Lake View – Hiking Around Tokyo

Mt Kuro (1793m) & Mt Hafu (1674m), Fuefuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 16, 2025

I had climbed these mountains in December 2013 from the Kawaguchiko side. I wanted to hike them again but from the Fuefuki side; I also wanted to try out our Japanwilds Kuro-dake Map for Avenza. Finally, I was interested in riding the free shuttle bus between the Ashigawa Agricultural Products Market “Ogossoya” and the Suzuran-gunseichi Parking Lot; it started running last year to reduce traffic due to the nearby Fujiyama Twin Terrace. However, the bus I had used on my previous trip to the area from Isawa Onsen had been discontinued, so I ended up renting a car from Kofu city instead and skipping the shuttle entirely.

Hiking inside the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

From the parking lot, I could take the most direct route up Mt Kuro, and after checking out the view from the nearby observation point, follow the ridge westwards past Mt Hafu and then down to Shindo Pass, also the location of the Fujiyama Twin Terrace. From there, I would again take the most direct route back to the parking. If time allowed, I could drop by Kamiku no Yu onsen on the way back. The weather was supposed to be sunny but near freezing at higher elevations. I hoped to get some good views of Mt Fuji and also catch the last of the Autumn colours.

Get a map of the Mt Kuro hike

This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer

Find more Japan hiking maps on Avenza

Fallen Leaves (left) and Beeches (right) at the Start of the Hike

Trail near the Top (left) Autumn Colours at the End of the Hike (right)

It was a blue sky day as I drove southwards from Kofu station towards the Misaka Mountains (御坂山地). After following a narrow road along the Ashi river valley, I arrived at the Lily of the Valley Flower Colony Parking Lot (すずらん群生地駐車場) just after 11h30. I had to use a smaller parking for hikers since the main one, a little further down the road, was reserved for people using the Twin Terrace Bus. A little after noon, I set off along a faint path starting from the parking lot. After passing a second parking for hikers and crossing a small bridge over a dry riverbed, I arrived at an electric fence beyond which was the start of a well-defined walking path.

Last Rays of Sun near the Summit of Mt Kuro

Trail near Mt Hafu

I found myself walking among tall beeches, their tops already bare of leaves, drawing attention to their white trunks. After recrossing the dry riverbed, I reached a paved road where I turned right and soon passed the gated entrance for the road for Fujiyama Twin Terrace, closed to private cars. A little further, I arrived at a sign for today’s mountain, pointing to a faint trail heading up the left side of the dry riverbed. Here, I was glad I could see my position on the Japanwilds digital map since the trail was at times hard to follow. At 1pm, I turned right onto a ridge, the path merging with a signposted trail leading to the summit.

Sun Rays Filtering through the clouds

View of Kawaguchiko Lake from below Mt Hafu

I made good time up the steep trail allowing me to stay warm in the frigid temperatures. I was above 1000 meters and Autumn was already well over, the white beeches providing most of the scenery; a sign indicating told me I was inside a 100 famous forest of Yamanashi. The trail gradually became less steep, giving me a chance to catch my breath without having to take a break. After a couple of turns, I suddenly came upon the summit of Mt Kuro (黒岳くろだけ kuro-dake meaning “Mt Dark”), the highest peak of the Misaka mountains and a 300 famous mountain of Japan. It was completely in the trees so I dropped my pack and headed for the observation point a few meters to the right, hoping to get a glimpse of Mt Fuji.

First Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Autumn Leaves Catching the Sun from the First Terrace

I was surprised to see that thick clouds had rolled in during my ascent, completely hiding Mt Fuji from view. According to the other hikers, I had missed Japan’s iconic volcano by only a few minutes. Looking down, I still had a view of Kawaguchiko lake extending east to west along the base of the mountains. On the right side, I could see Mt Ou and Mt Setto, two other main peaks of the Misaka mountains. I decided to skip my planned lunch break and immediately head to the next summit, in hope that the clouds would have cleared by then. I retraced by steps and headed down a steep path on the west side; beyond Suzuran Pass (すずらん峠), the path became level and easy to walk.

In the Distance, Mt Shakushi and Mt Mishotai

View of Kawaguchi City and its Lake from the 2nd Terrace

This was the most peaceful and pleasant part of the hike, surrounded by pines masking all sounds and views. I soon passed the summit of Mt Hafu (破風山はふうざん hafu-zan), only noticeable by its summit marker doubling as a signpost. A short way down the west side was another viewpoint of the Fuji Five Lake area. It was past 2pm so I settled down for a late lunch. Although the clouds were still in, sun rays filtering through the gaps created a magical scenery. At 2h30 I set off again, and soon after passing another viewpoint on the left side, I came upon the first terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace at Shindo Pass (新道峠). Opened in July 2021, it was accessible via a short bus ride from the Suzuran Gunseichi parking (a fee is charged each way), and thus was filled with about a dozen sightseers.

Second Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Mt Fuji on a Clear Day (Dec 2013 Photo)

I was stunned by the view of the golden larches covering the foothills, enhanced by the late afternoon sun rays, although Fuji was still stubbornly in the clouds. I made my way to the first terrace, just a few meters away; it was deserted of people, tall pines slightly in the way of the perfect view. It was nearly 3pm, a couple of hours before dark, so I gave up on seeing Japan’s highest mountain and headed down via a paved road, moving to the side once to let the bus pass. Fifteen minutes later, I turned left onto the trail from Suzuran Pass; after descending through dark cedars, I reached a small road the second parking for hikers.

Autumn Leaves near the End of the Hike

A multicolour Japanese Maple Tree

During this part, I finally got a close up view of some beautiful Autumn leaves. A little after 3h30, I arrived back at my car, the last one left in parking area. I drove a short distance to Kamiku-mo-yu, which I reached just before sunset, and after a refreshing hot bath, got back behind the wheel for the return trip to Kofu. Although I experienced a “shy Fuji” today, I was glad I could do a hike in the Fuji area, somewhat of a challenge nowadays due to the high number of overseas visitors. I’d like to return one day and try another hike, but this time starting from Fujiyama Twinterrace.

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Yatsugatake Sanroku Super Trail (Highest Point 1410m), Minami-maki & Koumi Towns, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, November 2, 2025

I had previously walked several sections of the Yatsugatake Sanroku Super Trail, from Kiyosato station to Kai-koizumi station (sections 5 & 6), from Nobeyama station to Kiyosato station (sections 7 & 8) and the Kirigamine Highland loop (#15); I was reminded of this long distance trail earlier this year when I passed by the head office of the Japan Long Trail Association at the Momofuku Ando Center. I felt it was time to explore another section of this multi-day trail around the foothills of the Yatsugatake mountain range. Looking at my map, it seemed that section 9, between Nobeyama station and Matsubara Lake, could be done as a day trip from Tokyo. It was on the long side, and although the elevation change was modest, I would need to walk fast with few breaks to complete it before dark.

Hiking on Yatsugatake 八ヶ岳

To get to the start of the hike, I would ride the Chuo line limited express to Kobuchizawa, and there, change to the Koumi lime for the half an hour 500 meter ascent to Nobeyama station. At the end of the hike, I could catch a bus from Matsubara Lake and get off at Yahho Onsen. After a hot bath, I could use the same bus in the opposite direction to get to Matsubarako Station; there, I could board the Koumi line for the one hour trip to Sakudaira station where I could hop on the shinkansen for Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be sunny, and although the temperatures would reach 20°C in the lowlands, they would remain under 10°C in the highlands. I was looking forward to a countryside ramble with views of the Nagano mountains.

Oku-Chichibu Mountains (left) Mt Ogura (right)

Japanese Maple (left) Matsubara Lake Path (right)

It was a sunny Autumn day as I rode the Azusa Limited Express to Kobuchizawa (887m), where I transferred to the packed two-car Koumi line train bound for Komoro. It was only from Kiyosato station that I could get a seat on the last section of the ride up the southeastern edge of Yatsugatake. A little before 11am, I stepped off the train at Nobeyama station (1345m), the highest train station in Japan, also the start of today’s section of the Yatsugatake Sanroku Super Trail (八ヶ岳山麓スーパートレイル) or Super Trail of the Mt Yatsu Foothills.

