Short Hike – Page 5 – Hiking Around Tokyo

Mt Amamaki (533m) & Mt Mitsutoya (433m), Mashiko Town, Tochigi Prefecture, Saturday, March 2, 2024

I wanted to revisit a mountain in Ibaraki I had climbed six years ago. According to my guidebook, a network of trails existed on the other side, in Tochigi, allowing me to create a loop hike. I could combine it with another peak on the same ridge. Since no buses run in the area, I would need to drive a car from Mito station, one hour away. The hike was on the short side, so I could get an early lunch at one of the many soba restaurants dotted throughout the countryside, and then start walking from the early afternoon. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny but cold for the season, with temperatures slightly above freezing at the highest point. I was looking forward to visiting a hard to access, but rewarding hiking area close to Tokyo.

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Walking the Summit Ridge (left) A well-maintained Trail (right)

Trail Before (left) and After (right) Mt Mitsutoya

I got a good look at the plum blossoms of Kairakuen Park in full bloom, as the Hitachi limited express approached Mito station just before 10am. Shortly after getting off the Kita-Kanto expressway, I reached Donjuan (呑珠庵) where I enjoyed one of the best soba lunches in a long while. After driving a little further, I arrived at the Okawado parking lot (大川戸登山口駐車場) and was finally ready to start hiking just before 1am. The weather was cloudier than forecast, although the sun was shining as I followed a forest road up a river valley and through a cedar forest.

Trail just below the Summit of Mt Amamaki

Summit of Mt Amamaki

I was delighted to be hiking alongside a stream, the noise of the water rushing over rocks was like music to my ears. Eventually, the forest road turned into a rocky trail. Thirty minutes after setting out, I arrived at a fork where I turned right, onto the Mt Amamaki Ridge Route (雨巻山尾根コース). After a short, steep climb up a well-maintained path, I reached the ridgeline. There, I turned left, and after some gentle climbing surrounded by bare trees, arrived at the summit of Mt Amamaki (雨巻山あままきやま amamaki-yama), a Tochigi and Kanto 100-famous mountain, a little after 2pm. On the west side, I could see Mt Takamine, Mt Bucho, and further away Mt Yakimori and Mt Keisoku.

View from the Top of Mt Amamaki

The Rounded Summit of Mt Bucho

I was surprised to find the summit completely deserted despite the nearly full parking lot at the base. I sat at one of the benches for a short break before heading back the same way. I continued past the top of the Ridge Route, now following the Mt Mitsutoya Ridge Route (三登谷山大根コース), a mostly level path through the trees. I soon reached a bench with a view of the Ashio mountains on the west side: I could see the highest peaks of Oku-Nikko, the pointy top of Mt Sukai, and the many summits of Mt Akagi. Another half an hour of walking brought me to one more viewpoint, this time on the south side. I could see the Ogodo Alps directly ahead, as well as Mt Tsukuba in the distance.

View West of the Ashio Mountains

Late Afternoon Sun and the Ogodo Alps

I was mesmerized by the colours of the late afternoon sun rays, piercing the clouds on the south side. Soon after, I arrived at Mt Mitsutoya (三登谷山みつとやさん mitsutoya-san). Westwards, I could see the Oku-Nikko mountains, Mt Takahara and Mt Nasu; directly ahead, and much closer was Mt Takadate. After some descending, I turned right, off the ridge and into the valley through an evergreen forest, eventually rejoining the forest road taken earlier in the day. By now, the clouds had completely covered the sky, making the sun a distant memory. My car was almost the last one left, and by 5pm, I was on the road. At Mito station, I tried some local sake at Ibaraki Jizake Bar before boarding the limited express train for the comfortable ride back to Ueno.

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Mt Yamatsuri (383m) & Mt Hiyama (510m), Yamatsuri Town, Fukushima Prefecture, Sunday, February 18, 2024

I wanted to do another hike on the Abukuma Plateau after seeing it from afar on my previous hike. Looking at my Mountains of Fukushima guidebook, I found two short loop hikes on opposite sides of the Kuji river, just across the border with Ibaraki prefecture. It was similar to a hike I had done in 2019, but somewhat further up the valley. Looking online, it seemed I could get some great views of the whole area; at the end, I could visit a nearby waterfall, if time allowed.

Hiking in Tohoku 東北

I would ride the Hitachi Limited Express from Ueno to Mito, and there transfer to the Suigun line, getting off at Yamatsuri station, two stops past Hitachi-Daigo. For the return, I could continue along the same line, all the way to Koriyama, the last station, from where I could catch the shinkansen back. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cloudy, with temperatures above average for the season. I was looking forward to riding the entire length of the Suigun line for the first time, and getting some new views of the Abukuma Mountains.

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Start of the hike (left) Near the Top of Mt Yamatsuri (right)

Heading Down Mt Yamatsuri (left) and Mt Hiyama (right)

It was a blue sky day as I got off the colourful train car just before 11am, the other cars having been left behind a few stations back. I immediately headed to the nearby trail entrance, and soon reached the first viewpoint of the day, on a rocky ridge slightly off the main path. After taking in the views of the river valley below, I made my way up some log steps leading to a paved path. Shortly after a viewpoint of Hizuki Rock (日月岩 hizuki-iwa) to the south, I reached the start of the hiking trail on the right. In almost no time I reached a treeless ridgeline, from where I had a view of the Abukuma plateau to the north.

