Hiking Around Tokyo

Mt Amagoi (1068m), Numata City, Gunma Prefecture, Monday, May 5, 2025

I found out about this mountain, situated between Mt Hotaka and Mt Akagi, while contributing to the Japanwilds hiking map for Tanbara Highland. Apparently most hikers go up and down the same route from the parking on the south side, but looking online, I saw it was possible to descend on the west side and end at Kawaba Den-en Plaza, one of the most famous roadside stations in Japan. Although the hike seemed somewhat short, the panoramic view from the summit motivated me to travel to a faraway and yet unexplored area.

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Start of the Hike (left) Entering the Forest (right)

Walking under the New Green (right) End of the Hike (right)

To get there, I’d ride the Joetsu Shinkansen to Jomon Kogen, and from there, ride a bus to a stop located one hour on foot from the trail entrance. For the return, I could catch a bus from the roadside station for Numata station, and there, ride the local Joetsu line to Takasaki station where I could catch a shinkansen for the short ride back to Tokyo. If time allowed, I could take a hot bath at Kawaba Den-en Raku Raku onsen before heading back. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm, typical weather for May. I was looking forward to a relaxing Golden Week Hike and getting some new views.

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Dirt Road at the Start of the Hike

Heading to the Sky

It was already quite warm as I got off the bus in the middle of the countryside. Since it was 11am, I started almost right away, up a winding road through fields and then forest. Half an hour later, I passed Ishiwari-zakura (石割桜), a massive cherry blossom tree I had hoped to catch in full bloom, but was already well into green leaves stage. After passing a junction where a steep road led down to a parking lot on the left side, I arrived at the official start of today’s hike, a dirt road hugging a deforested mountain side.

Mt Akagi’s Western Flank

A Pleasant Start to the Hike

I was excited to get a sweeping view at such an early stage: to the left was Mt Akagi, it’s long western flank clearly visible from this angle; on the right side, I could see Mt Komochi, surrounded by Mt Haruna and Mt Okono in the back, bring back good memories from hikes from over ten years ago. After a pleasant panoramic along a mostly level road, reminiscent of alpine hikes, I re-entered the forest around 1230, passing between a couple of towering red pines.

Mt Komochi (center), Mt Haruna (back left) & Mt Okono (back right)

Looking back at Mt Haruna before Entering the Forest

I was stunned by the profusion of the new green of Spring in all directions; at one point, I witnessed a flurry of white blossoms blowing across the path, coming from some unseen mountain cherry tree. After a short switchback section, I reached a flat section along a saddle on the mountain. Although I was now completely in the forest, I enjoyed the peaceful surroundings, few hikers venturing on this not so famous peak.

A Level Trail through a Peaceful Forest

The Flat Top of Mt Mitsumine with the the Peaks of Joshin’Etsu in the Back

After a short climb, I arrived at a flat space, mostly free of vegetation on the southwest side, the top of Mt Amagoi (雨乞山あまごいやま amagoi-yama), a fairly common mountain name in Japan, meaning “begging for rain”, something I definitely didn’t want to do, today being a perfect blue-sky day. Mt Akagi took up most of the south side; southwest was Mt Komochi again; I now had a new view on the west side where I could see the flat top of Mt Mitsumine, with behind, the highest peaks of the Joshin’Etsukogen National Park, most of them still in their winter clothes. Mitsumine is a popular paragliding spot and I happened to see a paraglider drift through the sky. It was exactly 1pm, so I sat on a bench and enjoyed lunch with a view.

The Tanigawa Range from the Top of Mt Amagoi

Mt Mitsumine, a Popular Paragliding Spot

After lunch, I tried to match all the Joshin’Etsu mountains using the summit information board, since only the Tanigawa range on the very right was instantly recognisable ; apparently on clear winter days, one can also see the Chichibu Mountains, the South Alps and Yatsugatake. Although trees blocked the views in other directions, I was able to spot the still snowy top of Mt Hodaka through some bare branches on the north side, a preview of my upcoming descent. A little before 2pm, I set off again, down a steep path on the west side.

Sideways View of Mt Akagi from the Top of Mt Amagoi

Heading down the Western Side of Mt Amagoi

Here, the trail was buried under dead leaves and would have been hard to follow, if it weren’t for rope attached to nearby trees. I soon emerged from the trees and was greeted with a spectacular view on the northwest side. To my right, I had a better view of the snowy summit of Mt Hotaka, framed by mountain cherry trees. On the west side, I could once again see Mt Mitsumine and Mt Tanigawa. As I descended this valley surrounded by snow-capped mountains, I almost felt like I was walking in the Swiss Alps.

Emerging from the Trees on the Northwest Side

Mt Mitsumine (left) & Mt Tanigawa (right)

I was following a narrow ridge with tall red pines on my left and a deforested area on my right, allowing for plenty of views along the descent. I soon turned left, onto a path between two rows of fir trees, the end of the scenic descent. After a short while, I entered a mixed forest, and after a short section where the only trace of a path was again a helpful rope hung between trees, I reached a winding forest road heading down through tall cedars.

View of the Tanigawa Range while Descending Mt Amagoi

Mt Hotaka and Mountain Sakura

A little before 3pm, I reached the valley bottom next to a small stream. From this point, the level trail headed west in a straight line through forest. Very soon, I reached a wildlife net and a paved road where I turned left, heading south, through orchards and fields. As I approached a busy road, I had some good side views of today’s mountain, on the left side.

Red Pines on the Left and Views on the Right

Walking along the Valley Bottom

During the entire descent, I saw no other hikers, as most people seem to visit this mountain by car. At 3h30, I reached Rakuraku onsen, meaning “comfortably”; one hour later, after a quiet hot soak, as most people seemed to prefer to spend their time at the neighbouring roadside station, I hopped on the nearly empty bus for Numata station. I was grateful to have found this hike, and to have been able to visit in this season; it is certainly one of the hidden gems of Gunma.

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Mt Katsuro (1123m), Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday, April 27, 2025

Ever since climbing Mt Gassan, I had been hoping to do another hike along the Aizu-Kinugawa line, deep inside the Nikko National Park but well off the tourist trail. Looking through my guidebook, I found a suitable mountain, its trail entrance near a train station. Although the summit was in the trees and mostly up and down the same way, the path seemed to be well-maintained with no tricky sections; along the way, it was possible to get views of 3 different lakes.

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Initially, I had planned to go in the Autumn since apparently the leaves are quite spectacular, but online reports of leeches in that season made me switch to Spring. While researching the itinerary, I was delighted to find out that Tobu railways was running an extra return train in the afternoons during Golden week, the “Skytree Train”; this gave me an extra hour to enjoy my time in a destination far away from Tokyo.

Hiking in the Nikko National Park 日光国立公園

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Start of the Hike (left) a Well-maintained Trail (right)

A Mix of Flat Sections (left) and Log Staircases (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu limited express “Revaty” from Kita-senju directly to Yunishigawa-onsen, famous for its snow house festival in the winter. For the return, I decided to ride the Skytree train only as far as Shimo-imaichi, and then switch to the Revaty coming from Nikko, since looking online, I noticed that the latter had more comfortable seats.