View of Yatsugatake from the Makiba Line

Nagano Autumn View

I was immediately chilled by the mountain breeze, as well as the freezing wind blowing from the Yatsugatake mountains directly opposite. After bundling up, I set off along a busy road past an equally busy dairy farm, but soon turned right onto a quiet countryside lane through mixed forest, the Yatsugatake Makiba Line (八ヶ岳まきばライン) which I’d follow for most of the hike. I soon reached an open section with pastures on each side of the road and wide views in both directions.

Mt Ogura (left), Mt Otoko (center) & Mt Tengu (right)

Autumn Leaves near Senga Falls

I was glad to get a view so soon on the hike. Looking west, I could see the Southern Yatsugatake mountains, its peaks tinged in white and its foothills tinted red; on the east side were the lower but more numerous peaks of the Oku-Chichibu mountains. Low clouds had appeared directly above Yatsugatake, casting shade on its steep rocky flanks; it made me wonder if the sunny weather would hold. The road dipped into a shallow valley and after crossing a bridge, I reached another viewpoint of the Oku-Chichibu mountains.

Autumn Colours above Senga Falls

Metal Staircase for Senga Falls

I was stunned by the contrast of light blue sky and pale yellow susuki grass. In the distance, I could make out, from left to right, Mt Ogura, Mt Otoko, Mt Tengu, Mt Yokoo and Mt Meshimori. The susuki was swaying in successive breezes, fluffy clouds moving south to north along the valley between the two mountain ranges. As the noon chime played, I remembered I was on a tight schedule and set off again, the occasional passing car interrupting the peaceful surroundings. I turned left at a junction with another road, staying on the Makiba line, and followed the road as it descended into a forested valley.

The Okuchichibu mountains with pastures in the foreground

Heading down into the Chikuma River Valley

I was pleased to discover the entrance to a hiking trail just past a bridge over a river. It was signposted for a waterfall and although time was short today, I decided to check it out. After a five-minute walk along a rough path, I reached the top of a metal staircase. From the base, it was a short distance to the roaring Senga Falls (千ヶ滝), its flow likely inflated due to the recent rains. After taking a while to admire the tumbling water, I retraced my steps to a spot next to the river where I sat on a boulder for a lunch break.

Clouds heading towards Mt Asama

Dark Clouds above Yatsugatake

I was treated to a magical scenery of falling leaves with every gust of wind. The background music of rushing water nearly nursed me to sleep but I had to move along as it was nearly 1pm. Back on the road, I was surprised to see workers in uniform sweeping and raking the fallen leaves in the middle of nowhere. I turned right at a junction, staying on the main road. After another straight section with pastures and a view of the Oku-chichibu mountains, I turned left at the next junction, leaving the main road for a lane, also part of the Makiba line, going up through mixed forest.

Autumn Colours along the Chikuma River Valley

Koumi Line before Umijiri Station

I now passed the highest point of today’s hike (1410m) completely surrounded by orange larches. I caught some movement in the forest and spotted a pair of deer before they bounded away. Soon the road veered right, exited the forest, and descended through farmland where people were busy working the fields. Far away to the north, beyond the green lettuce fields, was Mt Asama; turning around, dark menacing clouds threatened to engulf Yatsugatake. I continued downhill and soon the sound of rushing water could be heard; peering through the trees on the left side, I spotted a river flowing through a forested valley. Beyond a bridge the valley deepened, offering sweeping views of the opposite ridge.

Autumn Colours at Ioin Temple

Footbridge over Otsuki River

This was the most beautiful section of the hike, the mountainside across the valley resplendent with Autumn colours and enhanced by the afternoon sun. Around 2h30, I reached the base of the valley and crossed the Chikuma river, the longest river in Japan; a little later, I passed through the small town around Umijiri station (1035m), the lowest point of today’s hike. After quickly checking out Ioin Temple, I followed a road heading back up into the mountains. Upon reaching a plateau, I turned right through a small community, and crossed a wooden footbridge high above a river.

Mt Ogura from the Footbridge over Mt Otsuki

Fiery Maple Leaf at Matsubara Lake

At the midway point, I had an impressive view of the orange-hued river valley, with Mt Ogura in the far distance, two puffy clouds floating overhead. It was now past 3pm so I hurried along, anxious to catch my bus. Here and there rice was still being harvested in individual fields, sharing the land with solar farms. The sun had sunk below the clouds on the west side, muting the colours of Cho Lake along the way. Soon after, I finally arrived at Matsubara Lake (松原湖), the main attraction of Matsubara Highland (松原湖高原). I followed a path along the lakeshore admiring the red and yellow colours along the way, before hopping on the bus for Yahho Hot spring. After a short but refreshing bath, I boarded the bus on its return trip to Matsubarako station.

Autumn Colours at Matsubara Lake

Lake View at the End of the Hike

In total, the hike took nearly five hours, mostly along paved roads which enabled me to walk at a fast pace. I was glad to have caught the Autumn colours at their peak, the first time for me to see them this season. Unlike the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail, signposting was non-existent and I had to rely on my phone GPS to find my way. This could explain why I saw no other hikers along the way. In the future I hope to be able to do sections 1 and 11, as they also seem doable as one day trips via public transport, and perhaps in a different season.

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Mt Rakanji (1058m) & Mt Shirosuna (920m), Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, October 12, 2025

I had been up Mt Rakanji once before when I visited Shosenkyo in October 2013. Back then, I drove from Kofu and used the ropeway, since the main purpose was to explore the spectacular Mitake-Shosenkyo gorge. I was reminded of this interesting peak when I saw it from Mt Shiro last year. Looking at my Mountains of Yamanashi guidebook, I found a relatively easy hike traversing this mountain from north to south, including another peak I had never climbed. As an added bonus, I’d also be able to check out the nearby Kanazakura Shrine.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d take the Chuo line limited express to Kofu, and then ride a bus to Shosenkyo, getting off at the end of the line. From there, I’d follow a paved road on foot for another 30 minutes to get to the trail entrance. For the return, I’d catch the same bus, two stops up the line at the entrance of the gorge. I planned to get off at Yumura Onsen, on the bus route and inside Kofu city, for a quick hot spring bath at Yumura Hotel before catching the train back.

Trail before the the Top of the Ropeway (left) Trail for Mt Rakanji (right)

Stone Steps & Chains on Mt Rakanji (left) View from Mt Shirosuna (right)

The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning and overcast in the afternoon, with temperatures approaching 30° in the Kofu basin, unusually high for the season. I hoped it would feel cooler up the mountains; I also hoped I’d be able to get a glimpse of Mt Fuji and the South Alps before the clouds rolled in; finally, since the Autumn leaves were only due next month, I was counting on smaller crowds than usual. I was looking forward to a relaxing early Autumn hike in a familiar area.

Shinto Gate at the Entrance of Kanazakura Shrine

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains near the Start of the Hike

It was a cloudy morning as I left Tokyo but after entering the Kofu Basin, I was greeted with blue skies and a view of the South Alps, still clear of snow. I arrived at Kofu station just after 10am, and after standing in line waiting for the “Green Line” (グリーンライン), felt lucky to be seated on the crowded bus for the fifty-minute ride to Shosenkyo-Takiue, five minutes on foot from the Shosenkyo ropeway (昇仙峡ロープウェイ). After observing hoverflies busily nectaring at purple Asters and Jorogumo spiders hungrily eating their prey, I set off along the Shosenkyo Line road and away from the various tourist attractions surrounding Sengataki station (仙娥滝駅) at the base of the ropeway. A little before noon, I arrived at a shrine entrance at a bend in the road.