View North of Abukuma-kochi from below Mt Yamatsuri

View North of Abukuma-kochi from Tendozuka

I was amazed by the bird’s-eye view of the valley and hills below, especially since my elevation was relatively low. A few minutes later, I arrived at the summit of Mt Yamatsuri (矢祭山やまつりやま yamatsuri-yama). Northeast, I could see Mt Yamizo. The clouds had started to roll in, creating alternating patches of light and dark on the scenery. I quickly moved on, and after a short up and down, reached the flat top of Tendozuka (402m 天道塚てんどうづか) from where I had a nearly 360° view of the entire area.

Looking down from Hizuki-iwa

Looking East towards Mt Hiyama

I was stunned by the vast panorama, most of the surrounding mountains new to me; apparently even Mt Fuji could be seen, although not today. It was just past noon so I had sat on one of the many benches for an early lunch. At 12h30, I started to head down. On the way, I passed a viewpoint on the side of Hizuki Rock. From the rocky outcrop, I could see the meandering Kuji river below. The trail now hugged steep mountain side, mostly out of the trees, and it felt very warm under the sun. At 1pm, I reached the base, and after crossing a red hanging bridge, headed up a trail through the cedars. I soon turned left onto a forest road which I followed for a while, before leaving it for a path on the right.

Red Hanging Bridge over Kuji River

View North of the Kuji River Valley

At 2pm, I reached a level area with a bench and a wide view. Directly ahead, the Kuji river valley extended northwards. On the west side, I was looking down at the loop hike I had walked earlier in the day, with the bulk of Mt Yamizo spreading out in the background. A few more minutes of walking brought me to the top of Mt Hiyama (檜山ひやま hiyama) where I finally a had a good view on the south side. I could see the rugged outline of Mt Nantai, the most famous peak in the area. After a short break, I headed back down the same way. Since I was on schedule, I made a detour via Muso Taki (夢想滝 dream waterfall), which I reached at the end of a narrow ravine.

Mt Nantai (left) from the top of Mt Hiyama

In the foreground, Mt Yamatsuri, in the background, Mt Yamizo

Although the waterfall in this season was rather small, I was impressed with the huge overhanging cliff right next to it. It was nearly 3h30 so I made my way back to the station to catch one of the few afternoon trains for the one hour and a half ride to Koriyama. Along the way, I enjoyed some views of the higher mountains of Fukushima prefecture on the west side. After arriving in Koriyama, I boarded the shinkansen for the one hour ride back to Tokyo. I saw few people and had lots of great views on today’s hike so I was glad I had gone all the way to a little visited in area northeastern Japan.

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Haga-Fuji (271m), Motegi Town, Tochigi Prefecture, Saturday, February 10, 2024

I wanted to explore more of the Kanto Fureai no Michi, its trails being well-suited for winter hiking. I decided to do a section between Motegi and Nanai stations in eastern Tochigi, mostly following back lanes through an area of low hills, at the southern edge of the Abukuma Plateau. It had snowed heavily a few days before so this felt like a safe choice. At the halfway point was another local “Fuji”, with supposedly good views from the top, although I hoped no snow would be left on the steep climb.

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi

関東ふれあいの道

I would ride the Utsunomiya line to Oyama Station, and then the Mito line to Shimodate station. There, I would transfer to the private Mooka line (pronounced “mo-oka”) and get off at the last station. For the return, I could get catch a bus for Utsunomiya, and then ride the shinkansen back to Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, but not freezing. I was looking forward to a relaxing station to station hike and getting some new views in a little-visited area.

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Heading up (left) and down Haga-Fuji (right)

A Well-Maintained Trail on Haga-Fuji (left) with Views through the Trees (right)

It was a beautiful blue-sky day as I stepped off the train at Motegi just before 11am. I was surprised by how few people visit this charming riverside town in the hills, although it might be due to the winter season. I set off half an hour later and followed a promenade along the Sakasa river. On the way, I passed the quiet “Cat Store” (猫の雑貨屋), a small shop and cafe selling cat-related goods, and the busy “Motegi Roadside station” (道の駅もてぎ), from where I got a glimpse of the steam locomotive (SL) that runs on the Moka line on weekends.

Promenade along the Sakasa River

Walking through the Tochigi Countryside

It was a day for sights in the sky: white herons taking off above the river, wispy cirrus clouds moving quickly overhead, a helicopter whizzing by, power lines spanning the sky between pylons, and even a couple of circling hang-gliders which I first mistook for birds of prey. After a short bit on a busy road, I crossed a bridge and left the Sakasa river for a short detour by Anraku-ji temple (安楽寺) and its 600-year-old Zelkova tree (“keyaki“), from where I had my first glimpse of the conical top of today’s mountain. Thirty minutes later, I passed some terraced rice fields, one of the 100 rural landscapes of Tochigi, still covered in snow. Soon after, I reached the entrance to the hiking trail on the left.

Mt Yakimori & Mt Keisoku from near the top of Haga-Fuji

Mt Amamaki & Mt Takamine from halfway down Haga-Fuji

I was surprised to see the path covered in snow, with only one set of footsteps. Luckily, once it entered the forest, the snow all but disappeared. After a steep but short climb through cedars, I reached a dirt track with a wide view on the east side. I could see Mt Yakemori and Mt Keisoku, as well as the other Mt Fuji in the area. One final effort brought me to the highest point of Haga-Fuji (芳賀富士はがふじ), a 100 famous mountain of Tochigi. The view was mostly blocked by trees; through a gap on the southwest side was a view of the real Fuji, although today it was lost in the haze. It was 2pm so I sat on one of the benches for a late lunch. After half an hour, I headed down a switchback trail on the south side.

