Tag: Mt Fuji View

Mt Jinba (854m) & Mt Arashi (406m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, February 24, 2024

I wanted to hike a section of the Tokai Nature Trail close to Tokyo which I hadn’t done before. The trail started a short bus ride from Sagamihara Station and ended near a bus stop on the same line, as well as a hot spring. The hike was on the short side, so I decided to tag on a mountain I had climbed nearly ten years ago; looking at my map, I saw I could redo it via a different set of trails. I would take the shortest route up from Wada, a short bus ride from Fujino station on the Chuo line, and walk down to Sagamihara station, passing a couple of minor summits on the way.

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

Hiking in the Takao-Jinba Natural Park 都立高尾陣場自然公園

The whole area is a popular hiking spot with well-maintained trails, so although it had snowed the previous day, I was confident it would be easy to walk; I also knew from my previous visit that the summit had a spectacular view of Mt Fuji. The weather was supposed to be sunny, with temperatures slightly above freezing. I was looking forward to a rare winter hike with a Fuji view from the highest point and a hot spring bath at the end.

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Number 2 Wada Ridge Route without (left) and with Snow (right)

Walking the Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (left) & the Kanto Fureai no Michi (right)

Before (left) and after (right) the summit of Ya-no-Ne

Just past Ohira Hut (left) & Just before Yose Shrine (right)

Heading Up (left) and Down Mt Arashi (right)

I could see patches of blue sky as I rode the almost full bus from Fujino station around 9am. Most people got off at the main trail entrance, and surprisingly, I was the only person heading up the Number 2 Wada Ridge Route (和田第二尾根コース), shortly before 10am. Looking up, I could see the higher slopes, white with snow before disappearing into the clouds. Less than half an hour later, the scenery changed from dull brown to brilliant white. Contrary to the forecast, the sun remained hidden behind a grey cloud cover, allowing the white mantle to last a little longer.

First snow on the Number 2 Wada Ridge Route

Fallen Log near the Junction with the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

I was amazed by the beautiful wintery surroundings, the wet snow clinging to any surface that wasn’t completely vertical. Melting snow falling gently from the tree branches enhanced the effect, its falling noise reminiscent of soft rain. After merging with the Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (一ノ尾尾根コース), I saw more people walking through this winter wonderland. At the top of a staircase, I reached the top of Mt Jinba (陣馬山 じんばさん jinba-san), a Kanto 100-famous mountain, shortly after 11am. The view of Mt Fuji on the south side was hidden by thick clouds, but the frozen landscape was compensation enough.

Walking through a Winter Wonderland

Cloudy View from the Top of Mt Jinba

I was stunned by the nearly completely white trees on the north side of the summit. Beyond their frosty crowns, I could see the Kanto Plain, as well as the eastern edge of the Takao mountain range. After a short break, I set off again, now following the Kanto Fureai no Michi. I was walking on the snow, but since any sloping sections had steps, it always felt perfectly safe. I was glad to be wearing a wide-brim hat, as it protected me from snow falling from the trees. A little after noon, I arrived at Myou Pass (明王峠) where I left the Fureai no Michi, and headed down a series of steps southwards.

White Trees on the North Side of Mt Jinba

In the Background, the Eastern Edge of the Takao Range

I was once again walking on solid ground although snow still covered the trunks and branches of the bare trees; it was like walking through a Christmas displayed created with snow spray. Thirty minutes later, I went left at a fork in the trail. Very soon, I reached the top of Yanone (矢ノ音 633m), completely in the trees. I immediately headed down a precipitous trail on the left side, and soon reached Ohira Hut (大平小屋), actually an open shelter. After a short break, I continued on my way, on a level trail though a forest of tall cedars. On the way, I made a short detour via Mt Mago (孫山 543m). After some descending, I reached a viewpoint on the southeastern side.

A little bit of Autumn in the Wintery Landscape

Snow Coated Trees at Lower Elevations

I enjoyed the view of the majestic bulk of Mt Sekiro rising directly behind Sagami Lake; to its left, was Mt Arashi, today’s next peak, and Sagamihara City. Since it was 2pm, I had a late lunch before setting off again. I soon reached Yose Shrine, at the base of the mountain, and shortly after, Sagamiko Station. There, I hopped on a bus for the short ride to Sagamiko Bridge, a few minutes on foot from the Tokai Nature Trail. After thirty minutes of easy climbing, I arrived at the summit of Mt Arashi (嵐山 あらしやま arashi-yama), meaning Mount Storm. On the west side, I could see Mt Momokura, Mt Ogiyama and Mt Gongen, but the view was rather subdued on this cloudy, wintery day.

Descending from Mt Mago

Viewpoint of Sagami Lake and Mt Sekiro

I was surprised by the up and down nature of the trail beyond the summit. I crossed tiny streams over narrow wooden bridges and scaled thin metal ladders up steep slopes. At 4pm, I crossed a dense and dark bamboo forest, always a fascinating experience for me. Less then half an hour later, I finally reached a road at the end of the trail. After a refreshing hot bath at Ururi Onsen, part of the Sagamiko Resort Pleasure Forest, I caught a bus for the ten-minute ride back to Sagamiko Station, where I boarded the Chuo line for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

View of Mr Arashi (left) and Mt Sekiro (right ) from below Yose Shrine

Bamboo Forest on the Tokai Nature Trail

The hike was longer and harder than I had expected, over 6 hours, so I was glad I could recover at a hot spring at the end. On the other hand, the snowy scenery far exceeded my expectations, thanks to the cloudy cover shielding the sticky snowy tree decorations from the sun and preserving them throughout the day. The snowmelt dripping from the trees was also a new experience for me, as I was walking under sunshine and snowfall at the same time. I encountered many other hikers between Ichi-no-O Ridge and Myou Pass, but very few before and after. I hope to return in the future to explore the other trails crisscrossing the Takao mountain range.

