David

Mt Komatsu (514m), Mt Shiro (640m) & Mt Yumura (446m), Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, Saturday, November 23, 2024

I was looking for another hike in Yamanashi before the arrival of the snow. I also wanted to stay relatively low since the temperatures had plummeted since the previous week. Looking at my map, I spotted a group of suitable mountains just north of Kofu. I had already done a great hike on the northeast side so I was keen to explore the area more. I saw that I could make an open loop passing by several viewpoints, including an interesting rock formation and a lake, within a reasonable amount of time.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

To get to the start of the hike near Suwa Shrine, I’d ride the Chuo limited express to Kofu station, and from there, ride a bus to a stop within walking distance of the shrine. I’d finish the hike at Yumura Onsen in northwest Kofu, and after a hot spring bath, ride a bus back to the station. The weather was supposed to be clear but cold. I hoped I could get some good views of the surrounding mountains, including Mt Fuji, and still catch the Autumn leaves at their best.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

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Start of the Hike near Suwa Shrine (left) Tall Pines on Mt Komatsu (right)

Exposed Rocks above Kinsu-toge (left) Autumn Colours near Chiyoda Lake (right)

It was a cloudless, blue-sky day as I stepped off the limited express in Kofu station at 10am. I boarded a local bus, the driver even kindly confirmed my destination, and after a short ride, I got off at a stop still within the confines of the city. A few minutes of walking brought me to the foot of the mountains, and after a short climb, I arrived at Hizakutsu-suwa Shrine (膝屈諏訪神社). It was just after 11am as I passed under the stone shinto gate next to an impressive yellow gingko-tree.

Trail below Mt Shiro (left) Trail past Mt Hosenji (right)

Path for Mt Yumura (left) Flagstones for Yumura Castle Ruins (right)

Turning around, I was rewarded with a view of snow-capped Fuji. I made my way to the white shrine building surrounded by tall cedars, and after taking a few minutes to adjust my gear, set off along a level trail at the far end of the shrine grounds. I soon emerged from the trees onto a sports field, and after crossing a busy road, followed a residential street up the mountain side to a staircase below the trail entrance. This section has no signposts and I had to rely entirely on my phone GPS.

Log Steps Leading to the Top of Mt Komatsu

Walking the Takeda no Mori Promenade

I was surprised to see that the trail was partly overgrown, a sign that it was little used in this season; I was even more surprised to notice spiders again, a sign of their resilience to cold weather. Once the path started to climb, the trail became better defined; I saw the first signpost of the day upon reaching a wide path along the top ridge. I turned right, and after climbing a series of log steps, arrived at the top of Mt Komatsu (小松山こまつやま komatsu-yama), the promised view mostly blocked by vegetation.

Heading up to Kinsu-toge

The exposed rocks of Mt Awayuki

I was tempted to take a break at one of the sunny summit picnic tables but since it was barely noon, I decided to press on. Even though the mountain name means “little pine”, it was home to some very tall red pines, one of the 100 famous forests of Yamanashi. I went back down the steps and followed the ridge northwards, soon merging with the Takeda Forest Promenade (武田の森遊歩道 takeda-no-mori-yuhodo named after Takeda Shingen, a famous feudal lord from the Sengoku era), an ancient road connecting Wada and Iwado passes; I had already walked the latter part on my Mt Yogai hike. I strolled along the wide, level path as it followed the mountain side eastwards through the forest.

First view of the day near Kinsu-toge

Mt Fuji, the Misaka Mountains and the Kofu Basin

From time to time, I waved a stick to clear the stubborn spider webs that were too low to duck under, their occupants groggily moving out of the way. Shortly before 1pm, I left the promenade and turned left onto a wide path leading up the mountain side, the webs now thankfully gone. I soon reached Kinsu Pass (679m 金子峠) where I had a view of Mt Fuji between a gap in the trees. I now rejoined a hiking trail, and continued eastwards, soon arriving at a group of white-coloured rocks, called “Exposed Rocks of Mt Awayuki” (702m 淡雪山の露岩あわゆきやまのつゆいわ), similar to the scenery one can find at the nearby Shosenkyo. It was also the highest point of today’s hike.

Mt Kaikoma from the Exposed Rocks

Afternoon Light at Chiyoda Lake

I felt lucky to have such a spot all to myself. Above the pines on the south side, I had a fantastic view of Mt Fuji and the Kofu basin. To the west, I could see Mt Kaikoma, also known for its white rocks, and the long summit ridge of Mt Houou. After taking a few minutes to explore and take photos, I selected a suitable rock to sit on for a lunch break. A little after 2pm, I headed back to Kinsu Pass, and followed the ridge westwards. Here the trail became faint and I had to rely on my phone GPS and the occasional pink ribbon. After a short descent, I reached a proper trail which soon turned into a road through a residential area; at 3pm, I arrived at the edge of Chiyoda lake.

Autumn Colours on the way to the Mt Shiro Viewpoint

Chiyoda Lake from the Mt Shiro Viewpoint

I was dazzled by the reflection of sunlight on the blue water surface and green water plants. I headed up log steps surrounded by red and orange leaves, happy to be back on a hiking trail. After a short climb, I reached an open shelter at the Shiroyama Viewpoint (白山展望台). Directly below was Chiyoda lake; to the west, I could the see the outline of Mt Houu against the fast sinking sun; looking north, I spotted Mt Kaya and the Kurofuji volcanic group, with the white rocks of Shosenkyo in the foreground and the peaks of Yatsugatake in the background. I still had a little way to go to the next summit, so after a short break, I set off again. The up and down trail was easy to follow, and at 3h30, I reached the Hachioji shrine (八王子神社) at the top of Mt Shiroyama (白山しろやま), meaning “white mountain”.

View of Kofu from the top of Mt Shiro

Dark Clouds and Yellow Leaves from Mt Shiro

I was stunned by the view of fleecy clouds spreading from the snowy slopes of Mt Fuji, casting shade over Kofu city’s urban sprawl; luckily, the light still reached the surrounding slopes, lighting them up in gold. I quickly admired the view of the South Alps on the other side of the shrine, before moving on, picking up the pace as I wanted to get down before dark. I descended a steep, sandy trail, the rocky outcroppings and gnarly pines along the way feeling quite typical of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai national park. I was delayed by two more superb viewpoints, the setting sun creating a striking contrast of light and shade, before reaching a level trail, now in the shade. At 4pm, I passed the minor summit of Mt Hosenji (539m 法泉寺山ほうせんじやま), completely within the trees.