Snowy Section of the Fureai no Michi

Looking back at Haga-Fuji

This was by far the most pleasant part of the hike. Halfway down and slightly off the trail, I had a view to the south of Mt Amamaki and Mt Takamine, as well as the Ogodo Alps. I soon reached the base, and after passing Kumano shrine and Anzen-ji temple (安善寺), was back on countryside lanes. Turning around at the top of a slope, I could admire the conical shape of today’s peak. Another hour of uneventful walking brought me to a bus stop near Nanai station; a little after 4pm I boarded the bus for Utsunomiya, where I hopped on the shinkansen for the short trip back to Tokyo.

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Mt Takatori (219m), Oiso Town, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, February 3, 2024

I was looking for a suitable winter hike in the Tokyo area. While checking my map, I spotted a section of the Kanagawa Kanto Fureai no Michi I had yet to explore, connecting the Tokaido line with the Odakyu line. Although it mostly followed back roads through the countryside, the first section was up a minor peak on a forested plateau, from the top of which I hoped to get some views.

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi

I would ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line from Ikebukuro to Ninomiya station on the Shonan coast, and then take a bus to a stop near the start of the trail, skipping a one-hour section through Oiso Town. For the return, I could catch a bus for Hadano Station near Kaname River, since I had already done the next section for Mt Koubou, and then ride the Romancecar limited express back to Tokyo. If had time, I’d be able to get a hot bath at the nearby Manyo-no-Yu.

関東ふれあいの道

The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning and overcast in the early afternoon; although it was a short hike, I decided to get an early start to take advantage of the good weather. I was looking forward to a relaxing hike through a new area close to home.

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Bamboo forest (left) and steep slope (right) at the start of the hike

Walking on the top ridge (left) and up the steps (right)

Walking down to (left) and up from Kirifuri Keiryu (right)

It was a 90-minute train ride under clear blue skies to Ninomiya station where I boarded a bus for the short ride to Higashi-no-Ike (東の池), a reedy pond with a shrine on an islet. After getting ready, I located a sign for the Fureai no Michi and set off, a little before 11am, through a residential neighbourhood. Past a bamboo forest, the road rose sharply, and after a few minutes of climbing under tall cedars, I reached the ridge top, where I turned right, onto a level hiking path through the forest.

Clearing at the Top of Kirifuri Keiryu

View East towards Yokohama and the Miura Peninsula

I was amazed to be on such a lovely trail, reminding me of Kamakura, but minus the crowds. It was mostly in the trees but I did get a glimpse of Hakone through a gap on the west side. At 1130, I passed under a stone Shinto gate and made my way up a series of log steps, at the top of which I arrived at Takatori Shrine (鷹取神社). A little beyond, and slightly off the trail on the left side, was the top of Mt Takatori (鷹取山たかとりやま) surrounded by forest. I couldn’t see a summit marker but my GPS confirmed the spot. I sat down on a sunny tree trunk for a short break.

View North from Yurugi Hill

Tanzawa from Yurugi Hill

I basked in the sunshine and listened to the birdsong, before setting off again at noon, down a dirt road leading to a turn-off for Kirifuri Stream (霧降渓り流 kirifuri-keiryu). I decided to check it out since according to my map, I could do a short loop along a river valley (the full trail continues to Shonan-Daira). I soon arrived at a clearing around an electric pylon, and was rewarded with a view of Yokohama and the Miura peninsula to the east. A little further, I turned righ, descending steeply into the valley, and then took another path on the left, leading up to some fields on top of Yurugi Hill (ゆるぎの丘 yurugi-no-oka).

Mt Oyama and Plum Blossoms from the Fureai no Michi

Mt Nabewari (left), Mt Tono (middle) and Mt Oyama (right)

It was the best view of the day, and would have made a great lunch spot if there had been a place to sit. To the north, I could see the Tanzawa mountains, with the triangular top of Mt Oyama at the very right. I turned left again and soon arrived back at the clearing, thus completing my loop. Minutes later, I was back on the Fureai no Michi. From then on, I followed peaceful back roads meandering through the countryside. I had occasional views of the Tanzawa range, including one from a roadside bench where I had lunch at 1h30. The clouds had started to roll in from the west, and although, they hadn’t yet reached the sun, I quickened my pace.

View of the Tanzawa Range Extending Westwards

Bright Red Shinto Gates at Myoen-ji Temple

I was surprised by the many plum trees in full bloom, very early for the season. At 2pm I reached the photogenic Myoen-ji Temple (妙圓寺) with its flapping banners and bright red “torii” catching the last of the sun. Before moving on, I ventured into a small cave within the temple grounds and followed an underground passage till it became too low to continue. After passing Daijoin Temple, with its huge plum tree in full flower, I arrived at Nanpei Bridge (南平橋) at 3pm, where I caught one of the frequent buses for Hadano station. I had enough time for the hot spring bath, so I was refreshed for the one-hour trip back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Fuji (220m) & Shirogane-Daira (195m), Hidaka City, Saitama Prefecture, Tuesday, January 30, 2024

I wanted to do a short hike to get back into shape after a three-week break. I settled upon going on a weekday morning, as other commitments and poor weather had prevented me from going the previous weekend. I decided to do a hike up a minor peak on the eastern edge of the Oku-Musashi hills, planned last year and kept in reserve for a cold winter day. Although it shared a name with Japan’s most famous volcano due its conical summit, the climb would be a lot less arduous. I was more interested in the nearby observation deck and its view of the Kanto plain. To round out the hike, I would make a short roundtrip to a nearby waterfall. I would take the Laview limited express to Hanno, and there, ride a bus north towards Hidaka City. I would then make my way to Koma station on the Seibu-Chichibu line, from where I could catch a train for Hanno. The weather forecast was sunny and warmer than the previous days, which was good news since I would be starting earlier in the day. I was looking forward to a morning hike in the forested hills close to Tokyo after a few weeks off.

