Tag: Short Hike

Mt Mizusawa (1194m), Shibukawa City, Gunma Prefecture, Monday, June 5th, 2023

I had a chance to go hiking on a weekday, so for once, I wanted to visit a popular mountain. I decided to redo one of the peaks on Mt Haruna, first climbed during Golden Week 2016, via a different route. Back then, it was a short roundtrip off the main trail between Mt Soma, the 2nd highest peak, and Ikaho Hot Spring. This time, I would start from Mizusawa-dera Temple, on the east side of the volcano, and finish again at Ikaho Onsen, since I could get a hot spring bath before heading back. I would take the shinkansen to Takasaki station, and there catch a bus to the temple, my first time to use this bus line. For the return, I could take a bus to Shibukawa station, from where I could catch the Kusatsu Limited Express for Ueno, also my first time to return this way. The weather was supposed to be sunny with some clouds, warm but not too hot, typical for this time of the year. I was looking forward to my first visit to Mt Haruna in nearly 4 years, and what would probably be my last hike before the start of the rainy season.

Hiking on Mt Haruna 榛名山

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View of Mt Komochi (left) and Mt Akagi (right) from near the Summit

Side view of the Steep climb up Mt Mizusawa

It was already very warm as I got off the nearly empty bus at 10am, after a one hour ride from Takasaki. I quickly walked past some Udon restaurants and up a steep staircase. I was impressed by the massive Buddhist gate leading to the 1300 year-old Mizusawa-dera 水沢寺, quite busy with sightseers despite the mid-morning heat. I sat on a bench next to a ancient cedar and got ready for my hike. At 10h30, I ducked under a small red Shinto gate and climbed another steep staircase, as chanting from some Buddhist ceremony drifted up from below.

Walking under Towering Cedars (left) Climbing Log Steps (right)

Steps Difficulty Level 2 (left) Steps Difficulty Level 3 (right)

I followed a path in the shade of towering cedars before finally reaching the start of the trail. At first the logs steps were easy to climb, but they gradually got more chaotic as I reached the steepest part of the climb. However, it never got so tough that I couldn’t enjoy the green spring forest. Just past 11h30, I reached the first viewpoint of the day, on the east side, near a row of small Buddhist statues.

Transition between Levels 1 and 2

Viewpoint near the Buddhist Statues

I had a bird’s-eye view of the wide valley between Mt Haruna and Mt Akagi. On the left side, I could also see Mt Onoko (climbed in January 2016), Mt Komochi, and behind it, Mt Hodaka (climbed in September 2015). After a short break, I continued my hike. Although I passed several people on the way up, I still had long stretches of the trail to myself. I soon passed another viewpoint on the south side, the flat Kanto plan stretching away into the distance; after a short scramble up a rocky section, equipped with ropes for safety, I reached one more viewpoint on the north side, near a pair of tiny shrines.

The Kanto Plain Stretching South

Looking down at the Shoulder

In the distance, I was surprised I could make out Mt Sennokura and Mt Tanigawa, still wearing their winter coats, the haze having already returned just two days after heavy rain. A little further, I reached the top of Mt Mizusawa (水沢山 みずさわやま mizusawa-yama), its prominence barely noticeable along the ridgeline, but with a spectacular 360° panorama. Directly ahead on the west side, I could see the highest peaks of Mt Haruna. To the southwest, were the Chichibu mountains, and to the southeast were Mt Kusatsu-Shirane, Mt Shirasuna and Mt Naeba (climbed in June 2015), its white, flat peak only just visible. It was past noon, so I sat down for some lunch.

The Chichibu Mountains on the Southwest Side

The Highest Peaks of Mt Haruna

After I had my full of the spectacular view on this sunny day, I set off again, around 1h30. After some descending along the forested, rocky ridge, I reached a paved road, and there, turned right along the path for “Tsutsuji-ga-oka”, or Azalea hill, although they were now out of season and no flowers could be seen. I soon reached an open shelter before another road crossing, where I had an impressive side view of the peak I had just climbed. I continued along the easy-to-walk trail, and at 2h30, arrived at the “Tokimeki Deck”, a wooden observation deck near the top of the Haruna Ropeway.

View of Mt Akagi from the Tokimeki Observation Deck

View of Mt Mizusawa from the Tokimeki Observation Deck

I enjoyed this view more than during my two previous visits, since not only had I now crossed the entire Mt Mizusawa ridge on the south side, but also many of the other peaks in the area. Looking north, I could see the hot spring town of Ikaho Onsen, nestled at the base of the mountain. I skipped the ropeway and followed the Fureai no Michi for the last part of the hike. At 3pm, I reached Ikako Shrine, at the top of the famous stone steps that cross the entire town. Almost immediately, I found a hot spring accepting day trippers. After a relaxing bath, I boarded the bus for the short ride to Shibukawa station, where I caught the limited express for the 100-minute comfortable ride back to Tokyo.

Trail past Tsutsuji-ga-oka (left) Staircase leading to Haruna-jinja (right)

Looking down at Ikaho Onsen from Tokimeki Deck

I was glad I could squeeze in this short hike, around 4 hours, just before the start of the rainy season. Although many people were hiking up and down the east side of Mt Mizusawa, there were a lot less people on the west side, so the second half of the hike was more peaceful. I’d like to return in the future to try some more hikes on Mt Haruna, especially now that I discovered the bus from Takasaki and the limited express from Shibukawa; however, whatever route I choose, I am sure I’ll always end with a hot spring bath at Ikaho Onsen.

