Mt Fuji View – Page 2 – Hiking Around Tokyo

Mt Hijiri (380m), Mt Takatori (556m) & Mt Kobo (235m), Isehara & Hadano Cities, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 4, 2025

Like for the last outing of 2024, I needed a straightforward hike close to Tokyo to ensure a smooth start to the new year. I decided to head to the Tanzawa foothills, notorious for its leeches in the warmer months, but pest-free at this time of the year. I had already walked from the top of the Oyama cable car to Mt Takatori, as well as from Mt Kobo to Tsurumaki Onsen. This time, I’d explore the southern ridgeline between Mt Takatori and Mt Kobo. I knew I could get a good view of Mt Fuji past Mt Kobo, and also finish the hike at Manyu no Yu, two reasons for making this the first hike of 2025.

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Hiking in the Tanzawa Mountains 　丹沢山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the local Odakyu line to Isehara station, and then board a local bus for a stop near a city park, a short distance from the trail Entrance. For the return, I could walk from the hot spring to Hadano station, and there, board the Odakyu Limited Express for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon, putting a question mark on my new year rendezvous with Mt Fuji. Still, I was looking forward to exploring new trails in a familiar area.

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Steps for Mt To (left) Road for Mt Hijiri (right)

Leaving Mt Hijiri (left) Steps up Mt Takatori (right)

It felt quite cold as I stepped off the bus in the midst of a residential neighbourhood of Isehara city, a little before 10am. Thankfully, the sun was high enough to warm me up while I made my way to Tonoyama Park (塔の山公園), a wooded area surrounding a small mountain. After a short climb up a wide path, I reached some benches from where I already had a view of the flat coastal area reaching to Shonan Bay. After a late breakfast I set off at 1030, and soon after, reached the top of Mt To (塔ノ山とうのやま tonoyama 202m, meaning “Mt Tower”), from where I had a view of summit of Mt Ooyama on the north side.

Trail past Mt Nenbutsu (left) Trail for Zenba Pass (right)

Steps past Mt Gongen (left) Steps past Mt Sengen (right)

I continued along the ridgeline, heading down through leafless trees, and soon arrived at a road on the north side of the mountain. I turned right, heading south, past the main park entrance, then turned left, following a sign for Hokokuji Temple, and shortly after, came upon a signpost for today’s next mountain. After a few more turns along back roads, I reached the Mt Hijiri trail entrance (聖峰登山口), another paved road but this one closed to vehicles. After passing through a wildlife gate, I continued straight, ignoring the shortcut on the left side, and a little before noon, reached the top of Mt Hijiri (聖峰ひじりみね hijiri-mine meaning “sacred peak”), also the site of a small Buddhist temple.

View East from Hijiri-mine of the Miura and Boso Peninsulas

View South from Hijiri-mine of Shonan Bay and Shonan-daira

I was delighted to have such a wide view on my first hike of the year. Looking north, I could see the skyscrapers of Yokohama and central Tokyo; eastwards, I could make out the low rounded mountains of the Miura and Boso peninsulas; to the south was the level-topped Shonan-daira with Shonan Bay in the background. While I was admiring the view, a pickup truck pulled up, and a man went to open the temple building, called Hijiri-mine Fudoson (聖峰不動尊), giving myself, and two other people who happened to be there, a chance to peer at the Buddhist altar inside; we even got to touch a small snake statue (2025 is the year of the snake); finally, we each received a paper stamped with its “goshuin“, a red seal proving one’s visit to the place. After carefully placing it inside my pack, I set off again, along a level trail through tall cedars, and soon reached a series of log steps where the ridgeline rose steeply.

Steps Leading to Mt Takatori

View South from below Mt Takatori

I broke a sweat for the first time of the day, only pausing briefly to take in a view that had appeared through a gap in the trees. Looking south, I could see the ridge I’d be following on the next part of the hike; curving northwards was the ridge I’d just ascended, green cedars crowning the top of Mt Hijiri. I reached a junction where the two ridges merged; I turned right, and after a little more climbing, reached the top of Mt Takatori (高取山たかとりやま takatori-yama), also the site of an NTT relay tower. It was surrounded by trees except on the north side, where Mt Oyama’s pyramidal summit fit snuggly between two tree trunks. I retraced my steps to the junction and continued along the south ridge.

View towards Mt Hijiri and its “green crown”

Framed View of Mt Oyama from Mt Takatori

I was surprised by how steep and rocky the trail suddenly became, forcing me to slow my pace. I was relieved when the trail soon became more or less level again, and one hour after leaving Mt Takatori, I arrived at Mt Nenbutsu (念仏山 357m) where there was bench and a view on the south side. The name is a Buddhist term meaning visualizing a Buddha. By now, the clouds had covered the southern half of the sky forcing me to imagine most of the view as well. Since it was nearly 2pm, I had a late lunch break before continuing my way.

Trail between Mt Nenbutsu and Mt Kobo

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from the Fureai no Michi Junction

This was probably the nicest part of the hike, an easy to follow and slightly descending trail through an evergreen forest. At 2h30, I reached Zenba Pass (善場峠), and a little further, I emerged onto a road with a view of the Tanzawa mountains to the north, seemingly still free of snow. I crossed the road and headed up a trail on the other side, now inside Koboyama Park (弘法山公園) and also on the Kanto Fureai no Michi. After a short climb, I reached the top of Mt Kobo (弘法山こうぼうやま koubou-yama), named after Kobo-daishi who is said to have trained in this place (he is also connected to Mt Mitsumine). Since my last visit in April 2016, a viewing platform had been erected on the east side. Like from Mt Hijiri, I had a view of the Shonan coastline, the Miura Peninsula and Shona-daira, but it looked quite different under a cloudy afternoon sky.

Final Steps before the Top of Mt Kobo

Viewing Platform on the East Side of Mt Kobo

I admired the constantly changing patchwork of light and dark patches in the landscape below. On the south side, the bell tower sitting directly in the sun’s path lit golden. I now followed Babamichi road (馬場道) meaning “riding ground”, indeed wide enough for riding a horse, to the next summit, Mt Gongen (権現山ごんげんやま 243m), a flat, grassy area with an observation tower on the east side. From its top, I hoped to finally have a glimpse of Mt Fuji, but those hopes were dashed by the thick, dark clouds massed on the south side. A ray of sunlight managed to squeeze through, illuminating the urban sprawl of Hadano City, providing the proverbial silver lining. On the east side, I could look down on the Soga Hills, a range of low hills stretching from Matsuda town to Kozu station on the Shonan Coast.

Patches of Light and Dark from Mt Kobo

Shonan Coast and Shonan-daira from Mt Kobo

I was surprised to see a few snowflakes fall gently and thought perhaps a snowstorm was on its way; fortunately, there was no follow-up, bits of blue sky still appearing overhead. At 3h30, I headed down steep steps on the south side, leaving the Fureai no Michi as it headed east to connect with my last year’s hike to Mt Takatori. After crossing a road, I passed by Mt Sengen (浅間山せんげんやま 196m). It was more of a shoulder that a summit but what it lacked in prominence was made up by the prominence of its beautiful wood-carved summit marker. On my last visit, the scenery was white from the cherry blossom trees covering the “shoulder”; today it was bathed in yellow from the late afternoon sun.

View of the Soga Hills from Mt Gongen

View from Mt Gongen of Mt Hadano under a Ray of Sun

The final descent of the day was surprisingly pleasant: a switchback trail delightfully easy on tired knees, late afternoon sun shining through evergreen trees, and no one but me on the mountain. Just before 4pm, I reached the trail entrance and a busy road where I turned left. On Kobo bridge across the Kaname River, I had one last look at Mt Kobo, firmly under blue skies now, before heading to the nearby Man-no-yu Hot Spring. I reflected on how most of today’s mountains names are common mountain names in Japan and how unusual it was to find all along one ridgeline. After a satisfying hot spring soak, I walked the final 15 minutes to Hadano station, where I caught the Romance Car limited express for the one hour trip back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Fukunari (227m) & Mt Shizuhata (171m), Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture, Saturday, December 14, 2024

I wanted to do some more hiking in Shizuoka. Looking online, I found a trail along a north-south ridgeline extending all the way into Shizuoka city, the Mt Shizuhata Hiking Trail. It seemed a bit on the short side meaning I could walk it at a leisurely pace while enjoying the views. After visiting Asama shrine at the end of the trail, I could drop by the nearby Ofuro Cafe Bijinyu, a public bath doubling as a cafe.

