Tag: Onsen

Mt Mitake (929m) & Mt Hinode, (902m), Ome City & Hinode Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, June 22, 2025


I had hiked Mt Hinode one year ago but wanted to return for several reasons. First, the recently introduced “green cars” on the Chuo and Ome lines, would make the ride there and back more comfortable; next, the Mitake ropeway would allow me to start hiking from a higher elevation, essential in this season; finally, I could wash off the sweat at Tsuru Tsuru onsen conveniently located near the end of the trail. This time I’d include the summit of Mt Mitake and descend via the shorter Mt Hinode Hiking Trail.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Near the Start (left) Near the End (right) of the Ropeway

To get there, I’d ride the JR Ome line from Shinjuku station to Ome station, and change to the JR Okutama line for the 15-minute ride to Mitake station. There, I’d catch a bus for the short trip to the base of the Mitake Ropeway. For the return, I’d ride the bus from Tsuru Tsuru Onsen to Musashi-Itsukaichi station and take the JR Itsukaichi line to Tachikawa. There, I’d transfer to a “green car” on the JR Chuo line for the thirty-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Bench at Fuji-mine Park (left) Steps up Mt Mitake (left)

The weather was supposed to be sunny but quite hot. I decided to leave late in the morning and start hiking in the early afternoon to avoid the time when the sun is highest in the sky; I’d also reach the onsen in the late afternoon, a good time for a relaxing bath and perhaps an early dinner afterwards. I hoped the high temperatures, as well as the Tokyo prefectural elections held the same day, would reduce the number of people who usually visit this popular Tokyo hiking spot.

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Kanto Plain from Mitake Shrine

Mt Hinode from Mitakesan Station

It was a shock to the system to step out of the air-conditioned train into thirty-something degrees outside Mitake station. Surrounded by the mountains of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park it was hard to believe how hot it was but I hoped the temperature would be more bearable six hundred meters higher up, at the top of the ropeway. The five-minute walk between the bus stop and Takimoto station (滝本駅), the ropeway base station, was particularly tough, a steep paved road directly under the sun.

Riding the Mitake Ropeway

View East from the Top of the Mitake Ropeway

Thankfully few people boarded the ropeway. I got a good spot at the back of the car allowing me to enjoy the view as the ropeway gradually gained altitude. It felt less hot at the top station but I knew that the temperature would still continue to rise. At 2pm, I set off through Fuji-mine Park (富士根園地), a green oasis above the ropeway, mostly deserted on this hot day. Half an hour later, I reached the Mitake Visitor Center (都御岳ビジターセンター) where I examined the exhibits and chatted with the friendly staff, glad to be in a cool space for a short while. After setting off again, now on the Kanto Fureai no Michi, I soon reached the turnoff for the first mountain of the day.

Mt Hinode from the Entrance of Fuji-mine Park

View East from the Entrance of Fuji-mine Park

After making my way up a steep slope and then through a street lined with souvenir shops, I reached a stone “torii” and the first of the several flights of steps leading to the top of this sacred mountain. I questioned the wisdom of going up on the hottest day of the year so far, but it had been 11 years since my last visit and I wanted to refresh my memory of this popular sightseeing spot. At 3pm, I arrived at the red and gold Mitake Shrine (御岳神社), where I had a view of the Okutama mountains on the south side. Slightly behind the main shrine building was the summit marker of Mt Mitake (御岳山 みたけさん mitake-san), a Kanto 100 famous mountain. I was so focused on climbing in the heat that I missed the demons carved into the stone steps.

View South from Mitake Shrine

Open Shelter at the Top of Mt Hinode

I was surprised to have the summit to myself as most people seemed to turn back at the shrine. The small auxiliary shrine on this side of the flat summit area seemed to be undergoing some renovation work, blue tarp somewhat spoiling the mystical shrine scenery. It was my third visit, and I had always thought it was completely in the trees, so I was glad to discover that a gap between the cedars allowed for a view of a conical-shaped peak on the west side (possibly Mt Nabewari). I descended back to the junction with the Kanto Fureai no Michi and headed in the direction of Mt Hinode.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from Mt Hinode

View South from Kuromo Rock

I saw very few people during the next section of the hike, although I did count one cat and one domestic goat. At the top of some log steps I emerged from the shade of the forest onto the sunny summit of Mt Hinode (日の出山 ひのでやま hinode-yama), my fourth time on this Tokyo 100 famous mountain. The view was better than last year, mostly blue sky in all directions. Since it was past 4pm, I retreated to the benches on the east side, out of the sun at this time of the day, for a late lunch break. By now I was starting to feel the effect of the heat so I soon continued my hike. I made my way down some steep log steps, and then turned left onto the Mt Hinode Hiking Trail (日の出山ハイキングコース), a gently descending path on the south side of the mountain.

Mitake Shrine (photo from 2014)

Mitake Shrine (photo from 2014)

I had the final view of the day from Kuromo Rock (クロモ岩) from where I could see a section of the Shirataki Hiking Trail I had taken last June. After passing the junction with the New Mt Hinode Hiking Trail, which mostly follows a paved road, the trail reentered the forest. After a thirty minute descent in semi-darkness through a dense cedar forest, I was relieved to reach a paved road and be back in the daylight; by now the sun was low enough so that the valley was entirely in the shade. At 5h30, I arrived at Tsuru Tsuru onsen, where I made sure to take a nice cold bath, a necessity after hiking on such a hot day. After a light meal and a cold beer, I boarded the bus waiting outside the hot spring facility for the short trip to the train station.

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Mt Teppogi (1291m) & Mt Takazasu (1174m), Oyama Town & Yamanakako Village, Shizuoka & Yamanashi Prefectures, Saturday, June 7, 2025

I found out about this mountain in one of my guidebooks. I had hiked Mt Ishiwari and Mt Mikuni, north and south of it respectively, but never the section in-between. Looking at my map, I saw that I could traverse from Myojin Pass in Shizuoka to Yamanaka lake in Yamanashi. For the first part, I’d follow my 2019 hike but I’d skip Mt Mikuni, entirely in the trees, by following a road to Mikuni Pass. From there, I would head north, passing 3 peaks, before heading down into the Fuji Five Lake Area; Once I reached the end of the trail, I’d follow another road and end the hike at Ishiwarinoyu hot spring.

Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

Start of the Hike (left) Road for Mikuni Pass (right)

Trail for Mt Teppogi (left) Trail for Mt Takazasu (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the first “Mt Fuji” limited express from Shinjuku to Suruga-Oyama, and there catch a Fujikyu seasonal bus for Myojin Pass. For the return, Google Maps suggested going through Kawaguchiko, but I knew from past experience that the Fuji excursion limited express trains would be fully booked far in advance. Instead, I decided to use a taxi to get to Asahigaoka where I could catch a bus for Gotemba station and ride the last “Mt Fuji” limited express back to Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to clear in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon, in tune with my early start and early finish plan. I was looking forward to a hike far from Tokyo and hoped I’d get a view of Mt Fuji before it vanished in the clouds.

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View of Hakone from near Myojin Pass

Trail between Myojin Pass and Mt Mikuni

The sun was already high in the sky at 7am as the limited express made its way through Tokyo. After getting off at Suruga-Oyama station at 8am, I hurried to the bus stop but still found myself standing for the 3o-minute ride to the pass, as many people had arrived just before me on the local train. Surprisingly, I had the trail mostly to myself after starting out from Myojin Pass (明神峠 900m) at 9am, since most people first headed to nearby Mt Yubune (I had done the same 6 years ago).

Road leading to Mikuni Pass

View of the Tanzawa Mountains

I soon had a view on Mt Ashitaka and the Hakone mountains through the trees on the left side. It was already quite warm but fortunately most of this section was in the tree shade. At 9h30, I reached a paved road beyond which the trail for Mt Mikuni rose steeply through the forest. A signpost with a small metal figure of Kintaro perched on top told me I was at the halfway point between the Myojin and Mikuni passes. I turned right onto the paved road, now entering Kanagawa prefecture.