Watch a Video of the Mt Mizusawa Hike

Watch a Slideshow of more Photos of the Mt Mizusawa Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on Youtube

Mt Akaguna (1523m), Kanna Town, Gunma Prefecture, Sunday, May 28, 2023 [Mikabo Super Forest Road]

I had been wanting to climb this mountain for a several years, but couldn’t figure out a way to do it as a day trip by bus; even using a share car to reach the trailhead at the Hayataki car park meant a long hike combined with a long drive. In the end, I decided to approach via the “Mikabo Super Rindo”, a 67km forest road that follows the ridgeline from east to west, and passes just below the summit, on the north side. Looking at my hiking map, I noticed I could return via a logging road road on the south side, and thus do a loop hike; it seemed a bit adventurous, requiring me to reply on my GPS. I would take the Takasaki line to Honjo station, where I would switch to a car, and then drive to Shiozawa Pass; I would return via the same route. The weather was supposed to be cloudy most of the day; since no rain was forecast, I still hoped to get some good views. I was looking forward to doing some more exploring of one of the less accessible hiking areas around Tokyo.

First View of Mt Akaguna from the Hiking Trail

Hiking through Green Forest below the Summit

The weather was definitely cloudy as I got off the train at Honjo station around 9am, dashing any hope of sun. Despite the gloomy skies, I enjoyed the drive through Onishi Town and past Kanna Lake, places I had visited on previous hikes. I passed the trail entrances for Mt Mikabo and Mt Tetemiezu, reflecting on how the weather had also been poor on those two hikes. After Kanna Town, I turned right, onto a smaller road leading up the mountain, and parked my car at Shiozawa Pass (塩沢峠), near the junction with the Mikabo Super Rindo (御荷鉾スーパー林道).

The Mikabo Super Forest Road near Mt Akaguna

Green Path and Pink Flowers

I enjoyed the wide view across the valley on the south side: I could see the rounded top of Mt Tetemiezu and the twin peaks of Mt Futago, both on the border of Gunma and Saitama; behind Mt Futago, the summit ridge of Mt Ryokami was hidden in the clouds. I set off at 11h30, and and soon reached the turnoff for the “super-rindo” on the left side. I was glad I had opted to leave my car at the pass; although I could have parked closer to the summit, this gravel road was better suited to walking, bicycling or motorcycling. At noon, I arrived at the trail entrance on the left, as well as an open shelter with a viewpoint.

Light Green Above (left) Light Green Below (right)

Following a Narrow Ridge (left) Walking among the Birches (right)

The view of the Kanto Plain to the east was completely in the clouds; I could only imagine what it looked like on a clear day. I followed the up and down ridge trail westwards, through light green forest; occasionally the vroom of a motorcycle interrupted the background noise of buzzing insects, a reminder of the nearby forest road, mostly hidden by the trees. At the top of a grassy slope, I stumbled upon a cluster of bright red azalea (“tsutsuji“), always a nice surprise, even though I had seen hundreds the previous week.

View of the Top of Mt Akaguna from the Forest Road

Pylon next to the Forest Road (left) Surrounded by Green (right)

I reached the best viewpoint of the day just before 1pm, as I passed through an area clear of trees on the south side. The clouds had thinned and the sun was now shining on the rolling, forested mountains; Mt Ryokami’s ragged ridgetop was now visible; a power line stretched down into the valley, suspended between giant pylons, creating a dramatic effect from where I stood; directly ahead, at the end of a long ridge, was the tree-covered top of Mt Akaguna. Past a pylon, the trail merged with the forest road, but after a short distance, headed up the ridgeline again, along the East Route (東コース).

Power Line Diving into the Valley

Ridgeline Leading to the Summit of Mt Akaguna

This was by far the nicest section of today’s hike, the trail alternating between level and gently climbing portions, giving me ample time to take in the surrounding scenery. After a steep section, the trail merged with the North Route (北コース); a few minutes later, I reached the summit of Mt Akaguna (赤久縄山 あかぐなやま akaguna-yama), a Gunma and a Kanto 100 famous mountain. It was about 1h30, so I sat on a low bench for some lunch; although there was no view, looking up, I could see a huge patch of blue sky. At 2pm, I headed back down the West Route, and then followed the Forest Road till the start of the alternate trail back to Shiozawa Pass.

The Usual Hiking Trail is along this Ridge

Walking through a Green Wonderland

It was a challenge to find the main logging road after leaving the Super-Rindo, even with using the GPS on my phone, as many minor offshoots crisscrossed the mountain side. I was relieved when I finally reached one with a signpost for Shiozawa Pass, a little before 3pm. After an easy, slightly downhill stroll, I was back at my parked car, less than half an hour later. As it was still early, I drove a short way to the start of the trail of Mt Odoke (オドケ山). It took 30 minutes to complete the loop hike; although the summit was in the trees, I was impressed by the fancy new, bright red signposts. At 4pm, I set off for the return drive, arriving back at Honjo station just before 6pm.

Walking back along the Mikabo Super Forest Road

One of the many Logging Roads in the Area

I was glad to be able to check this mountain off my to-climb list after so many years, even though I had to settle for a 3h30 hike, about half the time it would have taken from the trailhead at the base; maybe one day I’ll return to do the whole hike, although it would require an overnight stay. I’d also like to explore more of the Mikabo Super Forest Road, on foot or by bicycle, as there are many viewpoints along the way. Hopefully I can do this on a blue sky day.

Watch a Video of the Mt Akaguna Hike

See a Slideshow of More Photos of Mt Akaguna

Ido Marsh (1278m), Kanuma City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday, May 21, 2023

I discovered this spot in Mae-Nikko on a hike in December 2018, and since then, had wanted to visit again, but in a different season. However, as it took 4 hours of uphill walking to reach from the closest bus stop at Furumine Shrine, this time I decided to go by car; I could park at the Mae-Nikko Highland lodge, just a short distance from the trail entrance. As the loop of the marsh was relatively short, I also decided to combine it with lunch at a famous soba restaurant in the area. I would take the Utsunomiya line to Oyama station, and there change to the Ryoma line for the short ride to Tochigi station, where I would switch to a share car. It was supposed to be a sunny and warm spring day, and so I was looking forward to an easy, relaxing hike in a secluded area deep in the mountains of Tochigi.

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View of Ido Marsh from the South Side

Walkway Through the Marsh

I drove for about an hour under grey skies, reaching Kamiyama, a soba restaurant situated at the end of a valley, far from any populated areas. Despite its remote location, a line of people was already waiting outside at 11h30; it took nearly an hour before I was seated. Fortunately it was worth the wait: I enjoyed some of the best soba I had ever had. At 1pm, I drove back down the valley, and then up a parallel one towards Kasuo Pass (粕尾峠), hoping that the sun would come out soon.

Gravel Path Through Mae-Nikko Highland

Bright Red Azalea on the way to Ido Marsh

Mist blocked the view in every direction, as I parked the car at the Mae-Nikko Highland Lodge’前日光ハイランドロッジ) parking just after 2pm; I was grateful that I had had clear weather on my last visit. I strolled along a gravel road, pastures on each side, no cows in sight though; after passing an open shelter, I arrived at the trail entrance on the left side around 3pm.

Walkway Leading to Godan-no-Taki Falls

Tsutsuji Flowers of Every Colour

I was stunned by the azelea (tsutsuji) in full bloom; until now I had never realised that they existed in such a wide range of colors, from white to pink to bright red. The trail soon started to descend; after crossing a stream, I had my first glimpse of the day of Ido Marsh (井戸湿原 ido-shitsugen), next to another open shelter. It felt like I had entered a colourful, magical fantasyland, and I could only imagine what this fantastic scenery would be like on a sunny day.

View of Ido Marsh from the South Side

Walkway Crossing the Marsh

I was surprised by how few people were on the trail, as I made my way clockwise around the marsh. Around 3h30, I reached Godan-no-taki (五段の滝), a small waterfall with 5 “steps”, and the lowest point of today’s hike. After a short climb, I reached a section free of trees on the south side of the marsh, from where I had some best views of the day. At 4pm, I reached a wooden walkway cutting across the marshland; I decided to head back along it, rather than continue to the Zoonohana observation deck (象の鼻展望台 meaning the elephant’s trunk) as no would view would be had today.

A Secret Spot of Mae-Nikko

Most of the Hike is on Walkways (left) Entrance of Ido Marsh (right)

I was able to enjoy the splendour of the azaleas again, as I did the trail in reverse, sometimes passing through actual tunnels of flowers, the surrounding mist enhancing the magical atmosphere. At 4h30, I was back at the parking lot, my car being one of the last left. I decided to return via a different route, past Furumine shrine, and was rewarded with a view of a monkey walking near the road; on the way up, I had also spotted a racoon crossing the road. At 6pm, I was back at Tochigi station, from where it was a one hour ride back to Ikebukuro with the Tobu Revaty limited express train.

Nearing the End of the Hike

Entrance to the “Azalea Tunnel“

At around two hours, this was one of my shorter hikes, and even if I had included the observation desk, it would not have been much longer. Even though the mist was in, hiding the view of the Oku-Nikko mountains, the flowers in full bloom made the 3 hour trip each way worthwhile. I’d like to return in the future to do the “fureai no michi” trail that passes through the area, as well as check out another local soba restaurant.

Watch a Video of the Ido Marsh Hike

See the video of the hike on Youtube

See a Slideshow with more Pictures of the Ido Marsh Hike

Sayama Hills (Highest Point 194m), Tokyo & Saitama Prefectures, Tuesday, May 9, 2023 [Nawatake Forest Road]

I had visited the forested hills around Sayama Lake earlier in the year, but felt like exploring the area some more; I decided to do a morning hike since the parks sit comfortably within the city. I would start from a prominent hill on the north side, then follow a forest road leading to the south side, a shortcut for the perimeter road I followed in January; from there, I would go up and down some hills in the southwest corner of the park; finally, I would leave the hills on the west side, hopefully reaching a bus stop by noon. It was supposed to be fine spring day, sunny with comfortable temperatures; it had rained hard the day before, so the air would be crisp and clear. As before, I would take the local Seibu line to Kotesashi station, and then a bus along the north side of the lake; I could catch the same bus back from the end of the line. I was looking forward to an easy morning hike through a nature park within Tokyo.

Hiking in the Sayama Natural Park 都立狭山自然公園

May 2024 update: the Nawatake Forest Road is closed till at least 2026 due to fallen trees from typhoons in 2023

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Trail Leading to Akasaka

Top of Hira Hill

It was still pleasantly cool when I got off the bus at 9am next to a small shrine shrine under some cedars. After passing Kinsenji Temple, I turned left onto a lane leading up a hill, called Hira Hill (比良の丘 ひらのおか 155m), next to Midori no Mori Nature Park. The flat top area is used for farming, and walking among the fields, it felt like I had suddenly been transported to the countryside. It was now 9h30 so I had breakfast at a table under a huge Japanese Bird Cherry, probably a nice place for a picnic during the sakura season.

Signboard for Totoro’s Forest

Flower Field at the Top of Hira Hill

I was impressed by the serenity of this spot so close to the city. Nearby was a signboard for Totoro’s Forest #13, # 18 and #49. At the moment, there are 57 off these protected parcels of forestland. To the north, I had a view of the city between two wooded areas; on the south side, Sayama lake was hidden behind a forested ridge. This whole area of hills and forests surrounding the lake is known as the Sayama Hills (狭山丘陵), one of the main features of the Musashino Plateau. I soon set off in the direction of the lake, heading down a faint footpath, and entering the forest, past a bridge across a creek.

Cherry Tree on Hira Hill (left) Forest Path to the Perimeter Road (right)

Walking the Nawatake Forest Road

I was stunned by the beauty of the forest, enhanced by the play of sunlight on the light green leaves, as I made my way up a switchback path. A little before 1oam, I reached the top of the ridge and the Sayama Perimeter road. I turned right, and after a few minutes, arrived at the gated entrance of the Nawatake Forest road on the left side. After passing through the door on the side, I made my way along the gravel path, surrounded by thick forest and silence, punctuated by intermittent birdsong.

A Green Corridor Within the City

South Side of the Sayama Perimeter Road

It felt like I had entered a secret section of the park: I saw few other people, birdwatchers with huge cameras, walking under the shade of trees crowding in on each side. Past Nawatake bridge (縄竹橋), where I had glimpse of the lake on the left, the path headed gently uphill for a while; less than half an hour later, I arrived at another gate, where the forest road rejoined the Perimeter Road. I soon ducked down a path on the right side, and at a parking lot, turned right onto a wooden walkway along Akasaka-yato (赤坂谷戸), a marshy area at the bottom of a valley.

Path Leading to Akasaka

Walking in the Akasaka Valley (left) Walking Down the Western Side (right)

It felt like I was walking through a hidden valley, lush vegetation on both sides. After some ups and downs, I arrived at Satoyama-minka (里山民家), a recreated traditional farmhouse from the Edo era, at the edge of the forest. It was past 11am, and I was behind schedule, so I skipped a visit, and headed up a charming valley, filled with paddy fields, and frogs, judging from the croaking noises. After a short climb through forest, I reached the observatory at the top of Mt Rokudo, merging with my previous hike. Heading west, I passed the triangulation point, and soon turned left onto a path down the hill side.

Viewpoint of the Okutama Mountains

End of the Hike at Takane

I arrived at a viewpoint of the Okutama mountains, the outlook partially obscured by trees, but I could still make out Mt Kawanori in the middle. After descending a log staircase, I reached the Takane residential area at the base of the hill, and after walking along a road for a short while, made it to the bus stop at Miyadera-Nishi just before noon. The hike had taken 3 hours as planned, although I had to speed up the pace at the end. I’d definitely like to return in the autumn to explore more trails, as well as visit the Satoyama Farmhouse.

See a video of the Sayama Hills Hike

See the video of the hike on Youtube

Mt Usuiri (421m), Mt Kannokura (344m) & Mt Sekison (344m), Higashi-Chichibu Village & Ogawa Town, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, April 29, 2023

I wanted to take advantage of the comfortable spring weather to do a short hike close to Tokyo. I had already climbed Mt Kannokura and Mt Sekison in 2016, going up via Tennou Pond, and then down past Kitamuki-fudo, both on the north side. Looking at my hiking map, I saw I could approach them again via a different route: along the ridge on the west side, and then head back down on the south side, creating a slightly longer hike. I would take a bus from Ogawamachi station on the Tobu line to a stop close to the trail entrance; from the end of the hike, I could catch the same bus back from a stop closer to the station. The weather was supposed to be overcast with sun from time to time, and so I was looking forward to some easy hiking near home.

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View north of the Kanto Plain Near Mt Usuiri

Mt Sekison from Mt Kannokura (June 2016)

Grey clouds hung overhead as I got off the bus near the Higashi-Chichibu Village Hall a little after 10h30. After getting ready, I made my way to a stone Shinto gate and staircase leading to Okusawa Shrine, which I reached a little after 11am. It was surrounded by bamboo, but on the left side, I found the trail entrance, marked by a light blue metallic signpost.

Trail leading up to Mt Usuiri

Near the top of Mt Usuiri (left) On the way to Mt Kannokura (right)

I was excited to find a new hiking trail so close to Tokyo. The path climbed steadily through mixed forest; shortly before noon, I arrived at the summit of Mt Usuiri (臼入山 うすいりやま usuiriyama). Through the trees on the west side, I had a partial view of the ridgeline between Mt Oogiri and Mt Toya in eastern Chichibu. After a short break, I followed the trail through the cedars, down the east side of the summit.

Looking back at Mt Usuiri

View North from a Clearing past Mt Usuiri

I reached the first good viewpoint of the day about half an hour later. It was a deforested area next to a road over a pass. The clouds had dissipated and blue sky was visible again. On the north side, I could see the long ridge extending east beyond Mt Kanetsukido. I sat down on some tree trunks for some lunch in the sun and with a view. At 1pm, I set off again, crossing the road and up a short steep slope.

View North of Chichibu Past Mt Usuiri

View of Mt Sekison from Mt Kannokura

It felt very peaceful as I followed the up and down ridgeline trail, completely in the trees. At 1h30, reached the junction with my previous hike. From there, it was a short climb to the top of Mt Kannokura (官ノ倉山 かんのくらやま kannokura-yama). The clouds had reappeared and the view wasn’t as good as during my last visit. On the north side, I could see the Chichibu mountains and the Kanto Plain; directly ahead was the rounded peak of today’s final summit.

View North of Chichibu from Mt Kannokura

View of Chichibu and the Kanto Plain from Mt Kannokura

After a short descent, followed by an equally short ascent, I reached the top of Mt Sekison (石尊山 せきそんさん sekison-san) around 2pm. The view on the north side was similar to before, but now, I also had a view of Ogawa Town to the south. There were more hikers here so I quickly moved on. On my last hike, I had continued along a trail past the summit. This time, I retraced my steps a short way, and took a path heading down on the left side; although it wasn’t properly signposted, the trail was in good condition.

View of Ogawa Town from Mt Sekison

Hiking Down from Mt Sekison

Half way down, I passed through what seemed like a hidden valley: a grassy, flat area surrounded by trees, only the blue sky visible overhead. It was an interesting spot that wasn’t marked on the map. A short way beyond, I passed the ruins of an old fort, its access unfortunately closed off for some reason. I then descended a narrow valley with many Irises (“shaga”) along the way, and emerged onto a road just before 3h30. The bus stop was a short distance away; once back at Ogawamachi station, I caught the express train for the one hour ride to Ikebukuro.

A Hidden Valley on the Way Down from Mt Sekison

Easy Hiking Near the End of the Hike

I was glad to redo these mountains via a different route although the weather wasn’t as good as the first time, when I could see as far as Mt Akagi and Mt Haruna. Since it’s less than 4 hours, it’s a really short hike that can’t be stretched any longer without heading up another ridgeline; going up and down the route on the north side is even shorter, less than 2 hours. Next time, it might be interesting to head up in the winter for a clearer view, and also check out the nearby Michi no Eki, Washi-no-sato, as well as a local soba shop.

See a Video of the Mt Usuiri, Mt Kannokura and Mt Sekison Hike

See the video of the hike on Youtube

See a Slideshow of Some More Pictures of the Mt Sekison Hike

Mt Usuiri from Mt Kannokura (June 2016)

East Chichibu from Mt Kannokura (June 2016)

Mt Kuro (798m), Kannami Town and Atami City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Sunday, April 9, 2023

I found out about this peak along the Izu skyline while researching my trip to Shimoda, and resolved to climb it on a future hike. Looking at my map, I saw I could traverse from west to east, starting from the side closest to Mishima city, and ending on the Atami side. It seemed like a relatively short hike, but I knew the views would be amazing on a clear weather day. I would take the shinkansen to Atami, then transfer to the Tokaido line for a couple of stops to Kannami station, and there board a Tokai bus to a stop just a short distance on foot from the trailhead. At the end, I could catch a bus back to Atami station from near the trail entrance. The forecast called for blue skies all day, and so I was looking forward to some Mt Fuji views along a relatively easy hike.

Hiking in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park

富士箱根伊豆国立公園

View between Kori Pond and the Mt Kuro Viewpoint

Bench with a view close to the Mt Kuro Viewpoint

I enjoyed the view of the the cherry blossoms in full bloom while I waited for the bus at Kannami station. After a short ride, I got off at a stop in the middle of the fields, opposite an “honor system” vegetable stand, and after getting ready, set off along quiet country lanes, a little before 11am. I was in high spirits, excited to explore an area I had never been to before.

View of the Izu Skyline from near the Tanna Fault

Cherry Blossoms in Full Bloom near the Trail Entrance

On my left, I had a view of the green, undulating ridgeline along which ran the Izu skyline and which I would soon be climbing; behind me, was Mt Fuji, still wearing its snowy winter coat. I soon passed through Tanna Fault park (丹那断層公) commemorating a massive earthquake that hit the area nearly 100 years ago, a sobering reminder of nature destructive power.

Green Meadows and White Volcanoes

Sun & New Green (left) Tall Cedars & Shade (right)

Later, I passed some green meadows, reminding me of Switzerland, except for the solitary yaezakura (“double-layered cherry blossom tree”) in the foreground and Mt Fuji in the background. At 11h30, I reached the trail entrance, and after climbing through mixed forest, towering cedars, and finally a bamboo grass tunnel, I reached Kori pond (氷ヶ池), located under a curve of the Izu skyline.

Rocks on the Trail (left) Through the Bamboo Tunnel (right)

First Glimpse of the Summit

I gazed in wonder at the magical view of Mt Fuji rising above the pond. After a short break, I made my way back along the pond side to an intersection passed previously, and then up a steep path, equipped with rope for safety. The bamboo grass was much shorter now, and a panoramic view of the entire area was slowly emerging all around me. I turned around frequently to admire the view of Hakone volcano on the north side.

Mt Fuji and Kori Pond

Trail Alongside Kori Pond

At 1pm, I reached the best view of the day: a single bench just a few minutes away from the Mt Kuro Second Viewpoint (玄岳第二展望台), which I had visited by car in the winter. Directly ahead was Mt Fuji, with Mt Ashitaka on its left, and Mt Hakone on its right; beyond was Suruga bay and the Minami Alps. Looking down, I could see the dark green lowlands stretch all the way to Numazu City.

View of Hakone Volcano above Kori Pond

View of Mt Fuji, Mt Ashitaka (center) and the Numazu Alps (left)

I waited for a break in the procession of roaring motorbikes before quickly crossing the skyline, and then proceeded up the final climb. As I made my way up the grassy, rounded summit, the view gradually opened up on the south side, and I could now see the Numazu Alps and the mountainous interior of Izu peninsula, culminating in Mt Amagi. At 1h30, I reached the flat top of Mt Kuro (玄岳 くろたけ kurotake), a Shizuoka 100 famous mountain.

Final Climb to the Summit

Looking Back at the Izu Skyline and Atami Resort

Curiously, the view was slightly less dramatic from the top, since I no longer had the soaring views looking down at the flat coastal area, nearly 800 meters below. I had the summit entirely to myself, most people preferring the drive the skyline and enjoy the views from the many parking areas along the way. I took a break for lunch, enjoying the picture-perfect view of Mt Fuji and the comfortable early spring weather. At 2pm, I headed down a path on the north side.

