Tag: Mt Fuji View

Mt Asama (594m) & Sakura Pass (566m), Ichikawa-Misato Town, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, March 29, 2026

I wanted to do a hike where I could see the cherry blossoms in full bloom. Looking online, I found a trail, selected as one of the 100 best in Yamanashi, that promised a cluster of sakura trees near a pass bearing the same name. On the way, I’d pass by a minor peak, and since the hiking time was under 3 hours, I could also make a short round trip to another minor peak further along the ridge. On the way to the trail entrance, I could get a view of the area from the Kai-Ueno Castle observation deck. From the pass, I would follow a forest road into the valley ending near Mitama no Yu hot spring, where I could get a hot spring bath before heading back.

Hiking in the Misaka Mountains 御坂山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express to Kofu station, and there, change to the Minobu line for the half hour trip to Kai-Ueno station. For the return, I’d take a taxi from the hot spring facility back to the station, and then follow the same route in reverse. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny with comfortable temperatures for hiking. According to online reports, the sakura had reached their peak a few days earlier, and so I was looking forward to a relaxing hike in a little-visited corner of Yamanashi prefecture.

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Start of the hike (left) Approaching Mt Asama (right)

Trail pastMt Yumitate (left) Walking along a monorail (right)

It was yet another blue sky day as I rode the Chuo line to Kofu where I transferred to the Minobu line for the next portion of the trip. I got off at Kai-Ueno station a little before noon, my first time getting off at this station. After a short walk, I reached the Kabuki Cultural Park (歌舞伎文化公園), packed with pink cherry blossom trees in full bloom. I paid the entrance fee for Kai-Ueno Castle (上野城址), a recent reconstruction as is often the case with Japanese castles; after briefly checking out the samurai themed exhibits on the various floors, I reached the observation deck at noon.

View of the Southern Alps from Kai-Ueno Castle

The Sakura of the Kabuki Cultural Park

The view of the cherry blossom filled park from above was breathtaking. The Southern Alps could be seen in the far distance on the west side; looking north, the Oku-Chichibu mountains were faintly visible through the midday haze; finally, the relatively lower Misaka mountains extended eastwards. After fully enjoying the view, I headed back down, crossed the park, and headed up a small road lined with cherry blossom trees. I didn’t spot any signposts and had to rely on my phone GPS for this section. At 12h30, I arrived at a thatched-roof rest shelter beyond which was the trail entrance.

Kofu Basin and Oku-Chichibu Mountains from Kai-Ueno Castle

The Misaka Mountains extending Westwards

It felt great to be walking on a hiking trail through the sunlit forest, still in winter mode despite the springtime temperatures, although hints of spring were starting to show here and there. After some gentle climbing, I reached a wide ridgeline with few trees, the views opening up on both sides. To the south, I could observe the next ridgeline, behind which hid Shibireko Lake; looking north, I could see the extensive Kofu Basin. Very soon, I arrived at the flat summit of Mt Asama (浅間山あさまやま asama-yama), a common mountain name in Japan, marked by a solitary peach tree.

Fallen Tree on the way to Mt Asama

Overhanging Tree Branch en route to sakura-toge

I became slightly concerned when thick, dark clouds hid the sun, making me think that rain might be a possibility despite the sunny forecast. I stepped up the pace, and after a short descent, came upon the forest road which I would use to get off the mountain at the end of the hike. For now, I continued up the trail on the other side, and very soon, on a slight rise marked by a stone monument, I reached a bunch of cherry blossom trees in full bloom.

Level Trail before Mt Asama

Descending Trail Past Mt Asama

I was delighted to see sakura in full bloom up in the mountains. These were not the mountain variety but actual Somei Yoshino cherry trees. A handful of people were quietly doing “hanami” (flower watching) under the white and pink blossoms. It felt quite special to be able to enjoy such spectacular trees with so few people. Apparently it’s also possible to see the top of Mt Fuji from this spot, although today clouds hid it from view. As it was nearly 2pm, I sat with my back against a tree trunk and enjoyed a “hanami” lunch under the blossoms, with a view of the Misaka mountains.

Cherry Blossom Trees up in the Mountains

Cherry Blossoms and the Misaka Mountains.

Clouds now covered most of the sky on the south side; since I’d pass through this spot later on, I decided to move on quickly in the hope that the sun would be back by then. A few minutes later, I came upon a handmade signpost for Sakura Pass (桜峠 sakura-touge) next to an actual “yamazakura” or mountain cherry blossom tree, in full bloom. It was my first time to see one so clearly, as they usually grow surrounded by other types of trees. I continued along the unsignposted trail, following the ridgeline southeast.

View of the Kofu Basin from the Top of the Monorail

Walking alongside the Rail Transport System

The trail was surprisingly easy to walk, mostly level along the wide ridgeline, although trees blocked the views on both sides. Eventually, it started to climb, following a sunken path, perhaps an ancient wild animal track. At 2h30, I reached the minor summit of Mt Yumitate (弓建嶺 ゆみたてみね yumitate-mine); according to a local legend, at this spot the Lord Asari Yoichi shot an old woman with an arrow after mistaking her for a white heron. Rather than a white heron, I spotted a “monorail”, or a rail transport system for moving goods, rising up from the other side of the mountain.

Walking back to Mt Yumitate along the Monorail

Heading back to Sakura-toge

This modern device in the midst of nature gave a touch of mystery to the surroundings. After climbing from the next valley, the monorail turned and followed the narrow forested ridgeline. I had seen such transport systems before but it was the first time to see one running parallel to a hiking trail. I set off again and soon I arrived at an even more amazing sight: a huge platform covered in scaffolding, the monorail top station. I followed the trail right up to its base, then up some metallic steps and around the side on a metal walkway, from where, above the trees, I had a view of the Kofu basin. After enjoying the view, I made my way back to Sakura Pass.

Sakura in the Sun

Misaka Mountains from Sakura-toge

The cherry blossoms were even more spectacular now that the sun had returned. I spent some time enjoying them from various angles, the pink white blossoms against the blue sky forming the perfect contrast. Looking north, I could better appreciate the detail of the Misaka mountains, although Mt Fuji was still missing in action. It was past 3pm so I slowly headed to the forest road where I turned right and started the descent into the valley. Half an hour later, I reached some peach orchards at the edge of the forest.

A great Spot for Hanami

Heading Down into the Valley

It was my first time to see peach blossoms on a hike, the pink blossoms covering the mountain side. Shortly after I arrived at Mitamu no Yu where after a refreshing hot spring bath, I called a taxi for the 10-minute ride back to Kai-Ueno station. After getting back to Kofu a little before sunset, I boarded the limited express at for the 90-minute ride back to Tokyo, enjoying along the way the surreal scenery of pink peach blossoms covering the Kofu basin.

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Dairokuten (315m), Mt Hachioji-Shiro (446m) & Fujimidai (554m), Hachioji City, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, March 14, 2026

I wanted to explore the valley I had passed through by bus after last week’s hike. I had already hiked east to west from Hachioji Castle Ruins to Mt Dodokoro via Fujimidai nearly 12 years ago. Looking at my map, I saw I could follow some locally maintained trails north to south, partly overlapping with my 2014 hike, connecting the Northern and Southern branches of the Asa river. Along the way I would pass several viewpoints of Tokyo on the east side. If time allowed, I could finish with a walk through the Takao Plum Blossom area to Takaosanguchi Station.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d take the Chuo line Green Car to Takao station, and from there, ride a bus to nearby Kawara-juku, a short way from the trail entrance at Shingenin Temple. At the end of the hike, after a hot bath at Gokurakuyu Onsen, I could ride the Keio line one stop to Takao station and board the Chuo line back to Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny but windy in the morning. I was looking forward to checking out new trails and views in a familiar area, as well as seeing the plum blossoms, in full bloom in this season.

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Approaching Dairokuten (left) Trail for Hachioji Castle Ruins (right)

Approaching Mt Hachioji-Shiro (left) Trail for Fujimidai (right)

The sun was already high in the sky as I rode the train through western Tokyo, arriving at Takao station shortly after 10am. It was about a 10-minute ride to Kawarajuku-Ohashi, a bus stop on a bridge over the Kitaasa River. Kawara-juku used to be a small post town on an old mountain road connecting Hachioji with Uenohara, although nowadays little remains of its historical past. I arrived at Shingenin temple (心源院) a little before 11am, and after checking out its impressive, bright red bell tower, headed towards the start of today’s hike.