Hiking in Oku-Musashi 奥武蔵

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Start of the Hike (left) Trail past Shirogane-Daira (right)

Trail past Takizawa Falls

It was sunny, cold day as I rode the limited express train to Hanno. After a 40-minute bus ride, roughly the same duration as the train ride, I got off at a stop a little after 9am, a few minutes on foot from Ten Shrine (天神社) and the start of the hike. After getting ready and quickly checking out shrine, I set off around 9h30. I headed up a paved road leading past Komagawa Country Club and took a left at a signboard of today’s hiking route, featuring the birds “Kurikka” and “Kurippi”, Hidaka City’s mascots.

Walking up Mt Fuji

The Shirogane-Daira Observation Deck

I was delighted to be walking in nature, tall pines on both sides, the sun shining down from above; to my right was the Komagawa golf course, a low fence protecting me from stray balls. At 10am, I reached the hiking trail, beyond a stone “torii” (shinto gate). Very soon the path rose steeply, but I had barely broken a sweat when I emerged onto the sunny top of Mt Fuji (富士山ふじやま fujiyama). Despite being in the sun, the top area was surrounded by trees. As I took a break next to the small summit shrine, a helicopter darted across the sky, probably headed to the nearby Tokorozawa airfield.

View Northeast of the Kanto Plain from Shirogane-Daira

View East of the Kanto Plain from Shirogane-Daira

I set off down a steep series of steps, at the end of which I turned left along a level path, and soon reached the Observation Deck at Shirogane-Daira (白銀平しろがねだいら), at 10h30. From the top of the white, square structure, I had a view of the Kanto plain on the east side. Apparently Mt Tsukuba, Mt Nantai, Mt Akagi, the Tanzawa mountains and even Mt Fuji are visible, but I couldn’t make them out despite the clear skies. However, I could see the Tokyo skyscrapers, as well as Seibu dome; turning around I could see Mt Hiwada and Mt Monomi above the trees on the west side. After a late breakfast, I retraced my steps and followed a path along the mountain side.

Trail between Shirogane-Daira and Takizawa Falls

Wooden Carved Pillars outside Koma Station

I was surprised to see such beautiful forest so close to the big city. All too soon, I reached a paved road next to another golf course. I turned right, and shortly after, rejoined the trail on the left, taking me to the turnoff for the Takizawa Falls (滝沢の滝). I had seen more impressive waterfalls, although the dry winter season might be to blame, and quickly headed back to the main trail. After a short up and down along a sunny trail, I popped onto a pleasant countryside lane, ending at a busy road for Koma station, where I arrived shortly after noon. After admiring the two demon pillars guarding the station building, I hopped onto the local train for Hanno, just 2 stops away, and then boarded the express train for Ikebukuro.

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Mt Enokubo (420m), Sagamihara and Hachioji Cities, Kanagawa and Tokyo Prefectures, Saturday, December 24, 2023

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I wanted to do a short and easy hike close to Tokyo for Christmas Eve. I had been doing bits and pieces of the Kanto Fureai no Michi for a while now, and this was a good chance to explore the final section of the Kanagawa trail, starting at Tsukui Lake and ending at Takaosan-guchi Station. I had previously hiked Mt Shiro on the other side of the lake, as well as the first part of the Tokyo Fureai no Michi, from Takaosanguchi station to Mt Shiro (no relation to the Kanagawa one). Since the hike was relatively short, I could leave later than usual, and since it probably had few views, I could expect fewer people. At the end, I could take a hot bath at the Keio Takaosan Onsen, my first time to visit this hot spring right next to the station. The weather was supposed to be cloudy over Tokyo, but sunny over Kanagawa. I would take an express train to Hashimoto Station, and there, transfer to one of the frequent buses for Shiroyama. Afterwards, I could take an express train directly back to Shinjuku. I was looking forward to a relaxing Christmas hike and hoped I could still catch the very last of the autumn colours.

Hiking on the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Hiking up to Misawa Pass (left) Exploring the Tokyo Fureai no Michi (right)

Hiking down from Misawa Pass (left) Heading to the Takao Green Center (right)

The sky was grey and gloomy as I made my way to the bus stop at Hashimoto station. However, blue sky miraculously appeared as I approached my stop, just before Shiroyama dam. I walked a short distance to a viewpoint of the dam where I had breakfast, warming up under the midday sunshine. It was nearly noon when I finally set off, first on a road next to the lake, then along a forest road up the mountain side. I met no other hikers till I arrived at a Buddhist temple called Mine no Yakushi (峰の薬師), at the halfway point.