View of Mt Kenashi (left) and the South Alps (right)

Start of the Dirt Road for Mt Rakanji

I was impressed by the bright red Shinto gate (“torii”), surrounded by colourful pennants flapping in the breeze, and also by several towering cedars at the top of a steep flight of steps. A small sign propped at the base of one of them indicated it was part of the 100 trees of historical interest in Yamanashi prefecture, although I couldn’t tell whether it was taller than its neighbours. At the top of another flight of steps, I reached the main building of Kanazakura Shrine (金桜神社), another striking bright red structure. On the opposite side was a gravel path with an enticing sign for a nearby viewpoint of Mt Fuji.

Wooden Walkway on the Way to Mt Rakanji

View of Kurofuji (left) and Mt Kinpu (right)

I couldn’t resist making the short round-trip, especially since the sun was shining and the trail seemed easy to walk. After a 10-minute walk through tall cedars, I arrived at an open space with a view of Mt Fuji framed by pines to the south; looking north, I could make out the broad summit ridge of Mt Kinpu, recognisable by the manmade boulder formation protruding from its highest point. After a short break to enjoy the peaceful surroundings, I retraced my steps to the base of the shrine, and a short distance away, turned right up a road signposted for today’s mountain. After a few bends, I reached the end of the paved road and entered an open space with a view to the northeast.

Forest Road along the Level Ridgetop

Mt Kaya (left), Mt Tachioka (center) and Kurofuji (right)

I was glad to get such a wide view so soon on the hike. On the left side, I could see Kurofuji, its cone-shaped summit not visible from this angle, and on the right side, was Mt Kinpu again, its rocky flanks now visible from this higher elevation. I followed a path for a few minutes westwards and off the main trail, to get a view of the South Alps, hazy blue in the far distance and with golden yellow Japanese Pampas grass (“susuki”) in the foreground. I made my way back through the “susuki” field and turned right up a dirt road. I soon reached a cleared area at the edge of the forest with a view on the north and east sides.

Mt Fuji from near the Panorama-dai Station (2013 photo)

Mt Kinpu and Lake Nosen from the Panorama-dai Viewpoint (2013 photo)

I was pleasantly surprised to get such a wide view on this side of the mountain, which now included Mt Tachioka at the very left and Lake Nosen at the very right. Mt Kinpu rose prominently in the background, the second highest peak in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park and a 100 famous mountain of Japan. Since it was nearly 1h30, I found a suitable tree stump to sit on for a late lunch break. As forecast, the clouds had spread across the sky from the south, providing some welcome shade on a warm Autumn day. I set off again along a winding track sticking close to the level ridgeline, and just before 2pm, exited the forest just below the Panorama-dai Station (パノラマ台駅) of the Shosenkyo ropeway.

Mt Fuji (left) and Mt Kenashi (right) on the way to Mr Rakanji

Mt Shirosuna from Mt Rakanji

I sped through the sightseeing spots around the ropeway and up the trail for today’s first peak, taking care in the rocky sections and making good use of the safety chains; luckily, the thin pre-autumn leaves crowds meant I could make good time, and at 2h30, I reached the summit of Mt Rakanji (羅漢寺山らかんじやま rakanjiyama) also known as Mt Yasaburo (弥三郎岳やさぶろうだけ yasaburoyama), a famous 100 mountain of Yamanashi. I took a moment to enjoy the alpine-like scenery of white smooth rocks and pine trees, as well as the 360° view from the top; Mt Fuji now had a cloud perched on its summit crater in lieu of snow. I then retraced my steps back to the ropeway area and headed down a half-hidden path on the south side.

South View from the Top of Mt Rakanji

Between Mt Fuji and Mt Kenashi lies Kofu City

I was happy to leave the crowds behind although I now found myself walking all alone through forest in the middle of the afternoon. Fortunately the path was easy to follow, and at 3pm, I arrived at the turn-off on the left side for today’s next peak. It took me about ten minutes of climbing to reach an exposed rocky area with a view of the ridge leading to Mt Rakanji. A few more minutes brought me to another such place but with a view southwards of Mt Fuji and the Kofu basin. Finally, after a couple more minutes of walking through the smooth white boulders and gnarly pines, I arrived at the top of Mt Shirosuna (白砂山しろすなやま shirosunayama), aptly translated as white sand mountain.

Trail below the Shosenkyo Panorama-dai Station

Trail for Mt Shirosuna

I was delighted to get a view of the peak I had been standing on a short while ago, allowing me to appreciate its steep and rugged shape. I had now fallen behind schedule so I retraced my steps to the main trail without a break. It took me just 15 minutes to reach another turn-off, this time to the right. A few seconds later, I reached the Mt Shiro (白山 900m) viewpoint, a minor peak with a view of the South Alps, now partially hidden by clouds, as well as the Kurofuji Volcanic group, its highest peaks wrapped in mist. I continued on my way, following the level path through mixed forest as it hugged the mountain side, the late afternoon gloom gradually increasing.

View of the Kofu Basin on the way to Mt Shirosuna

“Alpine” Scenery near the Top of Mt Shirasuna

I wondered if I’d reach the base before sunset, quite early at this time of the year. I picked up the pace and around 4pm I reached a junction: the Furusato Nature Observation Trail (ふるさと自然観察路) which I had been following since the ropeway went right; however, I went down the left trail, leaving the ridgeline. Interestingly the signage around this point was a lot more polished than before even though I was far from any sightseeing spots. I also saw no other hikers during this section, possibly because most people planned to visit next month when the Autumn colours would be at their peak.

White Sand Rock near the Top of Mt Shirasuna

Mt Rakanji from the Top of Mt Shirosuna

I felt relief when I popped out of the dark forest onto a paved road. About a hundred meters further the trail dived back into the forest, but I could now hear the sound of a busy road in the valley below. At 4h30, I passed through a wildlife gate next to a spooky abandoned building, and arrived back on the Shosenkyo Line Road and Nagatoro Bridge (長潭橋), beyond which was the Shosenkyo Entrance bus stop. Including the one-hour Shrine visit the entire hike had taken 5 hours, and could have been extended with a walk up the gorge at the start.

A Level Trail Hugging the Mountain Side

The Kurofuji Volcanic Group from Mt Shiro

Sunset was still half an hour away but the sun had already vanished behind the mountain ridges casting the valley bottoms into premature darkness. It took just twenty-minutes on a mostly empty bus to reach Yumura Onsen; after a refreshing hot bath, I caught a city bus for the ten-minute ride to Kofu station, from where it was a 90-minute comfortable ride on the limited express train back to Tokyo.

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Okutama Old Road (Highest Point 619m), Okutama Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, October 5, 2025

I had already walked the Okutama Old Road, also known as the Okutama Historical Road, twice before; however, it had been 8 years since my last visit, so I decided to hike it again to refresh my memory of this interesting trail. I would start from Okutama Lake and walk mostly downhill to Okutama station; by doing it in this direction, I could tackle the steeper sections near the lake first, and also get better views of the Tama river valley.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Start of the Hiking Trail (left) Short Uphill Section (right)

Level Section (left) Near the Highest Section (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I would ride the green car on the Ome line from Shinjuku, and then change to a regular car on the Okutama line at Ome station; from Okutama station, it was a short bus ride to the lake. The weather was supposed to be mostly cloudy without rain and temperatures in the low twenties, ideal for some light hiking. I was looking forward to a relaxing, and hopefully spider-free, hike in the mountains west of Tokyo.

Trail before the Rest Spot (left) Road after the Rest Spot (right)

Steps (left) and Forest Section (right) near the End of the Hike

I was delighted to ride a mostly empty bus to Okutama lake, possibly because in this season most hikers prefer to head to higher destinations. After a quick lunch at a picnic table with a view of Okutama Lake and Oguchi Dam, I set off at 12h30. Soon after, I reached the entrance of the “Old Road” (むかし道 mukashi michi), hidden behind the Mizune Parking lot. After carefully crossing the busy Ome-Kaido Avenue, I headed up a steep paved road.

