Mt Yakebitai (2009m) & Mt Ryuo (1900m), Yamanouchi Town, Nagano Prefecture, Saturday, June 17, 2023

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I wanted to make another trip to Shiga Highland since I had such a great hike there last year. I had been planning to use the Ryuo ropeway for a while, but needed good weather to justify the expense. I had my chance after a typhoon passed over East Japan, bringing clear blue skies in its wake. My hiking map from ten years ago showed a trail between the ropeway and the Oku-Shiga ski resort; however, it was absent in future versions. Looking at online reports, I saw that a trail still existed and that I could do a roundtrip to the highest point, although it was hard to tell the duration. I would take the shinkansen to Nagano and then the Nagano Dentetsu line to Yudanaka; there, I could catch a free shuttle bus to the base of the ropeway. For the return, I had to make sure to catch the last ropeway at 5pm. It was supposed to be quite hot, but hopefully it wouldn’t affect me much, since the hike would be mostly above 1800 meters. I was looking forward to visiting a new part of Shiga Kogen and getting some great views on a clear day.

Hiking in the Joshin-Estu Kogen National Park

上信越高原国立公園

Chigoike Wetland, near the top of Mt Yakebitai

View of Togakushi Kogen from Sora Terrace

It was the perfect day as I rode the shinkansen to Nagano, where I caught the limited express “Snow Monkey”, arriving at Yudanaka around 1030. I was one of the few people to board the minivan, departing opposite the station, for the half an hour ride to the ropeway, located in the North part of Shiga-Kogen. At 1130, I finally reached Sora Terrace at the top of the ropeway, where I had a sweeping view of the mountains of Nagano, completely free of clouds. In the background, was the entire range of the North Alps, the highest peaks still covered in snow. In the foreground, was Togakushi Highland and its many volcanoes: Mt Takatsuma, Mt Iizuna, Mt Kurohime, Mt Myoko, and its highest peak crowned in white, Mt Hiuchi; closer still was Mt Madarao, climbed in the summer and skied in the winter; directly opposite was Mt Kosha, a summit I hope to climb soon.

View towards Nagano

View of the Ryuo Ropeway

I was surprised by how warm it felt, even though I was 1770 meters high. After admiring the view, I set off just before noon. First, I followed a gently climbing ski slope through the forest, wide enough to be out of the shade; I was feeling pretty hot and wondered if I had enough water. I soon reached the start of a short loop through the Ryuo summit wetland (竜王山頂湿原), along a wooden walkway on the left side. It took about ten minutes, but gave me a close look at the natural beauty of the Joshin-Etsu Kogen National Park. I resumed my hike and soon made my way up a steeper slope, eventually reaching a (closed) restaurant at the top of the Ryuo ski resort.

The North Alps still covered in snow

Close to Far: Mt Kosha, Mt Madarao and Mt Myoko

Turning around, I had a view of the North Alps framed by pines, as well as the round top of Mt Yakebitai, to be climbed on the return. I soon located the start of the trail on the right side: although there were no signposts, pink ribbons were attached to trees at regular intervals; thick forest on both sides made the use of a GPS device superfluous. The path descended into a broad valley, completely hidden from the outside world; above the trees, I had my first view of today’s highest peak. Very soon, I was climbing up a steep slope, sweating a lot in the heat; I had to use my head net to keep out the many insects. A little before 1pm, the slope leveled and a wooden walkway suddenly appeared.

A short loop through the Ryuosancho-Shitsugen

Looking back at the summit of Mt Ryuo

I soon arrived at a stunningly beautiful pond, chigoike wetland (稚児池湿原); although it was shown on my map, I hadn’t expected anything like this. I had also arrived at the summit of Mt Yakebitai (焼額山 やけびたいやま yakebitaiyama). After some lunch, I dropped my pack and did tour of the wetland, following the walkway counterclockwise. On the west side, Mt Kurohime and Mt Myoko rose majestically from the edge of the grassy wetland. On the east side, I emerged from the forest onto another ski slope, looking totally different from the time I was there on skis.

The summit of Mt Yakebitai, across the hidden valley

Wooden Shinto Gate at Chigoike Wetland

I had another amazing view, this time of the mountains of Niigata, many of them yet to be climbed. From left to right, I could see Mt Torikabuto, Mt Naeba, Mt Shirasuna and Mt Iwasuge, its side view resembling a ship. It was already 2h30 so I quickly completed the loop, passing near a small shrine and its wooden “torii” (Shinto Gate), looking quite magical among the pines, next to the pond. A little before 3pm, I set off for the return, reaching the top of Mt Ryuo (竜王山 りゅうおうさん ryuuousan) less than an an hour later. Sadly the path to the summit was overgrown by vegetation and view of Shiga Kogen to the south was mostly hidden by trees. I could only stay a few minutes till swarms of insects forced me to retreat.

Mt Kurohime and Mt Myoko rising from the wetland

Top of the Oku-Shiga Ski Resort

I was absolutely astounded that the trail I used on the return was not better known. I had frequent views on the left side through breaks in the vegetation. Fortunately I was ahead of schedule, so I could take my time. After the peaks of Shiga Kogen, including Mt Kasa, Mt Kusatsu-Shirane and Mt Azumaya, I also had a magical view of Mt Kosha, Mt Madarao and Mt Myoko, lined up and shrouded in the afternoon haze. I arrived back at the ropeway just before 4h30, relieved that I had made it back with time to spare. Once back at Yudanaka, I regretfully had to skip the hot spring next to the station, as I wanted to catch the last limited express for Nagano, where I then hopped onto the shinkansen for the 90 minute ride back to Tokyo.

View of Shiga-kogen from the path between Mt Ryuo and the ropeway

Magical view of Mt Kosha, Mt Madarao and Mt Myoko

I was glad I was able to complete the roundtrip to Mt Yakebitai as a daytrip from Tokyo, in less than 5 hours at a relatively fast pace. I was also pleased to discover the beautiful Chigo Pond; I couldn’t believe I had it totally to myself. It’s a total mystery why the trail has been abandoned and this place isn’t better known. I was also surprised that the ropeway itself didn’t have more people, although the rainy season might have something to do with this. From the pond, I found a signposted trail heading down into Oku-Shiga, so I hope I can return to do it one day.