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I could get to the start of the hike by riding the bullet train directly to Shizuoka station, and from there, catch a bus for Ume-ga-shima Onsen, getting off at the entrance for Kujira-ga-ike Pond (actually a lake), a short distance from the trail entrance. After the hot bath at the end, I could catch a bus for the short ride back to the station. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, as well as a little windy. I was looking forward to exploring a new area with new views.

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Start of the Hike past Kujira Lake (left) Entering the Bamboo Forest (right)

Trail near the 1st Viewpoint (left) Trees in the Way below Mt Fukunari (right)

It was a blue-sky day as I rode the shinkansen, arriving at Shizuoka station around 10am. Soon after, I was riding a city bus northwards, with glimpses of the ridge I’d be walking today on my right side. It took half an hour to reach the Kujira-ga-ike Iriguchi bus stop, from where it was a short walk to Kujira-ga-ike, a fishing spot meaning “Whale pond”, presumably named after its shape. I decided to head around its south shore to better admire the view of the Shin-Tomei expressway on the opposite side .

Trail near the 2nd Viewpoint (left) Trail near the 3rd Viewpoint (right)

Trail past Mt Tanku (left) Mid-section of the Shizuhata Trail (right)

The view was best from the east side, just past Kujira-ga-ike Benten Shrine, the expressway disappearing into the mountains of the Southern Alps, puffy cumulus clouds reflected on the water surface. It was nearly noon, so I left the fisherman behind, and just before a tunnel, went up a paved road on the right, simply signposted as “Hiking Trail”, one of the trail entrances of the Mt Shizuhata Hiking Trail (賎機山ハイキングコース). I soon reached a real hiking trail, where I turned right, heading south along a gently undulating ridgeline. After passing through a tunnel of tall grasses, I arrived at the entrance of a bamboo grove.

An Easy to Walk Trail (left) Trail Past Ipponmatsu (Right)

Heading down after Ipponmatsu (left) Heading Towards Mt Shizuhata (right)

I love walking through bamboo groves as it’s something unique to this part of the world. This one was especially amazing, with one tall bare tree in its center, like a lord among its subjects. It was totally quiet, except for the occasionally cracking noises of the bamboo growing. After exiting the grove, the trail took on a very countryside-like quality, passing between hedges and rows of identical trees. Occasionally I could see some blue sky between gaps in the tree and I was starting to wonder whether I would get any views. Finally, one hour after I started along the trail, I reached the first viewpoint of the day, at the edge of a fruit orchard.

The Shin-Tomei Expressway from the South Side of Kujira Pond

The Shin-Tomei Expressway from the East Side of Kujira Pond

Looking eastwards, I could see all the way to the mountains of Izu peninsula; in front was Nihondaira, and to the south, Suruga Bay, with Shizuoka city filling in the low-lying spaces between the mountains and the ocean. I set off again, and after a short climb, reached Fukunari Shrine at the top of Mt Fukunari (福成山ふくなりさん fukunari-san) at 1pm. It was mostly in the trees, with a window view of Abe river through a gap on the west side. I continued on my way, heading slightly downhill, and soon arrived at a bench and a second viewpoint, mostly of Shizuoka city on the south side. I pushed on a little further, and reached another bench and a third viewpoint.

View East of Asahata Village from the 1st Viewpoint

View West of Abe River from the 3rd Viewpoint

I had a better view of the Abe river valley than from the summit, and since this bench was in the sun, I decided to take a break for lunch. I set off again, a little before 2pm, and soon found myself ascending through tea fields, typical scenery of Shizuoka prefecture. Thanks to the low tea bushes, a wide view soon opened up on the west side. To the north, was Mt Ryuso; to its left, I could see the multiple mountain ranges of the Southern Alps, one tall peak in the very center already white with snow; from this mountainous mass emerged the Abe river, passing under the busy Shin-Tomei expressway.

Row of Trees Separating the Tea Fields

View of Abe River and the Shin-Tomei Expressway from Mt Tanku

It was easily the best view of the day; it was also the coldest spot of the day, the wind blowing hard, a blast of cold air descending from the Alps, bringing dark clouds in its tow. I arrived at a concrete platform with a bench and a view on the east side, the culminating point of the surrounding tea fields. It was next to a large cylindrical storage tank, and was thus called Mt Tanku (タンク山 229m), although a summit marker seemed to be missing. I had a panoramic view of the Izu peninsula, Nihondaira, Suruga Bay and Shizuoka city; just Mt Fuji was missing from the picture. It was nearly 3pm, and I hadn’t reached the halfway point, so I stepped up the pace. The next part was mostly level, with frequent views on the east side through gaps in the vegetation.

Mt Ryuso, Tea Fields and Dark Clouds

View from Mt Tanku of the Southern Alps

I noticed a mushroom-shaped cloud formation above the next ridgeline, a sudden downpour created by the influx of cold air from inland, a lucky escape for me. I left the tea fields behind and was once again walking through the forest. I was surprised by the variety of trees, very different from the monotonous cedar forests in other hiking areas; hanging between the branches were the ever-present jorogumo spiders still alive and well, despite the cold. After passing an electric pylon and some more orchards, I reached a road. Here, beyond the orange mikan, I had my first view of Mt Fuji, half-hidden by the clouds. I followed the road for a short while before rejoining the hiking path.

Bench with a View at the Top of Mt Tanku

Nihondaira and Shizuoka City from Mt Tanku

Great views, now including Mt Fuji, kept on appearing on the east side, slowing my pace. After passing 3 panda figurines hanging from a tree, I reached another road section heading up, but soon left it for path with plastic tubes for steps, leading to Ipponmatsu (一本松 192m), meaning “One Pine Tree”, which stood all by itself on the north side. From this vantage point, I could admire the ridgeline I had walked so far today, with Mt Ryusu rising directly behind; to its right was Mt Fuji, its famous snowcap now free of clouds. It was nearly 4pm, and I still had a third of the way to go, so I turned away from the view and headed down a path in the opposite direction.

Mushroom-Shaped Cloud on the Next Ridge

Mt Ryuso and the Mt Shizuhata Hiking Trail from Ipponmatsu

The late afternoon sunlight created a wonderful effect as I headed down some log steps facing westwards, although it also signaled that sunset was imminent. At another viewpoint with a bench, I saw the sun touching the opposite ridgeline, the Shin-Tomei expressway simply a yellow line along the valley; in the other direction, Mt Fuji was clearly visible and starting to turn pink. I continued up a steep trail, requiring one final effort to get to the top of Mt Shizuhata (賤機山しずはたやま shizuhata-yama), also the remains of an ancient castle; apparently the “shizu” in Shizuoka comes from this mountain’s name. It was mostly in the trees so I soon moved on, along a level trail with wide open views on the west side.

Mt Fuji from Ipponmatsu

Trail between Ipponmatsu and Mt Shizuhata

Turning around, I was stunned by the orange colours on the mountain side, highlighted by the fast setting sun. A little further on, I had another view of Shizuoka city on the east side, under pink clouds and a full moon. I quickened my pace, and after one final effort up a section crisscrossed with tree roots, forcing me to tread carefully in the growing gloom, I reached the top of Mt Asama (浅間山 140m). It was also inside Shizuhatayama park, with a paved path and occasional lampposts, meaning I could complete the hike safely even in dark conditions.

