So 2018 has ended and I thought I would share all the day hikes I did from Tokyo over the past year, excluding those done using the shinkansen, since they are covered in the Tokyo Wide Pass updates. There were some additional hikes that required overnight stays that I hope to share eventually. I only managed about 30 hikes, about 10 less than year. Hopefully, I can make up for this in 2019 (already 5 in January so off to a good start!).

Soga Hills (highest point 328m), Odawara city, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday January 13

The rounded peak to the left of Mt Fuji is Mt Kintoki

I chose the Soga Hills 曽我丘陵, a hilly forested area in Western Kanagawa, stretching from the foothills of the Tanzawa mountains all the way to Sagami bay, for my first hike of the year. In theory you can hike from Shin-Matsuda all the way to Kozu. However my guidebook didn’t have any information about the first part, so I played it safe and started the hike a little further south, from Kamioi station instead. At first I had to walk along roads, then through fields with nice views of snow-capped Fuji. I saw some interesting wood piles destined for the bonfires of dondonyaki (celebrated on the 15th).

New year decorations and old charms such as Daruma heads are burned

A steep path finally brought me to “Yume no Sato” at the top of the ridge with great views of Mt Fuji and the Hakone mountains. From there it was easy walk with some slight ups and downs along countryside lanes and through lovely forest, with occasional glimpses of Mt Fuji to the West and the Tanzawa mountains to my back, in the North.

The Tanzawa mountains – the pyramid one on the very left is Mt Oyama

Finally Sagami bay came in view – I could spot the faint outline of Oshima island to the South and the hills of the Boso peninsula to the East. After reaching an area full of plum tree orchards, I started to descend along a road with good views of Odawara town, the Izu peninsula and the ocean. The path is well-sign posted with several detailed information boards, and I was lucky to find a good onsen about 1.5km West of Kozu station.

The sea and, in the far distance, the Chiba coastline

Mt Karasawa (249m), Mt Suwa (324m) and Mt Mikamo (229m), Sano City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday January 21

The final stretch before Karasawa shrine lined with banners

One area I discovered in 2017, and continued to explore in 2018, is the mountainous Southern part of Gunma and Tochigi prefectures, jutting into the Kanto plain from the North, and consisting of Kiryu, Ashikaga, Sano and Tochigi cities. It combines countless low hills with fairly good access from train stations.

Getting to the start of the hike required a little bit of road walking (I saw a couple of emus inside an enclosure on the way!) Once you start up the mountain, the scenery was surprisingly beautiful and wild. Near the top of Mt Karasawa 唐沢山 there is the Karasawa Shrine with its many (real) cats. The hike over to Mt Suwa 諏訪山 is also very pleasant – nice surrounding forest with lots of pine trees and good views of the valley.

Views of Southern Tochigi

Since it’s really quite a short hike, I decided to do one more mountain – Mt Mikamo 三毳山 just south of the Ryomo train line and a Kanto 100 famous mountain. I got the bus driver to drop me off at the nearest point and I quickly went up and down this relatively low mountain inside Mikamoyama park, making it down just after sunset.

Boshu Alps (highest point 268m), Boso Peninsula, Chiba Prefecture, Sunday February 4

Kagutsuchi Shrine, a mysterious place a little off the main trail

I had been wanting to hike the the Boshu Alps 房州アルプス , the hilly area East of Mt Nokogiri, for a while, but unfortunately, there is no public transport to the start, and a round trip wasn’t feasible because the last bus at the end was too early. After I had hurt my knee in 2017 (not while hiking), I had decided that I should do all the hikes I really wanted to do regardless of cost (within reason), so I coughed up the money for a taxi from Kazusa Minato station.

Since it’s a fairly short hike, and to save money, I asked to be dropped off at the base of the hills. However, the taxi driver took me all the way up to where the trail actually starts. Lesson learned – on subsequent taxi rides I always made sure to check our position using the GPS on my phone so I could tell the driver where to stop exactly.

My taxi drop-off point and official start of the Boshu Alps hiking trail

This was my only hike of the year in Chiba – a shame since the area is very pittoresque with its rolling green hills. The end, however, was a bit of a disaster – I couldn’t find the last part of the trail going down and, after some lost time, ended up descending via the same route as when I did my last hike in the area in 2017. In fact, I also got somewhat lost on that hike as well – the area could use some better signposting because apart from those confusing bits, it’s a wonderful and easy place to hike in the winter.

Mt Gyodo 442m, Mt Ryogai 248m, Mt Oiwa, 417m Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sat February 24

The urban sprawl of Ashikaga city

February 2021 – due to a forest fire, access to the hiking trail to Mt Gyodo is forbidden. Please check the Ashikaga City website for updates.

The best thing about hiking Mt Gyodou 行道山, apart from the views of the hills of Southern Tochigi, is that it starts at Ashikaga Orihime Shrine, passes through the ruins of Ashikaga Mountain castle, and finishes at Gyodosan-join temple, so I was able to include some cultural sightseeing with my hiking (there are signs with English explanations). I choose to walk to the start of the trail, instead of taking a taxi, and saw several interesting sights inside Ashikaga city, and some plum blossoms as well.

