Mt Fuji View – Hiking Around Tokyo

Mt Jinba (854m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Sunday, March 1, 2026

I was looking for a short and easy hike to get back in shape after my winter break. I had already been up Mt Jinba three times, the last time being two years ago, but I still hadn’t explored every trail this popular mountain had to offer. This time, I decided to start close to the lowest trail entrance and head up the long and gentle Ichi-no-O ridge route, the main trail up the mountain. After admiring the panoramic view from the summit, including Mt Fuji, I’d descend via the shorter and steeper Tochitani ridge route, near the end of which I’d be able to get a view of the Tanzawa and Doshi Mountains.

Hiking in the Takao-Jinba Natural Park 都立高尾陣場自然公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line to Fujino station. There, I’d board a bus for the short ride to the next stop from the Jinba mountain trail entrance, from where I’d follow an alternate trail to the ridgeline. This would allow me to skip a steep road climb from the main entrance. After completing the descent, I could drop by Jinya Onsen, my first visit to this hot spring. Afterwards, I’d walk 20 minutes along a road to get to a bus stop. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures warm for the season and I was looking forward to the first Spring hike of the year.

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Start of the Hike (left) Alternate Path for the Ridge (right)

Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (left) Sunny and Level Section (right)

I couldn’t spot a cloud in the sky as I rode the Chuo line westwards through the Tokyo suburbs, Mt Fuji clearly visible to the south. The train leaving Shinjuku station had been delayed but fortunately the connecting train at Takao station kindly waited for us, and thus I was able to board the bus from Fujino station as planned. After a ten-minute ride on a half-empty bus, I got off at Kami-sawai stop, a peaceful spot on the Sawai river, here and there plum blossoms in full bloom. I quickly located a sign for the trail entrance on the right side, and a little after 10am, was following a charming path next to a bamboo grove.

Halfway up (left) Log Steps below the Top (right)

Heading down (left) on the Tochitani Ridge Trail (right)

I was surprised to see no one on the trail on this beautiful spring day, probably due to the high levels of cedar pollen in the air. After half an hour of gentle climbing, I turned left onto the wider Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (一ノ尾尾根コース). From this point, I occasionally passed hikers going up and down, but most of the time I had the sunny trail to myself, the mixed forest still leafless in this season. The path alternated between level and climbing sections; turning around in the middle of a slope, I could make out Mt Fuji through the bare trees. An hour and a half after setting off, the trail merged with the the Wada Ridge Route #2 which I had used a couple of years ago.

Trail between Kamisawai and the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

Sunny Section Halfway up the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

I picked up the pace since I was familiar with this section, and soon reached the log steps for the final climb to the summit. Shortly before noon, I was standing on the top of Mt Jinba (陣馬山じんばさん jinba-san) for the fourth time. I was now surrounded by people, including a camera crew interviewing hikers about their lunch choices; I still managed to find a seat at one of the tables for my own, media-free lunch. Some people were in city clothes, and had probably walked up the steps from the nearby Wada Pass parking lot. The horse statue, for which Mt Jinba is famous for, was looking the worse for wear; I hoped it’d get a facelift in the near future.

View West from Mt Jinba towards Mt Shoto

Hazy Fuji from the Top of Mt Jinba

Mt Fuji was half-hidden by the midday haze due to temperatures topping 20°C in the valley below, but I was still able to admire its perfect snowcap in this season. Westwards, I could see the ridgeline extending towards Mt Shoto, looking very inviting on this fine day; to the north, I could see the Okutama mountains, including Mt Odake and Mt Gozen; on the east side, the Kanto Plain extended into the distance, the Tokyo skyscrapers barely visible. At 12:30, I set off for Meiou Pass, but soon turned right onto a smaller path, leaving the crowds behind. I was now following the Tochitani Ridge Route (栃谷尾根コース) down the mountain.

Red-roof Soba Shop near the Top of Mt Jinba

Trail for Meiou Pass

The trail descended steeply through cedars for a while before reaching a level section; beyond, the narrow trail descended more gently but remained inside the tall cedars, keeping me out of the afternoon sun but hiding most views. I passed few people on the way, allowing me to enjoy the solitude of the mountain. At a small Inari shrine, I made a sharp left turn. I soon emerged from the forest above some tea fields and had a wide view of the Tanzawa mountains to the south. I was against the sun, but could distinguish Mt Oyama, Mt Tanzawa, Mt Hiru, Mt Hinokiboramaru and Mt Omuro; in the foreground, I could also see the Doshi mountains, the Hizure Alps and Mt Sekiro. On the left side of the trail was a Kawazu-zakura (河津桜), an early flowering cherry blossom tree, in full bloom, its pink petals swaying in the breeze.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains on the Tochitani Trail

Cherry Blossoms and Tea Fields

I took my time to enjoy the sweeping view before moving on, since it was only 2pm. Below the tea fields, the trail ended at a road which I followed through the Sawai district, the frequent signposts guiding me in the right direction. At a bend in the road, a sign directed me to a path heading directly down the mountainside, a shortcut to the bottom of the valley. Upon reaching another road, I turned right, and after a short while, arrived at Jinya Onsen (陣谷温泉), a friendly hot spring inn allowing day trippers. I enjoyed a leisurely soak in the indoor hinoki bathtub, large windows letting in generous amounts of sunshine.

Mt Omura (left) & the Doshi mountains (center back)

Mt Hiru (left), Mt Hinokiboramaru (center) & Mt Omuro (right)

I was glad I finally had a chance to visit this hidden hot spring close to Tokyo. In the future I hope to hike the last remaining route on Mt Jinba, the Narako Ridge route, and this would allow me to visit Jinya Onsen again. Feeling refreshed, I set off shortly after 3pm on a gently descending road, alongside the Tochitani River. At the Sawai Post office, I turned left onto a main road, and soon arrived at the Jinba Tozanguchi (陣馬登山口) bus stop where it was a short wait for the bus back to Fujino station. After checking out the Fujino Tourist Information Center and collecting some local maps for future hikes, I boarded the Chuo line for the one-hour trip back to Shinjuku station.

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Mt Monomi (135m), Higashi-matsuyama & Hatoyama Cities, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, February 14, 2026

I was looking for some easy hiking near Tokyo, after a series of challenging hikes. I had already walked from Musashi-Ranzan to Takasaka station 10 years ago, almost to the day; back then, I followed the Hiki Hills Traverse Route (比企丘陵縦断コース). Searching online, I noticed that several trails went through the hilly, forested area on the Takasaka side, making it possible to do a loop hike that would also include a viewpoint of the Kanto mountains. Before the hike, I could also drop by the Peace Museum of Saitama and check out the 360° view from its observatory.

Hiking in the Hiki Hills 比企丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tobu Tojo express train from Ikebukuro to Takasaka station, and from there, ride a bus for a short while to a stop near the museum; since it wasn’t a long hike I could leave in the mid-morning. For the return, I’d catch the same bus back, a couple of stops up the line. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon; temperatures were expected to be warm for the season. I was looking forward to a short, relaxing hike at the edge of the Kanto Plain.

Steps for Mt Monomi (left) Walking in Ishizaka Forest (right)

Path for Shoboji Temple (left) Steps for Iwadono Kannon Sando (right)

The sun was still shining as I rode the late morning express train through the Saitama suburbs. I was lucky to catch one of the few trains with forward facing seats. At Takasaka station, I made the quick transfer to the city bus, and a little after noon, I got off at a stop a few meters from “Heiwashiryokan Iriguchi” (平和資料館), “The Peace Museum Entrance”. It was a 5-minute walk up a gently sloping road to the Peace Museum of Saitama, located inside Monomiyama Park (物見山公園). After checking out the small museum with its Showa era dioramas, I rode the elevator up the 147.5m tall silver observatory tower, higher than today’s planned hike.

