Hiking Around Tokyo

Shirakoma & Ama Ponds (Highest Point 2241m), Chino City and Sakuho Town, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, October 27, 2024

I had last visited the Northern Yatsugatake Mountains 6 years ago. This time, I wanted to check out two small lakes above 2000m and situated between Mt Tengu and Mt Kitayoko; I also wanted to explore the “Moss Path” near Mugikusa Pass. I’d start from the top of the Kita-Yatsugatake ropeway and walk counterclockwise around Mt Shimagare and Mt Chausu, climbed 10 years ago. Back then I stayed overnight at the Shimagare Lodge. However, in October the ropeway operated till 5pm, late enough for a day trip.

Hiking in the Yatsugatake-Chushin Kogen Quasi-National Park 八ヶ岳中信高原国定公園

Hiking on Kita-Yatsugatake 北八ヶ岳

To get to the start of my hike, I’d take the Chuo line limited express to Chino station and then catch an Alpico bus for the 40-minute ride to the ropeway; I’d use the same route for the return. The weather was supposed to be mostly cloudy, but no rain was forecast, maybe even a little sunshine in the late morning. I decided to head out as the next weekend the ropeway would run only till 4pm; also my main purpose was to see the lakes and mossy undergrowth. I was looking forward to what would probably be the last high-altitude hike of the year.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

The hiking trails followed on this hike can be found on the Japanwilds map for Mt Shimagare and Mt Chausu, available for free with the Avenza app

Forest Bathing Observation Deck Route from the Kita-Yatsugatake Ropeway (left) Moss Path in the Yatsugatake Nature Recreation Forest (right)

Moss Path in Onodachi Forest (left) Walkway in Kokuyo Forest (right)

The sun was still shining as I rode the limited express to Chino, arriving there a little past 9am. From the bus, I could see the autumn colours around Tateshina lake, and I made a mental note to plan a hike there next year. Shortly after 10am, I was standing inside the full ropeway cabin (fits 100 people) as it rose from 1800m to over 2200m. After getting ready, I took a few minutes to enjoy the view of the South and Central Alps from the outside terrace; directly behind was the rounded top of Mt Shimagare.

Shirakoma Inner Garden (left) Walkway through Chamizu Forest (right)

The Ogawara Pass Forest Road (left) Walkway to Ama-ike Pond (right)

The mists had started to roll in, Mt Kitayoko and Mt Tateshina were already hidden in thick clouds. I set off before the next load of ropeway passengers arrived at 11am, and made my way along the Forest Bathing Observation Deck Route (森林浴展望台コース shinrinnyoku tenbodai kosu). I had done this route before but in reverse. I soon reached an open space where I had a view of the grassy highland of Kirigamine. After 11am, I passed the observation deck, the view partly obscured by trees, and left the wooden walkway for a proper hiking trail.

Walkway to Ama-ike Pond (left) Path for Amaike-toge (right)

Before Amaike-toge (right) After Amaike-toge (left)

The trail was rockier than I had remembered and my progress was slower than expected. At 1130, just past the Go-Tsuji intersection, I arrived at an open rest place opposite a beautiful bright orange larch, one of the few autumn leaves I saw on today’s hike. Soon after, I entered the Yatsugatake Nature Recreation Forest (八ヶ岳自然休養林 Yatsugatake shizen-kyuyo-rin) and I found myself walking through an enchanting forest with mossy undergrowth, the path now aptly named “Koke no Michi” (苔の道) or the Moss Path. Around this point, today’s hike diverged from the one I had done ten years ago.

Central Alps from the Top of the Kita-Yatsugatake Ropeway

Start of the Shinrinyoku Tenbodai Route

I was amazed by the sheer amount of bright green moss covering everything close to the ground; perhaps there was more than usual due to the higher than average rainfall this year. At noon, I crossed the busy Marchen Road connecting Chino city with Sakuho town, and continued along the Moss Path, now inside the Mist Garden (狭霧園地 sagiri-enchi), although no mist was hanging around at the time. After a short climb, I arrived at Onodachi Forest (斧断ちの森), mostly made up of slender birches.

Walking through the Mist Garden

Passing through Onodachi Forest

I enjoyed the combined effect of the white birch trunks and light green moss on my solitary stroll through the higher reaches of the Yatsugatake-Chushin Kogen Quasi-National Park (八ヶ岳中信高原国定公園). At 1230, I passed the bright red roof of the Mugikusa Hut; beyond, the top of Mt Chausu was temporarily free of clouds. I turned left onto a side trail leading through Kokuyo Forest (黒曜の森), the name referring to a dark green coloured moss. I then exited the forest and entered the Shirakoma Inner Garden (白駒中庭), blue patches appearing in the sky above, giving me hope for the afternoon.

Following the Moss Path

Entering the Shirakoma Inner Garden

I was thankful for the wooden walkway allowing me an easy passage above a tangle of rocks and creeping pine (這い松). After a short up and down through Shirakoma Forest, I finally arrived at Shirakoma Pond (白駒池). It was past 1pm so I took a lunch break inside a pond-side open shelter. Here, I had rejoined the crowds so I decided to skip a walk around the pond, and quickly headed back to Marchen Road which I followed to Mugikusa Pass. There, I ducked down a small trail on the right, leading through Chamizu Forest (茶水の森), all by myself once again.

Beyond is Shirakoma Forest and Shirakoma Pond

Grey Clouds above Shirakoma-ike Pond

The clouds had wrestled back control of the skies and it started to look like it might rain after all; this was also the most isolated part of the hike through somber and silent forest. I quickened my pace and by 2pm reached the Ogawara Forest Road (大河原林道) although I left it shortly after for yet another walkway. Half an hour later, I reached the far side of Ama Pond (雨池), meaning rain pond. It was smaller than indicated on my map and most likely reaches its full size after heavy rain or the spring snowmelt.

Walkway to Ama-ike Pond

Far Side of Ama-ike Pond

I was startled by a loud barking noise and looking at the opposite shore, I saw deer jump away into the forest; I wasn’t alone after all. I was back on schedule so I decided to walk around this pond. On the other side, I had a better view of the blue pond water; above the trees on the opposite bank, low clouds were blowing by quickly, a sure sign of a change in weather. As I started to climb up through the forest, I suddenly caught sight of a majestic stag with huge antlers; it was standing guard while his doe escaped. I rejoined the forest road but soon turned left up a steep trail through thick forest.