As you go further in, the city gives way to countryside

All the spots are very photogenic, and the trail in between, is rocky and alpine-like despite the low altitude. It’s a popular hiking area so I saw (and chatted) with lots of people, especially in the first section. The last part I was all by myself. I can’t think of a better hike to do in the middle of winter.

Steps leading up to Orihime shrine

Mt Amamaki (533m), Mt Takamine (520m) & Mt Bucho (431m), Kasama city, Ibaraki prefecture, Saturday March 3

The hills of Ibaraki prefecture to the South

This one required yet another taxi ride to the start of the trail. As I was starting to discover, Japanese taxi drivers can be very chatty, so I was getting some Japanese practice for the same price. I had originally spotted these 3 mountains when I had hiked from Mt Atago to Mt Wagakuni, South of the Mito line, in 2017. This was my first hike of the year to Ibaraki prefecture, another area I am slowly discovering, although all 3 mountains are on the border with Tochigi prefecture.

I enjoyed the start of the trail very much. It went through some nice forest and it was already quite warm in the beginning of the March. After reaching the top ridge I went left to the top of Mt Amamaki 雨巻山 with views of Tochigi prefecture to the East. I passed an observation tower on the way with good views to the South with Mt Tsukuba in the distance. There are other hiking trails up and down this mountain and it would make a good day hike by itself.

The hills of Tochigi prefecture to the North

I then retraced my steps and headed down the mountain and followed a road for a bit, still icy in some parts. I finally found the small path that led to the top of Mt Takamine, where there was a launching spot for paragliders and a fantastic panorama. I think this is about the 7th such spot that I’ve come upon while hiking – I hadn’t realised that it was such a popular spot in Japan! I continued through forest with good views of Tochigi to the North, to the last of the 3 summits, Mt Buccho 仏頂山, surrounded by trees. After descending, I walked through fields and villages all the way back to the train station.

Mt Kurakake (492m), Kanuma city, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday April 8

The ragged ridgeline of Mt Kogashi

Mt Kurakake 鞍掛山 is situated in a small hilly area located between Utsunomiya and Nikko cities. I used a taxi for the approach but asked to be dropped off at Akagawa lake, the starting point of neighbouring Mt Kogashi (climbed in 2017), so that I could walk the last part along small roads to the trailhead. I kind of regretted that decision because no sooner had I set out that in started snowing – yes, snowing in April! It didn’t last but I had to take refuge under some trees at one point. The area is not particularly high but it seems that the cold front had just moved in – it was quite cold for a while after that.

View of Mt Takahara to the North (Mt Tsukuba can be see to the West)

The hike starts past a “torii” or a Shinto gate, then separates into two routes which form a loop. I took the “iwa kosu” or rock route up – it ascends quite steeply at one point – there is a rope to prevent a nasty fall. The top is rather unremarkable, but I noticed that there is a connecting path to Mt Kogashi, something to try in the future. There is a good view further along at “oiwa” (big rock). I returned via the “one kosu” or ridge route, and made my way down back to the “torii”. I finished the hike along small roads all the way to a small town where there was an interesting hot spring – not a resort or a hotel, just a small building inside a park, where one can pay a small fee to use the hot spring bath.

Mt Mitsumine (605m), Tochigi City, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday April 22

Ryuo Gorge & Mt Nandaira (1016m), Kawaji Onsen, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday May 20

The Kinu river at the Ryuo gorge

Here is one more hike that was on my to-do list – ever since I first stayed overnight at Kinugawa onsen in 2010. At the time, I made it to Ryuo gorge, only 2 train stops away from the hot spring resort, but too late in the day to do any hiking. This time, not only was I early enough, I was also surprised how few people there were on this gorgeous May day. I saw only a handful of people while walking along the river gorge, and no one during my ascent and descent of Mt Nandaira 南平山.

Another river view along the hike

The gorge part is fantastic – mostly flat and with lots of scenic views up and down the valley. Although the top of Mt Nandaira doesn’t have a view, the path – up and down the same way – is well-maintained and very pleasant to walk on. Some people may turn their noses up at such a hike but I found it oddly satisfying. The hike ended at Kawaji Onsen, where there was a nice little hot spring near the river.

Kawaji Onsen, a hot spring resort next to the river

Mt Kanomata (1637m) & Tanbara marshland, Numata city, Gunma prefecture, Saturday May 26

Tanbara from Mt Kanomata through the late May haze

I was lucky enough to get a lift to the trailhead from occasional hiking partner Isobel who has a second house in nearby Minakami. Otherwise it’s possible to get there by bus from Numata station but you will need to leave Tokyo with the first trains. Tanbara marshland 玉原湿原 was a real discovery for me: I hadn’t imagined that a place with such beautiful nature existed within the confines of the Kanto plain, literally at the feet of Mt Hotaka.

Most of the hike is through beautiful forest on an elevated plateau through the center of which runs a bubbling brook. The area is home to a ski resort in the winter so at one point we walked under a stopped chairlift. The skies were hazy so unfortunately the views of Gunma prefecture to the West were somewhat muted. The hike to the top of Mt Kanomata 鹿俣山 is relatively short and easy with little altitude gain. On the return we extended the hike to the West towards Mt Amagahage 尼ヶ禿 (1466m).