Spring Green Lower down (left) Bare Branches Higher up (right)

Below the Summit Ridge (left) Heading up to the Ridge (right)

The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny all day, with slightly cool temperatures, perfectly normal considering I’d be nearly 150 km north of Tokyo. If I finished on schedule, I could relax in a hot spring bath at Yunosato onsen on the 2nd floor of the roadside station connected to the train station. I was looking forward to revisiting the mountains north or Kinugawa after a 3 year interval, and curious to see whether the new green of Spring had finally arrived.

Spring Green at the Start of the Hike

Ridgeline Leading to the Summit Area

As I stepped off the train, I was surrounded by darkness, since Yunishigawa-onsen station (湯西川温泉駅) is located inside a tunnel running under today’s mountain. After riding an elevator to the surface, I got ready inside the Yunishigawa-onsen Roadside station, and at 12h30, started up the hiking trail at the far side of the parking area. After half an hour of climbing via a series of log staircases, I reached an electric pylon with views on both sides.

View South of Mt Takahara and Umijiri Bridge

Flat Section Half Way Up

I was grateful to get a good view so early in the hike: looking south, I could see Umijiri Bridge spanning Ojika River, and in the back, Mt Keicho, one of the summits of Mt Takahara; on the north side, was Yunishikawa Lake, with Mt Takase rising behind it; in the far distance was Mt Arakai. I soon continue along a well-defined path, passing an open shelter on the left side. I was surrounded by the bright green of new Spring, but as I gradually gained altitude, I reentered an area of bare branches, creating fantastical shapes against the blue sky. Branches swaying in the light breeze created the only sounds, as birds had not yet returned from their migratory trips.

Walking under Leaning Trees

Walking along a Well-Defined Path

Here and there, I glimpsed distant snowy peaks through the branches, and was glad I had chosen to visit in this season. Although it was officially the start of the Golden Week, I saw only one other hiker on the mountain, perhaps because most people prefer to visit in May, when the whole mountain is covered in new green. At a bend on the east side, I glimpsed the white ski runs of Hunter Mountain, open till the end of Golden Week. I was now following a nearly level trail heading westwards through silent forest. Shortly after reaching the summit ridge, a view on the south side opened up above some green larches.

View South of the Tochigi Mountains

Nearly at the Summit

I took a moment to enjoy the view of the mountains of Tochigi, the only recognisable peak being Mt Gassan on the right side. One of the interesting aspects of this hike is the sight the of the wooden figures of the 7 Lucky Gods (“shichifukujin” 七福神) placed along the trail. I now passed Daikokuten (大黒天), the God of Wealth, one of the more popular ones. A few minutes later, just before 2pm, I reached an open shelter at the top of Mt Katsuro (葛老山かつろうやま katsurou-yama), a 100 famous mountain of tochigi. Through the branches on the west side, I could see Mt Tashiro; on the north side, I had a double lake view, Yunishigawa lake on the left side, and Ikari lake on the right side; to the northeast, I had a good view of Mt Hiruga. I sat next to the statue of Jurojin (寿老人), the God of Longevity, for a late lunch.

Log Steps above the First Shelter

Mt Takase from near the Electric Pylon

Afterwards, I decided to explore the ridge extending southwest as I was ahead of schedule. I was rewarded with glimpses of Yashio Lake and Mt Nyoho, one of the Oku-Nikko peaks. A little after 2h30, I started to head down the same way, spotting new details such as Magnolia flowers (“kobushi“) and mountain cherry trees (“yama-zakura“). Shortly after 3pm, I arrived back at the viewpoint at the electric pylon. Here, I turned left, for an alternative descent suggested by my guidebook. After heading down a short way, I reached another pylon, where I had a view of the foothills of Mt Takahara on the east side.

Mountain Sakura and Mt Takase

Yunishi River near Yunishigawa Station

Directly ahead on the north side, I had the best view of the day, Mt Takase and Yunishigawa Lake. The path became a little rough and I encountered the first and only tricky section of the day, a short but steep descent into a gully, thankfully roped for safety. After ascending the other side, I popped out onto a road next to Nishikawa-danchi, a group of houses on the mountain side. I then followed a road to its junction with a main road, where I turned right. After crossing a tunnel, I arrived back at the roadside station at 4pm, roughly one hour before my return train. I had a leisurely hot soak, practically by myself, and shortly after 5pm, I waited on the dark platform for the Skytree train to appear out of the darkness.

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Odoriko Trail (highest point 719m), Izu City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Saturday, April 19, 2025

I wanted to visit the Izu Peninsula again since it had been a year and a half since my last hike there. I decided to explore the other half of the Odoriko trail (踊子山道), south of Amagi Pass, hoping that in this season I could finally catch the new green of Spring. Looking at my map, I saw that, although there were no summits along the way, the trail included several interesting sights: the Old Amagi tunnel, Namesawa Gorge, Tarosugi Cedar and Joren Falls.

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Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the shinkansen from Tokyo to Mishima, and there, change to the Izuhakone railway Sunzu line. At Shuzenji, I’d board a Tokai bus for Kawazu, and get off at Nikai waterfall, just past Amagi pass. For the return, I could catch a bus for Shuzenji from Joren Falls. If time allowed, I could get off at Yugashima onsen and drop by Kajika no Yu, a public bathhouse. The weather was supposed to be sunny but warm for the season, and I hoped I could keep cool walking under the tree leaves and next to rushing water.

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Taro Cedar (left) Joren Falls (right)

Upper (left) & Lower (right) Namesawa Gorge

The start of the hike was the same as when I climbed Mt Noborio a couple of years ago. After checking out Nikai Waterfall (二階滝), the amount of water seemingly the same as before, I continued past the entrance of the Kanten forest road (寒天林道), and after about 30 minutes of mostly level walking along a paved road, I reached the entrance to the Old Amagi Tunnel (旧天城トンネル), just past 1130. Built in 1905, and nearly half a kilometer long, it’s one of the 100 famous road sections in Japan.

See a Slideshow of pictures of the Trail

Fortunately, the tunnel was equipped with some lighting (not always the case) and I didn’t need to use my headlight, which I had brought just in case. Still, it was dark enough to feel a little spooky, on top of the steady drip-drip of water from the ceiling. Once out of the tunnel, I continued along a gravel road, now heading slightly downhill. Everywhere I looked, the new green was in full effect, with even some mountain sakura in full bloom dotting the opposite ridge. A little past noon, I arrived at Suishhochi (水生地), a place I had been through before on my way down from Hatcho Pond.