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Mt Sasago-Gangaharasuri (1358m), Otsuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Saturday, January 6, 2024

I wanted to see Mt Fuji on my first hike of the year. I had already climbed this peak, just over 10 years ago. Back then, I had made a long loop, along a hard to follow trail on the south side. I was inspired to redo this mountain thanks to a JR East hiking map showing a shorter loop hike: up the same way, but down a different trail on the east side, and passing by a giant cedar tree. I would take the Chuo limited express to Ostuki, and then continue by bus to the trailhead. I would have to leave relatively early to catch the sole morning bus. For the return, I could catch the only mid-afternoon bus back, or walk downhill to Sasago station, a couple of kilometers away, and a short ride on the local Chuo line to Otsuki. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, meaning Fuji would be clearly visible. The temperatures would be lower than on my December trips, and I hoped it wouldn’t get too cold above 1000 meters. I was looking forward to my first hike and Fuji views of 2024.

Hiking in the Misaka Mountains 御坂山地

Hiking along the Chuo Line 中央線

Descent from the Summit (left) Ridge Trail to Sasago Pass (right)

Walking the Ridge Trail (left) Steps for Sasago Pass (right)

It was still very cold after I got off the bus just after 9am, near the entrance of Sasago tunnel. I found a sunny bench opposite the start of the trail and slowly got ready. A little after 9h30, I set off up a valley, walking in the shade of the cedars. At 10am, I reached an electric pylon out of the trees and with a view southeast towards Mt Tsurugatoya. I continued east, up a ridgeline within a valley enclosed on three sides. At 11am, I spotted the white top of Mt Fuji above the southern side. Shortly after, I was blasted by a biting cold wind blowing over the eastern ridgeline from the Kofu basin. Through the trees, I also had a glimpse of the South Alps, the highest peaks capped in snow. I found a sheltered spot and bundled up. At 1130, I reached an open space near a reflector.

Back into the Sun just below the Electric Pylon

Following the Ridgeline to the Summit

Turning around I had the best view of the day: directly south was the white cone of Mt Fuji, shining in the midday sun; to the southeast, I could see Mt Imakura, the 4th highest peak of the Doshi mountains, as well as Mt Omuro in the Tanzawa mountains. A few more minutes of climbing brought me to the summit of Mt Sasago-Gangaharasuri (笹子雁ヶ腹摺山 ささごがんがはらすりやま sasagogangaharasuriyama), a Yamanashi 100-famous mountain and one of the 12 beautiful views of Mt Fuji (秀麗富嶽十二景). Through the bare trees on the southwest side, I spotted Mt Houou, Mt Kita and Mt Aino, some of the main peaks of the South Alps, before they were engulfed by the clouds.

Last Stretch before the Summit

Checking out the Trail for Mt Komezawa

I was surprised to see traces of snow on the path leading northwards towards Mt Komezawa, in the opposite direction of my hike. I sat down on a bench near the summit marker, facing the sun and Mt Fuji, for an early lunch; about half a kilometer below was the busy Sasago Tunnel. The wind had died down but it was still chilly, and around noon, I set off again, down a steep path, heading west along the narrow ridge separating the Kofu and Otsuki valleys. The path soon became level. After passing a second pylon, I arrived at a fork in the trail, where I took the the “ridge route” on the right. According to my map, it would join up with the “new route” on the left, shortly before Sasago pass.

Following the Ridgeline to Sasago Pass

View Northwest of the Okuchichibu Mountains

I was glad with my choice since I was rewarded by views of Mt Koshu-Takao, Mt Konara, Mt Daibosatsurei, and Mt Okuratakamaru to my right, and glimpses of Mt Fuji to my left. Since I was well on schedule, I took my time peering at the views between the leafless trees. Soon after the two routes merged, I arrived at the third pylon of the day, beyond which the trail headed down a series of steps ending at Sasago Pass (笹子峠) completely in the trees. It was nearly 2pm, and the sun had just dipped behind the ridge rising steeply on the opposite side. I turned left down a shaded valley, and soon reached a road at the end of the old Sasago tunnel (Sasago-zuido 笹子隧道). I followed the road for a short while before getting back on the hiking trail. I soon arrived at Yatate-no-Sugi (矢立の杉), a giant cedar tree, and one of the 100 famous trees of Yamanashi.

Leafless Trees along the Ridge Trail

Heading Down from Sasago Pass

I spent a few minutes gazing at the thousand-year-old tree, nearly 30 meters high, its crown lost from sight, before leaving the viewing platform. After crossing Sasago River on a couple of wooden bridges, the trail widened and hugged the steep mountain side; the valley was bathed in sun again and the rushing river could be heard below on the right. After another short road section, I rejoined the trail again, this time the river on my left side. At 3pm, I reached a gate, beyond which was the main road and the bus stop. It was too early for the bus so I speed walked back to the Sasago station so that I could get the 3h30 train for Otsuki. There, I transferred to the limited express for the comfortable one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Wooden Bridge Crossing over Sasago River

Wide Trail in the Sun above Sasago River

Although the whole hike took six me hours, I did it at a fairly leisurely pace, hoping to match my arrival time with the return bus, but ended up an hour too early. In warmer weather it might be possible to take longer breaks but this is definitely a hike that should be done in the winter months; otherwise the views will be blocked by the leaves. The hike can be extended north or south along the ridgeline, but there are big up and downs on both sides, requiring more time and energy. I saw only one other hiker and he told me he had seen a bear run away, up the steep slope on the other side of Sasago river, barely seconds before I caught up with him. It seems like this bear had been spotted before and may the reason for the absence of other hikers, so a bear bell or other noise-emitting device would also be a good idea.

Watch a Video of the Mt Sasagogangaharasuri Hike

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Nihondaira (307m) & Mt Udo (308m), Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Sunday, December 17, 2023

I wanted to do a hike in Shizuoka, last visited one year ago, to take advantage of the warmer ocean climate and the Mt Fuji winter views. While researching my December 2022 trip to Shimoda, I’d noticed a ropeway on Suruga Bay, opposite the Izu peninsula. Further investigation showed that the top station was located on Nihondaira, a low plateau with several short hiking trails, including a section of the Tokai Nature Trail, the Shizuoka Bypass Route. Looking at my map, I saw I could do a station to station hike long enough to justify the cost of the trip. From the station, I would walk up to the observation deck at the highest point, and after a short roundtrip to a nearby minor peak, return via a different route; although, to my regret, I’d have to skip the ropeway. I would ride the shinkansen to Shizuoka station; a couple of short transfers would get me to Kitsunegasaki station, near the start of the hike. Before heading back to Shizuoka station from the Kusanagi JR station, I could drop by the nearby Kusanagi no Yu for a hot spring bath. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, as well as a little windy. I was looking forward to exploring a new hiking spot and getting some good views of Mt Fuji from a new direction.