View of Oku-Musashi from the Peace Museum Observatory

View of the Kanto Plain from Mt Monomi

I was excited to get a wide, unobstructed view of the Kanto mountains, no other tall buildings blocking the view. The midday haze had already set in and I had to rely on the detailed panels to help me identify the various peaks; only the pyramid-shaped Mt Buko was easily recognisable. Apparently Mt Fuji and the mountains of Nikko can also be seen when the conditions are right. After exiting the museum, I made my way through the park, along a paved path and up log steps to a flat open space, the top of Mt Monomi (物見山ものみやま monomiyama), for the second time. Although it’s the highest mountain in the Hiki Hills, a summit marker was nowhere to be found.

Bell Tower at Shoboji

View of Iwadono Kannon Sando from Shoboji

After checking out the view of the Kanto Plain to the east, I headed down the north side and crossed a road, leaving the park behind. I had reached a large parking lot at the edge of the forest. However, before immersing myself in nature, I made my way to the nearby Shoboji Temple (正法寺), also known as Iwadono Kannon (巌殿観音). It was on my return route but I wanted to see it in the sun; thin high-altitude clouds had appeared, announcing an imminent change in weather. At the base of a steep log staircase, I came upon a giant Ginko, completely bare of leaves in this season but certainly an impressive sight in the Autumn.

Entering Ishizaka Forest

Walking the East Ridge Route

My attention was soon caught by a bell tower with a thatch roof, perched at the top of a steep incline with a valley view in the background. After ringing the bell, I admired the view of the “sando“, a main roading leading to the entrance of a temple, running all the way to the base of the hills. I retraced my steps to the parking and followed a sunlit trail through tall pines into Ishizaka Forest (石坂の森). I turned left at a junction onto the East Ridge Route (東の尾根道), heading south along a delightful descending trail; after crossing a stream over a log bridge, I arrived at another parking area. Here, I made a sharp right onto a rougher, climbing path, the Center Ridge route (中央の尾根道), heading back in the opposite direction.

View of the Kanto Plain from Miharashi no Oka

Path leading away from Miharashi no Oka

The path soon leveled and I found myself walking along a ridgeline through mixed forest, mainly consisting of “Konara” and “Kunugi” oaks. After passing the highest point of today’s hike (139m), I reached Miharashi no Oka (見晴らしの丘), an open space with a view on two sides. On the west side, I could see the outline of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains. High-altitude clouds now covered the entire sky, making it hard to make out the fine details, but I could still distinguish the rounded shape of Mt Raiden in the foreground. To the east, I had another view of the featureless Kanto Plain. Since it was 2pm, I sat at a picnic table for a late lunch.

Okuchihibu Mountains from Miharashi no Oka (Photo from Feb 2016)

Mt Yumidate (front left), Mt Buko (right back) & Mt Raiden (right front)

I reflected on how 10 years ago, I had had a much better view on a clearer day. Once finished, I descended a short switchback trail, crossed a road, and headed down a path to Miharashi dai (見晴し台), a slightly less impressive viewpoint on the north side. I then made my way back to the road which I followed for a short while before turning left onto a wide track leading into Shimin no Mori (市民の森). The path was level at first but then descended steeply into a forested valley.

Plum Blossom Tree in Full Bloom

A Hint of Spring in the Hiki Hills

I followed a narrow, twisting past through red pines ending at Iriyama Pond (入山沼). The next section took me along a paved road through a hidden cultivated valley, similar to the Kishi Rice Fields, mostly dormant in the season, but livened up here and there by plum trees in full bloom, a harbinger of Spring. At 3pm, I darted up a slightly overgrown trail on the right side. After a few minutes, I popped out of the thick forest, right next to the bell tower at Shoboji where I had been a couple of hours earlier. I walked over to the top of a long staircase from where I had a bird’s-eye view of the Iwadono Kannon Sando road (巌殿観音参道) extending into the distance.

Shoboji Temple Bell with Iwadono Kannon Sando in the Background

Plum Tree near Shoboji Temple Gate

At the wooden gate at the base of the steps, I passed between two red demons guarding the temple entrance, and then made my way down the “sando“, also dormant in this season, although once again, the occasional plum blossom tree added a little cheer to the surroundings. At one point I spotted something rather unusual, a small playground situated inside the grounds of a shrine. At the end of the “sando“, I turned right onto a larger road, and after a 10-minute walk, arrived at a bus stop. After a short wait, I boarded the bus back to Takasaka station. There, I caught the express train for the one hour ride back to Ikebukuro.

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Mt Yakunimi (319m), Hadano City & Oi Town, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 17, 2026

I’d hiked most of the Soga Hills in January 2018 from Kamioi to Kozu station. Recently I found out about the Fujimizuka Hiking Trail on the Kanagawa Prefecture website. This hike, mainly along country lanes, connects Kamioi with Matsuda station and completes the traverse of the hills. Rather than redo the first part, identical to my 2018 hike, I decided to start from Shibusawa station instead. Looking at my map, I saw I could follow hiking trails and back roads past a mountain with a view of Mt Fuji; a short walk along a prefectural road would then connect me with the main trail. Another view of Fuji awaited me at Fujimizuka near the end of the hike.

Hiking in the Soga Hills 曽我丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu “Fujisan Express” from Shinjuku to Hadano station, and then transfer to the local Odakyu line for the one stop ride to Shibusawa. There, I would catch a local bus and get off at the base of the Shibusawa Hills, a short distance from the trail entrance. The afternoon would be enough for this short hike allowing me to take the mid-morning train. For the return, I’d catch the “Fujisan express” again, but this time from Matsuda station. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, important for getting a good view of Fuji, the temperatures unseasonably warm. I was looking forward to a relaxing hike through the woods and countryside of Kanagawa.

Ascending (left) and Level Trail (right) for Mt Yakunimi

Stairs (left) and Footpath (right) connecting with Mt Takao

It was another blue-sky day, so common in winter in the Tokyo area, as I rode the limited express to Hadano station. Both transfers, first to the local train line and then to the bus line, went quickly and smoothly; shortly after noon, I got off at a stop in the middle of a long slope and headed up a steep road running parallel to the main road, taking me into the Shibusawa Hills (渋沢丘陵). At a bend in the road, I reached a viewpoint of the Tanzawa mountains to the north.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains at the start of the Hike

“Field View point” on the Trail for Mt Zukko

I was surprised by the lack of snow in this season, probably due to the ongoing dry weather. From left to right, I could see Mt Nabewari, Mt To and Mt Oyama, ridges and valleys easily discernable in the clear winter air. I continued up the steep road, now heading south. Since the air was so clear today, I decided to make a detour to a nearby viewpoint along the trail for Mt Zukko. After a short walk on a curving level road between woods and fields, I arrived at “Hatake no Tenbodai” (畑の展望台 meaning “Field Viewpoint”) with a couple of benches and a view of the Western part of the Tanazawa mountain range.

Trail for Mt Yakunimi

Lots of Fallen Trees on the way to Mt Yakunimi

I was pleased to get a view of the remoter peaks of Western Tanzawa, less well-known and harder to access than those of the Eastern half; I could also see the long ridge leading to Mt Mikuni. After a short break, I headed back to the trail for today’s mountain, admiring the first plum blossoms of the season along the way. At 1pm, I turned right, onto a path signposted for the summit; according to the signpost, the road I’d been following up to now also led there, but I preferred to walk on dirt than on asphalt.

Mt Fuji View from the Top of Mt Yakunimi

Mt Fuji and its Winter Snow Cover

I had to walk over, around and even under several fallen tree trunks, adding charm to the otherwise well-maintained path. Beyond a bamboo forest and a series of bamboo steps, I reached the top of Mt Yakunimi (八国見山やくにみやま yakunimi-yama, meaning “8-country view”). Almost completely in the trees, a gap perfectly placed on the west side allowed for a majestic view of snow-covered Fuji, a secret viewing spot of Japan’s iconic volcano. I sat on one of the bamboo benches for lunch with a view. Shortly after 1h30, I resumed my hike, heading down the west side. Very soon I rejoined the road I’d been on earlier; a little further on, it ended at the top of a newly-built concrete staircase with a wide view to the south.