Looking ahead at Mt Teppogi

Looking back at Mt Mikuni

Almost immediately, I got a view of the Tanzawa mountains on the right side, my first time to see them from this angle. Further along, the view was lost behind trees; I picked up the pace to get this boring section quickly behind me, unexpectedly busy with cars and motorcycles. Half an hour later, I reached a huge parking lot at Mikuni Pass (三国峠 1164m), completely filled with cars; apparently this is a popular spot for hiking and escaping the early summer heat. Here, I left the road and turned right onto a trail, now entering Yamanashi prefecture as well as the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.

First View of Mt Fuji above Mikuni Pass

The Climbing Season Starts Soon

After a few minutes, I had my first Fuji view of the day, as I left the forest for a grassy area that continued all the way up the mountainside. Mt Fuji was mostly bare of snow with only a few white streaks around the summit crater, the climbing season less than a month away. I headed up the dirt path as it went straight up, getting steeper and steeper, passing several people on their way down. The grassy surroundings, due to past volcanic eruptions, offered plenty of wonderful views of the Fuji Five Lake Area. Less than half an hour after leaving Mikuni Pass, I reached the summit of Mt Teppogi (鉄砲木ノ頭 てっぽうぎのあたま teppougi-n0-atama also known as Mt Myojin 明神山), marked by a stone shrine; instead of “Mt” the Japanese name uses “head”, an apt description of the wide and slight rounded summit area.

Heading straight up Mt Teppogi

View of Mt Fuji and Yamanaka Lake

The panoramic view was stunning, one of the best I had seen in a while; I was glad I had woken up early today to travel so far. The high-altitude clouds that had appeared one hour ago were getting blown away by high-altitude winds, creating fantastic patterns in the sky above Fuji. On the south side was Mt Mikuni, covered in green forest; looking west, I could see Mt Fuji and Yamanaka Lake with the white peaks of the South Alps visible in the distance; to the north was Mt Ishiwari, with behind it, Mt Mitsutoge and Mt Mishotai, left and right respectively. It was too early for a lunch break, only 11am, so after enjoying the view, I set off again.

View from the Summit of Mt Teppogi

A Popular Spot to See Mt Fuji

The path headed straight down, through thick forest covering the east side. I moved quickly with no views to distract me, and half an hour later, passed Kiridoshi Pass (切通峠 1050m), after which the path started to climb gently. The trees thinned, allowing some green grass and blue sky to gradually reappear. I was now walking along the Tokai Nature Trail (東海自然歩道), which I had last followed just 6 months ago. As the noon chime started to play through the valley, I arrived at Mt Takazasu (高指山 たかざすやま takazasu-yama). The view on the west side, beyond dried stalks of pampas grass (“susuki“), was similar to the previous one, although with more clouds. Since it was noon, I sat on the shaded side of a wooden platform for an early lunch break.

Mt Ishiwari (Center), Mitsutoge (back left) & Mt Mishotai (back right)

Clouds Spreading through the Sky

After setting off again, I found myself walking through more thick forest, along a mostly level path; although I was deprived of views in all directions, I was glad to be in shade at the hottest time of the day. Very soon, I reached the third and final summit of the day, Fujimisaki-daira (富士岬平 1170m); this time, the “Mt” was replaced by “plateau”, indicating its relatively small prominence along the ridgeline. By now, puffs of cloud were covering the highest part of Mt Fuji, giving it kind of retro hairstyle. After a short break, I headed down a path on west side, leaving behind the Tokai Nature Trail.

Mid-morning Blue Skies

Grass Reappearing below Mt Takazasu

The path was steep and eroded making this descent the toughest part of today’s hike. Fortunately, I soon reached a road leading through an area of mostly deserted villas. I always enjoy walking past holiday homes, trying to imagine what it must be like to spend a summer weekend there. I eventually reached a main road where I turned left. After a 15-minute walk, I reached the entrance to the hot spring and was disappointed to find out that it was closed. Apparently they were doing some temporary renovations, which wasn’t the case when I first planned the hike a few weeks ago. I was confident I could find some alternative and marched on under the hot sun to the Yamanakako Hirano tourist office.

View from Mt Takazasu

The Clouds have Reappeared

I was delighted when the lady from the tourist office told me there was a a hot spring hotel just down the street that accepted day trippers. Although it didn’t have an outdoor bath, I was happy to be able to wash off the sweat and change into some fresh clothes. At 2pm, I had the bath to myself, with a view of the ridge I had just hiked on the west side. One hour later, a taxi dropped me off at the Asahigaoka bus terminal. Although, the bus for Gotemba showed up late, typical for the Fuji Five Lake area, I still arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare, and a little before 5h30, I boarded the limited express for the comfortable ride back to Shinjuku.

Trail between Mt Takazasu and Fujimisaki-daira

Mt Fuji in the Clouds

In total this hike took about 5 hours, with little ascending and descending, although including travel time, it was nearly a 14-hour outing. This was mainly because I took a longer way back to avoid the masses of tourists heading back from Kawaguchiko, and also because of my preference for limited express trains and post-hike hot spring baths. Catching the seasonal bus to Myojin Pass was also a great way to get to the area, although it requires a very early departure (in my case, 6am); in this case I was rewarded with great views that I may not have gotten with a later departure. Hopefully, I can redo this hike, or a variant, in a different season when the Ishiwariyu hot spring is open.

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Mt Amagoi (1068m), Numata City, Gunma Prefecture, Monday, May 5, 2025

I found out about this mountain, situated between Mt Hotaka and Mt Akagi, while contributing to the Japanwilds hiking map for Tanbara Highland. Apparently most hikers go up and down the same route from the parking on the south side, but looking online, I saw it was possible to descend on the west side and end at Kawaba Den-en Plaza, one of the most famous roadside stations in Japan. Although the hike seemed somewhat short, the panoramic view from the summit motivated me to travel to a faraway and yet unexplored area.

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Start of the Hike (left) Entering the Forest (right)

Walking under the New Green (right) End of the Hike (right)

To get there, I’d ride the Joetsu Shinkansen to Jomon Kogen, and from there, ride a bus to a stop located one hour on foot from the trail entrance. For the return, I could catch a bus from the roadside station for Numata station, and there, ride the local Joetsu line to Takasaki station where I could catch a shinkansen for the short ride back to Tokyo. If time allowed, I could take a hot bath at Kawaba Den-en Raku Raku onsen before heading back. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm, typical weather for May. I was looking forward to a relaxing Golden Week Hike and getting some new views.

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Dirt Road at the Start of the Hike

Heading to the Sky

It was already quite warm as I got off the bus in the middle of the countryside. Since it was 11am, I started almost right away, up a winding road through fields and then forest. Half an hour later, I passed Ishiwari-zakura (石割桜), a massive cherry blossom tree I had hoped to catch in full bloom, but was already well into green leaves stage. After passing a junction where a steep road led down to a parking lot on the left side, I arrived at the official start of today’s hike, a dirt road hugging a deforested mountain side.

Mt Akagi’s Western Flank

A Pleasant Start to the Hike

I was excited to get a sweeping view at such an early stage: to the left was Mt Akagi, it’s long western flank clearly visible from this angle; on the right side, I could see Mt Komochi, surrounded by Mt Haruna and Mt Okono in the back, bring back good memories from hikes from over ten years ago. After a pleasant panoramic along a mostly level road, reminiscent of alpine hikes, I re-entered the forest around 1230, passing between a couple of towering red pines.

Mt Komochi (center), Mt Haruna (back left) & Mt Okono (back right)

Looking back at Mt Haruna before Entering the Forest

I was stunned by the profusion of the new green of Spring in all directions; at one point, I witnessed a flurry of white blossoms blowing across the path, coming from some unseen mountain cherry tree. After a short switchback section, I reached a flat section along a saddle on the mountain. Although I was now completely in the forest, I enjoyed the peaceful surroundings, few hikers venturing on this not so famous peak.