The Tip of Mt Fuji hidden by the Clouds

The South Alps from the Top of Mt Shiro

I was suddenly walking on flagstones (“ishidatami), a reminder that today’s last summit was also the location of Yumura castle (湯村城), although only some stone foundations remain today; I had to be careful not to miss my step, especially since the visibility was starting to fade. After a short descent, I reached a fire beacon (“noroshi“), a recent reconstruction of one of the many that used to exist during the Edo period, creating an ancient communication system. One final effort brought me to the open shelter at the top of Mt Yumura (湯村山ゆむらやま yumura-yama), meaning “hot spring village”.

Sun Setting behind Mt Houou

Trail between Mt Shiro and Mt Yumura

I had one last view of Mt Fuji, its top half truncated by a layer of grey clouds. It was 4h30, so I sped back to the fire beacon and headed down a switchback trail on the west side, occasionally taking the well-worn short cuts between the bends. I was relieved to reach Yumura Onsen (湯村温泉) before it was completely dark, arriving at Yumura Hotel just before 5pm. After a refreshing hot spring bath, I caught a bus for Kofu station, where I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

Easy to Follow Trail below Mt Shiro

Last View of the day from Mt Yumura

This hike ended up taking 6 hours, a bit longer than planned, mainly because of the superb views along the way. The section around Mt Shiro was especially stunning, and I’d like a chance to redo in lighter conditions. It deserves to be better known, and it’s a mystery why I saw no other hikers the whole day. In the future, I’d also like to climb Mt Kata (片山) on the other side of Chiyoda lake and also explore more of the Takeda Forest Promenade towards Yogai Onsen. Before that, I definitely want to revisit the white rocks of nearby Shosenkyo.

Watch a Video of the Mt Shiro Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of more Pictures of the Hike

Skiing around Tokyo

Since the skiing season has officially kicked off, why not hit the slopes? Thanks to the shinkansen, several great resorts are within easy reach of Tokyo, even as day trips. Below are my writeups on several resorts in Nagano and Niigata where you can enjoy the fresh powder.

Find Japan Hiking Maps on Japanwilds

Getting Ready to Ski at Nozawa Onsen

Most Hot Springs: Nozawa Onsen

Skiing in Nagano: Nozawa Onsen (600m-1600m)

Easiest Access: Madarao Kogen

Skiing in Nagano: Madarao Kogen (900m-1300m)

Skiing in Nagano: Madarao Kogen (900m-1300m) Part II

Biggest Resort: Shiga Kogen

Skiing in Nagano: Shiga Kogen (1300m-2300m)

Longest Season: Myoko Kogen

Skiing in Niigata: Myoko Kogen (800m-1800m)

Best Views: Togakushi Ski Resort

Skiing in Nagano: Togakushi Ski Resort (1300m-1800m)

Mt Dodaira (875m) & Mt Kasa (837m), Tokigawa & Ogawa Towns, Saitama Prefecture, Sunday, November 17, 2024

I had already done the Tokigawa Trekking Trail in February 2017, at the end of a long hike and partly in the dark. I wanted to experience this excellent trail in better conditions and in a different season, so I decided to redo it but in reverse, east to west, starting from Ryozen-in, a short distance past Jiko Temple. After summiting Mt Dodaira, if time allowed, I’d continue to neighbouring Mt Kasa, before descending the valley into Higashi-Chichibu. The weather was supposed to be sunny and unseasonably warm, as it had been for the past 2 weeks.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Trail past Kanmuri-iwa (left) Trail past Mori-no-hiroba (right)

Contrails above the Trail (left) Log steps for the Steep Sections (right)

To get to the start of the hike, I’d take a Tobu-Tojo express train from Ikebukuro to Ogawamachi, and from there, a taxi to Jiko-ji, which I had already done earlier in the year. I’d finish at the starting point for the Higashi-chichibu Village line bus back to Ogawamachi station. I’d be skipping the first part of the trail, the climb from the prefectural road, but I wanted to ensure I could do the later part of the hike in optimal conditions. I was looking forward to revisiting a familiar area and seeing some more autumn colours.

Tokigawa Trekking Trail ときがわトレッキングコース

Trail before Matsu-no-ki-toge (left) Arriving at Matsu-no-ki-toge (right)

Heading to Dodaira Observatory (left) Descending into Higashi-Chichibu (right)

It was a blue-sky day as I rode the express train to Ogawamachi. After buying lunch and water at the convenience store opposite the station, I rode a taxi to Ryozen-in Temple (霊山院), a peaceful place in the middle of the forest, completely deserted as when I was last there 7 years ago. After quickly getting ready, I set off at 11am, following the stone markers for the Tokigawa Trekking Trail. I was surprised how warm it still felt, although a cold wind occasionally blew through the trees.

Sunny Trail past Nanae-toge Rest Spot

Arriving at Mori-no-hiroba

I was concerned to see webs and spiders, hanging from nearby branches. I had hoped I wouldn’t have to deal with “jorogumo” spiders past mid-November but apparently the unusually warm weather had extended their life cycle. Fortunately, I was walking along a level forest road with little chance of webs spanning its width. I soon left the forest road, following a sign for the observatory (天文台 “tenmondai“) up some steps on the right. At 1130, I arrived at Kanmuri rock (冠岩 “kanmuri-iwa“), merging with my May hike. However this time, I continued straight.

Susuki above Mori-no-hiroba

Cirrus Clouds High in the Sky

I was delighted to be following a level trail through tall cedars, the shade welcome on this unseasonably warm day. Very soon, I reached a road which the Tokigawa Trekking Trail then follows to the Nanae Pass Rest Spot (七重峠休憩所); however, I opted to take a path on the other side of the road, a more direct route to the rest spot. Past that point, I was again following a forest road, the midday light filtering nicely through the trees. At Mori-no-hiroba (森の広場), I turned right, onto some log steps taking me straight up the mountain side, out of the trees and through a field of “susuki” or Japanese Pampas grass.

Looking back at the Oku-musashi Mountains

Aiming for the Contrails

I was excited to be surrounded again by pampas grass swaying in the breeze, reminding me of last year’s hike on Mt Shakushi. As I climbed the switchback trail, in and out of mini cedar forests, a wide view of the Oku-musashi hills gradually opened up on the south side. After a short, steep section, I arrived at Matsu-no-ki Pass (松の木峠), with a sitting space and a solitary pine, a good place for a breather. Through the vegetation on the north side, I could see the Kanto Plain and the foothills of Mt Akagi.

South View below Matsu-no-ki-toge

An Easy to Walk Trail

This was by far the best part of the hike, the wild scenery complementing the outstanding views. Overhead, cirrus cloud and contrails spread across the sky, announcing a change in the weather. I was puzzled, and grateful at the same time, that more people hadn’t chosen this great trail today. I soon continued on my way, along a short, level section through bright green pine saplings leading to the final climb before the summit. Before reentering the forest, I turned around for one last look.

