David

Inagi to Satsukidai Station, Inagi & Kawasaki Cities, Tokyo & Kanagawa Prefectures, Sunday & Tuesday, December 28 & 30, 2025 [Highest point 126m]

I wanted to do my year-end hike inside Tokyo since it’s the one time of the year local lines are mostly empty, as people head to their hometowns for the year-end holidays. The shorter travel times and lower elevations are also better suited to the short, cold days of winter. Finally, I was keen to continue exploring the network of trails south of the Tama river, often overlooked in my quest to scale new peaks.

Path above (left) and behind (right) Myoken-ji

Steps (left) and Susuki (right) on the Shinrinyoku Route

Looking at my map, I picked a station to station hike easily accessible from the city center. I’d ride the Keio Sagamihara line to Inagi station, just 30 minutes from Shinjuku, and first explore the forested, hilly area above Myoken Temple. I’d then head southwest along the Misawa River valley to Kurokawa station. Next, I’d follow the “Forest Bathing” route southeast to Kurihira station. Finally, I’d continue in the same direction along an unnamed ridge path and finish at Satsukidai station on the Odakyu Tama line, also 30 minutes from Shinjuku.

Walking above Shinkoji Park (left) and Town (right)

Path past Kurihira (left) Bamboo Grove before Satsukidai (right)

The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures cold for the season. Although my planned route didn’t include any summits, I hoped to get views of Tokyo, the Kanto Mountains, as well as snow-capped Mt Fuji. I was looking forward to enjoying various “Satoyama” sceneries along the way.

In the end, I decided to break the hike into two parts: I finished at Kurokawa around 3pm on the 28th, and started again from Wakabadai, one station down the line, around 1pm, on the 30th, each section about 3 hours. The weather on the 30th remained sunny but with temperatures warm for the season.

Entrance to Myoken-ji Temple

View of Central Tokyo from Yushi no Satoyama

It was a crisp, cold winter day as I exited Inagi station around 1130am. A short walk brought me to the entrance of the peaceful Myoken-ji temple (妙見寺). After checking out the bell tower, I headed up a steep flight of stone steps to a shrine gate; beyond, a paved road continued uphill through a bamboo grove ending at Myoken shrine. To its right, I found a path ending at a sunny hilltop called Yushi no Satoyama (ゆうしの里山) from where I had a view to the east.

Path for Shiroyama no Mori

View of Mt Fuji from Shiroyama no Mori

I was glad to get a view of central Tokyo so early in the hike. From left to right, I could see Sunshine 60, the Tocho and the Skytree. After admiring the view, I made my way to a nearby open shelter from where I could also see Mt Haruna and Mt Akagi, far away to the north, the highest peaks covered in snow. I followed the ridge northeast, surrounded by forest hiding the city buildings from view. Past another open shelter, I suddenly spotted Mt Fuji through the bare trees on the right side.

Walking through Shiroyama no Mori

Bamboo Grove below Shiroyama no Mori

I was pleased to finally get a good view of the snowy top of Mt Fuji, its base hidden by the Tanzawa mountains; it was also truly unexpected, as this spot is unmarked on my maps. I continued on my way, heading down a dirt track with bamboo on my left side. I already felt quite satisfied with this first hour of hiking, having seen a temple, bamboo groves and views of the skyscrapers of Tokyo and Mt Fuji. After passing through some fields, I was back inside a residential neighbourhood. After going under the railway tracks, I turned left, and was now following a pedestrian path running parallel to the Misawa river.

Walking along the Misawa River

View of Wakabadai from Kurokawa Farm

Walking against the sun, I was dazzled by the golden pampas grass, growing on both sides of the river. At 1h30, I reached the Inagi City Chūō Park (稲城中央公園), and shortly after, settled on a stone bench next to a secluded bamboo grove for a lunch break. At 2pm, I resumed my hike. After thirty minutes of walking through fields and residential areas , I arrived at Kasayato Water Park (上谷戸親水公園) in the shade of Kasayato Bridge, spanning the sky. After observing a spinning “suisha” (waterwheel), I followed narrow quiet back lanes to the Kurokawa Farm Village, on a plateau on the south side of the river.

Immersed in Nature on the Shinrinyoku Route

Bench with a view of Shinkoji Town

Turning around, I had a wide view of the river valley, apartment blocks lining the north ridge. I descended the west side and reached Kurokawa station at 3pm. The next day, starting from Keio Wakabadai station, I soon reached the nearby Odakyu Kurokawa station, beyond which was the Kurokawa Youth Outdoor activity center, as well as the start of the “shinrinyoku” (forest bathing) route, part of the Asao walking trails. I followed the pleasant footpath westwards through tall pampas grass waving under blue skies. At the top of some log steps, I turned left at an junction; I was now heading southeast through the suburbs, inside a narrow finger of vegetation, alongside Shinkoji Park (真光寺公園), although its central lawn and lake were hidden by forest.

Elevated Path beyond the Shinkoji Green Space

Entering the Tsurugawadai Ridge Green Space

I was surprised to be enclosed by nature so close to the city center. This section is also known as the Shinkoji Green Space (真光寺緑地) and continues into the Tsurugawa-dai Ridge Green Space (鶴川尾根緑地). At 2pm, I reached a bench with a view at the edge of the forest. Looking west, I could see the Tanzawa mountains with Mt Fuji behind, although less clear then two days ago; stretching south was Shinkoji Town. I made a brief stop for lunch and then continued on my way. After a short stretch of open views, I entered the forest again. The dirt track soon ended at a paved road where I turned left, leaving the ridge and descending into the Katakira river valley, through another agricultural area. At 3pm, I passed through Odakyu Kurihira station and soon reached another ridge trail through a green space on the north side of the valley.

A Trail with a view of the city

Walking through Furusawa Sakai Forest

I was delighted to be once again walking through nature. At 3h30, I passed the Gorida View Park (五力田見晴公園) with a view of the town on the southwest side. At 4pm, I entered Furusawa Sakai (古沢境), the evergreen forest alternating between shade and golden light. At a junction, I turned right and headed down stone steps, bamboo on my right. I turned left upon reaching a road and passed a red shinto gate leading to Kuromyo Shrine (九郎明神社), its grounds being cleaned for the upcoming new year shrine visit. Soon after, I came upon some fields where I turned right onto a road leading to Satsukidai station, arriving around 4h30, just on time to catch the train for the next station, Shin-Yurigaoka, where I caught the express for the short ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Ogura (955m), Koshu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 23, 2025

I wanted to do another hike in Yamanashi that could be done by car. Looking at my hiking map, I found a mountain north of Yamanashi city, nearly halfway between Mt Daibosatsu and Mt Obina. It was a relatively short loop with a view of the South Alps and Mt Fuji from the observation tower from the summit. Known for its skunk cabbage fields in early spring, I hoped to have the trails mostly to myself in this season.

To get to the hike, I’d drive a share car from Kofu station to a parking lot at Tamamiya Zazenso Park. On the way there, I would stop by Soba Maru, last visited 5 years ago, for a pre-hike lunch. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures average for the season. I was looking forward to a pleasant Autumn hike in the mountains of Yamanashi and hoped to get a glimpse of snow-capped Fuji.

Trail between the Skunk Cabbage Fields and the Ridgeline

Some Colours on the Descent

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the Chuo limited express to Kofu city. It was a pleasant drive to Soba Maru, trees lining the roads resplendent in their Autumn colours. At 1230, it was the middle of the lunch rush hour and it took about an hour before I was seated; while waiting, I was able to admire the view of the mountains of Oku-Chichibu, clearly visible at this time of the year. After a satisfying lunch, I quickly set off again, arriving at Tamamiya Zazenso Park (玉宮ざぜん草公園 ) at 2h30, one hour behind schedule.