Watch a Video of the Mt Yakebitai and Mt Ryuou Hike

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Watch a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Mizusawa (1194m), Shibukawa City, Gunma Prefecture, Monday, June 5th, 2023

I had a chance to go hiking on a weekday, so for once, I wanted to visit a popular mountain. I decided to redo one of the peaks on Mt Haruna, first climbed during Golden Week 2016, via a different route. Back then, it was a short roundtrip off the main trail between Mt Soma, the 2nd highest peak, and Ikaho Hot Spring. This time, I would start from Mizusawa-dera Temple, on the east side of the volcano, and finish again at Ikaho Onsen, since I could get a hot spring bath before heading back. I would take the shinkansen to Takasaki station, and there catch a bus to the temple, my first time to use this bus line. For the return, I could take a bus to Shibukawa station, from where I could catch the Kusatsu Limited Express for Ueno, also my first time to return this way. The weather was supposed to be sunny with some clouds, warm but not too hot, typical for this time of the year. I was looking forward to my first visit to Mt Haruna in nearly 4 years, and what would probably be my last hike before the start of the rainy season.

Hiking on Mt Haruna 榛名山

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View of Mt Komochi (left) and Mt Akagi (right) from near the Summit

Side view of the Steep climb up Mt Mizusawa

It was already very warm as I got off the nearly empty bus at 10am, after a one hour ride from Takasaki. I quickly walked past some Udon restaurants and up a steep staircase. I was impressed by the massive Buddhist gate leading to the 1300 year-old Mizusawa-dera 水沢寺, quite busy with sightseers despite the mid-morning heat. I sat on a bench next to a ancient cedar and got ready for my hike. At 10h30, I ducked under a small red Shinto gate and climbed another steep staircase, as chanting from some Buddhist ceremony drifted up from below.

Walking under Towering Cedars (left) Climbing Log Steps (right)

Steps Difficulty Level 2 (left) Steps Difficulty Level 3 (right)

I followed a path in the shade of towering cedars before finally reaching the start of the trail. At first the logs steps were easy to climb, but they gradually got more chaotic as I reached the steepest part of the climb. However, it never got so tough that I couldn’t enjoy the green spring forest. Just past 11h30, I reached the first viewpoint of the day, on the east side, near a row of small Buddhist statues.

Transition between Levels 1 and 2

Viewpoint near the Buddhist Statues

I had a bird’s-eye view of the wide valley between Mt Haruna and Mt Akagi. On the left side, I could also see Mt Onoko (climbed in January 2016), Mt Komochi, and behind it, Mt Hodaka (climbed in September 2015). After a short break, I continued my hike. Although I passed several people on the way up, I still had long stretches of the trail to myself. I soon passed another viewpoint on the south side, the flat Kanto plan stretching away into the distance; after a short scramble up a rocky section, equipped with ropes for safety, I reached one more viewpoint on the north side, near a pair of tiny shrines.

The Kanto Plain Stretching South

Looking down at the Shoulder

In the distance, I was surprised I could make out Mt Sennokura and Mt Tanigawa, still wearing their winter coats, the haze having already returned just two days after heavy rain. A little further, I reached the top of Mt Mizusawa (水沢山 みずさわやま mizusawa-yama), its prominence barely noticeable along the ridgeline, but with a spectacular 360° panorama. Directly ahead on the west side, I could see the highest peaks of Mt Haruna. To the southwest, were the Chichibu mountains, and to the southeast were Mt Kusatsu-Shirane, Mt Shirasuna and Mt Naeba (climbed in June 2015), its white, flat peak only just visible. It was past noon, so I sat down for some lunch.

The Chichibu Mountains on the Southwest Side

The Highest Peaks of Mt Haruna

After I had my full of the spectacular view on this sunny day, I set off again, around 1h30. After some descending along the forested, rocky ridge, I reached a paved road, and there, turned right along the path for “Tsutsuji-ga-oka”, or Azalea hill, although they were now out of season and no flowers could be seen. I soon reached an open shelter before another road crossing, where I had an impressive side view of the peak I had just climbed. I continued along the easy-to-walk trail, and at 2h30, arrived at the “Tokimeki Deck”, a wooden observation deck near the top of the Haruna Ropeway.

View of Mt Akagi from the Tokimeki Observation Deck

View of Mt Mizusawa from the Tokimeki Observation Deck

I enjoyed this view more than during my two previous visits, since not only had I now crossed the entire Mt Mizusawa ridge on the south side, but also many of the other peaks in the area. Looking north, I could see the hot spring town of Ikaho Onsen, nestled at the base of the mountain. I skipped the ropeway and followed the Fureai no Michi for the last part of the hike. At 3pm, I reached Ikako Shrine, at the top of the famous stone steps that cross the entire town. Almost immediately, I found a hot spring accepting day trippers. After a relaxing bath, I boarded the bus for the short ride to Shibukawa station, where I caught the limited express for the 100-minute comfortable ride back to Tokyo.

Trail past Tsutsuji-ga-oka (left) Staircase leading to Haruna-jinja (right)

Looking down at Ikaho Onsen from Tokimeki Deck

I was glad I could squeeze in this short hike, around 4 hours, just before the start of the rainy season. Although many people were hiking up and down the east side of Mt Mizusawa, there were a lot less people on the west side, so the second half of the hike was more peaceful. I’d like to return in the future to try some more hikes on Mt Haruna, especially now that I discovered the bus from Takasaki and the limited express from Shibukawa; however, whatever route I choose, I am sure I’ll always end with a hot spring bath at Ikaho Onsen.

Watch a Video of the Mt Mizusawa Hike

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Mt Akaguna (1523m), Kanna Town, Gunma Prefecture, Sunday, May 28, 2023 [Mikabo Super Forest Road]

I had been wanting to climb this mountain for a several years, but couldn’t figure out a way to do it as a day trip by bus; even using a share car to reach the trailhead at the Hayataki car park meant a long hike combined with a long drive. In the end, I decided to approach via the “Mikabo Super Rindo”, a 67km forest road that follows the ridgeline from east to west, and passes just below the summit, on the north side. Looking at my hiking map, I noticed I could return via a logging road road on the south side, and thus do a loop hike; it seemed a bit adventurous, requiring me to reply on my GPS. I would take the Takasaki line to Honjo station, where I would switch to a car, and then drive to Shiozawa Pass; I would return via the same route. The weather was supposed to be cloudy most of the day; since no rain was forecast, I still hoped to get some good views. I was looking forward to doing some more exploring of one of the less accessible hiking areas around Tokyo.