Final Steps before Matsu-no-ki-toge

Green Saplings and South View from Matsu-no-ki-toge

I was amazed by the plunging view, even though I was relatively low. I could now see beyond the Oku-musashi hills to the hazy Kanto plain in the distance. At 2pm, I arrived at “Stars and Green Creation Center” campground (星と緑の創成センター), where I was able to enjoy a multitude of yellow, orange and red Japanese cedars or “momiji“. Shortly after, I reached the highest point of Mt Dodaira (堂平山どうだいらさん doudaira-san) for the 3rd time (the first time was in 2011), also a famous 100 mountain of the Kanto area, known for its white dome observatory used for stargazing on clear nights.

Looking back at the Sole Pine of Matsu-no-ki-toge

The Kanto Plain past the Oku-musashi Hills

The summit view was less clear than on my previous visit: directly ahead, the mountains of Higashi-chichibu extended northwards; on the west side, however, I could only make out a vague outline for the Oku-chichibu mountains, high-altitude clouds coming in from the west. The cold breeze from the morning had vanished, and it was quite pleasant at the top of the highest mountain in the area. After a short lunch break, I continued on my way, escaping the company of other people, most of whom had driven to the top.

Autumn Colours near the Top of Mt Dodaira

View of Higashi-chichibu from Mt Dodaira

I was glad to be once again walking on a level dirt road, after the steep one-hour climb to the top. I had reached the end of the Tokigawa Trekking Trail and was now walking along the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Trail (外秩父七峰縦走ハイキングコース soto-chichibu-shichihou-juusou haikingu kosu), a 42km loop connecting Ogawamachi and Yorii stations. However, I’d only be doing a short portion today. I passed the paragliding jump-off point, sadly deserted today, and reentered the forest.

Walking the Outer Chichibu 7 Peak Traverse Hiking Route

Heading down through the Forest

It was great to be walking through the trees with the trail all to myself, the surrounding forest beautiful in the late afternoon light. After a short descent, I reached a road at Nanae Pass (七重峠), my third time crossing the same road. I alternated between hiking paths and the roads for a short while, and at 3pm arrived at the trail entrance for today’s next mountain. I had more than an hour before my bus so I headed up a steep slope through a dark cedar forest in sharp contrast to the previous section. I soon reached the top ridge and a summit sign.

Walking near Nanae-toge

Ogawamachi View from Mt Kasa

I continued without stopping as I knew that the true summit, five meters higher, was a few more minutes along the ridge. At 3h30, I arrived at Kamisha Shrine (神社上社) and the top of My Kasayama (笠山かさやま kasayama), meaning Mt Umbrella, also a 100 famous mountain of Kanto. To the east I had a view towards Ogawamachi; on the west side, I had a glimpse through the trees of the Oku-Chichibu mountains, looking dark and menacing under grey clouds. I quickly retraced my steps back to the road, leaving the Outer Chichibu 7 Peaks Traverse Hiking Route, and darted down a path between the guardrails on the left side.

Oku-chichibu View from Mt Kasa

Path for Shiroishi-shako Bus Stop

It was much darker now under the trees, the weather having unexpectedly turned cloudy on the Higashi-chichibu side. I walked at quick pace, the path following the mountain side and descending gradually. A little after 4pm, I reached Shiroishi-shako bus stop where I boarded an empty bus waiting for the departure time. By 5pm, I was back at Ogawamachi station, where I was able to pick up some Okara donuts from Shimizuya before boarding the train for the one hour ride back to Ikebukuro.

Watch a Video of the Tokigawa Hiking Trail Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures

Happy New Year 2025

Thank you for following and subscribing to Hiking Around Tokyo in 2024, as well as liking and commenting on blog posts. It’s always a pleasure to get feedback on hike writeups and help fellow hikers get into the mountains.

This year saw the launch of Japanwilds, where you can find high-quality digital maps for hiking in Japan, as well as hike descriptions from bloggers around Japan. Please make sure to have a look and subscribe for future updates, thank you!

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Below are some numbers from the past year:

In 2024, I completed 33 day hikes (7 are yet to be published), the same number as in 2023, down from 38 in 2022 and 2021. I missed a handful of weekends in the early spring due to rainy weather, as well as a bunch in the summer due to high temperatures and humidity. On the bright side, I was able to hike every weekend from October till the end of the year, thanks to better weather in Autumn.

Saitama and Kanagawa had the most hikes, six each, followed by Yamanashi (5), Tokyo (4), Tochigi (3), Nagano (3), Shizuoka (2), Chiba (2), Gunma (1) and Fukushima (1). Sadly, no hikes in Niigata, nor Ibaraki this year; however, a couple were close to Ibaraki, with good views of the Abukuma Mountains. Ease of access and an abundance of mountains and trails explains why Saitama, Kanagawa and Yamanashi top this list.

The furthest location reached by train was Koriyama Station (200km) in Fukushima, followed by Kamisuwa Station in Nagano and Shizuoka station (both 150km). I used limited express trains for 14 hikes, local lines for 12 and the shinkansen for 7. I’m using bullet and express trains more and more, as they enable me to comfortably reach new destinations. From stations, I used local buses for 21 hikes, taxis and share cars 5 times each. I could still find 4 excellent station to station hikes.

The highest peak was Mt Washi (1798m), also the best 360° view of the year, and the highest elevation was Ama-ike Pass (2241m), both in Northern Yatsugatake. The lowest mountain was Mt Kinugasa (134m) on the Miura Peninsula. I reached about 50 summits, the tally varying on whether minor mountains are included or not; Mt Takao and Mt Ogusu were summited twice via different routes. Twelve of those peaks were repeats, also via different routes. I saw Mt Fuji six times and climbed 3 peaks with “Fuji” in their name. I visited 12 hot springs, among which 5 were first-time visits. Finally, I saw 3 snakes, leading up to year of the Snake.

Looking forward to more hiking in 2025!