View South above the Cemetery

View West from near the Cemetery

I was delighted with this unexpected view, the trees having been cleared to make way for a cemetery, a wide grassy expanse near the base of the steps, still mostly free of graves. On the west side, I could see Mt Fuji and the outline of the Hakone mountains; to the south, forested hills stretched all the way to the Shonan coast and Sagami Bay. At the bottom of the steps, I walked a short way along a brand new road before turning left up a shorter concrete staircase; this connected with a footpath that soon joined a country lane heading south.

View of Mt Yakunimi with the Tanzawa Mountains behind

Mt Yakunimi (front left), Mt To (center) & Mt Odake (right)

This part of the hike felt quite adventurous: even though I was walking through fields and woods, the lane I was following was unknown to Google Maps and I had to rely entirely on my hiking app to find my way. Turning around I had a good view of Mt Yakunimi with the Tanzawa mountain range rising in the background. As I rounded a bend with a bamboo grove on my left, I came upon Neo Bandit Base, a campsite in the middle of nowhere with no apparent access, almost as if it were a real bandit hideout. At a fork in the road, I followed the right branch to the top of the campsite, taking me to a viewpoint of the forested hills as they extended southwards.

Country Lane Past Mt Takao

Forested Hills extending South to the Coast

I imagined it’d be a nice place to spend the night, enjoying a view from one’s tent, perched high up on the hillside. I followed the road a little further as it curved around the back of the mountain and soon reached the top of Mt Takao (高尾山 307), a minor mountain lacking a summit marker. It was surrounded by forest so I quickly retraced my steps to the main road. I soon found myself walking through farmland again, with a view of the Soga Hills to the south; along the way, I spotted bunches of white and yellow “suisen“, as well as orange “mikan“, adding colour to the winter landscape. After some descending, I reached a busy road, snaking its way along the base of a valley. After about 20 minutes walking on the sidewalk, I reached a signpost for the Fujimzuka Hiking Trail (富士見塚ハイキングコース) on the right side.

View of the Soga Hills past Mt Takao

Walking through Farmland

I was glad to be walking on a peaceful country lane again, taking me through the Yanagi Village Farm (やまぎ村ファーム). Past a white recycling center, out of place at the edge of the fields, I spotted a signpost for a trail leading into the forest on the left. The leaf-covered path climbed and then dipped into a steep, narrow valley. After crossing a stream over a metal bridge, I turned left, following the water upstream. Past a bamboo grove, I suddenly emerged onto a road. As the 4 o’clock chime sounded, buildings and fields lit golden in the setting sun, I made my way through the shinokubo neighbourhood and soon arrived at Jifuku-ji Temple (地福寺) at the bend of a bypass; beyond, the road climbed a long slope.

Walking through Forest near the End of the Hike

Sunset and Mt Fuji above Matsuda City

I hastened to reach the highest point, the gloom increasing fast shortly before sunset. I passed the entrance of Mishima Shrine (三嶋神社), walking under the overhanging branches of Shinokubo’s chinquapin (篠窪の椎 shinokubo no shii). This species of beech was more than 500 years old and one the 100 famous trees of Kanagawa; its lengthy branches were upheld by a metal frame, creating a natural tunnel over the road, but unfortunately too dark for a good picture.

A Natural Tree Tunnel (photo by Anthony Griffin)

Mt Fuji and its Snowcap (photo by Anthony Griffin)

As the sun was setting behind the Hakone mountains, I reached Fujimi-zuka (富士見塚), marked by a stone monument. From the pass, I had one final view of Mt Fuji of the day, now a grey outline with a fiery, orange background. It was another 30-minute walk down a quiet road to the outskirts of Matsuda city; after passing under the Tomei expressway, I caught a bus for Shin-Matsuda station arriving there around 5pm. After a one hour wait, I boarded the Fuji express for the 70-minute comfortable ride back to Shinjuku.

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Yokoyama no Michi, Tama & Kawasaki Cities, Tokyo & Kanagawa Prefectures, Saturday, January 3, 2026 [Highest Point 168m]

I wanted to do another hike inside Tokyo for the first outing of the year. I found out about the Tama Yokohama no Michi Promenade last spring on a “sakura walk” from Tama Center to Karakida station. I felt this would be a good time to explore this historical road following a west-east ridge through the Tama Hills, between the Musashino and Sagamino Plains, north and south respectively. Along the way, I’d pass several viewpoints, as well as historical sites and nature spots.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Keio Sagamihara Line to Minami-Osawa station, and there catch a bus for the short ride to the west side of Nagaike Park. I would finish at Wakabadai station, 4 stops up the line. It had snowed the previous day, and although today’s weather was supposed to be sunny, I’d need to be careful of ice and mud on the trail. I hoped I’d get some good views of the Kanto mountains, as well as Mt Fuji on my first hike of 2026.

Snow Path (left) Bare Tree (right) at the Start of the Hike

Shadows from a Bridge Rail (left) & Path Rail (right)

It was a cold winter day, spurring me on at a fast pace to warm myself up. At 12h30, I reached a viewpoint inside Nagaike Park (長池公園 168m), also the highest point of today’s walk. Looking west, I could see the higher peaks of the Tanzawa and Oku-chichibu mountains, as well as Mt Mito, Mt Gozen and Mt Kumotori, a dusting of snow on each summit; regrettably a building blocked the view of Mt Fuji. I exited the park and followed a paved road hugging its east side. Past a bridge over a 4-lane road, I spotted a footpath between a guardrail and a wooden fence, next to a warehouse belonging to a shipping company.

Western Section of the Yokoyama no Michi

Karakida Section of the Yokoyama no Michi

A thin layer of snow covered the trail, forcing me to proceed cautiously in the uphill sections. I was now at the Western Edge of the Tama Yokoyama no Michi (多摩よこやまの道西端 164m). Beyond a white tower from a water distribution station, I arrived at a viewpoint of the Tsurumi river headwaters on the southwest side, although I could only see forest, as well as an electric power line in the far distance. I soon set off again, following a dirt trail northwest, red “tsubaki” (camelia) occasionally brightening the evergreen vegetation.

Trail alongside the Tokyo Kokusai Golf Course

View South of the Tanzawa Mountains

After some ups and downs, I reached a flat, straight section covered in fallen leaves with glimpses of the Musashino plain on the north side. A little after 1pm, I found myself walking along a tree-lined promenade with buildings on the left and vegetable fields on the right. After crossing a road for Karakida station, I headed up some steps leading to a dirt path between the white tower of a recycling center and a golf course. Beyond a fence leading to a private farm, I had an unexpected view of the Tanzawa mountains.

Descending into a Snowy Shaded Valley

Icy Path on a Cold Day

Gazing at the bucolic scenery and listening to the cheerful birdsong, it was hard to believe I was still inside Tokyo. At a junction, I turned left and carefully made my way down an icy path into a snowy valley deep in the shade. Alternating sidewalks and footpaths, I contoured the northern side of the Tokyo Kokusai Golf Club, the Yokoyama no Michi alway easy to follow thanks to the frequent wooden signposts. After a short climb through a residential neighbourhood, I reached another viewpoint of the Tanzawa mountains on the right side.

View of Mt Fuji & the Tanzawa mountains

Past the Yellow Houses, the Okutama Mountains

I had a clear view of the whole range with the summit of Mt Fuji rising above the ridgeline north of Mt Hiru. I was glad to get my first view of Japan’s highest mountain so early in the year. I descended through a small park, and after crossing a road, headed up a footpath next to a golf driving range. I soon had a view of the Kanto Mountains, enclosing the city on the west side. A little later, I arrived at Ipponsugi Park (一本杉公園), the halfway point of today’s hike. Since it was 3pm, I sat on a bench facing a pond for a late lunch. I soon moved on, and after leaving the park, made my way down a slope ending at Myooji Temple where I turned left onto a dirt trail leading around and above a cemetery.