Near Side of Ama-ike Pond

Mist on Amaike-toge

I found myself surrounded by swirling white mist as I emerged from the forest at Amaike Pass (雨池峠). It was now 3h30, leaving me ample time before the last ropeway. I followed the final walkway of the day, down a small valley past Shimagare Lodge where I spent the night ten years ago, merging with my previous hike in the area. At 4pm I was back at the top of the ropeway; half an hour later I was riding a mostly empty bus back to Chino station where I boarded the limited express for the 2-hour trip back to Tokyo.

The hiking trails followed on this hike can be found on the Japanwilds map for Mt Shimagare and Mt Chausu, available for free with the Avenza app

Watch a Video of the Shirakoma and Ama Ponds Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Zebra (1776m) & Mt Washi (1798m), Shimosuwa town, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, October 20, 2024

I had been to the Kirigamine Highlands about eight years ago so I felt it was time for another visit. Back then, I had rented a car from Kofu and summited the highest point, Mt Kuruma, a 100 famous mountain of Japan; this time, I decided to go by bus and up a couple of minor peaks on both sides of the Yashimagara Marsh. I was hoping to catch the autumn colours at their peak, at the risk of encountering crowds of people.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

To get the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express to Kami-Suwa, a little over 2 hours from Shinjuku, and there, catch an Alpico bus for Kuruma Highland; I’d use the same bus for the return. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day but cold for the season. On top of the autumn scenery, I was looking forward to getting some good views of the mountains of Nagano.

Hiking in the Kirigamine Highlands

霧ヶ峰高原

Hiking in the Yatsugatake-Chūshin Kōgen Quasi-National Park 八ヶ岳中信高原国定公園

Autumn Colours at Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

View towards Kuruma Kogen

It was a surprisingly cloudy day as I rode the limited express towards Nagano, although the updated weather forecast announced that the clouds would melt away by noon. It felt really cold as I got off at Yashimagara-shitsugen (八島ヶ原湿原), after a 45-minute ride on a packed bus. I popped into the Yashima Visitor Center to check out the exhibits and warm up, before heading to the wooden walkway circling the marshland at 11am, under leaden skies.

Kuruma Kogen from Mt Zebra

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh from Mt Zebra

I was glad to see that autumn colours were on schedule, despite the warmer than average temperatures of the past few weeks, somewhat muted due to the overcast sky. I set off at a brisk pace to warm up, counter-clockwise around the marshland; I passed by the Okugiri Hut around noon, now walking under blue skies. I followed the main trail for Mt Kuruma for a short while before turning left onto a small path leading to today’s first summit.

Heading back to Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

Heading towards Mt Washi

I felt energised by the shining sun, enabling me to keep a fast pace up the mountain, reaching the top of Mt Zebra (ゼブラ山 zebura-yama also known as Mt Omekura 男女倉山おめくらやま) at 12h30. Apparently melting snow in the spring looks likes Zebra stripes. I could see the crown of Mt Tateshina rising above the grasslands of Kuruma Highland; looking north, I could see the flat top of Utsukushigahara, and the long ridgeline connecting it to Kirigamine. Looking south, I could see the highest points of Mt Ontake, the Central and South Alps floating above the clouds; directly below, was Yashimagahara Marsh.

Approaching Kama Pond on Yashima-ga-Hara

Oni-no-sensui Pond on Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

I was stunned by the bird’s eye view of the rusty red marsh. I hurried down the same way, feeling warm under the midday sun, and was soon back on the marsh-side walkway. After passing Kama and Oni-no-sensui Ponds, I reached an open area with a view of the entire marsh, as well as the rolling hills of Kuruma Highland in the background. At 1h30, I turned left onto a hiking trail, leaving the marsh behind. After a short climb, I reached the trailhead for today’s second peak.

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh and Kuruma Kogen

Start of the Hike for Mt Washi

I was surprised by the alpine beauty of the surrounding landscape as I made my way up the rocky path though pines, especially since I was on a day trip from Tokyo. Very soon, I had another bird’s eye view of the marsh, this time with the highest peaks of the Yatsugatake range visible in the background. To its right was the Yashima Visitor Center, and looming up directly behind it, was the outline of the South Alps, now nearly completely free of clouds.

View of Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh from the Mt Washi Trail

The Yashima Visitor Center and the South Alps

It was short but pleasant hike along the top ridge with sweeping views on both sides. Shortly after 2pm, I arrived at the summit of Mt Washi (鷲ヶ峰わしがみね washigamine). The name could translate as “Eagle Peak” and the panorama certainly made me feel like an eagle soaring high in the sky. Looking north, I could now see the rounded top of Mt Asama, as well as the flat top of Mt Arafune; westwards, in addition to Utsukushigahara, I could also see Mt Hachibuse, and in the far distance, poking out of the clouds, Mt Hotaka, Mt Tsurugi and Mt Shirouma, three famous peaks from the North Alps.

Mt Tateshina from the Mt Washi Trail

Ridgeline leading to Mt Washi

Looking south, I was most impressed by the view of Suwa lake with the Central Alps in the background, against the sun so challenging to take in photo. Suwa lake inspired the lake in the Your Name movie so I was glad to see it from above. Between the Yatsugatake range and the South Alps, I was surprised to spot the conical summit of Mt Fuji, rising from the clouds. After a short lunch break, I headed back the same way.

View of Suwa Lake from Mt Washi

Yatsugatake from Mt Washi

Mt Fuji between Yatsugatake and the South Alps

I had fantastic views of the entire range of the Yatsugatake range doing the path in reverse. After one last look at the triangular shape of Yashimagahara Marsh, I made my way down the last part of the trail, arriving back at the Yashima Visitor Center a little before 3h30, well on time for the return bus. One hour later, I was at Suwa station where I could take a foot bath directly on the platform while waiting for the limited express that would whisk me back to Tokyo.

Heading back to the Yashima Visitor Center

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh and Yatsugatake

This hike took about 4 hours, shorter than expected, giving me plenty of time to enjoy the stunning views. I passed fewer people than expected, maybe because the area is more famous for its spring and summer flowers. I felt lucky with the timing of the Autumn leaves and the excellent weather. I’d like to return to the area in the future to hike more of the ridgeline towards Utsukushigahara, although I’d probably have to rent a car for this.

