David

Mt Himekami (1123m), Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture, Sunday, July 20, 2025

I wanted to do one last hike before my summer break. I decided to head up to Tohoku, northeast Japan, hoping it would be cooler than the Kanto area. I had been wanting to climb this 200 famous mountain since my last visit to Iwate five years ago. It promised 360° views from the summit on a clear day and some beautiful forest on the way up and down. Looking at my map, I saw I could take the most direct route up, and if time allowed, take a slightly longer route on the descent.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tohoku shinkansen to Morioka, and then change to the local Iwate Galaxy Railway for the short ride to Koma station. There, I’d call a taxi to get to the parking near the trailhead. Since the shinkansen was reserved seating only, I purchased an e-ticket for my mobile Suica in advance. The weather was supposed to be sunny with temperatures around 30° at the base and 20° at the top. I was looking forward to the views and hoped the tree shade would keep me cool on the way up.

Cedars at the Start of the Hike (left) Log Steps Halfway up (right)

Rocky Path near the Top (left) Larches at the end of the Hike (right)

After a 2-hour lightning speed trip under mostly sunny skies, I arrived in Morioka just after 11am. It felt quite warm as I waited on the platform for the excitingly named Galaxy Railway (銀河鉄道) train. The ride to Koma station (好摩駅) itself was quite normal except for the enchanting flute theme that announced each station. After a 10-minute wait under the boiling sun for my taxi, and a 20-minute ride through the charming Iwate countryside, I reached the large but mostly empty parking lot near the Ipponsugi-enchi Campground (一本杉園地キャンプ場), a little after noon.

Impressive Clouds above Mt Iwate from Koma Station

Start of the Ipponsugi Trail

After getting ready, I walked up a grassy slope to some benches at the edge of the forest, the start of the Ipponsugi Trail (一本杉コース). Turning around, I had a startling view of Mt Iwate under dark menacing clouds. After passing an intersection with a forest road, I found myself walking along a narrow dirt path between tall cedars at 1230, happy to be in their shade. As the path started to climb gently, I reached a sign for Ipponsugi (一本杉) a solitary giant cedar, a few meters off the trail. After admiring this giant of nature, I continued on my way.

Rocky Section near the Top of the Trail

View of Mt Iwate near the Top of Mt Himekami

I soon arrived at the start of a series of steep log steps, a tough slog on what was turning out to be quite a hot day. I took my first break a little before 1pm at the 5th station (五合目), a level area half way to the top in distance, but only one third in elevation gain. The next section, covered in roots and rocks, was harder and more slippery to walk, and I was grateful when the steps reappeared further along. I spotted the occasional pale white trunks of birches (シラカンバ白樺), a common mountain tree in northern Japan. Half an hour later, I reached another level area at the 7th station (七合目) where I settled on a large rock for the second break of the climb.

Huge Cloud Floating through the Sky

Boulder Hopping Section Close to the Summit

For the first time of the day, I felt a breeze blow through the trees, helping me to cool off before the final summit push. The rocks on the trail became bigger and bigger, forcing me to use my hands to haul myself over the largest ones. I suddenly emerged from the vegetation, blue sky with wisps of white cloud overhead. Standing on a flat rock, I had a wide view of Mt Iwate and Mt Hachimantai to the west. Just beyond, the trail split into two: the left fork went directly to the summit through the forest; however, I choose the panoramic right fork, hopping boulder to boulder, till it merged with the Jonai Trail (城内コース) on the southwest side.

View Northeast from the Top of the Ipponsugi Trail

View of Mt Iwate and Mt Hachimantai from Mt Himekami

It had been a while since I had done such an adventurous trail and I had to watch out for the gaps between the flat slabs of rock. Once I was safely back on a proper trail, it took just a couple of minutes to reach the summit of Mt Himekami (姫神山ひめかみさん himekami-san), meaning “princess god”. The view was stunning in all directions although I could only confidently identify Mt Hayachine to the south. Since it was past 2pm, I found a good rock to sit on for a late lunch with a view.

View South of Wind Turbines and Mt Hayachine (left)

View Southeast from Mt Himekami

I wanted to stay longer to admire the stunning view, as well as enjoy the spectacular clouds floating through the sky, but I had to allow enough time to catch my shinkansen for the return (also reserved). At 3pm, I dived back into the forest, down the Kowasaka Trail (こわ坂コース) on the northwest side. The first section headed down quite steeply, with ropes attached to the side for safety, but fortunately rock-free. I saw perhaps a dozen people on the ascent but passed no one on the descent. I enjoyed the solitude, making just a little noise in case a bear was lurking in the woods.

View East from the Top of Mt Himekami

Last View of Mt Iwate before Heading down

The surrounding forest was just as beautiful on this side, and lower down, I found myself walking through larches, a nice change from the cedars and birches. At 4pm, I reached the trail entrance where I turned left onto a paved road. The final section is one reason people avoid the Kowasaka trail (the other being it is less well-maintained), but it’s only a fifteen-minute walk back to the start of the Ipponsugi trail entrance. Along the way I was startled by a snake on the road; a closer inspection revealed that it was dead, perhaps hit by a car, but it was in perfect condition and extremely lifelike even in death.

Mt Iwate against the Late Afternoon Sun

The Prince God of Mt Himekani?

I was delighted to come upon a tube channeling ice cold water close to the end of the hike. After dousing my face and head several times, I called this morning’s taxi company, asking them to pick me up. I got dropped off at Koma station a little before 5pm, and half an hour later, was at Morioka Station with one hour to spare before my train back to Tokyo. After sampling some local Japanese sake from Kikizakeya, I boarded the shinkansen for the comfortable 2-hour ride back home.

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Mt Amari (1731) & Mt Okuamari (1843m), Nirasaki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, July 13, 2025

I climbed these two mountains almost 7 years ago. Back then, the weather had been overcast and so I was hoping to get some better views this time. With a starting point above 1500 meters, it seemed like the ideal place to escape the relentless summer heat. Finally, I was betting that the long access via a winding mountain road would thin the holiday crowds. Since it was on the short side, I decided to combine it with a pre-hike soba lunch at Kamikoji and a post-hike hot spring bath at Hakusan Onsen.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express from Shinjuku to Kofu, and then drive a share car to the parking lot near the trail entrance. The weather was supposed to be sunny, turning cloudy in the afternoon; temperatures would be over 30° in the Kofu basin but about 20° in the mountains. I hoped I’d be able to do everything I’d planned for the day and that I’d get a view of Mt Fuji, although my chances were slim according to the When to See Mt Fuji site.

Walkway near the Summit (left) Trail past Mt Amari (right)

Near the End of the Hike (left) Blue Sky at the End of the Day (right)

Thankfully it was a short walk, mostly in the shade, from the Station to the share car. After a one-hour drive, I arrived at Kojiro (上小路) at 1pm, where I enjoyed a delicious zaru-soba with a side of tempura. The onsen for the return was right next to the soba restaurant so it’d be easy to find. At 2pm, I got back behind the wheel, and half an hour later, pulled into the Hirogawara parking lot (広河原駐車場 1643m). I saw few cars meaning I could expect few people on the trail. It felt hot under the sun while I got ready, perhaps another reason for the nearly deserted parking area.