Shiroyama Dam and Bridge from the Observation Deck

Forest road for Mine no Yakushi

I was delighted to get some views through gaps in the trees on the southeast side. Directly below, I could see Mt Shiroyama, lake Tsukui; filling up the rest of the horizon was the city of Tokyo. Soon after, the forest road turned into a hiking trail, leveling out as it reached the ridgetop. At 1h30, I arrived at Misawa Pass (三沢峠) where the Kanagawa Fureai no Michi intersects with the Tokyo one. I was tempted me to have lunch at one of the tables there, but was dissuaded by the lack of sun. Instead, I headed up a path on the right and soon reached the top of Mt Enokubo (榎窪山えのくぼやま enokubo-yama), completely surrounded by trees.

View of Mt Shiro and Lake Tsukui from Mine no Yakushi

View of western Tokyo from Mine no Yasushi

I was happy to see that one of the three benches was bathed in sunlight and I immediately claimed it for my lunch spot. After my break, I returned to the pass and made a short loop along the Tokyo Fureai no Michi, along which I was lucky to spot some fiery orange “momiji” (Japanese maple). At 2h30, I followed a forest road into the valley on the north side, already in the shade; I had the trail entirely to myself. At one point, I thought I heard a wild animal to my left, but it was just my imagination; later on, I thought I heard water coming from the right side.

Clouds were still hanging over Tokyo

Where the city meets the mountains

I was surprised to see that a stream had appeared at the bottom of the valley, turning my forest walk into a river walk. Soon after passing the Takao Green Center, I was back on a paved road surrounded by fields. I sneaked a peak at the outer gardens of Ukai Chikutei, a Japanese restaurant on the way, and was enchanted by the small waterfall and its carp pond. At 3h30, I joined a busy road at Ume-no-ki-Daira (梅ノ木平) that took me under the impressive Takao interchange. Suddenly, shops appeared on both sides of the road, and a few minutes later, I reached the beautiful Takaosanguchi station. After a satisfying hot spring bath, I hopped on the train for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Waterfall Outside Ukai Chikutei Restaurant

A Rare Shot of Takaosanguchi Station without People

I was glad I was able to stretch out this hike to just over 4 hours, making it a nice Christmas day stroll. The Fureai no Michi frequently follows paved roads but in this case, most of this section was along forest roads and hiking trails. The views from Mine no Yakushi, the hot bath at the end and the easy access at both ends, made it worthwhile. It would be good to return one day to redo the first section of the Tokyo Fureai no Michi, or even a Mt Takao hike.

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Nihondaira (307m) & Mt Udo (308m), Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Sunday, December 17, 2023

I wanted to do a hike in Shizuoka, last visited one year ago, to take advantage of the warmer ocean climate and the Mt Fuji winter views. While researching my December 2022 trip to Shimoda, I’d noticed a ropeway on Suruga Bay, opposite the Izu peninsula. Further investigation showed that the top station was located on Nihondaira, a low plateau with several short hiking trails, including a section of the Tokai Nature Trail, the Shizuoka Bypass Route. Looking at my map, I saw I could do a station to station hike long enough to justify the cost of the trip. From the station, I would walk up to the observation deck at the highest point, and after a short roundtrip to a nearby minor peak, return via a different route; although, to my regret, I’d have to skip the ropeway. I would ride the shinkansen to Shizuoka station; a couple of short transfers would get me to Kitsunegasaki station, near the start of the hike. Before heading back to Shizuoka station from the Kusanagi JR station, I could drop by the nearby Kusanagi no Yu for a hot spring bath. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, as well as a little windy. I was looking forward to exploring a new hiking spot and getting some good views of Mt Fuji from a new direction.

Hiking the Tokai Nature Trail 東海自然歩道

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Country lane (left) leading to the Tokai Nature Trail (right)

Walking down from Mt Udo (left) and from Nihondaira (right)

It was a blue-sky day and Mt Fuji was clearly visible as I rode the shinkansen from Tokyo station. After getting off at Kitsune-ga-saki station, it still felt quite cold, so I retreated to a nearby 7/11 to buy some food and water for the day. At 1030, I finally set off along a narrow road, next to a small river, passing several unmanned vegetable stands, a common sight in rural Japan. After walking through some tea fields, I arrived at the entrance of Shimizu Funakoshi Zutsumi Park (清水船越堤公園) just after 11am. After checking out the view of Mt Fuji from inside the park, I continued along the road, and finally reached the Mabase Route (馬走コース on the Tokai Nature Trail just before noon.

Hiking along the Nihondaira Alps

The trail weaved left and right, up and down, along a narrow forested ridge; the treetops swayed in the breeze, occasionally letting through the sunshine. Half an hour later, I reached Mabase Fork and the end of the hiking trail. There, I turned left and walked up a straight road leading to the highest point of the Nihondaira (日本平), also a sightseeing spot with a hotel, souvenirs shops and restaurants. After quickly checking out the eastern observation deck, I made my way to Yume Terrace (夢テラス), one of the most beautifully designed observation towers I’ve ever visited, its wooden deck curving east to west on the north side.

Walking through the Shizuoka Countryside

Walking along the Shizuoka Tokai Nature Trail

I had a stunning view of snowcapped Mt Fuji, rising above Mt Hamaishi. To its right, past Suruga Bay, I could see Mt Ashitaka, Mt Hakone and the Izu peninsula; to its left, beyond Shizuoka city, I could observe the southern edge of the Minami Alps, Mt Daimugen visible in the distance; on the opposite side was Mt Takakusa and the Pacific Ocean, sparkling in the sun. Since it was 1h30, I sat down on a bench for lunch with a view. The wind was blowing quite a bit, so I soon set off for today’s only peak. I walked down a short section of the Shimizu-Nihondaira road, being careful of the traffic, till I reached a trail on the right. After a short climb, the path at times rather faint, I reached the top of Mt Udo (有度山うどやま udoyama), just one meter higher than the top of the Nihondaira Plateau.