Watch Video of the Mt Zebra and Mt Washi Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

The Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (highest point 824m), Komoro City, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, October 13, 2024

I was looking for another hike in the Saku area since it had been one year since my previous visit. Searching online, I found a loop hike using parts of the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (Japanese only); it was mostly along small roads and country lanes, ideal for avoiding Jorogumo spiders that hang out along forested trails in the early Autumn. Another benefit of walking through the countryside in this season is to enjoy the scenery of golden rice fields, ready to be harvested. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm all day, welcome news after two consecutive cloudy weekends.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

I would start from Komoro station, a short ride on the Shinano Tetsudo line from Karuizawa, easily reachable via the Hokuriku shinkansen. Looking at Google Maps, I noticed I could end at Aguri no Yu and, after a relaxing hot bath, take a taxi back to the station. From there, I’d ride the Koumi line in the opposite direction, to Sakudaira, so that I could board the shinkansen before Karuizawa, after which the train is usually packed. Although I wouldn’t be summiting any peaks, I’d able to visit Komoro Castle Ruins and Shakuson-ji Temple along the way, and if the weather allows, enjoy the panoramic views of Mt Asama and Mt Yatsugatake.

Chikuma River from Komoro Castle

Chikuma River from the Keizo Koyama Art Museum

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the shinkansen from Tokyo, although Mt Asama was firmly in the clouds as the train pulled into Karuizawa station around 9am. I transferred to the Shinano Tetsudo line for the 20-minute ride to Komoro; I happened to catch the rapid service with reserved seating so I remained comfortably seated for the entire trip. After getting ready, I set off for the nearby Komoro-jo Castle shortly after 10am. After paying a small “strolling fee” (called sansakuken) for Kaikoen Park which surrounds the ruins, I walked past ancient stone walls to the Fujimi Observation Deck from where one can see Mt Fuji, although today the sky was too hazy for that. I had better luck with the Mizunote Observation Deck, from where I could gaze down at a bend of the Chikuma River, the longest river in Japan. After exiting the castle grounds, I made my way to the nearby Keizo Koyama Art Museum.

Downstream View of Chikuma River near Shakuson-ji

Upstream View of Chikuma River near Shakuson-ji

I had a breathtaking view of another bend of the Chikuma river, an impressive plateau rising on the opposite side; I felt excited that today’s hike would take me along its top part. I joined the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (浅間･八ヶ岳パノラマトレイル) just below the Art Museum garden. I followed a switchback trail through the forest, reaching a road at the valley bottom around 11am. After crossing Okubo Bridge, I followed back roads through a charming residential area, the way well-signposted throughout. After a short climb, I had a view of the base of Mt Asama, the top part still hidden in thick clouds. The path then descended and merged with a cliffside road running right next ro the river. Shortly after the noon chime, I arrived at the start of the trail heading up the plateau. After a 15-minute climb through the forest, cliffs towering on both sides, I reached Shakuson-ji Temple (釈尊寺) from where I had a view of Nunobiki Kannon (布引観音).

Approach to Nunobiki Kannon

Nunobuki Kannon from Shakuson-ji Temple

I was amazed by the view of small structure clinging to the cliffside, reminding me of Daifuku Temple. Soon after, I was standing on the wooden platform, gazing past the cliffs at the still cloudy Asama, trying not to look at the drop below. I continued my way up a winding road through the forest, at one point passing a snake taking a break in a sunny spot on its warm surface. A little after 1pm, I turned left onto a forest road near a frog-filled pond; I never saw any, just heard feeble croaks followed by tiny splashes as I approached. I was now walking along the top of the plateau, the surrounding forest hiding the views. At 1h30, I reached a road junction near a lake, and here I followed a lane to the highest point of today’s hike, a grassy spot above the fields. To the south and east, I could make out the hazy outlines of Mt Yatsugatake and the Chichibu mountains.

Golden Rice Fields at Mimakigahara Plateau

Mt Asama from Mimakigahara Plateau

I was surprised how warm it felt in the middle of October, not even a breeze to cool off. At 2pm, I set off again, now following a country lane as it curved around and over hills. Thirty minutes later I reached a wide open space used for rice cultivation: the Mimakigahara Plateau (mimakigaharadaichi 御牧ヶ原台地). Many fields had already been harvested, the rice stalks hanging on drying racks; however a few remained untouched, the golden stalks basking under the afternoon sun. Turning around, I was rewarded with a majestic view of the highest summits of Mt Asama, finally free of clouds. I then turned left onto a dirt path and up another hill through open countryside.

Mt Asama and Pond View

View of Mt Asama from the Panorama Trail

This was the best part of the hike so far, the entire range of the Asama volcano slowly coming into view. The entire plateau is dotted with small lakes, and I eventually arrived at one of the biggest ones, Himamu-ike Pond (干間無池), the dark blue summit of Mt Asama visible above the light blue lake. The trail continues down the cliffs and along the Chikuma River back to Komoro station, but here I headed back to an intersection near my lunch spot. From there, it was half an hour of slight up and down walking to Aguri no Yu Hot Spring, famed for the view of Mt Asama from its outdoor bath. After a refreshing soak, I was back at Komoro station at 5pm, and soon after, I was comfortably seated on the Shinkansen for the one hour trip back to Tokyo.

Mt Asama and Himamu Pond

Walking back from Himamu Pond

The Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail is actually a network of trails on the south bank of the Chikuma river. Today’s hike took about five hours and passed several of the area highlights, the excellent signposting and online information ensuring I could always find my way. I hope to return next year to complete the other sections and see the rest of the highlights. I’d also like to get an earlier start so that I can get clearer views of the Yatsugatake range on the south side, but I’d need to plan it for a cooler day as there is little shade along the way. In any case, I know I can finish my hike with a well-deserved hot spring bath.

Watch a Video of the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Takao (599m), Hachioji City, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, October 6, 2024 [Iroha & Katsura Forest Trails]

I wanted to do another afternoon hike on Mt Takao and explore more of its many trails. As the weather was supposed to be cloudy all day, it seemed like a good chance to do a hike close to home. The well-beaten tracks also meant that the path would be clear of spiders and spider webs. Finally, the cable car would be running past 6pm because of the summer beer garden, although I’d most likely be done before since it would be getting dark around 5pm.