View of the Kofu Basin and Mt Fuji from the Start of the Hike

Trail past the Open Shelter

I felt more comfortable once I started up the trail, tall trees providing welcome shade. Very soon, I arrived at an open shelter, “azumaya“, with a view of the Kofu basin to the north; on the east side was the summit of Mt Fuji poking through the clouds. It was a pleasant surprise since being far away had actually increased my chances of seeing Japan’s most famous mountain. It was already past 3pm so after enjoying the view, I set off again. A short, easy climb up some log steps brought me to a plateau with wooden walkways, a spot famous for its pink Rhododendron (“tsutsuji“) in June. However in mid-July, I found myself walking through green bushes, another reason for the lack of people.

Log Steps leading to the Rhododendron Plateau

Just Green Bushes in this Season

I suddenly felt a cool breeze in this open space. Directly ahead was Mt Houou, a hundred famous mountain, dark clouds appearing from behind and threatening to invade the whole sky. I stepped up the pace, wondering if rain might follow. After another short climb, I arrived at the top of Mt Amari (甘利山あまりやま amari-yama), a 100 famous mountain of Yamanashi, my second time there. I had a wide view of the Kofu Basin surrounded by the Oku-Chichibu mountains. In the foreground was the plateau I had just crossed, neatly divided in two by the walkway. After a short break, I continued my hike. A little descending, brought me to the start of a switchback trail leading up the steep mountain side.

View of the Plateau and its Walkway

Blue Sky on the Trail for Mt Okuamari

As I gained altitude, I often turned around to admire the views to the south, now including the rounded top of Mt Amari, its north side covered in forest, as well as Mt Kushigata. Here and there, I spotted the pale trunk of an Erman birch, “dakekanba“, which mostly grows above 1500 meters. Looking up, I was glad to see mostly blue sky, the thick grey clouds seemingly confined to the nearby South Alps. Just before 4pm, I turned right at in a fork in the trail, and a few minutes later, arrived at the top of Mt Okuamari (奥甘利山おくあまりやま okuamari-yama) for the second time. It was surrounded by trees except on the southeast side where I had a view of Mt Fuji, almost completely hidden by clouds.

The Gentle Outline of Mt Kushigata

Mt Fuji Disappearing behind the Clouds

After observing a ladybug toddle along the top of a log seat, I headed back to the fork: the left branch continues t0 the next peak, Mt Sentoboshi (千頭星山 2138m), also a 100 famous mountain of Japan, about an hour uphill. I had climbed it back in 2015, and had no desire to visit it again, since it was completely in the trees. Thirty minutes later, just before the summit of Mt Amari, I turned left onto an alternative trail back to the parking. I headed down a grassy path, stopping once to observe a daddy long-legs spider sitting upside down on a tree branch and a second time to check out some bright green “old man’s beard” lichen hanging from the branches of a larch. At 5pm, I arrived back at the parking after a satisfying two hour and a half hike.

Looking back at Mt Amari

Trail near the End of the Hike

I was tempted to hang around to enjoy the now cool mountain air and see the night view of the Kofu basin but I felt it would be wiser to head back while there was still daylight. Half an hour later, I reached Hakusan Onsen (白山温泉). After a relaxing bath, I drove back to Kofu where I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Shinjuku. It’d be nice to return one day to see the tsutsuji in full bloom, especially since a seasonal jumbo taxi runs from Nirasaki station to the parking lot. I’d also like to stay in at the Mt Amari Green Lodge (甘利山グリーンロッジ) to see the night view.

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Mt Takao (599m), Hachioji City, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, July 5, 2025 [Jataki to Biwa Falls]

I had been to Mt Takao less than a year ago but wanted to return for several reasons. First, the recently introduced “green cars” on the Chuo line, would allow me to ride to Takao station and back in comfort; next, its proximity to the city and public transport meant it was ideal for a late afternoon hike, allowing me to avoid the intense daytime heat in this season; finally, I could wash off the sweat at Gokuraku-yu conveniently located next to Takaosanguchi station.

Hiking in the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park

明治の森高尾国定公園

I decided to go up the Jataki falls trail, the only trail I had yet to walk on the mountain; after a quick visit to the summit via the Suspension Bridge Trail, I had originally planned to descend via the Biwa waterfall trail. However, due to the current restriction (see below), I decided to head down the Katsura Forest trail instead; from the ropeway top station, I’d then follow a connecting trail down to Biwa Falls, allowing me to complete a waterfall to waterfall hike.

As of January 2026, the Inariyama trail is open again. However, it seems the Biwa Falls trail has be kept as a one-way ascending-only trail to prevent accidents and traffic jams due to overcrowding. This restriction is in place all day; trail running (in either direction) is also prohibited. In other words, it’s not possible to hike down this trail for the time being (no end date to the restriction has been given). Multiple signs in Japanese and English have been placed at the bottom and top of the trail, as well as along the other trails. Please take this into account when planning your hike.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line to Takao station; from there I’d catch one of the frequent buses for Kobotoke (小仏) and get off at Jataki-guchi (蛇滝口), a short distance away. For the return, I could ride the Keio line one stop to Takao station and there transfer to the Chuo line. Although the weather was supposed to be quite hot again, I hoped it would start to get cooler after 3pm. I also hoped I could get a glimpse of Mt Fuji from the top, on my third visit in three years.

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Looking back towards Jataki Falls (left) Jataki Trail (right)

Looking back at the Suspension Bridge (left) Suspension Bridge Trail (right)

It still felt way too hot for any outdoor activity after arriving at Takao station just before 2pm. I decided to hang out for a short while at Ichigendo, the small cafe attached to the station. Even with the added delay, I started to have doubts about today’s hike as I walked up the Old Koshu Highway (旧甲州街道), the Ura-Takao bridge (裏高尾橋) providing the only shade from the punishing sun. I reached the trail entrance a little before 3pm; to further delay the start of my hike, I decided to check out the Ura-Takao Stream Path (裏高尾渓流線歩道) along the Kobotoke River.

Ura-Takao Bridge from near the Bus Stop

Walking under the Ura-Takao Bridge

I was surprised to see such a clean river close to the city. At one point, a group of children were noisily playing in the water; nearby a couple of adults were lying in a deeper, narrow section, completely submerged by the cool rushing water. A little further, I reached a bridge where I had a good view of the river itself. As I continued along the trail on the other side, a green-coloured snake slowly slithered away into the bushes. At this point I decided to turn back, and a little after 3pm, I found myself slowly making my way up a paved incline, the start of the 蛇滝線線歩道 (the Jataki trail).

Kobotoke River from the Ura-Takao Stream Path

A popular Spot for Cooling Off in the Summer

Fortunately this section was in the shade and a small brook running parallel to the road also had, I hoped, a cooling effect; here and there tall birches reached upwards, reminding me I was now inside the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park. I soon reached a series of stone steps leading to a small Inari shrine near Jataki Falls (蛇滝 meaning “snake waterfall”). I was unable to spot the falls, most likely hidden by the mountain side and seemingly off limits to hikers. On the other hand, it seemed like a peaceful spot off the beaten trail, lush vegetation crowding in from all sides. Around now, I was starting to feel the effect of the heat so I soon continued on my way, slowly following the switchback trail up the north side of the mountain.