Autumn Colours Past Mt Shizuhata

Mt Fuji and Full Moon from Mt Asama

I had a breathtaking view of pink Fuji under a yellow moon, lights slowly coming on throughout the city spread out below, the last view of the day. It was past 4h30, so I quickly made my way down through the park, past Asama Shrine, the path enchantingly lit by lanterns, people still dropping by for a quick prayer in the early evening. At 5pm I emerged onto a busy road at the base of the mountain, and a short while later, arrived at Ofuro Cafe Bijinyu. After a reinvigorating hot bath, I caught a city bus for the short ride back to Shizuoka station, where I hopped onto the shinkansen for the one-hour trip back to Tokyo.

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Mt Kanamaru (532m) & Mt Omaru (567m), Fuji & Shizuoka Cities, Shizuoka Prefecture, Sunday, December 8, 2024

I felt it was time to return to Shizuoka as my last hike there was nearly a year ago. I also wanted to see Mt Fuji with its brand new snow cover. Looking online, I found a station to station hike through the Kanbara Hills (蒲原丘陵) right on Sugura Bay. It also passed by a number of peaks, two of which had views from their summits. Finally, it followed a section of the Tokaido Nature Trail which I had been wanting to explore more.

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Tokaido shinkansen from Tokyo to Mishima station, then change to the local Tokaido line, and get of at Fujikawa station. I’d finish the hike at Kanbara station, two stops further down the line. The weather was supposed to be clear and cold all day, ideal for viewing Japan’s most famous mountain. I was looking forward to a relaxing autumn hike outside my usual stomping grounds.

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Start of the hike above Jissoin (left) Trail for Mt Hanamaru (right)

Daishido Temple (left) Path for Mt Ohira (right)

I could see it was going to be another fantastic Autumn day, judging from the weather during the short trip to Mishima. From there, it took half an hour by slow train to reach Fujikawa station where I already had a view of Mt Fuji, its top crater hiding in the clouds. At 11am, I reached Jissoin (実相院), a small temple at the edge of the mountains. Turning around, I could see Suruga Bay and the Izu peninsula. I could also see Jorogumo spiders sitting in their webs so I picked up a stick and headed up a paved path behind the temple building.

Going down Mt Noda (Left) Going up Mt Omaru (right)

On the way to Miharashi-Kannon (left) Walking down to Kanbara Station (right)

I was relieved the path was free of webs and was easy to follow, although I had to duck under a couple of fallen trees along the way. After thirty minutes, the path turned into a proper trail, with log steps fitted in the climbing sections. The trail crossed a forest road several times, marked with relatively new signs for “Kanamaruyama-hiroba” (金丸山広場). I soon found myself walking through an area of cut trees, blue sky appearing above; a little before 1230, I arrived at the Fujikawa Camping Ground (富士川キャンプ場), and followed a small path to a bench and a viewpoint above the campsite.

Fallen Tree Blocking the Way to Mt Kanamaru

Mt Fuji View from the Fujikawa Camping Ground

I was delighted to see that Mt Fuji was now entirely free of clouds, with Mt Kenashi on its left side and Mt Ashitaka on its right side. I was also impressed with the urban build-up from Fuji’s lower slopes to the curving coastline of Suruga Bay, most certainly a wonderful view at night. Beyond the bay, I could see the outline of the mountains of Izu peninsula, extending into the Pacific Ocean. Since it was nearly 1pm, I settled on the bench for an early lunch with a panoramic view.

Today’s Lunch Spot with a View

View of Mt Kenashi and Mt Fuji

I wondered why I hadn’t seen any other hikers so far, even the campsite had only one solitary tent. I continued my way and soon reached the top of Mt Kanamaru (金丸山かなまるやま kanamaruyama), the site of a telecommunication tower, completely in the trees and with no visible summit marker. I quickly moved on, heading steeply down through thick forest. After a couple of turns, I reached Daishido Temple (大師堂), where a stone bridge crossed a stream flowing into a lonely pond.

View of Mt Ashitaka, Fuji City and Suruga Bay

Stone Bridge near Daishido Temple

I took a moment to enjoy the scenery of yellow leaves, half on the trees and half scattered on the ground, a sign that Autumn was nearly over. I followed a road southwards, hugging the mountain side, and after ten minutes, reached a fork with a signboard for the Tokai Nature Trail Bypass Route (東海自然歩道バイパスコース) which I’d now be joining. I went up some log steps on the right side, emerging from the forest onto a small grass field at the top of Mt Ohira (大平山 569m), surrounded by trees, some still with Autumn leaves. I turned right at a junction and soon arrived at a gate, beyond which was a forest road and a rounded summit completely cleared of trees.

Road section near Daishido Temple

Log Steps Leading to Mt Ohira

I was stunned by the view that suddenly came into view, a range of mountains stretching from south to north, the southernmost part of the Southern Alps. Following a footpath through the tree stumps, I reached the top of Mt Noda (野田山 598m) marked by a small shrine in lieu of a summit marker. I had the best view of the day: from left to right, I could observe the Pacific Ocean, the Southern Alps, Mt Fuji, Mt Ashitaka, Suruga Bay and the Izu Peninsula. I retraced my steps back into the forest, and after a brief up and down, arrived at another grassy field, the top of Mt Okubo (大久保 565m). Since it was also in the trees, I continued without a break.

Autumn Colours near the Top of Mt Ohira

View of the Southern Alps from the Top of Mt Noda

I was surprised by the profusion of signposts, some so detailed it was possible to find one’s way without a map. I enjoyed hiking through the quiet forest, apparently being the only person on the mountain today. After some gentle climbing, I arrived at an electric pylon marking the top of Mt Omaru (大丸山おおまるやま oomaruyama); there was also a grass field, seemingly a common feature of the area. The view was somewhat blocked by vegetation but I could see Mt Fuji, Mt Ashitaka and Suruga Bay. It was now 2h30 so I sat on a bench for a short break before the hike down.

Mt Fuji and Mt Ashitaka from Mt Noda

Close-up of Mt Fuji and its Snowcap

It was very pleasant, sitting on the sunny bench, gazing at the golden “susuki” swaying in the wind in front of the bright red pylon with the blue sea and sky in the background. At 3pm, I set off again, heading down the mountain through the forest. This was probably the nicest part of today’s hike, and I was glad that it was part of the Tokaido Nature Trail, even though it was just a bypass. I soon arrived at a secluded spot called Miharashi-Kannon 見晴観音 (438m), seemingly just a crossroads. I turned left, leaving the Tokaido Nature Trail which continued straight, towards Mt Hamaishi.

Heading towards Mt Okubo and Mt Omaru

Ancient Pathway past Miharashi-Kannon

I was now following what seemed like an ancient road due to the stone markers appearing at regular intervals and traces of a stone wall. I soon arrived at another junction with multiple signposts where I continued straight, soon emerging into an open space. I could see the sky, light fading, half moon visible above a tall pine. I had to watch out for spiders again as they had suddenly reappeared, sitting in elaborate webs next to the trail. I heard the sound of rushing water, a brook running through the vegetation on the right side. Just before 4pm, I popped onto a road, where I turned right.

Last Light on Kanbara Farm

Dusk on Suruga Bay at the End of the Hike

Facing south on the descent, I had views of yellows and oranges, not of leaves but of the sky, as the sun had set and dusk had arrived. At 4pm, I passed through Kanbara Farm and spied many handwritten signs warning against fruit theft. Just as it was starting to get dark, I heard the noise of cars and trucks from the Tomei expressway, and shortly after, I could see houses and buildings along the ocean. At 5pm, I arrived at Kanbara station and soon after I was riding the train back to Mishama where I caught the shinkansen for the lightning speed trip back to Tokyo.

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Mt Komatsu (514m), Mt Shiro (640m) & Mt Yumura (446m), Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Saturday, November 23, 2024

I was looking for another hike in Yamanashi before the arrival of the snow. I also wanted to stay relatively low since the temperatures had plummeted since the previous week. Looking at my map, I spotted a group of suitable mountains just north of Kofu. I had already done a great hike on the northeast side so I was keen to explore the area more. I saw that I could make an open loop passing by several viewpoints, including an interesting rock formation and a lake, within a reasonable amount of time.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike near Suwa Shrine, I’d ride the Chuo limited express to Kofu station, and from there, ride a bus to a stop within walking distance of the shrine. I’d finish the hike at Yumura Onsen in northwest Kofu, and after a hot spring bath, ride a bus back to the station. The weather was supposed to be clear but cold. I hoped I could get some good views of the surrounding mountains, including Mt Fuji, and still catch the Autumn leaves at their best.