Panoramic View of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu Area

Nearly at the Top

As I walked down, I had a bird’s eye view of Atami resort and the coastline of eastern Izu. Here and there, yamazakura (mountain cherry blossom tree) in full bloom dotted the mountain side. The peace and quiet was often interrupted by the revving of engines; I picked up the pace so I could get to the quieter side of the mountain. I tarried a short while in a spot with plenty of asebi (Japanese Andromeda flower; by 2pm, I was following a trail down through mixed forest.

View of Mt Fuji and Hakone

Heading Down to Atami

I savoured the silence and relished in the new green of spring surrounding me in all directions. Just before 3pm, after passing a bamboo forest, I reached a steep downhill road at the edge of a town, which I followed into the valley, till it merged with a wider road with a bus stop. Once back at Atami station, I boarded the shinkansen for the lightening fast 45-minute trip back to Tokyo.

Easy Hiking Through Mixed Forest

Bamboo Forest at the End of the Trail

In December 2022, I drove along the Izu Skyline between Atami and Mt Amagi and was impressed by the many viewpoints on both sides. It was a good season to drive there since the weather was clear and not too cold, and there was relatively little traffic. In the future, I’d like to do it in reverse so that I can better enjoy the views of Mt Fuji.

View of Kori Pond from the Izu Skyline (Dec 2022)

View of Atami from the Izu Skyline (Dec 2022)

I was very satisfied with the hike mainly because of the great views but also because of the near total absence of other hikers. If I were to redo it, I would probably go by car and start from the Mt Kuro viewpoint, since it’s possible to do a loop hike with all the views.

Watch a video of the Mt Kuro Hike

See the View from the Izu Skyline (December 2022)

See a slideshow of other pictures from the Mt Kuro Hike

Mt Koteya (512m), Otawara City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday, March 19, 2023

I wanted to do some more hiking on the Abukuma Plateau, since I had a great view of it the previous week. Although, I had exhausted all day trip options from my guidebooks, I found a promising peak by examining my maps, east of Mt Takahara and southwest of Mt Yamizo. The hike was up and down the same way and the highest point was next to a road and a parking lot, meaning I wouldn’t have the summit to myself this time. I could get there by taking the shinkansen to Utsunomiya, then take the local line to Nishi-Nasuno, and there catch a bus for Otawara City; on the return, I would do the same route in reverse. The weather was once again supposed to be sunny all day long, and so I was looking forward to exploring a new area and seeing some familiar mountains from new angles.

View of Mt Takahara from the top of Mt Koteya

View of Mt Nasu from halfway up Mt Koteya

It was another perfect blue-sky day as I got off the empty bus a little after 11am. On the way to the trailhead, I stopped by a conveniently located 7/11 to buy some last minutes supplies, and was finally ready to start hiking just before noon. I went under a stone Shinto gate and walked up a long staircase, at the top of which I passed the lonely Atago Shrine on the left. I then followed the path surrounded by tall cedars, the winter sun filtering through the treetops. After some ups and downs, I reached an area clear of trees just before 1am.

Start of the trail (left) walking through the cedars (right)

An easy hike on a sunny winter day

To the west, I had a fantastic view of Mt Nasu, its highest peaks still covered in snow; looking north, I could make out the more discrete shape of Mt Yamizo, the highest peak of the Abukuma Plateau. After taking in the view, I continued along the gently climbing and easy to walk trail. Half an hour later, I emerged onto a road which I followed a short way before reentering the forest. Here, I encountered the steepest section of the hike: although short, it was a scramble, even in dry weather. A few minutes later I arrived at a open shelter.

View towards Mt Yamizo around the half way point

View towards Fukushima Prefecture

Looking west, I had an excellent view of Mt Takahara, specks of white visible on its highest points. I soon moved on, and at the top of a grassy staircase, reached the summit of Mt Koteya (御亭山 こてやさん koteyasan). I had a view on the west side, stretching from Mt Tsubasa to the Oku-Nikko mountains, their tops hidden by clouds; in between lay the vast Kanto plain; on the opposite side, I could make out Mt Yamizo, just visible above the trees. It was nearly 2pm, so I sat on one of the benches scattered around the wide grassy summit for a lunch break.

View of Mt Nasu

View of Mt Hirugatake & Mt Kurotaki (left) and Mt Nasu (right)

It was more peaceful than I had imagined with only one other person venturing to the top from the nearby parking lot. After lunch, I made my way down to the road, and after checking out another viewpoint behind the parking lot, walked back a short way along the road so that I could skip the steep slippery section just below the summit; traffic was light, and I was rewarded with extra views through the trees. Half an hour later, I was back at the clearing passed on the way up.

Last short climb to the summit

View towards Nikko from the summit

After enjoying the view again, slightly different in the afternoon light, I continued down through the forest. Shortly before Atago shrine, I took an alternative path on the right, ending at a small lane on the north side of the mountain. At 3h30 I was back at the trail entrance; since I had about 30 minutes before the return bus, I paid a a quick visit to the nearby Daiyuji Temple and its statues with various interesting facial expressions. On the way back to the bus stop, I had one last view of Mt Takahara from Yakumo shrine.

Heading back down through the forest

View of Mt Takahara from Yakumo shrine

This was another short hike, under 4 hours, but the superb views from half way up and the summit made it entirely worthwhile. It might be interesting to return one day by car to explore the area some more.