A Level Trail through a Peaceful Forest

The Flat Top of Mt Mitsumine with the the Peaks of Joshin’Etsu in the Back

After a short climb, I arrived at a flat space, mostly free of vegetation on the southwest side, the top of Mt Amagoi (雨乞山 あまごいやま amagoi-yama), a fairly common mountain name in Japan, meaning “begging for rain”, something I definitely didn’t want to do, today being a perfect blue-sky day. Mt Akagi took up most of the south side; southwest was Mt Komochi again; I now had a new view on the west side where I could see the flat top of Mt Mitsumine, with behind, the highest peaks of the Joshin’Etsukogen National Park, most of them still in their winter clothes. Mitsumine is a popular paragliding spot and I happened to see a paraglider drift through the sky. It was exactly 1pm, so I sat on a bench and enjoyed lunch with a view.

The Tanigawa Range from the Top of Mt Amagoi

Mt Mitsumine, a Popular Paragliding Spot

After lunch, I tried to match all the Joshin’Etsu mountains using the summit information board, since only the Tanigawa range on the very right was instantly recognisable ; apparently on clear winter days, one can also see the Chichibu Mountains, the South Alps and Yatsugatake. Although trees blocked the views in other directions, I was able to spot the still snowy top of Mt Hodaka through some bare branches on the north side, a preview of my upcoming descent. A little before 2pm, I set off again, down a steep path on the west side.

Sideways View of Mt Akagi from the Top of Mt Amagoi

Heading down the Western Side of Mt Amagoi

Here, the trail was buried under dead leaves and would have been hard to follow, if it weren’t for rope attached to nearby trees. I soon emerged from the trees and was greeted with a spectacular view on the northwest side. To my right, I had a better view of the snowy summit of Mt Hotaka, framed by mountain cherry trees. On the west side, I could once again see Mt Mitsumine and Mt Tanigawa. As I descended this valley surrounded by snow-capped mountains, I almost felt like I was walking in the Swiss Alps.

Emerging from the Trees on the Northwest Side

Mt Mitsumine (left) & Mt Tanigawa (right)

I was following a narrow ridge with tall red pines on my left and a deforested area on my right, allowing for plenty of views along the descent. I soon turned left, onto a path between two rows of fir trees, the end of the scenic descent. After a short while, I entered a mixed forest, and after a short section where the only trace of a path was again a helpful rope hung between trees, I reached a winding forest road heading down through tall cedars.

View of the Tanigawa Range while Descending Mt Amagoi

Mt Hotaka and Mountain Sakura

A little before 3pm, I reached the valley bottom next to a small stream. From this point, the level trail headed west in a straight line through forest. Very soon, I reached a wildlife net and a paved road where I turned left, heading south, through orchards and fields. As I approached a busy road, I had some good side views of today’s mountain, on the left side.

Red Pines on the Left and Views on the Right

Walking along the Valley Bottom

During the entire descent, I saw no other hikers, as most people seem to visit this mountain by car. At 3h30, I reached Rakuraku onsen, meaning “comfortably”; one hour later, after a quiet hot soak, as most people seemed to prefer to spend their time at the neighbouring roadside station, I hopped on the nearly empty bus for Numata station. I was grateful to have found this hike, and to have been able to visit in this season; it is certainly one of the hidden gems of Gunma.

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Mt Katsuro (1123m), Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday, April 27, 2025

Ever since climbing Mt Gassan, I had been hoping to do another hike along the Aizu-Kinugawa line, deep inside the Nikko National Park but well off the tourist trail. Looking through my guidebook, I found a suitable mountain, its trail entrance near a train station. Although the summit was in the trees and mostly up and down the same way, the path seemed to be well-maintained with no tricky sections; along the way, it was possible to get views of 3 different lakes.

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Initially, I had planned to go in the Autumn since apparently the leaves are quite spectacular, but online reports of leeches in that season made me switch to Spring. While researching the itinerary, I was delighted to find out that Tobu railways was running an extra return train in the afternoons during Golden week, the “Skytree Train”; this gave me an extra hour to enjoy my time in a destination far away from Tokyo.

Hiking in the Nikko National Park 日光国立公園

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Start of the Hike (left) a Well-maintained Trail (right)

A Mix of Flat Sections (left) and Log Staircases (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu limited express “Revaty” from Kita-senju directly to Yunishigawa-onsen, famous for its snow house festival in the winter. For the return, I decided to ride the Skytree train only as far as Shimo-imaichi, and then switch to the Revaty coming from Nikko, since looking online, I noticed that the latter had more comfortable seats.

Spring Green Lower down (left) Bare Branches Higher up (right)

Below the Summit Ridge (left) Heading up to the Ridge (right)

The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny all day, with slightly cool temperatures, perfectly normal considering I’d be nearly 150 km north of Tokyo. If I finished on schedule, I could relax in a hot spring bath at Yunosato onsen on the 2nd floor of the roadside station connected to the train station. I was looking forward to revisiting the mountains north or Kinugawa after a 3 year interval, and curious to see whether the new green of Spring had finally arrived.

Spring Green at the Start of the Hike

Ridgeline Leading to the Summit Area

As I stepped off the train, I was surrounded by darkness, since Yunishigawa-onsen station (湯西川温泉駅) is located inside a tunnel running under today’s mountain. After riding an elevator to the surface, I got ready inside the Yunishigawa-onsen Roadside station, and at 12h30, started up the hiking trail at the far side of the parking area. After half an hour of climbing via a series of log staircases, I reached an electric pylon with views on both sides.

View South of Mt Takahara and Umijiri Bridge

Flat Section Half Way Up

I was grateful to get a good view so early in the hike: looking south, I could see Umijiri Bridge spanning Ojika River, and in the back, Mt Keicho, one of the summits of Mt Takahara; on the north side, was Yunishikawa Lake, with Mt Takase rising behind it; in the far distance was Mt Arakai. I soon continue along a well-defined path, passing an open shelter on the left side. I was surrounded by the bright green of new Spring, but as I gradually gained altitude, I reentered an area of bare branches, creating fantastical shapes against the blue sky. Branches swaying in the light breeze created the only sounds, as birds had not yet returned from their migratory trips.

Walking under Leaning Trees

Walking along a Well-Defined Path

Here and there, I glimpsed distant snowy peaks through the branches, and was glad I had chosen to visit in this season. Although it was officially the start of the Golden Week, I saw only one other hiker on the mountain, perhaps because most people prefer to visit in May, when the whole mountain is covered in new green. At a bend on the east side, I glimpsed the white ski runs of Hunter Mountain, open till the end of Golden Week. I was now following a nearly level trail heading westwards through silent forest. Shortly after reaching the summit ridge, a view on the south side opened up above some green larches.

View South of the Tochigi Mountains

Nearly at the Summit

I took a moment to enjoy the view of the mountains of Tochigi, the only recognisable peak being Mt Gassan on the right side. One of the interesting aspects of this hike is the sight the of the wooden figures of the 7 Lucky Gods (“shichifukujin” 七福神) placed along the trail. I now passed Daikokuten (大黒天), the God of Wealth, one of the more popular ones. A few minutes later, just before 2pm, I reached an open shelter at the top of Mt Katsuro (葛老山 かつろうやま katsurou-yama), a 100 famous mountain of tochigi. Through the branches on the west side, I could see Mt Tashiro; on the north side, I had a double lake view, Yunishigawa lake on the left side, and Ikari lake on the right side; to the northeast, I had a good view of Mt Hiruga. I sat next to the statue of Jurojin (寿老人), the God of Longevity, for a late lunch.

