Hiking Around Tokyo

I wanted to see some autumn colours, and also do a more challenging hike than the previous week. I chose a pair of minor peaks in the Nakanojo area, last visited a year and a half ago, not mentioned in my guidebook, nor shown on my hiking map. I knew about them thanks to a hiking pamphlet I had picked up during my stay at Shima Onsen in 2019. Although it wasn’t a long hike, it started from the valley bottom and seemed to go high enough to satisfy both my conditions. After riding the shinkansen to Takasaki, and then the Agatsuma line to Nakanojo station, I would catch the bus for Shima Onsen to the start of the trail. If I finished early enough, I could get the bus connecting with the Kusatsu limited express, direct for Ueno on the return; otherwise, I would use the same route as in the morning. I was a little concerned about the weather forecast: sunny in the morning but cloudy in the afternoon. I was looking forward to a peaceful hike on a quiet mountain and seeing the first autumn leaves of the season.

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View north towards the Joshin-Etsu Mountain Range

View of Mt Juni, Mt Komochi and Mt Akagi

It was a sunny day with few clouds as I got off the bus around 1030. After getting ready, I found the trail entrance behind Komaiwa village, and started hiking from 11am; according to the locals, I was 3rd person of the day to head up. I followed a gently sloping forest road through the cedars, before reaching a stone “torii” (shinto gate) and the start of a steep slope half an hour later.

First Autumn Colours

I got my wish for a workout as I followed the switchback trail up the mountain side through mixed forest. The leaves hadn’t changed yet this low down, but would probably look spectacular in a couple of weeks. With relief, I reached the top of the long climb just before noon. The trail then curved around the mountain, becoming faint at times, so that the final approach was along a ridge on the north side, buffeted by a cold wind.

Directly opposite, Mt Suisho and Mt Buno

Bird’s-eye view from the Top of Mt Sekison

I spotted the first autumn colours of the day on a bright red “momiji” (Japanese maple), to the right of the trail, as I followed the narrow ridgeline, now heading west. Very soon, I was walking under oranges and yellows, and after scrambling up a short steep bit, I emerged onto the top of Mt Sekison (石尊山 せきそんさん sekison-san), just before 12h30. The narrow summit was mostly free of trees, so I settled down for an early lunch.

View North from the Mt Sekison Summit

Mt Takada seen from Mt Sekison

I was surprised that such a little-known summit had such a great view: on the north side, I could see the foothills of the Joshin-Etsu mountain range; to the south was Mt Haruna; southwest was the pointed shape of Mt Asamakakushi, and behind, Mt Asama, sitting under a dark cloud; looking east, Mt Akagi, Mt Komochi and Mt Juni were lined up; directly below, I had a bird’s-eye view of the mountains and valleys of Nakanojo. At 1pm, I set off for the next summit, looking tantalizingly close further along the ridgeline.

The Mountains and Valleys of Nakanojo

View towards the Joshin-Etsu Kogen National Park

I hadn’t expected the next part to be so challenging: the trail kept on going up and down, and included a short rocky section fitted with rope; on the other hand there were good views to be had in both directions at various points. It took a full half hour to reach the top of Mt Takada (高田山 たかだやま takada-yama). Since it was mostly in the trees, I turned around at once and headed back along the up-and-down ridge, arriving at Mt Sekison around 2pm.

In the background, Mt Haruna

In the foreground, Mt Takeyama

I was amazed by how pleasantly warm it was, the sunny weather outperforming the forecast; since it was now too late to catch the earlier bus, I spent another thirty minutes enjoying the panoramic view. I had the summit to myself, having passed the two other hikers earlier in the day. After descending at a relaxed pace, I was back at the bus stop a little before 4pm.

On the right side, the Agatsuma River Valley and Mt Asamakakushi

Heading down through the Forest

The toughest part of this 4h1/2 hike was without doubt the roundtrip ridge walk between the two peaks: the views were superb but it required surefootedness due to the steep slopes on each side. If I had been faster, I could have enjoyed a comfortable train ride directly back to Tokyo, but since the good weather held throughout the day, it was worth spending more time on the mountain itself. Going a little later in the season, I could have seen more autumn leaves but I was glad I had gone when few other people were on the trail.

Watch the Video of the Hike on Youtube

I wanted to do one last hike before the hot and humid summer. I found a peak I had never climbed before on Mt Akagi, last visited three years ago. It promised good views, but the roundtrip to the summit was on the short side. I saw on my map that I could combine it with the Kanto Fureai no Michi and end at Fudo-daki waterfall. Since it was mostly along a level trail on the south side of the volcano, it seemed ideal for a warm summer day. I would take a bus from Maebashi station for the Akagi Visitor Center and get off at a stop half way up the mountain. For the return, I planned to use the “furusato basu” to get to the nearest train station, an on-demand bus system requiring me to request a pickup before the end of my hike. I had never used such a system before, and if for some reason it didn’t work, I would have to call an expensive taxi instead. The weather was supposed to be overcast in the morning, then sunny in the afternoon, the temperatures comfortable enough for hiking. I wasn’t sure I would get any views this time, but I hoped to have one last satisfying hike before the long summer break.