Descending towards Takao Baigo (right) Path for Ura-Takao (right)

Approaching Tenjin Bairin (left) Walking the Takao Baigo Promenade (right)

I was surprised to see detailed, handwritten local signposts at the trail entrance, showing that the paths are well-maintained by local groups. I headed up the Women Slope Trail (女坂ルート) as it seemed more interesting than the Shrine Trail (神社ルート) which started from as shrine on the other side of the temple. After a short climb through thick forest, I found myself walking along a ridge with sparse vegetation. I soon reached a bench at the edge of the forest with a wide view to the north.

Benches mid-way to the first viewpoint

First Viewpoint along the Woman’s Slope

I was delighted to get a view so soon on the hike especially since it wasn’t on my maps. The valley was filled with colourful rooftops spreading to the Akigawa Hills in the far distance. The wind was blowing hard so I continued on my way, now heading southwards. Along the way, I admired the frequent signs, informing me of what to watch for in terms of vegetation (e.g. best time to see a certain type of flower) and what to watch out for in terms of trail hazards (e.g. trail becomes narrow). Shortly after passing the junction with the more direct, but less scenic Shrine Route, I turned left at the next junction, and a couple of minutes later, arrived at Dairokuten (大六天 だいろくてん), the first mountain and second viewpoint of the day.

View North from the Woman Slope Trail

The Colourful Rooftops fill the Valley to the Akigawa Hills

I immediately felt very relaxed in this place, with its handmade tables and seats, in addition to the charming signs. Northeast, I could distinguish the pointed shape of Mt Odake. The Kanto plain extended eastwards, the skyscrapers of central Tokyo barely visible through the haze. Apparently, the Oku-Nikko mountains and Mt Tsukuba can be seen on days with high visibility. I had this heavenly place all to myself; I settled on one of the benches for an early break but was soon chased by a persistent cold wind. I retraced my steps to the last junction and continued straight, now heading south.

Dairokuten Viewpoint

Handmade Benches and Tables

The up and down forested ridge was kept interesting by the frequent signage, revealing many local trails not shown on official maps, place names thoughtfully transcribed in English. Nearly an hour later, I turned right at Sakumon gate site (柵門跡), merging with the main trail for the Hachioji Castle ruins, also the route of my 2014 hike. From this point, official signposts took over, and I saw more people on the trail. After a short climb up ancient stone steps, I reached a level section free of trees on the left side, offering a view of the Kanto Plain.

View North of the pointed summit of Mt Odake

View of the Kanto Plain from near Hachioji Castle Ruins

I spent a few minutes enjoying this wide, unobstructed view, looking down at suburban neighbourhoods nestled between low, forested ridges. A little further on, I arrived at Hachioji-jinja Shrine (八王子神社), a bright red wooden building surrounded by tall cedars. After following a path a short way up to Honmaru site (本丸跡), the highest point of Mt Hachioji-shiro (八王子城山 はちおうじしろやま), marked by a small shrine enclosed by forest, I headed down to a group of sunlit benches and tables next to a tall stone memorial, with a view of Tokyo and the Tanzawa mountains. It was past 1pm, so I sat down for a lunch break. The wind had dropped and I spent nearly an hour enjoying the pleasant warmth of the early spring sun.

Sunlit Benches at Hachioji Castle Ruins

Mt Fuji from Fujimidai (photo March 2014)

I moved quickly along the next section, since I had walked it before. The trail climbed steadily through beautiful forest, protecting me from the sun but offering no views; the surrounding forest was also completely silent, birds and insects still on winter break. At the top of a steep slope, I reached Fujimidai (富士見台 ふじみだい) a little after 2h30. The name means “Mt Fuji View Platform”, however I was too late in the day and Mt Fuji, normally visible above the ridgeline to the southwest, was entirely hidden by clouds; at least I had had a perfect view on my previous visit. I continued my hike, heading downhill and southwards, leaving behind the trail for Mt Dodokoro, once again exploring a new path.

Fallen Trees past Fujimidai

Afternoon sun filtering through the trees

I headed Southwards, the afternoon sun filtering through the trees. I soon passed the minor summit of Mt Kumazasa (熊笹山 くまざさやま 533m), a peaceful, round peak surrounded by cedars. Around here the signposting reverted to handmade, weatherbeaten signs, but missing the charm of those at the start of the hike. I was following less frequented trails, with few views and few people, but offering delightful solitude inside nature. A little after 3pm, I reached a signposted junction. After making a quick round-trip to nearby Taikokuruwa-no-kashira (太鼓曲輪ノ頭(たいこくるわのかしら 410m), a minor summit with a long name, I headed down a switchback trail into the valley. Very soon, I could hear the sound of traffic coming from the busy Chuo expressway. At the bottom of some concrete steps, I reached a paved walking path where I turned right. As it curved around the mountain side, a view opened up on the left side.

Paved Path above the Chuo Expressway

View of the Chuo Expressway, Mt Takao and Plum Blossoms

I was pleasantly surprised by this unexpected view of the valley behind Mt Takao, known as “Uratakao” (裏高尾), less-visited than the city-facing side. Traversing the valley east to west was the Chuo line expressway; one lane soared above the rest, headed for the Hachioji Interchange, where it would merge with the north-south Ken-O expressway. Opposite was Mt Takao, Tokyo’s most famous mountain; the white building of “Beer Mount“, the Mt Takao Beer Garden, was visible halfway along the ridgeline. Looking down, I noticed a white cluster of plum trees, still bathed in the late afternoon light. At the bottom of another concrete staircase, I passed through a tunnel under the expressway, and then through a railway crossing for the Chuo line. After a short walk along the Old Koshu Kaido, I reached the Surizashi Town Open Space (摺指まちの広場).

Surizashi Machi Hiroba from the Kyu-Koshu Kaido

Walking through the Plum Blossoms

I felt lucky to have the plum blossoms to myself, although after 4pm most of the trees were in the shade. After making a quick loop through the open space, I continued along the Old Koshu Kaido but soon turned right into the Takao Umenosato Town Open Space (高尾梅の郷まちの広場) where more plum blossoms awaited. At the far end, I entered the Takao Baigo Promenade (高尾梅郷遊歩道) which I had scouted last summer. It was a pleasant stroll on a narrow path alongside the Minamiasa river, the last rays of sun colouring the scenery golden. Along the way, I passed by the Tenjin plum grove (天神梅林), hiding a small shinto shrine in its midst. Just before 5pm, I left the path for a pedestrian road with rows of plum trees on each side.

View of the Chuo Expressway from Surizashi Town Open Space

Last Section of the Takao Baigo Yuhodo

I was surprised by how many plum trees I had seen on the last section of the hike; I even had to skip a few groves due to the late hour of the day. I soon reached the modern Koshu Kaido where I turned right. A few minutes later I arrived at Takaosanguchi station, just before sunset, more than six hours after setting off. After a refreshing bath at the Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu (京王高尾山温泉極楽湯), I boarded the Keio line for the one stop ride to Takao station; there I boarded the Chuo line green car for the 45-minute comfortable ride back to Shinjuku station.

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Mt Shoto (960m) & Kayamaru (1019m), Sagamihara City & Hinohara Village, Kanagawa & Tokyo Prefectures, Sunday, March 8, 2026

I wanted to do another hike along the Chuo line; I had already explored the area extensively more than 10 years ago but since the introduction of the “green car” last year, I thought it would be a good chance to revisit some of the peaks there in more comfort. I decided to walk the Sasao Ridge between Mikuni and Wada Passes, which I had observed from the summit of Mt Jinba the week before. Along the way, I’d pass by Mt Shoto, a Kanto 100 famous mountain, and a string of minor peaks. It was also part of the Kanto Fureai no Michi section named “Fujimi no Michi” meaning I could get several views of Mt Fuji along the way.