Walking between Kanten Forest Road and the Old Amagi Tunnel

Entrance of the Old Amagi Tunnel

Since today was a leisurely hike and I had ample time till my return bus, I decided to make a short round trip to Namako rock (なまこ岩). Although the rock itself was nothing special, I enjoyed the walk up and down the narrow valley, alongside a rushing stream, surrounded by moss-covered rocks and mitsumata flowers (ミツマタ), slightly past their prime. At 1pm, I reached the Suishochi parking lot and headed down some steps leading from the road to a trail next to a river. I had good views of the fast-flowing water on the left side, bright green wasabi fields covering the opposite bank. After a short while, I crossed the river over a metal bridge. The trail then headed into the forest and hugged the steeped forested mountain ridge. At 1h30, I came to a wide-open space called Yuyu-no-mori (遊々の森).

Walking through the Old Amagi Tunnel

Walking between the Old Amagi Tunnel and Suishochi

Since there was a bench in the shade of a towering cedar tree in one corner, I decided to take a break for lunch. Opposite was a rusty old train on display, a reminder of a time when a railway ran through the valley; behind me, I could hear the rushing water of the river; on my right, I could see the white bell-shaped flowers of the “Dodan Tsutsuji” (ドウダンツツジ) bobbing in the breeze. At 2pm, I set off again. I soon recrossed the river, and was once again walking along its right bank, arguably its best side, occasionally stopping to admire small waterfalls, slowing the rapid flow of water. As I had expected it remained pleasantly cool, despite temperatures being in the high twenties.

View of the River from the First Crossing

Following the Right Bank of the River

This was probably the best part of the today’s hike. The trail was well-maintained and easy to follow, thanks to the numerous and easy to spot “Odoriko Trail” signposts, as well as the detailed information boards. I was surprised to see few other hikers, probably because it was still early in the season. At 2h30, after crossing another bridge, I arrived at the start of Namesawa Gorge (滑沢渓谷). Here I made another round-trip up a hiking trail on the left side. It criss crossed a road a few times, but mostly followed a tributary stream. Here I spotted someone flying a drone over the gorge, most likely getting some spectacular footage.

Small Bridge along the Odoriko Trail

Third Bridge Crossing over the River

By this time of the day, the valley, oriented north-south, was in the shade. However, as I made my way up the mountain side, some sunlight finally filtered over the east ridge, lighting up the frothing water in a spectacular manner. After a while the trail merged with a forest road, and soon after, I reached my objective, Tarosugi (太郎杉), a giant cedar, 450 years old and 53m high. It’s also one of the 100 famous trees of Japan (3rd highest in the list, the highest being a tree in Akita, 58m). It stood to the right of the trail, in a small clearing at the top of a log staircase.

Wasabi Fields between Namesawa Gorge and Tarosugi

Looking up at Tarosugi

I was totally stunned by the view of this ancient giant, the effect amplified by looking up at it from below, as well as no other tree in the vicinity coming close to its majestic height. I had already visited the giant cedars in Yakushima, but there, every tree towers above you and it’s hard to grasp how tall they really are. On the way up, I had been wondering if it would be worth it, and I was definitely very happy I had made the effort. Although the tree was surrounded by a fence, it was possible to walk around it, and thus I could check out this marvel of nature from every angle. Once done, I legged it back to the entrance of the gorge, as I had now fallen slightly behind schedule. A little past 3pm, I reached the roadside station Amagi-goe (道の駅天城越え) where I crossed the road.

Rapids along Namesawa Gorge

One of the Few Mountain Views of the Hike

The final part of the hike followed a path up and down through forest before reaching a paved road at the top of a wooden staircase, a calming stroll after an exciting moment. The road led me through a somber cedar forest and then through a residential area. The elevation had dropped from over 700m around the pass, to about 300m, and for the first time today, I felt quite hot under the afternoon sun. I arrived back at the main road just before 4pm, and after recrossing it, headed down a long flight of steps. At the base of the steps, past yet another wasabi field, I arrived at the last highlight of the day, Joren Falls (浄蓮の滝), 25 meters high and the largest waterfall on Mt Amagi, as well as one of the 100 famous waterfalls of Japan.

Wooden Staircase near the End of the Hike

Joren Falls Surrounded by the New Spring Green

I admired the thundering water, as it crashed into a blue-green pool, surrounded by bright green leaves, and then made my way back up the steps. It was a short bus ride, followed by a short walk to Kajika-no-yu (河鹿の湯) in Yume-ga-shima Onsen (島温泉郷) , and although there was no outside bath, I had the indoor pool mostly to myself. I caught another bus closer to the public bath and at 5h30, I was back at Shuzenji station. There, I boarded the anime-themed train for the half an hour ride back to Mishima, from where it was less than an hour by shinkansen to Tokyo station.

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Mt Tsuchi (599m), Takahagi City, Ibaraki Prefecture, Saturday, April 12, 2025

I wanted to do another hike on the Abukuma Plateau in northern Ibaraki, as it had been more than one year since my last visit. Looking at my guidebook, I found a suitable mountain north of the Hitachi Alps. The trail went up and down the same way, but I didn’t mind since the summit had an observation tower with an unobstructed view on the south side. It was also a long way to travel for a relatively short hike, but again, I was happy to explore a new place in a little-visited part of Japan. Finally, I could combine it with a visit to the nearby Hananuki Gorge with its suspended bridge and waterfalls.

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Hiking in the Abukuma Mountains

阿武隈高地

I’d ride the Hitachi limited express from Ueno to Mito, and there, switch to a share car since no buses ran to the start of the hike. I’d drive along the Green Furusato line, allowing me to stop for a pre-hike soba lunch at Iriyoma. For the return, I’d use the faster Joban Expressway. While waiting for the train for Ueno, I could sample some local sake inside Mito station. The weather was supposed to be sunny but cooler than Tokyo, 100km to the south. Looking at online reports, I saw that it had snowed there less than 3 weeks ago, and so I wondered if by now the new green of spring had arrived.

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Start of the Hike (left) Entering the forest (right)

Walking the Top Ridge (left) Heading Down in the Late Afternoon (right)

I arrived at the Iriyoma Soba around noon only to find out that there were ten groups ahead of me. While waiting, I popped over to the nearby Oiwa Shrine 御岩神社 to check out its 50-meter high, three-trunk giant cedar (see slideshow at the bottom of the post). I got back to the restaurant just as my name was being called, and after a satisfying meal of cold soba noodles and an enormous “kakiage“, I continued my drive, arriving at the parking for the free Kotakizawa Campground 小滝沢キャンプ場 at 2pm. Half an hour later, I started up a wide trail bathed in the early afternoon sunshine.

Midway up the Steep Climb in the First Half of the Hike

Trail past Nanatsuiwa

I soon entered a dark cedar forest, and after a couple of turns, reached the base of a steep, straight climb. I cautiously made my way over the huge rocks embedded into the higher part of the slope, one rocky bit even had an attached rope for safety. A little past 3pm, I reached the top ridge, from which point the path was mostly level, save for a short up and down section. I soon arrived at the turnoff for Nanatsuiwa (七ツ岩), a spot with several moss-covered boulders and a view on the east side of Takahagi city and the Pacific ocean through the still bare tree branches.