See a video of the Mt Koteya hike

Mt Yakemori (420m) & Mt Keisoku (430m), Motegi & Shirosato Towns, Tochigi & Ibaraki Prefectures, Saturday, March 11, 2023

I had this hike in mind for a while, but since it could only be reached by car, it was low down on my list. I would follow the route described in my Mountains of Ibaraki guidebook: a loop hike, with short roundtrips to each peak, at opposite ends of the top ridge. These two mountains are situated near Mt Amamaki and Mt Takadate, on the Tochigi and Ibaraki border, halfway between Utsunomiya and Mito cities, their respective capitals. I decided to rent a car from the latter, about an hour’s drive to the parking on the east side. This way I could take the comfortable Hitachi limited express to Mito station and back. Since it was a relatively short hike, I could get an early lunch at a soba restaurant on the way. The weather was once again supposed to be sunny and I was looking forward to getting more views of the low mountains of the southern end of the Abukuma plateau.

Mt Keisoku (south peak) seen on the way to Mt Yakemori

View of the Abukuma Plateau from Mt Keisoku (north peak)

I was relieved that the parking lot was practically empty when I arrived at 1pm; according to the Google Maps, it’s always full in the morning, especially at this time of the year. After getting ready, I set off up a forest road through the cedars. I soon reached a switchback trail leading to Tarumi Pass (弛み峠) on the ridgeline. There, I turned left, heading west, towards today’s first peak.

Start of the hike (left) Below the south peak of Mt Keisoku (right)

Ridge trail leading to Mt Yakemori

As I followed the undulating ridge, I had glimpses through the fir trees of today’s other peak. After navigating the rocky trail round the base of Zazen Rock (座禅岩 meaning “Zen meditation”), I arrived at the summit of Mt Yakemori (焼森山 やけもりさん yakemorisan meaning “burnt forest”) from where I had a view of Mt Takamine to the southwest and the vast Abukuma Plateau stretching into the distance on the north side. At 2h30, after a short break, I headed back to Tarumi Pass.

View of Mt Keisoku from Mt Yakemori

View northwards of the Abukuma Plateau

I followed the sunny trail up a steep slope and soon reached a junction and a bench in the sun. A signpost indicated that this was the south peak of today’s second mountain; apparently Mt Fuji can be seen through the trees, but not today. I turned left, going down for a bit, and then up again through dark forest. At 3pm, I reached the north peak of Mt Keisoku (鶏足山 けいそくさん keisokusan meaning “chicken foot”), a Tochigi 100-famous mountain, and the exact same height as the south peak.

View northeast from Mt Keisoku

The outline of Mt Nantai can be seen on the right side

The summit was free of trees and offered a wide view on the north side. At this late hour, it was also free of people. I could make out the shape of Ibaraki’s Mt Nantai to the northeast, about 30km away. I followed the trail as it continued down the north side, and a few minutes later, I arrived at Tori-iwa (鶏岩 meaning “chicken rock”), where I had a view on the east side. I quickly made my way back to the junction on the south peak, and and continued along the main trail as it curved south and started to head down the mountain.

View to the southeast from Mt Keisoku

View on the way to Niwatori Rock

It was a pleasant descent through the winter forest, bathed in the late afternoon sun. After passing the minor summit of Mt Fuji-ga-hira (富士ヶ平 340m), marked by a small shrine, the trail became rockier and steeper, slowing my pace somewhat. At 4pm, I was back at the now completely deserted parking lot. I managed to get to Mito before sunset, where I boarded the limited express for the 90 minute ride to Tokyo.

View east from Niwatori Rock

Level trail leading to Mt Fuji-ga-Hira

This was another short hike with great views, ideal for the short and clear days of the Japanese winter. I found out afterwards that there’s a spot with many Mitsumata flowers on the north side of the mountain, that were in full bloom around the time of my visit, giving me a reason to return someday in the future.

See a video of the Mt Keisoku hike

Mt Rokudo (194m), Tokyo & Saitama Prefectures, Sunday, January 29, 2023 [Sayama Lake Perimeter Road]

I had cycled the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road over ten years ago, so I thought it was time to revisit the area, but on foot this time; I wanted to explore the network of hiking paths surrounding this circular trail on the Tokyo-Saitama border, and the closest nature park to the capital. Previously, I had taken a train to Seibukyujomae station, near the eastern end of Sayama lake; however, the best trails are located several kilometers away on the western side. I decided to take a train to Kotesashi station on the Seibu line, and then a bus to Kojiya, on the northern side of the lake; I would finish at Hakonegasaki station on the Hachiko line and return via Hanno, from where I could return to Ikebukuro with the Laview Limited express. In between, I didn’t have a precise plan: my main purpose was to see whether I could get a satisfying half day of hiking through the area.

Hiking in the Sayama Natural Park 都立狭山自然公園

5/2024 update:some paths between the Saitama Green Forest Museum with the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road are closed indefinitely due to fallen trees. Please see this page (Japanese only) for more information (closed sections are in red).

Walking between the Tonbo and Nishikubo Marshes

View of Mt Fuji from the Mt Rokudo Park Observatory

It was a short bus ride from the station on a sunny winter day. Before setting off, I dropped by a nearby Ministop, one advantage of hiking within the city. At 12h30, I was walking through a residential neighbourhood, the houses separated by fields: I even saw a fox trot through one of them. I soon arrived at the peaceful Kojiya Hachiman Shrine (糀谷八幡神社) at the edge of Kojiya Marsh 湿地, and the start of the hiking trails.

Kojiya Hachiman Shrine near Kojiya Marsh

Heading towards the Saitama Green Forest Museum

I had a view of the Chichibu mountains, clearly visible on this cold winter day, from behind the shrine. I followed the gently sloping path up to the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road, but almost immediately took a side path leading directly to the Saitama Green Forest Museum (緑の森博物館), a small, free museum at the edge of Dragonfly Marsh (トンボ湿地), also the location of Totoro’s Forest #30.