Hiking in the Jinba-Sagamiko Prefectural Natural Park

県立陣馬相模湖自然公園

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi

関東ふれあいの道

To get to the start of the hike, I’d take the Chuo line to Fujino station, and there, ride a bus to the entrance of Sanogawa Village, a couple of stops before the end of the line. For the return, I’d ride a different bus from the Tokyo side to Takao station, from where I could take the Ome line, also equipped with the “green car”, back to Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be clear all day but significantly colder than the previous week, winter not quite over yet. I was looking forward to a ridge walk connecting two valleys and including several chances to see Japan’s most iconic view.

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Start of the Hike (left) Trail above Sanogawa Village (right)

Trail for Mikuni Pass (left) Steps for Kayamaru (right)

It was another beautiful day as I rode the Chuo line westwards, mountains rising up on each side of the tracks. The train arrived on time, but the bus for Wada Pass left five minutes early. It did not seem to be an extra bus, all passengers could find seats; nor did the schedule change: after getting off at Kamasawa Iriguchi (鎌沢入口), the timetable showed I was several minutes early, never a bad thing. I set off a little before 10am, and after crossing a bridge over the Sawai river and passing a Hachiman Shrine, I headed up a steep road with a plum grove on the right side.

Log Steps before Kayamaru (left) Trail past Kayamaru (right)

Log Steps before Mt Rengyo (left) Trail after Mt Rengyo (right)

I was delighted to catch the plum blossoms in full bloom, as I was one month too early for the cherry blossoms for which this route is apparently famous for. I soon found myself walking through Sanogawa village, selected as one of Japan 100 beautiful rural villages, its most notable feature being the terraced tea fields I could see hugging the mountain side. After another steep road, I reached the Kamasawa Prefecture Rest Area (県立鎌沢休憩所), from where, after turning around, I had a view of the summit of Mt Jinba. Next to the last village house was the start of the hiking trail.

Ichi-no-O Ridge on Mt Jinba

Walking under the Sun

I followed a gently rising path, a bamboo grove to my left, as it curved around the mountain side. I soon had a view of the Ichi-no-O ridge, climbed just a week ago. The path gradually turned northwards and headed up a sunny ridge, the trees still bare of leaves. At 11am, I reached several benches the start of the Sakura Promenade (桜プロムナード). Looking left, through branches holding tightly closed buds, I had my first view of Mt Fuji of the day, the perfect shot for anyone visiting one month later. I set off again, and after passing under a silver metallic “torii” (Shinto Shrine gate), continued up the ridgeline for a short while to a junction inside a cedar forest, where I continued straight. Half an hour later, I reached the summit of Mt Mikuni (三国山 みくにさん 960m also known as Mikuni Pass 三国峠), mostly surrounded by trees.

Trail before the Sakura Promenade

Torii Gate on the Sakura Promenade

I was glad to have reached the first summit of the day but slightly disappointed that branches were in the way of my perfect Fuji shot; to the right, the snowy top of the Shirane-Sanzan in the South Alps was just visible. Since the picnic table was occupied, I decided to move on at once. I headed right, now following the Kanto Fureai no Michi along the Sasao Ridge (笹尾根). I made my way up a short, rocky section, the change in terrain quite sudden, and a little past noon, arrived at the top of Mt Shoto (生藤山 しょうとうざん shoto-zan), for the second time. Also, for the second time today, branches interfered with my view of Mt Fuji, contradicting information from my map, guidebook and my own memory, but a good example of how conditions can change over time. I decided to skip this lunch break opportunity, and continue till I got a better view.

Mt Fuji from the Mt Shoto East Peak

Trail between Mt Shoto and Kayamaru

I finally had my perfect view of Mt Fuji, just a few minutes further along the narrow trail, at a spot marked as the Mt Shoto East Peak, but shown as Maruyama (丸山 989m) on some maps. It wasn’t a suitable lunch spot so after admiring the view, I carefully headed down a steep, rocky section. Past the junction with the detour path (巻道 “makimichi“), a safer path around the summit, the trail became easier to walk. I saw less people on this section, perhaps because most people headed back after reaching the top of Mt Shoto. I soon reached another detour path, the level trail straight ahead looking very inviting, but instead, I headed up a series of log steps to my left.

Log steps leading to Kayamaru

Mt Fuji View from Kayamaru

This was probably the best section of the entire hike, the log steps leading me up towards the blue sky, the green pine growing on both sides adding a dash of wilderness to the scenery. A little after 12:30pm, I arrived at Kayamaru (茅丸 かやまる), a little known peak with a perfect Mt Fuji view and the highest point of today’s hike. To the left of Mt Fuji, I had a sweeping view of the Tanzawa and Doshi mountains, the highest peaks tinged in white. I had the summit completely to myself, so I sat on a log to enjoy a peaceful lunch with a view. After nearly an hour, I slowly got going again, heading down a steep path on the east side.

Mt Fuji between Two Pines

The Summit of Kayamaru

The next section of the hike was probably the most fun to walk as it followed the narrow ridgeline through sunny winter forest, with occasional glimpses of Mt Fuji and the Chuo line valley to the right, and the Kanto Plain to the left. At 1:30pm, I reached the minor peak of Mt Rengyo (連行山 れんぎょうさん or 連行峰 れんぎょうほう 1016m) mostly within the trees. To the left a trail headed into the Akigawa valley, but I continued straight. Very soon, I arrived at a wide gap in the trees on the right side, giving me the best Fuji view of the day, perfect from the snowy crater summit free of clouds, to the overlapping ridgelines around the base. At Yama no Kami (山の神), I headed straight again, ignoring a trail to the right leading back to my starting point, public transport giving me the freedom to choose my arrival point.

A Sweeping View South from Kayamaru

Trail between Kayamaru and Mt Rengyo

The path suddenly entered a dense cedar forest and moved to the north side of the ridge, in the shade at this hour. Here and there, I had glimpses of the Okutama mountains, extending northwards. I eventually reached some benches at the top of Mt Daigo (醍醐丸 だいごまる 867m) where I took a short break. Another trail led north to the Tokura-sanzan, an area I’d love to explore again. The summit was completely in the trees and the shade so I quickly set off again, soon arriving at Daigo Pass. It was only 3pm but the surrounding forest was already very dark, with little light reaching the forest floor. I stepped up the pace, and after a certain amount of descending, emerged onto a forest road where I turned right.

Mt Fuji View from the Fujimi no Michi Trail

Last View of Mt Fuji of the Day

I was relieved to finally to leave the dark forest behind at Wada Pass (和田峠 687m). Since it was already past 3:30pm, I opted for the shorter road descent, leaving the Jinba New Trail (陣馬新道) for another day. The hard road surface was a little tough on the body after a full day walking mountain trails, but at the end I was rewarded with the sight of a family of pheasants (“kiji” キジ) crossing a road. I arrived at the Jinba Kogen Shita (陣馬高原下) stop with ten minutes to spare before the 4:30pm departure time, the bus for Takao station already there and allowing passengers to board. At Takao station, I boarded the Chuo line Green Car for the comfortable ride back to Tokyo.

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Mt Jinba (854m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Sunday, March 1, 2026

I was looking for a short and easy hike to get back in shape after my winter break. I had already been up Mt Jinba three times, the last time being two years ago, but I still hadn’t explored every trail this popular mountain had to offer. This time, I decided to start close to the lowest trail entrance and head up the long and gentle Ichi-no-O ridge route, the main trail up the mountain. After admiring the panoramic view from the summit, including Mt Fuji, I’d descend via the shorter and steeper Tochitani ridge route, near the end of which I’d be able to get a view of the Tanzawa and Doshi Mountains.

Hiking in the Takao-Jinba Natural Park 都立高尾陣場自然公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line to Fujino station. There, I’d board a bus for the short ride to the next stop from the Jinba mountain trail entrance, from where I’d follow an alternate trail to the ridgeline. This would allow me to skip a steep road climb from the main entrance. After completing the descent, I could drop by Jinya Onsen, my first visit to this hot spring. Afterwards, I’d walk 20 minutes along a road to get to a bus stop. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures warm for the season and I was looking forward to the first Spring hike of the year.

