji Temple Bell with Iwadono Kannon Sando in the Background

Plum Tree near Shoboji Temple Gate

At the wooden gate at the base of the steps, I passed between two red demons guarding the temple entrance, and then made my way down the “sando“, also dormant in this season, although once again, the occasional plum blossom tree added a little cheer to the surroundings. At one point I spotted something rather unusual, a small playground situated inside the grounds of a shrine. At the end of the “sando“, I turned right onto a larger road, and after a 10-minute walk, arrived at a bus stop. After a short wait, I boarded the bus back to Takasaka station. There, I caught the express train for the one hour ride back to Ikebukuro.

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Miura Reef Route, Miura City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 24th, 2026

I’d visited Jogashima island at the southern end of the Miura peninsula in 2013, and hiked Mt Hodai and Mt Fuji-Miura, its southernmost peaks, in 2015. I had known for a while that the Kanagawa Kanto Fureai no Michi followed its southern coastline from east to west, and after my recent walk on the Boso Peninsula coast, I was in the mood for another seashore hike. Along the way, I’d pass by a famous lighthouse, a couple of bays and several fishing ports; finally, I could expect some good views of the Boso peninsula. This was another popular summer spot which I hoped would be free of people in the middle of winter.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama, and there, change to the limited express on the Keikyu Kurihama line. I’d get off at Miura-Kaigan station, one stop before the end of the line, and then ride a bus to the start of the Fureai no Michi. For the return, I’d catch a bus for Misakiguchi Station, and then ride the limited express again back to Yokohama. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, although quite cold and windy. I hoped the conditions would be tolerable and was looking forward to an interesting outing along the Miura Peninsula coastline.

This hike can only be done at low tide since some sections are under water at high tide. Make sure to check the tide times beforehand.

Start of the Reef Route (left) Tsurugisaki Lighthouse (right)

Reef Path (left) Metal Bridge (right)

It was another blue sky day as I rode the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama. Although there is no extra fee for the Keikyu limited express trains, not all have forward-facing seats, and I ended up having to stand for most of the trip. Fortunately, the spectacular views of Tokyo Bay made time go by faster. At Miura-Kaigan Station, I boarded a bus for the last leg of the trip and was glad to get a seat for a short while. Shortly before noon I got off at a stop on a windswept plateau surrounded by green fields with a view of the Boso peninsula across Tokyo Bay.

View of the Boso Peninsula from Oura Beach

Fureai no Michi Marker on the Reef

It was my first time to see the peaks of the Boso Peninsula so clearly. From left to right I could see Mt Kano, Mt Nokogiri and Mt Tomi, all directly on the sea; further inland, I could make out the summits of Mt Atago, Mt Iyo, Mt Goten and Mt Dainichi. A cold wind started blowing so I quickly headed downhill towards the coast, following the wooden signs of the Fureai no Michi. At a bend in the road I noticed some “suisen” (daffodil) and yellow “katabami” (woodsorrel) in full bloom. Near the base of a slope, I make a short detour to Oura Beach (大浦海水浴場) where I got another view of the Boso Peninsula. I then retraced my steps and soon arrived at Maguchi Port (間口漁港), the first fishing port of the day.

Mt Nokogiri (left) and double-peaked Mt Tomi (right)

Lunch spot between Misaki Cap and Ena Bay

I was surprised how quiet and peaceful the port was on this cold winter day, most boats moored to the quay or even out of water. I saw no one as I made my way round the circular quay, no waves disturbing the dark blue water. At 1pm, I reached the end of the concrete platform and passed through a gap in a wall with tetrapods, wave breaker blocks, on the other side. I suddenly found myself walking on a rocky shore directly on the coast. The transition from walking on flat concrete to balancing on smooth rocktops was quite abrupt and I proceeded slowly to give myself time to adjust to the change.

Sea Waves Crashing into the Reef

Reflected Sunlight on Calmer Waters

The sea, so calm moments before, now turned noisy as waves crashed onto the reef, encouraged by the strong winter wind. I wondered how quickly I’d be able to move among the rocks but I soon spotted a well-defined sandy path near the cliff base; it led to a small beach in the shade of a bluff on the south side. Here stood a wooden signpost for the Fureai no Michi in excellent condition, reassuring me that I’d easily be able to follow the Reef Route (岩礁のみち “gansho no michi“). After observing wavelets gently wash up through rocky inlets, I headed up a road on the right side, temporarily leaving the coastline behind.