Trail Past Myooji Temple

Trail between the Nagayama and Kurokawa Areas

Soon, I was walking with a view of the suburbs to the left, and a wall of vegetation to the right. After making my way down some log steps, I arrived at a bridge over a 4-lane road beyond which I turned right, up a steep, curving road leading to another footpath on the left side. I was now walking through dark evergreen forest, the sun quite low above the horizon. Very soon the paved path turned into a dirt path covered in fallen leaves, the golden sunlight reaching me through the bare branches on the right. Just before 4pm, I reached Mikaeri Pass (見返りの峠) confusingly situated at the top of a small hill with a wide view on the west side.

Trail before Mikaeri Pass

Trail near Mt Suwa

This was by far the best viewpoint of the day, also called the Tama Hills Panoramic Hill (多摩丘陵パノラマの丘). From left to right, I could see the Tanazawa, Oku-Chichibu, Okutama and Oku-Musashi mountains, as well as Mt Fuji. The setting sun bathed the surrounding scenery in golden light although I hope I can one day see this return to this spot on a clear morning. I had to pick up my pace if I wanted to finish before dark. A short up and down led me to the top of Mt Suwa (諏訪ヶ岳すわがたけ), a minor summit surrounded by trees. I then followed a wide path westwards through mixed forest.

Kawasaki Section of the Yokoyama no Michi

Red Coloured Trail on the Yokoyama no Michi

From this point, the trail became quite hilly, extending the final part of the hike, the surrounding forest coloured red conveying a sense of urgency. Finally, at 4h30, I arrived at a small park marking the eastern edge of the Yokoyama no Michi (多摩よこやまの道東端 141m), just as the sun was setting behind the Tanzawa mountains. I made a last goodbye to Mt Fuji, and then turned right onto a road heading down into Sagamino valley on the south side; after a 20 minute walk through town, I reached Wakabadai station a little before 5pm. There, I caught the Keio line for the half an hour ride back to Shinjuku station.

End of the Hike at the End of the Day

Golden Fuji from the Eastern End of the Yokoyama no Michi

In the end, it took me fours hour and a half to walk the entire length of the Yokohama no Michi, although it’s possible to shorten it if one starts from Karakida station instead. I was impressed by how I was able to walk nearly continuously along footpaths, a rarity so close to the city center. Frequent signposts meant that it was easy to follow, although many of the signs have faded with time. I lacked time to read all the historical explanations (in Japanese) along the way; that would definitely require a full day hike. I passed many other trails along the way; I’d love to return one day and do some more hikes in the area, mainly southwards into Machida city, and also in a different season.

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Shiroyama no Mori (126m), Inagi & Kawasaki Cities, Tokyo & Kanagawa Prefectures, Sunday & Tuesday, December 28 & 30, 2025

I wanted to do my year-end hike inside Tokyo since it’s the one time of the year local lines are mostly empty, as people head to their hometowns for the year-end holidays. The shorter travel times and lower elevations are also better suited to the short, cold days of winter. Finally, I was keen to continue exploring the network of trails south of the Tama river, often overlooked in my quest to scale new peaks.

Path above (left) and behind (right) Myoken-ji

Steps (left) and Susuki (right) on the Shinrinyoku Route

Looking at my map, I picked a station to station hike easily accessible from the city center. I’d ride the Keio Sagamihara line to Inagi station, just 30 minutes from Shinjuku, and first explore the forested, hilly area above Myoken Temple. I’d then head southwest along the Misawa River valley to Kurokawa station. Next, I’d follow the “Forest Bathing” route southeast to Kurihira station. Finally, I’d continue in the same direction along an unnamed ridge path and finish at Satsukidai station on the Odakyu Tama line, also 30 minutes from Shinjuku.

Walking above Shinkoji Park (left) and Town (right)

Path past Kurihira (left) Bamboo Grove before Satsukidai (right)

The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures cold for the season. Although my planned route didn’t include any summits, I hoped to get views of Tokyo, the Kanto Mountains, as well as snow-capped Mt Fuji. I was looking forward to enjoying various “Satoyama” sceneries along the way.

In the end, I decided to break the hike into two parts: I finished at Kurokawa around 3pm on the 28th, and started again from Wakabadai, one station down the line, around 1pm, on the 30th, each section about 3 hours. The weather on the 30th remained sunny but with temperatures warm for the season.

Entrance to Myoken-ji Temple

View of Central Tokyo from Yushi no Satoyama

It was a crisp, cold winter day as I exited Inagi station around 1130am. A short walk brought me to the entrance of the peaceful Myoken-ji temple (妙見寺). After checking out the bell tower, I headed up a steep flight of stone steps to a shrine gate; beyond, a paved road continued uphill through a bamboo grove ending at Myoken shrine. To its right, I found a path ending at a sunny hilltop called Yushi no Satoyama (ゆうしの里山) from where I had a view to the east.

Path for Shiroyama no Mori

View of Mt Fuji from Shiroyama no Mori

I was glad to get a view of central Tokyo so early in the hike. From left to right, I could see Sunshine 60, the Tocho and the Skytree. After admiring the view, I made my way to a nearby open shelter from where I could also see Mt Haruna and Mt Akagi, far away to the north, the highest peaks covered in snow. I followed the hilltop northeast through Shiroyama no Mori (城山の森 126m meaning “the forest of Shiroyama”), the forest hiding the city buildings from view. Past another open shelter, I reached the highest point of today’s hike, and looking to the right, I suddenly spotted Mt Fuji through the bare trees.

Walking through Shiroyama no Mori

Bamboo Grove below Shiroyama no Mori

I was pleased to finally get a good view of the snowy top of Mt Fuji, its base hidden by the Tanzawa mountains; it was also truly unexpected, as this spot is unmarked on my maps. I turned right at the next junction and followed a dirt track along a bamboo grove to the base of the hill. I already felt quite satisfied with this first hour of hiking, having seen a temple, bamboo groves and views of the skyscrapers of Tokyo and Mt Fuji. After passing through some fields, I was back inside a residential neighbourhood. After going under the railway tracks, I turned left, and was now following a pedestrian path running parallel to the Misawa river.

Walking along the Misawa River

View of Wakabadai from Kurokawa Farm

Walking against the sun, I was dazzled by the golden pampas grass, growing on both sides of the river. At 1h30, I reached the Inagi City Chūō Park (稲城中央公園), and shortly after, settled on a stone bench next to a secluded bamboo grove for a lunch break. At 2pm, I resumed my hike. After thirty minutes of walking through fields and residential areas , I arrived at Kasayato Water Park (上谷戸親水公園) in the shade of Kasayato Bridge, spanning the sky. After observing a spinning “suisha” (waterwheel), I followed narrow quiet back lanes to the Kurokawa Farm Village, on a plateau on the south side of the river.

Immersed in Nature on the Shinrinyoku Route

Bench with a view of Shinkoji Town

Turning around, I had a wide view of the river valley, apartment blocks lining the north ridge. I descended the west side and reached Kurokawa station at 3pm. The next day, starting from Keio Wakabadai station, I soon reached the nearby Odakyu Kurokawa station, beyond which was the Kurokawa Youth Outdoor activity center, as well as the start of the “shinrinyoku” (forest bathing) route, part of the Asao walking trails. I followed the pleasant footpath westwards through tall pampas grass waving under blue skies. At the top of some log steps, I turned left at an junction; I was now heading southeast through the suburbs, inside a narrow finger of vegetation, alongside Shinkoji Park (真光寺公園), although its central lawn and lake were hidden by forest.