View South of the Hitachi Alps (left) and Mt Tsukuba (right)

Mt Tatsuware, a 100 Famous Mountain of Kanto

Shortly past 3h30, I arrived at the fairly new-looking observation tower on the summit of Mt Tsuichi (土岳つちだけ tsuichidake), meaning Mt Dirt, although the summit was mostly lawn grass, with several pine trees blocking the view on the north side. To the south I could see Mt Kamine, as well as Mt Takasazu with its TV antennas, 2 prominent peaks of the Hitachi Alps; nearby, on the west side, was the long flat summit of Mt Tatsuware; in between and much further away, I could just make out Mt Tsukuba, nearly lost in the haze. According to the signboard near the summit marker, with the right conditions, one can see the Nikko Mountains, Mt Adatara, Mt Bandai and even Mt Fuji.

Mt Kamine (left) & Mt Takasuzu (right)

Observation Tower at the Top of Mt Tsuichi

At 4pm, I headed back, enjoying the soft late afternoon light still reaching the summit ridge through the leafless trees. The new green hadn’t arrived yet but the silver lining was that I was mostly in the sun on a slightly cold day and had glimpses of the views in other directions. During the steep descent, I happened to notice a group of small white flowers, Nippon Bells (イワウチワ) which I had missed on the way up. At the base of the slope, I was suddenly plunged into the shade, the sun now too low for it to reach the valley bottom. At 5pm, I was back at the campground parking, and after a short drive, reached the Hananuki Gorge (花貫渓谷) parking area, with a superb sakura tree in full bloom in one corner.

View North Between the Trees

Otome Falls in Hananuki Gorge

I made my way to the small path along Hatanuki River, the only visitor at this late hour. I first passed Fudo Falls (不動滝), before arriving at the bigger Otome Falls (乙女滝). After enjoying the sight of the falls surrounded by moss-covered rocks, I made my way back to my car. After a one-hour drive, I was back at Mito station where I had half an hour to check out various Ibaraki Japanese sake using a coin operated “sake server”. At 7h30pm, I boarded the Hitachi Limited Express for the 80-minute ride back to Tokyo.

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Mt Ogiri (766m), Higashi-chichibu & Chichibu Cities, Saitama Prefecture, Sunday, March 23, 2025

I wanted to do another hike in Higashi-Chichibu, as my previous hike there a few months ago had reminded me of what a great place it was for hiking. Looking at my map, I saw I could traverse from eastern to central Chichibu, passing by a peak climbed some years ago. The middle part of my planned hike followed the Kanto Fureai no Michi, as well as the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail, meaning the trail would be easy to follow. It had snowed heavily a few days before, but looking online, it seemed that most of the snow had already melted in the subsequent warm weather.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu-Tojo express train from Ikebukuro to Ogawamachi, and from there, board the Higashi-chichibu Village line bus for the half an hour trip to Kaiya in Higashi-Chichibu. For the return, I could catch a bus from Sadamine in Chichibu itself for the thirty-minute ride to Seibu-Chichibu station, where I could get a hot bath at Matsuri-no-yu and taste some local nihonshu from their “sake server” before catching the Laview Limited Express for Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm for the season and so I was looking forward to an early spring hike in the Chichibu mountains north of Tokyo.

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Trail past the Summit (left) After Sadamine Pass (right)

Hiking the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail

外秩父七峰縦走ハイキングコース

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi　関東ふれあいの道

View of Higashi-Chichibu from above Kaiya

Looking back at the Road for Kayunita Pass

The first part of the hike took me from the base of the valley to the open shelter at the Kayunita Pass (粥仁田峠), where I turned left, onto the Fureai no Michi the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse. I started out at 11am and arrived at the pass just before 1230 during which time I saw only one other hiker, wearing a traditional Japanese straw hat or “amigasa”. He was walking behind me and occasionally picked up pieces of trash, so I assumed he was a member of the “Kaiya Genki Club”, the name shown on the many new-looking signposts I had seen along the way.

These Fields will Turn Green in the Summer

View East Between Kayunita Pass and Mt Ogiri

This first part was entirely along deserted country lanes through open fields, meaning I had wide sweeping views of the Higashi-Chichibu valley every time I stopped and turned around. On the southeast side, I could see Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira, climbed in November last year; on the northeast side was Mt Kannokura. Most of the surrounding vegetation was still in winter mode which felt a bit strange considering that the temperature was above 20°. On the same day I saw cherry blossom trees that had already reached full bloom and patches of leftover snow, sometimes even at the same spot.

Walking the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail

View of Chichibu Highland Farm from Mt Ogiri

The next part from the Kayunita pass to the summit, up a proper hiking trail, took half an hour. It was mostly in the forest although I had a view of Higashi-Chichibu through a gap in the trees mid-way. The guy in the “amigasa” caught up with me at the summit but it turned out that he was just another hiker. The view was a bit hazy and better appreciated with the naked eye than in photos. Straight ahead, northwards, I could see Chichibu Highland Farm, Mt Misuzu and the Nagatoro Alps. To the west was the outline of Mt Ryokami and the Oku-Chichibu mountains: and on the south side was the easily recognisable pyramid summit of Mt Buko. Mt Ogiri (大霧山おおぎりやま meaning big fog) is a 100 famous mountain of Kanto, hard to believe since I had the summit to myself (the straw hat guy left after a short break).

Level Section Past the Summit

View East of Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira

I sat on one of the benches for a half hour lunch break. During that time, using the detailed “View Guide” (展望案内), I tried to identify many of the mountains that could be seen on a day with perfect visibility. At 1h30, I set off again, and reached the Old Sadamine Pass (旧定峰峠) less than an hour later. This up and down section was also mostly in the trees, except for a view of Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira beyond a field on the left side. The ground was dry and free of mud despite the heavy snow just a few days ago, allowing me to walk at a good pace. I was also glad to be in the shade of the trees, shielding me from the sun on an unseasonably warm spring day.

Leftover Snow on a Warm Spring Day

Approaching the Sadamine Pass

At the Old Sadamine Pass, a crossway surrounded by tall cedars, I turned right, heading down the valley towards Sadamine, leaving the Fureai no Michi and 7 Peaks Traverse which both continued straight along the ridgeline. A signboard recounted the Legend of Daidarabotchi, including the origin of Mt Ogiri:

Long ago, there was a giant named Daidabo who lived in the Musashi Plain. One day, on his way to Mt. Haguro, he straddled the Chichibu Mountains, sitting on Sadamine Pass, and putting his straw hat on top of Mt Kasa. He stretched out his legs toward the nearby Yokogawa Rive and, placing his bowl of cooked rice gruel on Kayunita Pass, enjoyed his lunch. After he finished eating, he placed his chopsticks (made from two logs) into the ground and stood up, accidentally leaving a large rock behind that had been supporting his lower back. He then took a sip of water from the Arakawa River and blew it out—this is said to have formed Mt. Ōgiri. To this day, the footprints left behind by the giant remain in the form of wetlands and marshes in the upper reaches of the Yokogawa River and in the mountains around Shiraiwa.