Log Steps above the First Shelter

Mt Takase from near the Electric Pylon

Afterwards, I decided to explore the ridge extending southwest as I was ahead of schedule. I was rewarded with glimpses of Yashio Lake and Mt Nyoho, one of the Oku-Nikko peaks. A little after 2h30, I started to head down the same way, spotting new details such as Magnolia flowers (“kobushi“) and mountain cherry trees (“yama-zakura“). Shortly after 3pm, I arrived back at the viewpoint at the electric pylon. Here, I turned left, for an alternative descent suggested by my guidebook. After heading down a short way, I reached another pylon, where I had a view of the foothills of Mt Takahara on the east side.

Mountain Sakura and Mt Takase

Yunishi River near Yunishigawa Station

Directly ahead on the north side, I had the best view of the day, Mt Takase and Yunishigawa Lake. The path became a little rough and I encountered the first and only tricky section of the day, a short but steep descent into a gully, thankfully roped for safety. After ascending the other side, I popped out onto a road next to Nishikawa-danchi, a group of houses on the mountain side. I then followed a road to its junction with a main road, where I turned right. After crossing a tunnel, I arrived back at the roadside station at 4pm, roughly one hour before my return train. I had a leisurely hot soak, practically by myself, and shortly after 5pm, I waited on the dark platform for the Skytree train to appear out of the darkness.

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Odoriko Trail (highest point 719m), Izu City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Saturday, April 19, 2025

I wanted to visit the Izu Peninsula again since it had been a year and a half since my last hike there. I decided to explore the other half of the Odoriko trail (踊子山道), south of Amagi Pass, hoping that in this season I could finally catch the new green of Spring. Looking at my map, I saw that, although there were no summits along the way, the trail included several interesting sights: the Old Amagi tunnel, Namesawa Gorge, Tarosugi Cedar and Joren Falls.

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Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the shinkansen from Tokyo to Mishima, and there, change to the Izuhakone railway Sunzu line. At Shuzenji, I’d board a Tokai bus for Kawazu, and get off at Nikai waterfall, just past Amagi pass. For the return, I could catch a bus for Shuzenji from Joren Falls. If time allowed, I could get off at Yugashima onsen and drop by Kajika no Yu, a public bathhouse. The weather was supposed to be sunny but warm for the season, and I hoped I could keep cool walking under the tree leaves and next to rushing water.

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Taro Cedar (left) Joren Falls (right)

Upper (left) & Lower (right) Namesawa Gorge

The start of the hike was the same as when I climbed Mt Noborio a couple of years ago. After checking out Nikai Waterfall (二階滝), the amount of water seemingly the same as before, I continued past the entrance of the Kanten forest road (寒天林道), and after about 30 minutes of mostly level walking along a paved road, I reached the entrance to the Old Amagi Tunnel (旧天城トンネル), just past 1130. Built in 1905, and nearly half a kilometer long, it’s one of the 100 famous road sections in Japan.

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Fortunately, the tunnel was equipped with some lighting (not always the case) and I didn’t need to use my headlight, which I had brought just in case. Still, it was dark enough to feel a little spooky, on top of the steady drip-drip of water from the ceiling. Once out of the tunnel, I continued along a gravel road, now heading slightly downhill. Everywhere I looked, the new green was in full effect, with even some mountain sakura in full bloom dotting the opposite ridge. A little past noon, I arrived at Suishhochi (水生地), a place I had been through before on my way down from Hatcho Pond.

Walking between Kanten Forest Road and the Old Amagi Tunnel

Entrance of the Old Amagi Tunnel

Since today was a leisurely hike and I had ample time till my return bus, I decided to make a short round trip to Namako rock (なまこ岩). Although the rock itself was nothing special, I enjoyed the walk up and down the narrow valley, alongside a rushing stream, surrounded by moss-covered rocks and mitsumata flowers (ミツマタ), slightly past their prime. At 1pm, I reached the Suishochi parking lot and headed down some steps leading from the road to a trail next to a river. I had good views of the fast-flowing water on the left side, bright green wasabi fields covering the opposite bank. After a short while, I crossed the river over a metal bridge. The trail then headed into the forest and hugged the steeped forested mountain ridge. At 1h30, I came to a wide-open space called Yuyu-no-mori (遊々の森).

Walking through the Old Amagi Tunnel

Walking between the Old Amagi Tunnel and Suishochi

Since there was a bench in the shade of a towering cedar tree in one corner, I decided to take a break for lunch. Opposite was a rusty old train on display, a reminder of a time when a railway ran through the valley; behind me, I could hear the rushing water of the river; on my right, I could see the white bell-shaped flowers of the “Dodan Tsutsuji” (ドウダンツツジ) bobbing in the breeze. At 2pm, I set off again. I soon recrossed the river, and was once again walking along its right bank, arguably its best side, occasionally stopping to admire small waterfalls, slowing the rapid flow of water. As I had expected it remained pleasantly cool, despite temperatures being in the high twenties.

View of the River from the First Crossing

Following the Right Bank of the River

This was probably the best part of the today’s hike. The trail was well-maintained and easy to follow, thanks to the numerous and easy to spot “Odoriko Trail” signposts, as well as the detailed information boards. I was surprised to see few other hikers, probably because it was still early in the season. At 2h30, after crossing another bridge, I arrived at the start of Namesawa Gorge (滑沢渓谷). Here I made another round-trip up a hiking trail on the left side. It criss crossed a road a few times, but mostly followed a tributary stream. Here I spotted someone flying a drone over the gorge, most likely getting some spectacular footage.

Small Bridge along the Odoriko Trail

Third Bridge Crossing over the River

By this time of the day, the valley, oriented north-south, was in the shade. However, as I made my way up the mountain side, some sunlight finally filtered over the east ridge, lighting up the frothing water in a spectacular manner. After a while the trail merged with a forest road, and soon after, I reached my objective, Tarosugi (太郎杉), a giant cedar, 450 years old and 53m high. It’s also one of the 100 famous trees of Japan (3rd highest in the list, the highest being a tree in Akita, 58m). It stood to the right of the trail, in a small clearing at the top of a log staircase.

Wasabi Fields between Namesawa Gorge and Tarosugi

Looking up at Tarosugi

I was totally stunned by the view of this ancient giant, the effect amplified by looking up at it from below, as well as no other tree in the vicinity coming close to its majestic height. I had already visited the giant cedars in Yakushima, but there, every tree towers above you and it’s hard to grasp how tall they really are. On the way up, I had been wondering if it would be worth it, and I was definitely very happy I had made the effort. Although the tree was surrounded by a fence, it was possible to walk around it, and thus I could check out this marvel of nature from every angle. Once done, I legged it back to the entrance of the gorge, as I had now fallen slightly behind schedule. A little past 3pm, I reached the roadside station Amagi-goe (道の駅 天城越え) where I crossed the road.

Rapids along Namesawa Gorge

One of the Few Mountain Views of the Hike

The final part of the hike followed a path up and down through forest before reaching a paved road at the top of a wooden staircase, a calming stroll after an exciting moment. The road led me through a somber cedar forest and then through a residential area. The elevation had dropped from over 700m around the pass, to about 300m, and for the first time today, I felt quite hot under the afternoon sun. I arrived back at the main road just before 4pm, and after recrossing it, headed down a long flight of steps. At the base of the steps, past yet another wasabi field, I arrived at the last highlight of the day, Joren Falls (浄蓮の滝), 25 meters high and the largest waterfall on Mt Amagi, as well as one of the 100 famous waterfalls of Japan.

Wooden Staircase near the End of the Hike

Joren Falls Surrounded by the New Spring Green

I admired the thundering water, as it crashed into a blue-green pool, surrounded by bright green leaves, and then made my way back up the steps. It was a short bus ride, followed by a short walk to Kajika-no-yu (河鹿の湯) in Yume-ga-shima Onsen (島温泉郷) , and although there was no outside bath, I had the indoor pool mostly to myself. I caught another bus closer to the public bath and at 5h30, I was back at Shuzenji station. There, I boarded the anime-themed train for the half an hour ride back to Mishima, from where it was less than an hour by shinkansen to Tokyo station.