First View of Mt Akaguna from the Hiking Trail

Hiking through Green Forest below the Summit

The weather was definitely cloudy as I got off the train at Honjo station around 9am, dashing any hope of sun. Despite the gloomy skies, I enjoyed the drive through Onishi Town and past Kanna Lake, places I had visited on previous hikes. I passed the trail entrances for Mt Mikabo and Mt Tetemiezu, reflecting on how the weather had also been poor on those two hikes. After Kanna Town, I turned right, onto a smaller road leading up the mountain, and parked my car at Shiozawa Pass (塩沢峠), near the junction with the Mikabo Super Rindo (御荷鉾スーパー林道).

The Mikabo Super Forest Road near Mt Akaguna

Green Path and Pink Flowers

I enjoyed the wide view across the valley on the south side: I could see the rounded top of Mt Tetemiezu and the twin peaks of Mt Futago, both on the border of Gunma and Saitama; behind Mt Futago, the summit ridge of Mt Ryokami was hidden in the clouds. I set off at 11h30, and and soon reached the turnoff for the “super-rindo” on the left side. I was glad I had opted to leave my car at the pass; although I could have parked closer to the summit, this gravel road was better suited to walking, bicycling or motorcycling. At noon, I arrived at the trail entrance on the left, as well as an open shelter with a viewpoint.

Light Green Above (left) Light Green Below (right)

Following a Narrow Ridge (left) Walking among the Birches (right)

The view of the Kanto Plain to the east was completely in the clouds; I could only imagine what it looked like on a clear day. I followed the up and down ridge trail westwards, through light green forest; occasionally the vroom of a motorcycle interrupted the background noise of buzzing insects, a reminder of the nearby forest road, mostly hidden by the trees. At the top of a grassy slope, I stumbled upon a cluster of bright red azalea (“tsutsuji“), always a nice surprise, even though I had seen hundreds the previous week.

View of the Top of Mt Akaguna from the Forest Road

Pylon next to the Forest Road (left) Surrounded by Green (right)

I reached the best viewpoint of the day just before 1pm, as I passed through an area clear of trees on the south side. The clouds had thinned and the sun was now shining on the rolling, forested mountains; Mt Ryokami’s ragged ridgetop was now visible; a power line stretched down into the valley, suspended between giant pylons, creating a dramatic effect from where I stood; directly ahead, at the end of a long ridge, was the tree-covered top of Mt Akaguna. Past a pylon, the trail merged with the forest road, but after a short distance, headed up the ridgeline again, along the East Route (東コース).

Power Line Diving into the Valley

Ridgeline Leading to the Summit of Mt Akaguna

This was by far the nicest section of today’s hike, the trail alternating between level and gently climbing portions, giving me ample time to take in the surrounding scenery. After a steep section, the trail merged with the North Route (北コース); a few minutes later, I reached the summit of Mt Akaguna (赤久縄山 あかぐなやま akaguna-yama), a Gunma and a Kanto 100 famous mountain. It was about 1h30, so I sat on a low bench for some lunch; although there was no view, looking up, I could see a huge patch of blue sky. At 2pm, I headed back down the West Route, and then followed the Forest Road till the start of the alternate trail back to Shiozawa Pass.

The Usual Hiking Trail is along this Ridge

Walking through a Green Wonderland

It was a challenge to find the main logging road after leaving the Super-Rindo, even with using the GPS on my phone, as many minor offshoots crisscrossed the mountain side. I was relieved when I finally reached one with a signpost for Shiozawa Pass, a little before 3pm. After an easy, slightly downhill stroll, I was back at my parked car, less than half an hour later. As it was still early, I drove a short way to the start of the trail of Mt Odoke (オドケ山). It took 30 minutes to complete the loop hike; although the summit was in the trees, I was impressed by the fancy new, bright red signposts. At 4pm, I set off for the return drive, arriving back at Honjo station just before 6pm.

Walking back along the Mikabo Super Forest Road

One of the many Logging Roads in the Area

I was glad to be able to check this mountain off my to-climb list after so many years, even though I had to settle for a 3h30 hike, about half the time it would have taken from the trailhead at the base; maybe one day I’ll return to do the whole hike, although it would require an overnight stay. I’d also like to explore more of the Mikabo Super Forest Road, on foot or by bicycle, as there are many viewpoints along the way. Hopefully I can do this on a blue sky day.

Watch a Video of the Mt Akaguna Hike

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Ido Marsh (1278m), Kanuma City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday, May 21, 2023

I discovered this spot in Mae-Nikko on a hike in December 2018, and since then, had wanted to visit again, but in a different season. However, as it took 4 hours of uphill walking to reach from the closest bus stop at Furumine Shrine, this time I decided to go by car; I could park at the Mae-Nikko Highland lodge, just a short distance from the trail entrance. As the loop of the marsh was relatively short, I also decided to combine it with lunch at a famous soba restaurant in the area. I would take the Utsunomiya line to Oyama station, and there change to the Ryoma line for the short ride to Tochigi station, where I would switch to a share car. It was supposed to be a sunny and warm spring day, and so I was looking forward to an easy, relaxing hike in a secluded area deep in the mountains of Tochigi.

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View of Ido Marsh from the South Side

Walkway Through the Marsh

I drove for about an hour under grey skies, reaching Kamiyama, a soba restaurant situated at the end of a valley, far from any populated areas. Despite its remote location, a line of people was already waiting outside at 11h30; it took nearly an hour before I was seated. Fortunately it was worth the wait: I enjoyed some of the best soba I had ever had. At 1pm, I drove back down the valley, and then up a parallel one towards Kasuo Pass (粕尾峠), hoping that the sun would come out soon.

Gravel Path Through Mae-Nikko Highland

Bright Red Azalea on the way to Ido Marsh

Mist blocked the view in every direction, as I parked the car at the Mae-Nikko Highland Lodge’前日光ハイランドロッジ) parking just after 2pm; I was grateful that I had had clear weather on my last visit. I strolled along a gravel road, pastures on each side, no cows in sight though; after passing an open shelter, I arrived at the trail entrance on the left side around 3pm.