View towards Mt Konara (right) from Soba Maru

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains from Soba Maru

I headed up the main trail, ignoring the wooden walkways on each side as the Skunk Cabbage fields lay dormant in this season. The trail headed straight up a valley already in the shade; the path was covered in yellow leaves, Autumn nearly over at this elevation. At 3pm, I reached the sunny ridgeline, where I turned right. After ten minutes of climbing through dark cedars, I reached the wooden observation tower at the top of Mt Ogura (小倉山おぐらやまogura-yama) with a view on the South side.

Trail below the Sunlit Ridgeline

Climbing through Dark Cedars

The sun hung low above the horizon, highlighting the misty valleys between rows of mountains, with the South Alps throning in the background, Mt Kita clearly visible in the center. Leaning over the balcony and looking left, I could see Mt Fuji, although its snowcap wasn’t discernable from this distance and at this time of the day. After this magical view, I retraced my steps and continued straight along the ridge, heading northwards. Under cover of another cedar forest, the trail narrowed and became less distinct.

The Ogura Observation Tower

Misty View of the Yamanashi Mountains

I stepped up the pace, concerned about the late hour. At 4pm, I was once again walking under leafless trees, relieved to be back in the sunlight. At the top of a steep section, interspersed with rocks and lined with roped to indicate the way, I arrived at the minor summit Mt Kamijo (上条山かみじょうやま kamijo-yama 996m). Although it was completely in the trees, the summit marker was golden in the final sun rays of the day. After a short break, I headed down the north side, descending carefully the steep and slippery, leaf-covered slope.

The South Alps with Mt Kita in the Middle

Stream near the End of the Hike

The trail became hard to pick out, forcing me to rely on my GPS and pink strips attached to tree branches. At 4h30, I turned left at Kamijo Pass (上条峠), and headed down a wide valley; here and there, some Autumn leaves remained, adding colour to the early evening darkness. As the valley deepened, the trail gradually became more defined. I soon arrived at a stream where I turned left, now on the last section of the loop. I turned right just before a solar farm, and past Funamiya Shrine (船宮神社), crossed a bridge over the stream. Just beyond was the road, a short walk from the parking which I reached a little after 5pm, just as the last traces of light faded from above the Kofu basin to the south.

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Mt Kuro (1793m) & Mt Hafu (1674m), Fuefuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 16, 2025

I had climbed these mountains in December 2013 from the Kawaguchiko side. I wanted to hike them again but from the Fuefuki side; I also wanted to try out our Japanwilds Kuro-dake Map for Avenza. Finally, I was interested in riding the free shuttle bus between the Ashigawa Agricultural Products Market “Ogossoya” and the Suzuran-gunseichi Parking Lot; it started running last year to reduce traffic due to the nearby Fujiyama Twin Terrace. However, the bus I had used on my previous trip to the area from Isawa Onsen had been discontinued, so I ended up renting a car from Kofu city instead and skipping the shuttle entirely.

Hiking inside the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

From the parking lot, I could take the most direct route up Mt Kuro, and after checking out the view from the nearby observation point, follow the ridge westwards past Mt Hafu and then down to Shindo Pass, also the location of the Fujiyama Twin Terrace. From there, I would again take the most direct route back to the parking. If time allowed, I could drop by Kamiku no Yu onsen on the way back. The weather was supposed to be sunny but near freezing at higher elevations. I hoped to get some good views of Mt Fuji and also catch the last of the Autumn colours.

Get a map of the Mt Kuro hike

This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer

Find more Japan hiking maps on Avenza

Fallen Leaves (left) and Beeches (right) at the Start of the Hike

Trail near the Top (left) Autumn Colours at the End of the Hike (right)

It was a blue sky day as I drove southwards from Kofu station towards the Misaka Mountains (御坂山地). After following a narrow road along the Ashi river valley, I arrived at the Lily of the Valley Flower Colony Parking Lot (すずらん群生地駐車場) just after 11h30. I had to use a smaller parking for hikers since the main one, a little further down the road, was reserved for people using the Twin Terrace Bus. A little after noon, I set off along a faint path starting from the parking lot. After passing a second parking for hikers and crossing a small bridge over a dry riverbed, I arrived at an electric fence beyond which was the start of a well-defined walking path.

Last Rays of Sun near the Summit of Mt Kuro

Trail near Mt Hafu

I found myself walking among tall beeches, their tops already bare of leaves, drawing attention to their white trunks. After recrossing the dry riverbed, I reached a paved road where I turned right and soon passed the gated entrance for the road for Fujiyama Twin Terrace, closed to private cars. A little further, I arrived at a sign for today’s mountain, pointing to a faint trail heading up the left side of the dry riverbed. Here, I was glad I could see my position on the Japanwilds digital map since the trail was at times hard to follow. At 1pm, I turned right onto a ridge, the path merging with a signposted trail leading to the summit.

Sun Rays Filtering through the clouds

View of Kawaguchiko Lake from below Mt Hafu

I made good time up the steep trail allowing me to stay warm in the frigid temperatures. I was above 1000 meters and Autumn was already well over, the white beeches providing most of the scenery; a sign indicating told me I was inside a 100 famous forest of Yamanashi. The trail gradually became less steep, giving me a chance to catch my breath without having to take a break. After a couple of turns, I suddenly came upon the summit of Mt Kuro (黒岳くろだけ kuro-dake meaning “Mt Dark”), the highest peak of the Misaka mountains and a 300 famous mountain of Japan. It was completely in the trees so I dropped my pack and headed for the observation point a few meters to the right, hoping to get a glimpse of Mt Fuji.

First Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Autumn Leaves Catching the Sun from the First Terrace

I was surprised to see that thick clouds had rolled in during my ascent, completely hiding Mt Fuji from view. According to the other hikers, I had missed Japan’s iconic volcano by only a few minutes. Looking down, I still had a view of Kawaguchiko lake extending east to west along the base of the mountains. On the right side, I could see Mt Ou and Mt Setto, two other main peaks of the Misaka mountains. I decided to skip my planned lunch break and immediately head to the next summit, in hope that the clouds would have cleared by then. I retraced by steps and headed down a steep path on the west side; beyond Suzuran Pass (すずらん峠), the path became level and easy to walk.

In the Distance, Mt Shakushi and Mt Mishotai

View of Kawaguchi City and its Lake from the 2nd Terrace

This was the most peaceful and pleasant part of the hike, surrounded by pines masking all sounds and views. I soon passed the summit of Mt Hafu (破風山はふうざん hafu-zan), only noticeable by its summit marker doubling as a signpost. A short way down the west side was another viewpoint of the Fuji Five Lake area. It was past 2pm so I settled down for a late lunch. Although the clouds were still in, sun rays filtering through the gaps created a magical scenery. At 2h30 I set off again, and soon after passing another viewpoint on the left side, I came upon the first terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace at Shindo Pass (新道峠). Opened in July 2021, it was accessible via a short bus ride from the Suzuran Gunseichi parking (a fee is charged each way), and thus was filled with about a dozen sightseers.

Second Terrace of Fujiyama Twin Terrace

Mt Fuji on a Clear Day (Dec 2013 Photo)

I was stunned by the view of the golden larches covering the foothills, enhanced by the late afternoon sun rays, although Fuji was still stubbornly in the clouds. I made my way to the first terrace, just a few meters away; it was deserted of people, tall pines slightly in the way of the perfect view. It was nearly 3pm, a couple of hours before dark, so I gave up on seeing Japan’s highest mountain and headed down via a paved road, moving to the side once to let the bus pass. Fifteen minutes later, I turned left onto the trail from Suzuran Pass; after descending through dark cedars, I reached a small road the second parking for hikers.