Hiking in the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park

明治の森高尾国定公園

I’d take a local JR train from Shinjuku to Takao station; there, I’d board the bus for Kobotoke, at the back of the mountain, and then go up the Iroha Forest trail, leading all the way to the summit. I’d go down the Katsura Forest Trail, ending at the cable car top station. Before heading back, I could enjoy a hot spring bath at the Keio Takao-san Onsen, right next to the Takaosanguchi station. Although I knew I wouldn’t get any views, I hoped I could enjoy Tokyo’s most famous mountain minus the crowds.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Hikage Stream (left) Iroha Forest Trail (right)

Gaining Altitude (left) Reaching the Mist (right)

A few raindrops fell as I got off the train at Takao station just past 2pm, but fortunately nothing was falling as I got off at Hikage (日影), ten minutes away on a mostly empty bus. I continued up the main road for a few minutes before turning left and passing over a bridge; I then followed a narrow road alongside Hikage-sawa stream (日影沢). The pleasing rushing sound of the water made up for the gloomy skies overhead. At the Hikagezawa Camping Ground, I turned left onto the Iroha Forest Trail (いろはの森コース). Soon the path started to climb through thick forest, the sound of water slowly fading.

Halfway to the Top (left) Just before the Suspension Bridge Trail (right)

Walking up Wooden Steps (left) and Through the Mist (right)

I was surprised by how humid it still was, as I didn’t expect to break a sweat in such a short time. At 3pm, I reached a flatter section on a shoulder of the mountain, the surrounding forest shrouded in mist. Soon I was climbing again, the trail wet and slippery because of yesterday’s rain. I arrived at the intersection with the Suspension Bridge Trail (trail #4), explored four months ago. I continued along the Iroha Forest Trail, making my way up a series of wooden staircases, eventually merging with the Omotesando Trail (trail #1). I now had to share the path with dozens of other people, as well as huge Jorogumo spiders, hanging from immense webs on both sides of the trail. At 3h30, one hour after setting off, I reached the top of Mt Takao (高尾山たかおさん takao-san), the view consisting entirely of white space.

Exploring Ura-Takao (left) The Path for Momijidai (right)

The Summit Loop Trail (left) The Katsura Forest Trail (right)

I was surprised to see many people on the summit despite the poor weather. I found an empty spot at a bench for a late lunch. At 4pm, I decided to make a short roundtrip to Momijidai, on the backside of Mt Takao (裏高尾 ura-takao), as I was ahead of schedule. It took half an hour during which I only saw a small snake slither off the trail, and of course more spiders. It was starting to get gloomy so I upped the pace, following the Summit Trail (#5) back to the main side of the mountain, and quickly headed down the Katsura Forest Trail (#3, meaning Japanese Judas Tree). It was a solitary walk through the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park, the misty silence broken by the cries of birds.

Rest spot near the intersection of the Iroha Forest and Suspension Bridge Trails

Reaching the End of the Katsura Forest Trail

This part took longer than expected as it hugged the mountain side, winding in and out of tiny valleys. Luckily, it was mostly flat and easy to walk, although I had to be careful of the steep drop on the right side and the slippery surface of a couple of wooden bridges. Just as I thought I’d have to take out my headlight, I reached the Kasumidai Trail (#2) at 5pm, and a few minutes later, I emerged into an open space near the cable car, city lights barely visible though the mist. I was tempted to head down the Biwa waterfall trail to avoid the crowds but I knew it would be a tricky descent at this time of the day. Soon after, I was enjoying a nice hot soak at Takaosan Onsen, before hopping on the train for the one hour ride back to Tokyo.

Watch a Video of the Mt Takao Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Sengenrei (903m), Hinohara Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, September 30, 2024

I was looking for an easy hike close to Tokyo for a misty early autumn day. I had done this long ridgeline twice before, each time on sunny days in the late autumn, so I was familiar with this views; this time, it seemed I’d get to experience a different aspect of the mountain. To reach the start of the hike, I’d take JR local lines to Musashi-Itsukaichi station and from there catch the 9am Nishi-Tokyo bus, for the one-hour ride to the trail entrance.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

For the most part I’d follow a level trail along the Kanto Fureai no Michi, ending at Hossowa Falls, about a thirty minute bus ride back to the station. Some rain was supposed to fall throughout the day but I hoped it would just be light drizzle instead of a heavy downpour. On the bright side, this meant I could expect less people on this trail and so I was looking forward to a relaxing ramble through a familiar area.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Lots of clouds at the start of the hike

Same view but in good weather (2014 photo)

Light rain started to fall as soon as I got off the bus at the Sengen Ridge Trailhead (浅間尾根登山口); fortunately the bus shelter kept me dry while I got ready. At 10am, I started up a switchback trail leading to the top of the Sengen Ridge. Soon after setting off, the rain stopped, although I could still get wet from the tall grass lining the path. Darks clouds hang overhead but as expected I had the trail mostly to myself.

View South of the Mito-Jimba Ridgeline

Looking down at Hinohara Town

At 1130, I reached a viewpoint on top of an area cleared of trees; through the slowly lifting mist, I could see the ridgeline connecting Mt Mito and Mt Jinba. This deforestation was relatively new as I had no recollection of seeing it 4 years before; I passed several more such areas on the way. Soon after, I spotted the first mushrooms of the year, shaped as parasols; the ground was strewn with chestnut burrs (“igaguri“), both signs of the approaching autumn season.

View North of Mt Gozen

Misty Panorama from Sengenrei

At noon, light rain started to fall again, so I bypassed the true summit, taking a detour on the north side, soon arriving at the Sengen Ridge Rest Area, its most important feature being an open shelter. It was the perfect time to take a lunch break. After 30 minutes the rain stopped and I made my way to the observation deck on the lesser summit of Sengenrei (浅間嶺せんげんれい), a Kanto 100 famous mountain, where I enjoyed a misty panorama. At 1pm, I continued on my way, now on the Kanto Fureai no Michi. After a slippery descent, I turned right at a crossing, and followed a path hugging the north side of the ridge.