View of Mt Fuji from Yume Terrace at the top of Nihondaira

View of the Izu Peninsula from the top of Mt Udo

I was stunned by the blue colours of the sea below, visible from a gap in the trees on the southeast side. It was shaded light blue in the nearby shallows and dark blue further out in the bay; the tiny waves were topped with white foam on this windy day. On the other side of the bay was the outline of the western coast of Izu Peninsula, an area of scenic beauty relatively close to Tokyo. After a short break, I retraced my steps to Mabase fork. There, I left the Tokai Nature Trail and continued straight, first down some wooden steps through the cedars, then down stones ones alongside a golf course, reaching Kusanagi fork and a paved road at 3pm. I crossed the road, continuing on the hiking path, and at the top of small rise, turned right, following a trail signposted for the Kusanagi Museum (美術館), not featured on any of the map signboards (the official Kusanagi Route continues straight and merges with a paved road after a short while).

Start of the Nihondaira Alps

Looking back at the Nihondaira Plateau

Very soon, I reached a view point of Mt Fuji, its snowy summit poking above a green ridgeline. After a short descent, I found myself walking northwards, along a forested ridge squeezed between two roads. The trail went up and down, a kind of “Nihondaira Alps”, although I couldn’t find any reference to this name. Eventually, I reached the edge of the city, rows of houses crowding in on the east side. I was now walking through a bamboo forest, the densely packed stalks blocking the late afternoon light. I eventually arrived at a fork: left for the museum and right for the University of Shizuoka. I took the right branch, since it was the most direct route to the station, leaving the museum for another day. By 4pm, I was back at the station, and after a refreshing hot bath, I caught a train for Shizuoka station, where I boarded the shinkansen for the one-hour ride back to Tokyo.

Hiking Trail at the Edge of the City

Near the End of the Nihondaira Alps

This hike took about 5 hours, excluding breaks, just the right length for a day hike. The view from the top of Nihondaira was blocked by trees on the southeast side, so it was worth making the roundtrip to Mt Udo to complete the view. The highlight of the hike was the hilly trail between Kusanagi fork and Shizuoka University: it was well-maintained and signposted, with several views of Mt Fuji along the way, even though it doesn’t appear on any maps. I’d like to return one day to explore more trails in the area, and perhaps hike the “Nihondaira Alps” in reverse.

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Inazawa Hiking Trail (highest point 430m), Honjo City, Saitama Prefecture, Thursday, November 23, 2023

I wanted to do a hike close to Tokyo allowing me to enjoy the autumn leaves. Looking at my hiking map, I found a short loop hike near Nagatoro town in the Chichibu mountains. It was under four hours, making it perfect for an Autumn ramble. Although the entire trail was under 500 meters, it included four different viewpoints. Since there was no public transport to the trail entrance, I would use a share car from nearby Honjo station. Before the hike, I could get lunch at a local soba restaurant. The weather was supposed to be good: some clouds in the morning but sunny later on; the temperatures would reach 20°C in the afternoon, making me wonder whether I’d get to see any Autumn colours. In any case, I was looking forwards to seeing new views in an explored corner of Chichibu.

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Autumn Leaves (left) and Bamboo (right) at the Start of the Hike

Walking through the Bamboo Tunnel

It was a fine autumn day as a I rode the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Honjo station. I drove for about half an hour, reaching Nishoan (二松菴) a little before noon. After a short wait, I enjoyed some delicious handmade soba with tempura. From the restaurant, it was a short drive to the small parking lot near the start of the Inazawa Hiking Trail (稲沢ハイキングコース). After getting ready, I set off just before 1h30, following a road through a small village.

Walking under the Autumn Leaves

In the Shade of the Cedars (left) Late Afternoon Light (right)

I found myself walking under coloured leaves, as soon as the last house was behind me. Shortly after, bamboo surrounded me on both sides, the tall stalks creating the effect on a tunnel. The path suddenly went straight up the mountain side, demanding a burst of effort to reach the ridgeline. On the right was an open space, turned into terraced fields; it was also the first viewpoint of the hike. On the east side, I could see the Kanto plain, its finer details lost in the haze. After some more climbing through mixed forest, I reached bench in the middle of the trees. Following the ridge a little further, I arrived at the day’s second viewpoint.

Start of the Inazawa Hiking Trail

Kanto Plain from the 1st Viewpoint

Looking north, I could see the peaks of the Mt Haruna volcano. After a short break, I set off again, passing a small shrine and its wooden Shinto gate (“torii“). The trail went down and up through the oaks, the overhead leaves golden in the afternoon sun. After a steep climb, I reached the third viewpoint, and second bench, of today’s hike just before 3pm. Looking north again, I could see both Mt Akagi and Mt Haruna. On the south side were the Nagatoro North Alps, with Mt Buko in the background. After another short break, I continued on my way.

Mt Haruna from the 2nd Viewpoint

Mt Haruna (left) and Mt Akagi (right) from the 3rd Viewpoint

The trail continued up and down through lovely mixed forest. Half an hour later, I reached the fourth and final viewpoint. It was again on the east side, towards the Kanto plain, but this time I could observe most of the ridgeline I had just followed; in the very far distance, I could make out Mt Nantai and the snowy peak of Mt Nikko-Shirane. This spot also had a bench so I sat down to enjoy the last view of the day, the hills rust-coloured in the late afternoon light. I soon started to descend, anxious to get off the mountain before sunset.