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Mt Ogiri (766m), Higashi-chichibu & Chichibu Cities, Saitama Prefecture, Sunday, March 23, 2025

I wanted to do another hike in Higashi-Chichibu, as my previous hike there a few months ago had reminded me of what a great place it was for hiking. Looking at my map, I saw I could traverse from eastern to central Chichibu, passing by a peak climbed some years ago. The middle part of my planned hike followed the Kanto Fureai no Michi, as well as the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail, meaning the trail would be easy to follow. It had snowed heavily a few days before, but looking online, it seemed that most of the snow had already melted in the subsequent warm weather.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu-Tojo express train from Ikebukuro to Ogawamachi, and from there, board the Higashi-chichibu Village line bus for the half an hour trip to Kaiya in Higashi-Chichibu. For the return, I could catch a bus from Sadamine in Chichibu itself for the thirty-minute ride to Seibu-Chichibu station, where I could get a hot bath at Matsuri-no-yu and taste some local nihonshu from their “sake server” before catching the Laview Limited Express for Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm for the season and so I was looking forward to an early spring hike in the Chichibu mountains north of Tokyo.

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Trail past the Summit (left) After Sadamine Pass (right)

Hiking the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail

外秩父七峰縦走ハイキングコース

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi　関東ふれあいの道

View of Higashi-Chichibu from above Kaiya

Looking back at the Road for Kayunita Pass

The first part of the hike took me from the base of the valley to the open shelter at the Kayunita Pass (粥仁田峠), where I turned left, onto the Fureai no Michi the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse. I started out at 11am and arrived at the pass just before 1230 during which time I saw only one other hiker, wearing a traditional Japanese straw hat or “amigasa”. He was walking behind me and occasionally picked up pieces of trash, so I assumed he was a member of the “Kaiya Genki Club”, the name shown on the many new-looking signposts I had seen along the way.

These Fields will Turn Green in the Summer

View East Between Kayunita Pass and Mt Ogiri

This first part was entirely along deserted country lanes through open fields, meaning I had wide sweeping views of the Higashi-Chichibu valley every time I stopped and turned around. On the southeast side, I could see Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira, climbed in November last year; on the northeast side was Mt Kannokura. Most of the surrounding vegetation was still in winter mode which felt a bit strange considering that the temperature was above 20°. On the same day I saw cherry blossom trees that had already reached full bloom and patches of leftover snow, sometimes even at the same spot.

Walking the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail

View of Chichibu Highland Farm from Mt Ogiri

The next part from the Kayunita pass to the summit, up a proper hiking trail, took half an hour. It was mostly in the forest although I had a view of Higashi-Chichibu through a gap in the trees mid-way. The guy in the “amigasa” caught up with me at the summit but it turned out that he was just another hiker. The view was a bit hazy and better appreciated with the naked eye than in photos. Straight ahead, northwards, I could see Chichibu Highland Farm, Mt Misuzu and the Nagatoro Alps. To the west was the outline of Mt Ryokami and the Oku-Chichibu mountains: and on the south side was the easily recognisable pyramid summit of Mt Buko. Mt Ogiri (大霧山 おおぎりやま meaning big fog) is a 100 famous mountain of Kanto, hard to believe since I had the summit to myself (the straw hat guy left after a short break).

Level Section Past the Summit

View East of Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira

I sat on one of the benches for a half hour lunch break. During that time, using the detailed “View Guide” (展望案内), I tried to identify many of the mountains that could be seen on a day with perfect visibility. At 1h30, I set off again, and reached the Old Sadamine Pass (旧定峰峠) less than an hour later. This up and down section was also mostly in the trees, except for a view of Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira beyond a field on the left side. The ground was dry and free of mud despite the heavy snow just a few days ago, allowing me to walk at a good pace. I was also glad to be in the shade of the trees, shielding me from the sun on an unseasonably warm spring day.

Leftover Snow on a Warm Spring Day

Approaching the Sadamine Pass

At the Old Sadamine Pass, a crossway surrounded by tall cedars, I turned right, heading down the valley towards Sadamine, leaving the Fureai no Michi and 7 Peaks Traverse which both continued straight along the ridgeline. A signboard recounted the Legend of Daidarabotchi, including the origin of Mt Ogiri:


Long ago, there was a giant named Daidabo who lived in the Musashi Plain. One day, on his way to Mt. Haguro, he straddled the Chichibu Mountains, sitting on Sadamine Pass, and putting his straw hat on top of Mt Kasa. He stretched out his legs toward the nearby Yokogawa Rive and, placing his bowl of cooked rice gruel on Kayunita Pass, enjoyed his lunch. After he finished eating, he placed his chopsticks (made from two logs) into the ground and stood up, accidentally leaving a large rock behind that had been supporting his lower back. He then took a sip of water from the Arakawa River and blew it out—this is said to have formed Mt. Ōgiri. To this day, the footprints left behind by the giant remain in the form of wetlands and marshes in the upper reaches of the Yokogawa River and in the mountains around Shiraiwa.

End of the Hike in Sadamine on the Chichibu Side

View Towards Maruyama from Sadamine

The last part of the hike was a straightforward descent through forest. At 3pm, I popped back onto a road near Sadamine. It was another 30 minute walk back to the road and a bus stop. Since I was ahead of schedule, rather than waiting under the afternoon sun, I decided to visit the nearby Shimabuji Temple (四萬部寺), #1 on the Kannon Temple Circuit. By 4h30, I was on the bus for Seibu-Chichibu station. Surprisingly the food court and souvenir shops were not crowded, possibly because March is still out of season for the area. Shortly after 6pm, I was comfortably seated on the Laview Limited express for the 90 minute ride back to Ikebukuro.

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Mt Raiden (418m), Tokigawa Town, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, January 18, 2025

I was looking for a short, low-altitude, and relatively easy hike near Tokyo, with some good views, as well as a hot spring bath at the end, to take full advantage of the clear skies of the cold winter days. Poring over my map, I spotted a peak in the Tokigawa area, overlooked up to now, but which checked all the boxes. The summit was supposedly in the trees, but the shoulder beneath it was described online as a “Scenic ridge”. As an added bonus, I could check out the Sanba Gorge on the Toki river before heading to the nearby Toki no Yu hot spring.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d rode a Tobu-Tojo express train from Ikebukuro directly to Ogawamachi, and there, hop on a local bus for the short ride to Suzume Dam. After a hot spring bath at the end of the hike, I’d walk a short way to the Seseragi Bus center. There, I’d catch a bus for Musashi-Ranzan station, and then board a Tobu line train for the trip back to Ikebukuro. The weather was supposed to be cold and sunny all day, and I was looking forward to a relaxing hike in the hilly countryside of Oku-Musashi.

Hiking in Oku-Musashi 奥武蔵

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Suzume River and Dam

Trail past the Summit of Mt Raiden

It was another splendid winter day as I rode the express train to Ogawamachi, arriving there around 11am. After a short ride on a diminutive bus filled to capacity, I got off at the Suzume Dam entrance (雀ダム入口) in Hikage, actually a 10-minute walk to the dam itself. Along the way, I passed Hikage Shrine, its “shide” (zigzag-shaped paper streamers) swaying gently in the breeze. At the top of a slope, I reached the parking of a park, descriptively name the Suzume river dam erosion control park (雀川ダム砂防公園). A short climb up a steep staircase brought me to the top of the dam wall.

Sunny Hiking on a Winter Day

Following the Panoramic Ridgeline

Surprisingly, the water behind the dam was half frozen, sparkling white under the morning sun; yellow Japanese Pampas grass (“susuki“) in the foreground completed the scenery. In the far distance beyond the top of the dam, I could see the skyscrapers of Tokyo. I followed the road into the forest, and past a bend, reached a signpost marking the trail entrance on the right, shortly after noon.