Looking back towards the Boso Peninsula

Looking ahead towards Jogashima Island on the left side

I soon arrived at a white tower at the top of the bluff, one of today’s highlights, the Tsurugisaki Cape Lighthouse (剱埼灯台), built more than 150 years ago and featured in a number of dramas. From this higher vantage point I could now see the entire length of the Boso peninsula, all the way to the hilly Minami-boso area. Huge tankers passed slowly through the choppy waters of Tokyo Bay and into the Pacific ocean. Gusts of wind cut my gazing short and I quickly made my way back to the reef. The path headed back onto the rocks and along a narrow ledge protruding from the cliff face, allowing to get past a rocky inlet still free of water. As I rounded Tsurugisaki Cape, a hidden bay opened up in front of me.

Second Break Spot between Ena and Bishamon Bays

Green Algae near Kochizaki Cape

I realised how deceptive distances could be, the far side of the bay now seeming a long way away. I cautiously picked my way through the reef, steering clear of the most slippery rocks. The bay was enclosed by pale yellow cliffs providing few escape routes. It was past low tide, and although hide tide was several hours away, the crashing of windblown waves against the surrounding reef made me nervous. I was reassured by the continued presence of the Fureai no Michi signposts, but they now included warnings to take a detour route in case of high waters, as well a warning of falling rocks.

Green-blue Waters Free of Waves

Tricky Passage on the left side near the End of the Hike

For once, I was relieved to see people along the route, although relatively few in this season. At 2pm, I settled on a whitened log for a lunch break with a view of the cliffs. A sandy section sped me up, and I soon rounded the southern side of the small bay, the outline of Jogashima Island visible in the far distance. Shortly after, I climbed onto the concrete dock of Matsuwa fishing port (松輪漁港) on Ena Bay (江奈湾). From this point, I followed the road as it curved around the bay and then headed up inland. At the highest point, with a view of farmland on the north side, I turned left, heading back to the shore where I resumed walking along the narrow reef between sea and cliffs. I took a second break at another washed up log just before Kochizaki Cape (東風崎), this time facing the wide open sea. The waters were calmer here, the rocks covered in green algae.

Narrow section of the Reef Route

Tidal Waters from the High Tide

This section required some pathfinding in addition to surefootedness to navigate around the deep, twisting water inlets, some already filling up with seawater. Several metal bridges, as well as a series of raised stepping stones, helped me leapfrog over the trickier bits but I could imagine getting trapped by the rising water. A little after 2h30, I reached Bishamon Bay and Fishing port (毘沙門湾・毘沙門漁港), a short section of more relaxed walking before I returned to the reef. The sun was now low on the horizon and I alternated between shaded and sunlight sections. I turned around occasionally to admire the cliffs, golden yellow in the late afternoon sun. Before each bend, I could hear breaking waves and see white foam, further passage seemingly impossible, but gradually a safe passage comes into view, the fierce waves firmly held in check by the reef.

The Route Passes along the Base of the Cliff

Gold-Coloured Cliffs in the Late Afternoon Light

Here and there, short concrete walkways appeared, making it easier to cross wide sections of reef. Around 4pm, I passed Nusuttogari (盗人狩 meaning “hunted thief”) where according to legend a fleeing thief was trapped by the steep cliffs and raging waters. I could easily relate to feeling trapped and quickly escaped from the spot. After passing a dark cave, I slipped through a passage to the left of a rocky cape and entered Miyagawa Port (宮川港), the end of the Miura Reef Route, around 4h30. I headed up a sloping road, leaving the reef behind, and after a 20-minute walk though Miyagawa town, reached a bus stop from where it was a short ride to Misakiguchi station. This time I was lucky to get the more comfortable forward-facing seats on the return trip to Yokohama.

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Shiroyama no Mori (126m), Inagi & Kawasaki Cities, Tokyo & Kanagawa Prefectures, Sunday & Tuesday, December 28 & 30, 2025

I wanted to do my year-end hike inside Tokyo since it’s the one time of the year local lines are mostly empty, as people head to their hometowns for the year-end holidays. The shorter travel times and lower elevations are also better suited to the short, cold days of winter. Finally, I was keen to continue exploring the network of trails south of the Tama river, often overlooked in my quest to scale new peaks.