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Start of the Hike near Suwa Shrine (left) Tall Pines on Mt Komatsu (right)

Exposed Rocks above Kinsu-toge (left) Autumn Colours near Chiyoda Lake (right)

It was a cloudless, blue-sky day as I stepped off the limited express in Kofu station at 10am. I boarded a local bus, the driver even kindly confirmed my destination, and after a short ride, I got off at a stop still within the confines of the city. A few minutes of walking brought me to the foot of the mountains, and after a short climb, I arrived at Hizakutsu-suwa Shrine (膝屈諏訪神社). It was just after 11am as I passed under the stone shinto gate next to an impressive yellow gingko-tree.

Trail below Mt Shiro (left) Trail past Mt Hosenji (right)

Path for Mt Yumura (left) Flagstones for Yumura Castle Ruins (right)

Turning around, I was rewarded with a view of snow-capped Fuji. I made my way to the white shrine building surrounded by tall cedars, and after taking a few minutes to adjust my gear, set off along a level trail at the far end of the shrine grounds. I soon emerged from the trees onto a sports field, and after crossing a busy road, followed a residential street up the mountain side to a staircase below the trail entrance. This section has no signposts and I had to rely entirely on my phone GPS.

Log Steps Leading to the Top of Mt Komatsu

Walking the Takeda no Mori Promenade

I was surprised to see that the trail was partly overgrown, a sign that it was little used in this season; I was even more surprised to notice spiders again, a sign of their resilience to cold weather. Once the path started to climb, the trail became better defined; I saw the first signpost of the day upon reaching a wide path along the top ridge. I turned right, and after climbing a series of log steps, arrived at the top of Mt Komatsu (小松山こまつやま komatsu-yama), the promised view mostly blocked by vegetation.

Heading up to Kinsu-toge

The exposed rocks of Mt Awayuki

I was tempted to take a break at one of the sunny summit picnic tables but since it was barely noon, I decided to press on. Even though the mountain name means “little pine”, it was home to some very tall red pines, one of the 100 famous forests of Yamanashi. I went back down the steps and followed the ridge northwards, soon merging with the Takeda Forest Promenade (武田の森遊歩道 takeda-no-mori-yuhodo named after Takeda Shingen, a famous feudal lord from the Sengoku era), an ancient road connecting Wada and Iwado passes; I had already walked the latter part on my Mt Yogai hike. I strolled along the wide, level path as it followed the mountain side eastwards through the forest.

First view of the day near Kinsu-toge

Mt Fuji, the Misaka Mountains and the Kofu Basin

From time to time, I waved a stick to clear the stubborn spider webs that were too low to duck under, their occupants groggily moving out of the way. Shortly before 1pm, I left the promenade and turned left onto a wide path leading up the mountain side, the webs now thankfully gone. I soon reached Kinsu Pass (679m 金子峠) where I had a view of Mt Fuji between a gap in the trees. I now rejoined a hiking trail, and continued eastwards, soon arriving at a group of white-coloured rocks, called “Exposed Rocks of Mt Awayuki” (702m 淡雪山の露岩あわゆきやまのつゆいわ), similar to the scenery one can find at the nearby Shosenkyo. It was also the highest point of today’s hike.

Mt Kaikoma from the Exposed Rocks

Afternoon Light at Chiyoda Lake

I felt lucky to have such a spot all to myself. Above the pines on the south side, I had a fantastic view of Mt Fuji and the Kofu basin. To the west, I could see Mt Kaikoma, also known for its white rocks, and the long summit ridge of Mt Houou. After taking a few minutes to explore and take photos, I selected a suitable rock to sit on for a lunch break. A little after 2pm, I headed back to Kinsu Pass, and followed the ridge westwards. Here the trail became faint and I had to rely on my phone GPS and the occasional pink ribbon. After a short descent, I reached a proper trail which soon turned into a road through a residential area; at 3pm, I arrived at the edge of Chiyoda lake.

Autumn Colours on the way to the Mt Shiro Viewpoint

Chiyoda Lake from the Mt Shiro Viewpoint

I was dazzled by the reflection of sunlight on the blue water surface and green water plants. I headed up log steps surrounded by red and orange leaves, happy to be back on a hiking trail. After a short climb, I reached an open shelter at the Shiroyama Viewpoint (白山展望台). Directly below was Chiyoda lake; to the west, I could the see the outline of Mt Houu against the fast sinking sun; looking north, I spotted Mt Kaya and the Kurofuji volcanic group, with the white rocks of Shosenkyo in the foreground and the peaks of Yatsugatake in the background. I still had a little way to go to the next summit, so after a short break, I set off again. The up and down trail was easy to follow, and at 3h30, I reached the Hachioji shrine (八王子神社) at the top of Mt Shiroyama (白山しろやま), meaning “white mountain”.

View of Kofu from the top of Mt Shiro

Dark Clouds and Yellow Leaves from Mt Shiro

I was stunned by the view of fleecy clouds spreading from the snowy slopes of Mt Fuji, casting shade over Kofu city’s urban sprawl; luckily, the light still reached the surrounding slopes, lighting them up in gold. I quickly admired the view of the South Alps on the other side of the shrine, before moving on, picking up the pace as I wanted to get down before dark. I descended a steep, sandy trail, the rocky outcroppings and gnarly pines along the way feeling quite typical of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai national park. I was delayed by two more superb viewpoints, the setting sun creating a striking contrast of light and shade, before reaching a level trail, now in the shade. At 4pm, I passed the minor summit of Mt Hosenji (539m 法泉寺山ほうせんじやま), completely within the trees.

The Tip of Mt Fuji hidden by the Clouds

The South Alps from the Top of Mt Shiro

I was suddenly walking on flagstones (“ishidatami), a reminder that today’s last summit was also the location of Yumura castle (湯村城), although only some stone foundations remain today; I had to be careful not to miss my step, especially since the visibility was starting to fade. After a short descent, I reached a fire beacon (“noroshi“), a recent reconstruction of one of the many that used to exist during the Edo period, creating an ancient communication system. One final effort brought me to the open shelter at the top of Mt Yumura (湯村山ゆむらやま yumura-yama), meaning “hot spring village”.

Sun Setting behind Mt Houou

Trail between Mt Shiro and Mt Yumura

I had one last view of Mt Fuji, its top half truncated by a layer of grey clouds. It was 4h30, so I sped back to the fire beacon and headed down a switchback trail on the west side, occasionally taking the well-worn short cuts between the bends. I was relieved to reach Yumura Onsen (湯村温泉) before it was completely dark, arriving at Yumura Hotel just before 5pm. After a refreshing hot spring bath, I caught a bus for Kofu station, where I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

Easy to Follow Trail below Mt Shiro

Last View of the day from Mt Yumura

This hike ended up taking 6 hours, a bit longer than planned, mainly because of the superb views along the way. The section around Mt Shiro was especially stunning, and I’d like a chance to redo in lighter conditions. It deserves to be better known, and it’s a mystery why I saw no other hikers the whole day. In the future, I’d also like to climb Mt Kata (片山) on the other side of Chiyoda lake and also explore more of the Takeda Forest Promenade towards Yogai Onsen. Before that, I definitely want to revisit the white rocks of nearby Shosenkyo.

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Kurofuji (1633m) & Mt Masugata (1650m), Kai & Kofu Cities, Yamanashi Prefecture, Saturday, November 9, 2024

I wanted to do another hike in the mountains of Yamanashi, as well as get some more views of Mt Fuji; I also wanted to go driving one last time before the mountains roads closed for winter. I decided to head to the southwestern Oku-Chichibu mountains, last visited in 2017 when I climbed Mt Kaya. Last year, I had planned, but not done, a hike in that area, a roundtrip to two neighbouring peaks of the Kurofuji volcanic group. They were featured in my guidebook but with a different route up the northeast side that was no longer used; for my hike, I’d go up and down the same route via Hatcho Pass on the southwest side.