Hiking the Tokai Nature Trail 東海自然歩道

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Country lane (left) leading to the Tokai Nature Trail (right)

Walking down from Mt Udo (left) and from Nihondaira (right)

It was a blue-sky day and Mt Fuji was clearly visible as I rode the shinkansen from Tokyo station. After getting off at Kitsune-ga-saki station, it still felt quite cold, so I retreated to a nearby 7/11 to buy some food and water for the day. At 1030, I finally set off along a narrow road, next to a small river, passing several unmanned vegetable stands, a common sight in rural Japan. After walking through some tea fields, I arrived at the entrance of Shimizu Funakoshi Zutsumi Park (清水船越堤公園) just after 11am. After checking out the view of Mt Fuji from inside the park, I continued along the road, and finally reached the Mabase Route (馬走コース on the Tokai Nature Trail just before noon.

Hiking along the Nihondaira Alps

The trail weaved left and right, up and down, along a narrow forested ridge; the treetops swayed in the breeze, occasionally letting through the sunshine. Half an hour later, I reached Mabase Fork and the end of the hiking trail. There, I turned left and walked up a straight road leading to the highest point of the Nihondaira (日本平), also a sightseeing spot with a hotel, souvenirs shops and restaurants. After quickly checking out the eastern observation deck, I made my way to Yume Terrace (夢テラス), one of the most beautifully designed observation towers I’ve ever visited, its wooden deck curving east to west on the north side.

Walking through the Shizuoka Countryside

Walking along the Shizuoka Tokai Nature Trail

I had a stunning view of snowcapped Mt Fuji, rising above Mt Hamaishi. To its right, past Suruga Bay, I could see Mt Ashitaka, Mt Hakone and the Izu peninsula; to its left, beyond Shizuoka city, I could observe the southern edge of the Minami Alps, Mt Daimugen visible in the distance; on the opposite side was Mt Takakusa and the Pacific Ocean, sparkling in the sun. Since it was 1h30, I sat down on a bench for lunch with a view. The wind was blowing quite a bit, so I soon set off for today’s only peak. I walked down a short section of the Shimizu-Nihondaira road, being careful of the traffic, till I reached a trail on the right. After a short climb, the path at times rather faint, I reached the top of Mt Udo (有度山 うどやま udoyama), just one meter higher than the top of the Nihondaira Plateau.

View of Mt Fuji from Yume Terrace at the top of Nihondaira

View of the Izu Peninsula from the top of Mt Udo

I was stunned by the blue colours of the sea below, visible from a gap in the trees on the southeast side. It was shaded light blue in the nearby shallows and dark blue further out in the bay; the tiny waves were topped with white foam on this windy day. On the other side of the bay was the outline of the western coast of Izu Peninsula, an area of scenic beauty relatively close to Tokyo. After a short break, I retraced my steps to Mabase fork. There, I left the Tokai Nature Trail and continued straight, first down some wooden steps through the cedars, then down stones ones alongside a golf course, reaching Kusanagi fork and a paved road at 3pm. I crossed the road, continuing on the hiking path, and at the top of small rise, turned right, following a trail signposted for the Kusanagi Museum (美術館), not featured on any of the map signboards (the official Kusanagi Route continues straight and merges with a paved road after a short while).

Start of the Nihondaira Alps

Looking back at the Nihondaira Plateau

Very soon, I reached a view point of Mt Fuji, its snowy summit poking above a green ridgeline. After a short descent, I found myself walking northwards, along a forested ridge squeezed between two roads. The trail went up and down, a kind of “Nihondaira Alps”, although I couldn’t find any reference to this name. Eventually, I reached the edge of the city, rows of houses crowding in on the east side. I was now walking through a bamboo forest, the densely packed stalks blocking the late afternoon light. I eventually arrived at a fork: left for the museum and right for the University of Shizuoka. I took the right branch, since it was the most direct route to the station, leaving the museum for another day. By 4pm, I was back at the station, and after a refreshing hot bath, I caught a train for Shizuoka station, where I boarded the shinkansen for the one-hour ride back to Tokyo.

Hiking Trail at the Edge of the City

Near the End of the Nihondaira Alps

This hike took about 5 hours, excluding breaks, just the right length for a day hike. The view from the top of Nihondaira was blocked by trees on the southeast side, so it was worth making the roundtrip to Mt Udo to complete the view. The highlight of the hike was the hilly trail between Kusanagi fork and Shizuoka University: it was well-maintained and signposted, with several views of Mt Fuji along the way, even though it doesn’t appear on any maps. I’d like to return one day to explore more trails in the area, and perhaps hike the “Nihondaira Alps” in reverse.

Watch a video of the Nihondaira Hike

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Mt Shakushi (1597m) & Mt Takazasu (1304m), Fujiyoshida City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 26, 2023 [MAP AVAILABLE]

I had climbed this mountain once before but I wanted to redo it via a different route. This would be my first trip to the Fuji Five Lake Region since 2022. I decided to go up via the Asumi ridge; it was mostly in the trees but had a couple of viewpoints on the Fuji side. Looking at my map, I realised that going down via the Japanese Pampas grass (“susuki“) field, as I had done previously, was the best option, as it offered plenty of views of Mt Fuji.

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I would take the Chuo Limited Express to Fujisan station, although the section past Otsuki would be standing room only. From the station, I would ride a taxi to Fudoyu Inn, next to the trail entrance. For the return from Oshino village, I could take a bus or a taxi back to the station, depending on the timing. The weather was supposed to be sunny with average temperatures for the season. I was looking forward to getting some closeup views of Mt Fuji and walking through the “susuki” field.

Hiking in the Doshi Mountains 道志山地

Hiking in the Fuji Five Lake Region 富士五湖

Heading Up the Z Trail (left) and the Asumi Ridge (right)

Looking Down (left) and Up (right) the Steps to Ozasu Pass

The grey skies hanging over Tokyo turned into blue skies as the limited express entered Yamanashi. At Otsuki station, I gave up my comfortable seat and squeezed into the front car, the train packed with tourists. Fortunately, few people got off at Fujisan station, and after a short taxi ride, I arrived at Fudoyu Inn. After getting ready, I set off at 11am, up a trail through a deforested area.