Elevated Path beyond the Shinkoji Green Space

Entering the Tsurugawadai Ridge Green Space

I was surprised to be enclosed by nature so close to the city center. This section is also known as the Shinkoji Green Space (真光寺緑地) and continues into the Tsurugawa-dai Ridge Green Space (鶴川尾根緑地). At 2pm, I reached a bench with a view at the edge of the forest. Looking west, I could see the Tanzawa mountains with Mt Fuji behind, although less clear then two days ago; stretching south was Shinkoji Town. I made a brief stop for lunch and then continued on my way. After a short stretch of open views, I entered the forest again. The dirt track soon ended at a paved road where I turned left, leaving the ridge and descending into the Katakira river valley, through another agricultural area. At 3pm, I passed through Odakyu Kurihira station and soon reached another ridge trail through a green space on the north side of the valley.

A Trail with a view of the city

Walking through Furusawa Sakai Forest

I was delighted to be once again walking through nature. At 3h30, I passed the Gorida View Park (五力田見晴公園) with a view of the town on the southwest side. At 4pm, I entered Furusawa Sakai (古沢境), the evergreen forest alternating between shade and golden light. At a junction, I turned right and headed down stone steps, bamboo on my right. I turned left upon reaching a road and passed a red shinto gate leading to Kuromyo Shrine (九郎明神社), its grounds being cleaned for the upcoming new year shrine visit. Soon after, I came upon some fields where I turned right onto a road leading to Satsukidai station, arriving around 4h30, just on time to catch the train for the next station, Shin-Yurigaoka, where I caught the express for the short ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Ogura (955m), Koshu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 23, 2025

I wanted to do another hike in Yamanashi that could be done by car. Looking at my hiking map, I found a mountain north of Yamanashi city, nearly halfway between Mt Daibosatsu and Mt Obina. It was a relatively short loop with a view of the South Alps and Mt Fuji from the observation tower from the summit. Known for its skunk cabbage fields in early spring, I hoped to have the trails mostly to myself in this season.

To get to the hike, I’d drive a share car from Kofu station to a parking lot at Tamamiya Zazenso Park. On the way there, I would stop by Soba Maru, last visited 5 years ago, for a pre-hike lunch. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures average for the season. I was looking forward to a pleasant Autumn hike in the mountains of Yamanashi and hoped to get a glimpse of snow-capped Fuji.

Trail between the Skunk Cabbage Fields and the Ridgeline

Some Colours on the Descent

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the Chuo limited express to Kofu city. It was a pleasant drive to Soba Maru, trees lining the roads resplendent in their Autumn colours. At 1230, it was the middle of the lunch rush hour and it took about an hour before I was seated; while waiting, I was able to admire the view of the mountains of Oku-Chichibu, clearly visible at this time of the year. After a satisfying lunch, I quickly set off again, arriving at Tamamiya Zazenso Park (玉宮ざぜん草公園 ) at 2h30, one hour behind schedule.

View towards Mt Konara (right) from Soba Maru

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains from Soba Maru

I headed up the main trail, ignoring the wooden walkways on each side as the Skunk Cabbage fields lay dormant in this season. The trail headed straight up a valley already in the shade; the path was covered in yellow leaves, Autumn nearly over at this elevation. At 3pm, I reached the sunny ridgeline, where I turned right. After ten minutes of climbing through dark cedars, I reached the wooden observation tower at the top of Mt Ogura (小倉山おぐらやまogura-yama) with a view on the South side.

Trail below the Sunlit Ridgeline

Climbing through Dark Cedars

The sun hung low above the horizon, highlighting the misty valleys between rows of mountains, with the South Alps throning in the background, Mt Kita clearly visible in the center. Leaning over the balcony and looking left, I could see Mt Fuji, although its snowcap wasn’t discernable from this distance and at this time of the day. After this magical view, I retraced my steps and continued straight along the ridge, heading northwards. Under cover of another cedar forest, the trail narrowed and became less distinct.

The Ogura Observation Tower

Misty View of the Yamanashi Mountains

I stepped up the pace, concerned about the late hour. At 4pm, I was once again walking under leafless trees, relieved to be back in the sunlight. At the top of a steep section, interspersed with rocks and lined with roped to indicate the way, I arrived at the minor summit Mt Kamijo (上条山かみじょうやま kamijo-yama 996m). Although it was completely in the trees, the summit marker was golden in the final sun rays of the day. After a short break, I headed down the north side, descending carefully the steep and slippery, leaf-covered slope.

The South Alps with Mt Kita in the Middle

Stream near the End of the Hike

The trail became hard to pick out, forcing me to rely on my GPS and pink strips attached to tree branches. At 4h30, I turned left at Kamijo Pass (上条峠), and headed down a wide valley; here and there, some Autumn leaves remained, adding colour to the early evening darkness. As the valley deepened, the trail gradually became more defined. I soon arrived at a stream where I turned left, now on the last section of the loop. I turned right just before a solar farm, and past Funamiya Shrine (船宮神社), crossed a bridge over the stream. Just beyond was the road, a short walk from the parking which I reached a little after 5pm, just as the last traces of light faded from above the Kofu basin to the south.

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Mt Kuro (1793m) & Mt Hafu (1674m), Fuefuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 16, 2025

I had climbed these mountains in December 2013 from the Kawaguchiko side. I wanted to hike them again but from the Fuefuki side; I also wanted to try out our Japanwilds Kuro-dake Map for Avenza. Finally, I was interested in riding the free shuttle bus between the Ashigawa Agricultural Products Market “Ogossoya” and the Suzuran-gunseichi Parking Lot; it started running last year to reduce traffic due to the nearby Fujiyama Twin Terrace. However, the bus I had used on my previous trip to the area from Isawa Onsen had been discontinued, so I ended up renting a car from Kofu city instead and skipping the shuttle entirely.

Hiking inside the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

From the parking lot, I could take the most direct route up Mt Kuro, and after checking out the view from the nearby observation point, follow the ridge westwards past Mt Hafu and then down to Shindo Pass, also the location of the Fujiyama Twin Terrace. From there, I would again take the most direct route back to the parking. If time allowed, I could drop by Kamiku no Yu onsen on the way back. The weather was supposed to be sunny but near freezing at higher elevations. I hoped to get some good views of Mt Fuji and also catch the last of the Autumn colours.

Get a map of the Mt Kuro hike

This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer

Find more Japan hiking maps on Avenza

Fallen Leaves (left) and Beeches (right) at the Start of the Hike

Trail near the Top (left) Autumn Colours at the End of the Hike (right)

It was a blue sky day as I drove southwards from Kofu station towards the Misaka Mountains (御坂山地). After following a narrow road along the Ashi river valley, I arrived at the Lily of the Valley Flower Colony Parking Lot (すずらん群生地駐車場) just after 11h30. I had to use a smaller parking for hikers since the main one, a little further down the road, was reserved for people using the Twin Terrace Bus. A little after noon, I set off along a faint path starting from the parking lot. After passing a second parking for hikers and crossing a small bridge over a dry riverbed, I arrived at an electric fence beyond which was the start of a well-defined walking path.

Last Rays of Sun near the Summit of Mt Kuro

Trail near Mt Hafu

I found myself walking among tall beeches, their tops already bare of leaves, drawing attention to their white trunks. After recrossing the dry riverbed, I reached a paved road where I turned right and soon passed the gated entrance for the road for Fujiyama Twin Terrace, closed to private cars. A little further, I arrived at a sign for today’s mountain, pointing to a faint trail heading up the left side of the dry riverbed. Here, I was glad I could see my position on the Japanwilds digital map since the trail was at times hard to follow. At 1pm, I turned right onto a ridge, the path merging with a signposted trail leading to the summit.