Stone Staircase past Jataki Falls

View South from the Monkey Park

I was relieved when I emerged onto the main ridge near the top station of the ropeway. I went straight to the restrooms to pour some cold water over my head. Feeling better I headed up the Kasumidai Loop and soon arrived at the entrance of the Takao Monkey Park. Although I prefer to see monkeys in the wild, I felt I needed another delay to allow the sun to get closer to the horizon. Inside, I was rewarded with a view south from the observation deck on top of the monkey house, as well as a surprising number of monkeys. After a short walk through the wildflower garden, I resumed my hike, now following the Suspension Bridge Trail. It was past 4pm, and for the first time of the day, the temperature felt bearable, as the sun sunk below the clouds on the horizon.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from the Top of Mt Takao

Walking along the Katsura Forest Trail

So far I had seen few people but this section was surprisingly crowded, probably because of the current trail closures. A little before 5pm, I reached the top of Mt Takao (高尾山たかおさん takao-san) for the tenth time. Clouds had already swallowed up Mt Fuji to the southwest but I still had a view of the Tanzawa mountains, an improvement over my last visit. After a short break, I started to head towards the entrance of the Katsura Forest Trail. Although the sun wouldn’t set for another two hours, it was surprisingly gloomy under the cover of the forest canopy, almost a repeat of my previous experience on this path. I quickened the pace, stopping briefly to observe a hairy caterpillar crawl across the trail. I was relieved again to be back on the Kasumidai loop and without hesitation, darted down a wide path signposted for Biwa Falls.

One of the several Bridges on the Katsura Forest Trail

Wide Path down to Biwa Falls

I was glad this section had better visibility, pieces of sky now visible overhead. The trail turned rocky and forced me to slow my pace. Once or twice I spotted a brief pinpoint of light, possibly fireflies since a stream was nearby. At 6h30, I reached Biwa Falls (琵琶滝), the lit-up red-coloured lanterns an indication of the late hour. Since it was truly getting dark, I completed the final section at top speed, reaching Gokuraku-yu exactly at 7pm. While I was enjoying a hot bath, a tremendous downpour started; towards the end, I had passed a few people heading up in the semi-darkness and wondered if they would be alright. At 7h30, I boarded the train for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Mitake (929m) & Mt Hinode, (902m), Ome City & Hinode Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, June 22, 2025

I had hiked Mt Hinode one year ago but wanted to return for several reasons. First, the recently introduced “green cars” on the Chuo and Ome lines, would make the ride there and back more comfortable; next, the Mitake ropeway would allow me to start hiking from a higher elevation, essential in this season; finally, I could wash off the sweat at Tsuru Tsuru onsen conveniently located near the end of the trail. This time I’d include the summit of Mt Mitake and descend via the shorter Mt Hinode Hiking Trail.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Near the Start (left) Near the End (right) of the Ropeway

To get there, I’d ride the JR Ome line from Shinjuku station to Ome station, and change to the JR Okutama line for the 15-minute ride to Mitake station. There, I’d catch a bus for the short trip to the base of the Mitake Ropeway. For the return, I’d ride the bus from Tsuru Tsuru Onsen to Musashi-Itsukaichi station and take the JR Itsukaichi line to Tachikawa. There, I’d transfer to a “green car” on the JR Chuo line for the thirty-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Bench at Fuji-mine Park (left) Steps up Mt Mitake (left)

The weather was supposed to be sunny but quite hot. I decided to leave late in the morning and start hiking in the early afternoon to avoid the time when the sun is highest in the sky; I’d also reach the onsen in the late afternoon, a good time for a relaxing bath and perhaps an early dinner afterwards. I hoped the high temperatures, as well as the Tokyo prefectural elections held the same day, would reduce the number of people who usually visit this popular Tokyo hiking spot.

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Kanto Plain from Mitake Shrine

Mt Hinode from Mitakesan Station

It was a shock to the system to step out of the air-conditioned train into thirty-something degrees outside Mitake station. Surrounded by the mountains of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park it was hard to believe how hot it was but I hoped the temperature would be more bearable six hundred meters higher up, at the top of the ropeway. The five-minute walk between the bus stop and Takimoto station (滝本駅), the ropeway base station, was particularly tough, a steep paved road directly under the sun.

Riding the Mitake Ropeway

View East from the Top of the Mitake Ropeway

Thankfully few people boarded the ropeway. I got a good spot at the back of the car allowing me to enjoy the view as the ropeway gradually gained altitude. It felt less hot at the top station but I knew that the temperature would still continue to rise. At 2pm, I set off through Fuji-mine Park (富士根園地), a green oasis above the ropeway, mostly deserted on this hot day. Half an hour later, I reached the Mitake Visitor Center (都御岳ビジターセンター) where I examined the exhibits and chatted with the friendly staff, glad to be in a cool space for a short while. After setting off again, now on the Kanto Fureai no Michi, I soon reached the turnoff for the first mountain of the day.

Mt Hinode from the Entrance of Fuji-mine Park

View East from the Entrance of Fuji-mine Park

After making my way up a steep slope and then through a street lined with souvenir shops, I reached a stone “torii” and the first of the several flights of steps leading to the top of this sacred mountain. I questioned the wisdom of going up on the hottest day of the year so far, but it had been 11 years since my last visit and I wanted to refresh my memory of this popular sightseeing spot. At 3pm, I arrived at the red and gold Mitake Shrine (御岳神社), where I had a view of the Okutama mountains on the south side. Slightly behind the main shrine building was the summit marker of Mt Mitake (御岳山みたけさん mitake-san), a Kanto 100 famous mountain. I was so focused on climbing in the heat that I missed the demons carved into the stone steps.

View South from Mitake Shrine

Open Shelter at the Top of Mt Hinode

I was surprised to have the summit to myself as most people seemed to turn back at the shrine. The small auxiliary shrine on this side of the flat summit area seemed to be undergoing some renovation work, blue tarp somewhat spoiling the mystical shrine scenery. It was my third visit, and I had always thought it was completely in the trees, so I was glad to discover that a gap between the cedars allowed for a view of a conical-shaped peak on the west side (possibly Mt Nabewari). I descended back to the junction with the Kanto Fureai no Michi and headed in the direction of Mt Hinode.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from Mt Hinode

View South from Kuromo Rock

I saw very few people during the next section of the hike, although I did count one cat and one domestic goat. At the top of some log steps I emerged from the shade of the forest onto the sunny summit of Mt Hinode (日の出山ひのでやま hinode-yama), my fourth time on this Tokyo 100 famous mountain. The view was better than last year, mostly blue sky in all directions. Since it was past 4pm, I retreated to the benches on the east side, out of the sun at this time of the day, for a late lunch break. By now I was starting to feel the effect of the heat so I soon continued my hike. I made my way down some steep log steps, and then turned left onto the Mt Hinode Hiking Trail (日の出山ハイキングコース), a gently descending path on the south side of the mountain.

Mitake Shrine (photo from 2014)

Mitake Shrine (photo from 2014)

I had the final view of the day from Kuromo Rock (クロモ岩) from where I could see a section of the Shirataki Hiking Trail I had taken last June. After passing the junction with the New Mt Hinode Hiking Trail, which mostly follows a paved road, the trail reentered the forest. After a thirty minute descent in semi-darkness through a dense cedar forest, I was relieved to reach a paved road and be back in the daylight; by now the sun was low enough so that the valley was entirely in the shade. At 5h30, I arrived at Tsuru Tsuru onsen, where I made sure to take a nice cold bath, a necessity after hiking on such a hot day. After a light meal and a cold beer, I boarded the bus waiting outside the hot spring facility for the short trip to the train station.

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Noyamakita-Rokudoyama Park (Highest Point 194m), Higashi-Murayama City and Mizuho Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, June 15, 2025

I’d been wanting to explore more of Tokyo largest park since my last visit a couple of years ago. I especially wanted to visit later in Spring to see the Kishi rice fields after planting; I also wanted to check out the “Satoyama Minka”, a traditional farmhouse; finally, I wanted to get a view from one of the several observation points on the western edge of the park. It would be a short hike which I could extend by making one or two detours along the park’s many footpaths.