The Nagatoro North Alps from the 3rd Viewpoint

Looking back at the Inazawa Hiking Trail

I was pleasantly surprised to get one last view between the trees of the twin peaks of Mt Mikabo, on the west side. I was now heading straight down the mountain among the cedars; the sun had disappeared behind the ridgeline and the surrounding forest had turned gloomy. After a short rocky section and a series of switchbacks, I emerged onto a forest road at the base of the mountain. After crossing three log bridges, I reached some houses on a road, where I turned left. From there, it was a short walk back to the parking lot which I reached just before 4h30, just as it was getting dark.

Kanto Plain from the 4th Viewpoint

On the West Side, the mountains of Gunma

I was delighted to have discovered this hike, created by the Honjo Mountain Association, apparently quite recently, judging from the fresh paint on the signs. The entire loop is relatively short, about three hours, and the short steep up and down sections make it fun and interesting. The views are the best part, especially since they are in all four directions; I could get a really good sense of the location of this low range of hills. It seems this hike is also popular for its cherry blossoms in the spring, so I hope to return to do it in the future in a different season.

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Mt Happu (626m) & the Minano Alps, Minano Town, Saitama Prefecture, Sunday, November 19, 2023 [Map Available]

Read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo

I had hiked this mountain in November 2015, one of the hikes from my mountains of Saitama guidebook. Since then, I’d found out it was part of the “Minano Alps”. At the time, I had only hiked two thirds of it. Looking at my map, I saw I could redo it via a different set of trails; only the central part would overlap. I would start at Temple #34 on the Kannon Temple Circuit and follow the Kanto Fureai no Michi. Past the summit, I would leave the Fureai no Michi, and descend a ridgeline extending southwest, ending a short distance from Minano station.

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Path to Kegon Falls (left) / Steps for Suisen-ji Temple (right)

Since it was a relatively short hike, I could combine it with a visit to a waterfall, a short distance from the temple. To get there, I would take the Laview Limited Express to Yokoze station, where I’d change to the local Chichibu line. At Minano station, I’d catch a bus and get off at near the falls. At the end of the hike, I could walk back to Minano station. If time allowed, I’d drop by a local onsen before heading back. The weather was supposed to be sunny, with temperatures slightly above average for the season. On my last visit, I didn’t see many autumn leaves, so I hoped that this time around, I’d get to see plenty.

Hiking on the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Hiking in Chichibu 秩父

Following the Fureai no Michi up to the Ridgeline

Series of Steps (left) and Tree-Framed View (right) on the Descent

It was a blue-sky day as I stepped off the train at Minano station, a little past 10am. Although the micro-bus was full, everyone had a seat. After a 30-minute ride, I followed a paved road to the nearby entrance of the short path leading to Chichibu Kegon no Taki (秩父華厳の滝). At 10 meters high, it wasn’t the most spectacular waterfall I’d seen recently, but the Autumn foliage made it worthwhile. I made a short loop to see some more autumn colours and then walked down the road for 15 minutes to Suisen-ji Temple (水潜寺). I was the only visitor enjoying the serene atmosphere. It was nearly noon and high time for me to start my hike.

Mt Mino (front) Higashi-Chichibu (back)

In the Center, Mt Maruyama

I walked up the mountain side under the cool shade of the cedars. I was following the Kanto Fureai no Michi (関東ふれあいの道), and as usual, the trail was well-maintained and well-signposted. The trail became a series of switchbacks to tackle the steep section below the ridgetop. At Fudatate Pass (札立峠), I turned left, continuing along the Fureai no Michi. To the right is the “Nyokin” ridge route (如金峰コース) which I had taken on my last visit. After passing a beautiful Japanese maple (“momiji), I had to climb a little more to reach the top of Mt Happu (破風山はっぷさん happusan), which could be translated as “Ripping Wind”.

Mt Buko (left) The Oku-Chichibu Mountains (right)

Mt Jomine from the Summit of Mt Happu

I was amazed to have the summit all to myself, completely free of trees on the south side. From east to west, I could see Mt Mino, Mt Dodaira, Mt Maruyama, Mt Buko and Mt Ryokami. However, just moments later a large group arrived. I retreated to the north side, from where I could see the top of Mt Jomine above the trees. It was 1pm so I sat down for lunch. I was surprised how warm it felt in the sun, even though it was the middle of November. Half an hour later, I set off again. The trail started to descend quickly, and a little after 2pm, I reached a fork. I went right, following the “Maehara Ridge” Route (前原尾根コース), leaving the Fureai no Michi as it descended into the valley.

Looking North from the Top of Mt Happu

Walking along the Fureai no Michi

I followed the trail as it went up and down, seemingly without end. I felt like I was truly hiking the “Minano Alps” (皆野アルプス), even though I was lower than the main ridge. At the top of a big rock, called Nantai-Ogami (男体拝), I had a view of Mt Hodo; in the distance, I could see snow-capped Mt Nantai. Past a short rock section, equipped with rope for safety, was a steep slope leading me lower and lower. Half an hour later, I reached a couple of rocky outcrops with good views north and south. Just before 3pm, I passed the minor summit of Mt Maehara (前原山 347m), and after one more steep slope, I emerged at the base of the mountain at Ofuchi (大淵登山口). It was still early so I walked to Bon no Yu, and after a refreshing bath, took a taxi to Minano station. By 5pm, I was at Seibu-Chichibu Station where I boarded the Laview for the 80 minute ride to Ikebukuro.