Sunny View from the top of Sengenrei (2014 photo)

View North of Mt Odake (2014 photo)

I had several wide views of the misty foothills on the other side of the valley from the top of some more clearings, although the highest points were hidden in the clouds. A little before 2pm, I headed down a rocky river valley, spotting a toad along the way, trying its best to blend in next to a mossy rock. It was only past Tokisaka pass (時坂峠), that I started seeing the first “Jorogumo” spiders of the day, forcing me to wave my stick in front of me to clear the way of hard to spot webs.

View North of Mt Gozen (2014 photo)

Hossowa Falls at the end of the hike

I had almost reached the end of the hike when it started to rain again, this time harder than before. I picked up the pace, arriving at the parking lot at 3pm. I sped up and down the well-maintained path for the falls, my 3rd visit overall, Hossowa waterfall (払沢の滝) looking quite impressive this time, thanks to the more than average rainfall this year. I made sure to buy a box of tofu donuts from nearby Chitoseya before heading to the shelter to wait for the bus back to Musashi-Itsukaichi station, which I reached at 5pm and from where it was a one hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Sengenrei Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a slideshow of more photos of the hike

Mt Mitsumochi (1248m), Yaita City, Tochigi Prefecture, Saturday, August 3, 2024

I wanted to do at least one summer hike this year, as it had been 5 years since my previous one. I decided to visit Mt Takahara, a 200-famous mountain climbed during Golden Week 2018. This time, I would not head to the highest point, but instead hike on the high plateau that likely inspired the name of this ancient stratovolcano. Looking through my newly purchased “150 Best Tochigi Mountains” guidebook, I found a short and easy loop hike passing by a minor summit at the edge of the plateau, ideal for a hot August day.

Hiking on Mt Takahara and in the Nikko National Park

高原山　・　日光国立公園

I would get to the trail entrance by car from Utsunomiya since no buses run all the way to the plateau. As the hike was relatively short, I could stop at a restaurant on the way for an early soba lunch. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny, and less hot and humid than the previous weeks, although thunderstorms still threatened. The path was through a beech and oak forest, with a view of the Kanto Plain at the halfway point; after a one month break, I was looking forward to a relaxing stroll in nature and getting a nice view .

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Steps at the Start of the Hike (left) Level Path for Most of the Way (right)

Looking Back at a Leaning Oak (left) Mistumochi Observation Tower (right)

At 10am, it already felt very hot under the sun as I walked through the streets of Utsunomiya towards my share car. After a one-hour drive, I arrived at Dattan Soba Juan (ダッタン蕎麦寿庵) as it opened at 1130, and was lucky to snag the very last table. After a delicious meal of handmade soba and the biggest kakiage ever, I set off again, driving up a winding road through thick forest, arriving at the Omamadai Parking (大間々台) on Happogahara (八方ヶ原) at 1h30. I was surprised to see few cars, probably because the mountain is more popular in the spring and autumn months.

View of Forest and Clouds from the Omamadai Observation Tower

Mostly Gentle Slopes on this Hike

I was amazed by all the dragon flies buzzing around, using my car antenna as a handy perch. At 1280m, it felt cooler than the low-lying plain, although at nearly 25°C it was still above my comfort zone for physical activity. I checked out the view from the parking Observation tower, but Mt Shaka, the highest point of Mt Takahara, was hidden by a thick layer of clouds. I located the start of the Yashio Route (やしおコース), branching left from the main trail up the mountain; for a short while it headed down before becoming level. It felt refreshing to be walking under the tree shade inside the Nikko National Park; I met few people although insects were out in great numbers.

View of the Kanto Plain from the Mt Mitsumochi Observation Deck

Cumulus Cloud Floating through the Summer Sky

I was interested in the many bilingual information boards along the trail, allowing me to learn more about the surrounding nature, although they didn’t prepare me for the discovery of a brown toad sitting in the bamboo grass (I spotted one more at the summit). After a short climb, I reached a new-looking wooden observation tower a little before 2pm, also the top of Mt Mitsumochi (ミツモチ山 mitsumochi-yama). From the top of the tower, I gazed upon the Kanto plain below, the view probably more impressive in the cooler days of Spring and Autumn. After a short break, I continued along the Aozora trail (青空コース meaning “blue skies”), a wider track circling clockwise back to my starting point.

Open section along the Aozora Route

Passing Between Three Beeches

I soon figured out that the trail name referred to the sky now visible through the trees overhead, rather than to any panoramic views. Fortunately, thick clouds had spread over the entire sky shielding me from the blazing sun; on the other hand I was now worried about thunderstorms. I picked up the pace, and after passing through an open grassy space, the trail climbed gently, merging with the main trail at 3pm, near an old wooden shinto gate. At one point, a startled deer jumped out of the trees, dashed across the trail and dived into the forest on the other side. Soon after, I was back at the parking lot, and after checking out the Yama-no-eki Takahara, drove back to Utsumomiya station where I boarded the shinkansen for the short ride back to Tokyo.

Mt Hinode (902m) & Mt Aso (794m), Tokyo Prefecture, Ome City & Hinode Town, Saturday, June 29, 2024

I was looking for another afternoon hike to make the most of the longer days of June. I also wanted to include a river section as it had rained a lot recently. I decided to head to Mt Mitake and follow the Kanto Fureai no Michi to Mt Hinode last visited ten years ago. From there I would follow a ridgeline to a minor peak I had to yet to climb; according to online reports, it had a wide view on the east side. I’d then follow the Shiraiwa-Taki hiking trail westwards to Shiraiwa waterfall, a short distance from the end of the trail. If time allowed, I could drop by nearby Tsuru Tsuru Onsen for a wash and a soak before heading back.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

To get to Mt Mitake, I’d ride the Chuo line from Shinjuku, change to the Ome lime in Tachikawa, change again to the Okutama line in Ome, and get off at Mitake station, a short bus ride from the Mitake cable car. For the return, I’d ride the bus from the hot spring to Musashi-Itsukaichi station, then take the Itsukaichi line to Tachikawa and finally transfer to the Chuo line for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be cloudy with temperatures in the mid-twenties. I hoped the higher humidity would still allow for comfortable hiking. I was looking forward to exploring new trails, getting some good views and seeing lots of rushing water.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Fureai no Michi past Mitake Village (left) on the way to Mt Hinode (right)

Mt Hinode Trail Before the Summit (left) and Past the Summit (right)

It was a cloudy day as I rode the train from the tall, shiny skyscrapers of Shinjuku to the low, green hills of Ome. As I had left around noon, I was rewarded with sitting space on the trains, as well as on the cable car shuttle bus and the cable car itself, my first time to be comfortably seated after half a dozen trips to the area. It was also my first time to visit in June, the green of spring in full swing, white and purple Hydrangea (ajisai) lining the road.