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Start of the Hike (left) Alternate Path for the Ridge (right)

Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (left) Sunny and Level Section (right)

I couldn’t spot a cloud in the sky as I rode the Chuo line westwards through the Tokyo suburbs, Mt Fuji clearly visible to the south. The train leaving Shinjuku station had been delayed but fortunately the connecting train at Takao station kindly waited for us, and thus I was able to board the bus from Fujino station as planned. After a ten-minute ride on a half-empty bus, I got off at Kami-sawai stop, a peaceful spot on the Sawai river, here and there plum blossoms in full bloom. I quickly located a sign for the trail entrance on the right side, and a little after 10am, was following a charming path next to a bamboo grove.

Halfway up (left) Log Steps below the Top (right)

Heading down (left) on the Tochitani Ridge Trail (right)

I was surprised to see no one on the trail on this beautiful spring day, probably due to the high levels of cedar pollen in the air. After half an hour of gentle climbing, I turned left onto the wider Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (一ノ尾尾根コース). From this point, I occasionally passed hikers going up and down, but most of the time I had the sunny trail to myself, the mixed forest still leafless in this season. The path alternated between level and climbing sections; turning around in the middle of a slope, I could make out Mt Fuji through the bare trees. An hour and a half after setting off, the trail merged with the the Wada Ridge Route #2 which I had used a couple of years ago.

Trail between Kamisawai and the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

Sunny Section Halfway up the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

I picked up the pace since I was familiar with this section, and soon reached the log steps for the final climb to the summit. Shortly before noon, I was standing on the top of Mt Jinba (陣馬山 じんばさん jinba-san) for the fourth time. I was now surrounded by people, including a camera crew interviewing hikers about their lunch choices; I still managed to find a seat at one of the tables for my own, media-free lunch. Some people were in city clothes, and had probably walked up the steps from the nearby Wada Pass parking lot. The horse statue, for which Mt Jinba is famous for, was looking the worse for wear; I hoped it’d get a facelift in the near future.

View West from Mt Jinba towards Mt Shoto

Hazy Fuji from the Top of Mt Jinba

Mt Fuji was half-hidden by the midday haze due to temperatures topping 20°C in the valley below, but I was still able to admire its perfect snowcap in this season. Westwards, I could see the ridgeline extending towards Mt Shoto, looking very inviting on this fine day; to the north, I could see the Okutama mountains, including Mt Odake and Mt Gozen; on the east side, the Kanto Plain extended into the distance, the Tokyo skyscrapers barely visible. At 12:30, I set off for Meiou Pass, but soon turned right onto a smaller path, leaving the crowds behind. I was now following the Tochitani Ridge Route (栃谷尾根コース) down the mountain.

Red-roof Soba Shop near the Top of Mt Jinba

Trail for Meiou Pass

The trail descended steeply through cedars for a while before reaching a level section; beyond, the narrow trail descended more gently but remained inside the tall cedars, keeping me out of the afternoon sun but hiding most views. I passed few people on the way, allowing me to enjoy the solitude of the mountain. At a small Inari shrine, I made a sharp left turn. I soon emerged from the forest above some tea fields and had a wide view of the Tanzawa mountains to the south. I was against the sun, but could distinguish Mt Oyama, Mt Tanzawa, Mt Hiru, Mt Hinokiboramaru and Mt Omuro; in the foreground, I could also see the Doshi mountains, the Hizure Alps and Mt Sekiro. On the left side of the trail was a Kawazu-zakura (河津桜), an early flowering cherry blossom tree, in full bloom, its pink petals swaying in the breeze.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains on the Tochitani Trail

Cherry Blossoms and Tea Fields

I took my time to enjoy the sweeping view before moving on, since it was only 2pm. Below the tea fields, the trail ended at a road which I followed through the Sawai district, the frequent signposts guiding me in the right direction. At a bend in the road, a sign directed me to a path heading directly down the mountainside, a shortcut to the bottom of the valley. Upon reaching another road, I turned right, and after a short while, arrived at Jinya Onsen (陣谷温泉), a friendly hot spring inn allowing day trippers. I enjoyed a leisurely soak in the indoor hinoki bathtub, large windows letting in generous amounts of sunshine.

Mt Omura (left) & the Doshi mountains (center back)

Mt Hiru (left), Mt Hinokiboramaru (center) & Mt Omuro (right)

I was glad I finally had a chance to visit this hidden hot spring close to Tokyo. In the future I hope to hike the last remaining route on Mt Jinba, the Narako Ridge route, and this would allow me to visit Jinya Onsen again. Feeling refreshed, I set off shortly after 3pm on a gently descending road, alongside the Tochitani River. At the Sawai Post office, I turned left onto a main road, and soon arrived at the Jinba Tozanguchi (陣馬登山口) bus stop where it was a short wait for the bus back to Fujino station. After checking out the Fujino Tourist Information Center and collecting some local maps for future hikes, I boarded the Chuo line for the one-hour trip back to Shinjuku station.

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Mt Monomi (135m), Higashi-matsuyama & Hatoyama Cities, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, February 14, 2026

I was looking for some easy hiking near Tokyo, after a series of challenging hikes. I had already walked from Musashi-Ranzan to Takasaka station 10 years ago, almost to the day; back then, I followed the Hiki Hills Traverse Route (比企丘陵縦断コース). Searching online, I noticed that several trails went through the hilly, forested area on the Takasaka side, making it possible to do a loop hike that would also include a viewpoint of the Kanto mountains. Before the hike, I could also drop by the Peace Museum of Saitama and check out the 360° view from its observatory.

Hiking in the Hiki Hills 比企丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu Tojo express train from Ikebukuro to Takasaka station, and from there, ride a bus for a short while to a stop near the museum; since it wasn’t a long hike I could leave in the mid-morning. For the return, I’d catch the same bus back, a couple of stops up the line. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon; temperatures were expected to be warm for the season. I was looking forward to a short, relaxing hike at the edge of the Kanto Plain.

Steps for Mt Monomi (left) Walking in Ishizaka Forest (right)

Path for Shoboji Temple (left) Steps for Iwadono Kannon Sando (right)

The sun was still shining as I rode the late morning express train through the Saitama suburbs. I was lucky to catch one of the few trains with forward facing seats. At Takasaka station, I made the quick transfer to the city bus, and a little after noon, I got off at a stop a few meters from “Heiwashiryokan Iriguchi” (平和資料館), “The Peace Museum Entrance”. It was a 5-minute walk up a gently sloping road to the Peace Museum of Saitama, located inside Monomiyama Park (物見山公園). After checking out the small museum with its Showa era dioramas, I rode the elevator up the 147.5m tall silver observatory tower, higher than today’s planned hike.

View of Oku-Musashi from the Peace Museum Observatory

View of the Kanto Plain from Mt Monomi

I was excited to get a wide, unobstructed view of the Kanto mountains, no other tall buildings blocking the view. The midday haze had already set in and I had to rely on the detailed panels to help me identify the various peaks; only the pyramid-shaped Mt Buko was easily recognisable. Apparently Mt Fuji and the mountains of Nikko can also be seen when the conditions are right. After exiting the museum, I made my way through the park, along a paved path and up log steps to a flat open space, the top of Mt Monomi (物見山 ものみやま monomiyama), for the second time. Although it’s the highest mountain in the Hiki Hills, a summit marker was nowhere to be found.

Bell Tower at Shoboji

View of Iwadono Kannon Sando from Shoboji

After checking out the view of the Kanto Plain to the east, I headed down the north side and crossed a road, leaving the park behind. I had reached a large parking lot at the edge of the forest. However, before immersing myself in nature, I made my way to the nearby Shoboji Temple (正法寺), also known as Iwadono Kannon (巌殿観音). It was on my return route but I wanted to see it in the sun; thin high-altitude clouds had appeared, announcing an imminent change in weather. At the base of a steep log staircase, I came upon a giant Ginko, completely bare of leaves in this season but certainly an impressive sight in the Autumn.

Entering Ishizaka Forest

Walking the East Ridge Route

My attention was soon caught by a bell tower with a thatch roof, perched at the top of a steep incline with a valley view in the background. After ringing the bell, I admired the view of the “sando“, a main roading leading to the entrance of a temple, running all the way to the base of the hills. I retraced my steps to the parking and followed a sunlit trail through tall pines into Ishizaka Forest (石坂の森). I turned left at a junction onto the East Ridge Route (東の尾根道), heading south along a delightful descending trail; after crossing a stream over a log bridge, I arrived at another parking area. Here, I made a sharp right onto a rougher, climbing path, the Center Ridge route (中央の尾根道), heading back in the opposite direction.