Mt Hodo from Nantai-Ogami

View from a Rocky Outcrop on the Maehara Ridge Route

At just over 3 hours this is a relatively short hike so I was glad I was able to stretch the time a little with a visit to a waterfall, a temple and an onsen. I was also glad I’d decided to revisit this mountain. At first glance, it didn’t seem like I could get an interesting hike out of it, but in the end, it was extremely satisfying. The best part was that, although I passed a few people on the higher sections, I saw almost no one on the way down. So it turned out to be a peaceful ramble relatively close to Tokyo, something that can be hard to find.

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Mt Hirao (1155m), Saku City, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, September 24, 2023 [Map Available]

I needed a short, easy hike after my three-month summer break; I also needed to get above one thousand meters, free of the spiders and their webs, seemingly everywhere at this time of year. I decided to go to the Saku, a plateau between Asamayama and Yatsugatake; there, I would go up a mountain spotted on my hiking map while researching Golden Week hikes. Although the hike was under two hours, it promised a great view from the top and a hot spring bath at the base.

Read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo

I would ride the shinkansen from Omiya to Saku-Daira, and from there, take a taxi to Parada, a ski resort turned amusement park in the warmer months; at the end, I would need to walk one hour back to the shinkansen station. It was supposed to be a warm, sunny day, and so I was looking forward to my first hike of the autumn season.

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View of Yatsugatake from Hirao Onsen

View of Asamaya from behind the summit of Mt Hirao

It was slightly overcast as I rode the shinkansen from Omiya, but after passing Karuizawa town, blue skies stretched away in all directions. I got off at Saku-Daira station a little before 1030, and there, caught a taxi for the short ride to Hirao Onsen. Perched a little way up the mountain side, I already had a great view of the Saku plateau, and the Yatsugatake range directly ahead. I found a 200 yen locker to store the things I didn’t need for the hike itself, and shortly before 1130, started up the Hirao Forest “Therapy Road”.

Pines Trees (left) and Log Steps (right) on the Therapy Road

Looking up at Mt Hirao (left) Looking down from Mt Hirao (right)

I climbed through beautiful, spider-free forest, up the “Path of Endurance” (忍耐の小径); at the top of a steep log staircase, I reached the top of Mt Hirao, also known as Hirao-Fuji (平尾富士ひらおふじ hirao-fuji). It was nearly 12h30 so I sat down on one of the several west-facing benches for lunch with a view. To the south, were the mountains of Oku-Chichibu, Mt Ogura visible in the far distance; opposite was a sideview of Yatsugatake, stretching from Mt Aka to Mt Tateshina; further west, I could see the entire range of the North Alps, extending from Mt Yari to Mt Shirouma, free of clouds and snow; on the north side, the crater of Asamayama, as well as the long, flat top of Mt Hanamagari were both visible.

Log Steps near the Top of Hirao Forest

The Summit of Hirao-Fuji

I had never seen so many butterflies flutter around before, flying together in complex patterns. At 1pm, I left my pack on the bench, and went to explore a trail along the southern ridge. After going up and down a small summit completely in the trees, I reached a T-junction where I turned left. After following the slightly descending trail for a short while, I reached a clearing at a forest road. There, I had one of the best views of Mt Asama I’ve ever had, the entire range extending from east to west, completely free of clouds. I then retraced my steps back to Mt Hirao, and after picking up my pack, headed down the mountain.

View of Yatsugatake from the Summit

View of the North Alps from the Summit

I descended through the forest, chestnut burrs thick underfoot, occasionally dropping to the ground with a “plonk”. I first followed the “Path of Nostalgia” (郷愁の小径) and then the “Red Pine Path” (あかまつの小径), before reaching Ryujin-Ike pond (竜神池), a little after 2pm. Along the way, I passed another viewpoint, just off the trail, the landing spot for a pair of chairlifts, not in operation during the summer season. Beyond the “susuki” waving in the autumn breeze, I could see Mt Tateshina wearing its crown of clouds. From the pond, I reconnected with the “Path of Endurance” which I then followed back to Hirao Onsen.

View of the Crater of Mt Asama (left) and Mt Hanamagari (right)

Side view of Mt Asama from the Clearing on the Forest Road

Although it was only 2h30, I wasted no time entering the onsen, also known as “Miharashi no yu“, meaning hot bath with a view; indeed, I immensely enjoyed sitting in the “rotemburo”, or outdoor bath, gazing at the view of the surrounding mountains. At 3h30, I set off again, down a long escalator to the nearby Sakudaira parking area. From there, I followed a road down into the valley, and then walked among the golden fields, ready to be harvested. I was glad I had chosen to walk rather than take a taxi, since I had good views of Asamayama and Mt Hirao along the way. I arrived at Saku-Daira station a little before 5pm, and caught the shinkansen for Tokyo shortly after.

Last Steps of the Endurance Path (right) Walking the Red Pine Path (right)

Golden Fields Ripe for Harvest

Although on paper it seemed a long way to travel for a short hike, it turned out to be very satisfactory and an excellent way to restart hiking after a long break. Ideally, I would have used the Tokyo Wide Pass and combined it with another hike but the opportunity just didn’t present itself. Basically, I was glad I had several viewpoints, the hot spring wasn’t too crowded, and the spiders were nowhere to be seen along the hiking trail. I would like to return one day for a longer hike along some of the forest roads in the area, and during the colder months for a clearer view of the North Alps.