View of Okutama Lake and Ogouchi Dam

The Okutama mountains from the “Old Road” (2012 Photo)

I was startled to feel some raindrops as I reached a fork; I opted for the shorter, right branch, in case it turned into a downpour, which happened in 2017. Fortunately it soon let up, and after passing a bamboo grove and a view of Okutama lake on the right side, I arrived at the start of a hiking trail; this is also where it meets up with the longer, left branch. After a short uphill section, the trail descended steeply through thick forest, but became level after crossing a stream on a moss-covered concrete bridge.

View of the Tama River from the “Old Road” (2012 Photo)

Paved Part of the Okutama Old Road

I had forgotten the first part of the trail was so narrow, hugging a steep mountainside; however, a metal railing on the valley side ensured it could be walked safely. After some ascending, I reached a metal cross at the highest point of today’s hike, also the turnoff for Mt Mutsuishi; beyond this point, the trail descended into the valley; on the way down, I had another glimpse of the Ogouchi dam through a gap in the vegetation.

Some Sun on a Cloudy Day

Shidakura Bridge across Tama River

I was shocked how close the dam still was after one hour of hiking; however from now I’d be following the Tama river, moving in a mostly straight line towards my destination. I eventually reached the end of the trail near a rest spot with picnic benches and momiji trees; I now found myself walking along a paved road, the river at times visible through the tree branches. At 2h30, I passed Shidakura bridge (しだくら橋), the second of two suspended footbridges; I walked to the halfway point although it’s not part of the Old Road.

View of the Tama River from Shidakura Bridge

Walking on a Gravel Road

I enjoyed views of the Tama River looking down from the bridge; I also had views of spiders when looking up through the steel wires supporting the bridge. At 3pm, I passed by a modern, clean bathroom inside a traditional building, courtesy of OPT or Okutama Pikapika Toilet (“pikapika” means “with a sparkle”). In total, I saw three such toilet buildings, each as sparkling clean as the other; apparently they are also in charge of the one next to Okutama station.

Modern Bathroom inside a Traditional Building

Traces of the Old Railway Line

Past a house with a huge firewood stack, I saw remains of the railway that used to run through the valley; it was abandoned 80 years ago after the completion of the present-day road. At a bend in the road, a signpost guided me onto a footpath on the right side; I followed it through tall cedars, down a small valley, across a narrow bridge, and around a rocky outcrop, after which I found myself walking on a stone-paved path.

Footpath near the End of the Hike

Stone-paved Section Near the End of the “Old Road” (2012 photo)

I stepped up the pace as the light was starting to fade quickly on this cloudy day. Shortly after crossing another disused railway section half-hidden by grass, I arrived back at the Ome-Kaido Avenue at 4h30, also the trailhead of the Okutama Old Road. It took another 5 minutes to get to Okutama Station, from where it was a ninety-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

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The Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail Part 2 (highest point 830m), Komoro City, Nagano Prefecture, Saturday, September 27, 2025

I had been looking forward to exploring more of the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail since my hike there nearly one year ago. Originally, I had wanted to go later in Autumn, to enjoy cooler and clearer weather; however, I realised that if I wanted to see the scenery of golden rice fields, I needed to get there before the end of the harvest, roughly the end of September. I had recently acquired a lightweight foldable umbrella that doubled as a parasol, to protect myself from the sun on long road sections, so I felt well equipped to return earlier than planned.

Above the Chikuma River (left) Through a Bamboo Grove (right)

Up a Country Lane (left) In the Shade of Trees (right)

This time, I’d head south from Komoro station, making a wide circle combining the Chikumagahara and Mimakigahara routes, and ending at Aguri no Yu like last time. I had ample time to complete this clockwise loop through the Nagano countryside; however, I already knew that the many views along this panoramic trail would delay me, especially since the weather was supposed to be clear and sunny all day, a perfect Autumn weather according to the weather forecast.

Chikuma River from Modori Bridge

Mt Asama from Modori Bridge

It felt pleasantly cool as I stepped off the train at Komoro station a little after 1030. After picking up some supplies at a nearby convenience store, I ducked into a tunnel under the Shinano railway line and headed down a road into the Chikuma River valley. At a bend in the road, I turned right onto a track partially hidden by vegetation, following a sign for the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (浅間･八ヶ岳パノラマトレイル). At the bottom of a steep staircase, I passed an open-air exhibition of an old water wheel (“suisha“), used for generating electricity from 1919 to 1995.

Mt Asama from Kubo Village

Cliffs above the Chikuma River

I briefly inspected this curious relic from the past, and then turned left onto a small paved road, past Nishiura dam, a modern replacement for the water wheel. I was walking with the Chikuma river on my right, and harvested fields on my left. I wondered if I had missed the harvest completely but marvelled at the interesting shape of the rice bundles, resembling tiny straw huts. At 1130, I crossed the Modori Bridge (もどり橋), from where I had a sweeping view of the entire Asama mountain range, almost entirely clear of clouds. I then headed up a steep road and at the top turned left onto a main road which I left almost immediately for a dirt road alongside a bamboo grove.

Country Lane leading to the Base of the Cliffs

View East towards Karuizawa

I was glad to be walking under the shade of trees, above the cliffs on the south bank of the Chikuma river, as the sun was getting hotter and hotter. I had reached another viewpoint of Mt Asama, just as the noon chime echoed throughout the area. Closer by, I could see the impressive bluffs on the north bank of the river. After passing through Kubo village (久保集落), the path headed uphill steeply and reentered the forest.

Hidden Plateau above Kubo Village

Switchback Path up the bluff

I soon emerged into a kind of hidden plateau at the base of some bluffs. I made a detour to get a closer look, and also happened to get a good view of Karuizawa to the east. I knew I’d have to get above these cliffs but for now the trail headed lazily southwards; around this point I nearly stepped on a snake sunbathing on the hot road. I eventually reached Iwane (岩根) and here the path turned sharply right and uphill again, through a dark bamboo forest.

Closeup Look at the Bluff above Iwane

Yatsugake from Mimaki Plateau

I recoiled in fear as I spotted the webs of the Jorogumo spider strung between the bamboo, its yellow and black owners hanging lazily in the air at head height above the path. Sometimes ducking and sometimes clearing a way with a stick, I quickly reached a switchback path climbing through mixed forest, thankfully free of spiders. One bend took me directly to the base of a huge porous rock face, rising out of the forest. At 1pm, I exited the forest into the sunlit Mimaki Plateau (御牧ヶ原 mimakigahara). Almost immediately I came upon a harvest in progress on the left side.

Mt Asama from Mimaki Plateau

Blue Asama with Yellow and Green Fields

I was delighted to see the rice being harvested, an even rarer sight than the golden rice fields. I continued on my way, now walking between small blue ponds and yellow rice stalks; the outline of Yatsugatake, mostly clear of clouds, was visible against the sun on the south side. After a short descent, I reached Himamu-ike Pond (干間無池), which I had also visited on last year’s hike. Here I left the Chikuma River Trail (千曲川コース) and joined the Mimaki Plateau Trail (御牧ヶ原コース), first heading west and then south through farmed countryside dotted with small blue ponds.

Clouds Reflected in one of the Ponds of Mimaki Plateau

Golden Rice Fields and Blue Autumn Sky

Along the way, I had some superb views of Mt Asama, with an ever-changing scenery of already harvested and yet to be harvested fields, as well as blue rounded ponds, in the foreground. At 2pm, I arrived at the highest point of the hike, a mostly level area above the Prefecture Agricultural University; oddly enough, it was also the location of a driving school. It was also the southernmost point of the hike, and I had another view of Yatsugatake southwards between the hills, as well as the Chichibu mountains to the east. I sat in the grass in the shade of a couple of conifers for a late lunch with a view. After half an hour, I resumed my hike, now heading northwards and downhill, and soon passed another bucolic rice harvest scene.