Walkway Leading to Godan-no-Taki Falls

Tsutsuji Flowers of Every Colour

I was stunned by the azelea (tsutsuji) in full bloom; until now I had never realised that they existed in such a wide range of colors, from white to pink to bright red. The trail soon started to descend; after crossing a stream, I had my first glimpse of the day of Ido Marsh (井戸湿原 ido-shitsugen), next to another open shelter. It felt like I had entered a colourful, magical fantasyland, and I could only imagine what this fantastic scenery would be like on a sunny day.

View of Ido Marsh from the South Side

Walkway Crossing the Marsh

I was surprised by how few people were on the trail, as I made my way clockwise around the marsh. Around 3h30, I reached Godan-no-taki (五段の滝), a small waterfall with 5 “steps”, and the lowest point of today’s hike. After a short climb, I reached a section free of trees on the south side of the marsh, from where I had some best views of the day. At 4pm, I reached a wooden walkway cutting across the marshland; I decided to head back along it, rather than continue to the Zoonohana observation deck (象の鼻展望台 meaning the elephant’s trunk) as no would view would be had today.

A Secret Spot of Mae-Nikko

Most of the Hike is on Walkways (left) Entrance of Ido Marsh (right)

I was able to enjoy the splendour of the azaleas again, as I did the trail in reverse, sometimes passing through actual tunnels of flowers, the surrounding mist enhancing the magical atmosphere. At 4h30, I was back at the parking lot, my car being one of the last left. I decided to return via a different route, past Furumine shrine, and was rewarded with a view of a monkey walking near the road; on the way up, I had also spotted a racoon crossing the road. At 6pm, I was back at Tochigi station, from where it was a one hour ride back to Ikebukuro with the Tobu Revaty limited express train.

Nearing the End of the Hike

Entrance to the “Azalea Tunnel“

At around two hours, this was one of my shorter hikes, and even if I had included the observation desk, it would not have been much longer. Even though the mist was in, hiding the view of the Oku-Nikko mountains, the flowers in full bloom made the 3 hour trip each way worthwhile. I’d like to return in the future to do the “fureai no michi” trail that passes through the area, as well as check out another local soba restaurant.

Watch a Video of the Ido Marsh Hike

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See a Slideshow with more Pictures of the Ido Marsh Hike

Sayama Hills (Highest Point 194m), Tokyo & Saitama Prefectures, Tuesday, May 9, 2023 [Nawatake Forest Road]

I had visited the forested hills around Sayama Lake earlier in the year, but felt like exploring the area some more; I decided to do a morning hike since the parks sit comfortably within the city. I would start from a prominent hill on the north side, then follow a forest road leading to the south side, a shortcut for the perimeter road I followed in January; from there, I would go up and down some hills in the southwest corner of the park; finally, I would leave the hills on the west side, hopefully reaching a bus stop by noon. It was supposed to be fine spring day, sunny with comfortable temperatures; it had rained hard the day before, so the air would be crisp and clear. As before, I would take the local Seibu line to Kotesashi station, and then a bus along the north side of the lake; I could catch the same bus back from the end of the line. I was looking forward to an easy morning hike through a nature park within Tokyo.

Hiking in the Sayama Natural Park 都立狭山自然公園

May 2024 update: the Nawatake Forest Road is closed till at least 2026 due to fallen trees from typhoons in 2023

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Trail Leading to Akasaka

Top of Hira Hill

It was still pleasantly cool when I got off the bus at 9am next to a small shrine shrine under some cedars. After passing Kinsenji Temple, I turned left onto a lane leading up a hill, called Hira Hill (比良の丘 ひらのおか 155m), next to Midori no Mori Nature Park. The flat top area is used for farming, and walking among the fields, it felt like I had suddenly been transported to the countryside. It was now 9h30 so I had breakfast at a table under a huge Japanese Bird Cherry, probably a nice place for a picnic during the sakura season.

Signboard for Totoro’s Forest

Flower Field at the Top of Hira Hill

I was impressed by the serenity of this spot so close to the city. Nearby was a signboard for Totoro’s Forest #13, # 18 and #49. At the moment, there are 57 off these protected parcels of forestland. To the north, I had a view of the city between two wooded areas; on the south side, Sayama lake was hidden behind a forested ridge. This whole area of hills and forests surrounding the lake is known as the Sayama Hills (狭山丘陵), one of the main features of the Musashino Plateau. I soon set off in the direction of the lake, heading down a faint footpath, and entering the forest, past a bridge across a creek.

Cherry Tree on Hira Hill (left) Forest Path to the Perimeter Road (right)

Walking the Nawatake Forest Road

I was stunned by the beauty of the forest, enhanced by the play of sunlight on the light green leaves, as I made my way up a switchback path. A little before 1oam, I reached the top of the ridge and the Sayama Perimeter road. I turned right, and after a few minutes, arrived at the gated entrance of the Nawatake Forest road on the left side. After passing through the door on the side, I made my way along the gravel path, surrounded by thick forest and silence, punctuated by intermittent birdsong.

A Green Corridor Within the City

South Side of the Sayama Perimeter Road

It felt like I had entered a secret section of the park: I saw few other people, birdwatchers with huge cameras, walking under the shade of trees crowding in on each side. Past Nawatake bridge (縄竹橋), where I had glimpse of the lake on the left, the path headed gently uphill for a while; less than half an hour later, I arrived at another gate, where the forest road rejoined the Perimeter Road. I soon ducked down a path on the right side, and at a parking lot, turned right onto a wooden walkway along Akasaka-yato (赤坂谷戸), a marshy area at the bottom of a valley.

Path Leading to Akasaka

Walking in the Akasaka Valley (left) Walking Down the Western Side (right)

It felt like I was walking through a hidden valley, lush vegetation on both sides. After some ups and downs, I arrived at Satoyama-minka (里山民家), a recreated traditional farmhouse from the Edo era, at the edge of the forest. It was past 11am, and I was behind schedule, so I skipped a visit, and headed up a charming valley, filled with paddy fields, and frogs, judging from the croaking noises. After a short climb through forest, I reached the observatory at the top of Mt Rokudo, merging with my previous hike. Heading west, I passed the triangulation point, and soon turned left onto a path down the hill side.