The top of Mt Fuji is only 20 kilometers away

Hiking through the Japanese Pampas Grass Fields

Turning around, I had a superb view of Mt Fuji, my first since April. The sky was streaked with cirrus clouds but Mt Fuji was clearly visible, its distinctive snowcap shining in the morning light. After a couple of switchbacks, I arrived at the entrance of the Z trail (Zコース), a gentle slope through the forest. At 1130, I reached the Ridge Trail (尾根コース), on Asumi-One (明見尾根). Through the bare trees on the north side, I had a glimpse of next valley. After a few minutes of level walking, I reached a viewpoint.

Mt Fuji viewpoint just above Fudoyu Inn

Deforested Area at the Start of the Hike

This was the best view of Mt Fuji of the day: it was framed by green cedars on both sides, with golden “susuki” below and white clouds above. I was resolved to enjoy the Fuji views early in the day; later on, the sun would move behind, leaving just a dark outline. The path suddenly became quite steep, some parts lined with rope for safety. I climbed as quickly as I could, passing many hikers on their way down. Just before 1230, I reached the second viewpoint of the climb.

Autumn Colours on the Lower Hills

Best Fuji View of the Day

I took a few minutes to enjoy the view of Mt Fuji, beyond the “susuki” swaying in the wind. To the west, I could see Kawaguchiko City, and far behind, Mt Warusawa and Mt Akaishi, two prominent peaks in the South Alps. One last effort brought me to the top of Mt Shakushi (杓子山 しゃくしやま shakushi-yama), a Yamanashi 100-famous mountain. To the left of Mt Fuji was Yamanaka lake and to the right was the entire range of the South Alps, from the Shirane-Sanzan to Mt Hijiri; on the north side were the Oku-Chichibu mountains; on the right side, the Kanto plain was still hidden by the clouds. It was just past 1pm so I sat at at a bench for a lunch with a view.

Mt Fuji and the South Alps from the Asumi Ridge

Looking back at Mt Fuji

I was amazed to see a paraglider fly at high altitude, back and forth past the summit of Mt Fuji, at one point passing above my lunch spot. The jump-off point being much lower down on the mountain, it must have caught the perfect updraft. A little after 1h30, I set off again, heading down the steep south side. I soon re-entered the trees, and less than half an hour later, reached Ozasu Pass and the paragliding launch spot. I continued straight ahead, following an up and down trail; near an electric pylon, I passed a viewpoint of Mt Mitsutoge.

The Oku-Chichibu Mountains from the Top of Mt Shakushi

Kawaguchiko City and the South Alps from the Top of Mt Shakushi

I was surprised by how demanding this section was, with short rocky sections lined with rope for safety, even though I had done it once before some years ago. One hour after leaving the top of Mt Shakushi, I arrived at the summit of Mt Takazasu (高座山 たかざすさん takazasu-san). Mt Fuji was visible once again, its north face now mostly in the shade. After a short break, I continued my descent, and very soon I was walking above a huge field of Japanese pampas grass (“susuki“) covering most of the mountain side.

View of Mt Mitsutoge between Ozasu Pass and Mt Takazasu

View of Mt Fuji from the Top of Mt Takazasu

I enjoyed unobstructed views of Mt Fuji for the next half an hour but since it was past 3pm, the low sun made it difficult to get good photos. On the other hand, the “susuki” were at their best, shining golden in the mid-afternoon light. At 3h30, I reached a forest road leading to a paved road at Toriichi Pass. There, I turned left, and after walking downhill for a short while, arrived at Oshino Village. Since it was still early, I decided to walk to nearby Oshino Hakkai. Once there, I was lucky to be able to flag down a passing taxi, allowing me to quickly get back to Fujisan station. After riding the Fujikyuko line to Otsuki, I boarding the limited express for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Susuki field below the Mt Takazasu

Heading towards Toriichi Pass

The entire hike took about 5 hours, roughly the same time as my previous hike along a slightly longer route. I was glad that for the extra expense of taking a taxi to the trailhead, I got several good viewpoints of Mt Fuji along the way. Although I saw a number of people while going up the Asumi ridge, I saw no one during the entire descent, a shame considering the amazing Japanese pampas grass field on the way. Late autumn is definitely the best time to visit this mountain, although I’d love to attempt this hike earlier in the day to get clearer views of Mt Fuji.

Watch a Video of the Mt Shakushi Hike

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Sayama Hills (Highest Point 194m), Tokyo & Saitama Prefectures, Tuesday, May 9, 2023 [Nawatake Forest Road]

I had visited the forested hills around Sayama Lake earlier in the year, but felt like exploring the area some more; I decided to do a morning hike since the parks sit comfortably within the city. I would start from a prominent hill on the north side, then follow a forest road leading to the south side, a shortcut for the perimeter road I followed in January; from there, I would go up and down some hills in the southwest corner of the park; finally, I would leave the hills on the west side, hopefully reaching a bus stop by noon. It was supposed to be fine spring day, sunny with comfortable temperatures; it had rained hard the day before, so the air would be crisp and clear. As before, I would take the local Seibu line to Kotesashi station, and then a bus along the north side of the lake; I could catch the same bus back from the end of the line. I was looking forward to an easy morning hike through a nature park within Tokyo.

Hiking in the Sayama Natural Park 都立狭山自然公園

May 2024 update: the Nawatake Forest Road is closed till at least 2026 due to fallen trees from typhoons in 2023

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Trail Leading to Akasaka

Top of Hira Hill

It was still pleasantly cool when I got off the bus at 9am next to a small shrine shrine under some cedars. After passing Kinsenji Temple, I turned left onto a lane leading up a hill, called Hira Hill (比良の丘 ひらのおか 155m), next to Midori no Mori Nature Park. The flat top area is used for farming, and walking among the fields, it felt like I had suddenly been transported to the countryside. It was now 9h30 so I had breakfast at a table under a huge Japanese Bird Cherry, probably a nice place for a picnic during the sakura season.