Kurofuji (1633m) & Mt Masugata (1650m), Kai & Kofu Cities, Yamanashi Prefecture, Saturday, November 9, 2024

I wanted to do another hike in the mountains of Yamanashi, as well as get some more views of Mt Fuji; I also wanted to go driving one last time before the mountains roads closed for winter. I decided to head to the southwestern Oku-Chichibu mountains, last visited in 2017 when I climbed Mt Kaya. Last year, I had planned, but not done, a hike in that area, a roundtrip to two neighbouring peaks of the Kurofuji volcanic group. They were featured in my guidebook but with a different route up the northeast side that was no longer used; for my hike, I’d go up and down the same route via Hatcho Pass on the southwest side.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

To get to the trail entrance, I’d take the Chuo line limited express to Kofu, and then, since Kai city buses only run to the area on weekdays, drive a share car to a parking spot near Kurofuji Farm. The weather was supposed to be sunny with mild temperatures, usual for this time of the year. As to the mountain name Kurofuji (“black Fuji”), apparently when seen from its neighbour peak on the north side, it looks like a dark version of Mt Fuji (also visible in the background). I was looking forward to seeing this effect with my own eyes, as well as enjoying the autumn colours, which I hoped would now be at their best.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Autumn Colours and Blue Sky just below Hacho-toge

Larches and Grass on the way to Kurofuji

It was a perfect autumn day as I arrived in Kofu around 10am. After locating my share car, it took about an hour to drive to the small parking area near the start of the hike. After getting ready, I finally set off just as the noon chime was ringing. After walking past Kurofuji Farm, I left the paved road for a signposted trail on the right. I soon found myself walking up a narrow valley along a mountain stream, the rushing sound of water soothing the mind. At one point, I saw a white deer skull on the ground. After crossing the stream on a flimsy log bridge, I passed a couple of hikers heading down, the only other people I saw on today’s hike.

View of Mt Fuji from the South Side of Kurofuji

Southwest Oku-Chichibu with Mt Obina (center)

I was surprised by how quickly the trail became hard to follow; even with my phone GPS, I found myself off the path a couple of times. Fortunately, since it simply followed the valley all the way to the top of this ancient crater, I was soon back on track. About an hour after setting off, I reached a steeper, rockier area, a sure sign that was nearing the rim. The beautiful scenery of yellow leaves with a blue sky background slowed me down a bit, but at 1h30, I reached Hacho-toge (八丁峠) where I turned right along a well-trodden and gently rising trail, mixed forest giving way to tall larches.

Mt Magari (left), Yatsugatake (back) & Mt Masugata (right) from Kurofuji

Mt Mizugaki (left), Mt Kinpu (center) & Mt Kokushi (right) from Kurofuji

This was perhaps the nicest part of the hike, the evenly spaced larches and grassy terrain giving an impression of wide open space, even though the trees had already lost most of their needles. I was reminded that I was now inside the western edge of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. After a short while, I was again climbing through bare trees and over rocky terrain, and at 2pm, reached the summit of Kurofuji (黒富士くろふじ), a hundred famous mountain of Yamanashi. I could see the South Alps and Mt Kaya to the southwest, but the other directions were blocked by trees. My guidebook mentioned that a better view could be had just below the highest point so I headed down a path on the south side leading to a superb viewpoint at the top of a cliff.

Kurofuji (left) and Mt Fuji (right) from the trail for Mt Masugata

Yatsugatake (left) and Mt Meshimori (right) from Mt Masugata

I carefully sat on a rocky ledge with a small, gnarly pine at my back, keeping a safe distance from the edge. From my perch, I could see Mt Fuji directly ahead; against the sun, it appeared as a black triangle, and I couldn’t tell whether the first snow of the season had fallen. To its right, were the Central Alps, and to its left were the Oku-Chichibu mountains, Mt Obina being the sole recognisable peak. After a short lunch break, I retraced my steps, and followed the summit ridge to another breathtaking viewpoint on the north side, on top of some large rocks protruding from the mountain side.

Mt Kinpu from Mt Masugata

The Oku-Chichibu Mountains from the top of Mt Masugata

Standing on top of one of these rocks, I was astounded by the golden colours covering the mountains sides directly below, patches of grey indicating that the leaves were already past their peak at this elevation. I could see Mt Magari and Mt Marugata, and between them, Yastugatake in the far distance. Turning to the north side, I could see some of the highest summits of the Oku-Chichibu mountains: Mt Mizugaki, Mt Kinpu and Mt Kokushi. Amazingly, the area in-between has almost no hiking trails and few access roads, one of the few wild places in the Tokyo area. I was starting to fall behind schedule so I pulled myself away from the view and headed back the same way; I soon arrived at the intersection for today’s next peak, where I turned right. As I walked up the grassy path, Kurofuji suddenly came into view on the right side.

“Black Fuji” view from the Summit of Mt Masugata

Kurofuji with Mt Fuji in the background

I was excited to already have a view of “black fuji” even before reaching the second summit; viewed from the north side, the conical shape of Kurofuji was nearly entirely in the shade. To its right, I could see the top of Mt Fuji popping up through the clouds; in foreground, golden “susuki” swayed in the light breeze. I continued at a fast pace up the switchback trail, and at 3pm, reached the base of a huge rock. A quick scramble up some natural steps brought me to the narrow, flat top of Mt Masugata (升形山ますがたやま masugata-yama), the name meaning shaped like a “masu” (a square wooden box used for drinking sake), an apt description for this summit.

Late Afternoon Light just before Hatcho Pass

Late Atfernoon Light just after Hatcho Pass

I was glad to have the summit to myself, as there wasn’t much space on top of the “masu“; I could also enjoy the breathtaking 360° view in perfect silence. To the west was Mt Yatsugatake; on the north side, I could see Mt Kinpu; and finally, turning southwards, was the view of Kurofuji with Mt Fuji in the background. It was only partially dark; perhaps a different time or season is needed for a full blackout. It was now 3h30, so I carefully got off the “masu” and quickly made my way back to Hacho Pass and then down the steep valley. The Autumn colours were even more beautiful in the late afternoon light and the trail was easier to follow on the return even after the sun had dipped below the ridgeline. Shortly before recrossing the stream, I spotted a white antler on the ground, to complement the skull I saw on the way up. At 4h30 I was back at my car, and by 5pm, I was on my way back to Kofu city just as it was getting dark.

Watch a video of the Kurofuji Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Obatake (1117m) & Mt Hiru (1280m), Ichikawa-misato Town, Yamanashi Prefecture, Sunday, November 3, 2024

I had wanted to visit Shibireko Lake ever since I’d found out about it from the Yuru Camp anime. Looking online, I recently found out that it was possible to hike from the lake to a nearby mountain with a view of Mt Fuji. Along the way, it was also possible to make a short detour to another summit with a view of the Kofu basin. Outside these two viewpoints, the hike was mostly in the trees, perfect for seeing the autumn leaves, hopefully at their peak. The hike, up and down the same way, was on the short side, ideal for the shorter days of Autumn.