Forest walking around Tanbara marshland

Mt Wanakura (2036m), Koshu & Chichibu cities, Yamanashi & Saitama prefectures Saturday June 2

Soaring above Chichibu – the summit of Mt Wanakura

This mountain – a two-hundred famous mountain called Mt Wanakura 和名山 on the Saitama side and Mt Shiroishi 白石山 on the Yamanashi side – was on my bucket list for a long time, and it felt good to check it off. The reason I kept putting it off, is that it seemed impossible to do without an overnight stay on the mountain. In the end I forked out some money for the taxi ride from Enzan station to the trailhead on the Yamanashi side, which enabled to do the traverse over to the Saitama side in one long day.

Looking back towards Yamanashi and Mt Kobushi and Mt Kentoku

The climb up was nice (lots of larch trees) but the ridge section from the Saitama border to the summit was definitely worth it – stunning scenery, sweeping views and relatively easy hiking at around 2000m high. The views were easily some of the best I had ever seen of the central part of the Chichibu mountains. The summit completely surrounded by trees was a slight disappointment and the steep and rocky descent down into Chichibu was pretty tough – no wonder most people stay in a hut on the Yamanashi side and do it as a roundtrip only.

The vastness of the Okuchichibu mountains

There is a great suspension bridge at the very end, that enables one to cross Chichibu lake. I was waiting for the bus at the other end but it was very late so I was picked up by a couple of guys who had also climbed the same mountain but up and down the path I had found so terrible – quite a punishing climb and descent with no view at the end! They kindly me dropped me off at an onsen where I take a bath and catch a bus back.

On the long suspension bridge spanning Chichibu lake

Mt Nijurokuya (971m) & Mt Takahata (982m), Uenohara, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday June 17

A misty climb can also be beautiful

The rainy season was in full swing but I decided to try my luck, and although it didn’t rain, I was nearly always in the mist – apparently it was sunny just 500m higher up! However I didn’t mind since with little wind, the conditions were quite pleasant and the surroundings atmospheric. I got to see some interesting spiderwebs and beetles, some beautiful alpine-like forest, and only encountered one other small group during the entire hike. I look forward to redoing this hike in clear weather so that I can enjoy the views.

The top of Mt Nijurokuya 二十六夜山 was quite unremarkable, a short there and back from the main trail. Supposedly you can see Mt Fuji from the top of Mt Takahata 高畑山 but the weather hadn’t improved enough by the time I got there. While hiking between the two peaks, you can catch a glimpse of the JR maglev station in the valley on the left. The final descent follows a pretty river valley which I had already walked up when climbing Mt Kuratake a few years ago. A bus ride from Uenohara is needed to get to the start of the hike. However it finishes on the Chuo line which you can ride direct back. It is by far one of the easiest Yamanashi hikes you can do from Tokyo.

A misty ridge

Mt Kesamaru (1908m), Watarase Valley, Gunma prefecture, Sunday June 24

Glimpses of the other Kesamaru ridge

Mt Kesamaru 袈裟丸山 was another headache in terms of logistics. In the end I opted for a taxi ride for from Akagi station which in hindsight was a mistake. The ride was more expensive that I had estimated, and the road, which had been redone recently, was in far better state that I had imagined – renting a car from Takasaki would have been better overall.

From the taxi drop-off point, it was another couple of hours of road hiking to reach the trail entrance. From there, the hike was fairly amazing – beautiful forest and breathtaking views of the Watarase valley. Mt Kesamaru has actually two peaks “front” and “back”. I climbed the back one, hoping to be able to cross to the front one, and make a loop back down. Unfortunately the connection between the two was closed due to trail degradation and I didn’t dare venture onto to the crumbly ridge by myself – it will have to tackle the front part separately another time. So after gazing at the view Eastwards towards Tochigi prefecture, Westwards towards Mt Akagi, I headed down the same way.

Five months later I would be hiking the mountains directly opposite

During the descent, I realised that I had miscalculated the timing of this hike and that due to the low frequency of trains on the Watarase line, there was a chance that I wouldn’t make it back to Tokyo Sunday night. So I hitchhiked, and was picked up by a kind couple who dropped me off at my request, not at the closest station, but two stations further down at Mizunuma 水沼, because it has an onsen inside the station.

Mt Hangetsu (1753m), Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture, Monday September 17

The classic view of lake Chuzenji and Mt Nantai

Mt Hangetsu 半月, meaning half moon in Japanese, is located on the Southern shore of Chuzenji lake in upper Nikko. Although I had observed the mountain ridge there multiples times and from different angles, I had so far never ventured to the area. I cheated a little and took the very short ropeway from the top of the iroha slope. I was mostly alone on my hike till I reached the car park a little below the summit with spectacular views of the lake and Mt Nantai – apparently there is a bus that runs all the way there too.

After reaching the summit, that I shared with several people, I made my way back to the bus stop at Chuzenji lake along the lakeshore – a nice and easy stroll. Unfortunately the Prince Hotel was closed for renovation so I had to scramble to find another hot spring for day trippers, before catching a bus back. September is actually a great time to visit the area since most hikers flock to the Alps and don’t flood the area till the autumn leaves start appearing in October.