View of the Kanto Plain from Miharashi no Oka

Path leading away from Miharashi no Oka

The path soon leveled and I found myself walking along a ridgeline through mixed forest, mainly consisting of “Konara” and “Kunugi” oaks. After passing the highest point of today’s hike (139m), I reached Miharashi no Oka (見晴らしの丘), an open space with a view on two sides. On the west side, I could see the outline of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains. High-altitude clouds now covered the entire sky, making it hard to make out the fine details, but I could still distinguish the rounded shape of Mt Raiden in the foreground. To the east, I had another view of the featureless Kanto Plain. Since it was 2pm, I sat at a picnic table for a late lunch.

Okuchihibu Mountains from Miharashi no Oka (Photo from Feb 2016)

Mt Yumidate (front left), Mt Buko (right back) & Mt Raiden (right front)

I reflected on how 10 years ago, I had had a much better view on a clearer day. Once finished, I descended a short switchback trail, crossed a road, and headed down a path to Miharashi dai (見晴し台), a slightly less impressive viewpoint on the north side. I then made my way back to the road which I followed for a short while before turning left onto a wide track leading into Shimin no Mori (市民の森). The path was level at first but then descended steeply into a forested valley.

Plum Blossom Tree in Full Bloom

A Hint of Spring in the Hiki Hills

I followed a narrow, twisting past through red pines ending at Iriyama Pond (入山沼). The next section took me along a paved road through a hidden cultivated valley, similar to the Kishi Rice Fields, mostly dormant in the season, but livened up here and there by plum trees in full bloom, a harbinger of Spring. At 3pm, I darted up a slightly overgrown trail on the right side. After a few minutes, I popped out of the thick forest, right next to the bell tower at Shoboji where I had been a couple of hours earlier. I walked over to the top of a long staircase from where I had a bird’s-eye view of the Iwadono Kannon Sando road (巌殿観音参道) extending into the distance.

Shoboji Temple Bell with Iwadono Kannon Sando in the Background

Plum Tree near Shoboji Temple Gate

At the wooden gate at the base of the steps, I passed between two red demons guarding the temple entrance, and then made my way down the “sando“, also dormant in this season, although once again, the occasional plum blossom tree added a little cheer to the surroundings. At one point I spotted something rather unusual, a small playground situated inside the grounds of a shrine. At the end of the “sando“, I turned right onto a larger road, and after a 10-minute walk, arrived at a bus stop. After a short wait, I boarded the bus back to Takasaka station. There, I caught the express train for the one hour ride back to Ikebukuro.

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Mt Yakunimi (319m), Hadano City & Oi Town, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 17, 2026

I’d hiked most of the Soga Hills in January 2018 from Kamioi to Kozu station. Recently I found out about the Fujimizuka Hiking Trail on the Kanagawa Prefecture website. This hike, mainly along country lanes, connects Kamioi with Matsuda station and completes the traverse of the hills. Rather than redo the first part, identical to my 2018 hike, I decided to start from Shibusawa station instead. Looking at my map, I saw I could follow hiking trails and back roads past a mountain with a view of Mt Fuji; a short walk along a prefectural road would then connect me with the main trail. Another view of Fuji awaited me at Fujimizuka near the end of the hike.

Hiking in the Soga Hills 曽我丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu “Fujisan Express” from Shinjuku to Hadano station, and then transfer to the local Odakyu line for the one stop ride to Shibusawa. There, I would catch a local bus and get off at the base of the Shibusawa Hills, a short distance from the trail entrance. The afternoon would be enough for this short hike allowing me to take the mid-morning train. For the return, I’d catch the “Fujisan express” again, but this time from Matsuda station. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, important for getting a good view of Fuji, the temperatures unseasonably warm. I was looking forward to a relaxing hike through the woods and countryside of Kanagawa.

Ascending (left) and Level Trail (right) for Mt Yakunimi

Stairs (left) and Footpath (right) connecting with Mt Takao

It was another blue-sky day, so common in winter in the Tokyo area, as I rode the limited express to Hadano station. Both transfers, first to the local train line and then to the bus line, went quickly and smoothly; shortly after noon, I got off at a stop in the middle of a long slope and headed up a steep road running parallel to the main road, taking me into the Shibusawa Hills (渋沢丘陵). At a bend in the road, I reached a viewpoint of the Tanzawa mountains to the north.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains at the start of the Hike

“Field View point” on the Trail for Mt Zukko

I was surprised by the lack of snow in this season, probably due to the ongoing dry weather. From left to right, I could see Mt Nabewari, Mt To and Mt Oyama, ridges and valleys easily discernable in the clear winter air. I continued up the steep road, now heading south. Since the air was so clear today, I decided to make a detour to a nearby viewpoint along the trail for Mt Zukko. After a short walk on a curving level road between woods and fields, I arrived at “Hatake no Tenbodai” (畑の展望台 meaning “Field Viewpoint”) with a couple of benches and a view of the Western part of the Tanazawa mountain range.

Trail for Mt Yakunimi

Lots of Fallen Trees on the way to Mt Yakunimi

I was pleased to get a view of the remoter peaks of Western Tanzawa, less well-known and harder to access than those of the Eastern half; I could also see the long ridge leading to Mt Mikuni. After a short break, I headed back to the trail for today’s mountain, admiring the first plum blossoms of the season along the way. At 1pm, I turned right, onto a path signposted for the summit; according to the signpost, the road I’d been following up to now also led there, but I preferred to walk on dirt than on asphalt.

Mt Fuji View from the Top of Mt Yakunimi

Mt Fuji and its Winter Snow Cover

I had to walk over, around and even under several fallen tree trunks, adding charm to the otherwise well-maintained path. Beyond a bamboo forest and a series of bamboo steps, I reached the top of Mt Yakunimi (八国見山 やくにみやま yakunimi-yama, meaning “8-country view”). Almost completely in the trees, a gap perfectly placed on the west side allowed for a majestic view of snow-covered Fuji, a secret viewing spot of Japan’s iconic volcano. I sat on one of the bamboo benches for lunch with a view. Shortly after 1h30, I resumed my hike, heading down the west side. Very soon I rejoined the road I’d been on earlier; a little further on, it ended at the top of a newly-built concrete staircase with a wide view to the south.

View South above the Cemetery

View West from near the Cemetery

I was delighted with this unexpected view, the trees having been cleared to make way for a cemetery, a wide grassy expanse near the base of the steps, still mostly free of graves. On the west side, I could see Mt Fuji and the outline of the Hakone mountains; to the south, forested hills stretched all the way to the Shonan coast and Sagami Bay. At the bottom of the steps, I walked a short way along a brand new road before turning left up a shorter concrete staircase; this connected with a footpath that soon joined a country lane heading south.

View of Mt Yakunimi with the Tanzawa Mountains behind

Mt Yakunimi (front left), Mt To (center) & Mt Odake (right)

This part of the hike felt quite adventurous: even though I was walking through fields and woods, the lane I was following was unknown to Google Maps and I had to rely entirely on my hiking app to find my way. Turning around I had a good view of Mt Yakunimi with the Tanzawa mountain range rising in the background. As I rounded a bend with a bamboo grove on my left, I came upon Neo Bandit Base, a campsite in the middle of nowhere with no apparent access, almost as if it were a real bandit hideout. At a fork in the road, I followed the right branch to the top of the campsite, taking me to a viewpoint of the forested hills as they extended southwards.

Country Lane Past Mt Takao

Forested Hills extending South to the Coast

I imagined it’d be a nice place to spend the night, enjoying a view from one’s tent, perched high up on the hillside. I followed the road a little further as it curved around the back of the mountain and soon reached the top of Mt Takao (高尾山 307), a minor mountain lacking a summit marker. It was surrounded by forest so I quickly retraced my steps to the main road. I soon found myself walking through farmland again, with a view of the Soga Hills to the south; along the way, I spotted bunches of white and yellow “suisen“, as well as orange “mikan“, adding colour to the winter landscape. After some descending, I reached a busy road, snaking its way along the base of a valley. After about 20 minutes walking on the sidewalk, I reached a signpost for the Fujimzuka Hiking Trail (富士見塚ハイキングコース) on the right side.