End of the Hike in Sadamine on the Chichibu Side

View Towards Maruyama from Sadamine

The last part of the hike was a straightforward descent through forest. At 3pm, I popped back onto a road near Sadamine. It was another 30 minute walk back to the road and a bus stop. Since I was ahead of schedule, rather than waiting under the afternoon sun, I decided to visit the nearby Shimabuji Temple (四萬部寺), #1 on the Kannon Temple Circuit. By 4h30, I was on the bus for Seibu-Chichibu station. Surprisingly the food court and souvenir shops were not crowded, possibly because March is still out of season for the area. Shortly after 6pm, I was comfortably seated on the Laview Limited express for the 90 minute ride back to Ikebukuro.

Watch a Video of the Mt Ogiri Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Otsuka (213m), Machida & Hachioji Cities, Tokyo Prefecture, Thursday, March 20 & 27, 2025

I was looking for an easy hike for the Spring Equinox, since I planned to go hiking again a few days later on the weekend. It had snowed the day before in the mountains around Tokyo so I decided to explore some more parks inside the capital, which I hoped were mostly snow-free. Looking at my map, I noticed that Machida seemed to have a lot of green areas so it felt like a good place to start. I also saw that many trails started and ended at train stations so it seemed relatively easy to make a station to station hike.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line from Shinjuku to Hachioji station, enjoying the comfort of the newly added green (1st class) cars. There, I’d transfer to the JR Yokohama line and ride 3 stops to Aihara station. I’d end at Naganuma station on the Keio line which, after a transfer to the express at Takahatafudo station, I could ride all the way back to Shinjuku. Although Aihara is geographically far from Machida station (13km), it is connected to Machida city via a narrow neck extending westwards.

From the station, I’d head west along Machida-Kaido Avenue to the start of the Nanakuni Pass Promenade (七国峠遊歩道 nanakoku-toge yuhodo), an ancient road that used to run to Tsukui; I’d follow it north past Dainichido Shrine (大日堂 223m), the highest point of the hike, and Nanakuni Pass, where I’d turn eastwards along the north side of Aihara Central Park (相原中央公園). On the way, I hoped to get a view of the Okutama mountains on the west side from the Nanakuni Ridge Viewpoint (七国尾根見晴台).

After crossing Hachioji-kaido Avenue near Goten Pass (御殿峠 206m), I’d continue eastwards along another path, hugging the north side of a university campus; past a bridge over Hachioji bypass, I’d be standing at Yarimizu Pass (鑓水峠), just below the top of Mt Otsuka (大塚山おおつかやま ootsukayama), also the site of Doryado Ruins (道了堂跡), a famous haunted spot. It’s also on the historical Silk road, between Hachioji and Yokohama, which I’d only follow for a short section before turning left. I’d then walk a few minutes down a paved road leading to the Kitanodai residential neighbourhood, and rejoin another hiking trail, on the south side of a small park.

After passing through forest, countryside and farmland in the Nakayama locality, and then crossing the Kaien-kaido Avenue, I’d finally arrive at Naganuma Park (長沼公園), a forested area occupying a steep slope south of Asakawa river, a tributary of Tama river. I’d descend to the park entrance via Tonoyato Path (殿ヶ谷戸の道), and from there it was a short walk through Naganuma Town to get to the train station. The weather was supposed to be cloudy in the morning turning sunny in the afternoon. I was looking forward to doing a rare hike within the city of Tokyo and getting views of the city as well as the surrounding mountains.

In the end, I decided to cut the hike short at Goten Pass, and head north to Katakura Station on the Yokohama line, one stop from Hachioji. The next Thursday, I returned to Aihara station, and after following a shorter route to Goten Pass, picked up where I had left off a week before. I reached Naganuma station around lunchtime, thus completing the planned hike. The one week delay gave me a chance to see the first cherry blossom trees in full bloom of the season.

Donichido Shrine (left) Bell near Goten Pass (right)

See a Slideshow of pictures of the Trail

Snowy Tanzawa mountains near Aihara station

Fallen Tree on the Nanakuni Pass Promenade

Gentle Climbing on the Nanakuni Pass Promenade

Trail on the North Side of the Aihara Central Park

Path heading up Nanakuni Ridge Green Space

View West of Okutama from the Nanakuni Ridge Viewpoint

Trail heading inside Aihara Central Park

Mt Takao (center front), Mt Goten & Mt Odake (right back)

Trail Past the Nanakuni Ridge Viewpoint

Trail Past Goten Pass

Bridge over Hachioji Bypass

View of Western Tokyo from Yarimizu Pass

Looking back at Yarimizu Pass on the Silk Road

Looking down at the Kitanodai Residential Neighbourhood

On the Other Side, Naganuma Park

Back on a Hiking Trail in Nakayama

Beyond the Farmland, the High Rises of Tama Center

View of West Tokyo from the Top of Naganuma Park

Walking along the Tonoyato Path

Early Sakura at Rokushagu Shrine

Watch a Video of the Mt Otsuka Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

This Blog Post Continues a Little Longer…

I was so taken by Naganuma Park that I decided to return on the third Wednesday of April for some more exploring. This time, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express from Shinjuku to Hachioji, and from there, take the Tama Monorail to Takahatafudo, 3 stops from Naganuma station on the Keio line. I chose this slightly longer way to enjoy the view of Mt Fuji from the right side of the Monorail. For the return, I’d simply ride the Keio line from Naganuma station back to Shinjuku.

A short walk from the station would bring me back to Rokushagu shrine (六社宮). There, I’d follow the West ridge (西尾根) trail to the top of the park (頂上園地 chojo-enchi), then walk a short way to the Naganuma Park Observation Point, an open shelter with a view of West Tokyo and the Okutama mountains. I’d then head down the Tochimoto Ridge (栃木尾根) on the east side of the park. After that, if time allowed, I’d head up the Chosenji Ridge trail (長泉寺尾根), and then, halfway up the park, head down the connecting Western Chosenji Ridge Trail (西長泉寺尾根). After descending once again to the base of the park, I’d make my way back to the nearby Naganuma station.

I was looking forward to getting some more views of western Tokyo, as well as the Tanzawa and Okutama mountains. Blue skies were forecast all day, and in this season, I’d also get to enjoy the new green of Spring, as well as the pleasing melody of birdsong, especially the distinctive call of the Uguisu, the Japanese bush warbler, a sure sign that Spring has arrived.