Viewpoint of the Okutama Mountains

End of the Hike at Takane

I arrived at a viewpoint of the Okutama mountains, the outlook partially obscured by trees, but I could still make out Mt Kawanori in the middle. After descending a log staircase, I reached the Takane residential area at the base of the hill, and after walking along a road for a short while, made it to the bus stop at Miyadera-Nishi just before noon. The hike had taken 3 hours as planned, although I had to speed up the pace at the end. I’d definitely like to return in the autumn to explore more trails, as well as visit the Satoyama Farmhouse.

See a video of the Sayama Hills Hike

See the video of the hike on Youtube

Mt Usuiri (421m), Mt Kannokura (344m) & Mt Sekison (344m), Higashi-Chichibu Village & Ogawa Town, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, April 29, 2023

I wanted to take advantage of the comfortable spring weather to do a short hike close to Tokyo. I had already climbed Mt Kannokura and Mt Sekison in 2016, going up via Tennou Pond, and then down past Kitamuki-fudo, both on the north side. Looking at my hiking map, I saw I could approach them again via a different route: along the ridge on the west side, and then head back down on the south side, creating a slightly longer hike. I would take a bus from Ogawamachi station on the Tobu line to a stop close to the trail entrance; from the end of the hike, I could catch the same bus back from a stop closer to the station. The weather was supposed to be overcast with sun from time to time, and so I was looking forward to some easy hiking near home.

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View north of the Kanto Plain Near Mt Usuiri

Mt Sekison from Mt Kannokura (June 2016)

Grey clouds hung overhead as I got off the bus near the Higashi-Chichibu Village Hall a little after 10h30. After getting ready, I made my way to a stone Shinto gate and staircase leading to Okusawa Shrine, which I reached a little after 11am. It was surrounded by bamboo, but on the left side, I found the trail entrance, marked by a light blue metallic signpost.

Trail leading up to Mt Usuiri

Near the top of Mt Usuiri (left) On the way to Mt Kannokura (right)

I was excited to find a new hiking trail so close to Tokyo. The path climbed steadily through mixed forest; shortly before noon, I arrived at the summit of Mt Usuiri (臼入山 うすいりやま usuiriyama). Through the trees on the west side, I had a partial view of the ridgeline between Mt Oogiri and Mt Toya in eastern Chichibu. After a short break, I followed the trail through the cedars, down the east side of the summit.

Looking back at Mt Usuiri

View North from a Clearing past Mt Usuiri

I reached the first good viewpoint of the day about half an hour later. It was a deforested area next to a road over a pass. The clouds had dissipated and blue sky was visible again. On the north side, I could see the long ridge extending east beyond Mt Kanetsukido. I sat down on some tree trunks for some lunch in the sun and with a view. At 1pm, I set off again, crossing the road and up a short steep slope.

View North of Chichibu Past Mt Usuiri

View of Mt Sekison from Mt Kannokura

It felt very peaceful as I followed the up and down ridgeline trail, completely in the trees. At 1h30, reached the junction with my previous hike. From there, it was a short climb to the top of Mt Kannokura (官ノ倉山 かんのくらやま kannokura-yama). The clouds had reappeared and the view wasn’t as good as during my last visit. On the north side, I could see the Chichibu mountains and the Kanto Plain; directly ahead was the rounded peak of today’s final summit.

View North of Chichibu from Mt Kannokura

View of Chichibu and the Kanto Plain from Mt Kannokura

After a short descent, followed by an equally short ascent, I reached the top of Mt Sekison (石尊山 せきそんさん sekison-san) around 2pm. The view on the north side was similar to before, but now, I also had a view of Ogawa Town to the south. There were more hikers here so I quickly moved on. On my last hike, I had continued along a trail past the summit. This time, I retraced my steps a short way, and took a path heading down on the left side; although it wasn’t properly signposted, the trail was in good condition.

View of Ogawa Town from Mt Sekison

Hiking Down from Mt Sekison

Half way down, I passed through what seemed like a hidden valley: a grassy, flat area surrounded by trees, only the blue sky visible overhead. It was an interesting spot that wasn’t marked on the map. A short way beyond, I passed the ruins of an old fort, its access unfortunately closed off for some reason. I then descended a narrow valley with many Irises (“shaga”) along the way, and emerged onto a road just before 3h30. The bus stop was a short distance away; once back at Ogawamachi station, I caught the express train for the one hour ride to Ikebukuro.

A Hidden Valley on the Way Down from Mt Sekison

Easy Hiking Near the End of the Hike

I was glad to redo these mountains via a different route although the weather wasn’t as good as the first time, when I could see as far as Mt Akagi and Mt Haruna. Since it’s less than 4 hours, it’s a really short hike that can’t be stretched any longer without heading up another ridgeline; going up and down the route on the north side is even shorter, less than 2 hours. Next time, it might be interesting to head up in the winter for a clearer view, and also check out the nearby Michi no Eki, Washi-no-sato, as well as a local soba shop.

See a Video of the Mt Usuiri, Mt Kannokura and Mt Sekison Hike

See the video of the hike on Youtube

See a Slideshow of Some More Pictures of the Mt Sekison Hike

Mt Usuiri from Mt Kannokura (June 2016)

East Chichibu from Mt Kannokura (June 2016)

Mt Yagura (599m), Kanuma City, Tochigi Prefecture, Saturday April 22, 2023

Exactly five years ago, I had climbed Mt Mitsumine, a hike recommended in my mountains of Tochigi guidebook. Looking at my hiking maps, I noticed another peak directly opposite, not featured in my guidebook. Further research showed that the trail wasn’t in optimal condition, but since I was eager to revisit the area, I thought I would give it a go. I would take the Nikko line from Ikebukuro to Tochigi station, and from there, a bus to the Hoshino Archaeological site. I would take the most direct way to the summit, up the valley, and then return via the longer ridge route on the north side. For the return, I could take the same bus and train back. The weather was supposed to be good once again, and I was looking forward to a peaceful hike and some good views.

View South from the Summit

Trail-finding needed during the Descent

Carp streamers were flapping in the spring breeze as I waited for the minibus bus outside Tochigi station around 1030; I was the only passenger for most of the one-hour ride. I had a quick look at the Jomon era huts of the Hoshino Archaeological site (星野遺跡), and admired the stunning view of Mt Mitsumine directly opposite, before setting off a little after 11h30. Shortly past the village, I entered the forest and soon reached the start of the trail, following a disused forest road.