Hiking in the Misaka Mountains 御坂山地

To reach the start of the trail, I’d ride the Chuo line Limited Express to Kofu, and then drive the rest of the way, as there is no public transport to the lake. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures warm for the season. I was looking forward to seeing Mt Fuji with new snow on its summit and hoped that, although the lake was no longer a secret due to the recent camping boom, the trail would still be relatively unknown.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Get a Map of the Mt Hiru Hike

This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer

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Minami Alps (left), Yatsugatake (back center) & Kofu Basin from Mt Obatake

Yatsugatake (left), Oku-Chichibu (right) & Kofu Basin from Obatakeyama

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the limited express, arriving at Kofu station at 1030. By 11am, I was driving south, towards the South Alps, still completely free of snow. Shortly after noon, I pulled into the large parking lot belonging to Sumeiso Lodge, also available to day-trippers for a small fee; I had passed almost no cars during the drive up the two-lane Shibireko-koen line, a good sign for today’s hike. After getting ready, I set off at 1230, walking up the mountain side and away from the lake, hidden from view by the thick forest.

Narrow Section of the Hirugatake Trail

Sun Shining through the Trees Halfway to Hirugatake

It was a steep but short climb to the ridgetop, where I turned left along a level trail. At 1pm, I emerged onto the flat top of Mt Obatake (大畠山 oobatakeyama), with a bench and a view on the west side, as well as a telecommunication tower. I could see the South Alps, Yatsugatake and the Oku-Chichibu mountains; directly below, was the triangular-shaped Kofu Basin (kofu-bonchi), the urban sprawl running right up to the base of the mountains and the blue ribbon of the Kamanashi river splitting it in half. I settled on the summit bench for a thirty-minute lunch break then retraced my steps to the ridgetop intersection.

Snowless Fuji from the Summit of Hirugatake

Mt Fuji (left), Mt Ryu (center) & Mt Kenashi (right) from Hirugatake

I was relieved to see that this trail was still a well-kept secret as I saw few hikers along the way. The trail alternated between level and gently climbing sections; a couple of narrow traverses required careful walking. The Autumn leaves were still turning at this elevation but the surrounding forest was beautiful. A little after 2pm, I reached Nishikata Pass (西肩峠) where I turned left for the final climb to the summit. At 2h30, I was standing at the top of Mt Hiru (蛾ヶ岳ひるがたけ hirugatake meaning Mt Moth), a Yamanashi 100-famous mountain. Although the name sounds the same as the highest peak of the Tanzawa mountains, it’s written with a different Chinese character.

Closeup of Mt Fuji from Hirugatake

Autumn Colours at their Peak around the Top of Hirugatake

I was stunned to see that Mt Fuji still was completely snowless. However, its perfect cone on a blue sky background was beautiful even without its trademark white cap. To its right, I could see Mt Ryu and the long summit ridge of Mt Kenashi, with splendid autumn colours in the foreground; on the west side, I had a view similar to the one from the previous peak, but from a higher vantage point; I could also see the ridgeline I had walked between today’s two mountains. After a short break on the summit bench, enjoying the gorgeous view all by myself, I headed back down the same way.

Mt Kenashi from Hirugatake

The Minami Alps from Hirugatake

I enjoyed the solitary stroll back through the forest, the scenery looking slightly different in reverse. Through gaps in the trees, I had views of the Misaka mountains on the north side. One hour later, I was back at the nearly empty parking lot. Since I still had half an hour before sunset, I decided to quickly walk around Shibireko Lake (四尾連湖) before heading back.

Walking back to Shibireko Lake

Walking around Shibireko Lake

I was surprised to see that the campsite extended around the entire south half of the lake; some spots almost felt like wild camping. Even at dusk, people were still rowing boats across the lake. Half an hour later, I had completed my tour. After checking out the Yuru Camp related exhibits inside Sumeiso Lodge, I hurried back to my share car for the one hour drive back to Kofu station. There I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Tokyo.

Shibireko Sumeiso Lodge

After Sunset at Shibireko Lake

The entire hike, including the lake loop, took about 4 hours. The view from the top of Mt Hiru was much better than I had imagined and deserves a place among the best mountain tops to view Mt Fuji. The hiking trail extends west from Mt Obatake and east from Mt Hiru and I hope to explore them one day in the future. This was my third Yuru Camp inspired hike, the first two being Takapotchi Highland and Hottarakashi Onsen. This was also my first proper sighting of Mt Fuji since Mt Sasagogangaharasuri in January of this year, and hopefully not the last one!

Watch a Video of the Mt Obatake & Mt Hiru Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Shirakoma & Ama Ponds (Highest Point 2241m), Chino City and Sakuho Town, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, October 27, 2024

I had last visited the Northern Yatsugatake Mountains 6 years ago. This time, I wanted to check out two small lakes above 2000m and situated between Mt Tengu and Mt Kitayoko; I also wanted to explore the “Moss Path” near Mugikusa Pass. I’d start from the top of the Kita-Yatsugatake ropeway and walk counterclockwise around Mt Shimagare and Mt Chausu, climbed 10 years ago. Back then I stayed overnight at the Shimagare Lodge. However, in October the ropeway operated till 5pm, late enough for a day trip.

Hiking in the Yatsugatake-Chushin Kogen Quasi-National Park 八ヶ岳中信高原国定公園

Hiking on Kita-Yatsugatake 北八ヶ岳

To get to the start of my hike, I’d take the Chuo line limited express to Chino station and then catch an Alpico bus for the 40-minute ride to the ropeway; I’d use the same route for the return. The weather was supposed to be mostly cloudy, but no rain was forecast, maybe even a little sunshine in the late morning. I decided to head out as the next weekend the ropeway would run only till 4pm; also my main purpose was to see the lakes and mossy undergrowth. I was looking forward to what would probably be the last high-altitude hike of the year.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

The hiking trails followed on this hike can be found on the Japanwilds map for Mt Shimagare and Mt Chausu, available for free with the Avenza app

Forest Bathing Observation Deck Route from the Kita-Yatsugatake Ropeway (left) Moss Path in the Yatsugatake Nature Recreation Forest (right)

Moss Path in Onodachi Forest (left) Walkway in Kokuyo Forest (right)

The sun was still shining as I rode the limited express to Chino, arriving there a little past 9am. From the bus, I could see the autumn colours around Tateshina lake, and I made a mental note to plan a hike there next year. Shortly after 10am, I was standing inside the full ropeway cabin (fits 100 people) as it rose from 1800m to over 2200m. After getting ready, I took a few minutes to enjoy the view of the South and Central Alps from the outside terrace; directly behind was the rounded top of Mt Shimagare.

Shirakoma Inner Garden (left) Walkway through Chamizu Forest (right)

The Ogawara Pass Forest Road (left) Walkway to Ama-ike Pond (right)

The mists had started to roll in, Mt Kitayoko and Mt Tateshina were already hidden in thick clouds. I set off before the next load of ropeway passengers arrived at 11am, and made my way along the Forest Bathing Observation Deck Route (森林浴展望台コース shinrinnyoku tenbodai kosu). I had done this route before but in reverse. I soon reached an open space where I had a view of the grassy highland of Kirigamine. After 11am, I passed the observation deck, the view partly obscured by trees, and left the wooden walkway for a proper hiking trail.