View Southeast of Tokigawa Town

View East of Mt Doyama

It was a pleasant climb up a gentle slope through a mixed forest, the warm sunlight filtering through the leafless trees. Less than an hour later, I arrived at the small shrine marking the summit of Mt Raiden (雷電山 らいでんやま raiden-yama meaning thunder and lightning). This peak might hold the record for the most summit markers: I counted five different ones. It was completely in the trees, so after a short break, I headed down a trail on the east side.

View South of Mt Yumidate

Trail for Mt Doyama

I felt relieved that the trail was easy to walk and well-maintained, just what I had been hoping for. I saw no other hikers so I was also able to enjoy it in near complete silence in this season, before the return of the birds and insects. After a couple of turns, I reached the scenic ridge, although all I could see were the trees on both sides. Suddenly, at the top of a gentle slope and just before a steep descent, a view opened up on the right side.

Trail past Mt Doyama

Road near the End of the Hike

I was delighted to finally get a view, especially on such a beautiful day. Looking southeast, I could see Tokigawa Town, and beyond, the Kanto plain with the skyscrapers of central Tokyo in the distance. On the south side was Mt Yumidate, and below on the east side, the next part of the ridge. Since it was 1h30, I sat on a tree root at the side of the trail and had lunch with a view. Once done, I set off again, ready to tackle the steep section head.

Sanba Gorge on the Toki River

Looking back at Mt Doyama

This was the trickiest section of the hike, dead leaves making it especially slippery. I made good use of the attached rope, and once past it, the trail was mostly level. Thirty minutes later, I passed the minor peak of Mt Doyama 堂山 (どうやま 250m), and there, turned left down a pretty trail through green ferns. At 2h30, I exited the forest and reached a road along the Toki river which I followed to the entrance of Sanba Gorge (山波渓谷). I was lucky to catch the last rays of sun on the cascading, rushing water. After exploring the rocky riverbed for a while, I headed to nearby Toki no Yu at. After a relaxing bath, I walked to the bus center where I boarded another diminutive bus for the short ride to Musashi-Renzan station.

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Mt Hijiri (380m), Mt Takatori (556m) & Mt Kobo (235m), Isehara & Hadano Cities, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 4, 2025

Like for the last outing of 2024, I needed a straightforward hike close to Tokyo to ensure a smooth start to the new year. I decided to head to the Tanzawa foothills, notorious for its leeches in the warmer months, but pest-free at this time of the year. I had already walked from the top of the Oyama cable car to Mt Takatori, as well as from Mt Kobo to Tsurumaki Onsen. This time, I’d explore the southern ridgeline between Mt Takatori and Mt Kobo. I knew I could get a good view of Mt Fuji past Mt Kobo, and also finish the hike at Manyu no Yu, two reasons for making this the first hike of 2025.

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Hiking in the Tanzawa Mountains 　丹沢山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the local Odakyu line to Isehara station, and then board a local bus for a stop near a city park, a short distance from the trail Entrance. For the return, I could walk from the hot spring to Hadano station, and there, board the Odakyu Limited Express for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon, putting a question mark on my new year rendezvous with Mt Fuji. Still, I was looking forward to exploring new trails in a familiar area.

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Steps for Mt To (left) Road for Mt Hijiri (right)

Leaving Mt Hijiri (left) Steps up Mt Takatori (right)

It felt quite cold as I stepped off the bus in the midst of a residential neighbourhood of Isehara city, a little before 10am. Thankfully, the sun was high enough to warm me up while I made my way to Tonoyama Park (塔の山公園), a wooded area surrounding a small mountain. After a short climb up a wide path, I reached some benches from where I already had a view of the flat coastal area reaching to Shonan Bay. After a late breakfast I set off at 1030, and soon after, reached the top of Mt To (塔ノ山 とうのやま tonoyama 202m, meaning “Mt Tower”), from where I had a view of summit of Mt Ooyama on the north side.

Trail past Mt Nenbutsu (left) Trail for Zenba Pass (right)

Steps past Mt Gongen (left) Steps past Mt Sengen (right)

I continued along the ridgeline, heading down through leafless trees, and soon arrived at a road on the north side of the mountain. I turned right, heading south, past the main park entrance, then turned left, following a sign for Hokokuji Temple, and shortly after, came upon a signpost for today’s next mountain. After a few more turns along back roads, I reached the Mt Hijiri trail entrance (聖峰登山口), another paved road but this one closed to vehicles. After passing through a wildlife gate, I continued straight, ignoring the shortcut on the left side, and a little before noon, reached the top of Mt Hijiri (聖峰 ひじりみね hijiri-mine meaning “sacred peak”), also the site of a small Buddhist temple.

View East from Hijiri-mine of the Miura and Boso Peninsulas

View South from Hijiri-mine of Shonan Bay and Shonan-daira

I was delighted to have such a wide view on my first hike of the year. Looking north, I could see the skyscrapers of Yokohama and central Tokyo; eastwards, I could make out the low rounded mountains of the Miura and Boso peninsulas; to the south was the level-topped Shonan-daira with Shonan Bay in the background. While I was admiring the view, a pickup truck pulled up, and a man went to open the temple building, called Hijiri-mine Fudoson (聖峰不動尊), giving myself, and two other people who happened to be there, a chance to peer at the Buddhist altar inside; we even got to touch a small snake statue (2025 is the year of the snake); finally, we each received a paper stamped with its “goshuin“, a red seal proving one’s visit to the place. After carefully placing it inside my pack, I set off again, along a level trail through tall cedars, and soon reached a series of log steps where the ridgeline rose steeply.

Steps Leading to Mt Takatori

View South from below Mt Takatori

I broke a sweat for the first time of the day, only pausing briefly to take in a view that had appeared through a gap in the trees. Looking south, I could see the ridge I’d be following on the next part of the hike; curving northwards was the ridge I’d just ascended, green cedars crowning the top of Mt Hijiri. I reached a junction where the two ridges merged; I turned right, and after a little more climbing, reached the top of Mt Takatori (高取山 たかとりやま takatori-yama), also the site of an NTT relay tower. It was surrounded by trees except on the north side, where Mt Oyama’s pyramidal summit fit snuggly between two tree trunks. I retraced my steps to the junction and continued along the south ridge.

View towards Mt Hijiri and its “green crown”

Framed View of Mt Oyama from Mt Takatori

I was surprised by how steep and rocky the trail suddenly became, forcing me to slow my pace. I was relieved when the trail soon became more or less level again, and one hour after leaving Mt Takatori, I arrived at Mt Nenbutsu (念仏山 357m) where there was bench and a view on the south side. The name is a Buddhist term meaning visualizing a Buddha. By now, the clouds had covered the southern half of the sky forcing me to imagine most of the view as well. Since it was nearly 2pm, I had a late lunch break before continuing my way.

Trail between Mt Nenbutsu and Mt Kobo

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from the Fureai no Michi Junction

This was probably the nicest part of the hike, an easy to follow and slightly descending trail through an evergreen forest. At 2h30, I reached Zenba Pass (善場峠), and a little further, I emerged onto a road with a view of the Tanzawa mountains to the north, seemingly still free of snow. I crossed the road and headed up a trail on the other side, now inside Koboyama Park (弘法山公園) and also on the Kanto Fureai no Michi. After a short climb, I reached the top of Mt Kobo (弘法山 こうぼうやま koubou-yama), named after Kobo-daishi who is said to have trained in this place (he is also connected to Mt Mitsumine). Since my last visit in April 2016, a viewing platform had been erected on the east side. Like from Mt Hijiri, I had a view of the Shonan coastline, the Miura Peninsula and Shona-daira, but it looked quite different under a cloudy afternoon sky.