Mt Mitsumine from near the Trail Entrance

Obstacle Course up the Mountain

I had to clamber over, and pass under, countless fallen trees, before the path left the narrow valley, and headed directly up a steep slope. I had rarely experienced such a challenging and adventurous start, and without my phone GPS to show me the correct way, it would have taken a lot more time. I was glad when I finally reached a flat area on the top ridge, refreshingly cool in the shade of the new green of spring.

Flat Area on the Ridgeline

Nearly at the top (left) TV Antenna on the Summit (right)

I was surrounded by bright red Azalea on both sides, as I followed the ridgeline southwards through the green forest. A little after 1pm, I reached the summit of Mt Yagura (谷倉山 やぐらさん yagura-san), a Tochigi 100 famous mountain. I dropped my pack next to the TV antenna, and went to enjoy the wide view on the other side: directly ahead, to the south, was the Kanto plain; on the east side, I could spot Mt Futamata in the distance.

View East towards Kanuma City

View West from the Summit

I was surprised to see that most of the trees on the south side had been cut down. I took a break for lunch, and at 2pm, retraced my steps past the spot I had joined the ridge, and from there continued northwards. After an up and down section, the path curved west and started to head down. Here again, the trail was hard to follow and I had to rely on my phone GPS. From time to time, I had glimpses of a flat valley and green hills on the north side through the trees. I saw no other hikers during the entire hike and it felt very peaceful.

Following the Ridgeline up and down

Walking down through the forest

I was nearly level with the base of the valley when the trail suddenly disappeared. After fighting my way through some thick bushes, I finally emerged onto a grassy path next shrine, just a few minutes from the bus stop. It was just past 3h30 and had a little time to cool down before catching the 4pm bus for Tochigi station, about an hour away from Ikebukuro by limited express.

Back in the Valley

Mt Mitsumine from the end of the Trail

Although this hike took only 4 hours, it could have taken longer without my phone GPS. It’s a shame that the trail sections near the start and finish are unmaintained and hard to find, although it does guarantee some solitary hiking. On the summit, I discovered an unmarked path following the southwest ridge, so it might be interesting to try that in the future, especially since it is relatively close to Tokyo.

Watch a Video of the Mt Yagura Hike

See a Slideshow of some more pictures of the Mt Yagura Hike

Noborio (1056m) & the Odoriko Trail, Kawazu Town, Shizuoka Prefecture, Sunday, April 16, 2023

During my Shimoda trip, I was reminded of the Odoriko Trail in Kawazu, inspired by the Dancing Girl of Izu novel. Although I was interested in hiking its entire length (18.5 km), I also wanted to climb a summit in the area. I had found a nearby peak in my mountains of Shizuoka guidebook, which I could combine with part of the Dancing Girl Trail. Apparently the upper part of the trail was hard to follow, so I would need to rely on my phone GPS to stay on track; on the other hand, the Odoriko trail was supposed to be well signposted and easy to follow. After riding the Shinkansen to Mishima, and then a local train line to Shuzenji, I would take a bus to a stop just past the Amagi Pass Tunnel, and then walk up a road towards Hatcho Pond to the trail entrance. After reaching the summit and heading back along the same path, I would follow the Odoriko Trail to Kawazu Nanadaru, or the 7 waterfalls of Kawazu, from where I could catch the same bus back to Shuzenji. The weather was supposed to perfect all day so I was looking forward to a relaxing hike in a familiar area.

Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

First glimpse of Noborio

View of the Izu Peninsula from near the Summit

It was a blue-sky spring day as I rode the empty bus up towards Amagi Pass tunnel. The stop was next to a parking with an open shelter, so I could sit down and get ready for my hike. At 11am, I headed up some steps through the forest and soon reached a minor road, part of the Odoriko trail. There, I turned left, and after a few minutes, arrived at Nikai Waterfall (二階滝). It was hard to see it well even with the observation deck, so I quickly moved on, reaching Kanten bridge and the road for Hatcho Pond shortly after.

Past Kanten Bridge (left) Under the Cedars (right)

View of Noborio from the Road to Hatcho Pond

It was an enjoyable walk, alongside a rushing river, surrounded by trees covered in new green, and occasionally passing under tall cedars swaying in the spring breeze. Just before noon, at a bend in the road, I had my first views of today’s peak, at the end of an undulating ridgeline, part of Amagi Volcano. Shortly after, I spotted a signpost for the start of the trail on the right. After crossing the river on a small wooden bridge, I headed straight up the mountain through the cedars, and upon reaching a pass, turned right along the wide ridgeline.

View of the Noborio Summit Ridge

River Crossing near the Trail Entrance

From this point, the trail became faint, requiring me to rely on my phone GPS. The wind started to blow in gusts, and although the sun was shining directly above, it actually felt a bit chilly. From time to time, I had glances of the Pacific ocean through the cedars on the east side; further on, I had a glimpse of Mt Fuji, through trees still bare of leaves to the west. A little before 1pm, I reached the top of Noborio (登り尾 のぼりお), a 100 famous mountain of Shizuoka. It was completely in the trees, but a short distance from the summit marker, I found a viewpoint on the southeast side.

Some Trail-finding needed along the Ridgeline

View of Kawazu and Eastern Izu

I had an stunning view of southeastern Izu, rows of green ridges ending at the Pacific ocean. Directly below, I could see the Kawazu Nadadaru Loop Bridge, close to the end of today’s hike; far away to the south, I could make out the top of Mt Nesugata. After a break, I headed back the same way, faster now, since I knew the way. I enjoyed the peace and quiet of the surrounding forest, within the confines of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park; no other hikers had ventured along this lonely ridgeline. At 2pm, I was back on the road, and half an hour later, was finally walking along the Odoriko Trail, the road soon turning into a wide gravel path.

Walking the Odoriko Trail

Hiraname Falls along the Odoriko Trail

It was a pleasant ramble in the shade, welcome on a warm day, the path lazily hugging the valley side. Suddenly, the trail turned right, crossed the Shuzenji-Kawazu road, and after a short descent through the forest, arrived at the impressive Hiraname Falls (平滑の滝) on the Kawazu river. It was a little past 3pm and I was right on schedule, so I stopped for a break in this sunny, secluded spot. I soon set off again and crossed a wooden bridge, passing above fenced wasabi fields along the river. The next part was more adventurous, following the steep valley side along metal walkways and wooden staircases. At 4pm, I was walking on a straight path under towering cedars.