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To get to the trail entrance, I’d take the Chuo line limited express to Kofu, and then, since Kai city buses only run to the area on weekdays, drive a share car to a parking spot near Kurofuji Farm. The weather was supposed to be sunny with mild temperatures, usual for this time of the year. As to the mountain name Kurofuji (“black Fuji”), apparently when seen from its neighbour peak on the north side, it looks like a dark version of Mt Fuji (also visible in the background). I was looking forward to seeing this effect with my own eyes, as well as enjoying the autumn colours, which I hoped would now be at their best.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Autumn Colours and Blue Sky just below Hacho-toge

Larches and Grass on the way to Kurofuji

It was a perfect autumn day as I arrived in Kofu around 10am. After locating my share car, it took about an hour to drive to the small parking area near the start of the hike. After getting ready, I finally set off just as the noon chime was ringing. After walking past Kurofuji Farm, I left the paved road for a signposted trail on the right. I soon found myself walking up a narrow valley along a mountain stream, the rushing sound of water soothing the mind. At one point, I saw a white deer skull on the ground. After crossing the stream on a flimsy log bridge, I passed a couple of hikers heading down, the only other people I saw on today’s hike.

View of Mt Fuji from the South Side of Kurofuji

Southwest Oku-Chichibu with Mt Obina (center)

I was surprised by how quickly the trail became hard to follow; even with my phone GPS, I found myself off the path a couple of times. Fortunately, since it simply followed the valley all the way to the top of this ancient crater, I was soon back on track. About an hour after setting off, I reached a steeper, rockier area, a sure sign that was nearing the rim. The beautiful scenery of yellow leaves with a blue sky background slowed me down a bit, but at 1h30, I reached Hacho-toge (八丁峠) where I turned right along a well-trodden and gently rising trail, mixed forest giving way to tall larches.

Mt Magari (left), Yatsugatake (back) & Mt Masugata (right) from Kurofuji

Mt Mizugaki (left), Mt Kinpu (center) & Mt Kokushi (right) from Kurofuji

This was perhaps the nicest part of the hike, the evenly spaced larches and grassy terrain giving an impression of wide open space, even though the trees had already lost most of their needles. I was reminded that I was now inside the western edge of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. After a short while, I was again climbing through bare trees and over rocky terrain, and at 2pm, reached the summit of Kurofuji (黒富士くろふじ), a hundred famous mountain of Yamanashi. I could see the South Alps and Mt Kaya to the southwest, but the other directions were blocked by trees. My guidebook mentioned that a better view could be had just below the highest point so I headed down a path on the south side leading to a superb viewpoint at the top of a cliff.

Kurofuji (left) and Mt Fuji (right) from the trail for Mt Masugata

Yatsugatake (left) and Mt Meshimori (right) from Mt Masugata

I carefully sat on a rocky ledge with a small, gnarly pine at my back, keeping a safe distance from the edge. From my perch, I could see Mt Fuji directly ahead; against the sun, it appeared as a black triangle, and I couldn’t tell whether the first snow of the season had fallen. To its right, were the Central Alps, and to its left were the Oku-Chichibu mountains, Mt Obina being the sole recognisable peak. After a short lunch break, I retraced my steps, and followed the summit ridge to another breathtaking viewpoint on the north side, on top of some large rocks protruding from the mountain side.

Mt Kinpu from Mt Masugata

The Oku-Chichibu Mountains from the top of Mt Masugata

Standing on top of one of these rocks, I was astounded by the golden colours covering the mountains sides directly below, patches of grey indicating that the leaves were already past their peak at this elevation. I could see Mt Magari and Mt Marugata, and between them, Yastugatake in the far distance. Turning to the north side, I could see some of the highest summits of the Oku-Chichibu mountains: Mt Mizugaki, Mt Kinpu and Mt Kokushi. Amazingly, the area in-between has almost no hiking trails and few access roads, one of the few wild places in the Tokyo area. I was starting to fall behind schedule so I pulled myself away from the view and headed back the same way; I soon arrived at the intersection for today’s next peak, where I turned right. As I walked up the grassy path, Kurofuji suddenly came into view on the right side.

“Black Fuji” view from the Summit of Mt Masugata

Kurofuji with Mt Fuji in the background

I was excited to already have a view of “black fuji” even before reaching the second summit; viewed from the north side, the conical shape of Kurofuji was nearly entirely in the shade. To its right, I could see the top of Mt Fuji popping up through the clouds; in foreground, golden “susuki” swayed in the light breeze. I continued at a fast pace up the switchback trail, and at 3pm, reached the base of a huge rock. A quick scramble up some natural steps brought me to the narrow, flat top of Mt Masugata (升形山ますがたやま masugata-yama), the name meaning shaped like a “masu” (a square wooden box used for drinking sake), an apt description for this summit.

Late Afternoon Light just before Hatcho Pass

Late Atfernoon Light just after Hatcho Pass

I was glad to have the summit to myself, as there wasn’t much space on top of the “masu“; I could also enjoy the breathtaking 360° view in perfect silence. To the west was Mt Yatsugatake; on the north side, I could see Mt Kinpu; and finally, turning southwards, was the view of Kurofuji with Mt Fuji in the background. It was only partially dark; perhaps a different time or season is needed for a full blackout. It was now 3h30, so I carefully got off the “masu” and quickly made my way back to Hacho Pass and then down the steep valley. The Autumn colours were even more beautiful in the late afternoon light and the trail was easier to follow on the return even after the sun had dipped below the ridgeline. Shortly before recrossing the stream, I spotted a white antler on the ground, to complement the skull I saw on the way up. At 4h30 I was back at my car, and by 5pm, I was on my way back to Kofu city just as it was getting dark.

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Mt Obatake (1117m) & Mt Hiru (1280m), Ichikawa-misato Town, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 3, 2024

I had wanted to visit Shibireko Lake ever since I’d found out about it from the Yuru Camp anime. Looking online, I recently found out that it was possible to hike from the lake to a nearby mountain with a view of Mt Fuji. Along the way, it was also possible to make a short detour to another summit with a view of the Kofu basin. Outside these two viewpoints, the hike was mostly in the trees, perfect for seeing the autumn leaves, hopefully at their peak. The hike, up and down the same way, was on the short side, ideal for the shorter days of Autumn.

Hiking in the Misaka Mountains 御坂山地

To reach the start of the trail, I’d ride the Chuo line Limited Express to Kofu, and then drive the rest of the way, as there is no public transport to the lake. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures warm for the season. I was looking forward to seeing Mt Fuji with new snow on its summit and hoped that, although the lake was no longer a secret due to the recent camping boom, the trail would still be relatively unknown.

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Minami Alps (left), Yatsugatake (back center) & Kofu Basin from Mt Obatake

Yatsugatake (left), Oku-Chichibu (right) & Kofu Basin from Obatakeyama

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the limited express, arriving at Kofu station at 1030. By 11am, I was driving south, towards the South Alps, still completely free of snow. Shortly after noon, I pulled into the large parking lot belonging to Sumeiso Lodge, also available to day-trippers for a small fee; I had passed almost no cars during the drive up the two-lane Shibireko-koen line, a good sign for today’s hike. After getting ready, I set off at 1230, walking up the mountain side and away from the lake, hidden from view by the thick forest.

Narrow Section of the Hirugatake Trail

Sun Shining through the Trees Halfway to Hirugatake

It was a steep but short climb to the ridgetop, where I turned left along a level trail. At 1pm, I emerged onto the flat top of Mt Obatake (大畠山 oobatakeyama), with a bench and a view on the west side, as well as a telecommunication tower. I could see the South Alps, Yatsugatake and the Oku-Chichibu mountains; directly below, was the triangular-shaped Kofu Basin (kofu-bonchi), the urban sprawl running right up to the base of the mountains and the blue ribbon of the Kamanashi river splitting it in half. I settled on the summit bench for a thirty-minute lunch break then retraced my steps to the ridgetop intersection.