View of the Soga Hills past Mt Takao

Walking through Farmland

I was glad to be walking on a peaceful country lane again, taking me through the Yanagi Village Farm (やまぎ村ファーム). Past a white recycling center, out of place at the edge of the fields, I spotted a signpost for a trail leading into the forest on the left. The leaf-covered path climbed and then dipped into a steep, narrow valley. After crossing a stream over a metal bridge, I turned left, following the water upstream. Past a bamboo grove, I suddenly emerged onto a road. As the 4 o’clock chime sounded, buildings and fields lit golden in the setting sun, I made my way through the shinokubo neighbourhood and soon arrived at Jifuku-ji Temple (地福寺) at the bend of a bypass; beyond, the road climbed a long slope.

Walking through Forest near the End of the Hike

Sunset and Mt Fuji above Matsuda City

I hastened to reach the highest point, the gloom increasing fast shortly before sunset. I passed the entrance of Mishima Shrine (三嶋神社), walking under the overhanging branches of Shinokubo’s chinquapin (篠窪の椎 shinokubo no shii). This species of beech was more than 500 years old and one the 100 famous trees of Kanagawa; its lengthy branches were upheld by a metal frame, creating a natural tunnel over the road, but unfortunately too dark for a good picture.

A Natural Tree Tunnel (photo by Anthony Griffin)

Mt Fuji and its Snowcap (photo by Anthony Griffin)

As the sun was setting behind the Hakone mountains, I reached Fujimi-zuka (富士見塚), marked by a stone monument. From the pass, I had one final view of Mt Fuji of the day, now a grey outline with a fiery, orange background. It was another 30-minute walk down a quiet road to the outskirts of Matsuda city; after passing under the Tomei expressway, I caught a bus for Shin-Matsuda station arriving there around 5pm. After a one hour wait, I boarded the Fuji express for the 70-minute comfortable ride back to Shinjuku.

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Yokoyama no Michi, Tama & Kawasaki Cities, Tokyo & Kanagawa Prefectures, Saturday, January 3, 2026 [Highest Point 168m]

I wanted to do another hike inside Tokyo for the first outing of the year. I found out about the Tama Yokohama no Michi Promenade last spring on a “sakura walk” from Tama Center to Karakida station. I felt this would be a good time to explore this historical road following a west-east ridge through the Tama Hills, between the Musashino and Sagamino Plains, north and south respectively. Along the way, I’d pass several viewpoints, as well as historical sites and nature spots.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Keio Sagamihara Line to Minami-Osawa station, and there catch a bus for the short ride to the west side of Nagaike Park. I would finish at Wakabadai station, 4 stops up the line. It had snowed the previous day, and although today’s weather was supposed to be sunny, I’d need to be careful of ice and mud on the trail. I hoped I’d get some good views of the Kanto mountains, as well as Mt Fuji on my first hike of 2026.

Snow Path (left) Bare Tree (right) at the Start of the Hike

Shadows from a Bridge Rail (left) & Path Rail (right)

It was a cold winter day, spurring me on at a fast pace to warm myself up. At 12h30, I reached a viewpoint inside Nagaike Park (長池公園 168m), also the highest point of today’s walk. Looking west, I could see the higher peaks of the Tanzawa and Oku-chichibu mountains, as well as Mt Mito, Mt Gozen and Mt Kumotori, a dusting of snow on each summit; regrettably a building blocked the view of Mt Fuji. I exited the park and followed a paved road hugging its east side. Past a bridge over a 4-lane road, I spotted a footpath between a guardrail and a wooden fence, next to a warehouse belonging to a shipping company.

Western Section of the Yokoyama no Michi

Karakida Section of the Yokoyama no Michi

A thin layer of snow covered the trail, forcing me to proceed cautiously in the uphill sections. I was now at the Western Edge of the Tama Yokoyama no Michi (多摩よこやまの道西端 164m). Beyond a white tower from a water distribution station, I arrived at a viewpoint of the Tsurumi river headwaters on the southwest side, although I could only see forest, as well as an electric power line in the far distance. I soon set off again, following a dirt trail northwest, red “tsubaki” (camelia) occasionally brightening the evergreen vegetation.

Trail alongside the Tokyo Kokusai Golf Course

View South of the Tanzawa Mountains

After some ups and downs, I reached a flat, straight section covered in fallen leaves with glimpses of the Musashino plain on the north side. A little after 1pm, I found myself walking along a tree-lined promenade with buildings on the left and vegetable fields on the right. After crossing a road for Karakida station, I headed up some steps leading to a dirt path between the white tower of a recycling center and a golf course. Beyond a fence leading to a private farm, I had an unexpected view of the Tanzawa mountains.

Descending into a Snowy Shaded Valley

Icy Path on a Cold Day

Gazing at the bucolic scenery and listening to the cheerful birdsong, it was hard to believe I was still inside Tokyo. At a junction, I turned left and carefully made my way down an icy path into a snowy valley deep in the shade. Alternating sidewalks and footpaths, I contoured the northern side of the Tokyo Kokusai Golf Club, the Yokoyama no Michi alway easy to follow thanks to the frequent wooden signposts. After a short climb through a residential neighbourhood, I reached another viewpoint of the Tanzawa mountains on the right side.

View of Mt Fuji & the Tanzawa mountains

Past the Yellow Houses, the Okutama Mountains

I had a clear view of the whole range with the summit of Mt Fuji rising above the ridgeline north of Mt Hiru. I was glad to get my first view of Japan’s highest mountain so early in the year. I descended through a small park, and after crossing a road, headed up a footpath next to a golf driving range. I soon had a view of the Kanto Mountains, enclosing the city on the west side. A little later, I arrived at Ipponsugi Park (一本杉公園), the halfway point of today’s hike. Since it was 3pm, I sat on a bench facing a pond for a late lunch. I soon moved on, and after leaving the park, made my way down a slope ending at Myooji Temple where I turned left onto a dirt trail leading around and above a cemetery.

Trail Past Myooji Temple

Trail between the Nagayama and Kurokawa Areas

Soon, I was walking with a view of the suburbs to the left, and a wall of vegetation to the right. After making my way down some log steps, I arrived at a bridge over a 4-lane road beyond which I turned right, up a steep, curving road leading to another footpath on the left side. I was now walking through dark evergreen forest, the sun quite low above the horizon. Very soon the paved path turned into a dirt path covered in fallen leaves, the golden sunlight reaching me through the bare branches on the right. Just before 4pm, I reached Mikaeri Pass (見返りの峠) confusingly situated at the top of a small hill with a wide view on the west side.

Trail before Mikaeri Pass

Trail near Mt Suwa

This was by far the best viewpoint of the day, also called the Tama Hills Panoramic Hill (多摩丘陵パノラマの丘). From left to right, I could see the Tanazawa, Oku-Chichibu, Okutama and Oku-Musashi mountains, as well as Mt Fuji. The setting sun bathed the surrounding scenery in golden light although I hope I can one day see this return to this spot on a clear morning. I had to pick up my pace if I wanted to finish before dark. A short up and down led me to the top of Mt Suwa (諏訪ヶ岳 すわがたけ), a minor summit surrounded by trees. I then followed a wide path westwards through mixed forest.

Kawasaki Section of the Yokoyama no Michi

Red Coloured Trail on the Yokoyama no Michi

From this point, the trail became quite hilly, extending the final part of the hike, the surrounding forest coloured red conveying a sense of urgency. Finally, at 4h30, I arrived at a small park marking the eastern edge of the Yokoyama no Michi (多摩よこやまの道東端 141m), just as the sun was setting behind the Tanzawa mountains. I made a last goodbye to Mt Fuji, and then turned right onto a road heading down into Sagamino valley on the south side; after a 20 minute walk through town, I reached Wakabadai station a little before 5pm. There, I caught the Keio line for the half an hour ride back to Shinjuku station.