Hiking in the Sayama Hills 狭山丘陵

To get there, I’d ride the Laview limited express to Hanno, and then take a local train one stop to Higashi-Hanno. There, I’d transfer to the Hachiko line for just two stops and get off at Hakonegasaki station, where a bus would take me to a stop near the park entrance. For the return, I could walk back to Hakonegasaki and do the same route in reverse. The weather was supposed to be cloudy but dry; I’d have to be careful of the muddy, slippery trails after heavy rain the previous day. I was looking forward to a relaxing hike near the center of Tokyo.

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Start of the hike (left) Trail on Maruyama (right)

Path for Kishi Rice Fields (left) Path for Sakurazawa Pond (right)

I had chosen a roundabout way to get to the start of today’s hike so that I could ride in comfort most of the way; thick clouds during the entire trip made me wonder about the wisdom of going out on such a day. The bus ride to Kishi bus stop was only a few minutes but saved me from walking along the busy Ome-kaido avenue. After a short walk through a residential neighbourhood I arrived at a staircase leading up to Suga Shrine ( 須賀神社) at the edge of Noyamakita-Rokudoyama Park (野山北・六道山公園). Past the shrine was a lane leading to Satoyama-Minka (里山民家), fronted by a small marsh, alive with the sound of croaking frogs.

Hiking Trail along the Rice Fields

The Freshly Planted Kishi Fields

I was amazed by the quick transition from city to nature, all buildings, except the farmhouse with its thatched roof, hidden by the trees. The visit of the interior only took a short time, the rustic atmosphere recreated by the crackling fire in the sunken hearth (“irori”). After quickly walking the path circling the marsh, I headed over to the freshly planted Kish rice fields (岸田んぼ). I made my way up the left side but soon had to head back due to a trail closure. I crossed between two fields to the right side and headed back to the entrance of Maruyama (丸山), a small hill with several hiking trails. I hadn’t had time to explore it on my last visit so I eagerly made my way up the small path into the green forest, the first of my planned detours.

Looking back towards the Satoyama Farmhouse

Walking through Maruyama

I was surprised by the well-maintained trails and relatively new signposts, although since the trail soon reached a dead-end at Yuzuriha Square (ユズリハ広場), a level space with a couple of benches surrounded by forest. I retraced my steps to a junction and followed the ridge north. I was the only person hiking these trails on what was so far a muggy, overcast day but fortunately I had the company of some very musical birds. I had to be careful not to step off the trail as the ankle-hike grass lining it was still wet from last night’s rain. After a short descent, I arrived back at the Kishi rice fields, just before noon. Instead of following the trail up to Mt Rokudo, which I had done before, I decided to cross the fields again and head up the ridge on the left side.

Heading North along Maruyama

Steps for Sakurazawa Pond

Soon after passing a pond with a tortoise swimming in the middle, I turned left and followed the path up a slope till it merged with the Obikiyama walking trail (尾引山遊歩道) where I turned right. I soon left this level ridge trail for some steep steps heading down on the right side, my second detour of the day. I was fascinated by the surrounding forest, tall trees wrapped by a species of vine . Here I finally met the first people of the day, solitary walkers enjoying some time in nature. At 12h30, I reached Sakurazawa Pond (桜沢池) where I was greeted by a new outburst of birdsong.

Path along Sakurazawa Pond

Some Blue Sky near Sakurazawa Pond

After heading up some steps to a wooden observation deck opposite the pond, I turned around and saw patches of blue sky for the first time of the day, giving me hope for the afternoon. I now followed another trail that soon merged with the Obikiyama trail from before. I was intrigued by the old worn-out signposts on this side of the valley, possibly because they were still in the middle of replacing the park signs. A little before 1pm, I arrived at the observation tower on top of Mt Rokudo (六道山 194m), my fourth time there.

Looking down at Sakurazawa Pond

Blue Sky from the Top of the Mt Rokudo Observation Tower

I could barely make out the Okutama and Tanzawa mountains from the top of the tower, Mt Fuji completely hidden behind the clouds. On the other hand, yesterday’s rain had thoroughly cleaned the air of smog, creating a surreal vision of the clouds above, their outline sharp and clear against the ever-expanding blue sky. I soon made my way back down the tower and followed a paved road towards Fujimidai square (富士見台広場), admiring purple and pink azaleas along the way. After reaching the wide grassy area of the square, I was faced with a choice of three trails for the final part of today’s hike.

Heading down to Yuhidai Playground

End of the Hike on the Tennozan Walking Trail

I opted for the middle one, the only one that was an actual hiking path, the Tennozan walking trail (天王山遊歩道); the other two, Daisaka (台坂) and Dainichiyama (大日山), were along paved roads. After passing another Suga Shrine (須賀神社), I followed some log steps down the mountain side; it abruptly ending at a steep embankment ramp, but luckily some steps on the left side, saved me the effort of having to rappel using the fixed rope. I had stumbled into the Yuhidai play equipment square (夕日台遊具広場), a kind of adventure playground, deserted on this warm humid day. Next up was a zip line, followed by a rope bridge, both looking eerily out of place in the middle of the forest.

Observation Square on the Tennozan Walking Trail

View of the Okutama Mountains with Mt Odake on the left

I suddenly emerged into a wide grassy space at the base of the hills. Making my way through the damp tall grass, I rejoined another section of the Tennozan trail but soon turned left up a log staircase ending at an Observation square with a view southwest. Through the mist, I could still make out the outline of Mt Odake and Mt Mitake. It was past 3h30, so I hurried down the road on the left side. I was soon walking among houses, and at 4pm, I was back at the station. While riding the Hachiko line to Hanno, the weather cleared up somewhat, giving me a closeup view of the Okutama mountains on the west side, a fitting end to today’s hike.

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Mt Teppogi (1291m) & Mt Takazasu (1174m), Oyama Town & Yamanakako Village, Shizuoka & Yamanashi Prefectures, Saturday, June 7, 2025

I found out about this mountain in one of my guidebooks. I had hiked Mt Ishiwari and Mt Mikuni, north and south of it respectively, but never the section in-between. Looking at my map, I saw that I could traverse from Myojin Pass in Shizuoka to Yamanaka lake in Yamanashi. For the first part, I’d follow my 2019 hike but I’d skip Mt Mikuni, entirely in the trees, by following a road to Mikuni Pass. From there, I would head north, passing 3 peaks, before heading down into the Fuji Five Lake Area; Once I reached the end of the trail, I’d follow another road and end the hike at Ishiwarinoyu hot spring.

Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

Start of the Hike (left) Road for Mikuni Pass (right)

Trail for Mt Teppogi (left) Trail for Mt Takazasu (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the first “Mt Fuji” limited express from Shinjuku to Suruga-Oyama, and there catch a Fujikyu seasonal bus for Myojin Pass. For the return, Google Maps suggested going through Kawaguchiko, but I knew from past experience that the Fuji excursion limited express trains would be fully booked far in advance. Instead, I decided to use a taxi to get to Asahigaoka where I could catch a bus for Gotemba station and ride the last “Mt Fuji” limited express back to Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to clear in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon, in tune with my early start and early finish plan. I was looking forward to a hike far from Tokyo and hoped I’d get a view of Mt Fuji before it vanished in the clouds.

