Hiking in the Chubu-Sangaku National Park
中部山岳国立公園
Hiking Japan’s hundred famous mountains
This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer
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Kengamine, the highest point of Norikura-dake
See Zengoro Waterfall in the foothills of Mt Norikura
Hiking the hundred famous mountains of Japan 日本百名山
Hiking in Shikoku 四国
剣山(つるぎさん tsurugisan)
石鎚山 (いしづちさん いしづちさん ishizuchisan)
Hiking on Mt Tsurugi
The summit of Mt Ishizuchi
These maps were developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer
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See the views of the Mt Tsurugi hike
See the views of the Mt Ishizuchi hike
Next up is a list of low-altitude snow-free winter hikes in the areas to the West of Tokyo, mostly in the foothills of the Okutama and Chichibu mountains. Saitama especially has a multitude of short hikes that are suitable for the short cold winter days and this list is by no means complete.
No need to introduce Mt Takao 599m – if you haven’t climbed it, head there first. You can go up one of the several direct routes, or one of the longer hikes circling North or South around the top of Mt Takao. The adventurous can continue West from the summit to Mt Kagenobu and even Mt Jimba (be prepared for some snow in that case).
PROS: Lots of trails to choose from, station to station hiking, lots of temples to check out
CONS: Crowds (especially school children), path erosion, somewhat cliche
These unassuming hills on the Eastern fringes of the Okutama moutain range follow the Ome line between Ome 青梅 and Ikusabata 軍畑 stations, climbing gradually to the highest point, Mt Raiden 雷電 at 494 meters. Since most of the trail is in the forest it can be a bit boring but it does make for a great workout and it is good for trail running if that is your thing (just make sure to give priority to the hikers!). There is a trail to the South of Ome station that would enable one to do a loop but I haven’t tried it yet.
PROS: Station to station hiking, well-worn and relatively easy trail to follow, Karakai castle ruins on the way (just the foundations though)
CONS: Lots of ups and downs, few views (although it’s possible to see the tip of Mt Fuji at one point), sometimes used by trail runners
Mt Hiwada 305m can be reached on foot from Koma station 高麗 on the Seibu Ikebukuro line (a couple of stops afte Hanno) and belongs to the Okumusashi area 奥武蔵 which is a kind of prelude to the Chichibu area 秩父. There are several paths going up and down and a small shrine on the top. It’s possible to follow the trail beyond the summit which leads to other minor peaks and a lake. My recommendation is to head to Mt Monomi 物見山 and then back the same way
PROS: Station to station hiking, good views of the Kanto plain and Mt Fuji from the top, length can be adjusted
CONS: Some road walking from the station, hike is on the short side unless one extends to Mt Monomi, Hiwada part can be a little crowded
Yugate 290m, less than an hour from higashi agano station 東吾野, consists of 2-3 houses and some fields in the Okumusashi hills. There are a couple of benches and it makes a nice spot to stop for a break. Continuing further along a relatively wide and flat path, one eventually reaches Mt Ogami, 566m high. The return is done by heading down the opposite side to the Kuroyama bus stop 黒山 (to Ogose station 越生).
PROS: Easy path to hike, good picnic spot at Yugate, waterfall near Kuroyama
CONS: Some road walking, few views
This is a hike that I have discovered recently in the low hills that cross the wide valley containing Chichibu city, close to Ogano village 小鹿野. The highest point is 590 meters but lying quite a bit inland, a little snow is always a possibility (it was totally snow-free when I did it it January). There are some steep rocky bits (with chains to assist you) so it isn’t recommended for beginners. The views of the surrounding Chichibu mountains are fantastic and there is an interesting rock formation on the way called kamegadake 亀ヶ岳.