Hiking on Mt Akagi and the Fureai no Michi

赤城山　・　関東ふれあいの道

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View Towards Mt Akagi on the Way Back from Mt Nabewari

Start of the Ridge Leading to Mt Nabewari

It was a cloudy morning as I got off the train at Maebashi station around 9am. I was surprised how few people boarded the bus for the one hour ride to Akagi mountain, although the parking lot next to the trail entrance was packed with cars. I set off a little before 11am, up a wide, gently sloping trail through the forest; rays of sunshine pierced the clouds, a sign of improving weather. Half an hour later, I reached Arayama Highland (荒山高原). To the south, I had a view of the head of the ridge leading to today’s summit. Many hikers were taking a break, so I quickly moved on. After a short climb, I reached a level path along a bare ridgeline.

Start of the Hike (left) Easy Walking through the Forest (right)

Near the Top of the Ridge (left) Just Before the Summit (right)

I was amazed to find such an exposed ridgeline at a relatively low altitude, although the surrounding views were hidden by the clouds. After passing two minor summits, Mt Hiokoshi (火起山) and Mt Kamado (竈山), the path reentered the forest and descended for a short while, before reaching another section of the ridgeline out of the trees. At noon, I arrived at the top of Mt Nabewari (鍋割山 なべわりやま nabewari-yama). Looking south, I could barely make out the Kanto plain through the haze; in clear weather, one can see Mt Fuji, Tanzawa, Oku-Chichibu, the South Alps and Yatsugatake. Patches of blue sky above gave me hope for the rest of the day. I sat on a bench for some lunch, before retracing my steps half an hour later.

Jumble of Rocks on the way to Arayama Kogen

Walking the Exposed Ridgeline

I was lucky to get some views on the return on the north side: I could see the long ridgeline on the west side of the volcano, ending at the rounded peak of Mt Suzu. Directly ahead, I could see Mt Ara and Mt Jizo, two other peaks of Mt Akagi (climbed in September 2015), slowly emerging from the mist. On a clear day, it would have been possible to see the North Alps, Mt Asama, Mt Azuma, Mt Kusatsu-Shirane, Mt Naeba, Mt Tanigawa, and Mt Hotaka. At 1pm, I was back at Arayama Kogen, where I joined the “Fureai no Michi”, heading west through the forest. From this point, I saw no other hikers, the sound of voices replaced by the buzzing of insects.

Some Blue Sky Above

On the Right, Mt Suzu

This was by far the best part of today’s hike, as I could totally immerse myself in the surrounding nature. The sun had finally come out but it remained tolerably cool under the tree shade. It took me about three hours of pleasant hiking to reach the trail entrance for Fudo-daki waterfall (不動滝).

At the moment, part 23 of the Gunma Fureai no Michi is closed due to trail collapse, requiring 30 minutes of road walking from Akagi Onsen.

I checked it out myself: it was indeed impassible, but I was rewarded with a close-up encounter with a deer. The short trail to the waterfall followed a rushing river, requiring some surefootedness along a rocky section, equipped with a small ladder for safety.

Heading back to Arayama Highland

Following the Fureai no Michi

I was stunned by how high this waterfall was, as it suddenly appeared past a rocky cliff in a bend in the river; according to a nearby information board, it was 32 meters tall. I got as close as I could to the thundering water, the cold splashing water welcome on this warm summer day. At 4h30 I turned back, and after reaching the road at the trail entrance, turned left. From here, it was about an hour walk down the mountain. As soon as I was back within phone range, I dialed the “furusato bus” number. After several long rings, my call was answered. I requested to be picked up from Nakanosawa Museum, the closest stop to the mountain.

Walking in the shade (left) Staircase at the End of the Fureai no Michi (right)

First view of Fudo-daki Waterfall (left) Close-up view of the Waterfall (right)

I was relieved when my request was accepted without any hesitation. I arrived at the museum just before 5h30, and a few anxious minutes later, a minibus arrived, dot on time. After a short ride through the countryside (total cost 210 yen), I was dropped off at Ogo station on the Jomo railway, a 15 minute train ride from Chuo-Maebashi station, which in turn is a ten minute bus ride from Maebashi station. I was glad I could experience a new form of transport, although on a busier day it would have taken longer to accommodate more passengers. I hope to redo this hike one day on a clear winter day so I can see all the views along the ridgeline and from the summit.

Watch a Video of the Mt Nabewari Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on Youtube