Harvested Rice Drying on Racks

Drying Rice with Mt Asama in the background

I spent a few minutes observing this seasonal human activity taking place along a narrow valley protected by tall pines on the far side. From my higher vantage point, I could see the various stages of the harvest: the cutting, the bundling and finally drying on racks. I continued on my way and after passing through a tunnel under the Chikuma Viewline, turned left up a slope and soon reached another viewpoint near the crest of a small hill called “viewpoint hill” (展望の丘). To the north was Mt Asama again, the features of its various peaks clearly visible on this fine day.

Lunch Spot under a Couple of Conifers

Lily-covered Maki Pond

For the first time of the day, I had a wide view on the west side: I could see the gentle ridgelines of Northern Yatsugatake, as well as the lower mountains of central Nagano; however the North Alps were hidden in the clouds. It was now 3pm and I had to quicken the pace to stay on schedule. I headed down the other side of the hill, and then turned right onto a bigger road which I followed for a while, down into a small forested river valley dividing the plateau into two halves. After a shorter climb up the other side, I merged with last year’s hike, although from the opposite direction.

Rice Harvest Scene on the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail

Freshly Cut Rice (left) and Drying Rice on Racks (right)

After walking under some dizzyingly tall larches, needles still green in this season, I turned right onto a trail heading downhill towards the Chikuma River Valley, leaving behind the Mimaki Plateau Trail, as well as last year’s route. It ended at a road at a point somewhat below my final destination; however, I noticed another path on the right, running through the woods and parallel to the road. I still had a little way to go so I rushed up it and soon passed a sign for the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail, meaning I was headed in the right direction.

View West towards Northern Yatsugatake

Mt Asama from Viewpoint Hill

I had one more view of the highest peaks of Mt Asama through a gap in the trees on the left side. Soon after, I emerged onto a road where I turned left, and after a few more minutes, arrived at Aguri no Yu just after 4pm. After a refreshing bath with a view of Mt Asama, I called a taxi for the ten-minute ride back to Komori station. It was a short ride on the Koumi line to Saku-daira station where I hopped on the shinkansen for the one-hour ride back to Tokyo.

Green Fields with Mt Asama in the background

View of Mt Asama from near the end of the Hike

This second hike along the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail took five hours, slightly shorter than last year. Although it had less cultural highlights, the views were better. I was also lucky with my timing that allowed me to catch the rice harvest in progress, not to mention the superb weather. Amazingly I saw no other hikers the whole day, maybe because everyone was hiking on Mt Asama and Yatsugatake, and other high-altitude mountains. For now, I’ve completed most of this trail but in the future I’d like to explore more Long Trails in Japan.

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Mt Teppogi (1291m) & Mt Takazasu (1174m), Oyama Town & Yamanakako Village, Shizuoka & Yamanashi Prefectures, Saturday, June 7, 2025

I found out about this mountain in one of my guidebooks. I had hiked Mt Ishiwari and Mt Mikuni, north and south of it respectively, but never the section in-between. Looking at my map, I saw that I could traverse from Myojin Pass in Shizuoka to Yamanaka lake in Yamanashi. For the first part, I’d follow my 2019 hike but I’d skip Mt Mikuni, entirely in the trees, by following a road to Mikuni Pass. From there, I would head north, passing 3 peaks, before heading down into the Fuji Five Lake Area; Once I reached the end of the trail, I’d follow another road and end the hike at Ishiwarinoyu hot spring.

Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

Start of the Hike (left) Road for Mikuni Pass (right)

Trail for Mt Teppogi (left) Trail for Mt Takazasu (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the first “Mt Fuji” limited express from Shinjuku to Suruga-Oyama, and there catch a Fujikyu seasonal bus for Myojin Pass. For the return, Google Maps suggested going through Kawaguchiko, but I knew from past experience that the Fuji excursion limited express trains would be fully booked far in advance. Instead, I decided to use a taxi to get to Asahigaoka where I could catch a bus for Gotemba station and ride the last “Mt Fuji” limited express back to Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to clear in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon, in tune with my early start and early finish plan. I was looking forward to a hike far from Tokyo and hoped I’d get a view of Mt Fuji before it vanished in the clouds.

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View of Hakone from near Myojin Pass

Trail between Myojin Pass and Mt Mikuni

The sun was already high in the sky at 7am as the limited express made its way through Tokyo. After getting off at Suruga-Oyama station at 8am, I hurried to the bus stop but still found myself standing for the 3o-minute ride to the pass, as many people had arrived just before me on the local train. Surprisingly, I had the trail mostly to myself after starting out from Myojin Pass (明神峠 900m) at 9am, since most people first headed to nearby Mt Yubune (I had done the same 6 years ago).

Road leading to Mikuni Pass

View of the Tanzawa Mountains

I soon had a view on Mt Ashitaka and the Hakone mountains through the trees on the left side. It was already quite warm but fortunately most of this section was in the tree shade. At 9h30, I reached a paved road beyond which the trail for Mt Mikuni rose steeply through the forest. A signpost with a small metal figure of Kintaro perched on top told me I was at the halfway point between the Myojin and Mikuni passes. I turned right onto the paved road, now entering Kanagawa prefecture.

Looking ahead at Mt Teppogi

Looking back at Mt Mikuni

Almost immediately, I got a view of the Tanzawa mountains on the right side, my first time to see them from this angle. Further along, the view was lost behind trees; I picked up the pace to get this boring section quickly behind me, unexpectedly busy with cars and motorcycles. Half an hour later, I reached a huge parking lot at Mikuni Pass (三国峠 1164m), completely filled with cars; apparently this is a popular spot for hiking and escaping the early summer heat. Here, I left the road and turned right onto a trail, now entering Yamanashi prefecture as well as the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.

First View of Mt Fuji above Mikuni Pass

The Climbing Season Starts Soon

After a few minutes, I had my first Fuji view of the day, as I left the forest for a grassy area that continued all the way up the mountainside. Mt Fuji was mostly bare of snow with only a few white streaks around the summit crater, the climbing season less than a month away. I headed up the dirt path as it went straight up, getting steeper and steeper, passing several people on their way down. The grassy surroundings, due to past volcanic eruptions, offered plenty of wonderful views of the Fuji Five Lake Area. Less than half an hour after leaving Mikuni Pass, I reached the summit of Mt Teppogi (鉄砲木ノ頭てっぽうぎのあたま teppougi-n0-atama also known as Mt Myojin 明神山), marked by a stone shrine; instead of “Mt” the Japanese name uses “head”, an apt description of the wide and slight rounded summit area.

Heading straight up Mt Teppogi

View of Mt Fuji and Yamanaka Lake

The panoramic view was stunning, one of the best I had seen in a while; I was glad I had woken up early today to travel so far. The high-altitude clouds that had appeared one hour ago were getting blown away by high-altitude winds, creating fantastic patterns in the sky above Fuji. On the south side was Mt Mikuni, covered in green forest; looking west, I could see Mt Fuji and Yamanaka Lake with the white peaks of the South Alps visible in the distance; to the north was Mt Ishiwari, with behind it, Mt Mitsutoge and Mt Mishotai, left and right respectively. It was too early for a lunch break, only 11am, so after enjoying the view, I set off again.

View from the Summit of Mt Teppogi

A Popular Spot to See Mt Fuji

The path headed straight down, through thick forest covering the east side. I moved quickly with no views to distract me, and half an hour later, passed Kiridoshi Pass (切通峠 1050m), after which the path started to climb gently. The trees thinned, allowing some green grass and blue sky to gradually reappear. I was now walking along the Tokai Nature Trail (東海自然歩道), which I had last followed just 6 months ago. As the noon chime started to play through the valley, I arrived at Mt Takazasu (高指山たかざすやま takazasu-yama). The view on the west side, beyond dried stalks of pampas grass (“susuki“), was similar to the previous one, although with more clouds. Since it was noon, I sat on the shaded side of a wooden platform for an early lunch break.