Walkway to Ama-ike Pond (left) Path for Amaike-toge (right)

Before Amaike-toge (right) After Amaike-toge (left)

The trail was rockier than I had remembered and my progress was slower than expected. At 1130, just past the Go-Tsuji intersection, I arrived at an open rest place opposite a beautiful bright orange larch, one of the few autumn leaves I saw on today’s hike. Soon after, I entered the Yatsugatake Nature Recreation Forest (八ヶ岳自然休養林 Yatsugatake shizen-kyuyo-rin) and I found myself walking through an enchanting forest with mossy undergrowth, the path now aptly named “Koke no Michi” (苔の道) or the Moss Path. Around this point, today’s hike diverged from the one I had done ten years ago.

Central Alps from the Top of the Kita-Yatsugatake Ropeway

Start of the Shinrinyoku Tenbodai Route

I was amazed by the sheer amount of bright green moss covering everything close to the ground; perhaps there was more than usual due to the higher than average rainfall this year. At noon, I crossed the busy Marchen Road connecting Chino city with Sakuho town, and continued along the Moss Path, now inside the Mist Garden (狭霧園地 sagiri-enchi), although no mist was hanging around at the time. After a short climb, I arrived at Onodachi Forest (斧断ちの森), mostly made up of slender birches.

Walking through the Mist Garden

Passing through Onodachi Forest

I enjoyed the combined effect of the white birch trunks and light green moss on my solitary stroll through the higher reaches of the Yatsugatake-Chushin Kogen Quasi-National Park (八ヶ岳中信高原国定公園). At 1230, I passed the bright red roof of the Mugikusa Hut; beyond, the top of Mt Chausu was temporarily free of clouds. I turned left onto a side trail leading through Kokuyo Forest (黒曜の森), the name referring to a dark green coloured moss. I then exited the forest and entered the Shirakoma Inner Garden (白駒中庭), blue patches appearing in the sky above, giving me hope for the afternoon.

Following the Moss Path

Entering the Shirakoma Inner Garden

I was thankful for the wooden walkway allowing me an easy passage above a tangle of rocks and creeping pine (這い松). After a short up and down through Shirakoma Forest, I finally arrived at Shirakoma Pond (白駒池). It was past 1pm so I took a lunch break inside a pond-side open shelter. Here, I had rejoined the crowds so I decided to skip a walk around the pond, and quickly headed back to Marchen Road which I followed to Mugikusa Pass. There, I ducked down a small trail on the right, leading through Chamizu Forest (茶水の森), all by myself once again.

Beyond is Shirakoma Forest and Shirakoma Pond

Grey Clouds above Shirakoma-ike Pond

The clouds had wrestled back control of the skies and it started to look like it might rain after all; this was also the most isolated part of the hike through somber and silent forest. I quickened my pace and by 2pm reached the Ogawara Forest Road (大河原林道) although I left it shortly after for yet another walkway. Half an hour later, I reached the far side of Ama Pond (雨池), meaning rain pond. It was smaller than indicated on my map and most likely reaches its full size after heavy rain or the spring snowmelt.

Walkway to Ama-ike Pond

Far Side of Ama-ike Pond

I was startled by a loud barking noise and looking at the opposite shore, I saw deer jump away into the forest; I wasn’t alone after all. I was back on schedule so I decided to walk around this pond. On the other side, I had a better view of the blue pond water; above the trees on the opposite bank, low clouds were blowing by quickly, a sure sign of a change in weather. As I started to climb up through the forest, I suddenly caught sight of a majestic stag with huge antlers; it was standing guard while his doe escaped. I rejoined the forest road but soon turned left up a steep trail through thick forest.

Near Side of Ama-ike Pond

Mist on Amaike-toge

I found myself surrounded by swirling white mist as I emerged from the forest at Amaike Pass (雨池峠). It was now 3h30, leaving me ample time before the last ropeway. I followed the final walkway of the day, down a small valley past Shimagare Lodge where I spent the night ten years ago, merging with my previous hike in the area. At 4pm I was back at the top of the ropeway; half an hour later I was riding a mostly empty bus back to Chino station where I boarded the limited express for the 2-hour trip back to Tokyo.

The hiking trails followed on this hike can be found on the Japanwilds map for Mt Shimagare and Mt Chausu, available for free with the Avenza app

Watch a Video of the Shirakoma and Ama Ponds Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Zebra (1776m) & Mt Washi (1798m), Shimosuwa town, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, October 20, 2024

I had been to the Kirigamine Highlands about eight years ago so I felt it was time for another visit. Back then, I had rented a car from Kofu and summited the highest point, Mt Kuruma, a 100 famous mountain of Japan; this time, I decided to go by bus and up a couple of minor peaks on both sides of the Yashimagara Marsh. I was hoping to catch the autumn colours at their peak, at the risk of encountering crowds of people.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

To get the start of the hike, I’d ride the Chuo line limited express to Kami-Suwa, a little over 2 hours from Shinjuku, and there, catch an Alpico bus for Kuruma Highland; I’d use the same bus for the return. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day but cold for the season. On top of the autumn scenery, I was looking forward to getting some good views of the mountains of Nagano.

Hiking in the Kirigamine Highlands

霧ヶ峰高原

Hiking in the Yatsugatake-Chūshin Kōgen Quasi-National Park 八ヶ岳中信高原国定公園

Autumn Colours at Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

View towards Kuruma Kogen

It was a surprisingly cloudy day as I rode the limited express towards Nagano, although the updated weather forecast announced that the clouds would melt away by noon. It felt really cold as I got off at Yashimagara-shitsugen (八島ヶ原湿原), after a 45-minute ride on a packed bus. I popped into the Yashima Visitor Center to check out the exhibits and warm up, before heading to the wooden walkway circling the marshland at 11am, under leaden skies.

Kuruma Kogen from Mt Zebra

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh from Mt Zebra

I was glad to see that autumn colours were on schedule, despite the warmer than average temperatures of the past few weeks, somewhat muted due to the overcast sky. I set off at a brisk pace to warm up, counter-clockwise around the marshland; I passed by the Okugiri Hut around noon, now walking under blue skies. I followed the main trail for Mt Kuruma for a short while before turning left onto a small path leading to today’s first summit.