Autumn Leaves near the End of the Hike

A multicolour Japanese Maple Tree

During this part, I finally got a close up view of some beautiful Autumn leaves. A little after 3h30, I arrived back at my car, the last one left in parking area. I drove a short distance to Kamiku-mo-yu, which I reached just before sunset, and after a refreshing hot bath, got back behind the wheel for the return trip to Kofu. Although I experienced a “shy Fuji” today, I was glad I could do a hike in the Fuji area, somewhat of a challenge nowadays due to the high number of overseas visitors. I’d like to return one day and try another hike, but this time starting from Fujiyama Twinterrace.

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Mt Mito (1531m) & Mt Osawa (1524m), Hinohara Village, Tokyo Prefecture, Saturday, November 8, 2025

I had been up Mt Mito twice before, in 2010 and 2018, but felt it was time to revisit this 300 famous mountain of Japan inside the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park and the Hinohara Tokyo Citizens’ Forest. I wanted to walk though beautiful forest, see some more Autumn colours, as well as explore new trails close to the capital; with luck, I’d also get a view of Mt Fuji from the summit. Looking at my map, I decided to go up the Otaki and Buna Paths, as I did in 2018, but descend via a new route, the Miyama Path; I’d pass another summit on the way, and end up on the Otaki Path again for the last leg back.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Ome line to Hajima and change to the Istukaichi line for the short ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station. From there, I’d board an express bus for the one-hour trip to Tokyo Citizen’s Forest, the end of the line. I decided to catch the mid-morning bus and take the last one of the day back, meaning I’d need to finish well on time today. The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning turning cloudy in the afternoon. I hoped I’d be able to get some views before the sun vanished and that it wouldn’t be too cold on top of one of Tokyo’s highest peaks.

Start of the Hike (left) Above Otaki Waterfall (right)

Stone Steps (left) and Log Steps (right) on the Beech Path

It was a sunny day as I rode the Green Car through the suburbs of Tokyo. After arriving at Musashi-Itsukaichi station just before 11am, I made my way to the head of the line for the Tomin no mori (東民の森) express bus. Thanks to the bus being only half-full, most hikers having taken the early morning one, I had views on the left and right of the Autumn colours along the Akigawa river, as the bus crossed several bridges on the way up the narrow valley.

Ascending (left) and Level Sections (right) along the Beech Path

Takimi Bridge (left) Mito Otaki Waterfall (right)

I was lucky to spot some monkeys along the road, on the opposite side of the ridge from Hossawa falls where I had spotted them on my 2020 hike. There was little traffic in the middle of the day, allowing the bus to arrive ten minutes before schedule, at 1235. I set off almost immediately to get the most out of the sunny weather, passing many people wrapping up their hike. Within a few minutes I was walking along the “Big Waterfall” Path (大滝の路 ootaki-no-michi), also called the Forest Therapy Road (森林セラピーロード shinrin-serapi-rodo), a wide, level trail through mixed forest. Very soon, I reached a viewpoint on the left side.

Start of the Forest Therapy Road

Viewpoint of the Akigawa Valley from the Otaki Path

I was glad to get a view of the Autumn colours under the blue sky, high thin cirrus clouds announcing an imminent weather change. Directly ahead was the long ridge leading to Sengenrei opposite was the ridge for Mt Maruyama; in the far distance, I could make out the 3 mountains of Tokura (戸倉三山). A sign indicated that the elevation was 1078m, meaning I had about 500 meters to climb. I set off again and at 1pm, arrived at Takimi bridge (滝見橋), a wooden suspended bridge, opposite Mito-otaki (三頭大滝), a 30-meter high waterfall.

Beech Path below the Summit

View of Mt Odake (left) from the Observation Deck

The stream of falling water surrounded by vivid Autumn foliage was more impressive than I had remembered. I spent a few minutes enjoying the view before retracing my steps back to the trail, the other end of the bridge leading nowhere. I soon reached a junction where I took the right branch, the start of the Beech Path (プナの路 buna-no-michi); the left branch was the end of the Miyama Path where I hoped to arrive later on. The rocky path, possibly an ancient road, climbed steadily, crossing a stream several times over man-made stone bridges.

Going Down via the Miyama Path

Autumn Colours on the Miyama Path

I was glad to be walking alongside rushing water since it had been nearly 6 months since my last river hike. I kept up the fast pace, and after reaching a couple of benches at Mushikari Pass (ムシカリ峠), turned right up a series of log steps for the final part of the climb. The beeches here were stunning, with their white trunks and orange leaves. I soon passed a sign for 1500 meters, my fast climbing speed protecting me against the near freezing temperatures. Just after 2pm, I arrived at the Mt Mito West Peak (三頭山西峰 1524m). Mt Mito translates as “three tops” since it is formed of 3 separate peaks. Looking south through a gap in the trees, I could see the top crater of Mt Fuji poking above the clouds; looking north, I could see the prominent peak of Mt Takanosu directly ahead; further away and slightly to the left was Mt Kumotori.

Few People on this Adventurous Trail

Trail before Mito Otaki Waterfall

I suddenly felt very cold, the forecasted clouds having filled most of the sky; after bundling up, I headed down a trail on the west side but soon found myself climbing again. In quick succession, I passed the central and highest peak of Mt Mito (三頭山みとうさん mitou-san) and the Mt Mito east peak (三頭山東峰 1527m), both completely in the trees; beyond was an Observation Point, a wooden deck on the north side of the mountain. Here I dropped my backpack for a late lunch with a view. I could see Mt Gozen and Mt Odake, the Autumn leaves in the foreground slightly muted by the overcast sky. At 2h30, feeling chilled, I shouldered my pack, retraced my steps to Mushikari Pass, and continued straight, following the ridgeline southwards, past the Mt Mito Emergency Hut (三頭山避難小屋). At 3pm, I reached the top of Mt Osawa (大沢山おおさわやま oosawa-yama), Mt Fuji now hidden in the clouds but Mt Mishotai and Mt Kuki both clearly visible.

Takimi Bridge and Otaki Falls

Red Japanese Maple on the Forest Therapy Road

I headed downhill through a deep, quiet forest, now following the Mountain path (深山の路 miyama-no-ro), the only person to venture along it at this late hour. After some level ridge walking, I turned left at a junction, leaving the route of my 2010 hike. From this point it was mostly downhill, through mixed forest in resplendent Autumn colours, interspersed with solitary pines. Around 3h30, I passed a rocky clearing with a view of the triangular summit of Mt Mito on the north side. About 30 minutes later, the path crossed a stream, and after following it for a short while, merged with the Otaki Path. Since I was ahead of schedule, I had time to check out the waterfall again and also drop by the Shinrinkan (森林官 Forest Building) before hopping on the bus for Musashi-Istukaichi station. Light traffic allowed the bus to arrive early again, giving me ample time to buy some local sake before boarding the train for the train ride back to Tokyo.

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Yatsugatake Sanroku Super Trail (Highest Point 1410m), Minami-maki & Koumi Towns, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, November 2, 2025

I had previously walked several sections of the Yatsugatake Sanroku Super Trail, from Kiyosato station to Kai-koizumi station (sections 5 & 6), from Nobeyama station to Kiyosato station (sections 7 & 8) and the Kirigamine Highland loop (#15); I was reminded of this long distance trail earlier this year when I passed by the head office of the Japan Long Trail Association at the Momofuku Ando Center. I felt it was time to explore another section of this multi-day trail around the foothills of the Yatsugatake mountain range. Looking at my map, it seemed that section 9, between Nobeyama station and Matsubara Lake, could be done as a day trip from Tokyo. It was on the long side, and although the elevation change was modest, I would need to walk fast with few breaks to complete it before dark.