Snowless Fuji from the Summit of Hirugatake

Mt Fuji (left), Mt Ryu (center) & Mt Kenashi (right) from Hirugatake

I was relieved to see that this trail was still a well-kept secret as I saw few hikers along the way. The trail alternated between level and gently climbing sections; a couple of narrow traverses required careful walking. The Autumn leaves were still turning at this elevation but the surrounding forest was beautiful. A little after 2pm, I reached Nishikata Pass (西肩峠) where I turned left for the final climb to the summit. At 2h30, I was standing at the top of Mt Hiru (蛾ヶ岳ひるがたけ hirugatake meaning Mt Moth), a Yamanashi 100-famous mountain. Although the name sounds the same as the highest peak of the Tanzawa mountains, it’s written with a different Chinese character.

Closeup of Mt Fuji from Hirugatake

Autumn Colours at their Peak around the Top of Hirugatake

I was stunned to see that Mt Fuji still was completely snowless. However, its perfect cone on a blue sky background was beautiful even without its trademark white cap. To its right, I could see Mt Ryu and the long summit ridge of Mt Kenashi, with splendid autumn colours in the foreground; on the west side, I had a view similar to the one from the previous peak, but from a higher vantage point; I could also see the ridgeline I had walked between today’s two mountains. After a short break on the summit bench, enjoying the gorgeous view all by myself, I headed back down the same way.

Mt Kenashi from Hirugatake

The Minami Alps from Hirugatake

I enjoyed the solitary stroll back through the forest, the scenery looking slightly different in reverse. Through gaps in the trees, I had views of the Misaka mountains on the north side. One hour later, I was back at the nearly empty parking lot. Since I still had half an hour before sunset, I decided to quickly walk around Shibireko Lake (四尾連湖) before heading back.

Walking back to Shibireko Lake

Walking around Shibireko Lake

I was surprised to see that the campsite extended around the entire south half of the lake; some spots almost felt like wild camping. Even at dusk, people were still rowing boats across the lake. Half an hour later, I had completed my tour. After checking out the Yuru Camp related exhibits inside Sumeiso Lodge, I hurried back to my share car for the one hour drive back to Kofu station. There I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Tokyo.

Shibireko Sumeiso Lodge

After Sunset at Shibireko Lake

The entire hike, including the lake loop, took about 4 hours. The view from the top of Mt Hiru was much better than I had imagined and deserves a place among the best mountain tops to view Mt Fuji. The hiking trail extends west from Mt Obatake and east from Mt Hiru and I hope to explore them one day in the future. This was my third Yuru Camp inspired hike, the first two being Takapotchi Highland and Hottarakashi Onsen. This was also my first proper sighting of Mt Fuji since Mt Sasagogangaharasuri in January of this year, and hopefully not the last one!

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Mt Zebra (1776m) & Mt Washi (1798m), Shimosuwa town, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, October 20, 2024

I had been to the Kirigamine Highlands about eight years ago so I felt it was time for another visit. Back then, I had rented a car from Kofu and summited the highest point, Mt Kuruma, a 100 famous mountain of Japan; this time, I decided to go by bus and up a couple of minor peaks on both sides of the Yashimagara Marsh. I was hoping to catch the autumn colours at their peak, at the risk of encountering crowds of people.

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To get the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express to Kami-Suwa, a little over 2 hours from Shinjuku, and there, catch an Alpico bus for Kuruma Highland; I’d use the same bus for the return. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day but cold for the season. On top of the autumn scenery, I was looking forward to getting some good views of the mountains of Nagano.

Hiking in the Kirigamine Highlands

霧ヶ峰高原

Hiking in the Yatsugatake-Chūshin Kōgen Quasi-National Park 八ヶ岳中信高原国定公園

Autumn Colours at Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

View towards Kuruma Kogen

It was a surprisingly cloudy day as I rode the limited express towards Nagano, although the updated weather forecast announced that the clouds would melt away by noon. It felt really cold as I got off at Yashimagara-shitsugen (八島ヶ原湿原), after a 45-minute ride on a packed bus. I popped into the Yashima Visitor Center to check out the exhibits and warm up, before heading to the wooden walkway circling the marshland at 11am, under leaden skies.

Kuruma Kogen from Mt Zebra

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh from Mt Zebra

I was glad to see that autumn colours were on schedule, despite the warmer than average temperatures of the past few weeks, somewhat muted due to the overcast sky. I set off at a brisk pace to warm up, counter-clockwise around the marshland; I passed by the Okugiri Hut around noon, now walking under blue skies. I followed the main trail for Mt Kuruma for a short while before turning left onto a small path leading to today’s first summit.

Heading back to Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

Heading towards Mt Washi

I felt energised by the shining sun, enabling me to keep a fast pace up the mountain, reaching the top of Mt Zebra (ゼブラ山 zebura-yama also known as Mt Omekura 男女倉山おめくらやま) at 12h30. Apparently melting snow in the spring looks likes Zebra stripes. I could see the crown of Mt Tateshina rising above the grasslands of Kuruma Highland; looking north, I could see the flat top of Utsukushigahara, and the long ridgeline connecting it to Kirigamine. Looking south, I could see the highest points of Mt Ontake, the Central and South Alps floating above the clouds; directly below, was Yashimagahara Marsh.

Approaching Kama Pond on Yashima-ga-Hara

Oni-no-sensui Pond on Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

I was stunned by the bird’s eye view of the rusty red marsh. I hurried down the same way, feeling warm under the midday sun, and was soon back on the marsh-side walkway. After passing Kama and Oni-no-sensui Ponds, I reached an open area with a view of the entire marsh, as well as the rolling hills of Kuruma Highland in the background. At 1h30, I turned left onto a hiking trail, leaving the marsh behind. After a short climb, I reached the trailhead for today’s second peak.

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh and Kuruma Kogen

Start of the Hike for Mt Washi

I was surprised by the alpine beauty of the surrounding landscape as I made my way up the rocky path though pines, especially since I was on a day trip from Tokyo. Very soon, I had another bird’s eye view of the marsh, this time with the highest peaks of the Yatsugatake range visible in the background. To its right was the Yashima Visitor Center, and looming up directly behind it, was the outline of the South Alps, now nearly completely free of clouds.

View of Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh from the Mt Washi Trail

The Yashima Visitor Center and the South Alps

It was short but pleasant hike along the top ridge with sweeping views on both sides. Shortly after 2pm, I arrived at the summit of Mt Washi (鷲ヶ峰わしがみね washigamine). The name could translate as “Eagle Peak” and the panorama certainly made me feel like an eagle soaring high in the sky. Looking north, I could now see the rounded top of Mt Asama, as well as the flat top of Mt Arafune; westwards, in addition to Utsukushigahara, I could also see Mt Hachibuse, and in the far distance, poking out of the clouds, Mt Hotaka, Mt Tsurugi and Mt Shirouma, three famous peaks from the North Alps.

Mt Tateshina from the Mt Washi Trail

Ridgeline leading to Mt Washi

Looking south, I was most impressed by the view of Suwa lake with the Central Alps in the background, against the sun so challenging to take in photo. Suwa lake inspired the lake in the Your Name movie so I was glad to see it from above. Between the Yatsugatake range and the South Alps, I was surprised to spot the conical summit of Mt Fuji, rising from the clouds. After a short lunch break, I headed back the same way.

View of Suwa Lake from Mt Washi

Yatsugatake from Mt Washi

Mt Fuji between Yatsugatake and the South Alps

I had fantastic views of the entire range of the Yatsugatake range doing the path in reverse. After one last look at the triangular shape of Yashimagahara Marsh, I made my way down the last part of the trail, arriving back at the Yashima Visitor Center a little before 3h30, well on time for the return bus. One hour later, I was at Suwa station where I could take a foot bath directly on the platform while waiting for the limited express that would whisk me back to Tokyo.

Heading back to the Yashima Visitor Center

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh and Yatsugatake

This hike took about 4 hours, shorter than expected, giving me plenty of time to enjoy the stunning views. I passed fewer people than expected, maybe because the area is more famous for its spring and summer flowers. I felt lucky with the timing of the Autumn leaves and the excellent weather. I’d like to return to the area in the future to hike more of the ridgeline towards Utsukushigahara, although I’d probably have to rent a car for this.

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Mt Takao (599m), Hachioji City, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, June 9, 2024

I wanted to do a late afternoon hike to take advantage of the longer days of June. I decided to head to Mt Takao in the hope that most people would be on the way home by then. It would be my first visit in a while since lately I’ve preferred the less popular peaks. Although I’d been to the top about a dozen times it would be my first time in June. Looking at the English map on the Mt Takao official site, I chose to go up Trail 6 and down Trails 4, 2 & 1. If I finished early enough, I could enjoy a hot spring bath before heading back.

Hiking in the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park

明治の森高尾国定公園

I would ride the Keio line limited express from Shinjuku to Takaosan-guchi, and use the same train for the return. The weather was supposed to be overcast and dry with temperatures cool for the season but comfortable for hiking. I was looking forward to my first late afternoon hike in 2 years and revisiting a familiar place. The cloudy weather meant views would be scarce but I hoped the new green of spring would make the trip worthwhile.

As of july 2025, the Inariyama trail is closed for repair. Consequently, trail #6 (described in this post) has been changed to a one-way ascending-only trail to prevent accidents and traffic jams due to overcrowding. This restriction in in place all day; trail running (in either direction) is also prohibited. In other words, it’s not possible to hike down this trail for the time being (no end date to the restriction has been given). Multiple signs in Japanese and English have been placed at the bottom and top of the trail, as well as long other trails. Please take this into account when planning your hike.

Start of Trail #6 (left) Before the Inariyama Trail Connecting Path (right)

Walking on Water past the Inariyama Trail Connection Path (left & right)

It was a grey day as I rode the mostly empty limited express from Shinjuku, arriving at Takoasan-guchi station a little after 4pm. I passed countless people heading home as I made my way from the train station to the cable car station, the starting point for most of the hiking paths. As I started up trail #6 on a paved road alongside a river, the cable car thundered by overhead; I would not be riding it today as the last one was scheduled for 6pm, well before the end of today’s hike.

River Section of Trail #6 (left) Steps at the Top of Trail #6 (right)

Looking Back at the Steps of Trail #6 (left) Heading Down Trail #4 (right)

I was surprised by the volume of water in the river, considerably more than during my previous visit in the winter months. The number of descending hikers became less and less, and past Oyama Bridge, I had the trail mostly to myself. I was impressed by the height of the cedar trees along the river valley, a reminder that I was inside the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park. Shortly after 5pm, I reached a connecting path with the Inariyama Trail (#1) but continued straight along trail #6.

Walking Down Trail #4 (left) Steps Down Trail #4 (right)

Crossing the Suspension Bridge (left) Near the End of Trail #4 (right)

The trail turned into a stream without warning, the overflow probably due to the heavy rain from the previous days. I hadn’t expected to be walking in water and it was hard to believe I was right at the edge of Tokyo. Eventually, the trail left the river valley, heading straight up the mountain side. The steep ascent was aided by wooden steps, a fairly recent addition. Soon I reached a flat area just before trail #5, a short path encircling the summit. At 5h30, I was standing on the top of Mt Takao, eerily quiet in the early evening.

Wooden Steps on the Higher Sections of Mt Takao

Mt Fuji hidden in the Clouds

It was a rare sight to see the top of Mt Takao empty of people. I made my way to the viewpoint on the south side but today Mt Fuji was mostly hidden in the clouds. After a short break, I made my way down Trail #4 on the other side of the mountain. Many sections were fitted with steps making it easy to walk even as the daylight was swiftly fading. At 6pm, I arrived at a suspension bridge, partially hidden by green tree branches. Before the junction of Trail #4 with the road leading down from the summit, I ducked down Trail #2 for some more forest walking. At 6h30, I reached the now deserted top station of the Takao cable car.

Suspension Bridge Hidden by Tree Branches

Walking a Level Section of Trail #4

I spent a few moments enjoying the quiet atmosphere of what is usually a very busy place, before heading down trail #1, a steep road shared with authorized cars. I walked at a fast pace, overtaking the few people still left, and less than half an hour later, was back at my starting point. At 7pm, I entered the Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu (京王高尾山温泉極楽湯), right next to train station and last visited in December 2023. After a refreshing hot spring bath, I hopped onto the Keio limited express train for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Jinba (854m) & Mt Arashi (406m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, February 24, 2024

I wanted to hike a section of the Tokai Nature Trail close to Tokyo which I hadn’t done before. The trail started a short bus ride from Sagamihara Station and ended near a bus stop on the same line, as well as a hot spring. The hike was on the short side, so I decided to tag on a mountain I had climbed nearly ten years ago; looking at my map, I saw I could redo it via a different set of trails. I would take the shortest route up from Wada, a short bus ride from Fujino station on the Chuo line, and walk down to Sagamihara station, passing a couple of minor summits on the way.

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

Hiking in the Takao-Jinba Natural Park 都立高尾陣場自然公園

The whole area is a popular hiking spot with well-maintained trails, so although it had snowed the previous day, I was confident it would be easy to walk; I also knew from my previous visit that the summit had a spectacular view of Mt Fuji. The weather was supposed to be sunny, with temperatures slightly above freezing. I was looking forward to a rare winter hike with a Fuji view from the highest point and a hot spring bath at the end.

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Number 2 Wada Ridge Route without (left) and with Snow (right)

Walking the Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (left) & the Kanto Fureai no Michi (right)

Before (left) and after (right) the summit of Ya-no-Ne

Just past Ohira Hut (left) & Just before Yose Shrine (right)

Heading Up (left) and Down Mt Arashi (right)

I could see patches of blue sky as I rode the almost full bus from Fujino station around 9am. Most people got off at the main trail entrance, and surprisingly, I was the only person heading up the Number 2 Wada Ridge Route (和田第二尾根コース), shortly before 10am. Looking up, I could see the higher slopes, white with snow before disappearing into the clouds. Less than half an hour later, the scenery changed from dull brown to brilliant white. Contrary to the forecast, the sun remained hidden behind a grey cloud cover, allowing the white mantle to last a little longer.

First snow on the Number 2 Wada Ridge Route

Fallen Log near the Junction with the Ichi-no-O Ridge Route

I was amazed by the beautiful wintery surroundings, the wet snow clinging to any surface that wasn’t completely vertical. Melting snow falling gently from the tree branches enhanced the effect, its falling noise reminiscent of soft rain. After merging with the Ichi-no-O Ridge Trail (一ノ尾尾根コース), I saw more people walking through this winter wonderland. At the top of a staircase, I reached the top of Mt Jinba (陣馬山じんばさん jinba-san), a Kanto 100-famous mountain, shortly after 11am. The view of Mt Fuji on the south side was hidden by thick clouds, but the frozen landscape was compensation enough.

Walking through a Winter Wonderland

Cloudy View from the Top of Mt Jinba

I was stunned by the nearly completely white trees on the north side of the summit. Beyond their frosty crowns, I could see the Kanto Plain, as well as the eastern edge of the Takao mountain range. After a short break, I set off again, now following the Kanto Fureai no Michi. I was walking on the snow, but since any sloping sections had steps, it always felt perfectly safe. I was glad to be wearing a wide-brim hat, as it protected me from snow falling from the trees. A little after noon, I arrived at Myou Pass (明王峠) where I left the Fureai no Michi, and headed down a series of steps southwards.