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View of Hakone from near Myojin Pass

Trail between Myojin Pass and Mt Mikuni

The sun was already high in the sky at 7am as the limited express made its way through Tokyo. After getting off at Suruga-Oyama station at 8am, I hurried to the bus stop but still found myself standing for the 3o-minute ride to the pass, as many people had arrived just before me on the local train. Surprisingly, I had the trail mostly to myself after starting out from Myojin Pass (明神峠 900m) at 9am, since most people first headed to nearby Mt Yubune (I had done the same 6 years ago).

Road leading to Mikuni Pass

View of the Tanzawa Mountains

I soon had a view on Mt Ashitaka and the Hakone mountains through the trees on the left side. It was already quite warm but fortunately most of this section was in the tree shade. At 9h30, I reached a paved road beyond which the trail for Mt Mikuni rose steeply through the forest. A signpost with a small metal figure of Kintaro perched on top told me I was at the halfway point between the Myojin and Mikuni passes. I turned right onto the paved road, now entering Kanagawa prefecture.

Looking ahead at Mt Teppogi

Looking back at Mt Mikuni

Almost immediately, I got a view of the Tanzawa mountains on the right side, my first time to see them from this angle. Further along, the view was lost behind trees; I picked up the pace to get this boring section quickly behind me, unexpectedly busy with cars and motorcycles. Half an hour later, I reached a huge parking lot at Mikuni Pass (三国峠 1164m), completely filled with cars; apparently this is a popular spot for hiking and escaping the early summer heat. Here, I left the road and turned right onto a trail, now entering Yamanashi prefecture as well as the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.

First View of Mt Fuji above Mikuni Pass

The Climbing Season Starts Soon

After a few minutes, I had my first Fuji view of the day, as I left the forest for a grassy area that continued all the way up the mountainside. Mt Fuji was mostly bare of snow with only a few white streaks around the summit crater, the climbing season less than a month away. I headed up the dirt path as it went straight up, getting steeper and steeper, passing several people on their way down. The grassy surroundings, due to past volcanic eruptions, offered plenty of wonderful views of the Fuji Five Lake Area. Less than half an hour after leaving Mikuni Pass, I reached the summit of Mt Teppogi (鉄砲木ノ頭てっぽうぎのあたま teppougi-n0-atama also known as Mt Myojin 明神山), marked by a stone shrine; instead of “Mt” the Japanese name uses “head”, an apt description of the wide and slight rounded summit area.

Heading straight up Mt Teppogi

View of Mt Fuji and Yamanaka Lake

The panoramic view was stunning, one of the best I had seen in a while; I was glad I had woken up early today to travel so far. The high-altitude clouds that had appeared one hour ago were getting blown away by high-altitude winds, creating fantastic patterns in the sky above Fuji. On the south side was Mt Mikuni, covered in green forest; looking west, I could see Mt Fuji and Yamanaka Lake with the white peaks of the South Alps visible in the distance; to the north was Mt Ishiwari, with behind it, Mt Mitsutoge and Mt Mishotai, left and right respectively. It was too early for a lunch break, only 11am, so after enjoying the view, I set off again.

View from the Summit of Mt Teppogi

A Popular Spot to See Mt Fuji

The path headed straight down, through thick forest covering the east side. I moved quickly with no views to distract me, and half an hour later, passed Kiridoshi Pass (切通峠 1050m), after which the path started to climb gently. The trees thinned, allowing some green grass and blue sky to gradually reappear. I was now walking along the Tokai Nature Trail (東海自然歩道), which I had last followed just 6 months ago. As the noon chime started to play through the valley, I arrived at Mt Takazasu (高指山たかざすやま takazasu-yama). The view on the west side, beyond dried stalks of pampas grass (“susuki“), was similar to the previous one, although with more clouds. Since it was noon, I sat on the shaded side of a wooden platform for an early lunch break.

Mt Ishiwari (Center), Mitsutoge (back left) & Mt Mishotai (back right)

Clouds Spreading through the Sky

After setting off again, I found myself walking through more thick forest, along a mostly level path; although I was deprived of views in all directions, I was glad to be in shade at the hottest time of the day. Very soon, I reached the third and final summit of the day, Fujimisaki-daira (富士岬平 1170m); this time, the “Mt” was replaced by “plateau”, indicating its relatively small prominence along the ridgeline. By now, puffs of cloud were covering the highest part of Mt Fuji, giving it kind of retro hairstyle. After a short break, I headed down a path on west side, leaving behind the Tokai Nature Trail.

Mid-morning Blue Skies

Grass Reappearing below Mt Takazasu

The path was steep and eroded making this descent the toughest part of today’s hike. Fortunately, I soon reached a road leading through an area of mostly deserted villas. I always enjoy walking past holiday homes, trying to imagine what it must be like to spend a summer weekend there. I eventually reached a main road where I turned left. After a 15-minute walk, I reached the entrance to the hot spring and was disappointed to find out that it was closed. Apparently they were doing some temporary renovations, which wasn’t the case when I first planned the hike a few weeks ago. I was confident I could find some alternative and marched on under the hot sun to the Yamanakako Hirano tourist office.

View from Mt Takazasu

The Clouds have Reappeared

I was delighted when the lady from the tourist office told me there was a a hot spring hotel just down the street that accepted day trippers. Although it didn’t have an outdoor bath, I was happy to be able to wash off the sweat and change into some fresh clothes. At 2pm, I had the bath to myself, with a view of the ridge I had just hiked on the west side. One hour later, a taxi dropped me off at the Asahigaoka bus terminal. Although, the bus for Gotemba showed up late, typical for the Fuji Five Lake area, I still arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare, and a little before 5h30, I boarded the limited express for the comfortable ride back to Shinjuku.

Trail between Mt Takazasu and Fujimisaki-daira

Mt Fuji in the Clouds

In total this hike took about 5 hours, with little ascending and descending, although including travel time, it was nearly a 14-hour outing. This was mainly because I took a longer way back to avoid the masses of tourists heading back from Kawaguchiko, and also because of my preference for limited express trains and post-hike hot spring baths. Catching the seasonal bus to Myojin Pass was also a great way to get to the area, although it requires a very early departure (in my case, 6am); in this case I was rewarded with great views that I may not have gotten with a later departure. Hopefully, I can redo this hike, or a variant, in a different season when the Ishiwariyu hot spring is open.

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Mt Sengen (235m) & Mt Daicho (192m), Ome & Akiruno Cities, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, June 1, 2025

I was looking for another hike close to home as the Spring weather continued to be unsettled. Thanks to Japanwilds, I was reminded of a small peak in Western Tokyo I had recently spotted on my hiking map, along the Hamura Kusabana hills hiking trail (羽村草花丘陵ハイキングコース). Since it was on the short side for a full day outing, I decided to start near Akaboko in Ome, and then head west through the hills south of Tama river. Along the way, I’d pass a second peak with a view from a shrine on its north side.

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To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo and Ome lines from Shinjuku to Ome station, and there board a bus for the ten-minute trip to Meijibashi, a short distance from the trail entrance. For the return, I’d catch a bus from Shimo-kusabana, a few stops from Fussa station down the Ome line. The weather was supposed to be mostly cloudy, with a chance of sun in the afternoon. I was looking forward to exploring new trails inside the capital and hoping the weather would allow me to complete my planned route.