The Kegon falls as viewed from the top of the ropeway

Mt Senjin (663m) & Mt Akayuki (621m), Ashikaga city, Tochigi prefecture, Sunday November 18

View of Matsuda lake

Another Ashikaga hike – the station is starting to feel familiar. Due to poor bus connections, a taxi ride was required to the start of the trail – I used my phone’s GPS to pinpoint the exact drop off point. The start of the hike was unexpectedly beautiful – up a steep river valley. The lovely path suddenly became a steep switchback bringing me to the top of the ridge. I did a quick round trip to the right in order to get to a nice viewpoint of a lake and surrounding mountains. The surrounding vegetation was quite alpine-like which was surprising considering the relatively low altitude. I then made my way up to the top of Mt Senjin 山人ヶ岳 (no view).

My plan was to circle Matsuda lake till Mt Mt Akayui 赤雪山 and then descend towards Matsudagawa dam. The path was slightly longer than I had anticipated with a certain amount of ups and downs – a good workout! I met no other hikers. It was getting “girigiri” to catch my bus back so after reaching the “azumaya” at the top of Mt Akayuki (I left a message in the notebook in the “azumaya”) I took the shortest route down down and sorely regretted it.

My guidetalk had mentioned some fallen trees due to a past typhoon but nothing could prepare me for the mess I encountered. I was forced to leave the main path and find my own way through the forest. Just when I thought it couldn’t get any worse, I encountered a real barrage of fallen trees – I had never seen anything like it. They should seriously close off the path. After finding my way round and getting tangled in brambles, I finally emerged at the dam way behind schedule. Luckily, the first car that came by stopped to pick me up, and kindly dropped me off at the nearest train station.

Route barred on the descent!

Mt Nyukasa (1955m), South Alps, Nagano prefecture, Friday November 23

I froze my fingers to take this picture of Yatsugatake!

When I am not busy climbing 100 famous mountains, I like to climb Kanto hundred famous mountains and 200 / 300 famous mountains in the Tokyo area. Mt Nyukasa 入笠 is a 200 famous mountain in Nagano prefecture, located at the northern tip of the South Alps. It’s a little far from Tokyo – I had to go all the way to Fujimi station on the Chuo line, and then take a taxi to the trailhead.

The climb to the top is relatively short and easy, but the views of Mt Yatsugatake opposite were breathtaking. There were also good view of Mt Fuji, Lake Suwa and the South Alps. It was definitely freezing there so I quickly made my way down the other side, and continued towards the Oahara marshland 大阿原湿原. Quite a nice place, it strongly reminded me of my native Belgium. I had originally planned to do a simple loop but halfway I found a path following a small stream.

A view that could easily be easily be the “haute fagnes”

The signboard nearby indicated – without any times – that it was possible to loop back to my starting point, so I decided to take a chance and follow this new route. I was rewarded by a very pretty river valley. It was mostly in the shade in winter, but I could imagine that in the summer it would be bathed by soft sunshine – a place to revisit. I emerged onto a dirt road but quickly left it to follow a small path up to the top of a ridge with great views of the central alps. Eventually I emerged back at the base of Mt Nyukasa. I still wasn’t done, since I had to walk all the way down the mountain. Luckily there was an onsen which I could stop by before hopping on to the train back to Tokyo.

View toward the Ida area of Nagano prefecture

Mt Narukami (980m), Kiryu city, Gunma Prefecture, Sunday November 25

Pure Tochigi – endless mountains

The attraction for this hike are the 360 degrees panoramic views of Southern Tochigi from the top. After what seemed like an endless ascent, popping out of the trees onto the bareless top was quite a relief. Afterwards I continued on a little hiked path towards the North, all the way to Watarase valley, with good views of Mt Nantai and Kusagi dam. A word of caution: the trail was difficult to follow at times and had a lot of ups and downs (when I say a lot, I mean a lot). It’s also a very solitary hike – I only met two runners going in the opposite direction.

A rewarding view after a tough hike

Unfortunately I ended up taking longer than expected and missed the bus for the onsen at the end of the trail. Fortunately I was able to hitchhike to Mizunuma station, where there is an onsen right inside the station. Pretty handy since trains only run once an hour or so.

Kobugahara (1144m) & Mt Yokone (1373), Kanuma city, Tochigi Prefecture, Sunday December 2

This was another great discovery, tucked away in the heart of Tochigi prefecture. I had never heard of it till I stumbled across it in my hiking book (however my Japanese friends knew about it). The top part of the mountain is part farm and part wetlands – an interesting contrast scenery. The most amazing view however was of the view of Mt Nantai and Mt Nyoho – quite unexpected to see them appear above farmland.

Magical view of the high peaks of okunikko

I was so taken by the views that I had to rush going back to catch the bus – I didn’t want to miss it twice in a row! I took a different route down that I was recommended for people with “healthy legs” only. However it was much longer than I had calculated and only managed to catch the bus by doing a 100 meter dash down the last part which was along the road!