PROS: few people, some “exciting bits”, lots of panoramic views
CONS: bus required both ways, somewhat far from Tokyo, caution required along various steep drops along the way
Another “Alps”, this time West of Nagatoro station 長瀞 on the Chichibu line, the highest point being Mt Hodo 357m. There is a ropeway, a small zoo and flower gardens (including cherry blossoms). The start point is actually the next stop, Nogami station 野上 but one can also start the hike further North as the there is a path that follows the ridge as it curves to the east following the railway line all the way to Mt Kanetsukido 鐘撞堂山 (incidentally a Kanto hundred famous mountain).
PROS: Station to station hiking, good views of Chichibu, hike can be lengthened or shortened
CONS: Crowds since the top is accessible via cable car, somewhat far from Tokyo, lots of the steps near the top of Mt Hodo
Winter is in full-swing and for those who are averse to hiking in freezing temperatures or snowy conditions, it’s good to know a few low-altitude spots for hiking. So without further ado, here is a list of hikes that I have done during the winter months (December to March) starting with areas South of Tokyo:
With the highest point being 392m and located right next to Suruga bay, it’s safe to say that snow on the Numazu Alps is a rare affair. However the name “Alps” is well-deserved as there are lots of ups and down, some of which are surprisingly steep (nothing technical though).
PROS: Shinkansen Access, Mt Fuji and sea views, hike can be shortened or lengthened
CONS: Transport cost, Crowds (especially closer to Numazu city), lots of ups and downs.
Mt Higane starts at sea-level from Yugawara station and heads inland all the way up to 771m. The latter portions of the trail can have snow but this shouldn’t really be a concern since there are few steep sections. However caution is required when negotiating the icy steps when heading back down to Izuyugawara Onsen 伊豆湯河原温泉, a short bus ride from the station. There is a short cable car near the top of Mt Higane at Jukokkutoge 十国峠 at the bottom of which it is possible to catch a bus.
PROS: Nice Onsen at the end, great views of Mt Fuji, photogenic stone buddhas
CONS: Start of the trail is not well signposted, some portions are on the road, some snow on the higher portions
This hike is described in this blog post
These 3 small mountains are located a little North of Mt Higane (described above) in the vicinity of Yugawara station 湯河原. The first 2 are best reached via a short bus ride but Mt Shiro is walkable from the station. They can be done separately or in combination. The highest point is Mt Nango at 610m but since they sit right on Sagami bay, snow is rare.
PROS: Multitude of paths, plum blossoms in February and March, good lunch / break spots at the top of Mt Maku (usually lots of people) and Mt Shiro (less people)
CONS: Crowded bus to the start of the trail during plum blossom season, trail up Mt Nango a little difficult to find, some road-walking when doing Mt Shiroyama
Mt Oogusu’s is known as the highest point of the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島 (due South of Yokohama) at 241m. It also happens to be a Kanto hundred famous mountain. So that’s already two good reasons to climb it!
PROS: Observation tower on the top, the lower part is along a river, can be done as a loop hike or a traverse from Kinugasa Station 衣笠 on the Yokosuka line
CONS: Not a full day hike (but possible to combine with other peaks on the peninsula), some road walking necessary, closeness to civilisation
Topping out at 159m, Mt Oohirayama is the highest point of this trail just East of Kamakura City, and is virtually guaranteed to be snow free throughout winter. The trail is well trodden and most parts are fairly easy making it suitable for beginners. The hike starts and finishes at different temples in the area, accessible from Kita-Kamakura and Kamakura stations.
PROS: Station to station hiking, possible to combine with sightseeing (temples and Daibutsu), views of Mt Fuji and the sea
CONS: Can get crowded, not a full-day hike, surrounded by residential areas
Located right between Mt Oyama and the Shonan coast, these low hills make up the southern extremities of the Tanzawa mountain range. The highest point is Mt Zukkou at 303m and the entire trail is should be snow free throughout most of the winter. The hike starts from Shibuzawa station and ends at Tsurumaki onsen station, both on the Odakyu line. The hike can be split in two at Hadano station.