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Trail past Futatsu-zuka (left) & Before Manji (right)

Walking next to Fences (left) & through Forest (right)

I rode the comfortable and nearly empty Green car to Ome station, arriving there at 11am. I got off the bus one stop early so I could stock up at a nearby convenience store. As I set off for the trail entrance, I noticed that more and more blue sky was appearing overhead, a trend I hoped would continue. At 1130, I reached the Mahiki-zawa forest road (馬引沢林道), and very soon, found myself surrounded by nature walking next to a rushing stream.

Steps past Mt Sengen (left) & Inside a Bamboo Grove (right)

Forested (left) & Open Sections (right) on Mt Daicho

I was delighted by this unexpected river walk, mossy rocks occasionally lit up by stray sun rays. Sturdy, well-made signposts, like those of the “Fureai no Michi”, told me I was following the “Ome! Water and Nature and Plum Road” (Ome! Mizu to Midori to Ume no Michi 青梅! 水と緑と梅の道). At noon, I reached a clearing from where I could see that the patches of blue had turned into a mostly blue sky. Feeling hopeful for the day ahead, I picked up the pace, as the path started to climb gently. Shortly after, I arrived at Mahiki-zawa Pass (馬引沢峠), where I turned left, merging with the Mt Nagabuchi Trail (長淵山ハイキングコース), as well as my Akaboko hike.

Start of the Hike on the Mahiki-zawa Forest Road…

…next to a Rushing Stream

I made good time along the ridge trail, passing other hikers for the first time of the day and glancing at the instructive tree name signs along the way. At 1230, I reached another junction at the Old Futatsu-zuka Pass (旧二ッ塚峠 355m, the highest point of the hike); here I turned right, leaving behind the route of my previous hike. The path soon became narrow, the vegetation crowded in on both sides and the quality of the signposts dropped. I suddenly popped onto a paved road and it took me a few seconds to pick up the narrow trail on the other side. A handful of minutes later I reached the top of a cleft in the ridge allowing for the passage of a road connecting the Tama and Akigawa river valleys, the steep mountain sides covered in cement to prevent collapses. After a short descent, I darted across the road, made my way up the other side, and plunged back into the forest.

Blue Sky from the Forest Road

Fenced Section on the Way to Manji Pass

This was probably the most beautiful part of the hike and it was hard to believe that the busy city lay beyond the green forest. On top of the Spring green and scattered birdsong, I spotted translucent white “Snow Fungus” (Tremella fuciformis), orange-coloured mushrooms, and a ghostly Luna Moth flapping its wings very slowly (it seemed to be dying). I passed almost no one on this section, possibly because most people prefer this area in the colder months. Fortunately, today’s temperature, under 25°, was somewhat cool for June, and I was glad I could enjoy hiking here in this season. At 2pm, a fence appeared on the right of the trail; to it was attached a sign saying “Beware of the Mamushi”(マムシ注意), the Japanese Pit Viper, one of the most venomous Japanese snakes.

Footpath beyond Manji Pass

First View of the Day from Sengen Shrine

I started to worry about a snake encounter, the dense green vegetation on the left the perfect hiding spot. I walked as fast as I could, exposed to the strong June sun now high in the sky. At one point I spotted a green slender shape: webbed feet revealed it to be a lizard basking in the afternoon sun. I felt relieved when the trail finally took me back into the forest, leaving the fence behind. After a short descent, I passed Manji Pass (満地峠), sturdy well-made signposts suddenly making a comeback. At the top of some steps, a waist-high wall appeared on the right side, marking the boundary of a religious organisation. I headed down some steps leaving the wall behind and entered another section of dense and lush vegetation. Shortly after, I found myself walking with a golf green on the right side. After ascending some steps, I emerged onto the flat summit of Mt Sengen (浅間岳せんげんだけ sengen-dake), completely in trees; since it was nearly 3pm, I sat on one of the benches for a late lunch.

Viewpoint between Mt Sengen & Mt Daicho

In the Distance, the Sayama Hills

Looking up, I noticed thick dark clouds fully covering the sky on the north side. I started to worry about rain and set off quickly. First, I made a short detour to the nearby Hamura Shrine (羽村神社) from where I had a view on the north side of Tama river with the Kaji Hills in the background; looking east, I could see the low outline of the Sayama Hills; looking west, I could see the somewhat higher hills of Oku-musashi; on the north side, I spotted the much higher Okutama mountains though a gap in the vegetation; looking down, I realised I was standing at the edge of a cliff, a sturdy fence preventing any unfortunate accidents. I set off again, following the up and down trail westwards, now signposted at the Hamura Kusabana Hills Hiking Trail, and a little before 4pm, reached another viewpoint. Just then, it started to rain lightly.

Central Tokyo under Dark Clouds

Bamboo Grove on Mt Daicho

Fortunately the viewpoint was sheltered by trees so I sat on one of the two log benches to wait out this patch of bad weather. The rain strengthened and although I was mostly dry, I started to consider whether I should escape to the nearby Hamura station. Directly ahead lay the Sayama Hills, from this distance a flat green line extending across the north horizon; to the east, I could see the skyscrapers of Central Tokyo; directly below was the Tama River spanned by two bridges. After 4pm, the rain let up and I dashed off at once. After crossing two roads and a short forested section, I arrived at the base of today’s main mountain.

Trail before Mt Daicho

Trail after Mt Daicho

I soon found myself walking through a beautiful bamboo grove. Unfortunately, the short rain from before had brought out the first mosquitoes of the season; I made a mental note to bring anti-bug repellent on my next hike. At 4h30, the trail levelled as it passed through a section cleared of trees; above the treetops, I could see the rain clouds moving eastwards. At the top of some steps, I reached an open shelter and the top of Mt Daicho (大澄山だいちょうざん daichou-zan). The summit was free of trees but lacked enough prominence to allow me to see past most of the surrounding forest; a gap on the north side showed a small section of the Sayama Hills beyond the city buildings.

Looking back at the Top of Mt Daicho

View South of the Tanzawa Mountains

I was delighted by this open space cut off from the surrounding city. I took a short break at the summit picnic table to enjoy the solitude and then followed a trail southwards between tall pines. I soon had a view of the Tanzawa mountains, forming a protective wall south of the city. Halfway down I came upon the small Kusabana Shrine on a terraced area; I had a wide view from Mt Mito in the Okutama mountains to Mt Oyama in the Tanzawa mountains, the background lit up yellow by the late afternoon sun. It was past 5pm, so I hurried down the steep shrine steps to the residential area at the base of the mountain. A short walk brought me to the bus stop and by 5h30 I was comfortably seated in the green car for the 45-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Gojo (305m) & Mt Nagaone (273m), Hanno City, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, May 24, 2025

I needed to find another short hike near Tokyo while I waited for the return of the sunny days of May, better suited for long day trips. I decided to tackle a couple of minor, unclimbed peaks along a ridge running parallel to the Mt Fukuzawa one. Instead of starting from Kamakita lake on the north side, I’d approach it from the west via Yugate. Although it promised no new views, I hoped to have the latter part of the trail to myself.

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Hiking in Oku-musashi 奥武蔵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Laview limited express to Hanno, and there, change to the Chichibu line for the short ride to Higashi-agano station. I could use the same route for the return, catching the train from Musashi-yokote station, one stop up on the same line. The weather was supposed to be cloudy all day with temperatures almost cool for the season, although rain was forecast in the late afternoon. I was looking forward to exploring new peaks in a frequently visited place.