New green at the Top of the Park (left) and on the Chosenji Ridge (right)

Rokushagu Shrine without Cherry Blossoms

Hiking the West Ridge Trail

Bridge with a View near the Top of the Park

Mt Gozen (left), Mt Odake & Mt Mitake (center), Chichibu Mountains (right)

The Naganuma Park Observation Point

West Tokyo and Surrounding Mountains

Mt Mito (center) & Mt Kumotori behind Mt Odake (right)

Top of the Tochimoto Ridge Trail

Heading down the East Side of the Park

View of the Nikkei Housing Complex

In the Distance, the High Rises of Tachikawa

Watch a Video of Naganuma Park

Arahata-Fuji (119m), Tokorozawa, Higashi-Murayama & Higashi-Yamato Cities, Saitama & Tokyo Prefectures, Sunday, March 2 & 9, 2025

I was looking for a low-altitude hike near Tokyo to stay clear of the snow that usually covers the mountains surrounding the Kanto area in this season. I also wanted something relatively easy and straightforward to help me get back in shape after being out sick for a couple of weeks. I had explored the parks surrounding the Sayama and Tama lakes by bicycle many years ago. I thought it would be a good chance to revisit them on foot and have a closer look at the sights along the way.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Seibu Laview Limited Express to Tokorozawa, and from there, walk half an hour to the entrance of Hachikoku-yama Park (八国山緑地). After traversing the park, I’d make a short detour to Hatomine Park (鳩峯公園) to visit one of the many Totoro forests in the area, as well as Hachiman Shrine (八幡神社) at its eastern end. I’d then head over to Arahata Citizen’s forest (荒幡富士市民の森) where I could “climb” Arahata-Fuji (荒幡富士), an artificial Mt Fuji with 10 real stations. After checking out the view from the summit, I could drop by the nearby Sayama Hills Flora & Fauna Interaction Center (狭山丘陵いきものふれあいの里センター) to learn more about the plants and animals that grow and live in the surrounding forest.

Hiking in the Sayama Natural Park 都立狭山自然公園

If time and energy allowed, I’d then cross over to Tama Lake (多磨湖), next to Seibuen Theme park. After admiring the view of the Okutama mountains, and hopefully Mt Fuji, from Murayama-shita Dam (村山下ダム), I’d walk clockwise around the lake to Higashi-Yamato Green Space (東大和市立狭山緑地) which promised a view of the Tanzawa mountains on its south side. I’d then double-back to Higashi-Yamato Park (東大和公園), making sure to visit the Higashiyamato City Local History Museum (東大和市立郷土博物館) on the way. Next, I’d head to Sayama Park (狭山公園), just below Tama Lake and its dam.

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Finally, if I made good time, I could explore the nearby and relatively short Seseragi road (せせらぎの道), and the equally short Megurita Greenway (廻田緑道), after which I’d follow the Yanase river to Kitayama Park (北山公園), a park famous for its flowers, although probably none in this season. This final park in my tour sits opposite Hachikoku-yama park, the forested area divided by the Seibuen line and its yellow train cars. From the bridge at the eastern end of the park, I could walk 15 minutes to Higashi-Murayama station, one stop from Tokorozawa on the Seibu-Shinjuku line. The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon. I was looking forward to revisiting one of the closest nature spots to the center of Tokyo.

In the end, I decided to cut the hike short after visiting the Sayama Hills Flora & Fauna Interaction center, and headed home using the nearby Shimo-yamaguchi station on the Seibu Sayama line, a couple of stops from Tokorozawa. The next week I returned to the same station to pick up where I had left off, after making a second visit to Arahata-Fuji. Once again, I decided to skip the last part of the hike, and so after Sayama Park, I made my way back via Seibuen station on the Seibuen line.

Above is a slideshow showing the wide variety of trails within the many parks surrounding Tama Lake

Steps heading down in Hachikokuyama Ryokuchi Park

Totoro Forest #2 in Hatomine Park

Arahata-Fuji and its 10 stations

Leaving Arahata Citizen’s Forest

Re-entering Arahata Citizen’s Forest the Following Week

View North from the Top of Arahata-Fuji

Weeping Plum Blossom Tree on the Way to Tama Lake

Fujimi “Periscope Tower” in Seibuen Park

Murayama-shita Dam on Tama Lake

Few People Walking the Dam…

…on a Cold Winter Day

View East of Higashi-Murayama City & Hachikokuyama Park

View West of the Okutama Mountains

Mt Fuji was in the Clouds but Seibu Dome was visible on the right

Wooden Walkway in Higashiyamato Sayama green space

Observation Plaza in Higashiyamato Sayama green space

Heading to one more viewpoint on the Southwestern Side of the Park

Tanzawa Mountains (left) and Okutama Mountains (right)

Diorama of the Mountains around Tokyo in Higashiyamato City Museum

Unsho-ji Temple on the way to Higashi-Yamato Park

Watch a Video of the Arahata-Fuji Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

This Blog Post Continues a Little Longer…

I wanted to return to Tama Lake to complete my originally planned hike. I finally had an opportunity for a short morning hike on the second Wednesday of April. The cherry blossom season had started later than usual due to unseasonably cold weather at the beginning of the month, and I was hoping to still see some sakura in full bloom, as well as the new green, inside Sayama Park.

I would ride the Laview Limited Express to Tokorozawa, then change to the Seibu Shinjuku line for the one stop ride to Higashi-Murayama, and change again to the Seibuen line for another one stop ride to Seibuen station, the whole trip possible in one hour thanks to short connection times. The weather was supposed to be warm and sunny and so I hoped to get my third view of Fuji of the year.

Seibuen Fujimi “Periscope Tower” Surrounded by Sakura

New Green at the North Side of Sayama Park

View of Mt Fuji from Tama Lake

Murayama-Shita Dam under the Morning Sun

Clear View of the Okutama Mountains (Mt Odake on the left side)

Cherry Blossom Trees in Sayama Park

A Good Spot for Hanami

Wooden Steps Connecting the Dam and the Park

Walking among the Sakura in Sayama Park

Following Seseragi Road in Higashi-Murayama

Observation Deck on Megurita Greenroad

Walking on Sakura Promenade at the End of Megurita Greenroad

Another Good Place for Hanami

Two People Enjoying a Break under a Huge Sakura Tree

Group of Huge Cherry Blossom Trees in Kitayama Park

Kitayama Park in the Early Spring

Pair of Weeping Cherry Blossom Trees in front of Higashi-Murayama Station

Watch a Video of the Final Part of the Arahata-Fuji Hike

See a Slideshow of some more Pictures of the Hike

Ohara to Taito Beach (Highest Point 63m), Isumi City, Chiba Prefecture, Sunday, February 9, 2025

I wanted to do one more hike in Chiba. I also wanted to get there and back via public transport. Finally, I wanted to explore more of the Chiba Kanto Fureai no Michi. I decided to combine two of its shorter sections, heading south to north from Ohara Beach to Taito beach, the latter also the starting point of the 90 kilometer long Kujukuri Beach. Although I wouldn’t be standing on any peaks, I’d be walking nearly 20 kilometers with a view of the Pacific ocean for most of the way.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Hiking along the Kanto Fureai no Michi　関東ふれあいの道

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Wakashio Limited Express from Tokyo station to Ohara station. For the return, I could ride the Sotobo line just one stop from Torami to Kazusa-Ichinomiya, and there change to the Wakashio Limited Express for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be cold and sunny all day, a typical Japanese winter day. I was looking forward to a long day of mostly level walking along the Pacific Ocean.