Path above (left) and behind (right) Myoken-ji

Steps (left) and Susuki (right) on the Shinrinyoku Route

Looking at my map, I picked a station to station hike easily accessible from the city center. I’d ride the Keio Sagamihara line to Inagi station, just 30 minutes from Shinjuku, and first explore the forested, hilly area above Myoken Temple. I’d then head southwest along the Misawa River valley to Kurokawa station. Next, I’d follow the “Forest Bathing” route southeast to Kurihira station. Finally, I’d continue in the same direction along an unnamed ridge path and finish at Satsukidai station on the Odakyu Tama line, also 30 minutes from Shinjuku.

Walking above Shinkoji Park (left) and Town (right)

Path past Kurihira (left) Bamboo Grove before Satsukidai (right)

The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures cold for the season. Although my planned route didn’t include any summits, I hoped to get views of Tokyo, the Kanto Mountains, as well as snow-capped Mt Fuji. I was looking forward to enjoying various “Satoyama” sceneries along the way.

In the end, I decided to break the hike into two parts: I finished at Kurokawa around 3pm on the 28th, and started again from Wakabadai, one station down the line, around 1pm, on the 30th, each section about 3 hours. The weather on the 30th remained sunny but with temperatures warm for the season.

Entrance to Myoken-ji Temple

View of Central Tokyo from Yushi no Satoyama

It was a crisp, cold winter day as I exited Inagi station around 1130am. A short walk brought me to the entrance of the peaceful Myoken-ji temple (妙見寺). After checking out the bell tower, I headed up a steep flight of stone steps to a shrine gate; beyond, a paved road continued uphill through a bamboo grove ending at Myoken shrine. To its right, I found a path ending at a sunny hilltop called Yushi no Satoyama (ゆうしの里山) from where I had a view to the east.

Path for Shiroyama no Mori

View of Mt Fuji from Shiroyama no Mori

I was glad to get a view of central Tokyo so early in the hike. From left to right, I could see Sunshine 60, the Tocho and the Skytree. After admiring the view, I made my way to a nearby open shelter from where I could also see Mt Haruna and Mt Akagi, far away to the north, the highest peaks covered in snow. I followed the hilltop northeast through Shiroyama no Mori (城山の森 126m meaning “the forest of Shiroyama”), the forest hiding the city buildings from view. Past another open shelter, I reached the highest point of today’s hike, and looking to the right, I suddenly spotted Mt Fuji through the bare trees.

Walking through Shiroyama no Mori

Bamboo Grove below Shiroyama no Mori

I was pleased to finally get a good view of the snowy top of Mt Fuji, its base hidden by the Tanzawa mountains; it was also truly unexpected, as this spot is unmarked on my maps. I turned right at the next junction and followed a dirt track along a bamboo grove to the base of the hill. I already felt quite satisfied with this first hour of hiking, having seen a temple, bamboo groves and views of the skyscrapers of Tokyo and Mt Fuji. After passing through some fields, I was back inside a residential neighbourhood. After going under the railway tracks, I turned left, and was now following a pedestrian path running parallel to the Misawa river.

Walking along the Misawa River

View of Wakabadai from Kurokawa Farm

Walking against the sun, I was dazzled by the golden pampas grass, growing on both sides of the river. At 1h30, I reached the Inagi City Chūō Park (稲城中央公園), and shortly after, settled on a stone bench next to a secluded bamboo grove for a lunch break. At 2pm, I resumed my hike. After thirty minutes of walking through fields and residential areas , I arrived at Kasayato Water Park (上谷戸親水公園) in the shade of Kasayato Bridge, spanning the sky. After observing a spinning “suisha” (waterwheel), I followed narrow quiet back lanes to the Kurokawa Farm Village, on a plateau on the south side of the river.

Immersed in Nature on the Shinrinyoku Route

Bench with a view of Shinkoji Town

Turning around, I had a wide view of the river valley, apartment blocks lining the north ridge. I descended the west side and reached Kurokawa station at 3pm. The next day, starting from Keio Wakabadai station, I soon reached the nearby Odakyu Kurokawa station, beyond which was the Kurokawa Youth Outdoor activity center, as well as the start of the “shinrinyoku” (forest bathing) route, part of the Asao walking trails. I followed the pleasant footpath westwards through tall pampas grass waving under blue skies. At the top of some log steps, I turned left at an junction; I was now heading southeast through the suburbs, inside a narrow finger of vegetation, alongside Shinkoji Park (真光寺公園), although its central lawn and lake were hidden by forest.