Signboard for Totoro’s Forest

Flower Field at the Top of Hira Hill

I was impressed by the serenity of this spot so close to the city. Nearby was a signboard for Totoro’s Forest #13, # 18 and #49. At the moment, there are 57 off these protected parcels of forestland. To the north, I had a view of the city between two wooded areas; on the south side, Sayama lake was hidden behind a forested ridge. This whole area of hills and forests surrounding the lake is known as the Sayama Hills (狭山丘陵), one of the main features of the Musashino Plateau. I soon set off in the direction of the lake, heading down a faint footpath, and entering the forest, past a bridge across a creek.

Cherry Tree on Hira Hill (left) Forest Path to the Perimeter Road (right)

Walking the Nawatake Forest Road

I was stunned by the beauty of the forest, enhanced by the play of sunlight on the light green leaves, as I made my way up a switchback path. A little before 1oam, I reached the top of the ridge and the Sayama Perimeter road. I turned right, and after a few minutes, arrived at the gated entrance of the Nawatake Forest road on the left side. After passing through the door on the side, I made my way along the gravel path, surrounded by thick forest and silence, punctuated by intermittent birdsong.

A Green Corridor Within the City

South Side of the Sayama Perimeter Road

It felt like I had entered a secret section of the park: I saw few other people, birdwatchers with huge cameras, walking under the shade of trees crowding in on each side. Past Nawatake bridge (縄竹橋), where I had glimpse of the lake on the left, the path headed gently uphill for a while; less than half an hour later, I arrived at another gate, where the forest road rejoined the Perimeter Road. I soon ducked down a path on the right side, and at a parking lot, turned right onto a wooden walkway along Akasaka-yato (赤坂谷戸), a marshy area at the bottom of a valley.

Path Leading to Akasaka

Walking in the Akasaka Valley (left) Walking Down the Western Side (right)

It felt like I was walking through a hidden valley, lush vegetation on both sides. After some ups and downs, I arrived at Satoyama-minka (里山民家), a recreated traditional farmhouse from the Edo era, at the edge of the forest. It was past 11am, and I was behind schedule, so I skipped a visit, and headed up a charming valley, filled with paddy fields, and frogs, judging from the croaking noises. After a short climb through forest, I reached the observatory at the top of Mt Rokudo, merging with my previous hike. Heading west, I passed the triangulation point, and soon turned left onto a path down the hill side.

Viewpoint of the Okutama Mountains

End of the Hike at Takane

I arrived at a viewpoint of the Okutama mountains, the outlook partially obscured by trees, but I could still make out Mt Kawanori in the middle. After descending a log staircase, I reached the Takane residential area at the base of the hill, and after walking along a road for a short while, made it to the bus stop at Miyadera-Nishi just before noon. The hike had taken 3 hours as planned, although I had to speed up the pace at the end. I’d definitely like to return in the autumn to explore more trails, as well as visit the Satoyama Farmhouse.

See a video of the Sayama Hills Hike

See the video of the hike on Youtube

Mt Kuro (798m), Kannami Town and Atami City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Sunday, April 9, 2023

I found out about this peak along the Izu skyline while researching my trip to Shimoda, and resolved to climb it on a future hike. Looking at my map, I saw I could traverse from west to east, starting from the side closest to Mishima city, and ending on the Atami side. It seemed like a relatively short hike, but I knew the views would be amazing on a clear weather day. I would take the shinkansen to Atami, then transfer to the Tokaido line for a couple of stops to Kannami station, and there board a Tokai bus to a stop just a short distance on foot from the trailhead. At the end, I could catch a bus back to Atami station from near the trail entrance. The forecast called for blue skies all day, and so I was looking forward to some Mt Fuji views along a relatively easy hike.

Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

View between Kori Pond and the Mt Kuro Viewpoint

Bench with a view close to the Mt Kuro Viewpoint

I enjoyed the view of the the cherry blossoms in full bloom while I waited for the bus at Kannami station. After a short ride, I got off at a stop in the middle of the fields, opposite an “honor system” vegetable stand, and after getting ready, set off along quiet country lanes, a little before 11am. I was in high spirits, excited to explore an area I had never been to before.

View of the Izu Skyline from near the Tanna Fault

Cherry Blossoms in Full Bloom near the Trail Entrance

On my left, I had a view of the green, undulating ridgeline along which ran the Izu skyline and which I would soon be climbing; behind me, was Mt Fuji, still wearing its snowy winter coat. I soon passed through Tanna Fault park (丹那断層公) commemorating a massive earthquake that hit the area nearly 100 years ago, a sobering reminder of nature destructive power.

Green Meadows and White Volcanoes

Sun & New Green (left) Tall Cedars & Shade (right)

Later, I passed some green meadows, reminding me of Switzerland, except for the solitary yaezakura (“double-layered cherry blossom tree”) in the foreground and Mt Fuji in the background. At 11h30, I reached the trail entrance, and after climbing through mixed forest, towering cedars, and finally a bamboo grass tunnel, I reached Kori pond (氷ヶ池), located under a curve of the Izu skyline.

Rocks on the Trail (left) Through the Bamboo Tunnel (right)

First Glimpse of the Summit

I gazed in wonder at the magical view of Mt Fuji rising above the pond. After a short break, I made my way back along the pond side to an intersection passed previously, and then up a steep path, equipped with rope for safety. The bamboo grass was much shorter now, and a panoramic view of the entire area was slowly emerging all around me. I turned around frequently to admire the view of Hakone volcano on the north side.

Mt Fuji and Kori Pond

Trail Alongside Kori Pond

At 1pm, I reached the best view of the day: a single bench just a few minutes away from the Mt Kuro Second Viewpoint (玄岳第二展望台), which I had visited by car in the winter. Directly ahead was Mt Fuji, with Mt Ashitaka on its left, and Mt Hakone on its right; beyond was Suruga bay and the Minami Alps. Looking down, I could see the dark green lowlands stretch all the way to Numazu City.

View of Hakone Volcano above Kori Pond

View of Mt Fuji, Mt Ashitaka (center) and the Numazu Alps (left)

I waited for a break in the procession of roaring motorbikes before quickly crossing the skyline, and then proceeded up the final climb. As I made my way up the grassy, rounded summit, the view gradually opened up on the south side, and I could now see the Numazu Alps and the mountainous interior of Izu peninsula, culminating in Mt Amagi. At 1h30, I reached the flat top of Mt Kuro (玄岳 くろたけ kurotake), a Shizuoka 100 famous mountain.

Final Climb to the Summit

Looking Back at the Izu Skyline and Atami Resort

Curiously, the view was slightly less dramatic from the top, since I no longer had the soaring views looking down at the flat coastal area, nearly 800 meters below. I had the summit entirely to myself, most people preferring the drive the skyline and enjoy the views from the many parking areas along the way. I took a break for lunch, enjoying the picture-perfect view of Mt Fuji and the comfortable early spring weather. At 2pm, I headed down a path on the north side.

Panoramic View of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu Area

Nearly at the Top

As I walked down, I had a bird’s eye view of Atami resort and the coastline of eastern Izu. Here and there, yamazakura (mountain cherry blossom tree) in full bloom dotted the mountain side. The peace and quiet was often interrupted by the revving of engines; I picked up the pace so I could get to the quieter side of the mountain. I tarried a short while in a spot with plenty of asebi (Japanese Andromeda flower; by 2pm, I was following a trail down through mixed forest.

View of Mt Fuji and Hakone

Heading Down to Atami

I savoured the silence and relished in the new green of spring surrounding me in all directions. Just before 3pm, after passing a bamboo forest, I reached a steep downhill road at the edge of a town, which I followed into the valley, till it merged with a wider road with a bus stop. Once back at Atami station, I boarded the shinkansen for the lightening fast 45-minute trip back to Tokyo.

Easy Hiking Through Mixed Forest

Bamboo Forest at the End of the Trail

In December 2022, I drove along the Izu Skyline between Atami and Mt Amagi and was impressed by the many viewpoints on both sides. It was a good season to drive there since the weather was clear and not too cold, and there was relatively little traffic. In the future, I’d like to do it in reverse so that I can better enjoy the views of Mt Fuji.

View of Kori Pond from the Izu Skyline (Dec 2022)

View of Atami from the Izu Skyline (Dec 2022)

I was very satisfied with the hike mainly because of the great views but also because of the near total absence of other hikers. If I were to redo it, I would probably go by car and start from the Mt Kuro viewpoint, since it’s possible to do a loop hike with all the views.

Watch a video of the Mt Kuro Hike

See the View from the Izu Skyline (December 2022)

See a slideshow of other pictures from the Mt Kuro Hike

Mt Yakemori (420m) & Mt Keisoku (430m), Motegi & Shirosato Towns, Tochigi & Ibaraki Prefectures, Saturday, March 11, 2023

I had this hike in mind for a while, but since it could only be reached by car, it was low down on my list. I would follow the route described in my Mountains of Ibaraki guidebook: a loop hike, with short roundtrips to each peak, at opposite ends of the top ridge. These two mountains are situated near Mt Amamaki and Mt Takadate, on the Tochigi and Ibaraki border, halfway between Utsunomiya and Mito cities, their respective capitals. I decided to rent a car from the latter, about an hour’s drive to the parking on the east side. This way I could take the comfortable Hitachi limited express to Mito station and back. Since it was a relatively short hike, I could get an early lunch at a soba restaurant on the way. The weather was once again supposed to be sunny and I was looking forward to getting more views of the low mountains of the southern end of the Abukuma plateau.

Mt Keisoku (south peak) seen on the way to Mt Yakemori

View of the Abukuma Plateau from Mt Keisoku (north peak)

I was relieved that the parking lot was practically empty when I arrived at 1pm; according to the Google Maps, it’s always full in the morning, especially at this time of the year. After getting ready, I set off up a forest road through the cedars. I soon reached a switchback trail leading to Tarumi Pass (弛み峠) on the ridgeline. There, I turned left, heading west, towards today’s first peak.

Start of the hike (left) Below the south peak of Mt Keisoku (right)

Ridge trail leading to Mt Yakemori

As I followed the undulating ridge, I had glimpses through the fir trees of today’s other peak. After navigating the rocky trail round the base of Zazen Rock (座禅岩 meaning “Zen meditation”), I arrived at the summit of Mt Yakemori (焼森山 やけもりさん yakemorisan meaning “burnt forest”) from where I had a view of Mt Takamine to the southwest and the vast Abukuma Plateau stretching into the distance on the north side. At 2h30, after a short break, I headed back to Tarumi Pass.

View of Mt Keisoku from Mt Yakemori

View northwards of the Abukuma Plateau

I followed the sunny trail up a steep slope and soon reached a junction and a bench in the sun. A signpost indicated that this was the south peak of today’s second mountain; apparently Mt Fuji can be seen through the trees, but not today. I turned left, going down for a bit, and then up again through dark forest. At 3pm, I reached the north peak of Mt Keisoku (鶏足山 けいそくさん keisokusan meaning “chicken foot”), a Tochigi 100-famous mountain, and the exact same height as the south peak.

View northeast from Mt Keisoku

The outline of Mt Nantai can be seen on the right side

The summit was free of trees and offered a wide view on the north side. At this late hour, it was also free of people. I could make out the shape of Ibaraki’s Mt Nantai to the northeast, about 30km away. I followed the trail as it continued down the north side, and a few minutes later, I arrived at Tori-iwa (鶏岩 meaning “chicken rock”), where I had a view on the east side. I quickly made my way back to the junction on the south peak, and and continued along the main trail as it curved south and started to head down the mountain.

View to the southeast from Mt Keisoku

View on the way to Niwatori Rock

It was a pleasant descent through the winter forest, bathed in the late afternoon sun. After passing the minor summit of Mt Fuji-ga-hira (富士ヶ平 340m), marked by a small shrine, the trail became rockier and steeper, slowing my pace somewhat. At 4pm, I was back at the now completely deserted parking lot. I managed to get to Mito before sunset, where I boarded the limited express for the 90 minute ride to Tokyo.

View east from Niwatori Rock

Level trail leading to Mt Fuji-ga-Hira

This was another short hike with great views, ideal for the short and clear days of the Japanese winter. I found out afterwards that there’s a spot with many Mitsumata flowers on the north side of the mountain, that were in full bloom around the time of my visit, giving me a reason to return someday in the future.

See a video of the Mt Keisoku hike

Mt Rokudo (194m), Tokyo & Saitama Prefectures, Sunday, January 29, 2023 [Sayama Lake Perimeter Road]

I had cycled the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road over ten years ago, so I thought it was time to revisit the area, but on foot this time; I wanted to explore the network of hiking paths surrounding this circular trail on the Tokyo-Saitama border, and the closest nature park to the capital. Previously, I had taken a train to Seibukyujomae station, near the eastern end of Sayama lake; however, the best trails are located several kilometers away on the western side. I decided to take a train to Kotesashi station on the Seibu line, and then a bus to Kojiya, on the northern side of the lake; I would finish at Hakonegasaki station on the Hachiko line and return via Hanno, from where I could return to Ikebukuro with the Laview Limited express. In between, I didn’t have a precise plan: my main purpose was to see whether I could get a satisfying half day of hiking through the area.

Hiking in the Sayama Natural Park 都立狭山自然公園

5/2024 update:some paths between the Saitama Green Forest Museum with the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road are closed indefinitely due to fallen trees. Please see this page (Japanese only) for more information (closed sections are in red).

Walking between the Tonbo and Nishikubo Marshes

View of Mt Fuji from the Mt Rokudo Park Observatory

It was a short bus ride from the station on a sunny winter day. Before setting off, I dropped by a nearby Ministop, one advantage of hiking within the city. At 12h30, I was walking through a residential neighbourhood, the houses separated by fields: I even saw a fox trot through one of them. I soon arrived at the peaceful Kojiya Hachiman Shrine (糀谷八幡神社) at the edge of Kojiya Marsh 湿地, and the start of the hiking trails.

Kojiya Hachiman Shrine near Kojiya Marsh

Heading towards the Saitama Green Forest Museum

I had a view of the Chichibu mountains, clearly visible on this cold winter day, from behind the shrine. I followed the gently sloping path up to the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road, but almost immediately took a side path leading directly to the Saitama Green Forest Museum (緑の森博物館), a small, free museum at the edge of Dragonfly Marsh (トンボ湿地), also the location of Totoro’s Forest #30.

Walking along the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road

Exploring the paths around the Nishikubo Marsh

I had a view to the north of faraway Mt Akagi, covered in snow, from an open, elevated space behind the museum. I set off again through the marsh and soon arrived at a intersection, where I turned right. This new path led to Nishikubo Marsh (西久保湿地), not much to look at in the middle of winter, but probably a great place to wander around in summer. I made a quick detour along a backstreet to check out the nearby Nishikubo-Kannon Temple.

Intersection at the edge of the Nishikubo Marsh

View towards the mountains of western Tokyo near Nishikubo-Kannon

From there, I had another view of the mountains of western Tokyo, extending northwards; the clouds had started to roll in, making me wonder how much longer the sun would last. I reentered the woods and after a long, gradual climb, arrived once more at the Sayama Perimeter Road (狭山湖外周道路), which I followed for a short while, before turning right onto the ridge trail for Takane (高根). However, I very soon took a left, heading down some steps.

Path for Yato 谷戸 (left) / Staircase for Asama Shrine (right)

Walking through the North Sayama Valley

I followed a narrow path next to a brook through the North Sayama Valley (北狭山谷); it soon turned into a wider path, ending near some ponds at Tanoiri-Yato (田ノ入谷戸). I was now inside Noyamakita-Rokudoyama Park 野山北六道山公園. I left it briefly to follow a road leading to Takaneyama park (高根山公園), from where I walked up the Takaneyama Walking Trail, and upon reaching a road, continued till the Rokudoyama Park Observatory (六道山公園 展望台), on top of Mt Rokudo, a Tokyo 100 famous mountain.

Heading towards the Triangulation Point

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from the Mt Rokudo Park Observatory

From the top, I had a view southwest of Mt Fuji and the Tanzawa mountains, and west of the Okutama mountains. After a short break, I retraced my steps, then took a left over a bridge, arriving at a triangulation point (194m) at 3pm. I took the Oiseyama Walking Trail, past Mt Atago (190m 愛宕山). I soon reached the tiny Asama Shrine (浅間神社), and went down a wooden staircase, ending at another shrine, and the end of the trail. After a 15 minute walk through Mizuho Town, I reached Hakonsegaseki station around 4pm.

Watch a video of the Mt Rokudo Hike

Mt Yadaira (860m), Otsuki and Uenohara Cities, Yamanashi Prefecture, Friday, December 30, 2022 [Map Available]

For my last climb of the year, I wanted to do a station to station hike close to Tokyo, and on local lines, since I was worried about the reduced, year-end bus schedules and holiday travelers. I had walked most of the entire ridge south of the Chuo line, but, earlier in the year, I found a JR East hiking map, reminding me of an unexplored section between Yanagawa and Shiotsu stations. With a total time of around 5 hours and a chance to spot Mt Fuji from the summit, it seemed ideal for the last outing of 2022.

Get a map of the Mt Yadaira Hike

This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer

Find more Japan hiking maps on Avenza

Hiking along the Chuo Line 中央線

The summit of Mt Yadaira, just before Terashita Pass

I arrived under cloudy skies at Yanagawa station around 10am. After getting ready, I set off for the trail entrance, past a bridge on the other side of the Katsura river valley, reaching it at 11am. The sun had come out by now and sunlight was shining through the trees. The path followed a narrow valley along a dried-up riverbed; I was walking in the shade, since the winter sun was now hidden by the steep mountain-sides.

View of the Katsura river

Start of the hiking trail

I found it challenging to walk on the layer of dead leaves that had piled up during the autumn: it was like walking through ankle-deep snow. I was able to follow the trail thanks to the presence of fixed ropes, even on the level sections. My stick, which I mainly use for descending, helped me keep my balance. When the path started to zigzag up the mountain side, I had to be doubly careful not to slip on the dead foliage.

First views through the winter trees

The steepest section of the hike (left) / Approaching the summit (right)

I was relieved to be back on a sunny, leaf-free path, a little after noon, after rounding a bend. Looking north through the bare trees, I had a view of the mountains on the north side of the Chuo valley. I followed the now easy to walk trail southwards, merging with the ridgetop trail at Terashita Pass (寺下峠), half an hour later. On the way, I had a view of the rounded top of today’s peak, the curving ridgeline making it look deceptively close.

View of the Tanzawa mountains

Closeup of Mt Hiru, the highest peak of Tanzawa

I next went up the steepest section of today’s hike, and soon reached the summit of Mt Marutsuzuku (763m 丸ツヅク山(まるつづくやま marutsuzukuyama). It was completely in the trees so I quickly moved on. Very soon, I arrived at a short rocky section, that required some scrambling. Halfway up, I turned around and got a glimpse of the Doshi mountains on the south side. Turning around again, I suddenly spotted a black thing, slowly rising above the bushes.

View of Mt Omuro through the pines

Sun on the ascent (left) / View of Mt Jinnohako (right)

I thought it was a bear, but it turned out to be a camera on a tripod. It belonged to the only person I met today; he had been so quiet, that I had no idea he was nearby. I continued past him, and shortly after, arrived at the summit of Mt Yadaira (矢平山 やだいろやま yadairayama). It was also surrounded by trees, but a little further along the trail, was a clearing with a view of the Tanzawa mountains on the south side. Directly opposite, was Mt Omuro, dark and dramatic against the afternoon sun; Mt Fuji was hiding in the clouds. Since it was 1h30, I sat on a tree stump for a short lunch break.

Looking back at Mt Marutsuzuku

The Kanto mountains from just below Shinochi Pass

I resumed my hike and had an impressive view of a pine covered, solitary peak through a gap in the trees, slightly off the main ridge. The summit could be reached via a short roundtrip, so I decided to check it out quickly. The top of Mt Jin-no-Hako (810m 甚之函山 じんのはこやま jinnohakoyama) was again in the forest, but midway up, I had a view west of today’s summit, with Mt Mitsutoge in the background. Back on the main trail, I soon reached Shin-Ochi Pass 新大地峠), just after 2h30, where I turned left and headed down the mountain.

Descending through the forest

The surrounding landscape was golden in the late afternoon sun

I soon had a stunning view of the Kanto mountains, the triangular summits of Mt Mito and Mt Odake clearly visible below the blue winter sky. I crossed a road and then followed a gently descending trail westwards through the forest. This was the most pleasant part of the hike, the surroundings golden and peaceful in the late afternoon sun, except for the regular tap tap of a solitary woodpecker.

Mt Ogi (left) and Mt Gongen (right) in the late afternoon light

Arriving at the end of the hike

Before the trail curved north, I had one last view of Mt Ogi and Mt Gonzen, framed by two tree trunks, their features highlighted by the late afternoon light. At 4pm, I emerged from the forest, onto a road through a village, just as the last rays of sun vanished from the valley. It took another 15 minutes to reach Shiotsu station, from where it was a one hour ride back to Shinjuku.

See a video of the Mt Yadaira hike

Hitorizawa & Segami Community Woods Hiking (highest point 130m), Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Tuesday, December 27, 2022

This was my 3rd hike in the southern part of Yokohama city. This wooded, hilly area offers some of the best hiking close to Tokyo and is well-suited for short winter walks. I had already hiked through the Yokohama Nature Sanctuary, the Kanazawa Nature Park, as well as the Kanazawa, Segami and Kamariya woods; this time, I wanted to explore the Hitorizawa woods on the northeastern side, and check out some more trails in the Segami woods.

Sunny spot at the start of the Hitorizawa trail

I would take a bus from Yokodai station on the Negishi line to the trailhead; rather than finish at Konandai station on the same line, I could take another bus to Ofuna station on the convenient Shonan-Shinjuku line, less than an hour from Ikebukuro. Although I wouldn’t be summiting any mountains, I could expect a view of Mt Fuji from Isshindo plaza at the mid-way point. I was looking forward to a short relaxing walk through the woods on a sunny winter day.

Nearing the Nabana rest area (left) / Hitorizawa creek (right)

After getting off the bus on a busy road near Hitorizawa Shrine (氷取沢神社), I followed the signposts through some backstreets, reaching the start of the trail Hitorizawa Community woods trail (氷取沢市民の森ルート) at 1pm. At the top of a staircase, I was pleased to discover a wide, level path leading through the forest. I soon reached the first viewpoint of the day at the Nabana rest area (なばな休憩所) above a road and a toll gate. Looking southeast, I could see the low-lying Miura peninsula, and behind, Mt Kano and Mt Nokogiri on the Boso peninsula.

Wooden causeway near Oyato plaza (left) / Climbing made easy (right)

I continued along the path as it descended into a small valley. I soon arrived at a bridge over the Hitorizawa creek (氷取沢小川) and a junction: the path on the left led to Kanazawa zoo, and the one on the right followed the creek back to the bus store. I went straight, and after going through some fields and under a highway bridge spanning the valley, arrived at Oyato Plaza (おおやと広場). I was now walking on wooden causeway along a cool, shaded valley, parallel to the creek.

View of Mt Fuji from Isshindo Plaza

Very soon, I was back on a trail leading up through the woods, but still easy to walk thanks to the use of wooden logs. At 2h30, I left the Hitorizawa woods and arrived at Isshindo Plaza (いっしんどう広場 130m), the highest point of the hike. As on my two previous hikes, Mt Fuji, Hakone and the Tanzawa mountains were clearly visible on the west side. After enjoying a late lunch, I followed the ridge trail (尾根道) south, towards the sun.

View south towards Kamakura

After a few minutes, I turned right, down the hillside, and passed the Bato-no-oka rest area (馬頭の丘休憩所 meaning “horse head”). Although I was at the edge of the city, the rooftops of the houses visible above the trees, I could hear, and sometimes see, squirrels scampering along the trees branches in the late afternoon sun. At 3h30, I reached a junction before the Uma-no-se rest area (馬の背休憩所 meaning “horse back”), and took the smaller branch to the right.

Following the ridge trail (left) / Between the horse’s head and back (right)

I followed the winding trail as it descended into another wooded valley inside the Segami Community Woods (瀬上市民の森), the sun now only reaching the top ridge. At the base of a staircase, I finally arrived at the peaceful Segami pond (瀬上池). From there, I followed a dirt road alongside the Segami creek (瀬上小川) through a habitat for dragonflies and fireflies, although none could be seen in this season. At 4h30, just as the sun was setting, I reached the bus stop for Ofuna station next to the Hongo bus depot, from where it was short train ride back to the city center.

The peaceful Segami lake near the end of the hike

See a short video of the Hitorizawa Creek