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Following Niida River to Ohara Beach

Cycling road along Ohara Coast

After a pleasant train ride under blue skies, I arrived at Ohara station a little before noon. After getting ready, I followed the signs for the Kanto Fureai no Michi to Niida river, where I turned right along a pedestrian path. At 1230, I spotted a palm tree, a sign that I was getting close to a beach area. Soon after, I could see the ocean, waves rolling in at regular intervals. I turned left, now walking in the sand along Ohara beach (大原海岸).

Looking back at Hachiman Cape

Looking forward to Taito Cape

I was surprised to see a couple of surfers on this cold winter day. Eventually, I made my way to the cycling path running parallel to the beach, easier to walk than the sandy beach. Directly ahead, I could see Taito cape, the halfway point of today’s walk. Just before 1h30, I reached the end of the beach; the path turned left and right, heading straight alongside a reedy inlet.

Heading straight….

…alongside a Reedy Inlet

The quiet waters of the inlet created a nice contrast with the crashing waves of the ocean, waterfowl lazily floating on the calm surface. After passing a couple of slender antennas, I reached Izumiura Beach (和泉浦海岸) where I turned left along the Isumi river. Looking left across the fields, I could see a series of low hills, a hint of the hilly interior of the boso peninsula. I turned right at Koto Bridge and then followed small roads through the fields, ending at Taito Seaside (Taito-Kaihin 台東海浜) at the base of Taito cape.

Approaching Taito Cape

Walking next to Isumi River

I observed the waves crash onto the waves breakers for a short while, and then headed inland, following the familiar Fureai no Mich signposts. A little after 2h30, I arrived at Taisho Dam, where I turned right, heading uphill for the first time today. At 3pm, I arrived at Taito Cape Lighthouse (太東崎灯台), the highest point of the day.

Taito Cape from Isumi River

Walking through the Fields

I was delighted by the vast expanse of blue ocean under a cloudless sky on the east side. Looking south, I had a bird’s-eye view of Izumiura Bay and Isumi river. I sat on one of the many benches for a late lunch with a view. I realised that my pace had been too leisurely up to now, so I soon moved on, retracing my steps down to sea level. Heading northwards at a quick pace, I came upon Suzume-jima (雀島 meaning swallow island) at 3h30, much faster than I had expected.

Taito Cape from Taito Seaside

Taisho Dam near Taito Cape

I was lucky to reach this photogenic rocky island while it was till bathed in sunlight. After enjoying the view of the yellow cliffs surrounded by blue sea, I continued northwards, and past a tunnel and a seaside resort, reached the entrance of the Taito Hiking Trail (太東ハイキングコース). Sadly this side of the trail had become overgrown and was now permanently closed. I followed the road till it merged with a busy thoroughfare, but soon turned right, heading towards Taito Beach (太東海岸). Very soon, I spotted the other end of the hiking trail, a series of steps leading up a bluff on the right side.

View of Izumiura Bay and Isumi River from Taito Cape

Deep Blue Pacific Ocean from Taito Cape

I was excited to be finally walking on an actual hiking trail. At the top of the steps, I crossed a wide, level grassy space ending at another series of steps. Between the vegetation on the left side, I had glimpses of Kujukurihama beach, today’s final destination. At 4pm, I popped out onto the Taito Hiking Trail Observation Point (太東ハイキングコース展望台 47m) where I once again had a wide view of the Pacific Ocean on the east side.

Swallow Island past Taito Cape

Hiking Trail for the Observation Point

Suddenly, I noticed a bird of prey circling overhead, always a pleasure to observe wildlife on a hike. After a short break, I made my way back down to the base of the bluff and continued along the main road. It was getting late so I decided to skip the last part along the beach, having visited it in the past, and head straight for the station.

Taito Beach at the Start of Kujukurihama

Heading Back from the Observation Point

Along the way I was rewarded with some very early plum blossoms, probably due to the mild seaside climate. A little before 5pm, I reached Torami Station, one of the most undeveloped stations I had ever been to. After riding one stop to Kazusa-Ichinomiya station, I hopped onto the limited express for the one hour ride back to Shinjuku. The Kanto Fureai Michi continues past Torami and connects with the Kasamori Green Path, so one day I hope to return to continue my exploration of this network of trails surrounding the Tokyo area.

Watch a video of the Ohara to Taito Beach Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Tobio (234m), Atsugi City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, February 1, 2025

I found this hike, through the low hills at the edge of western Tanzawa, in one of my guidebooks; in addition to a view from the highest point, it also passed by an observation tower, seemingly a characteristic of the area. It was a little on the short side, but looking at maps online, I saw it was possible to extend it northeast and also include one more observation tower.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Hiking in the Tanzawa Mountains 丹沢山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu line limited express to Atsugi, and then board a bus for the Tobio locality, at the southern end of the hills. For the return, I’d catch a bus back to Atsugi near the northern end. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon. I was looking forward to a relaxing winter hike with views of the Tanzawa mountains and the Kanto Plain.

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Trail at the Start of the Hike (left) Trail past the Tower (right)

Steep Climb before Mt Tobio (left) Road for Mt Hasuge (right)

I sped south under blue skies comfortably seated on the “Romance Car”, arriving at Atsugi a little before 1030. There, I boarded a half-full bus for the half-hour ride to Tobio Danchi. After a short walk through a residential neighbourhood, I reached the start of the hiking trail at 1130 at the top of a long staircase. After following a level trail for a short while, I arrived at Sannosha (山王社), a Shinto Shrine at the edge of the forest with a view of the Kanto Plain on the eastern side.

View of the Kanto Plain from Sansho Shrine

Trail between Sannosha and Konpirasha Shrines

I was delighted to get a view so soon, even only of a flat urbanscape. After quickly checking out the shrine, I continued on my way, and soon arrived at Konpirasha (金毘羅社), another Shinto shrine, this one with a photogenic red “torii” or “Shinto gate”. It was completely in the forest, but a little further along the trail, I came upon the equally photogenic yellow konpirasan Observation Tower (金比羅山展望台 also known as the Mt Tobio Observation Tower).

View Southeast of Kanagawa from the Observation Tower

View Northeast of Tokyo from the Observation Tower

It was one of the tallest observation towers I’d ever been up; unfortunately, bare branches still reached high enough to partly interfere with the view of the Tanzawa mountains on the western side; I could still make out the triangular summit of Mt Oyama, as well as Mt Kyogatake, Mt Bukka and Mt Takatori; on the eastern side was the flat Kanto plain, Tokyo’s skyscrapers lost in the haze. Looking south, I could see the elevated plateau stretching from Shonan Daira to Hadano city. To the north, I could observe the entire length of the hills I’d be hiking today.

View of Western Tanzawa from the Observation Tower

Mt Oyama from the Observation Tower

This was probably the best view of the day, and once satisfied, I headed down the stairs to continue my hike. The trail first went downhill, then became level near a rock mining area, before climbing steeply. Before I could break a sweat, I found myself at the top of Mt Tobio (鳶尾山とびおさん tobio-san), known for its cherry blossoms trees, although in this season the branches were still bare. I had a view once again of the Kanto plain; northwards were the Okutama mountains, the distinctive shape of Mt Odake clearly visible in the far distance. Since it was just past 1pm, I sat on a sunny bench for lunch with a view. Once done, I set off again.