White Trees on the North Side of Mt Jinba

In the Background, the Eastern Edge of the Takao Range

I was once again walking on solid ground although snow still covered the trunks and branches of the bare trees; it was like walking through a Christmas displayed created with snow spray. Thirty minutes later, I went left at a fork in the trail. Very soon, I reached the top of Yanone (矢ノ音 633m), completely in the trees. I immediately headed down a precipitous trail on the left side, and soon reached Ohira Hut (大平小屋), actually an open shelter. After a short break, I continued on my way, on a level trail though a forest of tall cedars. On the way, I made a short detour via Mt Mago (孫山 543m). After some descending, I reached a viewpoint on the southeastern side.

A little bit of Autumn in the Wintery Landscape

Snow Coated Trees at Lower Elevations

I enjoyed the view of the majestic bulk of Mt Sekiro rising directly behind Sagami Lake; to its left, was Mt Arashi, today’s next peak, and Sagamihara City. Since it was 2pm, I had a late lunch before setting off again. I soon reached Yose Shrine, at the base of the mountain, and shortly after, Sagamiko Station. There, I hopped on a bus for the short ride to Sagamiko Bridge, a few minutes on foot from the Tokai Nature Trail. After thirty minutes of easy climbing, I arrived at the summit of Mt Arashi (嵐山あらしやま arashi-yama), meaning Mount Storm. On the west side, I could see Mt Momokura, Mt Ogiyama and Mt Gongen, but the view was rather subdued on this cloudy, wintery day.

Descending from Mt Mago

Viewpoint of Sagami Lake and Mt Sekiro

I was surprised by the up and down nature of the trail beyond the summit. I crossed tiny streams over narrow wooden bridges and scaled thin metal ladders up steep slopes. At 4pm, I crossed a dense and dark bamboo forest, always a fascinating experience for me. Less then half an hour later, I finally reached a road at the end of the trail. After a refreshing hot bath at Ururi Onsen, part of the Sagamiko Resort Pleasure Forest, I caught a bus for the ten-minute ride back to Sagamiko Station, where I boarded the Chuo line for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

View of Mr Arashi (left) and Mt Sekiro (right ) from below Yose Shrine

Bamboo Forest on the Tokai Nature Trail

The hike was longer and harder than I had expected, over 6 hours, so I was glad I could recover at a hot spring at the end. On the other hand, the snowy scenery far exceeded my expectations, thanks to the cloudy cover shielding the sticky snowy tree decorations from the sun and preserving them throughout the day. The snowmelt dripping from the trees was also a new experience for me, as I was walking under sunshine and snowfall at the same time. I encountered many other hikers between Ichi-no-O Ridge and Myou Pass, but very few before and after. I hope to return in the future to explore the other trails crisscrossing the Takao mountain range.

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Mt Sasago-Gangaharasuri (1358m), Otsuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Saturday, January 6, 2024

I wanted to see Mt Fuji on my first hike of the year. I had already climbed this peak, just over 10 years ago. Back then, I had made a long loop, along a hard to follow trail on the south side. I was inspired to redo this mountain thanks to a JR East hiking map showing a shorter loop hike: up the same way, but down a different trail on the east side, and passing by a giant cedar tree. I would take the Chuo limited express to Ostuki, and then continue by bus to the trailhead. I would have to leave relatively early to catch the sole morning bus. For the return, I could catch the only mid-afternoon bus back, or walk downhill to Sasago station, a couple of kilometers away, and a short ride on the local Chuo line to Otsuki. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, meaning Fuji would be clearly visible. The temperatures would be lower than on my December trips, and I hoped it wouldn’t get too cold above 1000 meters. I was looking forward to my first hike and Fuji views of 2024.

Hiking in the Misaka Mountains 御坂山地

Hiking along the Chuo Line 中央線

Descent from the Summit (left) Ridge Trail to Sasago Pass (right)

Walking the Ridge Trail (left) Steps for Sasago Pass (right)

It was still very cold after I got off the bus just after 9am, near the entrance of Sasago tunnel. I found a sunny bench opposite the start of the trail and slowly got ready. A little after 9h30, I set off up a valley, walking in the shade of the cedars. At 10am, I reached an electric pylon out of the trees and with a view southeast towards Mt Tsurugatoya. I continued east, up a ridgeline within a valley enclosed on three sides. At 11am, I spotted the white top of Mt Fuji above the southern side. Shortly after, I was blasted by a biting cold wind blowing over the eastern ridgeline from the Kofu basin. Through the trees, I also had a glimpse of the South Alps, the highest peaks capped in snow. I found a sheltered spot and bundled up. At 1130, I reached an open space near a reflector.

Back into the Sun just below the Electric Pylon

Following the Ridgeline to the Summit

Turning around I had the best view of the day: directly south was the white cone of Mt Fuji, shining in the midday sun; to the southeast, I could see Mt Imakura, the 4th highest peak of the Doshi mountains, as well as Mt Omuro in the Tanzawa mountains. A few more minutes of climbing brought me to the summit of Mt Sasago-Gangaharasuri (笹子雁ヶ腹摺山ささごがんがはらすりやま sasagogangaharasuriyama), a Yamanashi 100-famous mountain and one of the 12 beautiful views of Mt Fuji (秀麗富嶽十二景). Through the bare trees on the southwest side, I spotted Mt Houou, Mt Kita and Mt Aino, some of the main peaks of the South Alps, before they were engulfed by the clouds.

Last Stretch before the Summit

Checking out the Trail for Mt Komezawa

I was surprised to see traces of snow on the path leading northwards towards Mt Komezawa, in the opposite direction of my hike. I sat down on a bench near the summit marker, facing the sun and Mt Fuji, for an early lunch; about half a kilometer below was the busy Sasago Tunnel. The wind had died down but it was still chilly, and around noon, I set off again, down a steep path, heading west along the narrow ridge separating the Kofu and Otsuki valleys. The path soon became level. After passing a second pylon, I arrived at a fork in the trail, where I took the the “ridge route” on the right. According to my map, it would join up with the “new route” on the left, shortly before Sasago pass.

Following the Ridgeline to Sasago Pass

View Northwest of the Okuchichibu Mountains

I was glad with my choice since I was rewarded by views of Mt Koshu-Takao, Mt Konara, Mt Daibosatsurei, and Mt Okuratakamaru to my right, and glimpses of Mt Fuji to my left. Since I was well on schedule, I took my time peering at the views between the leafless trees. Soon after the two routes merged, I arrived at the third pylon of the day, beyond which the trail headed down a series of steps ending at Sasago Pass (笹子峠) completely in the trees. It was nearly 2pm, and the sun had just dipped behind the ridge rising steeply on the opposite side. I turned left down a shaded valley, and soon reached a road at the end of the old Sasago tunnel (Sasago-zuido 笹子隧道). I followed the road for a short while before getting back on the hiking trail. I soon arrived at Yatate-no-Sugi (矢立の杉), a giant cedar tree, and one of the 100 famous trees of Yamanashi.

Leafless Trees along the Ridge Trail

Heading Down from Sasago Pass

I spent a few minutes gazing at the thousand-year-old tree, nearly 30 meters high, its crown lost from sight, before leaving the viewing platform. After crossing Sasago River on a couple of wooden bridges, the trail widened and hugged the steep mountain side; the valley was bathed in sun again and the rushing river could be heard below on the right. After another short road section, I rejoined the trail again, this time the river on my left side. At 3pm, I reached a gate, beyond which was the main road and the bus stop. It was too early for the bus so I speed walked back to the Sasago station so that I could get the 3h30 train for Otsuki. There, I transferred to the limited express for the comfortable one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Wooden Bridge Crossing over Sasago River

Wide Trail in the Sun above Sasago River

Although the whole hike took six me hours, I did it at a fairly leisurely pace, hoping to match my arrival time with the return bus, but ended up an hour too early. In warmer weather it might be possible to take longer breaks but this is definitely a hike that should be done in the winter months; otherwise the views will be blocked by the leaves. The hike can be extended north or south along the ridgeline, but there are big up and downs on both sides, requiring more time and energy. I saw only one other hiker and he told me he had seen a bear run away, up the steep slope on the other side of Sasago river, barely seconds before I caught up with him. It seems like this bear had been spotted before and may the reason for the absence of other hikers, so a bear bell or other noise-emitting device would also be a good idea.