Walking along the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road

Exploring the paths around the Nishikubo Marsh

I had a view to the north of faraway Mt Akagi, covered in snow, from an open, elevated space behind the museum. I set off again through the marsh and soon arrived at a intersection, where I turned right. This new path led to Nishikubo Marsh (西久保湿地), not much to look at in the middle of winter, but probably a great place to wander around in summer. I made a quick detour along a backstreet to check out the nearby Nishikubo-Kannon Temple.

Intersection at the edge of the Nishikubo Marsh

View towards the mountains of western Tokyo near Nishikubo-Kannon

From there, I had another view of the mountains of western Tokyo, extending northwards; the clouds had started to roll in, making me wonder how much longer the sun would last. I reentered the woods and after a long, gradual climb, arrived once more at the Sayama Perimeter Road (狭山湖外周道路), which I followed for a short while, before turning right onto the ridge trail for Takane (高根). However, I very soon took a left, heading down some steps.

Path for Yato 谷戸 (left) / Staircase for Asama Shrine (right)

Walking through the North Sayama Valley

I followed a narrow path next to a brook through the North Sayama Valley (北狭山谷); it soon turned into a wider path, ending near some ponds at Tanoiri-Yato (田ノ入谷戸). I was now inside Noyamakita-Rokudoyama Park 野山北六道山公園. I left it briefly to follow a road leading to Takaneyama park (高根山公園), from where I walked up the Takaneyama Walking Trail, and upon reaching a road, continued till the Rokudoyama Park Observatory (六道山公園 展望台), on top of Mt Rokudo, a Tokyo 100 famous mountain.

Heading towards the Triangulation Point

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from the Mt Rokudo Park Observatory

From the top, I had a view southwest of Mt Fuji and the Tanzawa mountains, and west of the Okutama mountains. After a short break, I retraced my steps, then took a left over a bridge, arriving at a triangulation point (194m) at 3pm. I took the Oiseyama Walking Trail, past Mt Atago (190m 愛宕山). I soon reached the tiny Asama Shrine (浅間神社), and went down a wooden staircase, ending at another shrine, and the end of the trail. After a 15 minute walk through Mizuho Town, I reached Hakonsegaseki station around 4pm.

Watch a video of the Mt Rokudo Hike

Mt Sekison (571m), Annaka City, Gunma Prefecture, Saturday, January 7, 2023

I wanted to use the Tokyo Wide Pass for the long first weekend of 2023. I searched my maps for some low-altitude mountains near a shinkansen station and finally found a series of minor summits, part of the Annaka Alps, north of Annaka-Haruna station, one stop from Takasaki on the Hokuriku line. I had often passed through this station on the way to and from Karuizawa, so I was glad for a chance to finally get off there. The hike through these hills was relatively short, but could be extended by following the Kanto Fureai no Michi, as it headed south from Mt Haruna. Upon reaching a road, I could catch a bus back to Annaka station on the Shin-Etsu line, therefore completing an “Annaka to Annaka hike” of my own creation.

Hiking with the Tokyo Wide Pass

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Hiking the Annaka Alps 安中アルプス

View of the hike from Kanbai Park

I reached the Annaka-Haruna at 11am on a sunny winter day and was stunned by the clear view of Mt Myogi from outside the station. Half an hour later, I was walking up a road on the north side, and soon spotted a signpost for a trail on the right. I followed a narrow path as it went through a bamboo forest, then merged with a forest road, before reaching a parking lot at the end of a paved road. On the other side, the trail continued up a series of log steps through beautiful forest.

View of Mt Myogi from Annaka-Haruna Station

Start of the trail leading to the “47 statues”

I suddenly found myself walking under a cliff, and felt nervous about rockfall, something I hadn’t expected on today’s hike. I had arrived at a historical site called “The statues of the 47 loyal retainers of Ako-Gishu” (赤穂義士四十七士石像), in memory of the 47 Ronin. After quickly confirming that there were indeed 47 statues along the base of the cliff, I set off again, up a steep trail winding around the back of the rocky outcrop.

A log staircase going up through sunny forest

The trail passes near the base of a rocky outcrop

As I neared the top, I stepped into a hole hidden by dead leaves and banged my knee on a rock; fortunately, it was more fright than harm. A few minutes later, I reached the summit of Mt Goten (御殿山 400m); it was completely in the trees so I soon moved on. I followed a mostly level trail through a dark cedar forest till it ended at a dirt road. Using my map, I quickly picked up the trail again, as it led to the top of a hill.

The hike alternated between sunny and shady sections

Hiking through the winter woods

I was now walking on a sunny level path, with glimpses of Mt Haruna on the north side, through leafless trees. At 1pm, I arrived at the summit of Mt Sekison (石尊山 せきそんさん sekison-san), a gunma 100-famous mountain, and rested on a bench with a narrow view to the south. After lunch, I followed a path down the other side, and after crossing a road, walked up the next hill. I soon passed the summit of Mt Toya (605m 戸谷山 とややま), in the trees, and headed down the other side, arriving at the Kanto Fureai no Michi at 2pm, where I turned left.

Most of the trail was easy to walk

The entire hill range is known as the Annaka Alps

I followed a pleasant trail, downhill through sunny forest, with occasional views of the Joshu mountains, reaching a road and a bus stop at around 3pm. I decided to check out the Akima Plum Grove (秋間梅林), a short distance away. From the highest point of Kanbai Park (観梅公園), I was rewarded view of the hills I had just hiked, as well as some early pink plum blossoms. I followed a different path through the park back to the road. There, I got on a bus for Annaka station, just 3 stops from Takasaki station, from where I could catch the shinkansen for the 40-minute ride to Tokyo.

See the views along the Mt Sekison hike

See more pictures of the Mt Sekison hike