Sun Rays Filtering through the clouds

View of Kawaguchiko Lake from below Mt Hafu

I made good time up the steep trail allowing me to stay warm in the frigid temperatures. I was above 1000 meters and Autumn was already well over, the white beeches providing most of the scenery; a sign indicating told me I was inside a 100 famous forest of Yamanashi. The trail gradually became less steep, giving me a chance to catch my breath without having to take a break. After a couple of turns, I suddenly came upon the summit of Mt Kuro (黒岳くろだけ kuro-dake meaning “Mt Dark”), the highest peak of the Misaka mountains and a 300 famous mountain of Japan. It was completely in the trees so I dropped my pack and headed for the observation point a few meters to the right, hoping to get a glimpse of Mt Fuji.

First Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Autumn Leaves Catching the Sun from the First Terrace

I was surprised to see that thick clouds had rolled in during my ascent, completely hiding Mt Fuji from view. According to the other hikers, I had missed Japan’s iconic volcano by only a few minutes. Looking down, I still had a view of Kawaguchiko lake extending east to west along the base of the mountains. On the right side, I could see Mt Ou and Mt Setto, two other main peaks of the Misaka mountains. I decided to skip my planned lunch break and immediately head to the next summit, in hope that the clouds would have cleared by then. I retraced by steps and headed down a steep path on the west side; beyond Suzuran Pass (すずらん峠), the path became level and easy to walk.

In the Distance, Mt Shakushi and Mt Mishotai

View of Kawaguchi City and its Lake from the 2nd Terrace

This was the most peaceful and pleasant part of the hike, surrounded by pines masking all sounds and views. I soon passed the summit of Mt Hafu (破風山はふうざん hafu-zan), only noticeable by its summit marker doubling as a signpost. A short way down the west side was another viewpoint of the Fuji Five Lake area. It was past 2pm so I settled down for a late lunch. Although the clouds were still in, sun rays filtering through the gaps created a magical scenery. At 2h30 I set off again, and soon after passing another viewpoint on the left side, I came upon the first terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace at Shindo Pass (新道峠). Opened in July 2021, it was accessible via a short bus ride from the Suzuran Gunseichi parking (a fee is charged each way), and thus was filled with about a dozen sightseers.

Second Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Mt Fuji on a Clear Day (Dec 2013 Photo)

I was stunned by the view of the golden larches covering the foothills, enhanced by the late afternoon sun rays, although Fuji was still stubbornly in the clouds. I made my way to the first terrace, just a few meters away; it was deserted of people, tall pines slightly in the way of the perfect view. It was nearly 3pm, a couple of hours before dark, so I gave up on seeing Japan’s highest mountain and headed down via a paved road, moving to the side once to let the bus pass. Fifteen minutes later, I turned left onto the trail from Suzuran Pass; after descending through dark cedars, I reached a small road the second parking for hikers.

Autumn Leaves near the End of the Hike

A multicolour Japanese Maple Tree

During this part, I finally got a close up view of some beautiful Autumn leaves. A little after 3h30, I arrived back at my car, the last one left in parking area. I drove a short distance to Kamiku-mo-yu, which I reached just before sunset, and after a refreshing hot bath, got back behind the wheel for the return trip to Kofu. Although I experienced a “shy Fuji” today, I was glad I could do a hike in the Fuji area, somewhat of a challenge nowadays due to the high number of overseas visitors. I’d like to return one day and try another hike, but this time starting from Fujiyama Twinterrace.

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Mt Mito (1531m) & Mt Osawa (1524m), Hinohara Village, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, November 8, 2025

I had been up Mt Mito twice before, in 2010 and 2018, but felt it was time to revisit this 300 famous mountain of Japan inside the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park and the Hinohara Tokyo Citizens’ Forest. I wanted to walk though beautiful forest, see some more Autumn colours, as well as explore new trails close to the capital; with luck, I’d also get a view of Mt Fuji from the summit. Looking at my map, I decided to go up the Otaki and Buna Paths, as I did in 2018, but descend via a new route, the Miyama Path; I’d pass another summit on the way, and end up on the Otaki Path again for the last leg back.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Ome line to Hajima and change to the Istukaichi line for the short ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station. From there, I’d board an express bus for the one-hour trip to Tokyo Citizen’s Forest, the end of the line. I decided to catch the mid-morning bus and take the last one of the day back, meaning I’d need to finish well on time today. The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning turning cloudy in the afternoon. I hoped I’d be able to get some views before the sun vanished and that it wouldn’t be too cold on top of one of Tokyo’s highest peaks.

Start of the Hike (left) Above Otaki Waterfall (right)

Stone Steps (left) and Log Steps (right) on the Beech Path

It was a sunny day as I rode the Green Car through the suburbs of Tokyo. After arriving at Musashi-Itsukaichi station just before 11am, I made my way to the head of the line for the Tomin no mori (東民の森) express bus. Thanks to the bus being only half-full, most hikers having taken the early morning one, I had views on the left and right of the Autumn colours along the Akigawa river, as the bus crossed several bridges on the way up the narrow valley.

Ascending (left) and Level Sections (right) along the Beech Path

Takimi Bridge (left) Mito Otaki Waterfall (right)

I was lucky to spot some monkeys along the road, on the opposite side of the ridge from Hossawa falls where I had spotted them on my 2020 hike. There was little traffic in the middle of the day, allowing the bus to arrive ten minutes before schedule, at 1235. I set off almost immediately to get the most out of the sunny weather, passing many people wrapping up their hike. Within a few minutes I was walking along the “Big Waterfall” Path (大滝の路 ootaki-no-michi), also called the Forest Therapy Road (森林セラピーロード shinrin-serapi-rodo), a wide, level trail through mixed forest. Very soon, I reached a viewpoint on the left side.

Start of the Forest Therapy Road

Viewpoint of the Akigawa Valley from the Otaki Path

I was glad to get a view of the Autumn colours under the blue sky, high thin cirrus clouds announcing an imminent weather change. Directly ahead was the long ridge leading to Sengenrei opposite was the ridge for Mt Maruyama; in the far distance, I could make out the 3 mountains of Tokura (戸倉三山). A sign indicated that the elevation was 1078m, meaning I had about 500 meters to climb. I set off again and at 1pm, arrived at Takimi bridge (滝見橋), a wooden suspended bridge, opposite Mito-otaki (三頭大滝), a 30-meter high waterfall.

Beech Path below the Summit

View of Mt Odake (left) from the Observation Deck

The stream of falling water surrounded by vivid Autumn foliage was more impressive than I had remembered. I spent a few minutes enjoying the view before retracing my steps back to the trail, the other end of the bridge leading nowhere. I soon reached a junction where I took the right branch, the start of the Beech Path (プナの路 buna-no-michi); the left branch was the end of the Miyama Path where I hoped to arrive later on. The rocky path, possibly an ancient road, climbed steadily, crossing a stream several times over man-made stone bridges.

Going Down via the Miyama Path

Autumn Colours on the Miyama Path

I was glad to be walking alongside rushing water since it had been nearly 6 months since my last river hike. I kept up the fast pace, and after reaching a couple of benches at Mushikari Pass (ムシカリ峠), turned right up a series of log steps for the final part of the climb. The beeches here were stunning, with their white trunks and orange leaves. I soon passed a sign for 1500 meters, my fast climbing speed protecting me against the near freezing temperatures. Just after 2pm, I arrived at the Mt Mito West Peak (三頭山西峰 1524m). Mt Mito translates as “three tops” since it is formed of 3 separate peaks. Looking south through a gap in the trees, I could see the top crater of Mt Fuji poking above the clouds; looking north, I could see the prominent peak of Mt Takanosu directly ahead; further away and slightly to the left was Mt Kumotori.