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Start of the Hike (left) Bamboo Grove past Yugate (right)

Trail along the 3rd clearing (left) Re-entering the Forest (right)

I got off the train at Higashi-Agano station under grey skies at 1130; on the bright side, it was the perfect temperature for hiking. After crossing a busy main road, I climbed some stone steps to get to Agana Shrine (吾野神社) and then headed up the Hikyaku Trail (飛脚道 meaning courier trail) to the right of the main shrine building. A little past noon, I reached a spot where the forest had been cleared to allow for the passage of an electric power line.

Plank Bridge over a Stream (left) Level Section through Ferns (right)

Ridge before (left) and after (right) Mt Gojo

I was glad to get a view early on in the hike, although I had been past this spot before. Looking left, I could see the Hanno Alps directly opposite; further in the distance, I could just make out Mt Izugatake and Mt Buko, half-hidden by low clouds. I soon moved on, and after an up and down, arrived at the top of Mt Hashimoto (橋本山 321m) where a similar view awaited me on the west side. I quickly moved on, and after a short descent, I followed a wide track that led me to the fields and gardens of Yugate Village (ユガテ 290m); looking up, I could see a second set of power lines stretching across the sky.

Looking West towards Izugatake and Buko-san

The Hanno Alps from the First Clearing

I was lucky to get the last free table under a large tree, although many benches were empty. It was nearly one o’clock so I decided to have an early lunch. I set off again a little past 1pm, now following the Oku-musashi Long Trail (奥武蔵ロングトレイル). After passing through a bamboo grove, I followed a winding path hugging the mountain side. Beyond a stream, the path started to climb, then became level at a clearing for the power line passing over Yugate. Shortly after crossing a second stream on a bridge made of two wooden planks, I arrived at Tsuchiyama Pass (土山峠), intersecting with my Fukuzawa hike.

Nearing the Top of Mt Hashimoto

View of the Hanno Alps from Mt Hashimoto

As I stood next to the charming carved wood figure sitting on top of a signpost, I decided to explore the trail heading straight as I was ahead of schedule, leaving the more usual route over Mt Omine to the right. Here, I also left the Oku-musashi Long Trail as it headed left to Kitamukijizo (北向地蔵). After a short and pleasant level section through cedars and green ferns, I popped onto a paved road past a small cemetery around 2pm. I turned right and soon spotted a faint un-signposted trail into the woods, opposite a solitary house.

Empty Benches at Yugate

Level Trail Hugging the Mountain Side

The trail was rough at first, as it followed the contour of the mountain side. Using my phone GPS, as well as the odd strip of pink tape stuck to tree branches, to guide me, I soon reached a wider and easier to follow section, eventually merging with the main trail from Tsuchiyama Pass. In total, this interesting detour around the summit of Mt Omine took me half an hour. Almost immediately, I reached a fork; here, I headed down the left branch, this time leaving the Mt Fukuzawa ridgeline for good.

Path between Yugate and Tsuchiyama-toge

Nice Path along the Oku-musashi Long Trail

I had only just started down this separate ridge that I spotted a small handwritten sign warning hikers of the up and down nature of the trail ahead; it was good news to me, since I wanted a good workout. My only concern was the threat of a downpour as I could smell rain in the air. I quickened my pace and in no time reached the top of Mt Gojo 五常山(ごじょうやま), a minor peak completely in the trees. I continued without a break, quickly passing over a couple of equally minor ups and downs.

Taking a Detour around Mt Omine

Walking through Cedars and Ferns

I enjoyed the solitude of the narrow forested ridgeline, on a well-defined trail with no other hikers. After passing another clearing for a third power line, I reached the base of a steep slope. It was the toughest climb of the day but I soon reached the top of Mt Nagaone (長尾根山ながおねやま meaning long ridge), also completely in the trees; a log bench provided me with an excuse to take a short break and relax in the peaceful surroundings of this seemingly isolated summit. Surprisingly, it equaled the record of Mt Raiden for most summit markers: I counted up to five different ones.

Clearing near the Third Electric Power Line

Steep Slope before Mt Nagaone

At 3pm, I headed down the south side, the steepest section of today’s hike, lined with rope for safety. No sooner had the trail leveled, that I turned left down some logs steps, choosing an alternative to the main route that continued straight. I passed another clearing for a power line, the one I had passed at the very start of the hike. The trail became hard to follow, apparently little used these days, but I stayed on track thanks to my phone GPS. Shortly after passing a “Toro“, or “stone lantern”, and other signs of temple grounds, I reached a paved road at the bottom of some stone steps. At 3h30, I reached Musashi-Yokote station, well before the start of the rain.

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Mt Onita (505m) & Mt Atago (412m) Hanno City, Saitama Prefecture, Sunday, May 11, 2025

I passed by Mt Onita about four years ago, at the end of a long traverse from Okutama. At the time, I’d noticed another trail heading down from the top and thought I could return one day and use it for a short loop hike on the same mountain. Looking at Google Maps, I saw that this trail went by another peak, the summit of which had recently been cleared of trees on the east side and thus opening up a view. As an added bonus, it was also part of the Oku-musashi long trail.

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Hiking in Oku-musashi 奥武蔵

The weather forecast called for clouds and warm temperatures for most of the weekend so I decided it was a good time for some more exploring of the nearby Oku-musashi hills. To get there, I would ride the Laview Limited express to Hanno, and then, board a local bus for the thirty-minute ride to the trailhead; for the return, I’d catch the same bus, three stops up the line. I was looking forward to checking out some new trails in a familiar area.

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Start of the Hike (left) Heading up the Ridge (right)

Level (left) and Downhill (right) sections past Mt Onita

It was a grey, overcast day as I rode the limited express to Hanno, more like June weather than the beginning of May. I got off the nearly empty bus at noon, and after crossing a bridge over the Iruma river, headed up a trail on the left side, past a weather worn sign warning of a bear sighting ten years ago . I felt excited to be back in nature as I followed a footpath through an open grassy space surrounded by talls cedars, all signs and sounds of civilisation instantly gone.

Level Section Before (left) and After (right) Mt Atago

Open (left) and Forest (right) Sections on the way to the Power Station

My enthusiasm was quickly dampened as all signs of the trail completely vanished under rampant bamboo grass; when I had descended this way in the winter, the trail had been easy to follow. After a slight detour and some help from my phone GPS, I was soon back on an easy to follow trail. A little later, I started to climb a steep and root-riddled ridge through mixed forest. I had rushed down this section in semi-darkness back in 2021 so it felt like it was first time to walk this trail.

Open Grassy Space at the Start of the Hike

Climbing a Steep and Root-riddled Ridge

It was surprisingly humid for this time of the year; I regretted not bringing a change of clothes for the return as I started to feel that sticky sensation one usually gets in the rainy season. One hour after setting off, I was standing on the top of Mt Onita (大仁田山おおにたやま oonita-yama) for the second time. The view was less impressive than I had remembered: only a narrow section of central Tokyo around the Sky Tree could be seen between two tree trunks. I continued without a break, hoping for a better view at the next summit, now leaving the route followed on my previous hike.

View South near Ibotori Jizo

View East from the Top of Mt Atago

Almost at once, I got disoriented by the twisting nature of the hilly terrain, compounded by local trails and signposts for places not shown on my map. I was surprised by how much geographical complexity could be packed in such a tiny wooded area. I was equally surprised by the variety of signs competing for my attention, ranging from the beautiful Oku-musashi Long Trail ones to some crude homemade efforts. Relying on my GPS again, I eventually got back on track. At 2pm, I reached a crossroads at Ibotori Jizo (いぼとり地蔵). Although my route turned left, I decided to check out the trail going straight. Very soon, I reached a view on the south side at the top of some log steps.