Elevated Path beyond the Shinkoji Green Space

Entering the Tsurugawadai Ridge Green Space

I was surprised to be enclosed by nature so close to the city center. This section is also known as the Shinkoji Green Space (真光寺緑地) and continues into the Tsurugawa-dai Ridge Green Space (鶴川尾根緑地). At 2pm, I reached a bench with a view at the edge of the forest. Looking west, I could see the Tanzawa mountains with Mt Fuji behind, although less clear then two days ago; stretching south was Shinkoji Town. I made a brief stop for lunch and then continued on my way. After a short stretch of open views, I entered the forest again. The dirt track soon ended at a paved road where I turned left, leaving the ridge and descending into the Katakira river valley, through another agricultural area. At 3pm, I passed through Odakyu Kurihira station and soon reached another ridge trail through a green space on the north side of the valley.

A Trail with a view of the city

Walking through Furusawa Sakai Forest

I was delighted to be once again walking through nature. At 3h30, I passed the Gorida View Park (五力田見晴公園) with a view of the town on the southwest side. At 4pm, I entered Furusawa Sakai (古沢境), the evergreen forest alternating between shade and golden light. At a junction, I turned right and headed down stone steps, bamboo on my right. I turned left upon reaching a road and passed a red shinto gate leading to Kuromyo Shrine (九郎明神社), its grounds being cleaned for the upcoming new year shrine visit. Soon after, I came upon some fields where I turned right onto a road leading to Satsukidai station, arriving around 4h30, just on time to catch the train for the next station, Shin-Yurigaoka, where I caught the express for the short ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Ogura (955m), Koshu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 23, 2025

I wanted to do another hike in Yamanashi that could be done by car. Looking at my hiking map, I found a mountain north of Yamanashi city, nearly halfway between Mt Daibosatsu and Mt Obina. It was a relatively short loop with a view of the South Alps and Mt Fuji from the observation tower from the summit. Known for its skunk cabbage fields in early spring, I hoped to have the trails mostly to myself in this season.

To get to the hike, I’d drive a share car from Kofu station to a parking lot at Tamamiya Zazenso Park. On the way there, I would stop by Soba Maru, last visited 5 years ago, for a pre-hike lunch. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures average for the season. I was looking forward to a pleasant Autumn hike in the mountains of Yamanashi and hoped to get a glimpse of snow-capped Fuji.

Trail between the Skunk Cabbage Fields and the Ridgeline

Some Colours on the Descent

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the Chuo limited express to Kofu city. It was a pleasant drive to Soba Maru, trees lining the roads resplendent in their Autumn colours. At 1230, it was the middle of the lunch rush hour and it took about an hour before I was seated; while waiting, I was able to admire the view of the mountains of Oku-Chichibu, clearly visible at this time of the year. After a satisfying lunch, I quickly set off again, arriving at Tamamiya Zazenso Park (玉宮ざぜん草公園 ) at 2h30, one hour behind schedule.

View towards Mt Konara (right) from Soba Maru

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains from Soba Maru

I headed up the main trail, ignoring the wooden walkways on each side as the Skunk Cabbage fields lay dormant in this season. The trail headed straight up a valley already in the shade; the path was covered in yellow leaves, Autumn nearly over at this elevation. At 3pm, I reached the sunny ridgeline, where I turned right. After ten minutes of climbing through dark cedars, I reached the wooden observation tower at the top of Mt Ogura (小倉山 おぐらやまogura-yama) with a view on the South side.

Trail below the Sunlit Ridgeline

Climbing through Dark Cedars

The sun hung low above the horizon, highlighting the misty valleys between rows of mountains, with the South Alps throning in the background, Mt Kita clearly visible in the center. Leaning over the balcony and looking left, I could see Mt Fuji, although its snowcap wasn’t discernable from this distance and at this time of the day. After this magical view, I retraced my steps and continued straight along the ridge, heading northwards. Under cover of another cedar forest, the trail narrowed and became less distinct.

The Ogura Observation Tower

Misty View of the Yamanashi Mountains

I stepped up the pace, concerned about the late hour. At 4pm, I was once again walking under leafless trees, relieved to be back in the sunlight. At the top of a steep section, interspersed with rocks and lined with roped to indicate the way, I arrived at the minor summit Mt Kamijo (上条山 かみじょうやま kamijo-yama 996m). Although it was completely in the trees, the summit marker was golden in the final sun rays of the day. After a short break, I headed down the north side, descending carefully the steep and slippery, leaf-covered slope.