Trail between Mt Hinode and Mt Aso (left) Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail (right)

Falls (left) and Wooden Walkway (right) along the Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail

It felt pleasantly cool felt as I exited the cable car top station just before 2pm. I was relieved that few people had chosen to visit in the rainy season. After getting ready and checking the view of today’s two peaks from Mitakedaira, I made my way up some steps to an observation deck from where I had a slightly better view of the area. I decided to make a quick detour via Ubuyasu Shrine (産安社), a peaceful spot with some impressive cedars, reminding me that I was inside the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. I then headed down a different path taking care not to slip, the ground still wet from yesterday’s rain, arriving at the Mitake Visitor Center at 2h30, also the junction with the Kanto Fureai no Michi.

View of Mt Aso (left) and Mt Hinode (right) from Mitakedaira

View of Mt Aso (left) and Mt Hinode (right) from the Observation Deck

I suddenly felt quite warm as the sun had came out from behind the clouds. After crossing Mitake Village, I found myself on a level path through cedars, arriving at a junction past a Shinto gate at 3pm. I took the left path heading up the mountain side, and less than half an hour later, arrived at the top of Mt Hinode (日の出山ひのでやま hinodeyama), a Tokyo 100 famous mountain, the name translating as “sunrise mountain”. Looking north, I could see the Okutama Mountains, and to the south, the Tanzawa mountains; straight ahead was the Kanto Plain and Tokyo.

Steps leading to the Observation Deck and Ubuyasu Shrine

View of Tokyo and Kanto Plain from the top of Mt Hinode

I was slightly worried about rain as thick clouds had appeared on the west side, hiding the summit of Mt Mitake. After a break, I set off down a steep trail on the south side, the descent made easier by log steps. Just before 4pm, I reached a T-junction: to the left was the shortest path for Tsurutsuru onsen, favoured by the few remaining hikers; however, I turned right, now following a narrow path, with views of the triangular summit of today’s next mountain on the left side through gaps in the vegetation; I soon left the Fureai no Michi as it descended into the valley on the right. At 4h30 I was standing on the top of Mt Aso (麻生山あそうさん aso-san), feeling quite sweaty despite the short climb.

View of the Triangular Summit of Mt Aso

Second Viewpoint of Mt Aso

I was stunned by breathtaking view of the Kanto plain, the east side completely free of trees and mountains. I was a little behind schedule so instead of taking a breather on one of the several benches, I headed west, now following the Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail (白岩滝ハイキングコース). As I walked down a dark valley, I could hear the bark of deer but never saw any. Very soon, I was walking beside a small charming stream, my hopes for the day fulfilled. A little after 5pm, I arrived at a trail junction, where I went right, sticking close to the rushing water. I passed several small falls before arriving at a point where the trail had collapsed.

View of Mt Mimuro from Asodaira

Trail leading to Shiraiwa-no-Taki Waterfall

I thought I’d have to turn back but then noticed some rope leading down into and then up and out of the jumble of rocks and sand. Proceeding carefully and using the rope, I safely crossed to the other side and was soon walking again on a normal, but slippery trail. Shortly after, I arrived at the highlight of the hike, Shiraiwa waterfall (白岩ノ滝 shiraiwa-no-taki). The path took me right next to the falls, the sound water roaring in my ears; at the base, I crossed a bridge and made my way to a an observation platform on the opposite side.

Preliminary Waterfall near the Collapsed Part of the Trail

View of Shiraiwa Waterfall from the Observation Platform

I gazed in wonder at the thundering falls, wondering how much of the water was due to the recent rainfall. I was also amazed I had the place entirely to myself, although this may have been due to the late hour. I eventually pulled myself away from the view, and at 6pm, arrived at a bus stop at the end of the trail. After a short wait I boarded a bus for the short ride to Tsurutsuru Onsen, at the end of the line. After a refreshing bath, I boarded the bus again for the 30 minute ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station where I boarded the 8pm train, finally arriving back in Shinjuku about an hour later.

See a video of the Mt Hinode Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Morito River Valley, Hayama Town & Zushi City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, June 22, 2024

I wanted to do a river walk to take advantage of the increased water flow during the rainy season, as experienced on my last outing. I found a suitable river valley cutting the Miura Alps in half. Looking online, I saw that the riverside path, also a popular birdwatching spot, was easy to navigate but the trails leading out of the valley were steep and rough, especially tricky after rain. As it had rained heavily the previous day, I decided to forego a loop hike over the top of Mt Futago (also spelled Mt Futako) on the south side and settle for the less adventurous roundtrip up and down the river valley.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to the trail entrance, I’d drive a rental car from Yokosuka-Chuo Station, 30 minutes from Yokohama station on the Keiyu line so I could skip walking under the midday sun from the nearest bus stop; I’d also be able to have lunch at a soba restaurant on the way. After returning the car, I could ride the train two stops to Hemi station and check out the fireflies at Hotaru no Sato. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon, with temperatures around 27°C; rain was forecast later in the evening. I hoped the cooler climate of the river valley would make for bearable hiking conditions and that the rain would hold off till after my firefly spotting session.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Start of the Morito River Path (left) Flat and Easy to Walk (right)

Cedars Past the Halfway Point (left) View down the Morito River (right)

The sun was already quite warm at 11am as I exited Yokosuka-Chuo station. I found my rental car on other side of Mikasa shopping arcade, and after a short drive, arrived at Wakana at 1230, the parking already nearly full. After a delicious lunch of fresh handmade soba and crispy tempura, I drove a short distance to Hayama station, a roadside station selling local food products, a handy place to park my car. After getting ready, I set off at 2h30 as thin clouds raced across the sky, and reached a gate marking the entrance of the Morito river forest path (森戸川林道 moritogawa-rindo) shortly after.