Trail past the Observation Tower

Level Section before Mt Tobio

I followed a level trail surrounded by mixed forest, the most pleasant part of the hike so far, hiding the nearby city for a short while. I eventually reached a paved road at Yanami Pass (やなみ峠), the end of the Mt Tobio Hiking Trail. Here, I turned right onto the road as it descended gently through the forest. Just past a small creek at a bend, I spotted a series of log steps heading steeply up the mountain side. Clouds had covered the entire sky at an astonishing speed bringing a chill to what had been so far a pleasant winter day. I quickly made my way up the steps to warm my chilled body.

Bench at the Top of Mt Tobio

View of the City from Mt Tobio

I was glad to be back on a hiking trail, even for a short while. At 2h30, I arrived at the the top of Mt Hasuge (八菅山 200m) and the Mt Hasuge Observation Tower (八菅山展望台), about half the height of the previous one. The view, only on the east side, was also less spectacular, possibly due to the white cloud cover and lower elevation. After checking out the nearby Hasuge Shrine (八菅神社), I continued northwards, now on a wide, level dirt track, trees on both sides. After a while, I reached a fence on the west side, beyond which I could see a golf course, the Nakatsugawa Country Club.

Trail past Mt Tobio

Tanzawa Mountains beyond the Green

Beyond the green, I could see the dark outline of the Tanzawa mountains under grey clouds. A little further, I reached a road and an electric pylon at the top of the country club. Here, I turned left, descending between the greens, passing the club house and its huge parking lot. At 3h30 I reached the base of the mountain and after a short walk through the countryside, arrived at a bus stop on a busy road. Here and there, I could see the first plum blossoms of the season. A little later, I was on the bus for Atsugi, and at 5pm I boarded the Romance car for the one hour trip back to Tokyo.

Watch a Video of the Mt Tobio Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Ojuhacha (162m), Mt Tanuki (139m) & Mt Kitsune (153m), Ichihara City, Chiba Prefecture, Sunday, January 26, 2025

I was looking for an easily accessible hike in Chiba. Looking at my map, I found a suitable loop hike inside Yonezawa Forest, in the northern half of the Bozo peninsula. It was a short walk from Kazusa-Ushiku station on the Kominato line, as well as a short drive from Mobara station. I chose to go by car to take advantage of the Sotobo line limited express. The route included 3 minor peaks, Mt Fuji apparently visible from the first one on clear weather days.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Hiking on the Boso Peninsula 房総半島

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Wakashio Limited Express from Tokyo station to Mobara station, and there, switch to a share car; for the return, I’d use the Wakashio bound for Shinjuku station. Before the hike, I’d stop by Nagara Chosei An for an early Soba Lunch. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day and I was looking forward to visiting a new spot on the Boso Peninsula, as well as getting my first proper view of Fuji of the year.

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Start of the Hike (left) Entering the Bamboo Grove (right)

Inside the Bamboo Grove (left) Walking through Ferns (right)

It was another perfect winter day as I rode the limited express from Tokyo Station, arriving at Mobara around 11am. After finding my share car, I drove to Nagara Taiyo Farm, situated on a tableland, also the location of the soba restaurant. After lunch, I walked a short way to the nearby Nagaiki Observation Deck (長生き展望台 meaning long life), perched at the edge of a steep incline; from a modest elevation of about 100 meters, I had a stunning view to the east of the forested coastal plain extending north to south.

Looking East from the Nagaiki Observation Deck

Looking North from the Nagaiki Observation Deck

Cold gusts soon forced me to retreat to my car, and after a short drive, I reached the Yonezawa-no-mori #3 parking lot, along the Uguisu line (meaning Japanese Nightingale), one of the entrances to Yonezawa forest (米沢の森). After getting ready, I set off just after 1pm, up a gentle incline. I soon arrived at a junction on a ridge where I turned right. After following a pleasant path through the forest, I got to another junction where I turned right again. Here and there, helpful hand drawn signs along the trail kept me on the right track. At 1h30, I arrived at Ojuhacha (御十八夜おじゅうはっちゃ ojuuhaccha), the highest point of today’s hike, also the location of a relay station, with a wide view on the west side.

Sun Filtering through the Foliage

Approaching the Turnoff for Mt Kitsune

I was delighted by the view of white-capped Fuji, visible through the haze, on the other side of Tokyo Bay, with the Hakone mountains to its right, and Southwest, I spotted the prominent plateau of Mt Kano, also the location of Mother Farm, with the outline of the Miura peninsula on its right side; further south were the countless low mountains of Minamiboso. Looking northwest, I could make out the skyscrapers of Tokyo. I was tempted by a bench next to the relay building but it was too soon for a break. I headed downhill, glimpses of a golf course on my left side, and after a short while, reached the Uguisu line, but soon rejoined another hiking trail on the other side.

View west towards Tokyo Bay from Ojuhacha

Looking up the Bamboo Stalks

It was great to be walking through the evergreen trees that cover most of the Boso peninsula; some leaves were bright green, turning winter into a distant memory. After some ups and downs, I reached the top of Mt Tanuki (たぬき山たぬきやま tanuki-yama meaning Mt Raccoon); it was completely in the trees, and despite the tanuki’s reputation for possessing people, I didn’t feel compelled to stick around.

Path Leading into the Bamboo Grove

Walking Through the Bamboo

At 2h30, after some more ups and downs, typical of hiking in Boso, I arrived at the third and last peak of the day, Mt Kitsune (きつね山きつねやま kitsune-yama meaning Mt Fox), slyly tucked away down a side path off the main trail, also surrounded by trees. I resumed my hike, following a slightly descending ridgeline straight through the forest, ignoring several tracks on the left side, and at 3pm, arrived at the edge of a bamboo grove.

An Easy to Walk Trail

A Level Trail Through an Evergreen Forest

I was excited to be walking through bamboo, the tall stalks swaying and cracking in the breeze. After exiting the grove, I descended a fern-lined path ending at some houses along a road; here I turned left and soon crossed the Uguisu line again. After a short walk under the afternoon sun through the Yonezawa locality, I turned right, up a road leading back into the forest. The road leveled and turned into a path, in the shade of tall cedars. I passed a wooden “torii” (Shinto gate) on the right side, the entrance to Awasu Shrine. I continued straight ahead, thick vegetation crowding in on both sides, blue sky now reappearing above.

Mt Fuji & Hakone from Ojuhacha

Mt Tanuki from above the Uguisu Parking Lot

I had an unexpected view of Mt Tanuki through a break in the vegetation on the right, the rounded tree-covered summit area bathed in the late afternoon light. Shortly after, I arrived at the turn-off for the parking lot, and by 4pm I was back at my car. I felt I had only walked a small part of the network of trails through Yonezawa forest but felt happy to have finally seen the full shape of Mt Fuji for the first time of the year. I returned the car at 5pm and then boarded the limited express; after enjoying the sunset from my seat, I settled in for the one hour ride back to Tokyo.