Kawazu River from the Odoriko Trail

Nameless Waterfall along the Kawazu River

It felt like I was walking down an ancient avenue, perhaps the part of the hike that most reminded me of the Dancing Girl of Izu story. After rounding a bend, I arrived at the top of a long wooden staircase taking me down to Saruta Depth (猿田淵), a deep pool of water on the Kawazu river, a foretaste of the seven falls to come. Further downstream, I reached a junction for the thundering Kama-daru fall (釜滝). I only had a little time before my bus back and since I had seen all 7 falls on a previous trip, I erred on the side of caution. I turned left, up the steps leading out of the deep valley, arriving at the bus stop at 4h30. Two hours later, I was back in Mishima, a one hour ride with the Kodama shinkansen back to Tokyo.

Walking the Odoriko Trail between Kaname Falls and Kawazu

Walking down to Saruta Depth

The whole hike took less than 6 hours, which is about as long as one could hope for considering the the distance and travel time from Tokyo. If I had been a bit faster, I could have walked past the seven waterfalls, about 1km, and caught the bus further down the road; it would have brought the total tally of waterfalls on the hike to ten. The hike up and down the Noborio ridge was a pleasant surprise; it’s hard to imagine one getting lost on the short section without a proper trail, but the GPS ensured it went smoothly. Another surprise is that I saw no other hikes all day, even along the Odoriko trail. I hope to return one day to explore the other half, through the Old Amagi tunnel (headlight required) although I doubt I will get to see as many falls as today.

Watch a Video of the Mt Noborio and Odoriko Trail

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Kuro (798m), Kannami Town and Atami City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Sunday, April 9, 2023

I found out about this peak along the Izu skyline while researching my trip to Shimoda, and resolved to climb it on a future hike. Looking at my map, I saw I could traverse from west to east, starting from the side closest to Mishima city, and ending on the Atami side. It seemed like a relatively short hike, but I knew the views would be amazing on a clear weather day. I would take the shinkansen to Atami, then transfer to the Tokaido line for a couple of stops to Kannami station, and there board a Tokai bus to a stop just a short distance on foot from the trailhead. At the end, I could catch a bus back to Atami station from near the trail entrance. The forecast called for blue skies all day, and so I was looking forward to some Mt Fuji views along a relatively easy hike.

Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

View between Kori Pond and the Mt Kuro Viewpoint

Bench with a view close to the Mt Kuro Viewpoint

I enjoyed the view of the the cherry blossoms in full bloom while I waited for the bus at Kannami station. After a short ride, I got off at a stop in the middle of the fields, opposite an “honor system” vegetable stand, and after getting ready, set off along quiet country lanes, a little before 11am. I was in high spirits, excited to explore an area I had never been to before.

View of the Izu Skyline from near the Tanna Fault

Cherry Blossoms in Full Bloom near the Trail Entrance

On my left, I had a view of the green, undulating ridgeline along which ran the Izu skyline and which I would soon be climbing; behind me, was Mt Fuji, still wearing its snowy winter coat. I soon passed through Tanna Fault park (丹那断層公) commemorating a massive earthquake that hit the area nearly 100 years ago, a sobering reminder of nature destructive power.

Green Meadows and White Volcanoes

Sun & New Green (left) Tall Cedars & Shade (right)

Later, I passed some green meadows, reminding me of Switzerland, except for the solitary yaezakura (“double-layered cherry blossom tree”) in the foreground and Mt Fuji in the background. At 11h30, I reached the trail entrance, and after climbing through mixed forest, towering cedars, and finally a bamboo grass tunnel, I reached Kori pond (氷ヶ池), located under a curve of the Izu skyline.

Rocks on the Trail (left) Through the Bamboo Tunnel (right)

First Glimpse of the Summit

I gazed in wonder at the magical view of Mt Fuji rising above the pond. After a short break, I made my way back along the pond side to an intersection passed previously, and then up a steep path, equipped with rope for safety. The bamboo grass was much shorter now, and a panoramic view of the entire area was slowly emerging all around me. I turned around frequently to admire the view of Hakone volcano on the north side.

Mt Fuji and Kori Pond

Trail Alongside Kori Pond

At 1pm, I reached the best view of the day: a single bench just a few minutes away from the Mt Kuro Second Viewpoint (玄岳第二展望台), which I had visited by car in the winter. Directly ahead was Mt Fuji, with Mt Ashitaka on its left, and Mt Hakone on its right; beyond was Suruga bay and the Minami Alps. Looking down, I could see the dark green lowlands stretch all the way to Numazu City.

View of Hakone Volcano above Kori Pond

View of Mt Fuji, Mt Ashitaka (center) and the Numazu Alps (left)

I waited for a break in the procession of roaring motorbikes before quickly crossing the skyline, and then proceeded up the final climb. As I made my way up the grassy, rounded summit, the view gradually opened up on the south side, and I could now see the Numazu Alps and the mountainous interior of Izu peninsula, culminating in Mt Amagi. At 1h30, I reached the flat top of Mt Kuro (玄岳 くろたけ kurotake), a Shizuoka 100 famous mountain.

Final Climb to the Summit

Looking Back at the Izu Skyline and Atami Resort

Curiously, the view was slightly less dramatic from the top, since I no longer had the soaring views looking down at the flat coastal area, nearly 800 meters below. I had the summit entirely to myself, most people preferring the drive the skyline and enjoy the views from the many parking areas along the way. I took a break for lunch, enjoying the picture-perfect view of Mt Fuji and the comfortable early spring weather. At 2pm, I headed down a path on the north side.

Panoramic View of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu Area

Nearly at the Top

As I walked down, I had a bird’s eye view of Atami resort and the coastline of eastern Izu. Here and there, yamazakura (mountain cherry blossom tree) in full bloom dotted the mountain side. The peace and quiet was often interrupted by the revving of engines; I picked up the pace so I could get to the quieter side of the mountain. I tarried a short while in a spot with plenty of asebi (Japanese Andromeda flower; by 2pm, I was following a trail down through mixed forest.

View of Mt Fuji and Hakone

Heading Down to Atami

I savoured the silence and relished in the new green of spring surrounding me in all directions. Just before 3pm, after passing a bamboo forest, I reached a steep downhill road at the edge of a town, which I followed into the valley, till it merged with a wider road with a bus stop. Once back at Atami station, I boarded the shinkansen for the lightening fast 45-minute trip back to Tokyo.

Easy Hiking Through Mixed Forest

Bamboo Forest at the End of the Trail

In December 2022, I drove along the Izu Skyline between Atami and Mt Amagi and was impressed by the many viewpoints on both sides. It was a good season to drive there since the weather was clear and not too cold, and there was relatively little traffic. In the future, I’d like to do it in reverse so that I can better enjoy the views of Mt Fuji.

View of Kori Pond from the Izu Skyline (Dec 2022)

View of Atami from the Izu Skyline (Dec 2022)

I was very satisfied with the hike mainly because of the great views but also because of the near total absence of other hikers. If I were to redo it, I would probably go by car and start from the Mt Kuro viewpoint, since it’s possible to do a loop hike with all the views.

Watch a video of the Mt Kuro Hike

See the View from the Izu Skyline (December 2022)

See a slideshow of other pictures from the Mt Kuro Hike

Mt Monomi (375m), Mt Sukari (435m), Mt Fukazawa (350m) & Mt Atago (250m), Moroyama Town and Hanno City, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, April 1st, 2023

I wanted to do a hike close to Tokyo to enjoy the cherry blossoms in full bloom. I decided to go to Oku-musashi and climb Mt Monomi for a second time. The first time, I had done a roundtrip from Mt Hiwada; this time, I would do a traverse from Lake Kamakita to Musashi-Yokote Station. I could get to the start of the trail by taking the Tobu line to Higashi-Moro station, then walk to the Moro Town Hall, from where I could catch the “Moro Bus Yuzu-go 1” to the lake; for the return, I would use the Seibu-Chichibu line. Once again, the forecast called for sunny weather and comfortable temperatures, and so I was looking forward to a relaxing spring hike close to home.

Trail between Shukuya Waterfall and Mt Monomi

View from the top of Mt Sukari

I was greeted by a flurry of pink petals as I got off the yellow mini-bus at Kamakita Lake just after 11am. After enjoying the “sakura” trees in full bloom, I set off along the Shukuya-Kamakita Hiking Route (宿谷鎌北湖ハイキングコース), arriving at Shukuya Waterfall (宿谷の滝) around noon. I was impressed by the wild beauty of this river valley, especially since it was so close to Tokyo. I followed the river upstream, sunlight streaming through the treetops. I soon arrived at the Shukuya small waterfall (宿谷小滝), a local power spot. After charging up, I left the river behind, and continued up a steep ridgeline.

Cherry Blossoms next to Kamakita Lake

A secret cherry blossom spot close to Tokyo

I had my first views of the day after reaching an area cleared of trees, near the top part of the ridge. At 1pm, after crossing a road, I arrived at the top of Mt Monomi (物見山 ものみやま monomi-yama), almost completely in the trees. After a short break, I turned right onto a wider trail through the cedars, and soon reached a crossroads at Kitamukijizo (北向地蔵), intersecting with my previous hike in the area. I continued along the Oku-Musashi Green Line for a while, before taking a trail on the right, passing the top of Mt Kannon-ga-take (観音ヶ岳 425m), and then arriving at the nearby summit of Mt Sukari (スカリ山 すかりやま) around 1h30.

Trail above Kamakita Lake (left) Shukuya Waterfall (right)

Hiking the Shukuya-Kamakita Lake Trail

The green hills of Oku-Musashi stretched away on the north side, and the Kanto Plain extended into the distance on the east side. Trees blocked the views in other directions, but provided some welcome shade as I sat down on a bench for a late lunch. Afterwards, I retraced my steps to Kitamukijizo and headed along a mostly level path for Musashi-Yokote station. At 2h30, I passed by the minor summit of Nishi-Omine (西大峰 390m), completely in the trees, and just before 3pm, reached the top of Mt Fukazawa (深沢山 ふかざわやま fukazawa-yama), its name meaning “deep stream”, although no water could be seen or heard.

Viewpoint along the way to Mt Monomi

View of the Kanto Plain from Mt Sukari

I had a view of some “yamazakura” or Mountain Cherry Trees in full bloom, growing on the forested summit, while taking a short break on a solitary bench. Since leaving the Green Line, I had seen no other hikers and was able to fully enjoy the peace and quiet of the surrounding forest. After a short steep descent, I passed by the minor summit Mt Suisho (水晶山 266m), also completely in the trees, and a little later, passed under a crossing of two electrical power lines, a modern kind of power spot.

Hiking near Nishi-Omine (left) Hiking near Mt Suisho (right)

Hiking near Mt Fukuzawa

I was charmed by the many carved wood figures placed above the signs along this little known, but well-maintained trail. At 3h30, I reached the final summit of the day, Mt Atago (愛宕山 あたごやま atago-yama), also the location of a small shrine. However its most stunning aspect were the many cherry blossoms trees in full bloom on the valley side. Beyond, I could see Hanno City on the south side, and Mt Kamado across the valley on the west side. A couple of wood-carved binoculars supposedly allowed one to see the Tokyo Sky Tree and Mt Fuji, although today they were simply invisible.

View towards Hanno from Mt Atago

View of Mt Kamado from the summit of Mt Atago

After one last look at the carvings, golden in the late afternoon sunlight, I headed downhill along a steep path through cedar forest. At 4pm, I reached Chonen-ji Temple (長念寺) at the base of the mountain and next to the busy Hanno-Chichibu road. After crossing Koma river, I took a shortcut along a back lane to Musashi-Yokote station; there I boarded the Seibu-Chichibu line for the short ride to Hanno station, where I transferred to the Laview limited express for the comfortable 40-minute ride back to Ikebukuro.

Afternoon light shining on the Mt Atago Shrine

Cherry blossom trees at the end of the hike

This hike took me about five hours, but could have been shortened by one hour if I had skipped the roundtrip to Mt Sukari. I was glad to have discovered a great trail next to the Koma valley, and that I was able to do it while the cherry blossoms were still at their best. Since it’s so close to Tokyo, I hope to be able to do redo it one day in the autumn.

See a Video of the Mt Monomi, Mt Sukari, Mt Fukazawa & Mt Atago Hike

See a slideshow of more pictures of the hike