Ido Marshland, another hidden secret of Tochigi Prefecture

Mt Shigasakasuwa (1207m), Chichibu mountains, Saitama prefecture, Tuesday December 25

View towards Gunma prefecture

This was a rather short hike motivated by the discovery of a new shared car station in Chichibu station – I absolutely had to try it out! Plus I really enjoy visiting the Chichibu area so this Christmas day hilke was a no-brainer. After a one-hour drive, I reached the small parking area I was the only car – not surprising since the 25th is not a national holiday in Japan.

After a short climb, I reached the top of Mt Shigasakasuwa 志賀坂諏訪山 – the view was OK but not spectacular, not as good as my guidebook has led me to believe. Mt Ryokami was towards against the sun so perhaps it’s better earlier in the day. I opted for a different route down. The beginning was quite pleasant but the lower part was a bit too rocky for my taste. However, I was happy to get some nice views towards the Gunma side, including the top of Mt Asama. On the way back, I stopped at a nice ryokan that allows day trippers to take baths.

Mt Ryokami against the sun

Mt Bonomine (969m) & Mt Arima (1213m), Okutama / Chichibu mountains, Tokyo & Saitama prefectures, in December, Sunday December 30

Last view of Fuji of the year!

My last hike of 2018 was quite difficult but that’s alright since I wanted to challenge myself. I went up Mt Bonomine 棒ノ峰 from the Tokyo side – my 4th time climbing this wonderful mountain, but first time from this side – then hiked west up and down (mostly up though) along the ridge before turning sharply north at Hinatazawa (good view of Mt Fuji) into Saitama prefecture. More up and downs (7 in total) brought me to the unremarkable summit of Mt Arima 有間山, surrounded by trees.

View of Naguri lake from Arima pass

After I left the summit, the trees completely disappeared on the North side giving you sweeping views of the Chichibu area with Mt Ryokami throning in the background. To the South, I could still get occasional glimpses of the Tokyo megalopolis in the distance among the trees. The two contrasting views are really made this part of the hike wonderful. I finished the hike on the Chichibu side, close to lake Urayama side, just on time to make the minibus back to Chichibu city. On the way I was lucky enough to spot some monkeys crossing the road –  a nice way to finish the year!

Last views of 2018 with Mt Ryokami in the back

Although I prefer to go on day trips as much as possible, I do enjoy staying the night of December 31st in a mountain hut and taking part in the Japanese tradition of “hatsuhinode” (初日の出) or seeing the first sunrise of the year on the 1st of January. There is something magical about spending the last hours of the old year and the first hours of the new year near the top of a mountain. In addition to the special year end food and drinks, seeing a beautiful sunrise is a great way to start the new year. The weather is usually excellent in this season, despite being cold, so you can also get in two days of solid hiking.

Here are three places which I recommend for doing hatsuhinode, with their pros and cons:

Hirugadake Lodge 1673m (Kanagawa)

Hirugadake sansou (蛭ヶ岳山荘) sits on top of Mt Hiru (蛭ヶ岳), the highest point of the the Tanzawa mountain range in Kanagawa prefecture, South of Tokyo. It is the hut that has the longest and toughest access, in terms of hiking time and elevation gain.

PROS: Less crowded than other huts, great view of Mt Fuji and night view of Tokyo, summit is just next to the hut

CONS: Early bedtime curfew (around 8pm), not much in terms of New Year celebrations, small snow layer possible

ACCESS: Take the Odakyu line from Shinjuku station to Shibusawa station. There are many buses that can take you to Okura (大倉), the trailhead for for Mt Tonodake, Mt Tanzawa and Mt Hiru (the first two also have lodges open over the New Year period).

Kumotori lodge around 1950m, Tokyo

Kumotori Lodge (雲取山荘) is located below the triangular summit of Mt Kumotori 2017m (雲取山), the highest mountain of Tokyo prefecture. It is the highest and largest of the 3 huts with a capacity of around 200 people.

PROS: “Amazake” (sweet sake) on the evening of the 31st, lively atmosphere and countdown at midnight, relatively comfortable lodge

CONS: Crowded on December 31st, summit is 30 minute from the lodge, some snow possible

ACCESS: If possible try to catch the direct train from Shinjuku station that goes all the way to Okutama station, otherwise you’ll need to transfer once in Ome. From there, it’s a 35 minute bus ride to Torizawa 鳥沢, the start of the trailhead for Mt Kumotori.

Nabewari Lodge 1272m, Kanagawa

Nabewari Lodge (鍋割山荘) is also located in the Tanzawa mountain range, near the top of Mt Nabewari (鍋割) overlooking Sagami Bay. It’s one of the friendliest lodges that I have ever stayed at during my time in Japan. It also has the shortest hiking time of the three.

PROS: “Zouni” (Japanese new year dish) and sake on the morning of the 1st, great view of Mt Fuji, summit is right next to the hut

CONS: The hike down is relatively short, located on a ridge so doesn’t feel like being on the top of a mountain

ACCESS: Same as for Mt Hiru, you’ll need to take the Odakyu line from Shinjuku station to Shibusawa station, and catch the bus for Okura (大倉). However, instead of going straight up, take the path that goes left.

Before you go, there are 3 things you should do before.

First get a map of the mountain so that you can plan your hiking route carefully.

Secondly, call the hut to make a reservation and ask about the trail conditions.