The South Alps with Mt Kita in the Middle

Stream near the End of the Hike

The trail became hard to pick out, forcing me to rely on my GPS and pink strips attached to tree branches. At 4h30, I turned left at Kamijo Pass (上条峠), and headed down a wide valley; here and there, some Autumn leaves remained, adding colour to the early evening darkness. As the valley deepened, the trail gradually became more defined. I soon arrived at a stream where I turned left, now on the last section of the loop. I turned right just before a solar farm, and past Funamiya Shrine (船宮神社), crossed a bridge over the stream. Just beyond was the road, a short walk from the parking which I reached a little after 5pm, just as the last traces of light faded from above the Kofu basin to the south.

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Mt Kuro (1793m) & Mt Hafu (1674m), Fuefuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 16, 2025

I had climbed these mountains in December 2013 from the Kawaguchiko side. I wanted to hike them again but from the Fuefuki side; I also wanted to try out our Japanwilds Kuro-dake Map for Avenza. Finally, I was interested in riding the free shuttle bus between the Ashigawa Agricultural Products Market “Ogossoya” and the Suzuran-gunseichi Parking Lot; it started running last year to reduce traffic due to the nearby Fujiyama Twin Terrace. However, the bus I had used on my previous trip to the area from Isawa Onsen had been discontinued, so I ended up renting a car from Kofu city instead and skipping the shuttle entirely.

Hiking inside the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

From the parking lot, I could take the most direct route up Mt Kuro, and after checking out the view from the nearby observation point, follow the ridge westwards past Mt Hafu and then down to Shindo Pass, also the location of the Fujiyama Twin Terrace. From there, I would again take the most direct route back to the parking. If time allowed, I could drop by Kamiku no Yu onsen on the way back. The weather was supposed to be sunny but near freezing at higher elevations. I hoped to get some good views of Mt Fuji and also catch the last of the Autumn colours.

Get a map of the Mt Kuro hike

This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer

Find more Japan hiking maps on Avenza

Fallen Leaves (left) and Beeches (right) at the Start of the Hike

Trail near the Top (left) Autumn Colours at the End of the Hike (right)

It was a blue sky day as I drove southwards from Kofu station towards the Misaka Mountains (御坂山地). After following a narrow road along the Ashi river valley, I arrived at the Lily of the Valley Flower Colony Parking Lot (すずらん群生地駐車場) just after 11h30. I had to use a smaller parking for hikers since the main one, a little further down the road, was reserved for people using the Twin Terrace Bus. A little after noon, I set off along a faint path starting from the parking lot. After passing a second parking for hikers and crossing a small bridge over a dry riverbed, I arrived at an electric fence beyond which was the start of a well-defined walking path.

Last Rays of Sun near the Summit of Mt Kuro

Trail near Mt Hafu

I found myself walking among tall beeches, their tops already bare of leaves, drawing attention to their white trunks. After recrossing the dry riverbed, I reached a paved road where I turned right and soon passed the gated entrance for the road for Fujiyama Twin Terrace, closed to private cars. A little further, I arrived at a sign for today’s mountain, pointing to a faint trail heading up the left side of the dry riverbed. Here, I was glad I could see my position on the Japanwilds digital map since the trail was at times hard to follow. At 1pm, I turned right onto a ridge, the path merging with a signposted trail leading to the summit.

Sun Rays Filtering through the clouds

View of Kawaguchiko Lake from below Mt Hafu

I made good time up the steep trail allowing me to stay warm in the frigid temperatures. I was above 1000 meters and Autumn was already well over, the white beeches providing most of the scenery; a sign indicating told me I was inside a 100 famous forest of Yamanashi. The trail gradually became less steep, giving me a chance to catch my breath without having to take a break. After a couple of turns, I suddenly came upon the summit of Mt Kuro (黒岳 くろだけ kuro-dake meaning “Mt Dark”), the highest peak of the Misaka mountains and a 300 famous mountain of Japan. It was completely in the trees so I dropped my pack and headed for the observation point a few meters to the right, hoping to get a glimpse of Mt Fuji.

First Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Autumn Leaves Catching the Sun from the First Terrace

I was surprised to see that thick clouds had rolled in during my ascent, completely hiding Mt Fuji from view. According to the other hikers, I had missed Japan’s iconic volcano by only a few minutes. Looking down, I still had a view of Kawaguchiko lake extending east to west along the base of the mountains. On the right side, I could see Mt Ou and Mt Setto, two other main peaks of the Misaka mountains. I decided to skip my planned lunch break and immediately head to the next summit, in hope that the clouds would have cleared by then. I retraced by steps and headed down a steep path on the west side; beyond Suzuran Pass (すずらん峠), the path became level and easy to walk.

In the Distance, Mt Shakushi and Mt Mishotai

View of Kawaguchi City and its Lake from the 2nd Terrace

This was the most peaceful and pleasant part of the hike, surrounded by pines masking all sounds and views. I soon passed the summit of Mt Hafu (破風山 はふうざん hafu-zan), only noticeable by its summit marker doubling as a signpost. A short way down the west side was another viewpoint of the Fuji Five Lake area. It was past 2pm so I settled down for a late lunch. Although the clouds were still in, sun rays filtering through the gaps created a magical scenery. At 2h30 I set off again, and soon after passing another viewpoint on the left side, I came upon the first terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace at Shindo Pass (新道峠). Opened in July 2021, it was accessible via a short bus ride from the Suzuran Gunseichi parking (a fee is charged each way), and thus was filled with about a dozen sightseers.

Second Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Mt Fuji on a Clear Day (Dec 2013 Photo)

I was stunned by the view of the golden larches covering the foothills, enhanced by the late afternoon sun rays, although Fuji was still stubbornly in the clouds. I made my way to the first terrace, just a few meters away; it was deserted of people, tall pines slightly in the way of the perfect view. It was nearly 3pm, a couple of hours before dark, so I gave up on seeing Japan’s highest mountain and headed down via a paved road, moving to the side once to let the bus pass. Fifteen minutes later, I turned left onto the trail from Suzuran Pass; after descending through dark cedars, I reached a small road the second parking for hikers.

Autumn Leaves near the End of the Hike

A multicolour Japanese Maple Tree

During this part, I finally got a close up view of some beautiful Autumn leaves. A little after 3h30, I arrived back at my car, the last one left in parking area. I drove a short distance to Kamiku-mo-yu, which I reached just before sunset, and after a refreshing hot bath, got back behind the wheel for the return trip to Kofu. Although I experienced a “shy Fuji” today, I was glad I could do a hike in the Fuji area, somewhat of a challenge nowadays due to the high number of overseas visitors. I’d like to return one day and try another hike, but this time starting from Fujiyama Twinterrace.

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Mt Mito (1531m) & Mt Osawa (1524m), Hinohara Village, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, November 8, 2025

I had been up Mt Mito twice before, in 2010 and 2018, but felt it was time to revisit this 300 famous mountain of Japan inside the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park and the Hinohara Tokyo Citizens’ Forest. I wanted to walk though beautiful forest, see some more Autumn colours, as well as explore new trails close to the capital; with luck, I’d also get a view of Mt Fuji from the summit. Looking at my map, I decided to go up the Otaki and Buna Paths, as I did in 2018, but descend via a new route, the Miyama Path; I’d pass another summit on the way, and end up on the Otaki Path again for the last leg back.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Ome line to Hajima and change to the Istukaichi line for the short ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station. From there, I’d board an express bus for the one-hour trip to Tokyo Citizen’s Forest, the end of the line. I decided to catch the mid-morning bus and take the last one of the day back, meaning I’d need to finish well on time today. The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning turning cloudy in the afternoon. I hoped I’d be able to get some views before the sun vanished and that it wouldn’t be too cold on top of one of Tokyo’s highest peaks.

Start of the Hike (left) Above Otaki Waterfall (right)

Stone Steps (left) and Log Steps (right) on the Beech Path

It was a sunny day as I rode the Green Car through the suburbs of Tokyo. After arriving at Musashi-Itsukaichi station just before 11am, I made my way to the head of the line for the Tomin no mori (東民の森) express bus. Thanks to the bus being only half-full, most hikers having taken the early morning one, I had views on the left and right of the Autumn colours along the Akigawa river, as the bus crossed several bridges on the way up the narrow valley.