End of the Hike at the End of the Day

Golden Fuji from the Eastern End of the Yokoyama no Michi

In the end, it took me fours hour and a half to walk the entire length of the Yokohama no Michi, although it’s possible to shorten it if one starts from Karakida station instead. I was impressed by how I was able to walk nearly continuously along footpaths, a rarity so close to the city center. Frequent signposts meant that it was easy to follow, although many of the signs have faded with time. I lacked time to read all the historical explanations (in Japanese) along the way; that would definitely require a full day hike. I passed many other trails along the way; I’d love to return one day and do some more hikes in the area, mainly southwards into Machida city, and also in a different season.

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Shiroyama no Mori (126m), Inagi & Kawasaki Cities, Tokyo & Kanagawa Prefectures, Sunday & Tuesday, December 28 & 30, 2025

I wanted to do my year-end hike inside Tokyo since it’s the one time of the year local lines are mostly empty, as people head to their hometowns for the year-end holidays. The shorter travel times and lower elevations are also better suited to the short, cold days of winter. Finally, I was keen to continue exploring the network of trails south of the Tama river, often overlooked in my quest to scale new peaks.

Path above (left) and behind (right) Myoken-ji

Steps (left) and Susuki (right) on the Shinrinyoku Route

Looking at my map, I picked a station to station hike easily accessible from the city center. I’d ride the Keio Sagamihara line to Inagi station, just 30 minutes from Shinjuku, and first explore the forested, hilly area above Myoken Temple. I’d then head southwest along the Misawa River valley to Kurokawa station. Next, I’d follow the “Forest Bathing” route southeast to Kurihira station. Finally, I’d continue in the same direction along an unnamed ridge path and finish at Satsukidai station on the Odakyu Tama line, also 30 minutes from Shinjuku.

Walking above Shinkoji Park (left) and Town (right)

Path past Kurihira (left) Bamboo Grove before Satsukidai (right)

The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures cold for the season. Although my planned route didn’t include any summits, I hoped to get views of Tokyo, the Kanto Mountains, as well as snow-capped Mt Fuji. I was looking forward to enjoying various “Satoyama” sceneries along the way.

In the end, I decided to break the hike into two parts: I finished at Kurokawa around 3pm on the 28th, and started again from Wakabadai, one station down the line, around 1pm, on the 30th, each section about 3 hours. The weather on the 30th remained sunny but with temperatures warm for the season.

Entrance to Myoken-ji Temple

View of Central Tokyo from Yushi no Satoyama

It was a crisp, cold winter day as I exited Inagi station around 1130am. A short walk brought me to the entrance of the peaceful Myoken-ji temple (妙見寺). After checking out the bell tower, I headed up a steep flight of stone steps to a shrine gate; beyond, a paved road continued uphill through a bamboo grove ending at Myoken shrine. To its right, I found a path ending at a sunny hilltop called Yushi no Satoyama (ゆうしの里山) from where I had a view to the east.

Path for Shiroyama no Mori

View of Mt Fuji from Shiroyama no Mori

I was glad to get a view of central Tokyo so early in the hike. From left to right, I could see Sunshine 60, the Tocho and the Skytree. After admiring the view, I made my way to a nearby open shelter from where I could also see Mt Haruna and Mt Akagi, far away to the north, the highest peaks covered in snow. I followed the hilltop northeast through Shiroyama no Mori (城山の森 126m meaning “the forest of Shiroyama”), the forest hiding the city buildings from view. Past another open shelter, I reached the highest point of today’s hike, and looking to the right, I suddenly spotted Mt Fuji through the bare trees.

Walking through Shiroyama no Mori

Bamboo Grove below Shiroyama no Mori

I was pleased to finally get a good view of the snowy top of Mt Fuji, its base hidden by the Tanzawa mountains; it was also truly unexpected, as this spot is unmarked on my maps. I turned right at the next junction and followed a dirt track along a bamboo grove to the base of the hill. I already felt quite satisfied with this first hour of hiking, having seen a temple, bamboo groves and views of the skyscrapers of Tokyo and Mt Fuji. After passing through some fields, I was back inside a residential neighbourhood. After going under the railway tracks, I turned left, and was now following a pedestrian path running parallel to the Misawa river.

Walking along the Misawa River

View of Wakabadai from Kurokawa Farm

Walking against the sun, I was dazzled by the golden pampas grass, growing on both sides of the river. At 1h30, I reached the Inagi City Chūō Park (稲城中央公園), and shortly after, settled on a stone bench next to a secluded bamboo grove for a lunch break. At 2pm, I resumed my hike. After thirty minutes of walking through fields and residential areas , I arrived at Kasayato Water Park (上谷戸親水公園) in the shade of Kasayato Bridge, spanning the sky. After observing a spinning “suisha” (waterwheel), I followed narrow quiet back lanes to the Kurokawa Farm Village, on a plateau on the south side of the river.

Immersed in Nature on the Shinrinyoku Route

Bench with a view of Shinkoji Town

Turning around, I had a wide view of the river valley, apartment blocks lining the north ridge. I descended the west side and reached Kurokawa station at 3pm. The next day, starting from Keio Wakabadai station, I soon reached the nearby Odakyu Kurokawa station, beyond which was the Kurokawa Youth Outdoor activity center, as well as the start of the “shinrinyoku” (forest bathing) route, part of the Asao walking trails. I followed the pleasant footpath westwards through tall pampas grass waving under blue skies. At the top of some log steps, I turned left at an junction; I was now heading southeast through the suburbs, inside a narrow finger of vegetation, alongside Shinkoji Park (真光寺公園), although its central lawn and lake were hidden by forest.

Elevated Path beyond the Shinkoji Green Space

Entering the Tsurugawadai Ridge Green Space

I was surprised to be enclosed by nature so close to the city center. This section is also known as the Shinkoji Green Space (真光寺緑地) and continues into the Tsurugawa-dai Ridge Green Space (鶴川尾根緑地). At 2pm, I reached a bench with a view at the edge of the forest. Looking west, I could see the Tanzawa mountains with Mt Fuji behind, although less clear then two days ago; stretching south was Shinkoji Town. I made a brief stop for lunch and then continued on my way. After a short stretch of open views, I entered the forest again. The dirt track soon ended at a paved road where I turned left, leaving the ridge and descending into the Katakira river valley, through another agricultural area. At 3pm, I passed through Odakyu Kurihira station and soon reached another ridge trail through a green space on the north side of the valley.

A Trail with a view of the city

Walking through Furusawa Sakai Forest

I was delighted to be once again walking through nature. At 3h30, I passed the Gorida View Park (五力田見晴公園) with a view of the town on the southwest side. At 4pm, I entered Furusawa Sakai (古沢境), the evergreen forest alternating between shade and golden light. At a junction, I turned right and headed down stone steps, bamboo on my right. I turned left upon reaching a road and passed a red shinto gate leading to Kuromyo Shrine (九郎明神社), its grounds being cleaned for the upcoming new year shrine visit. Soon after, I came upon some fields where I turned right onto a road leading to Satsukidai station, arriving around 4h30, just on time to catch the train for the next station, Shin-Yurigaoka, where I caught the express for the short ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Ogura (955m), Koshu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 23, 2025

I wanted to do another hike in Yamanashi that could be done by car. Looking at my hiking map, I found a mountain north of Yamanashi city, nearly halfway between Mt Daibosatsu and Mt Obina. It was a relatively short loop with a view of the South Alps and Mt Fuji from the observation tower from the summit. Known for its skunk cabbage fields in early spring, I hoped to have the trails mostly to myself in this season.

To get to the hike, I’d drive a share car from Kofu station to a parking lot at Tamamiya Zazenso Park. On the way there, I would stop by Soba Maru, last visited 5 years ago, for a pre-hike lunch. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures average for the season. I was looking forward to a pleasant Autumn hike in the mountains of Yamanashi and hoped to get a glimpse of snow-capped Fuji.

Trail between the Skunk Cabbage Fields and the Ridgeline

Some Colours on the Descent

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the Chuo limited express to Kofu city. It was a pleasant drive to Soba Maru, trees lining the roads resplendent in their Autumn colours. At 1230, it was the middle of the lunch rush hour and it took about an hour before I was seated; while waiting, I was able to admire the view of the mountains of Oku-Chichibu, clearly visible at this time of the year. After a satisfying lunch, I quickly set off again, arriving at Tamamiya Zazenso Park (玉宮ざぜん草公園 ) at 2h30, one hour behind schedule.