Walking Under Sun Rays (left) and Next to Running Water (right)

River Crossing (left) and River Walking (right) Past the End of the Forest Path

I was stunned by the rapid transition from the countryside to a scenery reminding me of the rainforest. The abundant vegetation pushed in on both sides, creating walls of green, and even organic tunnels. At first, I could also deduce the existence of the river from the noise trickling through the thick foliage. At one point I overtook a group of birdwatchers excitedly whispering and pointing out something invisible on some branch; I dared not ask what they were looking at and quickly moved on. A short distance away, it was my turn to spot something exciting: a snake tentatively making its way down a vertical tree trunk (see video below).

Thick Vegetation at the Start of the Morito River Forest Path

Getting a Closer Look at the Morito River

I was mesmerised, almost charmed, by this unexpected sight. The group of birdwatchers caught up but couldn’t say what the snake was called, claiming it was outside their area of expertise. A little further on, I dived down a side path leading to a rocky beach, giving me my first good look at Morito River. It seemed remarkably wide, originating from such a low-altitude range of hills, although I surmised it was temporary and caused by the recent start of the rainy season. I returned to the main trail, and after overtaking smaller and smaller groups of birdwatchers, spotted an overhead bridge through the tree branches, marking the halfway point of the Moritogawa Rindo.

Fallen Tree Spanning the Morito River and Forest Path

Overhead Road Spanning the Morito River Valley

I was impressed by this striking structure, more reminiscent of ancient jungle ruins than modern infrastructure; in fact I had driven over this very bridge on my way to the hike. After passing under it, I entered a more open forest of cedars and ferns, giving me an uninterrupted view down a straight section of the river. I could also see blue sky above the treetops; fortunately, the valley remained cool in the shade and next to running water. After walking down an avenue of towering cedars, I reentered lower and denser forest. For a brief while, the path became one with a brooklet before going their own way. At 4pm, I arrived at a clearing at the end of the Moritogawa Rindo and continued straight, following the signs for the Futagoyama Hiking Trail (二子山ハイキングコース), one of the three rugged trails leading out of the valley.

Viewpoint of Morito River

Ducking under a Tilting Tree

The path disappeared into the river almost at once, although it seemed possible to walk along the rocky banks in the drier months. The water wasn’t even ankle deep but I decided this was the right moment to head back. I picked up the pace but still took time to stop and admire some fantastically shaped tree trunks and a couple of ephemeral waterfalls. The snake had completed its descent meaning it was now slithering out of sight through the undergrowth. At 5pm I passed through the gate and a little later was back at my car. I rewarded myself with a soft ice from Hayama Station before driving back.

Still lots of Water on the Upper Section of Morito River

A Tame Path through Wild Vegetation

Night had already fallen as I got off the train at Hemi station a little after 7pm. After a 15 minute walk, I reached Firefly Village (Hotaru no Sato ホタルの里), the many signposts along the way making it easy to find even in the dark. A small crowd of people had already gathered along the riverside, mostly shadows in the darkest spots under the trees. At 7h30, the first pinpoint of light magically appeared above our heads. Gradually more and more bright spots appeared, flying in zigzag, finding and missing each other. As I ventured further up the river, away from the town lights, I was able to spot more and more fireflies. At the same time the grassy path became treacherous in the pitch-black darkness and I eventually retreated to safer grounds. At 8pm, I headed back to the station satisfied to have seen one of nature’s wonders.

Watch a Video of the Morito River Valley Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Takao (599m), Hachioji City, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, June 9, 2024

I wanted to do a late afternoon hike to take advantage of the longer days of June. I decided to head to Mt Takao in the hope that most people would be on the way home by then. It would be my first visit in a while since lately I’ve preferred the less popular peaks. Although I’d been to the top about a dozen times it would be my first time in June. Looking at the English map on the Mt Takao official site, I chose to go up Trail 6 and down Trails 4, 2 & 1. If I finished early enough, I could enjoy a hot spring bath before heading back.

Hiking in the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park

明治の森高尾国定公園

I would ride the Keio line limited express from Shinjuku to Takaosan-guchi, and use the same train for the return. The weather was supposed to be overcast and dry with temperatures cool for the season but comfortable for hiking. I was looking forward to my first late afternoon hike in 2 years and revisiting a familiar place. The cloudy weather meant views would be scarce but I hoped the new green of spring would make the trip worthwhile.

As of july 2025, the Inariyama trail is closed for repair. Consequently, trail #6 (described in this post) has been changed to a one-way ascending-only trail to prevent accidents and traffic jams due to overcrowding. This restriction in in place all day; trail running (in either direction) is also prohibited. In other words, it’s not possible to hike down this trail for the time being (no end date to the restriction has been given). Multiple signs in Japanese and English have been placed at the bottom and top of the trail, as well as long other trails. Please take this into account when planning your hike.

Start of Trail #6 (left) Before the Inariyama Trail Connecting Path (right)

Walking on Water past the Inariyama Trail Connection Path (left & right)

It was a grey day as I rode the mostly empty limited express from Shinjuku, arriving at Takoasan-guchi station a little after 4pm. I passed countless people heading home as I made my way from the train station to the cable car station, the starting point for most of the hiking paths. As I started up trail #6 on a paved road alongside a river, the cable car thundered by overhead; I would not be riding it today as the last one was scheduled for 6pm, well before the end of today’s hike.

River Section of Trail #6 (left) Steps at the Top of Trail #6 (right)

Looking Back at the Steps of Trail #6 (left) Heading Down Trail #4 (right)

I was surprised by the volume of water in the river, considerably more than during my previous visit in the winter months. The number of descending hikers became less and less, and past Oyama Bridge, I had the trail mostly to myself. I was impressed by the height of the cedar trees along the river valley, a reminder that I was inside the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park. Shortly after 5pm, I reached a connecting path with the Inariyama Trail (#1) but continued straight along trail #6.

Walking Down Trail #4 (left) Steps Down Trail #4 (right)

Crossing the Suspension Bridge (left) Near the End of Trail #4 (right)

The trail turned into a stream without warning, the overflow probably due to the heavy rain from the previous days. I hadn’t expected to be walking in water and it was hard to believe I was right at the edge of Tokyo. Eventually, the trail left the river valley, heading straight up the mountain side. The steep ascent was aided by wooden steps, a fairly recent addition. Soon I reached a flat area just before trail #5, a short path encircling the summit. At 5h30, I was standing on the top of Mt Takao, eerily quiet in the early evening.