Hiking on Yatsugatake 八ヶ岳

To get to the start of the hike, I would ride the Chuo line limited express to Kobuchizawa, and there, change to the Koumi lime for the half an hour 500 meter ascent to Nobeyama station. At the end of the hike, I could catch a bus from Matsubara Lake and get off at Yahho Onsen. After a hot bath, I could use the same bus in the opposite direction to get to Matsubarako Station; there, I could board the Koumi line for the one hour trip to Sakudaira station where I could hop on the shinkansen for Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be sunny, and although the temperatures would reach 20°C in the lowlands, they would remain under 10°C in the highlands. I was looking forward to a countryside ramble with views of the Nagano mountains.

Oku-Chichibu Mountains (left) Mt Ogura (right)

Japanese Maple (left) Matsubara Lake Path (right)

It was a sunny Autumn day as I rode the Azusa Limited Express to Kobuchizawa (887m), where I transferred to the packed two-car Koumi line train bound for Komoro. It was only from Kiyosato station that I could get a seat on the last section of the ride up the southeastern edge of Yatsugatake. A little before 11am, I stepped off the train at Nobeyama station (1345m), the highest train station in Japan, also the start of today’s section of the Yatsugatake Sanroku Super Trail (八ヶ岳山麓スーパートレイル) or Super Trail of the Mt Yatsu Foothills.

View of Yatsugatake from the Makiba Line

Nagano Autumn View

I was immediately chilled by the mountain breeze, as well as the freezing wind blowing from the Yatsugatake mountains directly opposite. After bundling up, I set off along a busy road past an equally busy dairy farm, but soon turned right onto a quiet countryside lane through mixed forest, the Yatsugatake Makiba Line (八ヶ岳まきばライン) which I’d follow for most of the hike. I soon reached an open section with pastures on each side of the road and wide views in both directions.

Mt Ogura (left), Mt Otoko (center) & Mt Tengu (right)

Autumn Leaves near Senga Falls

I was glad to get a view so soon on the hike. Looking west, I could see the Southern Yatsugatake mountains, its peaks tinged in white and its foothills tinted red; on the east side were the lower but more numerous peaks of the Oku-Chichibu mountains. Low clouds had appeared directly above Yatsugatake, casting shade on its steep rocky flanks; it made me wonder if the sunny weather would hold. The road dipped into a shallow valley and after crossing a bridge, I reached another viewpoint of the Oku-Chichibu mountains.

Autumn Colours above Senga Falls

Metal Staircase for Senga Falls

I was stunned by the contrast of light blue sky and pale yellow susuki grass. In the distance, I could make out, from left to right, Mt Ogura, Mt Otoko, Mt Tengu, Mt Yokoo and Mt Meshimori. The susuki was swaying in successive breezes, fluffy clouds moving south to north along the valley between the two mountain ranges. As the noon chime played, I remembered I was on a tight schedule and set off again, the occasional passing car interrupting the peaceful surroundings. I turned left at a junction with another road, staying on the Makiba line, and followed the road as it descended into a forested valley.

The Okuchichibu mountains with pastures in the foreground

Heading down into the Chikuma River Valley

I was pleased to discover the entrance to a hiking trail just past a bridge over a river. It was signposted for a waterfall and although time was short today, I decided to check it out. After a five-minute walk along a rough path, I reached the top of a metal staircase. From the base, it was a short distance to the roaring Senga Falls (千ヶ滝), its flow likely inflated due to the recent rains. After taking a while to admire the tumbling water, I retraced my steps to a spot next to the river where I sat on a boulder for a lunch break.

Clouds heading towards Mt Asama

Dark Clouds above Yatsugatake

I was treated to a magical scenery of falling leaves with every gust of wind. The background music of rushing water nearly nursed me to sleep but I had to move along as it was nearly 1pm. Back on the road, I was surprised to see workers in uniform sweeping and raking the fallen leaves in the middle of nowhere. I turned right at a junction, staying on the main road. After another straight section with pastures and a view of the Oku-chichibu mountains, I turned left at the next junction, leaving the main road for a lane, also part of the Makiba line, going up through mixed forest.

Autumn Colours along the Chikuma River Valley

Koumi Line before Umijiri Station

I now passed the highest point of today’s hike (1410m) completely surrounded by orange larches. I caught some movement in the forest and spotted a pair of deer before they bounded away. Soon the road veered right, exited the forest, and descended through farmland where people were busy working the fields. Far away to the north, beyond the green lettuce fields, was Mt Asama; turning around, dark menacing clouds threatened to engulf Yatsugatake. I continued downhill and soon the sound of rushing water could be heard; peering through the trees on the left side, I spotted a river flowing through a forested valley. Beyond a bridge the valley deepened, offering sweeping views of the opposite ridge.

Autumn Colours at Ioin Temple

Footbridge over Otsuki River

This was the most beautiful section of the hike, the mountainside across the valley resplendent with Autumn colours and enhanced by the afternoon sun. Around 2h30, I reached the base of the valley and crossed the Chikuma river, the longest river in Japan; a little later, I passed through the small town around Umijiri station (1035m), the lowest point of today’s hike. After quickly checking out Ioin Temple, I followed a road heading back up into the mountains. Upon reaching a plateau, I turned right through a small community, and crossed a wooden footbridge high above a river.

Mt Ogura from the Footbridge over Mt Otsuki

Fiery Maple Leaf at Matsubara Lake

At the midway point, I had an impressive view of the orange-hued river valley, with Mt Ogura in the far distance, two puffy clouds floating overhead. It was now past 3pm so I hurried along, anxious to catch my bus. Here and there rice was still being harvested in individual fields, sharing the land with solar farms. The sun had sunk below the clouds on the west side, muting the colours of Cho Lake along the way. Soon after, I finally arrived at Matsubara Lake (松原湖), the main attraction of Matsubara Highland (松原湖高原). I followed a path along the lakeshore admiring the red and yellow colours along the way, before hopping on the bus for Yahho Hot spring. After a short but refreshing bath, I boarded the bus on its return trip to Matsubarako station.

Autumn Colours at Matsubara Lake

Lake View at the End of the Hike

In total, the hike took nearly five hours, mostly along paved roads which enabled me to walk at a fast pace. I was glad to have caught the Autumn colours at their peak, the first time for me to see them this season. Unlike the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail, signposting was non-existent and I had to rely on my phone GPS to find my way. This could explain why I saw no other hikers along the way. In the future I hope to be able to do sections 1 and 11, as they also seem doable as one day trips via public transport, and perhaps in a different season.

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Mt Rakanji (1058m) & Mt Shirosuna (920m), Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, October 12, 2025

I had been up Mt Rakanji once before when I visited Shosenkyo in October 2013. Back then, I drove from Kofu and used the ropeway, since the main purpose was to explore the spectacular Mitake-Shosenkyo gorge. I was reminded of this interesting peak when I saw it from Mt Shiro last year. Looking at my Mountains of Yamanashi guidebook, I found a relatively easy hike traversing this mountain from north to south, including another peak I had never climbed. As an added bonus, I’d also be able to check out the nearby Kanazakura Shrine.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d take the Chuo line limited express to Kofu, and then ride a bus to Shosenkyo, getting off at the end of the line. From there, I’d follow a paved road on foot for another 30 minutes to get to the trail entrance. For the return, I’d catch the same bus, two stops up the line at the entrance of the gorge. I planned to get off at Yumura Onsen, on the bus route and inside Kofu city, for a quick hot spring bath at Yumura Hotel before catching the train back.

Trail before the the Top of the Ropeway (left) Trail for Mt Rakanji (right)

Stone Steps & Chains on Mt Rakanji (left) View from Mt Shirosuna (right)

The weather was supposed to be clear in the morning and overcast in the afternoon, with temperatures approaching 30° in the Kofu basin, unusually high for the season. I hoped it would feel cooler up the mountains; I also hoped I’d be able to get a glimpse of Mt Fuji and the South Alps before the clouds rolled in; finally, since the Autumn leaves were only due next month, I was counting on smaller crowds than usual. I was looking forward to a relaxing early Autumn hike in a familiar area.

Shinto Gate at the Entrance of Kanazakura Shrine

View of the Oku-Chichibu Mountains near the Start of the Hike

It was a cloudy morning as I left Tokyo but after entering the Kofu Basin, I was greeted with blue skies and a view of the South Alps, still clear of snow. I arrived at Kofu station just after 10am, and after standing in line waiting for the “Green Line” (グリーンライン), felt lucky to be seated on the crowded bus for the fifty-minute ride to Shosenkyo-Takiue, five minutes on foot from the Shosenkyo ropeway (昇仙峡ロープウェイ). After observing hoverflies busily nectaring at purple Asters and Jorogumo spiders hungrily eating their prey, I set off along the Shosenkyo Line road and away from the various tourist attractions surrounding Sengataki station (仙娥滝駅) at the base of the ropeway. A little before noon, I arrived at a shrine entrance at a bend in the road.

View of Mt Kenashi (left) and the South Alps (right)

Start of the Dirt Road for Mt Rakanji

I was impressed by the bright red Shinto gate (“torii”), surrounded by colourful pennants flapping in the breeze, and also by several towering cedars at the top of a steep flight of steps. A small sign propped at the base of one of them indicated it was part of the 100 trees of historical interest in Yamanashi prefecture, although I couldn’t tell whether it was taller than its neighbours. At the top of another flight of steps, I reached the main building of Kanazakura Shrine (金桜神社), another striking bright red structure. On the opposite side was a gravel path with an enticing sign for a nearby viewpoint of Mt Fuji.

Wooden Walkway on the Way to Mt Rakanji

View of Kurofuji (left) and Mt Kinpu (right)

I couldn’t resist making the short round-trip, especially since the sun was shining and the trail seemed easy to walk. After a 10-minute walk through tall cedars, I arrived at an open space with a view of Mt Fuji framed by pines to the south; looking north, I could make out the broad summit ridge of Mt Kinpu, recognisable by the manmade boulder formation protruding from its highest point. After a short break to enjoy the peaceful surroundings, I retraced my steps to the base of the shrine, and a short distance away, turned right up a road signposted for today’s mountain. After a few bends, I reached the end of the paved road and entered an open space with a view to the northeast.

Forest Road along the Level Ridgetop

Mt Kaya (left), Mt Tachioka (center) and Kurofuji (right)

I was glad to get such a wide view so soon on the hike. On the left side, I could see Kurofuji, its cone-shaped summit not visible from this angle, and on the right side, was Mt Kinpu again, its rocky flanks now visible from this higher elevation. I followed a path for a few minutes westwards and off the main trail, to get a view of the South Alps, hazy blue in the far distance and with golden yellow Japanese Pampas grass (“susuki”) in the foreground. I made my way back through the “susuki” field and turned right up a dirt road. I soon reached a cleared area at the edge of the forest with a view on the north and east sides.

Mt Fuji from near the Panorama-dai Station (2013 photo)

Mt Kinpu and Lake Nosen from the Panorama-dai Viewpoint (2013 photo)

I was pleasantly surprised to get such a wide view on this side of the mountain, which now included Mt Tachioka at the very left and Lake Nosen at the very right. Mt Kinpu rose prominently in the background, the second highest peak in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park and a 100 famous mountain of Japan. Since it was nearly 1h30, I found a suitable tree stump to sit on for a late lunch break. As forecast, the clouds had spread across the sky from the south, providing some welcome shade on a warm Autumn day. I set off again along a winding track sticking close to the level ridgeline, and just before 2pm, exited the forest just below the Panorama-dai Station (パノラマ台駅) of the Shosenkyo ropeway.

Mt Fuji (left) and Mt Kenashi (right) on the way to Mr Rakanji

Mt Shirosuna from Mt Rakanji

I sped through the sightseeing spots around the ropeway and up the trail for today’s first peak, taking care in the rocky sections and making good use of the safety chains; luckily, the thin pre-autumn leaves crowds meant I could make good time, and at 2h30, I reached the summit of Mt Rakanji (羅漢寺山らかんじやま rakanjiyama) also known as Mt Yasaburo (弥三郎岳やさぶろうだけ yasaburoyama), a famous 100 mountain of Yamanashi. I took a moment to enjoy the alpine-like scenery of white smooth rocks and pine trees, as well as the 360° view from the top; Mt Fuji now had a cloud perched on its summit crater in lieu of snow. I then retraced my steps back to the ropeway area and headed down a half-hidden path on the south side.

South View from the Top of Mt Rakanji

Between Mt Fuji and Mt Kenashi lies Kofu City

I was happy to leave the crowds behind although I now found myself walking all alone through forest in the middle of the afternoon. Fortunately the path was easy to follow, and at 3pm, I arrived at the turn-off on the left side for today’s next peak. It took me about ten minutes of climbing to reach an exposed rocky area with a view of the ridge leading to Mt Rakanji. A few more minutes brought me to another such place but with a view southwards of Mt Fuji and the Kofu basin. Finally, after a couple more minutes of walking through the smooth white boulders and gnarly pines, I arrived at the top of Mt Shirosuna (白砂山しろすなやま shirosunayama), aptly translated as white sand mountain.

Trail below the Shosenkyo Panorama-dai Station

Trail for Mt Shirosuna

I was delighted to get a view of the peak I had been standing on a short while ago, allowing me to appreciate its steep and rugged shape. I had now fallen behind schedule so I retraced my steps to the main trail without a break. It took me just 15 minutes to reach another turn-off, this time to the right. A few seconds later, I reached the Mt Shiro (白山 900m) viewpoint, a minor peak with a view of the South Alps, now partially hidden by clouds, as well as the Kurofuji Volcanic group, its highest peaks wrapped in mist. I continued on my way, following the level path through mixed forest as it hugged the mountain side, the late afternoon gloom gradually increasing.

View of the Kofu Basin on the way to Mt Shirosuna

“Alpine” Scenery near the Top of Mt Shirasuna

I wondered if I’d reach the base before sunset, quite early at this time of the year. I picked up the pace and around 4pm I reached a junction: the Furusato Nature Observation Trail (ふるさと自然観察路) which I had been following since the ropeway went right; however, I went down the left trail, leaving the ridgeline. Interestingly the signage around this point was a lot more polished than before even though I was far from any sightseeing spots. I also saw no other hikers during this section, possibly because most people planned to visit next month when the Autumn colours would be at their peak.

White Sand Rock near the Top of Mt Shirasuna

Mt Rakanji from the Top of Mt Shirosuna

I felt relief when I popped out of the dark forest onto a paved road. About a hundred meters further the trail dived back into the forest, but I could now hear the sound of a busy road in the valley below. At 4h30, I passed through a wildlife gate next to a spooky abandoned building, and arrived back on the Shosenkyo Line Road and Nagatoro Bridge (長潭橋), beyond which was the Shosenkyo Entrance bus stop. Including the one-hour Shrine visit the entire hike had taken 5 hours, and could have been extended with a walk up the gorge at the start.

A Level Trail Hugging the Mountain Side

The Kurofuji Volcanic Group from Mt Shiro

Sunset was still half an hour away but the sun had already vanished behind the mountain ridges casting the valley bottoms into premature darkness. It took just twenty-minutes on a mostly empty bus to reach Yumura Onsen; after a refreshing hot bath, I caught a city bus for the ten-minute ride to Kofu station, from where it was a 90-minute comfortable ride on the limited express train back to Tokyo.

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Okutama Old Road (Highest Point 619m), Okutama Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, October 5, 2025

I had already walked the Okutama Old Road, also known as the Okutama Historical Road, twice before; however, it had been 8 years since my last visit, so I decided to hike it again to refresh my memory of this interesting trail. I would start from Okutama Lake and walk mostly downhill to Okutama station; by doing it in this direction, I could tackle the steeper sections near the lake first, and also get better views of the Tama river valley.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Start of the Hiking Trail (left) Short Uphill Section (right)

Level Section (left) Near the Highest Section (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I would ride the green car on the Ome line from Shinjuku, and then change to a regular car on the Okutama line at Ome station; from Okutama station, it was a short bus ride to the lake. The weather was supposed to be mostly cloudy without rain and temperatures in the low twenties, ideal for some light hiking. I was looking forward to a relaxing, and hopefully spider-free, hike in the mountains west of Tokyo.

Trail before the Rest Spot (left) Road after the Rest Spot (right)

Steps (left) and Forest Section (right) near the End of the Hike

I was delighted to ride a mostly empty bus to Okutama lake, possibly because in this season most hikers prefer to head to higher destinations. After a quick lunch at a picnic table with a view of Okutama Lake and Oguchi Dam, I set off at 12h30. Soon after, I reached the entrance of the “Old Road” (むかし道 mukashi michi), hidden behind the Mizune Parking lot. After carefully crossing the busy Ome-Kaido Avenue, I headed up a steep paved road.

View of Okutama Lake and Ogouchi Dam

The Okutama mountains from the “Old Road” (2012 Photo)

I was startled to feel some raindrops as I reached a fork; I opted for the shorter, right branch, in case it turned into a downpour, which happened in 2017. Fortunately it soon let up, and after passing a bamboo grove and a view of Okutama lake on the right side, I arrived at the start of a hiking trail; this is also where it meets up with the longer, left branch. After a short uphill section, the trail descended steeply through thick forest, but became level after crossing a stream on a moss-covered concrete bridge.

View of the Tama River from the “Old Road” (2012 Photo)

Paved Part of the Okutama Old Road

I had forgotten the first part of the trail was so narrow, hugging a steep mountainside; however, a metal railing on the valley side ensured it could be walked safely. After some ascending, I reached a metal cross at the highest point of today’s hike, also the turnoff for Mt Mutsuishi; beyond this point, the trail descended into the valley; on the way down, I had another glimpse of the Ogouchi dam through a gap in the vegetation.

Some Sun on a Cloudy Day

Shidakura Bridge across Tama River

I was shocked how close the dam still was after one hour of hiking; however from now I’d be following the Tama river, moving in a mostly straight line towards my destination. I eventually reached the end of the trail near a rest spot with picnic benches and momiji trees; I now found myself walking along a paved road, the river at times visible through the tree branches. At 2h30, I passed Shidakura bridge (しだくら橋), the second of two suspended footbridges; I walked to the halfway point although it’s not part of the Old Road.

View of the Tama River from Shidakura Bridge

Walking on a Gravel Road

I enjoyed views of the Tama River looking down from the bridge; I also had views of spiders when looking up through the steel wires supporting the bridge. At 3pm, I passed by a modern, clean bathroom inside a traditional building, courtesy of OPT or Okutama Pikapika Toilet (“pikapika” means “with a sparkle”). In total, I saw three such toilet buildings, each as sparkling clean as the other; apparently they are also in charge of the one next to Okutama station.

Modern Bathroom inside a Traditional Building

Traces of the Old Railway Line

Past a house with a huge firewood stack, I saw remains of the railway that used to run through the valley; it was abandoned 80 years ago after the completion of the present-day road. At a bend in the road, a signpost guided me onto a footpath on the right side; I followed it through tall cedars, down a small valley, across a narrow bridge, and around a rocky outcrop, after which I found myself walking on a stone-paved path.

Footpath near the End of the Hike

Stone-paved Section Near the End of the “Old Road” (2012 photo)

I stepped up the pace as the light was starting to fade quickly on this cloudy day. Shortly after crossing another disused railway section half-hidden by grass, I arrived back at the Ome-Kaido Avenue at 4h30, also the trailhead of the Okutama Old Road. It took another 5 minutes to get to Okutama Station, from where it was a ninety-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

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The Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail Part 2 (highest point 830m), Komoro City, Nagano Prefecture, Saturday, September 27, 2025

I had been looking forward to exploring more of the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail since my hike there nearly one year ago. Originally, I had wanted to go later in Autumn, to enjoy cooler and clearer weather; however, I realised that if I wanted to see the scenery of golden rice fields, I needed to get there before the end of the harvest, roughly the end of September. I had recently acquired a lightweight foldable umbrella that doubled as a parasol, to protect myself from the sun on long road sections, so I felt well equipped to return earlier than planned.

Above the Chikuma River (left) Through a Bamboo Grove (right)

Up a Country Lane (left) In the Shade of Trees (right)

This time, I’d head south from Komoro station, making a wide circle combining the Chikumagahara and Mimakigahara routes, and ending at Aguri no Yu like last time. I had ample time to complete this clockwise loop through the Nagano countryside; however, I already knew that the many views along this panoramic trail would delay me, especially since the weather was supposed to be clear and sunny all day, a perfect Autumn weather according to the weather forecast.

Chikuma River from Modori Bridge

Mt Asama from Modori Bridge

It felt pleasantly cool as I stepped off the train at Komoro station a little after 1030. After picking up some supplies at a nearby convenience store, I ducked into a tunnel under the Shinano railway line and headed down a road into the Chikuma River valley. At a bend in the road, I turned right onto a track partially hidden by vegetation, following a sign for the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (浅間･八ヶ岳パノラマトレイル). At the bottom of a steep staircase, I passed an open-air exhibition of an old water wheel (“suisha“), used for generating electricity from 1919 to 1995.

Mt Asama from Kubo Village

Cliffs above the Chikuma River

I briefly inspected this curious relic from the past, and then turned left onto a small paved road, past Nishiura dam, a modern replacement for the water wheel. I was walking with the Chikuma river on my right, and harvested fields on my left. I wondered if I had missed the harvest completely but marvelled at the interesting shape of the rice bundles, resembling tiny straw huts. At 1130, I crossed the Modori Bridge (もどり橋), from where I had a sweeping view of the entire Asama mountain range, almost entirely clear of clouds. I then headed up a steep road and at the top turned left onto a main road which I left almost immediately for a dirt road alongside a bamboo grove.

Country Lane leading to the Base of the Cliffs

View East towards Karuizawa

I was glad to be walking under the shade of trees, above the cliffs on the south bank of the Chikuma river, as the sun was getting hotter and hotter. I had reached another viewpoint of Mt Asama, just as the noon chime echoed throughout the area. Closer by, I could see the impressive bluffs on the north bank of the river. After passing through Kubo village (久保集落), the path headed uphill steeply and reentered the forest.

Hidden Plateau above Kubo Village

Switchback Path up the bluff

I soon emerged into a kind of hidden plateau at the base of some bluffs. I made a detour to get a closer look, and also happened to get a good view of Karuizawa to the east. I knew I’d have to get above these cliffs but for now the trail headed lazily southwards; around this point I nearly stepped on a snake sunbathing on the hot road. I eventually reached Iwane (岩根) and here the path turned sharply right and uphill again, through a dark bamboo forest.

Closeup Look at the Bluff above Iwane

Yatsugake from Mimaki Plateau

I recoiled in fear as I spotted the webs of the Jorogumo spider strung between the bamboo, its yellow and black owners hanging lazily in the air at head height above the path. Sometimes ducking and sometimes clearing a way with a stick, I quickly reached a switchback path climbing through mixed forest, thankfully free of spiders. One bend took me directly to the base of a huge porous rock face, rising out of the forest. At 1pm, I exited the forest into the sunlit Mimaki Plateau (御牧ヶ原 mimakigahara). Almost immediately I came upon a harvest in progress on the left side.

Mt Asama from Mimaki Plateau

Blue Asama with Yellow and Green Fields

I was delighted to see the rice being harvested, an even rarer sight than the golden rice fields. I continued on my way, now walking between small blue ponds and yellow rice stalks; the outline of Yatsugatake, mostly clear of clouds, was visible against the sun on the south side. After a short descent, I reached Himamu-ike Pond (干間無池), which I had also visited on last year’s hike. Here I left the Chikuma River Trail (千曲川コース) and joined the Mimaki Plateau Trail (御牧ヶ原コース), first heading west and then south through farmed countryside dotted with small blue ponds.

Clouds Reflected in one of the Ponds of Mimaki Plateau

Golden Rice Fields and Blue Autumn Sky

Along the way, I had some superb views of Mt Asama, with an ever-changing scenery of already harvested and yet to be harvested fields, as well as blue rounded ponds, in the foreground. At 2pm, I arrived at the highest point of the hike, a mostly level area above the Prefecture Agricultural University; oddly enough, it was also the location of a driving school. It was also the southernmost point of the hike, and I had another view of Yatsugatake southwards between the hills, as well as the Chichibu mountains to the east. I sat in the grass in the shade of a couple of conifers for a late lunch with a view. After half an hour, I resumed my hike, now heading northwards and downhill, and soon passed another bucolic rice harvest scene.

Harvested Rice Drying on Racks

Drying Rice with Mt Asama in the background

I spent a few minutes observing this seasonal human activity taking place along a narrow valley protected by tall pines on the far side. From my higher vantage point, I could see the various stages of the harvest: the cutting, the bundling and finally drying on racks. I continued on my way and after passing through a tunnel under the Chikuma Viewline, turned left up a slope and soon reached another viewpoint near the crest of a small hill called “viewpoint hill” (展望の丘). To the north was Mt Asama again, the features of its various peaks clearly visible on this fine day.

Lunch Spot under a Couple of Conifers

Lily-covered Maki Pond

For the first time of the day, I had a wide view on the west side: I could see the gentle ridgelines of Northern Yatsugatake, as well as the lower mountains of central Nagano; however the North Alps were hidden in the clouds. It was now 3pm and I had to quicken the pace to stay on schedule. I headed down the other side of the hill, and then turned right onto a bigger road which I followed for a while, down into a small forested river valley dividing the plateau into two halves. After a shorter climb up the other side, I merged with last year’s hike, although from the opposite direction.

Rice Harvest Scene on the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail

Freshly Cut Rice (left) and Drying Rice on Racks (right)

After walking under some dizzyingly tall larches, needles still green in this season, I turned right onto a trail heading downhill towards the Chikuma River Valley, leaving behind the Mimaki Plateau Trail, as well as last year’s route. It ended at a road at a point somewhat below my final destination; however, I noticed another path on the right, running through the woods and parallel to the road. I still had a little way to go so I rushed up it and soon passed a sign for the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail, meaning I was headed in the right direction.

View West towards Northern Yatsugatake

Mt Asama from Viewpoint Hill

I had one more view of the highest peaks of Mt Asama through a gap in the trees on the left side. Soon after, I emerged onto a road where I turned left, and after a few more minutes, arrived at Aguri no Yu just after 4pm. After a refreshing bath with a view of Mt Asama, I called a taxi for the ten-minute ride back to Komori station. It was a short ride on the Koumi line to Saku-daira station where I hopped on the shinkansen for the one-hour ride back to Tokyo.

Green Fields with Mt Asama in the background

View of Mt Asama from near the end of the Hike

This second hike along the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail took five hours, slightly shorter than last year. Although it had less cultural highlights, the views were better. I was also lucky with my timing that allowed me to catch the rice harvest in progress, not to mention the superb weather. Amazingly I saw no other hikers the whole day, maybe because everyone was hiking on Mt Asama and Yatsugatake, and other high-altitude mountains. For now, I’ve completed most of this trail but in the future I’d like to explore more Long Trails in Japan.

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Mt Himekami (1123m), Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture, Sunday, July 20, 2025

I wanted to do one last hike before my summer break. I decided to head up to Tohoku, northeast Japan, hoping it would be cooler than the Kanto area. I had been wanting to climb this 200 famous mountain since my last visit to Iwate five years ago. It promised 360° views from the summit on a clear day and some beautiful forest on the way up and down. Looking at my map, I saw I could take the most direct route up, and if time allowed, take a slightly longer route on the descent.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tohoku shinkansen to Morioka, and then change to the local Iwate Galaxy Railway for the short ride to Koma station. There, I’d call a taxi to get to the parking near the trailhead. Since the shinkansen was reserved seating only, I purchased an e-ticket for my mobile Suica in advance. The weather was supposed to be sunny with temperatures around 30° at the base and 20° at the top. I was looking forward to the views and hoped the tree shade would keep me cool on the way up.

Cedars at the Start of the Hike (left) Log Steps Halfway up (right)

Rocky Path near the Top (left) Larches at the end of the Hike (right)

After a 2-hour lightning speed trip under mostly sunny skies, I arrived in Morioka just after 11am. It felt quite warm as I waited on the platform for the excitingly named Galaxy Railway (銀河鉄道) train. The ride to Koma station (好摩駅) itself was quite normal except for the enchanting flute theme that announced each station. After a 10-minute wait under the boiling sun for my taxi, and a 20-minute ride through the charming Iwate countryside, I reached the large but mostly empty parking lot near the Ipponsugi-enchi Campground (一本杉園地キャンプ場), a little after noon.

Impressive Clouds above Mt Iwate from Koma Station

Start of the Ipponsugi Trail

After getting ready, I walked up a grassy slope to some benches at the edge of the forest, the start of the Ipponsugi Trail (一本杉コース). Turning around, I had a startling view of Mt Iwate under dark menacing clouds. After passing an intersection with a forest road, I found myself walking along a narrow dirt path between tall cedars at 1230, happy to be in their shade. As the path started to climb gently, I reached a sign for Ipponsugi (一本杉) a solitary giant cedar, a few meters off the trail. After admiring this giant of nature, I continued on my way.

Rocky Section near the Top of the Trail

View of Mt Iwate near the Top of Mt Himekami

I soon arrived at the start of a series of steep log steps, a tough slog on what was turning out to be quite a hot day. I took my first break a little before 1pm at the 5th station (五合目), a level area half way to the top in distance, but only one third in elevation gain. The next section, covered in roots and rocks, was harder and more slippery to walk, and I was grateful when the steps reappeared further along. I spotted the occasional pale white trunks of birches (シラカンバ白樺), a common mountain tree in northern Japan. Half an hour later, I reached another level area at the 7th station (七合目) where I settled on a large rock for the second break of the climb.