Ascending (left) and Level Sections (right) along the Beech Path

Takimi Bridge (left) Mito Otaki Waterfall (right)

I was lucky to spot some monkeys along the road, on the opposite side of the ridge from Hossawa falls where I had spotted them on my 2020 hike. There was little traffic in the middle of the day, allowing the bus to arrive ten minutes before schedule, at 1235. I set off almost immediately to get the most out of the sunny weather, passing many people wrapping up their hike. Within a few minutes I was walking along the “Big Waterfall” Path (大滝の路 ootaki-no-michi), also called the Forest Therapy Road (森林セラピーロード shinrin-serapi-rodo), a wide, level trail through mixed forest. Very soon, I reached a viewpoint on the left side.

Start of the Forest Therapy Road

Viewpoint of the Akigawa Valley from the Otaki Path

I was glad to get a view of the Autumn colours under the blue sky, high thin cirrus clouds announcing an imminent weather change. Directly ahead was the long ridge leading to Sengenrei opposite was the ridge for Mt Maruyama; in the far distance, I could make out the 3 mountains of Tokura (戸倉三山). A sign indicated that the elevation was 1078m, meaning I had about 500 meters to climb. I set off again and at 1pm, arrived at Takimi bridge (滝見橋), a wooden suspended bridge, opposite Mito-otaki (三頭大滝), a 30-meter high waterfall.

Beech Path below the Summit

View of Mt Odake (left) from the Observation Deck

The stream of falling water surrounded by vivid Autumn foliage was more impressive than I had remembered. I spent a few minutes enjoying the view before retracing my steps back to the trail, the other end of the bridge leading nowhere. I soon reached a junction where I took the right branch, the start of the Beech Path (プナの路 buna-no-michi); the left branch was the end of the Miyama Path where I hoped to arrive later on. The rocky path, possibly an ancient road, climbed steadily, crossing a stream several times over man-made stone bridges.

Going Down via the Miyama Path

Autumn Colours on the Miyama Path

I was glad to be walking alongside rushing water since it had been nearly 6 months since my last river hike. I kept up the fast pace, and after reaching a couple of benches at Mushikari Pass (ムシカリ峠), turned right up a series of log steps for the final part of the climb. The beeches here were stunning, with their white trunks and orange leaves. I soon passed a sign for 1500 meters, my fast climbing speed protecting me against the near freezing temperatures. Just after 2pm, I arrived at the Mt Mito West Peak (三頭山西峰 1524m). Mt Mito translates as “three tops” since it is formed of 3 separate peaks. Looking south through a gap in the trees, I could see the top crater of Mt Fuji poking above the clouds; looking north, I could see the prominent peak of Mt Takanosu directly ahead; further away and slightly to the left was Mt Kumotori.

Few People on this Adventurous Trail

Trail before Mito Otaki Waterfall

I suddenly felt very cold, the forecasted clouds having filled most of the sky; after bundling up, I headed down a trail on the west side but soon found myself climbing again. In quick succession, I passed the central and highest peak of Mt Mito (三頭山 みとうさん mitou-san) and the Mt Mito east peak (三頭山東峰 1527m), both completely in the trees; beyond was an Observation Point, a wooden deck on the north side of the mountain. Here I dropped my backpack for a late lunch with a view. I could see Mt Gozen and Mt Odake, the Autumn leaves in the foreground slightly muted by the overcast sky. At 2h30, feeling chilled, I shouldered my pack, retraced my steps to Mushikari Pass, and continued straight, following the ridgeline southwards, past the Mt Mito Emergency Hut (三頭山避難小屋). At 3pm, I reached the top of Mt Osawa (大沢山 おおさわやま oosawa-yama), Mt Fuji now hidden in the clouds but Mt Mishotai and Mt Kuki both clearly visible.

Takimi Bridge and Otaki Falls

Red Japanese Maple on the Forest Therapy Road

I headed downhill through a deep, quiet forest, now following the Mountain path (深山の路 miyama-no-ro), the only person to venture along it at this late hour. After some level ridge walking, I turned left at a junction, leaving the route of my 2010 hike. From this point it was mostly downhill, through mixed forest in resplendent Autumn colours, interspersed with solitary pines. Around 3h30, I passed a rocky clearing with a view of the triangular summit of Mt Mito on the north side. About 30 minutes later, the path crossed a stream, and after following it for a short while, merged with the Otaki Path. Since I was ahead of schedule, I had time to check out the waterfall again and also drop by the Shinrinkan (森林官 Forest Building) before hopping on the bus for Musashi-Istukaichi station. Light traffic allowed the bus to arrive early again, giving me ample time to buy some local sake before boarding the train for the train ride back to Tokyo.

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