Wooden Steps on the Higher Sections of Mt Takao

Mt Fuji hidden in the Clouds

It was a rare sight to see the top of Mt Takao empty of people. I made my way to the viewpoint on the south side but today Mt Fuji was mostly hidden in the clouds. After a short break, I made my way down Trail #4 on the other side of the mountain. Many sections were fitted with steps making it easy to walk even as the daylight was swiftly fading. At 6pm, I arrived at a suspension bridge, partially hidden by green tree branches. Before the junction of Trail #4 with the road leading down from the summit, I ducked down Trail #2 for some more forest walking. At 6h30, I reached the now deserted top station of the Takao cable car.

Suspension Bridge Hidden by Tree Branches

Walking a Level Section of Trail #4

I spent a few moments enjoying the quiet atmosphere of what is usually a very busy place, before heading down trail #1, a steep road shared with authorized cars. I walked at a fast pace, overtaking the few people still left, and less than half an hour later, was back at my starting point. At 7pm, I entered the Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu (京王高尾山温泉極楽湯), right next to train station and last visited in December 2023. After a refreshing hot spring bath, I hopped onto the Keio limited express train for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Mt Takao Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Ogusu (241m), Yokotsuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, June 1, 2024 [Shonan International Village Route]

I wanted to do some more nearby, low-altitude hiking before the hot and humid weather forced me to travel far and high. Looking at my new Miura Peninsula hiking map, I decided to revisit Mt Ogusu: this time I’d start from Hemi station on the northeast side, and finish at Shonan Kokusai Village on the northwest side; on the way, I could pass by Anjin-Miura’s grave in Tsukayama Park, first visited in February 2019. I could also see the view from the Mt Ogusu observation tower, hopefully open this time.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to my starting point, I would ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama, and there change to the local Keiyu line. For the return, I could ride a bus to Shiori station, the next stop from Hemi station. Although, the year’s first typhoon had hit the area the previous day, Saturday’s weather was supposed to be mostly sunny with temperatures in the mid-twenties. I wondered how comfortable hiking in this season would be, but was looking forward to getting some more views of the Miura Peninsula.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Start of the Hike (left) Lots of Water after the Typhoon (right)

Path near the top (left) and base (right) of Tsukayama Park

It was a beautiful spring day as I got off the train at Hemi station at 10am. As I made my way through the town, I noticed food stalls lining the main street, a sure sign a festival was taking place this weekend. I stopped by Jodoji Temple, a peaceful place with a bench; apparently a small Buddha statue belonging to Anjin-Miura is kept there but sadly not on display.

Walking next to the Bamboo (left) Path up Mt Ogusu (right)

Walking down the steps (left) Near the Base of Mt Ogusu (right)

I could hear festival music playing in the background as I prepared for my hike. I set off at 11am and first made a small detour by “Hotaru no Sato” (Firefly village). It was too early in the day to see any fireflies but I discovered a charming little river valley filled with birdsong; although a path led directly to Tsukayama Park (塚山公園), I decided to head back and follow the official route, and at noon, arrived at the observation deck (見晴台) at the top of the park.

Jodoji Temple near Hemi Station

View towards “Firefly Village” on the way to Tsukayama Park

I could see the buildings of Yokotsuka City on the west side, and beyond, Tokyo Bay and the Boso peninsula; to the north, I could see the Kamakura Alps. From the nearby Fujimidai observation deck (富士見台) I could see the Miura Alps, although Mt Fuji was hiding today; overhead, cirrus clouds spread across the sky. I took a short break on a bench at Kashimadai (鹿島台), the third and last view point before heading down “Ishidatami” or Flagstone path (石畳道) on the other side. True to its name, I had to be careful not to slip on the smooth stones underfoot, still wet from yesterday’s rain.

View of Yokotsuka City with Hydrangeas in the foreground

The Miura Alps from Fujimidai in Tsukayama Park

I was surprised to see a small stream running alongside the path, its temporary existence due to the previous night’s heavy rains. I left the park behind and followed a busy road southwards, soon reaching the entrance of another trail. After a short, steep climb, I reached the top of a narrow, up and down ridge. Although there were few views, I was glad to be in the shade during the hottest time of day. I soon passed the minor summit of Mt Gongen (権現山 138m), devoid of a summit marker and a view, so I continued without a break, now heading down.

View towards Yokohama from Tsukayama Park

View of Tokyo Bay from Kashimadai in Tsukayama Park

I had to fray myself a passage through the vegetation and was relieved upon reaching more open forest at the base of the hill. Suddenly, the path turned into a small stream and the sound of croaking could be heard under the tall cedars. I followed the water as it left the trail and ended in a large pond. The frogs lost their voice upon my arrival and stayed quiet even after I left. A few minutes later, I popped onto a road; turning around, I could hardly see the trail entrance. I crossed a busy road and at the top of a slope, reached another trail entrance, equally hard to find. The path hugged the forest on the left side, with fields on the right side.

A Hidden Pond at the base of Mt Gongen

Gazing at the Miura Alps from the top of Mt Ogusu

I was excited to suddenly spot a Japanese Pheasant at a bend in the path. I followed it for a while as it calmly lured me away from its chick. After a short climb, I reached a bridge over the Yokotsuka toll road, the trail continuing on the other side, recrossing the road via a graffiti-covered underground passage. I reached another section of near unpassable overgrown trail before arriving at a paved road at the base of Mt Ogusu. There, I turned left, and then right onto a lovely path along a bamboo grove. I soon reached another road, where I turned left. I was now walking next to a golf course, my path eventually merging with the one from my previous hike. At 4pm I reached the summit of Mt Ogusu.

Second Observation Tower on Mt Ogusu

Mt Ogusu from the Shonan Kokusai Village

I was slightly disappointed to that the observation tower was still closed, and after a short break, headed to the second and lower observation tower for the make-up view. I had to backtrack a little to reach the entrance of the Shonan Kokusai Village Trail (湘南国際村コース), with steps to help with the steeper parts. At 4h30, I reached a paved road at the edge of the forest, once again bordering the golf course. As I followed it up and down a pass, I had good views of today’s mountain, the second observation tower shining in the late afternoon sun. I arrived at Shonan Kokusai Village a little before 5pm, where I caught a bus for the short ride back to Shiori station.