Few People on this Adventurous Trail

Trail before Mito Otaki Waterfall

I suddenly felt very cold, the forecasted clouds having filled most of the sky; after bundling up, I headed down a trail on the west side but soon found myself climbing again. In quick succession, I passed the central and highest peak of Mt Mito (三頭山みとうさん mitou-san) and the Mt Mito east peak (三頭山東峰 1527m), both completely in the trees; beyond was an Observation Point, a wooden deck on the north side of the mountain. Here I dropped my backpack for a late lunch with a view. I could see Mt Gozen and Mt Odake, the Autumn leaves in the foreground slightly muted by the overcast sky. At 2h30, feeling chilled, I shouldered my pack, retraced my steps to Mushikari Pass, and continued straight, following the ridgeline southwards, past the Mt Mito Emergency Hut (三頭山避難小屋). At 3pm, I reached the top of Mt Osawa (大沢山おおさわやま oosawa-yama), Mt Fuji now hidden in the clouds but Mt Mishotai and Mt Kuki both clearly visible.

Takimi Bridge and Otaki Falls

Red Japanese Maple on the Forest Therapy Road

I headed downhill through a deep, quiet forest, now following the Mountain path (深山の路 miyama-no-ro), the only person to venture along it at this late hour. After some level ridge walking, I turned left at a junction, leaving the route of my 2010 hike. From this point it was mostly downhill, through mixed forest in resplendent Autumn colours, interspersed with solitary pines. Around 3h30, I passed a rocky clearing with a view of the triangular summit of Mt Mito on the north side. About 30 minutes later, the path crossed a stream, and after following it for a short while, merged with the Otaki Path. Since I was ahead of schedule, I had time to check out the waterfall again and also drop by the Shinrinkan (森林官 Forest Building) before hopping on the bus for Musashi-Istukaichi station. Light traffic allowed the bus to arrive early again, giving me ample time to buy some local sake before boarding the train for the train ride back to Tokyo.

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Mt Rakanji (1058m) & Mt Shirosuna (920m), Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, October 12, 2025

I had been up Mt Rakanji once before when I visited Shosenkyo in October 2013. Back then, I drove from Kofu and used the ropeway, since the main purpose was to explore the spectacular Mitake-Shosenkyo gorge. I was reminded of this interesting peak when I saw it from Mt Shiro last year. Looking at my Mountains of Yamanashi guidebook, I found a relatively easy hike traversing this mountain from north to south, including another peak I had never climbed. As an added bonus, I’d also be able to check out the nearby Kanazakura Shrine.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d take the Chuo line limited express to Kofu, and then ride a bus to Shosenkyo, getting off at the end of the line. From there, I’d follow a paved road on foot for another 30 minutes to get to the trail entrance. For the return, I’d catch the same bus, two stops up the line at the entrance of the gorge. I planned to get off at Yumura Onsen, on the bus route and inside Kofu city, for a quick hot spring bath at Yumura Hotel before catching the train back.

Trail before the the Top of the Ropeway (left) Trail for Mt Rakanji (right)

Stone Steps & Chains on Mt Rakanji (left) View from Mt Shirosuna (right)

The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning and overcast in the afternoon, with temperatures approaching 30° in the Kofu basin, unusually high for the season. I hoped it would feel cooler up the mountains; I also hoped I’d be able to get a glimpse of Mt Fuji and the South Alps before the clouds rolled in; finally, since the Autumn leaves were only due next month, I was counting on smaller crowds than usual. I was looking forward to a relaxing early Autumn hike in a familiar area.

Shinto Gate at the Entrance of Kanazakura Shrine

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains near the Start of the Hike

It was a cloudy morning as I left Tokyo but after entering the Kofu Basin, I was greeted with blue skies and a view of the South Alps, still clear of snow. I arrived at Kofu station just after 10am, and after standing in line waiting for the “Green Line” (グリーンライン), felt lucky to be seated on the crowded bus for the fifty-minute ride to Shosenkyo-Takiue, five minutes on foot from the Shosenkyo ropeway (昇仙峡ロープウェイ). After observing hoverflies busily nectaring at purple Asters and Jorogumo spiders hungrily eating their prey, I set off along the Shosenkyo Line road and away from the various tourist attractions surrounding Sengataki station (仙娥滝駅) at the base of the ropeway. A little before noon, I arrived at a shrine entrance at a bend in the road.

View of Mt Kenashi (left) and the South Alps (right)

Start of the Dirt Road for Mt Rakanji

I was impressed by the bright red Shinto gate (“torii”), surrounded by colourful pennants flapping in the breeze, and also by several towering cedars at the top of a steep flight of steps. A small sign propped at the base of one of them indicated it was part of the 100 trees of historical interest in Yamanashi prefecture, although I couldn’t tell whether it was taller than its neighbours. At the top of another flight of steps, I reached the main building of Kanazakura Shrine (金桜神社), another striking bright red structure. On the opposite side was a gravel path with an enticing sign for a nearby viewpoint of Mt Fuji.

Wooden Walkway on the Way to Mt Rakanji

View of Kurofuji (left) and Mt Kinpu (right)

I couldn’t resist making the short round-trip, especially since the sun was shining and the trail seemed easy to walk. After a 10-minute walk through tall cedars, I arrived at an open space with a view of Mt Fuji framed by pines to the south; looking north, I could make out the broad summit ridge of Mt Kinpu, recognisable by the manmade boulder formation protruding from its highest point. After a short break to enjoy the peaceful surroundings, I retraced my steps to the base of the shrine, and a short distance away, turned right up a road signposted for today’s mountain. After a few bends, I reached the end of the paved road and entered an open space with a view to the northeast.

Forest Road along the Level Ridgetop

Mt Kaya (left), Mt Tachioka (center) and Kurofuji (right)

I was glad to get such a wide view so soon on the hike. On the left side, I could see Kurofuji, its cone-shaped summit not visible from this angle, and on the right side, was Mt Kinpu again, its rocky flanks now visible from this higher elevation. I followed a path for a few minutes westwards and off the main trail, to get a view of the South Alps, hazy blue in the far distance and with golden yellow Japanese Pampas grass (“susuki”) in the foreground. I made my way back through the “susuki” field and turned right up a dirt road. I soon reached a cleared area at the edge of the forest with a view on the north and east sides.

Mt Fuji from near the Panorama-dai Station (2013 photo)

Mt Kinpu and Lake Nosen from the Panorama-dai Viewpoint (2013 photo)

I was pleasantly surprised to get such a wide view on this side of the mountain, which now included Mt Tachioka at the very left and Lake Nosen at the very right. Mt Kinpu rose prominently in the background, the second highest peak in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park and a 100 famous mountain of Japan. Since it was nearly 1h30, I found a suitable tree stump to sit on for a late lunch break. As forecast, the clouds had spread across the sky from the south, providing some welcome shade on a warm Autumn day. I set off again along a winding track sticking close to the level ridgeline, and just before 2pm, exited the forest just below the Panorama-dai Station (パノラマ台駅) of the Shosenkyo ropeway.

Mt Fuji (left) and Mt Kenashi (right) on the way to Mr Rakanji

Mt Shirosuna from Mt Rakanji

I sped through the sightseeing spots around the ropeway and up the trail for today’s first peak, taking care in the rocky sections and making good use of the safety chains; luckily, the thin pre-autumn leaves crowds meant I could make good time, and at 2h30, I reached the summit of Mt Rakanji (羅漢寺山らかんじやま rakanjiyama) also known as Mt Yasaburo (弥三郎岳やさぶろうだけ yasaburoyama), a famous 100 mountain of Yamanashi. I took a moment to enjoy the alpine-like scenery of white smooth rocks and pine trees, as well as the 360° view from the top; Mt Fuji now had a cloud perched on its summit crater in lieu of snow. I then retraced my steps back to the ropeway area and headed down a half-hidden path on the south side.