Mt Ishiwari (Center), Mitsutoge (back left) & Mt Mishotai (back right)

Clouds Spreading through the Sky

After setting off again, I found myself walking through more thick forest, along a mostly level path; although I was deprived of views in all directions, I was glad to be in shade at the hottest time of the day. Very soon, I reached the third and final summit of the day, Fujimisaki-daira (富士岬平 1170m); this time, the “Mt” was replaced by “plateau”, indicating its relatively small prominence along the ridgeline. By now, puffs of cloud were covering the highest part of Mt Fuji, giving it kind of retro hairstyle. After a short break, I headed down a path on west side, leaving behind the Tokai Nature Trail.

Mid-morning Blue Skies

Grass Reappearing below Mt Takazasu

The path was steep and eroded making this descent the toughest part of today’s hike. Fortunately, I soon reached a road leading through an area of mostly deserted villas. I always enjoy walking past holiday homes, trying to imagine what it must be like to spend a summer weekend there. I eventually reached a main road where I turned left. After a 15-minute walk, I reached the entrance to the hot spring and was disappointed to find out that it was closed. Apparently they were doing some temporary renovations, which wasn’t the case when I first planned the hike a few weeks ago. I was confident I could find some alternative and marched on under the hot sun to the Yamanakako Hirano tourist office.

View from Mt Takazasu

The Clouds have Reappeared

I was delighted when the lady from the tourist office told me there was a a hot spring hotel just down the street that accepted day trippers. Although it didn’t have an outdoor bath, I was happy to be able to wash off the sweat and change into some fresh clothes. At 2pm, I had the bath to myself, with a view of the ridge I had just hiked on the west side. One hour later, a taxi dropped me off at the Asahigaoka bus terminal. Although, the bus for Gotemba showed up late, typical for the Fuji Five Lake area, I still arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare, and a little before 5h30, I boarded the limited express for the comfortable ride back to Shinjuku.

Trail between Mt Takazasu and Fujimisaki-daira

Mt Fuji in the Clouds

In total this hike took about 5 hours, with little ascending and descending, although including travel time, it was nearly a 14-hour outing. This was mainly because I took a longer way back to avoid the masses of tourists heading back from Kawaguchiko, and also because of my preference for limited express trains and post-hike hot spring baths. Catching the seasonal bus to Myojin Pass was also a great way to get to the area, although it requires a very early departure (in my case, 6am); in this case I was rewarded with great views that I may not have gotten with a later departure. Hopefully, I can redo this hike, or a variant, in a different season when the Ishiwariyu hot spring is open.

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Mt Katsuro (1123m), Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday, April 27, 2025

Ever since climbing Mt Gassan, I had been hoping to do another hike along the Aizu-Kinugawa line, deep inside the Nikko National Park but well off the tourist trail. Looking through my guidebook, I found a suitable mountain, its trail entrance near a train station. Although the summit was in the trees and mostly up and down the same way, the path seemed to be well-maintained with no tricky sections; along the way, it was possible to get views of 3 different lakes.

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Initially, I had planned to go in the Autumn since apparently the leaves are quite spectacular, but online reports of leeches in that season made me switch to Spring. While researching the itinerary, I was delighted to find out that Tobu railways was running an extra return train in the afternoons during Golden week, the “Skytree Train”; this gave me an extra hour to enjoy my time in a destination far away from Tokyo.

Hiking in the Nikko National Park 日光国立公園

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Start of the Hike (left) a Well-maintained Trail (right)

A Mix of Flat Sections (left) and Log Staircases (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu limited express “Revaty” from Kita-senju directly to Yunishigawa-onsen, famous for its snow house festival in the winter. For the return, I decided to ride the Skytree train only as far as Shimo-imaichi, and then switch to the Revaty coming from Nikko, since looking online, I noticed that the latter had more comfortable seats.

Spring Green Lower down (left) Bare Branches Higher up (right)

Below the Summit Ridge (left) Heading up to the Ridge (right)

The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny all day, with slightly cool temperatures, perfectly normal considering I’d be nearly 150 km north of Tokyo. If I finished on schedule, I could relax in a hot spring bath at Yunosato onsen on the 2nd floor of the roadside station connected to the train station. I was looking forward to revisiting the mountains north or Kinugawa after a 3 year interval, and curious to see whether the new green of Spring had finally arrived.

Spring Green at the Start of the Hike

Ridgeline Leading to the Summit Area

As I stepped off the train, I was surrounded by darkness, since Yunishigawa-onsen station (湯西川温泉駅) is located inside a tunnel running under today’s mountain. After riding an elevator to the surface, I got ready inside the Yunishigawa-onsen Roadside station, and at 12h30, started up the hiking trail at the far side of the parking area. After half an hour of climbing via a series of log staircases, I reached an electric pylon with views on both sides.

View South of Mt Takahara and Umijiri Bridge

Flat Section Half Way Up

I was grateful to get a good view so early in the hike: looking south, I could see Umijiri Bridge spanning Ojika River, and in the back, Mt Keicho, one of the summits of Mt Takahara; on the north side, was Yunishikawa Lake, with Mt Takase rising behind it; in the far distance was Mt Arakai. I soon continue along a well-defined path, passing an open shelter on the left side. I was surrounded by the bright green of new Spring, but as I gradually gained altitude, I reentered an area of bare branches, creating fantastical shapes against the blue sky. Branches swaying in the light breeze created the only sounds, as birds had not yet returned from their migratory trips.

Walking under Leaning Trees

Walking along a Well-Defined Path

Here and there, I glimpsed distant snowy peaks through the branches, and was glad I had chosen to visit in this season. Although it was officially the start of the Golden Week, I saw only one other hiker on the mountain, perhaps because most people prefer to visit in May, when the whole mountain is covered in new green. At a bend on the east side, I glimpsed the white ski runs of Hunter Mountain, open till the end of Golden Week. I was now following a nearly level trail heading westwards through silent forest. Shortly after reaching the summit ridge, a view on the south side opened up above some green larches.

View South of the Tochigi Mountains

Nearly at the Summit

I took a moment to enjoy the view of the mountains of Tochigi, the only recognisable peak being Mt Gassan on the right side. One of the interesting aspects of this hike is the sight the of the wooden figures of the 7 Lucky Gods (“shichifukujin” 七福神) placed along the trail. I now passed Daikokuten (大黒天), the God of Wealth, one of the more popular ones. A few minutes later, just before 2pm, I reached an open shelter at the top of Mt Katsuro (葛老山かつろうやま katsurou-yama), a 100 famous mountain of tochigi. Through the branches on the west side, I could see Mt Tashiro; on the north side, I had a double lake view, Yunishigawa lake on the left side, and Ikari lake on the right side; to the northeast, I had a good view of Mt Hiruga. I sat next to the statue of Jurojin (寿老人), the God of Longevity, for a late lunch.

Log Steps above the First Shelter

Mt Takase from near the Electric Pylon

Afterwards, I decided to explore the ridge extending southwest as I was ahead of schedule. I was rewarded with glimpses of Yashio Lake and Mt Nyoho, one of the Oku-Nikko peaks. A little after 2h30, I started to head down the same way, spotting new details such as Magnolia flowers (“kobushi“) and mountain cherry trees (“yama-zakura“). Shortly after 3pm, I arrived back at the viewpoint at the electric pylon. Here, I turned left, for an alternative descent suggested by my guidebook. After heading down a short way, I reached another pylon, where I had a view of the foothills of Mt Takahara on the east side.

Mountain Sakura and Mt Takase

Yunishi River near Yunishigawa Station

Directly ahead on the north side, I had the best view of the day, Mt Takase and Yunishigawa Lake. The path became a little rough and I encountered the first and only tricky section of the day, a short but steep descent into a gully, thankfully roped for safety. After ascending the other side, I popped out onto a road next to Nishikawa-danchi, a group of houses on the mountain side. I then followed a road to its junction with a main road, where I turned right. After crossing a tunnel, I arrived back at the roadside station at 4pm, roughly one hour before my return train. I had a leisurely hot soak, practically by myself, and shortly after 5pm, I waited on the dark platform for the Skytree train to appear out of the darkness.