Final Steps before the Top of Mt Kobo

Viewing Platform on the East Side of Mt Kobo

I admired the constantly changing patchwork of light and dark patches in the landscape below. On the south side, the bell tower sitting directly in the sun’s path lit golden. I now followed Babamichi road (馬場道) meaning “riding ground”, indeed wide enough for riding a horse, to the next summit, Mt Gongen (権現山 ごんげんやま 243m), a flat, grassy area with an observation tower on the east side. From its top, I hoped to finally have a glimpse of Mt Fuji, but those hopes were dashed by the thick, dark clouds massed on the south side. A ray of sunlight managed to squeeze through, illuminating the urban sprawl of Hadano City, providing the proverbial silver lining. On the east side, I could look down on the Soga Hills, a range of low hills stretching from Matsuda town to Kozu station on the Shonan Coast.

Patches of Light and Dark from Mt Kobo

Shonan Coast and Shonan-daira from Mt Kobo

I was surprised to see a few snowflakes fall gently and thought perhaps a snowstorm was on its way; fortunately, there was no follow-up, bits of blue sky still appearing overhead. At 3h30, I headed down steep steps on the south side, leaving the Fureai no Michi as it headed east to connect with my last year’s hike to Mt Takatori. After crossing a road, I passed by Mt Sengen (浅間山 せんげんやま  196m). It was more of a shoulder that a summit but what it lacked in prominence was made up by the prominence of its beautiful wood-carved summit marker. On my last visit, the scenery was white from the cherry blossom trees covering the “shoulder”; today it was bathed in yellow from the late afternoon sun.

View of the Soga Hills from Mt Gongen

View from Mt Gongen of Mt Hadano under a Ray of Sun

The final descent of the day was surprisingly pleasant: a switchback trail delightfully easy on tired knees, late afternoon sun shining through evergreen trees, and no one but me on the mountain. Just before 4pm, I reached the trail entrance and a busy road where I turned left. On Kobo bridge across the Kaname River, I had one last look at Mt Kobo, firmly under blue skies now, before heading to the nearby Man-no-yu Hot Spring. I reflected on how most of today’s mountains names are common mountain names in Japan and how unusual it was to find all along one ridgeline. After a satisfying hot spring soak, I walked the final 15 minutes to Hadano station, where I caught the Romance Car limited express for the one hour trip back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Takara (374m), Mt Hizure (382m), Mt Hachioka (460m), Mine (423m) & Mt Kongo (420m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Sunday, December 29, 2025

For the final outing of 2024, I was looking for a hike close to Tokyo, something straightforward to ensure I could end the year safely. I also wanted to finish at a hot spring, the cold months of winter being the best time to indulge in one of my favourite activities. A few weeks ago, I found out about the Hizure Alps, and I thought it might be the perfect time to explore this up and down route along four minor peaks south of Sagami lake; since the hiking time was just over 3 hours, I could extend it with a round-trip to a 5th peak on the south side.

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Hiking the Hizure Alps 日連アルプス

I would ride the Chuo line to Fujino station, and from there, walk to the trail entrance on the east side of the “Alps”. I would finish at a trail entrance on the west side, where I could catch a bus for Yamanami Onsen. After a hot bath, I could take the bus in the opposite direction, back to Fujino station. I knew that the Chuo line had recently added green cars so I was hoping to use one on the return. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, usual for this time of the year, and I was looking forward to an enjoyable last hike of 2024.

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Hike in the Shade (left) Hiking in the Sun (right)

Late Afternoon sun near Mine (left) and Mt Kongon (right)

It was a beautiful sunny winter day as I stepped off the Chuo line at Fujino station. After getting ready, I made my way down to Hizure Ohashi Bridge. While crossing the Sagami river, I could already see the Hizure Alps on the other side. Although the nearest entrance was right up the road, I turned left past a supermarket, and followed back lanes eastwards till I reached the Hizure Alps Trailhead (日連アルプス登山口) shortly before noon. On the way, I passed a charming little shrine with red banners flapping in the wind.

Sagami River from Hizure Ohashi Bridge

View North on the way to the Trailhead

I patiently followed the trail as it hugged the mountain side instead of climbing right away. Just as it reached the eastern end, it suddenly made a right turn and headed up at a steep angle. After hauling myself up, the trail soon regained a more reasonable angle and was in the sun again. At 1230, I arrived at a picnic table on the summit of Mt Takara (宝山(たからやま takara-yama meaning treasure). Framed between 2 trees on the south side was a view of Mt Jinba. I continued on my way, and soon after, reached another picnic table at the top of Mt Hizure (日連山 ひづれやま hizure-yama); it was completely in the trees so I continued without a break.

Walking in the Sun Past Mt Hizure

Mt Omuro (left) & the Doshi Mountains (right) on the way to Mt Hachioka

The trail was mostly level with some slight ups and downs, mostly in the sun thanks to the bare trees, and mostly free of people thanks to the Japanese year-end holidays. At 1pm, I reached a third bench at a fork in the trail. I went left, leaving the Alps momentarily to head along a southern spur. This change of direction also exposed me to strong winds blowing from the west. I soon arrived at an electric pylon with an open space on the west side. I gazed at the pyramidal summit of Mt Omuro for a short while before being chased away by the wind. After a short slippery climb over dead leaves, I reached the top of Mt Hachioka (鉢岡山はちおかやま hachioka-yama), one of the 15 famous mountains of Fujino town, and also the site of a TV antenna. Despite the lack of view, it was sunny and quiet, so I settled down on a log for a lunch break. Once done, I retraced my steps to the Alps.

Windy Section of the Trail on the Way to Mt Hachioka

Viewpoint at the Top of Mine

The next section was probably the nicest part of the entire hike, heading southwest into the afternoon winter sun, the surrounding vegetation reflecting its soft light. It was only 2pm, but I seemed to be the last person left on the mountain. At one point, I had a view on the south side of Mt Sekiro and Mt Hachioka, side by side. A little before 2h30, I turned right at another fork, this time following a spur northwards, and a few minutes later, arrived at the top of Mine (峯 みね). I had a stunning view of Uenohara and the surrounding mountains on the west side: from left to right, I could see Mt Ogi, Mt Gangaharasuri, Mt Gongen, Mt Mito and Mt Jimba.

Mt Ogi (right), Mt Gangaharasuri (center) & Mt Gongen (right) from Mine

Mt Gongen (left), Mt Mito (center) & Mt Jinba (right) from Mine

I took my time taking in the view, trying to spot the smaller peaks I had hiked in the area such as Mt Yae, Mt Furo and Mt Yogai. The wind had pushed in some clouds from the west, testing my patience as various areas alternated between sun and shade. Once satisfied, I left my pack and trotted further down the ridge to the nearby Mt Yasaka (八坂山 やさかやま 420m), in the forest and thus less famous. After collecting my pack, I returned to the junction and continued to the final peak of the day only a short distance away. Mt Kongo (金剛山 こんごうざん kongo-zan), named after a Buddhist term meaning “something indestructible”, was the site of a small shrine surrounded by cedars.

View of the Uenohara Area from the the Top of Mine

Heading to Mt Kongo

A couple of picnic tables in the shade made it seem like the ideal place for a break on a warm day. However, it was already past 3pm, so I started down a steep path on the south side. No rain for the past few weeks meant the trail was dusty and slippery and I made ample use of the attached rope to keep my balance. Half an hour later, I popped onto a road at the Hizure Alps Entrance (日連アルプス入口) and a few minutes later, caught a bus for Yamanami Onsen. After a quick but restorative hot bath, I hopped back on the bus for the short ride to Fujino station. There I boarded the Chuo line green car for the first time (free of charge till the Spring) for the one hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Hizure Alps Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Happu (626m) & Mt Omae (653m), Minano Town & Chichibu City, Saitama Prefecture, Sunday, December 22, 2024

I had hiked Mt Happu about a year ago but wanted to return to explore some more trails on this up and down ridge, also known as the Minano Alps. Its relatively easy access and low elevation made it the perfect place for an outing during the cold, short days at the end of December. Finally, I was eager to try out our Japanwilds Happu-san Hiking Map, published in March 2024, by making sure to download the free map in Avenza before heading out.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride a bus from Minano station and get off on the north side, just past Mangan no Yu. I’d follow the Kanto Fureai no Michi to the summit, then continue to Fudatachi Pass, and from there, follow the Edo Old Pilgrimage Trail down the south side. At the base of the mountain, it was a one-hour walk through the countryside to Seoto no Yu. After a hot bath, I could use their free shuttle bus to get back to Minano station.