Finally, check the weather before your departure. Although the weather is usually stable around this time of the year, bad weather can always happen.

In any case, be sure to bring warm clothes because it will be very cold while waiting for the first sunrise on the 1st of January 2019!

The official Mt Fuji climbing season only lasts two months a year. From early July to early September, you can safely climb to the top of Japan’s highest peak, 3776m high! If you’ve been mulling it over, but not quite sure where to begin with your preparations, here are 10 simple tips to get you started.

1. Be at the top for the sunrise. You may be wondering whether it’s worth climbing Mt Fuji during the night, or staying overnight in one of the huts. It is a bit of a hassle, since you would lose a good night’s sleep, but considering that the summit is nearly always in the clouds after the mid-morning, it’s worth it just to get an amazing view.

2. Pick a weekday for your climb. Even a Friday climb will almost certainly mean you will be stuck in traffic on the way down on Saturday. The same for a Sunday climb – you’ll get traffic on the way up, delaying your start. Taking a couple of days off in the week will mean avoiding traffic jams, overcrowded huts and lines to reach the top.

3. Get good hiking shoes. Mt Fuji is rocky and some parts can be steep. The sturdier the shoes, the less risk of stumbling and injuring yourself. Don’t forget that new shoes need to be broken in, otherwise you’ll get painful blisters. Take them on a walk or two around the neighbourhood.

4. Make sure you have a waterproof jacket and pants. Since Mt Fuji has its own weather system, it can rain at any moment. Unusually strong wind is also a factor so it’s important to stay dry.

5. Bring warm clothes for the wait at the top. After you reach the top there will be a wait in the pre-dawn cold before sunrise, so bringing warm clothes including gloves and a hat is critical.

6. Train a little beforehand. In case you don’t exercise regularly, you should probably go to the gym 2 or 3 times the week before your climb. I usually use the step machine for 20 minutes and try to climb 100 steps. Remember that after a 3-5 hour climb there is also a 2-3 hour descent. Even though the excitement of the climb may lift you to the top, the long descent is where your muscles really start to ache.

7. Keep an eye on the weather. If a typhoon threatens or if there is a period of bad weather, it may be wiser to reschedule. Google “fuji weather” to get current forecasts.

8. Use the Fujinomiya route. Despite being further and more expensive, it has 3 advantages over the usual Yoshida route. First, it has the highest starting point (2380m). Second, the return can be made down the “Subashiri” sand run – you can run most of the way down in half the time (make sure to turn right for Mt Hoei). Finally, it is less crowded so there is no line to reach the top (click here for the bus times).

9. Get a good map of Mt Fuji. Even though there always tons of people and plenty of English signposts, there are many trails and visibility can sometimes drop to zero in bad weather. Having a good map will help you make the right decision. Also, it will include the walking times.

10. Be self-sufficient when it comes to food and water. Even though you can buy water and food pretty much anywhere on Mt Fuji, this is just a sound principle to stick to when climbing any mountain.

Make sure to check out the official Mt Fuji Climbing Site for the latest information on hiking routes up the mountain.

You might think that the summer months of June, July, August and September are the best time to go hiking. That is only partially true. The main problem is that the high temperatures and humidity make hiking up from a low elevation a torture – I know because I’ve done it. The trick is to use public transport to propulse yourself as high as possible before you need to start climbing. Even better are hikes that start high and consist mainly of flat and downhill walking. 

So, here is a list of 10 lesser-known hiking start points, from highest to lowest, in mountain areas reachable from Tokyo by bus (without using the Tokyo Wide Pass). A word of caution – starting higher also means going further and traveling longer which in turn is more expensive – there is a cost to getting high.

Fujinomiya 5th station 富士宮五合目 2380m

It’s no surprise that the highest point accessible by public transport is on the slopes of the highest mountain in Japan. However, instead of heading for the top, you can hike down to one of the lower stations, or cross over to the Gotemba fifth station, or even do a loop hike via Mt Hoei 宝永山 2693m, a mini-volcano on the flank of Mt Fuji, that was created during the last eruption 300 years ago.

Alternatively can get off at one of the lower stations and head up, if you want to do at least a little climbing. The forest bits are beautiful, and the parts that are devoid of vegetation because of ancient lava flows, offer some great views, when the clouds aren’t in. Best to avoid the Mt Fuji hiking season in July and August, since the buses will be packed.

Check Mt Fuji information on the Japan-Guide website for access information

 

Odarumi Pass 大弛峠 2365m

Only 15 meters lower than Fuji’s highest point, the main attraction here is to do the round trip to Mt Kinpu 金峰山 2599m, the highest peak in the Okutama-tama-kai national park. Most people go this way and the views are great. Another option is to head east towards Mt Kobushi 甲武信ヶ岳 2475m, passing over the highest point in the area, Kita Okusenjo 北奥千丈岳 2601m. Lots of solitary, but beautiful forest hiking. The bus can be taken from Enzan station on the Chuo line, but since it’s rather small it requires prior reservation (Japanese only). On the way you need to change at Yakiyama Toge 焼山峠 1520m – there are some good hiking options around here, although I have yet to explore them.