South View from the Top of Mt Rakanji

Between Mt Fuji and Mt Kenashi lies Kofu City

I was happy to leave the crowds behind although I now found myself walking all alone through forest in the middle of the afternoon. Fortunately the path was easy to follow, and at 3pm, I arrived at the turn-off on the left side for today’s next peak. It took me about ten minutes of climbing to reach an exposed rocky area with a view of the ridge leading to Mt Rakanji. A few more minutes brought me to another such place but with a view southwards of Mt Fuji and the Kofu basin. Finally, after a couple more minutes of walking through the smooth white boulders and gnarly pines, I arrived at the top of Mt Shirosuna (白砂山しろすなやま shirosunayama), aptly translated as white sand mountain.

Trail below the Shosenkyo Panorama-dai Station

Trail for Mt Shirosuna

I was delighted to get a view of the peak I had been standing on a short while ago, allowing me to appreciate its steep and rugged shape. I had now fallen behind schedule so I retraced my steps to the main trail without a break. It took me just 15 minutes to reach another turn-off, this time to the right. A few seconds later, I reached the Mt Shiro (白山 900m) viewpoint, a minor peak with a view of the South Alps, now partially hidden by clouds, as well as the Kurofuji Volcanic group, its highest peaks wrapped in mist. I continued on my way, following the level path through mixed forest as it hugged the mountain side, the late afternoon gloom gradually increasing.

View of the Kofu Basin on the way to Mt Shirosuna

“Alpine” Scenery near the Top of Mt Shirasuna

I wondered if I’d reach the base before sunset, quite early at this time of the year. I picked up the pace and around 4pm I reached a junction: the Furusato Nature Observation Trail (ふるさと自然観察路) which I had been following since the ropeway went right; however, I went down the left trail, leaving the ridgeline. Interestingly the signage around this point was a lot more polished than before even though I was far from any sightseeing spots. I also saw no other hikers during this section, possibly because most people planned to visit next month when the Autumn colours would be at their peak.

White Sand Rock near the Top of Mt Shirasuna

Mt Rakanji from the Top of Mt Shirosuna

I felt relief when I popped out of the dark forest onto a paved road. About a hundred meters further the trail dived back into the forest, but I could now hear the sound of a busy road in the valley below. At 4h30, I passed through a wildlife gate next to a spooky abandoned building, and arrived back on the Shosenkyo Line Road and Nagatoro Bridge (長潭橋), beyond which was the Shosenkyo Entrance bus stop. Including the one-hour Shrine visit the entire hike had taken 5 hours, and could have been extended with a walk up the gorge at the start.

A Level Trail Hugging the Mountain Side

The Kurofuji Volcanic Group from Mt Shiro

Sunset was still half an hour away but the sun had already vanished behind the mountain ridges casting the valley bottoms into premature darkness. It took just twenty-minutes on a mostly empty bus to reach Yumura Onsen; after a refreshing hot bath, I caught a city bus for the ten-minute ride to Kofu station, from where it was a 90-minute comfortable ride on the limited express train back to Tokyo.

Watch a Video of the Hike

See More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Amari (1731) & Mt Okuamari (1843m), Nirasaki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, July 13, 2025

I climbed these two mountains almost 7 years ago. Back then, the weather had been overcast and so I was hoping to get some better views this time. With a starting point above 1500 meters, it seemed like the ideal place to escape the relentless summer heat. Finally, I was betting that the long access via a winding mountain road would thin the holiday crowds. Since it was on the short side, I decided to combine it with a pre-hike soba lunch at Kamikoji and a post-hike hot spring bath at Hakusan Onsen.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express from Shinjuku to Kofu, and then drive a share car to the parking lot near the trail entrance. The weather was supposed to be sunny, turning cloudy in the afternoon; temperatures would be over 30° in the Kofu basin but about 20° in the mountains. I hoped I’d be able to do everything I’d planned for the day and that I’d get a view of Mt Fuji, although my chances were slim according to the When to See Mt Fuji site.

Walkway near the Summit (left) Trail past Mt Amari (right)

Near the End of the Hike (left) Blue Sky at the End of the Day (right)

Thankfully it was a short walk, mostly in the shade, from the Station to the share car. After a one-hour drive, I arrived at Kojiro (上小路) at 1pm, where I enjoyed a delicious zaru-soba with a side of tempura. The onsen for the return was right next to the soba restaurant so it’d be easy to find. At 2pm, I got back behind the wheel, and half an hour later, pulled into the Hirogawara parking lot (広河原駐車場 1643m). I saw few cars meaning I could expect few people on the trail. It felt hot under the sun while I got ready, perhaps another reason for the nearly deserted parking area.

View of the Kofu Basin and Mt Fuji from the Start of the Hike

Trail past the Open Shelter

I felt more comfortable once I started up the trail, tall trees providing welcome shade. Very soon, I arrived at an open shelter, “azumaya“, with a view of the Kofu basin to the north; on the east side was the summit of Mt Fuji poking through the clouds. It was a pleasant surprise since being far away had actually increased my chances of seeing Japan’s most famous mountain. It was already past 3pm so after enjoying the view, I set off again. A short, easy climb up some log steps brought me to a plateau with wooden walkways, a spot famous for its pink Rhododendron (“tsutsuji“) in June. However in mid-July, I found myself walking through green bushes, another reason for the lack of people.

Log Steps leading to the Rhododendron Plateau

Just Green Bushes in this Season

I suddenly felt a cool breeze in this open space. Directly ahead was Mt Houou, a hundred famous mountain, dark clouds appearing from behind and threatening to invade the whole sky. I stepped up the pace, wondering if rain might follow. After another short climb, I arrived at the top of Mt Amari (甘利山あまりやま amari-yama), a 100 famous mountain of Yamanashi, my second time there. I had a wide view of the Kofu Basin surrounded by the Oku-Chichibu mountains. In the foreground was the plateau I had just crossed, neatly divided in two by the walkway. After a short break, I continued my hike. A little descending, brought me to the start of a switchback trail leading up the steep mountain side.

View of the Plateau and its Walkway

Blue Sky on the Trail for Mt Okuamari

As I gained altitude, I often turned around to admire the views to the south, now including the rounded top of Mt Amari, its north side covered in forest, as well as Mt Kushigata. Here and there, I spotted the pale trunk of an Erman birch, “dakekanba“, which mostly grows above 1500 meters. Looking up, I was glad to see mostly blue sky, the thick grey clouds seemingly confined to the nearby South Alps. Just before 4pm, I turned right at in a fork in the trail, and a few minutes later, arrived at the top of Mt Okuamari (奥甘利山おくあまりやま okuamari-yama) for the second time. It was surrounded by trees except on the southeast side where I had a view of Mt Fuji, almost completely hidden by clouds.

The Gentle Outline of Mt Kushigata

Mt Fuji Disappearing behind the Clouds

After observing a ladybug toddle along the top of a log seat, I headed back to the fork: the left branch continues t0 the next peak, Mt Sentoboshi (千頭星山 2138m), also a 100 famous mountain of Japan, about an hour uphill. I had climbed it back in 2015, and had no desire to visit it again, since it was completely in the trees. Thirty minutes later, just before the summit of Mt Amari, I turned left onto an alternative trail back to the parking. I headed down a grassy path, stopping once to observe a daddy long-legs spider sitting upside down on a tree branch and a second time to check out some bright green “old man’s beard” lichen hanging from the branches of a larch. At 5pm, I arrived back at the parking after a satisfying two hour and a half hike.

Looking back at Mt Amari

Trail near the End of the Hike

I was tempted to hang around to enjoy the now cool mountain air and see the night view of the Kofu basin but I felt it would be wiser to head back while there was still daylight. Half an hour later, I reached Hakusan Onsen (白山温泉). After a relaxing bath, I drove back to Kofu where I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Shinjuku. It’d be nice to return one day to see the tsutsuji in full bloom, especially since a seasonal jumbo taxi runs from Nirasaki station to the parking lot. I’d also like to stay in at the Mt Amari Green Lodge (甘利山グリーンロッジ) to see the night view.