Heading back to Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

Heading towards Mt Washi

I felt energised by the shining sun, enabling me to keep a fast pace up the mountain, reaching the top of Mt Zebra (ゼブラ山 zebura-yama also known as Mt Omekura 男女倉山おめくらやま) at 12h30. Apparently melting snow in the spring looks likes Zebra stripes. I could see the crown of Mt Tateshina rising above the grasslands of Kuruma Highland; looking north, I could see the flat top of Utsukushigahara, and the long ridgeline connecting it to Kirigamine. Looking south, I could see the highest points of Mt Ontake, the Central and South Alps floating above the clouds; directly below, was Yashimagahara Marsh.

Approaching Kama Pond on Yashima-ga-Hara

Oni-no-sensui Pond on Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh

I was stunned by the bird’s eye view of the rusty red marsh. I hurried down the same way, feeling warm under the midday sun, and was soon back on the marsh-side walkway. After passing Kama and Oni-no-sensui Ponds, I reached an open area with a view of the entire marsh, as well as the rolling hills of Kuruma Highland in the background. At 1h30, I turned left onto a hiking trail, leaving the marsh behind. After a short climb, I reached the trailhead for today’s second peak.

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh and Kuruma Kogen

Start of the Hike for Mt Washi

I was surprised by the alpine beauty of the surrounding landscape as I made my way up the rocky path though pines, especially since I was on a day trip from Tokyo. Very soon, I had another bird’s eye view of the marsh, this time with the highest peaks of the Yatsugatake range visible in the background. To its right was the Yashima Visitor Center, and looming up directly behind it, was the outline of the South Alps, now nearly completely free of clouds.

View of Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh from the Mt Washi Trail

The Yashima Visitor Center and the South Alps

It was short but pleasant hike along the top ridge with sweeping views on both sides. Shortly after 2pm, I arrived at the summit of Mt Washi (鷲ヶ峰わしがみね washigamine). The name could translate as “Eagle Peak” and the panorama certainly made me feel like an eagle soaring high in the sky. Looking north, I could now see the rounded top of Mt Asama, as well as the flat top of Mt Arafune; westwards, in addition to Utsukushigahara, I could also see Mt Hachibuse, and in the far distance, poking out of the clouds, Mt Hotaka, Mt Tsurugi and Mt Shirouma, three famous peaks from the North Alps.

Mt Tateshina from the Mt Washi Trail

Ridgeline leading to Mt Washi

Looking south, I was most impressed by the view of Suwa lake with the Central Alps in the background, against the sun so challenging to take in photo. Suwa lake inspired the lake in the Your Name movie so I was glad to see it from above. Between the Yatsugatake range and the South Alps, I was surprised to spot the conical summit of Mt Fuji, rising from the clouds. After a short lunch break, I headed back the same way.

View of Suwa Lake from Mt Washi

Yatsugatake from Mt Washi

Mt Fuji between Yatsugatake and the South Alps

I had fantastic views of the entire range of the Yatsugatake range doing the path in reverse. After one last look at the triangular shape of Yashimagahara Marsh, I made my way down the last part of the trail, arriving back at the Yashima Visitor Center a little before 3h30, well on time for the return bus. One hour later, I was at Suwa station where I could take a foot bath directly on the platform while waiting for the limited express that would whisk me back to Tokyo.

Heading back to the Yashima Visitor Center

Yashima-ga-Hara Marsh and Yatsugatake

This hike took about 4 hours, shorter than expected, giving me plenty of time to enjoy the stunning views. I passed fewer people than expected, maybe because the area is more famous for its spring and summer flowers. I felt lucky with the timing of the Autumn leaves and the excellent weather. I’d like to return to the area in the future to hike more of the ridgeline towards Utsukushigahara, although I’d probably have to rent a car for this.

Watch Video of the Mt Zebra and Mt Washi Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

The Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (highest point 824m), Komoro City, Nagano Prefecture, Sunday, October 13, 2024

I was looking for another hike in the Saku area since it had been one year since my previous visit. Searching online, I found a loop hike using parts of the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (Japanese only); it was mostly along small roads and country lanes, ideal for avoiding Jorogumo spiders that hang out along forested trails in the early Autumn. Another benefit of walking through the countryside in this season is to enjoy the scenery of golden rice fields, ready to be harvested. The weather was supposed to be sunny and warm all day, welcome news after two consecutive cloudy weekends.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

I would start from Komoro station, a short ride on the Shinano Tetsudo line from Karuizawa, easily reachable via the Hokuriku shinkansen. Looking at Google Maps, I noticed I could end at Aguri no Yu and, after a relaxing hot bath, take a taxi back to the station. From there, I’d ride the Koumi line in the opposite direction, to Sakudaira, so that I could board the shinkansen before Karuizawa, after which the train is usually packed. Although I wouldn’t be summiting any peaks, I’d able to visit Komoro Castle Ruins and Shakuson-ji Temple along the way, and if the weather allows, enjoy the panoramic views of Mt Asama and Mt Yatsugatake.

Chikuma River from Komoro Castle

Chikuma River from the Keizo Koyama Art Museum

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the shinkansen from Tokyo, although Mt Asama was firmly in the clouds as the train pulled into Karuizawa station around 9am. I transferred to the Shinano Tetsudo line for the 20-minute ride to Komoro; I happened to catch the rapid service with reserved seating so I remained comfortably seated for the entire trip. After getting ready, I set off for the nearby Komoro-jo Castle shortly after 10am. After paying a small “strolling fee” (called sansakuken) for Kaikoen Park which surrounds the ruins, I walked past ancient stone walls to the Fujimi Observation Deck from where one can see Mt Fuji, although today the sky was too hazy for that. I had better luck with the Mizunote Observation Deck, from where I could gaze down at a bend of the Chikuma River, the longest river in Japan. After exiting the castle grounds, I made my way to the nearby Keizo Koyama Art Museum.

Downstream View of Chikuma River near Shakuson-ji

Upstream View of Chikuma River near Shakuson-ji

I had a breathtaking view of another bend of the Chikuma river, an impressive plateau rising on the opposite side; I felt excited that today’s hike would take me along its top part. I joined the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail (浅間･八ヶ岳パノラマトレイル) just below the Art Museum garden. I followed a switchback trail through the forest, reaching a road at the valley bottom around 11am. After crossing Okubo Bridge, I followed back roads through a charming residential area, the way well-signposted throughout. After a short climb, I had a view of the base of Mt Asama, the top part still hidden in thick clouds. The path then descended and merged with a cliffside road running right next ro the river. Shortly after the noon chime, I arrived at the start of the trail heading up the plateau. After a 15-minute climb through the forest, cliffs towering on both sides, I reached Shakuson-ji Temple (釈尊寺) from where I had a view of Nunobiki Kannon (布引観音).