Subaru Line 5th station スバルライン五合目 2300m

Mt Fuji again – from here you can hike down through the Aokigahara 青木ヶ原 forest to Motosuko lake 本栖湖. Another option is to hike across to Okuniwa 奥庭 and cut across the previous hike and end up Fujikyu Highland. Good views of Mt Fuji and the Kawaguchiko area, as well as beautiful forest hiking on one of the most famous volcanoes in the world. You can catch the bus for the Subaru line from Fujisan 富士山 station.  There are 2 more 5th stations on Mt Fuji, but I won’t add them to the list since they can be connected from the 2 previous ones. 

Once again, go to Japan-Guide for bus information for the Subaru line.

 

Kamihikawa toge 上日川峠 1580m

This is one of my favourite places to go in June. A short hike up will take you top of Mt Daibosatsurei 大菩薩嶺 2057m with good views of Mt Fuji on the way (the top is surrounded by trees). There are a number of trails that will take you down in various directions. Head South and you’ll get back to either Enzan 塩山 or Kai-Yamato 甲斐大和 stations (where you take the bus up). Head North and you’ll end up at Tabayama village 丹波山村, located West of Okutama. You may even see monkeys close to the trail. Most of the trails end up at at a hot spring.

 

Yanagisawa toge 柳沢峠 1480m

This pass is located only a few kilometers Northwest of Daibosatsurei. The bus leaves from Enzan station, and you can hike East to Mt Kurokawakeikan 黒川鶏冠山 1716m, and then on to Daibosatsurei (see above), or head North towards Mt Kasa 笠取山 1953m. I

Matsuhime toge 松姫峠 1250m

Update April 2025: The bus to Matsuhime pass is currently not running due to a landslide that occured in Autumn 2024

This is a good one I discovered recently. You only need to take the Chuo line to Uenohara 上野原 station, and there you can hop on a bus from the newly built bus terminal to Matsuhime toge. Granted the ride is a bit long and does a detour via Kosuge Onsen 小菅温泉, but with a name that translates in English as Princess Pine, that can be forgiven.

From the pass, you can walk down to the aforementioned onsen, or for a longer hike, head west and down to the Tsuru Valley, which runs parallel to the Akigawa valley North. Return is via bus to Uenohara. If you want a shorter bus ride then get off at Tsuru Toge 鶴峠 870m and hike to Mt Mito 三頭山 1531m (return bus can be had from Hinohara Tomin no Mori 檜原都民の森 1000m).

 

Mitsutoge Tozanguchi 三ツ峠登山口 1230m

Instead of hiking up or on Mt Fuji, how about hiking in a place that has great views of the volcano? Up until the beginning of July, Mt Fuji will still have some snow on it, so you’ll still be able to take some memorable photos. The bus leaves from Kawaguchiko 河口湖 station and takes you behind and up the Western side of Mitsutoge, to Mitsutoge tozanguchi 三ツ峠登山口. After that, it’s a short hike to the top, where there are good views. You can then walk back down to Kawaguchiko. Actually the bus continues a little further up to 1300m. However I feel that the hiking options there are less exciting than the ones offered by Mitsutoge.

 

Kirifuri Kogen 霧降高原 1200m

This is a secret Nikko hiking spot, just East of Nikko town. Take the bus from JR Nikko station or Tobu-Nikko station to the Kirifuri highland stop. From there, you can walk up a 1445-step staircase to Komaruyama 小丸山 1601m, and then do a loop hike Mt Maru 丸山 1689m. Another option is to hike all the way down to Kirifuri waterfall, where you can catch the bus back to Nikko station.

 

Mitsumine Shrine 三峰神社 1040m

Mitsumine Jinja is a very famous shrine located in the Chichibu area of Saitama. You’ll need to get a Seibu bus from Mitsumineguchi 三峰口 station. From there you can climb the nearby Mt Myoho 妙法ヶ岳 1332m or/and walk back down to one of the bus stops between the station and the shrine. You could venture up Mt Kumotori 雲取山 2017m but in that case you’ll need to spend the night at the lodge at the top.

 

Michizaka Zuido Iriguchi 道坂隧道入口 1000m

A one-hour bus from Tsurushi 都留市 station on the Fujikyuko line between Otsuki and Kawaguchiko will get you to this pass leading into Doshi valley 道志渓谷. Unfortunately you’ll need to climb a bit to get to the ridgeline. From there you can go left (North) to Mt Imakura 今倉 1470m, or right (South) to Mt Mishotai 御正体 1681m. My recommendation is the former peak, from the top of which you can turn left (West) – there is an onsen at the end the the end of the trail, as well as excellent views of Mt Fuji if the weather allows.

 

Myojin Pass 明神峠 (900m)

Fujikyu runs a seasonal hiking bus from Suguru-Oyama station on the Gotemba line to Myojin-toge in the Tanzawa mountains on weekends from mid-April to mid-November. It’s the jump-off point for hikes to Mt Yubune and Mt Mikuni. The main drawback is that the bus departs relatively early in the morning, requiring a crack of dawn departure from Tokyo; there is also no return bus so hikers need to descend under their own steam. Heading west from Mt Mikuni, it’s possible to finish at a bus stop for Gotemba station, with great views of Mt Fuji along the way. Search for “明神峠ハイキングバス” to find the bus timetables and latest information.