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Arahata-Fuji (119m), Tokorozawa, Higashi-Murayama & Higashi-Yamato Cities, Saitama & Tokyo Prefectures, Sunday, March 2 & 9, 2025

I was looking for a low-altitude hike near Tokyo to stay clear of the snow that usually covers the mountains surrounding the Kanto area in this season. I also wanted something relatively easy and straightforward to help me get back in shape after being out sick for a couple of weeks. I had explored the parks surrounding the Sayama and Tama lakes by bicycle many years ago. I thought it would be a good chance to revisit them on foot and have a closer look at the sights along the way.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Seibu Laview Limited Express to Tokorozawa, and from there, walk half an hour to the entrance of Hachikoku-yama Park (八国山緑地). After traversing the park, I’d make a short detour to Hatomine Park (鳩峯公園) to visit one of the many Totoro forests in the area, as well as Hachiman Shrine (八幡神社) at its eastern end. I’d then head over to Arahata Citizen’s forest (荒幡富士市民の森) where I could “climb” Arahata-Fuji (荒幡富士), an artificial Mt Fuji with 10 real stations. After checking out the view from the summit, I could drop by the nearby Sayama Hills Flora & Fauna Interaction Center (狭山丘陵いきものふれあいの里センター) to learn more about the plants and animals that grow and live in the surrounding forest.

Hiking in the Sayama Natural Park 都立狭山自然公園

If time and energy allowed, I’d then cross over to Tama Lake (多磨湖), next to Seibuen Theme park. After admiring the view of the Okutama mountains, and hopefully Mt Fuji, from Murayama-shita Dam (村山下ダム), I’d walk clockwise around the lake to Higashi-Yamato Green Space (東大和市立狭山緑地) which promised a view of the Tanzawa mountains on its south side. I’d then double-back to Higashi-Yamato Park (東大和公園), making sure to visit the Higashiyamato City Local History Museum (東大和市立郷土博物館) on the way. Next, I’d head to Sayama Park (狭山公園), just below Tama Lake and its dam.

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Finally, if I made good time, I could explore the nearby and relatively short Seseragi road (せせらぎの道), and the equally short Megurita Greenway (廻田緑道), after which I’d follow the Yanase river to Kitayama Park (北山公園), a park famous for its flowers, although probably none in this season. This final park in my tour sits opposite Hachikoku-yama park, the forested area divided by the Seibuen line and its yellow train cars. From the bridge at the eastern end of the park, I could walk 15 minutes to Higashi-Murayama station, one stop from Tokorozawa on the Seibu-Shinjuku line. The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon. I was looking forward to revisiting one of the closest nature spots to the center of Tokyo.

In the end, I decided to cut the hike short after visiting the Sayama Hills Flora & Fauna Interaction center, and headed home using the nearby Shimo-yamaguchi station on the Seibu Sayama line, a couple of stops from Tokorozawa. The next week I returned to the same station to pick up where I had left off, after making a second visit to Arahata-Fuji. Once again, I decided to skip the last part of the hike, and so after Sayama Park, I made my way back via Seibuen station on the Seibuen line.

Above is a slideshow showing the wide variety of trails within the many parks surrounding Tama Lake

Steps heading down in Hachikokuyama Ryokuchi Park

Totoro Forest #2 in Hatomine Park

Arahata-Fuji and its 10 stations

Leaving Arahata Citizen’s Forest

Re-entering Arahata Citizen’s Forest the Following Week

View North from the Top of Arahata-Fuji

Weeping Plum Blossom Tree on the Way to Tama Lake

Fujimi “Periscope Tower” in Seibuen Park

Murayama-shita Dam on Tama Lake

Few People Walking the Dam…

…on a Cold Winter Day

View East of Higashi-Murayama City & Hachikokuyama Park

View West of the Okutama Mountains

Mt Fuji was in the Clouds but Seibu Dome was visible on the right

Wooden Walkway in Higashiyamato Sayama green space

Observation Plaza in Higashiyamato Sayama green space

Heading to one more viewpoint on the Southwestern Side of the Park

Tanzawa Mountains (left) and Okutama Mountains (right)

Diorama of the Mountains around Tokyo in Higashiyamato City Museum

Unsho-ji Temple on the way to Higashi-Yamato Park

Watch a Video of the Arahata-Fuji Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

This Blog Post Continues a Little Longer…

I wanted to return to Tama Lake to complete my originally planned hike. I finally had an opportunity for a short morning hike on the second Wednesday of April. The cherry blossom season had started later than usual due to unseasonably cold weather at the beginning of the month, and I was hoping to still see some sakura in full bloom, as well as the new green, inside Sayama Park.

I would ride the Laview Limited Express to Tokorozawa, then change to the Seibu Shinjuku line for the one stop ride to Higashi-Murayama, and change again to the Seibuen line for another one stop ride to Seibuen station, the whole trip possible in one hour thanks to short connection times. The weather was supposed to be warm and sunny and so I hoped to get my third view of Fuji of the year.

Seibuen Fujimi “Periscope Tower” Surrounded by Sakura

New Green at the North Side of Sayama Park

View of Mt Fuji from Tama Lake

Murayama-Shita Dam under the Morning Sun

Clear View of the Okutama Mountains (Mt Odake on the left side)

Cherry Blossom Trees in Sayama Park

A Good Spot for Hanami

Wooden Steps Connecting the Dam and the Park

Walking among the Sakura in Sayama Park

Following Seseragi Road in Higashi-Murayama

Observation Deck on Megurita Greenroad

Walking on Sakura Promenade at the End of Megurita Greenroad

Another Good Place for Hanami

Two People Enjoying a Break under a Huge Sakura Tree

Group of Huge Cherry Blossom Trees in Kitayama Park

Kitayama Park in the Early Spring

Pair of Weeping Cherry Blossom Trees in front of Higashi-Murayama Station

Watch a Video of the Final Part of the Arahata-Fuji Hike

See a Slideshow of some more Pictures of the Hike

Mt Raiden (418m), Tokigawa Town, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, January 18, 2025

I was looking for a short, low-altitude, and relatively easy hike near Tokyo, with some good views, as well as a hot spring bath at the end, to take full advantage of the clear skies of the cold winter days. Poring over my map, I spotted a peak in the Tokigawa area, overlooked up to now, but which checked all the boxes. The summit was supposedly in the trees, but the shoulder beneath it was described online as a “Scenic ridge”. As an added bonus, I could check out the Sanba Gorge on the Toki river before heading to the nearby Toki no Yu hot spring.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d rode a Tobu-Tojo express train from Ikebukuro directly to Ogawamachi, and there, hop on a local bus for the short ride to Suzume Dam. After a hot spring bath at the end of the hike, I’d walk a short way to the Seseragi Bus center. There, I’d catch a bus for Musashi-Ranzan station, and then board a Tobu line train for the trip back to Ikebukuro. The weather was supposed to be cold and sunny all day, and I was looking forward to a relaxing hike in the hilly countryside of Oku-Musashi.

Hiking in Oku-Musashi 奥武蔵

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Suzume River and Dam

Trail past the Summit of Mt Raiden

It was another splendid winter day as I rode the express train to Ogawamachi, arriving there around 11am. After a short ride on a diminutive bus filled to capacity, I got off at the Suzume Dam entrance (雀ダム入口) in Hikage, actually a 10-minute walk to the dam itself. Along the way, I passed Hikage Shrine, its “shide” (zigzag-shaped paper streamers) swaying gently in the breeze. At the top of a slope, I reached the parking of a park, descriptively name the Suzume river dam erosion control park (雀川ダム砂防公園). A short climb up a steep staircase brought me to the top of the dam wall.