View towards Mt Konara (right) from Soba Maru

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains from Soba Maru

I headed up the main trail, ignoring the wooden walkways on each side as the Skunk Cabbage fields lay dormant in this season. The trail headed straight up a valley already in the shade; the path was covered in yellow leaves, Autumn nearly over at this elevation. At 3pm, I reached the sunny ridgeline, where I turned right. After ten minutes of climbing through dark cedars, I reached the wooden observation tower at the top of Mt Ogura (小倉山 おぐらやまogura-yama) with a view on the South side.

Trail below the Sunlit Ridgeline

Climbing through Dark Cedars

The sun hung low above the horizon, highlighting the misty valleys between rows of mountains, with the South Alps throning in the background, Mt Kita clearly visible in the center. Leaning over the balcony and looking left, I could see Mt Fuji, although its snowcap wasn’t discernable from this distance and at this time of the day. After this magical view, I retraced my steps and continued straight along the ridge, heading northwards. Under cover of another cedar forest, the trail narrowed and became less distinct.

The Ogura Observation Tower

Misty View of the Yamanashi Mountains

I stepped up the pace, concerned about the late hour. At 4pm, I was once again walking under leafless trees, relieved to be back in the sunlight. At the top of a steep section, interspersed with rocks and lined with roped to indicate the way, I arrived at the minor summit Mt Kamijo (上条山 かみじょうやま kamijo-yama 996m). Although it was completely in the trees, the summit marker was golden in the final sun rays of the day. After a short break, I headed down the north side, descending carefully the steep and slippery, leaf-covered slope.

The South Alps with Mt Kita in the Middle

Stream near the End of the Hike

The trail became hard to pick out, forcing me to rely on my GPS and pink strips attached to tree branches. At 4h30, I turned left at Kamijo Pass (上条峠), and headed down a wide valley; here and there, some Autumn leaves remained, adding colour to the early evening darkness. As the valley deepened, the trail gradually became more defined. I soon arrived at a stream where I turned left, now on the last section of the loop. I turned right just before a solar farm, and past Funamiya Shrine (船宮神社), crossed a bridge over the stream. Just beyond was the road, a short walk from the parking which I reached a little after 5pm, just as the last traces of light faded from above the Kofu basin to the south.

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Mt Kuro (1793m) & Mt Hafu (1674m), Fuefuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 16, 2025

I had climbed these mountains in December 2013 from the Kawaguchiko side. I wanted to hike them again but from the Fuefuki side; I also wanted to try out our Japanwilds Kuro-dake Map for Avenza. Finally, I was interested in riding the free shuttle bus between the Ashigawa Agricultural Products Market “Ogossoya” and the Suzuran-gunseichi Parking Lot; it started running last year to reduce traffic due to the nearby Fujiyama Twin Terrace. However, the bus I had used on my previous trip to the area from Isawa Onsen had been discontinued, so I ended up renting a car from Kofu city instead and skipping the shuttle entirely.

Hiking inside the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

From the parking lot, I could take the most direct route up Mt Kuro, and after checking out the view from the nearby observation point, follow the ridge westwards past Mt Hafu and then down to Shindo Pass, also the location of the Fujiyama Twin Terrace. From there, I would again take the most direct route back to the parking. If time allowed, I could drop by Kamiku no Yu onsen on the way back. The weather was supposed to be sunny but near freezing at higher elevations. I hoped to get some good views of Mt Fuji and also catch the last of the Autumn colours.

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This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer

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Fallen Leaves (left) and Beeches (right) at the Start of the Hike

Trail near the Top (left) Autumn Colours at the End of the Hike (right)

It was a blue sky day as I drove southwards from Kofu station towards the Misaka Mountains (御坂山地). After following a narrow road along the Ashi river valley, I arrived at the Lily of the Valley Flower Colony Parking Lot (すずらん群生地駐車場) just after 11h30. I had to use a smaller parking for hikers since the main one, a little further down the road, was reserved for people using the Twin Terrace Bus. A little after noon, I set off along a faint path starting from the parking lot. After passing a second parking for hikers and crossing a small bridge over a dry riverbed, I arrived at an electric fence beyond which was the start of a well-defined walking path.

Last Rays of Sun near the Summit of Mt Kuro

Trail near Mt Hafu

I found myself walking among tall beeches, their tops already bare of leaves, drawing attention to their white trunks. After recrossing the dry riverbed, I reached a paved road where I turned right and soon passed the gated entrance for the road for Fujiyama Twin Terrace, closed to private cars. A little further, I arrived at a sign for today’s mountain, pointing to a faint trail heading up the left side of the dry riverbed. Here, I was glad I could see my position on the Japanwilds digital map since the trail was at times hard to follow. At 1pm, I turned right onto a ridge, the path merging with a signposted trail leading to the summit.

Sun Rays Filtering through the clouds

View of Kawaguchiko Lake from below Mt Hafu

I made good time up the steep trail allowing me to stay warm in the frigid temperatures. I was above 1000 meters and Autumn was already well over, the white beeches providing most of the scenery; a sign indicating told me I was inside a 100 famous forest of Yamanashi. The trail gradually became less steep, giving me a chance to catch my breath without having to take a break. After a couple of turns, I suddenly came upon the summit of Mt Kuro (黒岳 くろだけ kuro-dake meaning “Mt Dark”), the highest peak of the Misaka mountains and a 300 famous mountain of Japan. It was completely in the trees so I dropped my pack and headed for the observation point a few meters to the right, hoping to get a glimpse of Mt Fuji.

First Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Autumn Leaves Catching the Sun from the First Terrace

I was surprised to see that thick clouds had rolled in during my ascent, completely hiding Mt Fuji from view. According to the other hikers, I had missed Japan’s iconic volcano by only a few minutes. Looking down, I still had a view of Kawaguchiko lake extending east to west along the base of the mountains. On the right side, I could see Mt Ou and Mt Setto, two other main peaks of the Misaka mountains. I decided to skip my planned lunch break and immediately head to the next summit, in hope that the clouds would have cleared by then. I retraced by steps and headed down a steep path on the west side; beyond Suzuran Pass (すずらん峠), the path became level and easy to walk.

In the Distance, Mt Shakushi and Mt Mishotai

View of Kawaguchi City and its Lake from the 2nd Terrace

This was the most peaceful and pleasant part of the hike, surrounded by pines masking all sounds and views. I soon passed the summit of Mt Hafu (破風山 はふうざん hafu-zan), only noticeable by its summit marker doubling as a signpost. A short way down the west side was another viewpoint of the Fuji Five Lake area. It was past 2pm so I settled down for a late lunch. Although the clouds were still in, sun rays filtering through the gaps created a magical scenery. At 2h30 I set off again, and soon after passing another viewpoint on the left side, I came upon the first terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace at Shindo Pass (新道峠). Opened in July 2021, it was accessible via a short bus ride from the Suzuran Gunseichi parking (a fee is charged each way), and thus was filled with about a dozen sightseers.

Second Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Mt Fuji on a Clear Day (Dec 2013 Photo)

I was stunned by the view of the golden larches covering the foothills, enhanced by the late afternoon sun rays, although Fuji was still stubbornly in the clouds. I made my way to the first terrace, just a few meters away; it was deserted of people, tall pines slightly in the way of the perfect view. It was nearly 3pm, a couple of hours before dark, so I gave up on seeing Japan’s highest mountain and headed down via a paved road, moving to the side once to let the bus pass. Fifteen minutes later, I turned left onto the trail from Suzuran Pass; after descending through dark cedars, I reached a small road the second parking for hikers.

Autumn Leaves near the End of the Hike

A multicolour Japanese Maple Tree

During this part, I finally got a close up view of some beautiful Autumn leaves. A little after 3h30, I arrived back at my car, the last one left in parking area. I drove a short distance to Kamiku-mo-yu, which I reached just before sunset, and after a refreshing hot bath, got back behind the wheel for the return trip to Kofu. Although I experienced a “shy Fuji” today, I was glad I could do a hike in the Fuji area, somewhat of a challenge nowadays due to the high number of overseas visitors. I’d like to return one day and try another hike, but this time starting from Fujiyama Twinterrace.

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