Yamanakako-Oyama Line from near Myojin pass

I’ve already written a series of articles on the very useful Tokyo Wide Pass. Here are some of the latest hikes I’ve done using it, in reverse chronological order. A small side note before I start: an increase in the number of overseas tourists, combined with an increased awareness of the existence of the pass (because of this blog?) has led to longer lines at some sales points, notably Tokyo and Ueno stations. Allow enough time when purchasing it, or choose less central sales points.

• May 5th 2018: Mt Shakagatake 釈迦ヶ岳 1795m. The highest peak of Mt Takaharayama 高原山, a 300 famous mountain in Tochigi Prefecture, one hour by car from Nasushiobara station 那須塩原 (Tohoku shinkansen). Views of the Kanto plain, Mt Nasu, the Ide range and the Nikko mountains. I met a fellow Belgian (living in Tochigi) on the way up and we ended up completing the hike together!

• May 4th 2018: Mt Takeyama 嵩山 789m. Located in Gunma prefecture on the Agatsuma line 吾妻 (from Takasaki), a ten-minute taxi drive from Nakanojo station 中之条 (return can be done on foot in less than an hour). Great views of Mt Haruna, Mt Onoko, Mt Myogi and the Joshinetsu mountains (mountains on the border of Gunma and Niigata prefectures). This was a short hike (2h1/2) so I combined it with the one below (one train stop away).

• May 4th 2018: Mt Iwabitsuyama 岩櫃山 803m. Also located in Gunma prefecture on the Agatsuma line 吾妻. The trailhead is about 30 minutes on foot from either Gohara 郷原 or Gunma-haramachi 群馬原町 stations. WARNING: this hike has lots of chains and dangerous passages. Do not attempt this hike if you are a beginner or if you are afraid of heights. Also great views of Mt Haruna, Mt Onoko, Mt Myogi and the Joshinetsu mountains (mountains on the border of Gunma and Niigata prefectures). Mt Hotaka and Mt Akagi are also visible.

• May 1st 2018: Mt Ogura 御座山 2112m. A 200 famous mountain, located in Nagano prefecture, it is about a 30 minute bus ride (one bus transfer necessary) from Komi 小海 station on the Komi line. By the way, this is a pretty extraordinary train line – the highest station is 1345m high (Nobeyama 野辺山 station)! The Komi line is accesssed from Sakudaira 佐久平 station on the Hokuriku Shinkansen. This is also probably one of the furthest distances you can travel in one day using the pass – 200 km one way! this is because you have to go all the way around the mountainous area that is between the Kanto plain and Yatsugatake. Komi station is only 125km from Tokyo as the crow flies. Return to Komi station is also by bus but from the other (Northern) side of the mountain.  Good views of Yatsugatake, Mt Kinpu and Mt Ryokami.

  

• April 30th: Tatsuiwa 立岩 1265. A Kanto 100 famous mountain in Gunma prefecture, accessed via train (Joshin railway 上信電鉄 from Takasaki), bus from Shimonita 下仁田 station and taxi from Nanmoku 南牧. The trailhead starts at the impressive Sengataki 線ヶ滝 waterfall. WARNING: This hike has a steep section along a gully with loose rocks – be careful not to send any rocks tumbling down below you. Also there is a short section with chains along a rockwall. You need to maintain 3 points of contact at all times when progressing along it. Great views to the south of the Nishijotsu area. Return via the neighbouring mountain (Mt Arafune) to avoid a long walk along on a road from the Tatsuiwa trailhead.

 

• April 30th 2018: Mt Arafune 荒船山 1423m. A 200 famous mountain in Gunma prefecture, next to Tatsuiwa and shaped as a ship. It was my second time climbing it and it was simply a good way to end my hike at an onsen and bus stop (Arafunenoyu 荒船の湯). No views from the the top but before heading down to the onsen, there is a good viewpoint of Mt Myogi from tomoiwa 艫岩. This is on top of a cliff so be careful – the creator of Crayon Shin-Chan fell to his death here while taking a photo.

• April 29th 2018: Mt Yamizo 八溝 1022m. A Kanto 100 famous mountain and the highest peak of Ibaraki prefecture, also on the border of Fukushima prefecture. One hour by car from Nasushiobara 那須塩原 station, you can literally drive to the top where there is a small castle-shaped observation tower (good views of Mt Nasu, Mt Takahara and the Nikko mountains). However for hiking purposes, I stopped at a small parking area about an hour on foot from the top, and did a round trip to Mt Takasasayama 高笹山 (922m) along the southeastern ridge.

 

Here are the previous articles I’ve written concerning the Tokyo Wide Pass:
The Tokyo Wide Pass – Why use it?

Tokyo Wide Pass – Where to go? Part I: Takasaki

Tokyo Wide Pass – Where to go? Part II : Karuizawa

Tokyo Wide Pass – Where to go? Part III : Saku-Daira

Tokyo Wide Pass – Where to go? Part IV : Jomo-Kogen, Echigo-Yuzawa & beyond

Tokyo Wide pass – Where to go? Part V: Nikko and Nasu