Summit Table on Mt Atago

Path around the Top of Mt Atago

I could see the undulating ridgeline extending east from Mt Honita, part of the Nariki Ridge Hiking Trail (成木ハイキングコース) which I hope to do one day. Closer by, I could see the red banners for the small red Inari shrine situated a few meters below. After enjoying this unexpected view and observing a butterfly suck up nectar of some purple Azalea (“tsutsuji”), I headed back to the crossroads and turned right along a level path. I soon arrived at a fork where I headed up a steep unmarked track on the left, ignoring the other branch hugging the mountain side. After a short climb, I reached the top of Mt Atago (愛宕山あたごやま atago-yama), a common mountain name in Japan.

Looking Down at the Iruma River Valley

Oku-musashi Mountains in the Background

I was glad to have the top to myself although at this precise moment I heard voices float up from below, followed shortly after by the apparition of a couple of hikers, the first and only other hikers I saw all day. They didn’t dwell and a little later I was by myself again. Directly ahead, I could see the Kanto Plain and the tall buildings of Tokyo, flanked by the green hills of Oku-musashi on each side. It was past 2pm, so I sat at the summit table and had a late lunch with a view and birdsong in the background. Half an hour later, I set off again. After a short descent, I merged with the level trail left earlier, following my GPS down the mountain, rather than the signs.

River Valley near the End of the Hike

Crossing the Iruma River at the End of the Hike

I made one exception near the end of the hike: since I was ahead of schedule, I made a round-trip along a trail signposted for “Hendenjo” (変電所), a Tepco power station according to Google Maps. I only went as far as a viewpoint of the Iruma River Valley near an electric pylon before turning back. At 3h30, I reached a stream at the valley bottom, and shortly after, emerged from the forest at a spot called Shijuuhachi-magari (48 turns), helpfully indicated by the solidly built Oku-muashai Long Trail post. After a short walk through a residential area, I reached a bridge over the Iruma river, beyond which was the bus stop. Less than an hour later, I was comfortably seated on the practically empty Laview limited express for the forty-minute ride back to Ikebukuro.

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Nanao Hills (Highest Point 173m), Hachioji and Hino Cities, Tokyo Prefecture, Thursday, May 8, 2025

I had already done this short hike in Western Tokyo on a cold winter day more than ten years ago. Since I had a chance to go hiking on a weekday morning, I thought it would be nice to redo it and see the new Spring green in the middle of Tokyo. It would also be a continuation of my recent hike between Aihara and Naganuma. Although there are no summits along the trail, I would pass by an observation deck inside Hirayamajoshi park. This hilly trail would also pass next to the Tama Zoological Park with a chance to glimpse some exotic animals.

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Start of the Hike (left) Log Steps inside the Park (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Keio line from Shinjuku to Hirayamajoshi-koen Station. Depending on the time, I could catch a return train from Takahatafudoson station or the closer Minami-daira station, both on the Keio line. I was hoping to see the colourful Takahata Fudoson Temple but since the section around it is through the city, I didn’t mind giving it a miss. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm and I was looking forward to revisiting a green area inside the city of Tokyo.

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Steps for an Observation Deck (left) Path between Park and Zoo (right)

I got off the train at 9am, and after a short walk through a residential neighbourhood, I reached the start of the Nanao Hills walking path (七生散策路), marked by a signpost half-hidden by vegetation. A footpath led me up a grassy slope into the trees; I soon found myself climbing through forest along a well-defined path with wooden handrails, surprised by the sudden full-immersion into nature. A little before 10am, I reached a level open space with a view on the west side, in front of the houses of Hirayama-nichome.

Walking in Nanao Park (left) Walking next to Tama Zoo (right)

Walking on Top of (left) and Down (right) Nanao Hills

I was delighted by this unexpected view so early in the hike. Directly ahead, I could see the Okutama mountains, with Mt Odake, Mt Gozen and Mt Mito in the center; on each side, the Chichibu and Tanzawa mountains extended north and south, respectively; closeby, I could see the Southern Sky Tower next to Hachioji station; finally, on one side of the clearing, I spotted a huge Flowering Dogwood. I soon moved on, and after a short section on a paved road, reached a wooden signpost sending me up a series of steep steps on the left, leading back into the forest.

Open Space with a View at Hirayama-nichome

View of the Okutama Mountains

I was surprised by the constant birdsong, a sharp contrast to my previous hikes north of Tokyo. I soon reached a small shrine, purple azalea adding a dash of colour to the grey stone of its “torii“. From there, a level path led to the entrance of Hirayamajoshi park (平山城址公園), also the highest point of today’s hike. As I crossed the park from west to east, I marvelled at the abundance of green in every direction, more like an urban forest than a city park.

Close-up View of the Mountains surrounding Tokyo

Walking through the West Part of Hirayamajoshi Park

I could only see blue sky above the trees instead of buildings and I could only hear the song of birds, instead of city noises, since the park straddled one of the highest points of the hills. After some ups and down via log steps, I reached an observation deck in the eastern part of the park. Looking west, I could see Mt Gonzen, Mt Odake, Mt Mitake and Mt Hinode, although this view was less clear than the previous one. A little after 11am, I exited the park, and followed a connecting path between two fences, thoughtfully painted in green to match the scenery.

Walking through the East Part of the Hirayamajoshi Park

Hidamari “Sunny Spot” Platform in Hirayamajoshi Park

I was happy I could continue walking through nature, even if it was only a narrow section. I soon reached an open space above a cemetary, the Tama memorial garden, from where I had a view of the Tanzawa mountains to the south. I next followed a road for a short while, feeling quite hot under the midday sun, to a grassy path leading into Nanao Park. After some more ups and downs through beautiful greenery, the path always well-signposted, I reached a section with a chain-link fence on the right side; I knew that the Tama Zoological Garden was somewhere on the other side.

Log Steps inside Hirayamajoshi Park

Green Fence along the Connecting Path

I soon started hearing noises made by various animals although none could be seen through the vegetation. One exception was the Orangutan Forest: I was able to spot an orange lump lounging on one of the elevated platforms. This was probably the nicest section of the day as I was now following a real hiking trail, instead of a path inside a park. At one point, I had a view of the city through a gap in the vegetation on the left side. At noon, I reached a junction for Minami-daira station: here I decided to turn left and make my way back to the train station.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from the Tama Memorial Garden

Approaching Tama Zoo

I was amazed by the steepness of the steps leading down the hillside; even though I was well inside the city, the angle of descent matched that of the mountains surrounding the Kanto Plain. Halfway down, I reached a small observation platform where I had a view of the flat city landscape extending northwards. Eventually I emerged onto a road from where it was a ten-minute walk to Minami-daira station, a forty-minute train ride back to Shinjuku.

View North Halfway down the Nanao Hills

End of the Nanao Hills Hike

I was glad I’d decided to redo this hike in Spring as the impression was quite different from my previous visit. Although the views might be better in winter, the new green scenery was stunning; the trails sections outside the parks were surprisingly well maintained and sign-posted; finally, even though the elevation is relatively low, the hilly nature of the trail made for an excellent workout. In the future, I hope to return and visit the Tama Zoo, as well as the Botanical Gardens of the Tokyo university of pharmacy and life sciences located right next to Hirayamajoshi Park.

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