Hiking the Minano Alps 皆野アルプス

Hiking in Chichibu 秩父

If time allowed and the weather was clear, I’d do a round-trip to one of the viewpoints along the ridge beyond Fudatachi Pass; I could also do another round-trip to Temple #33 on the Kannon Temple Circuit, about ten minutes on foot from the hot spring at the end of the hike. The weather was supposed to be sunny but cold for the season. I was looking forward to exploring new trails on a well-trodden mountain.

Get a map of the Mt Happu hike

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Trail before Saru Rock (left) Trail between Mt Happu & Fudatachi Pass (right)

It was a beautiful, sunny day as I rode the Laview Limited Express from Ikebukuro. After transferring to the local Chichibu line in Yokote, I got off at Minano station around 10am. The sun had mischievously vanished behind thick clouds rolling in from the surrounding mountains; I checked the updated forecast for the day, and it seemed the sun would return in the early afternoon. I walked to the nearby bus stop and also noticed that the departure time had been pushed back slightly since last year, meaning I had to wait a little longer out in the cold.

Walking along Nyokin Ridge (left) Walking the Old Pilgrimage Road (right)

I felt a little warmer after getting off the heated bus at Futto Iriguchi (風戸入口). I was the sole passenger and, considering the gloomy weather conditions, I wondered if I might be the only person on the mountain today. At 11am, I started up the Kanto Fureai no Michi, behind an “Onsen Stand“; this is like a petrol station, but instead of petrol, people pay a small fee to fill plastic containers with hot spring water for home use; while I was getting ready a couple cars pulled up, so it seemed a more popular activity than hiking on a cold day. After barely a few minutes, the trail ended at the road bend, which I followed up and through a village. I opened the Avenza app on my smartphone and loaded the Happu-san Hiking map, a blue dot tracking my progress along a green line showing the trail.

Start of the Trail Near Futto

Looking up, I was delighted to see patches of blue in the sky, a hopeful sign for the rest of the day. I passed an ancient “kura“, or storehouse, encircled by vegetation, slender bamboo on one side and evergreen trees on the other, the bright green contrasting with the deep blue sky; gusts of wind rustled through the leaves, contributing to the this enchanting sight, as well as pushing the remaining clouds further away. At 1130, I reached an open shelter with a view of Mt Hodo to the north. Here, the hiking trail resumed, clearly indicated by the familiar wooden Kanto Fureai no Michi (関東ふれあいの道) signposts. At the top of some log steps, I entered the forest.

View North from the Summit of Mt Happu

I was surprised to see a carpet of golden leaves covering the path ahead and the nearby forest floor. Looking left, I spotted a tall, leafless ginko with a small shrine at its foot: what a magnificent sight it must have been earlier in the month. Autumn was still hanging on in Tokyo but here in the mountains winter had arrived. After a short climb through the forest, I arrived at the Kasato junction (another reading of “Futto”) and turned right along the main ridgeline of the Minano Alps, now following last year’s hike, but in reverse. At noon, I arrived at Saru-iwa (猿岩 meaning “monkey rock”), a huge yellow-coloured rock protruding dramatically from the narrow ridge.

View of the Chichibu Basin from Nyokin Ridge

I was glad to see it properly this time as I had somehow missed it on my last visit, possibly because it was hidden by the foliage which had now fallen; it was also clearly labeled on the Japanwilds Hiking Map, so I was sure to see it, foliage or not. Apparently, the rock resembles the face of a monkey looking up, but before I had time to turn my own face up to confirm this, a big group suddenly arrived from the other direction, and I quickly departed (the face can be discerned in the slideshow picture at the end of this blog post). Shortly after, I arrived at the top of Mt Happu (破風山 はっぷさん happu-san), my third time to stand on the top.

Pine Tree and Mt Buko below the Top of Mt Omae

The breathtaking view of the Chichibu basin and the Oku-Chichibu mountains on the south side was dulled by the lingering, low grey clouds, while the more muted view on the north side was nearly clear of clouds. As more people arrived, I set off without a break, down the steeper trail on the east side. At 1230, I reached Fudatachi Pass, earlier than expected, so I pushed ahead along the ridge, feeling optimistic as the weather was slowly but surely improving. After some easy walking through the forest, now off the Kanto Fureai no michi, I reached Nyokin Ridge.

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains from the Musashi Observatory

From this point, I found myself scrambling over some rocky sections, chains attached for safety; I also had to navigate a narrow ledge with drops on both sides, lined with a rope to prevent any mishaps. I was surprised how quickly I had to change my walking style from carefree rambling to a cautious advance. I still made good time and soon reached the Musashi Viewpoint, on top of a prominent rock with a couple of twisted pine trees, like two hairs on a bald head. By now, the clouds on the south had mostly retreated, with most of the basin bathed in sunlight.

View North of the Nagatoro Alps from Musashi Observatory

The view had considerably improved in the space of one hour, although the triangular peak of Mt Buko was still the only easily recognizable mountain. Blue skies continued to rule on the north side, and I could see Mt Hodo, with the Nagatoro Alps behind, and even further behind were the Hachioji Hills (no relation to Hachioji city), beyond a narrow neck of the Kanto Plain. I decided to continue a little further, and after a short climb, arrived at Mt Omae (大前山 おおまえやま oomae-yama), also the location of a small statue. It was surrounded by trees but a few meters away, on the south side, was a ledge with a view.

Fallen Tree along the Old Pilgrimage Road

I kept my distance from the edge as the mountain side dropped away steeply, offering a remarkable bird’s eye view of the wrinkled terrain far below. Since it was past 1pm, I found a tree root that could double as a seat and settled down for lunch with a view. Looking to my right, I could see Mt Tengu, the highest peak of the Minano Alps: it looked deceptively close but I knew from previous experience that the next valley would take time and energy, the ridge really starting to deserve its Alps nickname, and the views wouldn’t be worth it.

Fallen Leaves and Afternoon Sun on the Old Pilgrimage Road

I made my way back at a swift pace, taking care when traversing Nyoho ridge, arriving back at the crossroads at Fudatachi Pass at 2pm; there, I turned right onto a narrow but well-defined trail. I was now following signs for Fudasho #33 Kikusui-ji Temple (札所33番 菊水時), along the Edo Old Pilgrimage road (江戸巡礼古道), heading eastwards and hugging the mountainside. Judging from my lunch spot perch, I expected a steep gradient but so far I was enjoying a gentle, almost level descent. I was making good time, except for some maneuvering around a couple of fallen trees; on the other hand, the fallen leaves, rather than being a nuisance, shone brightly under the sun, as the sky was back to its morning blueness.

Watch a Video of the Mt Happu Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

The path abruptly ended at a road, which I followed for a short while before rejoining the trail on the right side. At 3pm, I popped onto another road, leading me to a temple and a main road at the base of the mountain. Following the signs for Temple #33, as well as Google Maps since I was now off the Japanwilds Hiking Map, I turned right and followed back lanes past the “Michi no Eki” Ryusei Kaikan, till I found myself beside the Akahira river. The sun had already sunk below the rim of the Chichibu Basin, and so I had to save my visit to Temple #33 for another time. I reached Seoto no Yu just before 4pm, my 2nd time to this charming hot spring. At 5pm, I was the only person to board the free shuttle, the last of the day, and less than a hour later, I was at Seibu-Chichibu station, sampling some local sake from their convenient self-serving sake machine (“sake server”) while waiting to board the Laview Limited Express for the comfortable ride back to Ikebukuro.

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike