Onsen – Page 2 – Hiking Around Tokyo

Odoriko Trail (highest point 719m), Izu City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Saturday, April 19, 2025

I wanted to visit the Izu Peninsula again since it had been a year and a half since my last hike there. I decided to explore the other half of the Odoriko trail (踊子山道), south of Amagi Pass, hoping that in this season I could finally catch the new green of Spring. Looking at my map, I saw that, although there were no summits along the way, the trail included several interesting sights: the Old Amagi tunnel, Namesawa Gorge, Tarosugi Cedar and Joren Falls.

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Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the shinkansen from Tokyo to Mishima, and there, change to the Izuhakone railway Sunzu line. At Shuzenji, I’d board a Tokai bus for Kawazu, and get off at Nikai waterfall, just past Amagi pass. For the return, I could catch a bus for Shuzenji from Joren Falls. If time allowed, I could get off at Yugashima onsen and drop by Kajika no Yu, a public bathhouse. The weather was supposed to be sunny but warm for the season, and I hoped I could keep cool walking under the tree leaves and next to rushing water.

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Taro Cedar (left) Joren Falls (right)

Upper (left) & Lower (right) Namesawa Gorge

The start of the hike was the same as when I climbed Mt Noborio a couple of years ago. After checking out Nikai Waterfall (二階滝), the amount of water seemingly the same as before, I continued past the entrance of the Kanten forest road (寒天林道), and after about 30 minutes of mostly level walking along a paved road, I reached the entrance to the Old Amagi Tunnel (旧天城トンネル), just past 1130. Built in 1905, and nearly half a kilometer long, it’s one of the 100 famous road sections in Japan.

See a Slideshow of pictures of the Trail

Fortunately, the tunnel was equipped with some lighting (not always the case) and I didn’t need to use my headlight, which I had brought just in case. Still, it was dark enough to feel a little spooky, on top of the steady drip-drip of water from the ceiling. Once out of the tunnel, I continued along a gravel road, now heading slightly downhill. Everywhere I looked, the new green was in full effect, with even some mountain sakura in full bloom dotting the opposite ridge. A little past noon, I arrived at Suishhochi (水生地), a place I had been through before on my way down from Hatcho Pond.

Walking between Kanten Forest Road and the Old Amagi Tunnel

Entrance of the Old Amagi Tunnel

Since today was a leisurely hike and I had ample time till my return bus, I decided to make a short round trip to Namako rock (なまこ岩). Although the rock itself was nothing special, I enjoyed the walk up and down the narrow valley, alongside a rushing stream, surrounded by moss-covered rocks and mitsumata flowers (ミツマタ), slightly past their prime. At 1pm, I reached the Suishochi parking lot and headed down some steps leading from the road to a trail next to a river. I had good views of the fast-flowing water on the left side, bright green wasabi fields covering the opposite bank. After a short while, I crossed the river over a metal bridge. The trail then headed into the forest and hugged the steeped forested mountain ridge. At 1h30, I came to a wide-open space called Yuyu-no-mori (遊々の森).

Walking through the Old Amagi Tunnel

Walking between the Old Amagi Tunnel and Suishochi

Since there was a bench in the shade of a towering cedar tree in one corner, I decided to take a break for lunch. Opposite was a rusty old train on display, a reminder of a time when a railway ran through the valley; behind me, I could hear the rushing water of the river; on my right, I could see the white bell-shaped flowers of the “Dodan Tsutsuji” (ドウダンツツジ) bobbing in the breeze. At 2pm, I set off again. I soon recrossed the river, and was once again walking along its right bank, arguably its best side, occasionally stopping to admire small waterfalls, slowing the rapid flow of water. As I had expected it remained pleasantly cool, despite temperatures being in the high twenties.

View of the River from the First Crossing

Following the Right Bank of the River

This was probably the best part of the today’s hike. The trail was well-maintained and easy to follow, thanks to the numerous and easy to spot “Odoriko Trail” signposts, as well as the detailed information boards. I was surprised to see few other hikers, probably because it was still early in the season. At 2h30, after crossing another bridge, I arrived at the start of Namesawa Gorge (滑沢渓谷). Here I made another round-trip up a hiking trail on the left side. It criss crossed a road a few times, but mostly followed a tributary stream. Here I spotted someone flying a drone over the gorge, most likely getting some spectacular footage.

Small Bridge along the Odoriko Trail

Third Bridge Crossing over the River

By this time of the day, the valley, oriented north-south, was in the shade. However, as I made my way up the mountain side, some sunlight finally filtered over the east ridge, lighting up the frothing water in a spectacular manner. After a while the trail merged with a forest road, and soon after, I reached my objective, Tarosugi (太郎杉), a giant cedar, 450 years old and 53m high. It’s also one of the 100 famous trees of Japan (3rd highest in the list, the highest being a tree in Akita, 58m). It stood to the right of the trail, in a small clearing at the top of a log staircase.

Wasabi Fields between Namesawa Gorge and Tarosugi

Looking up at Tarosugi

I was totally stunned by the view of this ancient giant, the effect amplified by looking up at it from below, as well as no other tree in the vicinity coming close to its majestic height. I had already visited the giant cedars in Yakushima, but there, every tree towers above you and it’s hard to grasp how tall they really are. On the way up, I had been wondering if it would be worth it, and I was definitely very happy I had made the effort. Although the tree was surrounded by a fence, it was possible to walk around it, and thus I could check out this marvel of nature from every angle. Once done, I legged it back to the entrance of the gorge, as I had now fallen slightly behind schedule. A little past 3pm, I reached the roadside station Amagi-goe (道の駅天城越え) where I crossed the road.

Rapids along Namesawa Gorge

One of the Few Mountain Views of the Hike

The final part of the hike followed a path up and down through forest before reaching a paved road at the top of a wooden staircase, a calming stroll after an exciting moment. The road led me through a somber cedar forest and then through a residential area. The elevation had dropped from over 700m around the pass, to about 300m, and for the first time today, I felt quite hot under the afternoon sun. I arrived back at the main road just before 4pm, and after recrossing it, headed down a long flight of steps. At the base of the steps, past yet another wasabi field, I arrived at the last highlight of the day, Joren Falls (浄蓮の滝), 25 meters high and the largest waterfall on Mt Amagi, as well as one of the 100 famous waterfalls of Japan.

Wooden Staircase near the End of the Hike

Joren Falls Surrounded by the New Spring Green

I admired the thundering water, as it crashed into a blue-green pool, surrounded by bright green leaves, and then made my way back up the steps. It was a short bus ride, followed by a short walk to Kajika-no-yu (河鹿の湯) in Yume-ga-shima Onsen (島温泉郷) , and although there was no outside bath, I had the indoor pool mostly to myself. I caught another bus closer to the public bath and at 5h30, I was back at Shuzenji station. There, I boarded the anime-themed train for the half an hour ride back to Mishima, from where it was less than an hour by shinkansen to Tokyo station.

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Mt Ogiri (766m), Higashi-chichibu & Chichibu Cities, Saitama Prefecture, Sunday, March 23, 2025

I wanted to do another hike in Higashi-Chichibu, as my previous hike there a few months ago had reminded me of what a great place it was for hiking. Looking at my map, I saw I could traverse from eastern to central Chichibu, passing by a peak climbed some years ago. The middle part of my planned hike followed the Kanto Fureai no Michi, as well as the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail, meaning the trail would be easy to follow. It had snowed heavily a few days before, but looking online, it seemed that most of the snow had already melted in the subsequent warm weather.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu-Tojo express train from Ikebukuro to Ogawamachi, and from there, board the Higashi-chichibu Village line bus for the half an hour trip to Kaiya in Higashi-Chichibu. For the return, I could catch a bus from Sadamine in Chichibu itself for the thirty-minute ride to Seibu-Chichibu station, where I could get a hot bath at Matsuri-no-yu and taste some local nihonshu from their “sake server” before catching the Laview Limited Express for Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm for the season and so I was looking forward to an early spring hike in the Chichibu mountains north of Tokyo.

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Trail past the Summit (left) After Sadamine Pass (right)

Hiking the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail

外秩父七峰縦走ハイキングコース

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi　関東ふれあいの道

View of Higashi-Chichibu from above Kaiya

Looking back at the Road for Kayunita Pass

The first part of the hike took me from the base of the valley to the open shelter at the Kayunita Pass (粥仁田峠), where I turned left, onto the Fureai no Michi the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse. I started out at 11am and arrived at the pass just before 1230 during which time I saw only one other hiker, wearing a traditional Japanese straw hat or “amigasa”. He was walking behind me and occasionally picked up pieces of trash, so I assumed he was a member of the “Kaiya Genki Club”, the name shown on the many new-looking signposts I had seen along the way.

These Fields will Turn Green in the Summer

View East Between Kayunita Pass and Mt Ogiri

This first part was entirely along deserted country lanes through open fields, meaning I had wide sweeping views of the Higashi-Chichibu valley every time I stopped and turned around. On the southeast side, I could see Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira, climbed in November last year; on the northeast side was Mt Kannokura. Most of the surrounding vegetation was still in winter mode which felt a bit strange considering that the temperature was above 20°. On the same day I saw cherry blossom trees that had already reached full bloom and patches of leftover snow, sometimes even at the same spot.

Walking the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail

View of Chichibu Highland Farm from Mt Ogiri

The next part from the Kayunita pass to the summit, up a proper hiking trail, took half an hour. It was mostly in the forest although I had a view of Higashi-Chichibu through a gap in the trees mid-way. The guy in the “amigasa” caught up with me at the summit but it turned out that he was just another hiker. The view was a bit hazy and better appreciated with the naked eye than in photos. Straight ahead, northwards, I could see Chichibu Highland Farm, Mt Misuzu and the Nagatoro Alps. To the west was the outline of Mt Ryokami and the Oku-Chichibu mountains: and on the south side was the easily recognisable pyramid summit of Mt Buko. Mt Ogiri (大霧山おおぎりやま meaning big fog) is a 100 famous mountain of Kanto, hard to believe since I had the summit to myself (the straw hat guy left after a short break).

Level Section Past the Summit

View East of Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira

I sat on one of the benches for a half hour lunch break. During that time, using the detailed “View Guide” (展望案内), I tried to identify many of the mountains that could be seen on a day with perfect visibility. At 1h30, I set off again, and reached the Old Sadamine Pass (旧定峰峠) less than an hour later. This up and down section was also mostly in the trees, except for a view of Mt Kasa and Mt Dodaira beyond a field on the left side. The ground was dry and free of mud despite the heavy snow just a few days ago, allowing me to walk at a good pace. I was also glad to be in the shade of the trees, shielding me from the sun on an unseasonably warm spring day.

Leftover Snow on a Warm Spring Day

Approaching the Sadamine Pass

At the Old Sadamine Pass, a crossway surrounded by tall cedars, I turned right, heading down the valley towards Sadamine, leaving the Fureai no Michi and 7 Peaks Traverse which both continued straight along the ridgeline. A signboard recounted the Legend of Daidarabotchi, including the origin of Mt Ogiri:

Long ago, there was a giant named Daidabo who lived in the Musashi Plain. One day, on his way to Mt. Haguro, he straddled the Chichibu Mountains, sitting on Sadamine Pass, and putting his straw hat on top of Mt Kasa. He stretched out his legs toward the nearby Yokogawa Rive and, placing his bowl of cooked rice gruel on Kayunita Pass, enjoyed his lunch. After he finished eating, he placed his chopsticks (made from two logs) into the ground and stood up, accidentally leaving a large rock behind that had been supporting his lower back. He then took a sip of water from the Arakawa River and blew it out—this is said to have formed Mt. Ōgiri. To this day, the footprints left behind by the giant remain in the form of wetlands and marshes in the upper reaches of the Yokogawa River and in the mountains around Shiraiwa.

End of the Hike in Sadamine on the Chichibu Side

View Towards Maruyama from Sadamine

The last part of the hike was a straightforward descent through forest. At 3pm, I popped back onto a road near Sadamine. It was another 30 minute walk back to the road and a bus stop. Since I was ahead of schedule, rather than waiting under the afternoon sun, I decided to visit the nearby Shimabuji Temple (四萬部寺), #1 on the Kannon Temple Circuit. By 4h30, I was on the bus for Seibu-Chichibu station. Surprisingly the food court and souvenir shops were not crowded, possibly because March is still out of season for the area. Shortly after 6pm, I was comfortably seated on the Laview Limited express for the 90 minute ride back to Ikebukuro.

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Mt Raiden (418m), Tokigawa Town, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, January 18, 2025

I was looking for a short, low-altitude, and relatively easy hike near Tokyo, with some good views, as well as a hot spring bath at the end, to take full advantage of the clear skies of the cold winter days. Poring over my map, I spotted a peak in the Tokigawa area, overlooked up to now, but which checked all the boxes. The summit was supposedly in the trees, but the shoulder beneath it was described online as a “Scenic ridge”. As an added bonus, I could check out the Sanba Gorge on the Toki river before heading to the nearby Toki no Yu hot spring.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d rode a Tobu-Tojo express train from Ikebukuro directly to Ogawamachi, and there, hop on a local bus for the short ride to Suzume Dam. After a hot spring bath at the end of the hike, I’d walk a short way to the Seseragi Bus center. There, I’d catch a bus for Musashi-Ranzan station, and then board a Tobu line train for the trip back to Ikebukuro. The weather was supposed to be cold and sunny all day, and I was looking forward to a relaxing hike in the hilly countryside of Oku-Musashi.

Hiking in Oku-Musashi 奥武蔵

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Suzume River and Dam

Trail past the Summit of Mt Raiden

It was another splendid winter day as I rode the express train to Ogawamachi, arriving there around 11am. After a short ride on a diminutive bus filled to capacity, I got off at the Suzume Dam entrance (雀ダム入口) in Hikage, actually a 10-minute walk to the dam itself. Along the way, I passed Hikage Shrine, its “shide” (zigzag-shaped paper streamers) swaying gently in the breeze. At the top of a slope, I reached the parking of a park, descriptively name the Suzume river dam erosion control park (雀川ダム砂防公園). A short climb up a steep staircase brought me to the top of the dam wall.

Sunny Hiking on a Winter Day

Following the Panoramic Ridgeline

Surprisingly, the water behind the dam was half frozen, sparkling white under the morning sun; yellow Japanese Pampas grass (“susuki“) in the foreground completed the scenery. In the far distance beyond the top of the dam, I could see the skyscrapers of Tokyo. I followed the road into the forest, and past a bend, reached a signpost marking the trail entrance on the right, shortly after noon.

View Southeast of Tokigawa Town

View East of Mt Doyama

It was a pleasant climb up a gentle slope through a mixed forest, the warm sunlight filtering through the leafless trees. Less than an hour later, I arrived at the small shrine marking the summit of Mt Raiden (雷電山らいでんやま raiden-yama meaning thunder and lightning). This peak might hold the record for the most summit markers: I counted five different ones. It was completely in the trees, so after a short break, I headed down a trail on the east side.

View South of Mt Yumidate

Trail for Mt Doyama

I felt relieved that the trail was easy to walk and well-maintained, just what I had been hoping for. I saw no other hikers so I was also able to enjoy it in near complete silence in this season, before the return of the birds and insects. After a couple of turns, I reached the scenic ridge, although all I could see were the trees on both sides. Suddenly, at the top of a gentle slope and just before a steep descent, a view opened up on the right side.

Trail past Mt Doyama

Road near the End of the Hike

I was delighted to finally get a view, especially on such a beautiful day. Looking southeast, I could see Tokigawa Town, and beyond, the Kanto plain with the skyscrapers of central Tokyo in the distance. On the south side was Mt Yumidate, and below on the east side, the next part of the ridge. Since it was 1h30, I sat on a tree root at the side of the trail and had lunch with a view. Once done, I set off again, ready to tackle the steep section head.

Sanba Gorge on the Toki River

Looking back at Mt Doyama

This was the trickiest section of the hike, dead leaves making it especially slippery. I made good use of the attached rope, and once past it, the trail was mostly level. Thirty minutes later, I passed the minor peak of Mt Doyama 堂山 (どうやま 250m), and there, turned left down a pretty trail through green ferns. At 2h30, I exited the forest and reached a road along the Toki river which I followed to the entrance of Sanba Gorge (山波渓谷). I was lucky to catch the last rays of sun on the cascading, rushing water. After exploring the rocky riverbed for a while, I headed to nearby Toki no Yu at. After a relaxing bath, I walked to the bus center where I boarded another diminutive bus for the short ride to Musashi-Renzan station.

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Mt Hijiri (380m), Mt Takatori (556m) & Mt Kobo (235m), Isehara & Hadano Cities, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 4, 2025

Like for the last outing of 2024, I needed a straightforward hike close to Tokyo to ensure a smooth start to the new year. I decided to head to the Tanzawa foothills, notorious for its leeches in the warmer months, but pest-free at this time of the year. I had already walked from the top of the Oyama cable car to Mt Takatori, as well as from Mt Kobo to Tsurumaki Onsen. This time, I’d explore the southern ridgeline between Mt Takatori and Mt Kobo. I knew I could get a good view of Mt Fuji past Mt Kobo, and also finish the hike at Manyu no Yu, two reasons for making this the first hike of 2025.

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Hiking in the Tanzawa Mountains 　丹沢山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the local Odakyu line to Isehara station, and then board a local bus for a stop near a city park, a short distance from the trail Entrance. For the return, I could walk from the hot spring to Hadano station, and there, board the Odakyu Limited Express for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon, putting a question mark on my new year rendezvous with Mt Fuji. Still, I was looking forward to exploring new trails in a familiar area.

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Steps for Mt To (left) Road for Mt Hijiri (right)

Leaving Mt Hijiri (left) Steps up Mt Takatori (right)

It felt quite cold as I stepped off the bus in the midst of a residential neighbourhood of Isehara city, a little before 10am. Thankfully, the sun was high enough to warm me up while I made my way to Tonoyama Park (塔の山公園), a wooded area surrounding a small mountain. After a short climb up a wide path, I reached some benches from where I already had a view of the flat coastal area reaching to Shonan Bay. After a late breakfast I set off at 1030, and soon after, reached the top of Mt To (塔ノ山とうのやま tonoyama 202m, meaning “Mt Tower”), from where I had a view of summit of Mt Ooyama on the north side.

Trail past Mt Nenbutsu (left) Trail for Zenba Pass (right)

Steps past Mt Gongen (left) Steps past Mt Sengen (right)

I continued along the ridgeline, heading down through leafless trees, and soon arrived at a road on the north side of the mountain. I turned right, heading south, past the main park entrance, then turned left, following a sign for Hokokuji Temple, and shortly after, came upon a signpost for today’s next mountain. After a few more turns along back roads, I reached the Mt Hijiri trail entrance (聖峰登山口), another paved road but this one closed to vehicles. After passing through a wildlife gate, I continued straight, ignoring the shortcut on the left side, and a little before noon, reached the top of Mt Hijiri (聖峰ひじりみね hijiri-mine meaning “sacred peak”), also the site of a small Buddhist temple.

View East from Hijiri-mine of the Miura and Boso Peninsulas

View South from Hijiri-mine of Shonan Bay and Shonan-daira

I was delighted to have such a wide view on my first hike of the year. Looking north, I could see the skyscrapers of Yokohama and central Tokyo; eastwards, I could make out the low rounded mountains of the Miura and Boso peninsulas; to the south was the level-topped Shonan-daira with Shonan Bay in the background. While I was admiring the view, a pickup truck pulled up, and a man went to open the temple building, called Hijiri-mine Fudoson (聖峰不動尊), giving myself, and two other people who happened to be there, a chance to peer at the Buddhist altar inside; we even got to touch a small snake statue (2025 is the year of the snake); finally, we each received a paper stamped with its “goshuin“, a red seal proving one’s visit to the place. After carefully placing it inside my pack, I set off again, along a level trail through tall cedars, and soon reached a series of log steps where the ridgeline rose steeply.

Steps Leading to Mt Takatori

View South from below Mt Takatori

I broke a sweat for the first time of the day, only pausing briefly to take in a view that had appeared through a gap in the trees. Looking south, I could see the ridge I’d be following on the next part of the hike; curving northwards was the ridge I’d just ascended, green cedars crowning the top of Mt Hijiri. I reached a junction where the two ridges merged; I turned right, and after a little more climbing, reached the top of Mt Takatori (高取山たかとりやま takatori-yama), also the site of an NTT relay tower. It was surrounded by trees except on the north side, where Mt Oyama’s pyramidal summit fit snuggly between two tree trunks. I retraced my steps to the junction and continued along the south ridge.

View towards Mt Hijiri and its “green crown”

Framed View of Mt Oyama from Mt Takatori

I was surprised by how steep and rocky the trail suddenly became, forcing me to slow my pace. I was relieved when the trail soon became more or less level again, and one hour after leaving Mt Takatori, I arrived at Mt Nenbutsu (念仏山 357m) where there was bench and a view on the south side. The name is a Buddhist term meaning visualizing a Buddha. By now, the clouds had covered the southern half of the sky forcing me to imagine most of the view as well. Since it was nearly 2pm, I had a late lunch break before continuing my way.

Trail between Mt Nenbutsu and Mt Kobo

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from the Fureai no Michi Junction

This was probably the nicest part of the hike, an easy to follow and slightly descending trail through an evergreen forest. At 2h30, I reached Zenba Pass (善場峠), and a little further, I emerged onto a road with a view of the Tanzawa mountains to the north, seemingly still free of snow. I crossed the road and headed up a trail on the other side, now inside Koboyama Park (弘法山公園) and also on the Kanto Fureai no Michi. After a short climb, I reached the top of Mt Kobo (弘法山こうぼうやま koubou-yama), named after Kobo-daishi who is said to have trained in this place (he is also connected to Mt Mitsumine). Since my last visit in April 2016, a viewing platform had been erected on the east side. Like from Mt Hijiri, I had a view of the Shonan coastline, the Miura Peninsula and Shona-daira, but it looked quite different under a cloudy afternoon sky.

Final Steps before the Top of Mt Kobo

Viewing Platform on the East Side of Mt Kobo

I admired the constantly changing patchwork of light and dark patches in the landscape below. On the south side, the bell tower sitting directly in the sun’s path lit golden. I now followed Babamichi road (馬場道) meaning “riding ground”, indeed wide enough for riding a horse, to the next summit, Mt Gongen (権現山ごんげんやま 243m), a flat, grassy area with an observation tower on the east side. From its top, I hoped to finally have a glimpse of Mt Fuji, but those hopes were dashed by the thick, dark clouds massed on the south side. A ray of sunlight managed to squeeze through, illuminating the urban sprawl of Hadano City, providing the proverbial silver lining. On the east side, I could look down on the Soga Hills, a range of low hills stretching from Matsuda town to Kozu station on the Shonan Coast.

Patches of Light and Dark from Mt Kobo

Shonan Coast and Shonan-daira from Mt Kobo

I was surprised to see a few snowflakes fall gently and thought perhaps a snowstorm was on its way; fortunately, there was no follow-up, bits of blue sky still appearing overhead. At 3h30, I headed down steep steps on the south side, leaving the Fureai no Michi as it headed east to connect with my last year’s hike to Mt Takatori. After crossing a road, I passed by Mt Sengen (浅間山せんげんやま 196m). It was more of a shoulder that a summit but what it lacked in prominence was made up by the prominence of its beautiful wood-carved summit marker. On my last visit, the scenery was white from the cherry blossom trees covering the “shoulder”; today it was bathed in yellow from the late afternoon sun.

View of the Soga Hills from Mt Gongen

View from Mt Gongen of Mt Hadano under a Ray of Sun

The final descent of the day was surprisingly pleasant: a switchback trail delightfully easy on tired knees, late afternoon sun shining through evergreen trees, and no one but me on the mountain. Just before 4pm, I reached the trail entrance and a busy road where I turned left. On Kobo bridge across the Kaname River, I had one last look at Mt Kobo, firmly under blue skies now, before heading to the nearby Man-no-yu Hot Spring. I reflected on how most of today’s mountains names are common mountain names in Japan and how unusual it was to find all along one ridgeline. After a satisfying hot spring soak, I walked the final 15 minutes to Hadano station, where I caught the Romance Car limited express for the one hour trip back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Takara (374m), Mt Hizure (382m), Mt Hachioka (460m), Mine (423m) & Mt Kongo (420m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Sunday, December 29, 2025

For the final outing of 2024, I was looking for a hike close to Tokyo, something straightforward to ensure I could end the year safely. I also wanted to finish at a hot spring, the cold months of winter being the best time to indulge in one of my favourite activities. A few weeks ago, I found out about the Hizure Alps, and I thought it might be the perfect time to explore this up and down route along four minor peaks south of Sagami lake; since the hiking time was just over 3 hours, I could extend it with a round-trip to a 5th peak on the south side.

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Hiking the Hizure Alps 日連アルプス

I would ride the Chuo line to Fujino station, and from there, walk to the trail entrance on the east side of the “Alps”. I would finish at a trail entrance on the west side, where I could catch a bus for Yamanami Onsen. After a hot bath, I could take the bus in the opposite direction, back to Fujino station. I knew that the Chuo line had recently added green cars so I was hoping to use one on the return. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, usual for this time of the year, and I was looking forward to an enjoyable last hike of 2024.

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Hike in the Shade (left) Hiking in the Sun (right)

Late Afternoon sun near Mine (left) and Mt Kongon (right)

It was a beautiful sunny winter day as I stepped off the Chuo line at Fujino station. After getting ready, I made my way down to Hizure Ohashi Bridge. While crossing the Sagami river, I could already see the Hizure Alps on the other side. Although the nearest entrance was right up the road, I turned left past a supermarket, and followed back lanes eastwards till I reached the Hizure Alps Trailhead (日連アルプス登山口) shortly before noon. On the way, I passed a charming little shrine with red banners flapping in the wind.

Sagami River from Hizure Ohashi Bridge

View North on the way to the Trailhead

I patiently followed the trail as it hugged the mountain side instead of climbing right away. Just as it reached the eastern end, it suddenly made a right turn and headed up at a steep angle. After hauling myself up, the trail soon regained a more reasonable angle and was in the sun again. At 1230, I arrived at a picnic table on the summit of Mt Takara (宝山(たからやま takara-yama meaning treasure). Framed between 2 trees on the south side was a view of Mt Jinba. I continued on my way, and soon after, reached another picnic table at the top of Mt Hizure (日連山ひづれやま hizure-yama); it was completely in the trees so I continued without a break.

Walking in the Sun Past Mt Hizure

Mt Omuro (left) & the Doshi Mountains (right) on the way to Mt Hachioka

The trail was mostly level with some slight ups and downs, mostly in the sun thanks to the bare trees, and mostly free of people thanks to the Japanese year-end holidays. At 1pm, I reached a third bench at a fork in the trail. I went left, leaving the Alps momentarily to head along a southern spur. This change of direction also exposed me to strong winds blowing from the west. I soon arrived at an electric pylon with an open space on the west side. I gazed at the pyramidal summit of Mt Omuro for a short while before being chased away by the wind. After a short slippery climb over dead leaves, I reached the top of Mt Hachioka (鉢岡山はちおかやま hachioka-yama), one of the 15 famous mountains of Fujino town, and also the site of a TV antenna. Despite the lack of view, it was sunny and quiet, so I settled down on a log for a lunch break. Once done, I retraced my steps to the Alps.

Windy Section of the Trail on the Way to Mt Hachioka

Viewpoint at the Top of Mine

The next section was probably the nicest part of the entire hike, heading southwest into the afternoon winter sun, the surrounding vegetation reflecting its soft light. It was only 2pm, but I seemed to be the last person left on the mountain. At one point, I had a view on the south side of Mt Sekiro and Mt Hachioka, side by side. A little before 2h30, I turned right at another fork, this time following a spur northwards, and a few minutes later, arrived at the top of Mine (峯みね). I had a stunning view of Uenohara and the surrounding mountains on the west side: from left to right, I could see Mt Ogi, Mt Gangaharasuri, Mt Gongen, Mt Mito and Mt Jimba.

Mt Ogi (right), Mt Gangaharasuri (center) & Mt Gongen (right) from Mine

Mt Gongen (left), Mt Mito (center) & Mt Jinba (right) from Mine

I took my time taking in the view, trying to spot the smaller peaks I had hiked in the area such as Mt Yae, Mt Furo and Mt Yogai. The wind had pushed in some clouds from the west, testing my patience as various areas alternated between sun and shade. Once satisfied, I left my pack and trotted further down the ridge to the nearby Mt Yasaka (八坂山やさかやま 420m), in the forest and thus less famous. After collecting my pack, I returned to the junction and continued to the final peak of the day only a short distance away. Mt Kongo (金剛山こんごうざん kongo-zan), named after a Buddhist term meaning “something indestructible”, was the site of a small shrine surrounded by cedars.

View of the Uenohara Area from the the Top of Mine

Heading to Mt Kongo

A couple of picnic tables in the shade made it seem like the ideal place for a break on a warm day. However, it was already past 3pm, so I started down a steep path on the south side. No rain for the past few weeks meant the trail was dusty and slippery and I made ample use of the attached rope to keep my balance. Half an hour later, I popped onto a road at the Hizure Alps Entrance (日連アルプス入口) and a few minutes later, caught a bus for Yamanami Onsen. After a quick but restorative hot bath, I hopped back on the bus for the short ride to Fujino station. There I boarded the Chuo line green car for the first time (free of charge till the Spring) for the one hour ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Happu (626m) & Mt Omae (653m), Minano Town & Chichibu City, Saitama Prefecture, Sunday, December 22, 2024

I had hiked Mt Happu about a year ago but wanted to return to explore some more trails on this up and down ridge, also known as the Minano Alps. Its relatively easy access and low elevation made it the perfect place for an outing during the cold, short days at the end of December. Finally, I was eager to try out our Japanwilds Happu-san Hiking Map, published in March 2024, by making sure to download the free map in Avenza before heading out.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride a bus from Minano station and get off on the north side, just past Mangan no Yu. I’d follow the Kanto Fureai no Michi to the summit, then continue to Fudatachi Pass, and from there, follow the Edo Old Pilgrimage Trail down the south side. At the base of the mountain, it was a one-hour walk through the countryside to Seoto no Yu. After a hot bath, I could use their free shuttle bus to get back to Minano station.

Hiking the Minano Alps 皆野アルプス

Hiking in Chichibu 秩父

If time allowed and the weather was clear, I’d do a round-trip to one of the viewpoints along the ridge beyond Fudatachi Pass; I could also do another round-trip to Temple #33 on the Kannon Temple Circuit, about ten minutes on foot from the hot spring at the end of the hike. The weather was supposed to be sunny but cold for the season. I was looking forward to exploring new trails on a well-trodden mountain.

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Trail before Saru Rock (left) Trail between Mt Happu & Fudatachi Pass (right)

It was a beautiful, sunny day as I rode the Laview Limited Express from Ikebukuro. After transferring to the local Chichibu line in Yokote, I got off at Minano station around 10am. The sun had mischievously vanished behind thick clouds rolling in from the surrounding mountains; I checked the updated forecast for the day, and it seemed the sun would return in the early afternoon. I walked to the nearby bus stop and also noticed that the departure time had been pushed back slightly since last year, meaning I had to wait a little longer out in the cold.

Walking along Nyokin Ridge (left) Walking the Old Pilgrimage Road (right)

I felt a little warmer after getting off the heated bus at Futto Iriguchi (風戸入口). I was the sole passenger and, considering the gloomy weather conditions, I wondered if I might be the only person on the mountain today. At 11am, I started up the Kanto Fureai no Michi, behind an “Onsen Stand“; this is like a petrol station, but instead of petrol, people pay a small fee to fill plastic containers with hot spring water for home use; while I was getting ready a couple cars pulled up, so it seemed a more popular activity than hiking on a cold day. After barely a few minutes, the trail ended at the road bend, which I followed up and through a village. I opened the Avenza app on my smartphone and loaded the Happu-san Hiking map, a blue dot tracking my progress along a green line showing the trail.

Start of the Trail Near Futto

Looking up, I was delighted to see patches of blue in the sky, a hopeful sign for the rest of the day. I passed an ancient “kura“, or storehouse, encircled by vegetation, slender bamboo on one side and evergreen trees on the other, the bright green contrasting with the deep blue sky; gusts of wind rustled through the leaves, contributing to the this enchanting sight, as well as pushing the remaining clouds further away. At 1130, I reached an open shelter with a view of Mt Hodo to the north. Here, the hiking trail resumed, clearly indicated by the familiar wooden Kanto Fureai no Michi (関東ふれあいの道) signposts. At the top of some log steps, I entered the forest.

View North from the Summit of Mt Happu

I was surprised to see a carpet of golden leaves covering the path ahead and the nearby forest floor. Looking left, I spotted a tall, leafless ginko with a small shrine at its foot: what a magnificent sight it must have been earlier in the month. Autumn was still hanging on in Tokyo but here in the mountains winter had arrived. After a short climb through the forest, I arrived at the Kasato junction (another reading of “Futto”) and turned right along the main ridgeline of the Minano Alps, now following last year’s hike, but in reverse. At noon, I arrived at Saru-iwa (猿岩 meaning “monkey rock”), a huge yellow-coloured rock protruding dramatically from the narrow ridge.

View of the Chichibu Basin from Nyokin Ridge

I was glad to see it properly this time as I had somehow missed it on my last visit, possibly because it was hidden by the foliage which had now fallen; it was also clearly labeled on the Japanwilds Hiking Map, so I was sure to see it, foliage or not. Apparently, the rock resembles the face of a monkey looking up, but before I had time to turn my own face up to confirm this, a big group suddenly arrived from the other direction, and I quickly departed (the face can be discerned in the slideshow picture at the end of this blog post). Shortly after, I arrived at the top of Mt Happu (破風山はっぷさん happu-san), my third time to stand on the top.

Pine Tree and Mt Buko below the Top of Mt Omae

The breathtaking view of the Chichibu basin and the Oku-Chichibu mountains on the south side was dulled by the lingering, low grey clouds, while the more muted view on the north side was nearly clear of clouds. As more people arrived, I set off without a break, down the steeper trail on the east side. At 1230, I reached Fudatachi Pass, earlier than expected, so I pushed ahead along the ridge, feeling optimistic as the weather was slowly but surely improving. After some easy walking through the forest, now off the Kanto Fureai no michi, I reached Nyokin Ridge.

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains from the Musashi Observatory

From this point, I found myself scrambling over some rocky sections, chains attached for safety; I also had to navigate a narrow ledge with drops on both sides, lined with a rope to prevent any mishaps. I was surprised how quickly I had to change my walking style from carefree rambling to a cautious advance. I still made good time and soon reached the Musashi Viewpoint, on top of a prominent rock with a couple of twisted pine trees, like two hairs on a bald head. By now, the clouds on the south had mostly retreated, with most of the basin bathed in sunlight.

View North of the Nagatoro Alps from Musashi Observatory

The view had considerably improved in the space of one hour, although the triangular peak of Mt Buko was still the only easily recognizable mountain. Blue skies continued to rule on the north side, and I could see Mt Hodo, with the Nagatoro Alps behind, and even further behind were the Hachioji Hills (no relation to Hachioji city), beyond a narrow neck of the Kanto Plain. I decided to continue a little further, and after a short climb, arrived at Mt Omae (大前山おおまえやま oomae-yama), also the location of a small statue. It was surrounded by trees but a few meters away, on the south side, was a ledge with a view.

Fallen Tree along the Old Pilgrimage Road

I kept my distance from the edge as the mountain side dropped away steeply, offering a remarkable bird’s eye view of the wrinkled terrain far below. Since it was past 1pm, I found a tree root that could double as a seat and settled down for lunch with a view. Looking to my right, I could see Mt Tengu, the highest peak of the Minano Alps: it looked deceptively close but I knew from previous experience that the next valley would take time and energy, the ridge really starting to deserve its Alps nickname, and the views wouldn’t be worth it.

Fallen Leaves and Afternoon Sun on the Old Pilgrimage Road

I made my way back at a swift pace, taking care when traversing Nyoho ridge, arriving back at the crossroads at Fudatachi Pass at 2pm; there, I turned right onto a narrow but well-defined trail. I was now following signs for Fudasho #33 Kikusui-ji Temple (札所33番菊水時), along the Edo Old Pilgrimage road (江戸巡礼古道), heading eastwards and hugging the mountainside. Judging from my lunch spot perch, I expected a steep gradient but so far I was enjoying a gentle, almost level descent. I was making good time, except for some maneuvering around a couple of fallen trees; on the other hand, the fallen leaves, rather than being a nuisance, shone brightly under the sun, as the sky was back to its morning blueness.

Watch a Video of the Mt Happu Hike

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The path abruptly ended at a road, which I followed for a short while before rejoining the trail on the right side. At 3pm, I popped onto another road, leading me to a temple and a main road at the base of the mountain. Following the signs for Temple #33, as well as Google Maps since I was now off the Japanwilds Hiking Map, I turned right and followed back lanes past the “Michi no Eki” Ryusei Kaikan, till I found myself beside the Akahira river. The sun had already sunk below the rim of the Chichibu Basin, and so I had to save my visit to Temple #33 for another time. I reached Seoto no Yu just before 4pm, my 2nd time to this charming hot spring. At 5pm, I was the only person to board the free shuttle, the last of the day, and less than a hour later, I was at Seibu-Chichibu station, sampling some local sake from their convenient self-serving sake machine (“sake server”) while waiting to board the Laview Limited Express for the comfortable ride back to Ikebukuro.

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Mt Fukunari (227m) & Mt Shizuhata (171m), Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Saturday, December 14, 2024

I wanted to do some more hiking in Shizuoka. Looking online, I found a trail along a north-south ridgeline extending all the way into Shizuoka city, the Mt Shizuhata Hiking Trail. It seemed a bit on the short side meaning I could walk it at a leisurely pace while enjoying the views. After visiting Asama shrine at the end of the trail, I could drop by the nearby Ofuro Cafe Bijinyu, a public bath doubling as a cafe.

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I could get to the start of the hike by riding the bullet train directly to Shizuoka station, and from there, catch a bus for Ume-ga-shima Onsen, getting off at the entrance for Kujira-ga-ike Pond (actually a lake), a short distance from the trail entrance. After the hot bath at the end, I could catch a bus for the short ride back to the station. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, as well as a little windy. I was looking forward to exploring a new area with new views.

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Start of the Hike past Kujira Lake (left) Entering the Bamboo Forest (right)

Trail near the 1st Viewpoint (left) Trees in the Way below Mt Fukunari (right)

It was a blue-sky day as I rode the shinkansen, arriving at Shizuoka station around 10am. Soon after, I was riding a city bus northwards, with glimpses of the ridge I’d be walking today on my right side. It took half an hour to reach the Kujira-ga-ike Iriguchi bus stop, from where it was a short walk to Kujira-ga-ike, a fishing spot meaning “Whale pond”, presumably named after its shape. I decided to head around its south shore to better admire the view of the Shin-Tomei expressway on the opposite side .

Trail near the 2nd Viewpoint (left) Trail near the 3rd Viewpoint (right)

Trail past Mt Tanku (left) Mid-section of the Shizuhata Trail (right)

The view was best from the east side, just past Kujira-ga-ike Benten Shrine, the expressway disappearing into the mountains of the Southern Alps, puffy cumulus clouds reflected on the water surface. It was nearly noon, so I left the fisherman behind, and just before a tunnel, went up a paved road on the right, simply signposted as “Hiking Trail”, one of the trail entrances of the Mt Shizuhata Hiking Trail (賎機山ハイキングコース). I soon reached a real hiking trail, where I turned right, heading south along a gently undulating ridgeline. After passing through a tunnel of tall grasses, I arrived at the entrance of a bamboo grove.

An Easy to Walk Trail (left) Trail Past Ipponmatsu (Right)

Heading down after Ipponmatsu (left) Heading Towards Mt Shizuhata (right)

I love walking through bamboo groves as it’s something unique to this part of the world. This one was especially amazing, with one tall bare tree in its center, like a lord among its subjects. It was totally quiet, except for the occasionally cracking noises of the bamboo growing. After exiting the grove, the trail took on a very countryside-like quality, passing between hedges and rows of identical trees. Occasionally I could see some blue sky between gaps in the tree and I was starting to wonder whether I would get any views. Finally, one hour after I started along the trail, I reached the first viewpoint of the day, at the edge of a fruit orchard.

The Shin-Tomei Expressway from the South Side of Kujira Pond

The Shin-Tomei Expressway from the East Side of Kujira Pond

Looking eastwards, I could see all the way to the mountains of Izu peninsula; in front was Nihondaira, and to the south, Suruga Bay, with Shizuoka city filling in the low-lying spaces between the mountains and the ocean. I set off again, and after a short climb, reached Fukunari Shrine at the top of Mt Fukunari (福成山ふくなりさん fukunari-san) at 1pm. It was mostly in the trees, with a window view of Abe river through a gap on the west side. I continued on my way, heading slightly downhill, and soon arrived at a bench and a second viewpoint, mostly of Shizuoka city on the south side. I pushed on a little further, and reached another bench and a third viewpoint.

View East of Asahata Village from the 1st Viewpoint

View West of Abe River from the 3rd Viewpoint

I had a better view of the Abe river valley than from the summit, and since this bench was in the sun, I decided to take a break for lunch. I set off again, a little before 2pm, and soon found myself ascending through tea fields, typical scenery of Shizuoka prefecture. Thanks to the low tea bushes, a wide view soon opened up on the west side. To the north, was Mt Ryuso; to its left, I could see the multiple mountain ranges of the Southern Alps, one tall peak in the very center already white with snow; from this mountainous mass emerged the Abe river, passing under the busy Shin-Tomei expressway.

Row of Trees Separating the Tea Fields

View of Abe River and the Shin-Tomei Expressway from Mt Tanku

It was easily the best view of the day; it was also the coldest spot of the day, the wind blowing hard, a blast of cold air descending from the Alps, bringing dark clouds in its tow. I arrived at a concrete platform with a bench and a view on the east side, the culminating point of the surrounding tea fields. It was next to a large cylindrical storage tank, and was thus called Mt Tanku (タンク山 229m), although a summit marker seemed to be missing. I had a panoramic view of the Izu peninsula, Nihondaira, Suruga Bay and Shizuoka city; just Mt Fuji was missing from the picture. It was nearly 3pm, and I hadn’t reached the halfway point, so I stepped up the pace. The next part was mostly level, with frequent views on the east side through gaps in the vegetation.

Mt Ryuso, Tea Fields and Dark Clouds

View from Mt Tanku of the Southern Alps

I noticed a mushroom-shaped cloud formation above the next ridgeline, a sudden downpour created by the influx of cold air from inland, a lucky escape for me. I left the tea fields behind and was once again walking through the forest. I was surprised by the variety of trees, very different from the monotonous cedar forests in other hiking areas; hanging between the branches were the ever-present jorogumo spiders still alive and well, despite the cold. After passing an electric pylon and some more orchards, I reached a road. Here, beyond the orange mikan, I had my first view of Mt Fuji, half-hidden by the clouds. I followed the road for a short while before rejoining the hiking path.

Bench with a View at the Top of Mt Tanku

Nihondaira and Shizuoka City from Mt Tanku

Great views, now including Mt Fuji, kept on appearing on the east side, slowing my pace. After passing 3 panda figurines hanging from a tree, I reached another road section heading up, but soon left it for path with plastic tubes for steps, leading to Ipponmatsu (一本松 192m), meaning “One Pine Tree”, which stood all by itself on the north side. From this vantage point, I could admire the ridgeline I had walked so far today, with Mt Ryusu rising directly behind; to its right was Mt Fuji, its famous snowcap now free of clouds. It was nearly 4pm, and I still had a third of the way to go, so I turned away from the view and headed down a path in the opposite direction.

Mushroom-Shaped Cloud on the Next Ridge

Mt Ryuso and the Mt Shizuhata Hiking Trail from Ipponmatsu

The late afternoon sunlight created a wonderful effect as I headed down some log steps facing westwards, although it also signaled that sunset was imminent. At another viewpoint with a bench, I saw the sun touching the opposite ridgeline, the Shin-Tomei expressway simply a yellow line along the valley; in the other direction, Mt Fuji was clearly visible and starting to turn pink. I continued up a steep trail, requiring one final effort to get to the top of Mt Shizuhata (賤機山しずはたやま shizuhata-yama), also the remains of an ancient castle; apparently the “shizu” in Shizuoka comes from this mountain’s name. It was mostly in the trees so I soon moved on, along a level trail with wide open views on the west side.

Mt Fuji from Ipponmatsu

Trail between Ipponmatsu and Mt Shizuhata

Turning around, I was stunned by the orange colours on the mountain side, highlighted by the fast setting sun. A little further on, I had another view of Shizuoka city on the east side, under pink clouds and a full moon. I quickened my pace, and after one final effort up a section crisscrossed with tree roots, forcing me to tread carefully in the growing gloom, I reached the top of Mt Asama (浅間山 140m). It was also inside Shizuhatayama park, with a paved path and occasional lampposts, meaning I could complete the hike safely even in dark conditions.

Autumn Colours Past Mt Shizuhata

Mt Fuji and Full Moon from Mt Asama

I had a breathtaking view of pink Fuji under a yellow moon, lights slowly coming on throughout the city spread out below, the last view of the day. It was past 4h30, so I quickly made my way down through the park, past Asama Shrine, the path enchantingly lit by lanterns, people still dropping by for a quick prayer in the early evening. At 5pm I emerged onto a busy road at the base of the mountain, and a short while later, arrived at Ofuro Cafe Bijinyu. After a reinvigorating hot bath, I caught a city bus for the short ride back to Shizuoka station, where I hopped onto the shinkansen for the one-hour trip back to Tokyo.

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Mt Daigo (635m) & Mt Nishi (487m), Minobu Town, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, December 1, 2024

I had spotted this station to station trail the previous year while searching online maps for new hikes; although mostly in the forest, it had one good viewpoint of the Southern Alps on the west side. Online reports showed that the Autumn leaves had reached their peak in the area, and with the excellent weather forecast for Sunday, sunny with little wind, I decided it was time to make the long trip to this remote corner of Yamanashi prefecture, last visited in 2019.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d once again ride the Chuo line Limited express to Kofu, and there, transfer to the infrequent Minobu line. I’d arrive around noon, but this was fine since the hike was on the short side and ended at Shimobe Onsen, where I could relax in a hot bath while waiting for the train back to Kofu. Incidentally, Minobu Town is where Yuru Camp mostly takes place, so I was looking forward to revisiting an area I’d become familiar with through the Yuru Camp manga and anime.

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Near the Start of the Hike (left) Past the Mt Goro Viewpoint (right)

Early Afternoon light (left) Leaning Trees (right)

It was another blue-sky day as I rode the limited express in a straight line westwards, from the Kanto Plain to the Kofu Basin. After transferring to a local train on the Minobu line, it was another one hour ride, this time southwest and then south, the railway following the Kamanashi river, as it squeezes between the Southern Alps and the Misaka Mountains. I was the only passenger to get off at the unmanned Kai-Tokiwa station around noon. I quickly found my bearings and followed a road westwards, to a small graveyard with a Kannon Statue.

View of the Tokiwa Area and Mt Goro from the Kannon Statue

Afternoon Sun and Autumn Leaves

Turning around, I enjoyed the first view of the day: the Tokiwa area with the summit of Mt Goro (五老峰 goroubou) rising behind. I located the start of the hiking trail and headed up the mountain side through the forest. The trail soon leveled and was bathed in the afternoon sun, enhancing the yellow colours of the surrounding Autumn leaves. I wondered why no one else was walking this path as it seemed like the perfect time of the year for this hike. I soon passed Hatouchi Pass (鳩打峠), and at 1pm, arrived at a bench with a view on the east side.

View of Mt Goro past Hatouchi-toge

View of Yatsugatake below the Summit of Mt Daigo

From this higher vantage point, I now had a proper view of Mt Goro. For such a local trail, I was surprised to see how well-maintained it was, with good quality signposts, panels with tree names and even distance markers to the top. I heard deer sounds nearby but never saw any, an indication of how few people pass through. I had another view, southwards this time, of the foothills of the Southern Alps, Yatsugatake, its highest peaks white with snow, and Mt Kaya. After a steep but short climb, I reached the top of Mt Daigo (醍醐山だいごやま daigo-yama), a Buddhist term meaning nirvana.

Yellow and Red Leaves near the Summit of Mt Daigo

Red Maple & Mt Goro near the Mt Daigo Viewpoint

Standing on top of “Mt Nirvana”, I didn’t feel especially enlightened, under the shade of trees with not even a hint of a view. I was delighted by the signboard showing a hand-drawn bird’s-eye view of Mt Daigo (also online, Japanese only). Following the signs for the observatory, I walked downhill in a westward direction, surrounded by stunning autumn leaves, the reds and yellows swaying in the breeze. I reached a narrow ridge, the vegetation shrinking away on both sides and letting the sunlight through. I stopped near a huge “momiji” (Japanese maple) and turned around.