Sunny Hiking on a Winter Day

Following the Panoramic Ridgeline

Surprisingly, the water behind the dam was half frozen, sparkling white under the morning sun; yellow Japanese Pampas grass (“susuki“) in the foreground completed the scenery. In the far distance beyond the top of the dam, I could see the skyscrapers of Tokyo. I followed the road into the forest, and past a bend, reached a signpost marking the trail entrance on the right, shortly after noon.

View Southeast of Tokigawa Town

View East of Mt Doyama

It was a pleasant climb up a gentle slope through a mixed forest, the warm sunlight filtering through the leafless trees. Less than an hour later, I arrived at the small shrine marking the summit of Mt Raiden (雷電山らいでんやま raiden-yama meaning thunder and lightning). This peak might hold the record for the most summit markers: I counted five different ones. It was completely in the trees, so after a short break, I headed down a trail on the east side.

View South of Mt Yumidate

Trail for Mt Doyama

I felt relieved that the trail was easy to walk and well-maintained, just what I had been hoping for. I saw no other hikers so I was also able to enjoy it in near complete silence in this season, before the return of the birds and insects. After a couple of turns, I reached the scenic ridge, although all I could see were the trees on both sides. Suddenly, at the top of a gentle slope and just before a steep descent, a view opened up on the right side.

Trail past Mt Doyama

Road near the End of the Hike

I was delighted to finally get a view, especially on such a beautiful day. Looking southeast, I could see Tokigawa Town, and beyond, the Kanto plain with the skyscrapers of central Tokyo in the distance. On the south side was Mt Yumidate, and below on the east side, the next part of the ridge. Since it was 1h30, I sat on a tree root at the side of the trail and had lunch with a view. Once done, I set off again, ready to tackle the steep section head.

Sanba Gorge on the Toki River

Looking back at Mt Doyama

This was the trickiest section of the hike, dead leaves making it especially slippery. I made good use of the attached rope, and once past it, the trail was mostly level. Thirty minutes later, I passed the minor peak of Mt Doyama 堂山 (どうやま 250m), and there, turned left down a pretty trail through green ferns. At 2h30, I exited the forest and reached a road along the Toki river which I followed to the entrance of Sanba Gorge (山波渓谷). I was lucky to catch the last rays of sun on the cascading, rushing water. After exploring the rocky riverbed for a while, I headed to nearby Toki no Yu at. After a relaxing bath, I walked to the bus center where I boarded another diminutive bus for the short ride to Musashi-Renzan station.

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Mt Takara (374m), Mt Hizure (382m), Mt Hachioka (460m), Mine (423m) & Mt Kongo (420m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Sunday, December 29, 2025

For the final outing of 2024, I was looking for a hike close to Tokyo, something straightforward to ensure I could end the year safely. I also wanted to finish at a hot spring, the cold months of winter being the best time to indulge in one of my favourite activities. A few weeks ago, I found out about the Hizure Alps, and I thought it might be the perfect time to explore this up and down route along four minor peaks south of Sagami lake; since the hiking time was just over 3 hours, I could extend it with a round-trip to a 5th peak on the south side.

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Hiking the Hizure Alps 日連アルプス

I would ride the Chuo line to Fujino station, and from there, walk to the trail entrance on the east side of the “Alps”. I would finish at a trail entrance on the west side, where I could catch a bus for Yamanami Onsen. After a hot bath, I could take the bus in the opposite direction, back to Fujino station. I knew that the Chuo line had recently added green cars so I was hoping to use one on the return. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, usual for this time of the year, and I was looking forward to an enjoyable last hike of 2024.

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Hike in the Shade (left) Hiking in the Sun (right)

Late Afternoon sun near Mine (left) and Mt Kongon (right)

It was a beautiful sunny winter day as I stepped off the Chuo line at Fujino station. After getting ready, I made my way down to Hizure Ohashi Bridge. While crossing the Sagami river, I could already see the Hizure Alps on the other side. Although the nearest entrance was right up the road, I turned left past a supermarket, and followed back lanes eastwards till I reached the Hizure Alps Trailhead (日連アルプス登山口) shortly before noon. On the way, I passed a charming little shrine with red banners flapping in the wind.

Sagami River from Hizure Ohashi Bridge

View North on the way to the Trailhead

I patiently followed the trail as it hugged the mountain side instead of climbing right away. Just as it reached the eastern end, it suddenly made a right turn and headed up at a steep angle. After hauling myself up, the trail soon regained a more reasonable angle and was in the sun again. At 1230, I arrived at a picnic table on the summit of Mt Takara (宝山(たからやま takara-yama meaning treasure). Framed between 2 trees on the south side was a view of Mt Jinba. I continued on my way, and soon after, reached another picnic table at the top of Mt Hizure (日連山ひづれやま hizure-yama); it was completely in the trees so I continued without a break.

Walking in the Sun Past Mt Hizure

Mt Omuro (left) & the Doshi Mountains (right) on the way to Mt Hachioka

The trail was mostly level with some slight ups and downs, mostly in the sun thanks to the bare trees, and mostly free of people thanks to the Japanese year-end holidays. At 1pm, I reached a third bench at a fork in the trail. I went left, leaving the Alps momentarily to head along a southern spur. This change of direction also exposed me to strong winds blowing from the west. I soon arrived at an electric pylon with an open space on the west side. I gazed at the pyramidal summit of Mt Omuro for a short while before being chased away by the wind. After a short slippery climb over dead leaves, I reached the top of Mt Hachioka (鉢岡山はちおかやま hachioka-yama), one of the 15 famous mountains of Fujino town, and also the site of a TV antenna. Despite the lack of view, it was sunny and quiet, so I settled down on a log for a lunch break. Once done, I retraced my steps to the Alps.

Windy Section of the Trail on the Way to Mt Hachioka

Viewpoint at the Top of Mine

The next section was probably the nicest part of the entire hike, heading southwest into the afternoon winter sun, the surrounding vegetation reflecting its soft light. It was only 2pm, but I seemed to be the last person left on the mountain. At one point, I had a view on the south side of Mt Sekiro and Mt Hachioka, side by side. A little before 2h30, I turned right at another fork, this time following a spur northwards, and a few minutes later, arrived at the top of Mine (峯みね). I had a stunning view of Uenohara and the surrounding mountains on the west side: from left to right, I could see Mt Ogi, Mt Gangaharasuri, Mt Gongen, Mt Mito and Mt Jimba.

Mt Ogi (right), Mt Gangaharasuri (center) & Mt Gongen (right) from Mine

Mt Gongen (left), Mt Mito (center) & Mt Jinba (right) from Mine

I took my time taking in the view, trying to spot the smaller peaks I had hiked in the area such as Mt Yae, Mt Furo and Mt Yogai. The wind had pushed in some clouds from the west, testing my patience as various areas alternated between sun and shade. Once satisfied, I left my pack and trotted further down the ridge to the nearby Mt Yasaka (八坂山やさかやま 420m), in the forest and thus less famous. After collecting my pack, I returned to the junction and continued to the final peak of the day only a short distance away. Mt Kongo (金剛山こんごうざん kongo-zan), named after a Buddhist term meaning “something indestructible”, was the site of a small shrine surrounded by cedars.

View of the Uenohara Area from the the Top of Mine

Heading to Mt Kongo

A couple of picnic tables in the shade made it seem like the ideal place for a break on a warm day. However, it was already past 3pm, so I started down a steep path on the south side. No rain for the past few weeks meant the trail was dusty and slippery and I made ample use of the attached rope to keep my balance. Half an hour later, I popped onto a road at the Hizure Alps Entrance (日連アルプス入口) and a few minutes later, caught a bus for Yamanami Onsen. After a quick but restorative hot bath, I hopped back on the bus for the short ride to Fujino station. There I boarded the Chuo line green car for the first time (free of charge till the Spring) for the one hour ride back to Shinjuku.