PROS: Station to station hiking, panoramic views of the Tanzawa mountain range on Zukkou part of the hike, observation tower on the top of Mt Koubou
CONS: Some road walking at the start, poor signposting on the Zukkou side, crowds around Mt Koubou
Located near the heart of the Boso peninsula, this intermediate-level loop hike perfect for the cooler days of Winter and early Spring. Along the way, one can get views of the Pacific Ocean, Tokyo Bay, the Miura Peninsula, Mt Atago, Mt Kano, Mt Iyo and Mt Tomi; the area is also known for its many flowers, especially daffodils (“suisen“) in January and cherry blossoms in April, as well as its terraced rice paddies (“senmaida“).
Terraced Fields on the East Side
If going by public transport, buses run infrequently between Sakuma Dam and Hotta station on the JR Uchibo so it’s important to confirm the timetable beforehand; depending on the season, one can take advantage of the Sazanami limited express from Shinjuku. If time allows, one can drop by at Waraku no yu for a hot bath before heading back.
Mt Tsumori from the Start of the Hike
The climb from the base to the top of Mt Tsumori (津森山 つもりやま tsumori-yama) was pleasant and the views eastwards towards Kamogawa town, the Pacific Ocean and Mt Atago were unexpectedly beautiful; closer by, rice terraces covered the mountain side.
Mt Atago from Mt Tsumori
After a short break at the summit, I made my way along a mix of hiking paths and roads to the frighteningly named Mt Hitobone (人骨山 ひとぼねやま hitobone-yama meaning “person’s bone”). Here the views were mostly of the hills towards the South and the West, with the outline of Mt Fuji visible against the late afternoon sun.
View of the Boso Mountains
After another break, I headed down and followed an adventurous trail through a marshland at the bottom of the valley – it was quite atmospheric in the late afternoon light. Eventually I emerged onto a road and arrived at lake Sakuma just as the sun was setting.
Watch a Video of the Hike
Situated on the Eastern side of the Kofu basin in Japan’s wine country, Mt Koshu-Takao is a technically easy but fairly long day hike, especially if one continues to Mt Tanayokote and Mt Otaki further up the ridge. The highlight is the panoramic view of Mt Fuji and the Southern Alps from various spots along the mostly bare ridgeline. Make sure to drop by the hot spring on top of “Budo no Oka”, and also indulge in some wine tasting before heading back.
Mt Fuji can be seen from many Spots along the Hike
This was an amazing station to station hike I had been saving for a day I couldn’t be bothered to look up bus times. I just regret I hadn’t hiked up Mt Koshu Takao (甲州高尾山 こうしゅうたかおさん koushuutakao-san) sooner: from the pictures in my guidebook, it looked like a dull up and down slog, but after gaining enough elevation, the views of the Mt Fuji and the South Alps were out of this world. Not only did I have clear weather but I also got to see a “sea of mist” covering the lower elevations.
The South Alps, with the three Shirane Mountains in the Middle
The surrounding scenery was a nice mix of subalpine and alpine, lots of pines and open grassy spaces, despite the fact that I was always below the 1500m mark. The hike follows an undulating ridgeline which goes all the way to Daibosatsurei, although part of the trail is rough and unmarked (GPS recommended). I made it all the way to Mt Tanayoko (棚横山 たなよこてやま tanayokoteyama), a 100 famous mountain of Yamanashi, and Mt Otaki (大滝山 おおたきやま ootaki-yama); this last summit was completely in the trees.
The summit of Mt Takayokote
Just a couple of hours by train from Shinjuku on the Chuo line, Katsunuma-budokyo station feels like a completely different world. From there, it took me less than an hour to walk to the trail entrance at Daizenji (大善寺). For the return, I went down a forested valley on the west side, past the picturesque shinto shrine Otakiyama Fudoson Okumiya (大滝山不動尊奥宮), as well as a waterfall, frozen in this season.