View of Mt Minobu (left) & Mt Shichimen (right) from the Mt Daigo Observatory

View of the Fuji River Valley from the Mt Daigo Observatory

I had probably the best view of the day, the vivid red leaves sharply contrasting with the light blue sky, the now familiar triangular summit of Mt Goro in the background. I moved further along the ridgeline till I reached a signboard next to a gap in the vegetation on the south side, the Mt Daigo Observatory (醍醐山展望台), in truth more of a viewpoint. Directly ahead was Mt Minobu with the massive bulk of Mt Shichimen lurking behind; on the west side was Mt Zaru, the highest peak in the vicinity; far away to the south, I could just make out the top of Mt Takadokkyo. It was already 2pm, so I settled on a comfortable rock for a lunch break.

View South of the Japanese Southern Alps

View Northwest of Mt Fujimi from Daigo-toge

I enjoyed the view of the Fuji river sparkling under the sun, as it snaked its way towards Suruga Bay. Sadly, Mt Fuji was missing, so close yet invisible, one of the rare blind spots in the area. I was only halfway through my hike so at 2h30, I set off again, retracing my steps to the summit and heading down a faint path on the south side. The descent turned steep, down log steps half buried in dead leaves, rope attached to adjacent trees for safety. A little after 3pm, I reached the lonely Yama-jinja shrine, its access blocked by the huge trunk of a fallen tree. This was also the junction for the second mountain of the day; I went right, along a path through some bamboos, leading to Daigo Pass (醍醐峠) and the final viewpoint of the day.

Mt Daigo in Orange near Mt Nishi

Looking north, I had an amazing view of the orange-coloured mountain side of Mt Daigo with the dark shape of Mt Fujimi rising like a wall in the background; in the valley below, houses filled the narrow space between the Fuji river and the foothills. To the south was Mt Goro again, small puffy clouds passing over its summit. I dived back into the forest, and soon reached the flat top of Mt Nishi (西山にしやま nishi-yama), completely in the trees. It was 3h30, just one hour to sunset, so I hurried back to the junction and headed down, past an abandoned house, down a switchback path through a dark forest, along a stream over a couple of wobbly bridges and out through an electric gate. At 4pm, I emerged onto a road where I turned left, soon walking through an inhabited area.

Spooky Bridge near the End of the Hike

Today’s “beacon”, Mt Goro near Shimobe Onsen

I was now walking straight towards Mt Goro, its tip lit up light red in the last light of the day, looking very much like the beacon that had guided me throughout the day. I turned left onto a main road, and after crossing a bridge over the Fuji river, arrived at Shimobe onsen, where I indulged in a hot spring bath at the modern Shimobe no Yu, just across the tracks from the train station. As I exited the hot spring facility, I was delighted to see life-size cutouts of characters from Yuru Camp. A little after 5pm, I boarded the faster express train for Kofu, and there, transferred to the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

Thank you for reading – make sure to check out the Japanwilds website for more hiking blogs and maps

Watch a Video of the Mt Daigo Hike

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Mt Komatsu (514m), Mt Shiro (640m) & Mt Yumura (446m), Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Saturday, November 23, 2024

I was looking for another hike in Yamanashi before the arrival of the snow. I also wanted to stay relatively low since the temperatures had plummeted since the previous week. Looking at my map, I spotted a group of suitable mountains just north of Kofu. I had already done a great hike on the northeast side so I was keen to explore the area more. I saw that I could make an open loop passing by several viewpoints, including an interesting rock formation and a lake, within a reasonable amount of time.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike near Suwa Shrine, I’d ride the Chuo limited express to Kofu station, and from there, ride a bus to a stop within walking distance of the shrine. I’d finish the hike at Yumura Onsen in northwest Kofu, and after a hot spring bath, ride a bus back to the station. The weather was supposed to be clear but cold. I hoped I could get some good views of the surrounding mountains, including Mt Fuji, and still catch the Autumn leaves at their best.

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Start of the Hike near Suwa Shrine (left) Tall Pines on Mt Komatsu (right)

Exposed Rocks above Kinsu-toge (left) Autumn Colours near Chiyoda Lake (right)

It was a cloudless, blue-sky day as I stepped off the limited express in Kofu station at 10am. I boarded a local bus, the driver even kindly confirmed my destination, and after a short ride, I got off at a stop still within the confines of the city. A few minutes of walking brought me to the foot of the mountains, and after a short climb, I arrived at Hizakutsu-suwa Shrine (膝屈諏訪神社). It was just after 11am as I passed under the stone shinto gate next to an impressive yellow gingko-tree.

Trail below Mt Shiro (left) Trail past Mt Hosenji (right)

Path for Mt Yumura (left) Flagstones for Yumura Castle Ruins (right)

Turning around, I was rewarded with a view of snow-capped Fuji. I made my way to the white shrine building surrounded by tall cedars, and after taking a few minutes to adjust my gear, set off along a level trail at the far end of the shrine grounds. I soon emerged from the trees onto a sports field, and after crossing a busy road, followed a residential street up the mountain side to a staircase below the trail entrance. This section has no signposts and I had to rely entirely on my phone GPS.

Log Steps Leading to the Top of Mt Komatsu

Walking the Takeda no Mori Promenade

I was surprised to see that the trail was partly overgrown, a sign that it was little used in this season; I was even more surprised to notice spiders again, a sign of their resilience to cold weather. Once the path started to climb, the trail became better defined; I saw the first signpost of the day upon reaching a wide path along the top ridge. I turned right, and after climbing a series of log steps, arrived at the top of Mt Komatsu (小松山こまつやま komatsu-yama), the promised view mostly blocked by vegetation.

Heading up to Kinsu-toge

The exposed rocks of Mt Awayuki

I was tempted to take a break at one of the sunny summit picnic tables but since it was barely noon, I decided to press on. Even though the mountain name means “little pine”, it was home to some very tall red pines, one of the 100 famous forests of Yamanashi. I went back down the steps and followed the ridge northwards, soon merging with the Takeda Forest Promenade (武田の森遊歩道 takeda-no-mori-yuhodo named after Takeda Shingen, a famous feudal lord from the Sengoku era), an ancient road connecting Wada and Iwado passes; I had already walked the latter part on my Mt Yogai hike. I strolled along the wide, level path as it followed the mountain side eastwards through the forest.

First view of the day near Kinsu-toge

Mt Fuji, the Misaka Mountains and the Kofu Basin

From time to time, I waved a stick to clear the stubborn spider webs that were too low to duck under, their occupants groggily moving out of the way. Shortly before 1pm, I left the promenade and turned left onto a wide path leading up the mountain side, the webs now thankfully gone. I soon reached Kinsu Pass (679m 金子峠) where I had a view of Mt Fuji between a gap in the trees. I now rejoined a hiking trail, and continued eastwards, soon arriving at a group of white-coloured rocks, called “Exposed Rocks of Mt Awayuki” (702m 淡雪山の露岩あわゆきやまのつゆいわ), similar to the scenery one can find at the nearby Shosenkyo. It was also the highest point of today’s hike.

Mt Kaikoma from the Exposed Rocks

Afternoon Light at Chiyoda Lake

I felt lucky to have such a spot all to myself. Above the pines on the south side, I had a fantastic view of Mt Fuji and the Kofu basin. To the west, I could see Mt Kaikoma, also known for its white rocks, and the long summit ridge of Mt Houou. After taking a few minutes to explore and take photos, I selected a suitable rock to sit on for a lunch break. A little after 2pm, I headed back to Kinsu Pass, and followed the ridge westwards. Here the trail became faint and I had to rely on my phone GPS and the occasional pink ribbon. After a short descent, I reached a proper trail which soon turned into a road through a residential area; at 3pm, I arrived at the edge of Chiyoda lake.

Autumn Colours on the way to the Mt Shiro Viewpoint

Chiyoda Lake from the Mt Shiro Viewpoint

I was dazzled by the reflection of sunlight on the blue water surface and green water plants. I headed up log steps surrounded by red and orange leaves, happy to be back on a hiking trail. After a short climb, I reached an open shelter at the Shiroyama Viewpoint (白山展望台). Directly below was Chiyoda lake; to the west, I could the see the outline of Mt Houu against the fast sinking sun; looking north, I spotted Mt Kaya and the Kurofuji volcanic group, with the white rocks of Shosenkyo in the foreground and the peaks of Yatsugatake in the background. I still had a little way to go to the next summit, so after a short break, I set off again. The up and down trail was easy to follow, and at 3h30, I reached the Hachioji shrine (八王子神社) at the top of Mt Shiroyama (白山しろやま), meaning “white mountain”.

View of Kofu from the top of Mt Shiro

Dark Clouds and Yellow Leaves from Mt Shiro

I was stunned by the view of fleecy clouds spreading from the snowy slopes of Mt Fuji, casting shade over Kofu city’s urban sprawl; luckily, the light still reached the surrounding slopes, lighting them up in gold. I quickly admired the view of the South Alps on the other side of the shrine, before moving on, picking up the pace as I wanted to get down before dark. I descended a steep, sandy trail, the rocky outcroppings and gnarly pines along the way feeling quite typical of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai national park. I was delayed by two more superb viewpoints, the setting sun creating a striking contrast of light and shade, before reaching a level trail, now in the shade. At 4pm, I passed the minor summit of Mt Hosenji (539m 法泉寺山ほうせんじやま), completely within the trees.

The Tip of Mt Fuji hidden by the Clouds

The South Alps from the Top of Mt Shiro

I was suddenly walking on flagstones (“ishidatami), a reminder that today’s last summit was also the location of Yumura castle (湯村城), although only some stone foundations remain today; I had to be careful not to miss my step, especially since the visibility was starting to fade. After a short descent, I reached a fire beacon (“noroshi“), a recent reconstruction of one of the many that used to exist during the Edo period, creating an ancient communication system. One final effort brought me to the open shelter at the top of Mt Yumura (湯村山ゆむらやま yumura-yama), meaning “hot spring village”.

Sun Setting behind Mt Houou

Trail between Mt Shiro and Mt Yumura

I had one last view of Mt Fuji, its top half truncated by a layer of grey clouds. It was 4h30, so I sped back to the fire beacon and headed down a switchback trail on the west side, occasionally taking the well-worn short cuts between the bends. I was relieved to reach Yumura Onsen (湯村温泉) before it was completely dark, arriving at Yumura Hotel just before 5pm. After a refreshing hot spring bath, I caught a bus for Kofu station, where I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

Easy to Follow Trail below Mt Shiro

Last View of the day from Mt Yumura

This hike ended up taking 6 hours, a bit longer than planned, mainly because of the superb views along the way. The section around Mt Shiro was especially stunning, and I’d like a chance to redo in lighter conditions. It deserves to be better known, and it’s a mystery why I saw no other hikers the whole day. In the future, I’d also like to climb Mt Kata (片山) on the other side of Chiyoda lake and also explore more of the Takeda Forest Promenade towards Yogai Onsen. Before that, I definitely want to revisit the white rocks of nearby Shosenkyo.

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The Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (highest point 824m), Komoro City, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, October 13, 2024

I was looking for another hike in the Saku area since it had been one year since my previous visit. Searching online, I found a loop hike using parts of the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (Japanese only); it was mostly along small roads and country lanes, ideal for avoiding Jorogumo spiders that hang out along forested trails in the early Autumn. Another benefit of walking through the countryside in this season is to enjoy the scenery of golden rice fields, ready to be harvested. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm all day, welcome news after two consecutive cloudy weekends.

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I would start from Komoro station, a short ride on the Shinano Tetsudo line from Karuizawa, easily reachable via the Hokuriku shinkansen. Looking at Google Maps, I noticed I could end at Aguri no Yu and, after a relaxing hot bath, take a taxi back to the station. From there, I’d ride the Koumi line in the opposite direction, to Sakudaira, so that I could board the shinkansen before Karuizawa, after which the train is usually packed. Although I wouldn’t be summiting any peaks, I’d able to visit Komoro Castle Ruins and Shakuson-ji Temple along the way, and if the weather allows, enjoy the panoramic views of Mt Asama and Mt Yatsugatake.

Chikuma River from Komoro Castle

Chikuma River from the Keizo Koyama Art Museum

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the shinkansen from Tokyo, although Mt Asama was firmly in the clouds as the train pulled into Karuizawa station around 9am. I transferred to the Shinano Tetsudo line for the 20-minute ride to Komoro; I happened to catch the rapid service with reserved seating so I remained comfortably seated for the entire trip. After getting ready, I set off for the nearby Komoro-jo Castle shortly after 10am. After paying a small “strolling fee” (called sansakuken) for Kaikoen Park which surrounds the ruins, I walked past ancient stone walls to the Fujimi Observation Deck from where one can see Mt Fuji, although today the sky was too hazy for that. I had better luck with the Mizunote Observation Deck, from where I could gaze down at a bend of the Chikuma River, the longest river in Japan. After exiting the castle grounds, I made my way to the nearby Keizo Koyama Art Museum.

Downstream View of Chikuma River near Shakuson-ji

Upstream View of Chikuma River near Shakuson-ji

I had a breathtaking view of another bend of the Chikuma river, an impressive plateau rising on the opposite side; I felt excited that today’s hike would take me along its top part. I joined the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (浅間･八ヶ岳パノラマトレイル) just below the Art Museum garden. I followed a switchback trail through the forest, reaching a road at the valley bottom around 11am. After crossing Okubo Bridge, I followed back roads through a charming residential area, the way well-signposted throughout. After a short climb, I had a view of the base of Mt Asama, the top part still hidden in thick clouds. The path then descended and merged with a cliffside road running right next ro the river. Shortly after the noon chime, I arrived at the start of the trail heading up the plateau. After a 15-minute climb through the forest, cliffs towering on both sides, I reached Shakuson-ji Temple (釈尊寺) from where I had a view of Nunobiki Kannon (布引観音).

Approach to Nunobiki Kannon

Nunobuki Kannon from Shakuson-ji Temple

I was amazed by the view of small structure clinging to the cliffside, reminding me of Daifuku Temple. Soon after, I was standing on the wooden platform, gazing past the cliffs at the still cloudy Asama, trying not to look at the drop below. I continued my way up a winding road through the forest, at one point passing a snake taking a break in a sunny spot on its warm surface. A little after 1pm, I turned left onto a forest road near a frog-filled pond; I never saw any, just heard feeble croaks followed by tiny splashes as I approached. I was now walking along the top of the plateau, the surrounding forest hiding the views. At 1h30, I reached a road junction near a lake, and here I followed a lane to the highest point of today’s hike, a grassy spot above the fields. To the south and east, I could make out the hazy outlines of Mt Yatsugatake and the Chichibu mountains.

Golden Rice Fields at Mimakigahara Plateau

Mt Asama from Mimakigahara Plateau

I was surprised how warm it felt in the middle of October, not even a breeze to cool off. At 2pm, I set off again, now following a country lane as it curved around and over hills. Thirty minutes later I reached a wide open space used for rice cultivation: the Mimakigahara Plateau (mimakigaharadaichi 御牧ヶ原台地). Many fields had already been harvested, the rice stalks hanging on drying racks; however a few remained untouched, the golden stalks basking under the afternoon sun. Turning around, I was rewarded with a majestic view of the highest summits of Mt Asama, finally free of clouds. I then turned left onto a dirt path and up another hill through open countryside.

Mt Asama and Pond View

View of Mt Asama from the Panorama Trail

This was the best part of the hike so far, the entire range of the Asama volcano slowly coming into view. The entire plateau is dotted with small lakes, and I eventually arrived at one of the biggest ones, Himamu-ike Pond (干間無池), the dark blue summit of Mt Asama visible above the light blue lake. The trail continues down the cliffs and along the Chikuma River back to Komoro station, but here I headed back to an intersection near my lunch spot. From there, it was half an hour of slight up and down walking to Aguri no Yu Hot Spring, famed for the view of Mt Asama from its outdoor bath. After a refreshing soak, I was back at Komoro station at 5pm, and soon after, I was comfortably seated on the Shinkansen for the one hour trip back to Tokyo.

Mt Asama and Himamu Pond

Walking back from Himamu Pond

The Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail is actually a network of trails on the south bank of the Chikuma river. Today’s hike took about five hours and passed several of the area highlights, the excellent signposting and online information ensuring I could always find my way. I hope to return next year to complete the other sections and see the rest of the highlights. I’d also like to get an earlier start so that I can get clearer views of the Yatsugatake range on the south side, but I’d need to plan it for a cooler day as there is little shade along the way. In any case, I know I can finish my hike with a well-deserved hot spring bath.