Approach to Nunobiki Kannon

Nunobuki Kannon from Shakuson-ji Temple

I was amazed by the view of small structure clinging to the cliffside, reminding me of Daifuku Temple. Soon after, I was standing on the wooden platform, gazing past the cliffs at the still cloudy Asama, trying not to look at the drop below. I continued my way up a winding road through the forest, at one point passing a snake taking a break in a sunny spot on its warm surface. A little after 1pm, I turned left onto a forest road near a frog-filled pond; I never saw any, just heard feeble croaks followed by tiny splashes as I approached. I was now walking along the top of the plateau, the surrounding forest hiding the views. At 1h30, I reached a road junction near a lake, and here I followed a lane to the highest point of today’s hike, a grassy spot above the fields. To the south and east, I could make out the hazy outlines of Mt Yatsugatake and the Chichibu mountains.

Golden Rice Fields at Mimakigahara Plateau

Mt Asama from Mimakigahara Plateau

I was surprised how warm it felt in the middle of October, not even a breeze to cool off. At 2pm, I set off again, now following a country lane as it curved around and over hills. Thirty minutes later I reached a wide open space used for rice cultivation: the Mimakigahara Plateau (mimakigaharadaichi 御牧ヶ原台地). Many fields had already been harvested, the rice stalks hanging on drying racks; however a few remained untouched, the golden stalks basking under the afternoon sun. Turning around, I was rewarded with a majestic view of the highest summits of Mt Asama, finally free of clouds. I then turned left onto a dirt path and up another hill through open countryside.

Mt Asama and Pond View

View of Mt Asama from the Panorama Trail

This was the best part of the hike so far, the entire range of the Asama volcano slowly coming into view. The entire plateau is dotted with small lakes, and I eventually arrived at one of the biggest ones, Himamu-ike Pond (干間無池), the dark blue summit of Mt Asama visible above the light blue lake. The trail continues down the cliffs and along the Chikuma River back to Komoro station, but here I headed back to an intersection near my lunch spot. From there, it was half an hour of slight up and down walking to Aguri no Yu Hot Spring, famed for the view of Mt Asama from its outdoor bath. After a refreshing soak, I was back at Komoro station at 5pm, and soon after, I was comfortably seated on the Shinkansen for the one hour trip back to Tokyo.

Mt Asama and Himamu Pond

Walking back from Himamu Pond

The Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail is actually a network of trails on the south bank of the Chikuma river. Today’s hike took about five hours and passed several of the area highlights, the excellent signposting and online information ensuring I could always find my way. I hope to return next year to complete the other sections and see the rest of the highlights. I’d also like to get an earlier start so that I can get clearer views of the Yatsugatake range on the south side, but I’d need to plan it for a cooler day as there is little shade along the way. In any case, I know I can finish my hike with a well-deserved hot spring bath.

Watch a Video of the Asama-Yatsugatake Panorama Trail Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Takao (599m), Hachioji City, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, October 6, 2024 [Iroha & Katsura Forest Trails]

I wanted to do another afternoon hike on Mt Takao and explore more of its many trails. As the weather was supposed to be cloudy all day, it seemed like a good chance to do a hike close to home. The well-beaten tracks also meant that the path would be clear of spiders and spider webs. Finally, the cable car would be running past 6pm because of the summer beer garden, although I’d most likely be done before since it would be getting dark around 5pm.

Hiking in the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park

明治の森高尾国定公園

I’d take a local JR train from Shinjuku to Takao station; there, I’d board the bus for Kobotoke, at the back of the mountain, and then go up the Iroha Forest trail, leading all the way to the summit. I’d go down the Katsura Forest Trail, ending at the cable car top station. Before heading back, I could enjoy a hot spring bath at the Keio Takao-san Onsen, right next to the Takaosanguchi station. Although I knew I wouldn’t get any views, I hoped I could enjoy Tokyo’s most famous mountain minus the crowds.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Hikage Stream (left) Iroha Forest Trail (right)

Gaining Altitude (left) Reaching the Mist (right)

A few raindrops fell as I got off the train at Takao station just past 2pm, but fortunately nothing was falling as I got off at Hikage (日影), ten minutes away on a mostly empty bus. I continued up the main road for a few minutes before turning left and passing over a bridge; I then followed a narrow road alongside Hikage-sawa stream (日影沢). The pleasing rushing sound of the water made up for the gloomy skies overhead. At the Hikagezawa Camping Ground, I turned left onto the Iroha Forest Trail (いろはの森コース). Soon the path started to climb through thick forest, the sound of water slowly fading.

Halfway to the Top (left) Just before the Suspension Bridge Trail (right)

Walking up Wooden Steps (left) and Through the Mist (right)

I was surprised by how humid it still was, as I didn’t expect to break a sweat in such a short time. At 3pm, I reached a flatter section on a shoulder of the mountain, the surrounding forest shrouded in mist. Soon I was climbing again, the trail wet and slippery because of yesterday’s rain. I arrived at the intersection with the Suspension Bridge Trail (trail #4), explored four months ago. I continued along the Iroha Forest Trail, making my way up a series of wooden staircases, eventually merging with the Omotesando Trail (trail #1). I now had to share the path with dozens of other people, as well as huge Jorogumo spiders, hanging from immense webs on both sides of the trail. At 3h30, one hour after setting off, I reached the top of Mt Takao (高尾山たかおさん takao-san), the view consisting entirely of white space.

Exploring Ura-Takao (left) The Path for Momijidai (right)

The Summit Loop Trail (left) The Katsura Forest Trail (right)

I was surprised to see many people on the summit despite the poor weather. I found an empty spot at a bench for a late lunch. At 4pm, I decided to make a short roundtrip to Momijidai, on the backside of Mt Takao (裏高尾 ura-takao), as I was ahead of schedule. It took half an hour during which I only saw a small snake slither off the trail, and of course more spiders. It was starting to get gloomy so I upped the pace, following the Summit Trail (#5) back to the main side of the mountain, and quickly headed down the Katsura Forest Trail (#3, meaning Japanese Judas Tree). It was a solitary walk through the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park, the misty silence broken by the cries of birds.

Rest spot near the intersection of the Iroha Forest and Suspension Bridge Trails

Reaching the End of the Katsura Forest Trail

This part took longer than expected as it hugged the mountain side, winding in and out of tiny valleys. Luckily, it was mostly flat and easy to walk, although I had to be careful of the steep drop on the right side and the slippery surface of a couple of wooden bridges. Just as I thought I’d have to take out my headlight, I reached the Kasumidai Trail (#2) at 5pm, and a few minutes later, I emerged into an open space near the cable car, city lights barely visible though the mist. I was tempted to head down the Biwa waterfall trail to avoid the crowds but I knew it would be a tricky descent at this time of the day. Soon after, I was enjoying a nice hot soak at Takaosan Onsen, before hopping on the train for the one hour ride back to Tokyo.