Huge Cloud Floating through the Sky

Boulder Hopping Section Close to the Summit

For the first time of the day, I felt a breeze blow through the trees, helping me to cool off before the final summit push. The rocks on the trail became bigger and bigger, forcing me to use my hands to haul myself over the largest ones. I suddenly emerged from the vegetation, blue sky with wisps of white cloud overhead. Standing on a flat rock, I had a wide view of Mt Iwate and Mt Hachimantai to the west. Just beyond, the trail split into two: the left fork went directly to the summit through the forest; however, I choose the panoramic right fork, hopping boulder to boulder, till it merged with the Jonai Trail (城内コース) on the southwest side.

View Northeast from the Top of the Ipponsugi Trail

View of Mt Iwate and Mt Hachimantai from Mt Himekami

It had been a while since I had done such an adventurous trail and I had to watch out for the gaps between the flat slabs of rock. Once I was safely back on a proper trail, it took just a couple of minutes to reach the summit of Mt Himekami (姫神山ひめかみさん himekami-san), meaning “princess god”. The view was stunning in all directions although I could only confidently identify Mt Hayachine to the south. Since it was past 2pm, I found a good rock to sit on for a late lunch with a view.

View South of Wind Turbines and Mt Hayachine (left)

View Southeast from Mt Himekami

I wanted to stay longer to admire the stunning view, as well as enjoy the spectacular clouds floating through the sky, but I had to allow enough time to catch my shinkansen for the return (also reserved). At 3pm, I dived back into the forest, down the Kowasaka Trail (こわ坂コース) on the northwest side. The first section headed down quite steeply, with ropes attached to the side for safety, but fortunately rock-free. I saw perhaps a dozen people on the ascent but passed no one on the descent. I enjoyed the solitude, making just a little noise in case a bear was lurking in the woods.

View East from the Top of Mt Himekami

Last View of Mt Iwate before Heading down

The surrounding forest was just as beautiful on this side, and lower down, I found myself walking through larches, a nice change from the cedars and birches. At 4pm, I reached the trail entrance where I turned left onto a paved road. The final section is one reason people avoid the Kowasaka trail (the other being it is less well-maintained), but it’s only a fifteen-minute walk back to the start of the Ipponsugi trail entrance. Along the way I was startled by a snake on the road; a closer inspection revealed that it was dead, perhaps hit by a car, but it was in perfect condition and extremely lifelike even in death.

Mt Iwate against the Late Afternoon Sun

The Prince God of Mt Himekani?

I was delighted to come upon a tube channeling ice cold water close to the end of the hike. After dousing my face and head several times, I called this morning’s taxi company, asking them to pick me up. I got dropped off at Koma station a little before 5pm, and half an hour later, was at Morioka Station with one hour to spare before my train back to Tokyo. After sampling some local Japanese sake from Kikizakeya, I boarded the shinkansen for the comfortable 2-hour ride back home.

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Mt Amari (1731) & Mt Okuamari (1843m), Nirasaki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, July 13, 2025

I climbed these two mountains almost 7 years ago. Back then, the weather had been overcast and so I was hoping to get some better views this time. With a starting point above 1500 meters, it seemed like the ideal place to escape the relentless summer heat. Finally, I was betting that the long access via a winding mountain road would thin the holiday crowds. Since it was on the short side, I decided to combine it with a pre-hike soba lunch at Kamikoji and a post-hike hot spring bath at Hakusan Onsen.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express from Shinjuku to Kofu, and then drive a share car to the parking lot near the trail entrance. The weather was supposed to be sunny, turning cloudy in the afternoon; temperatures would be over 30° in the Kofu basin but about 20° in the mountains. I hoped I’d be able to do everything I’d planned for the day and that I’d get a view of Mt Fuji, although my chances were slim according to the When to See Mt Fuji site.

Walkway near the Summit (left) Trail past Mt Amari (right)

Near the End of the Hike (left) Blue Sky at the End of the Day (right)

Thankfully it was a short walk, mostly in the shade, from the Station to the share car. After a one-hour drive, I arrived at Kojiro (上小路) at 1pm, where I enjoyed a delicious zaru-soba with a side of tempura. The onsen for the return was right next to the soba restaurant so it’d be easy to find. At 2pm, I got back behind the wheel, and half an hour later, pulled into the Hirogawara parking lot (広河原駐車場 1643m). I saw few cars meaning I could expect few people on the trail. It felt hot under the sun while I got ready, perhaps another reason for the nearly deserted parking area.

View of the Kofu Basin and Mt Fuji from the Start of the Hike

Trail past the Open Shelter

I felt more comfortable once I started up the trail, tall trees providing welcome shade. Very soon, I arrived at an open shelter, “azumaya“, with a view of the Kofu basin to the north; on the east side was the summit of Mt Fuji poking through the clouds. It was a pleasant surprise since being far away had actually increased my chances of seeing Japan’s most famous mountain. It was already past 3pm so after enjoying the view, I set off again. A short, easy climb up some log steps brought me to a plateau with wooden walkways, a spot famous for its pink Rhododendron (“tsutsuji“) in June. However in mid-July, I found myself walking through green bushes, another reason for the lack of people.

Log Steps leading to the Rhododendron Plateau

Just Green Bushes in this Season

I suddenly felt a cool breeze in this open space. Directly ahead was Mt Houou, a hundred famous mountain, dark clouds appearing from behind and threatening to invade the whole sky. I stepped up the pace, wondering if rain might follow. After another short climb, I arrived at the top of Mt Amari (甘利山あまりやま amari-yama), a 100 famous mountain of Yamanashi, my second time there. I had a wide view of the Kofu Basin surrounded by the Oku-Chichibu mountains. In the foreground was the plateau I had just crossed, neatly divided in two by the walkway. After a short break, I continued my hike. A little descending, brought me to the start of a switchback trail leading up the steep mountain side.

View of the Plateau and its Walkway

Blue Sky on the Trail for Mt Okuamari

As I gained altitude, I often turned around to admire the views to the south, now including the rounded top of Mt Amari, its north side covered in forest, as well as Mt Kushigata. Here and there, I spotted the pale trunk of an Erman birch, “dakekanba“, which mostly grows above 1500 meters. Looking up, I was glad to see mostly blue sky, the thick grey clouds seemingly confined to the nearby South Alps. Just before 4pm, I turned right at in a fork in the trail, and a few minutes later, arrived at the top of Mt Okuamari (奥甘利山おくあまりやま okuamari-yama) for the second time. It was surrounded by trees except on the southeast side where I had a view of Mt Fuji, almost completely hidden by clouds.

The Gentle Outline of Mt Kushigata

Mt Fuji Disappearing behind the Clouds

After observing a ladybug toddle along the top of a log seat, I headed back to the fork: the left branch continues t0 the next peak, Mt Sentoboshi (千頭星山 2138m), also a 100 famous mountain of Japan, about an hour uphill. I had climbed it back in 2015, and had no desire to visit it again, since it was completely in the trees. Thirty minutes later, just before the summit of Mt Amari, I turned left onto an alternative trail back to the parking. I headed down a grassy path, stopping once to observe a daddy long-legs spider sitting upside down on a tree branch and a second time to check out some bright green “old man’s beard” lichen hanging from the branches of a larch. At 5pm, I arrived back at the parking after a satisfying two hour and a half hike.

Looking back at Mt Amari

Trail near the End of the Hike

I was tempted to hang around to enjoy the now cool mountain air and see the night view of the Kofu basin but I felt it would be wiser to head back while there was still daylight. Half an hour later, I reached Hakusan Onsen (白山温泉). After a relaxing bath, I drove back to Kofu where I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Shinjuku. It’d be nice to return one day to see the tsutsuji in full bloom, especially since a seasonal jumbo taxi runs from Nirasaki station to the parking lot. I’d also like to stay in at the Mt Amari Green Lodge (甘利山グリーンロッジ) to see the night view.