Sideways View or Mt Takaokoshu from Budo no Oka
Beyond that, the path becomes a road which you need to hike for 90 minutes back to the station. I was fortunate enough to be picked up by somebody on the way down (there is a parking area near the shrine); they even dropped me off at Tenku no yu hot spring close by the station. By the way, this onsen is on the top of a small hill and has some great views of the wide plain that forms the central part of Yamanashi prefecture.
Watch a Video of the Hike
Last Saturday, I finally made it back to Mt Sekirou 石老山 (702m) for the 3rd time. I wrote about this mountain in an earlier blog post and at the time I had to cut short the loop hike because of a sudden snowstorm. I had promised to update the post once I managed to complete it but so much time has passed since then – four years – that I think it warrants a new post. Another reason I’d like to write about it again is that as the title suggests, it has many things in common with nearby Mt Takao. However unlike Takao, there aren’t as many people.
First it all it has relatively easy access. Although it requires a bus ride from Sagamiko 相模湖 which is the next station from Takao station, buses depart on average twice an hour all day long. I didn’t even check the bus timetable in advance this time and the bus left within ten minutes of arriving at the station. The best thing is not to fret about the bus and just focus on getting to Sagamiko station at a reasonable time for hiking. Additionally, the bus ride to the entrance of the trail – the bus stop is conveniently called 石老山入口 entrance to Mt Sekirou – takes only about ten minutes so standing is not an issue.
The trail is fairly well marked – there is also a big board with a map at the start – so you don’t really need to bring your own map although I always recommend getting one At one point (just after the temple) the trail splits in two but this isn’t an issue since both trails join up again 30 minutes later. I recommend the right branch since the views are better (sakura michi さくら道 on the signs). If you decide to descend via the same route, rather than the loop trail as described below, you could take the other branch on the way down.
There are several wooden seating platforms where you can eat lunch on the summit and a good view of Mt Fuji as well as Mt Omuro in the Tanzawa range. We had a late start on Saturday so we only got there at 1h30 and we had the summit to ourselves. The path for descending is to the right. This is the one I opted not to take last time because of the weather. After a hundred meters or so there is a split and in order to complete the loop hike, you need to go right again.
The path is very pleasant, generally wide and not too steep. There are however a couple of steep rocky parts which should be descended cautiously. After an hour or so, and a few up and downs, there is an observation platform. It has a nice view of the long ridge that includes Mt Takao and Mt Jimba. After that it’s about 30 minutes of downhill to get back to the road. The path follows a valley with a small stream that can be pretty dark and gloomy towards the end of the day. At times the trail is fairly rocky and difficult to walk, not unlike the part leading to the temple when going up.
After reaching the road it takes another 20 minutes or so to get back to the bus stop. Overall, including a one-hour lunch break and walking at an average pace, the entire hike shouldn’t take more than 5 hours. During that time we saw less than two dozen hikers. Before heading back, I would recommend taking advantage of the very nice Ururi hot spring that is just across the road inside the Pleasure Forest amusement park.
The only two areas where Mt Takao wins against Mt Sekirou is 1) the number of attractions – Takao has several temples, a beer garden, a funicular, a chairlift and a monkey park 2) the numbers of trails up and down the mountain.
As of October 2020, the trail around Kenkyoji Temple (顕鏡寺) is still closed due to trail damage due to last year’s Typhoon 19 / Hagibis – it’s not possible to reach the summit of Mt Sekiro via this route. No reopening date has been set yet. Please check the Sagamiko Tourist Association website for future updates.
With early freak snowstorm, mountains in the Kanto area received up to 20 cm of fresh snow. I did a short reconnaissance up Mt Hiwada 日和田山 (305m) near Hanno station on Friday. Unfortunately snow and November temperatures don’t really mix, and everything was melting as if Mother Nature was trying to cover up some big mistake in a hurry.
Big lumps of snow were falling from the branches making walking under the trees quite perilous. In other places snowmelt was coming down in streams of water just as if it were raining, except that it was a beautiful sunny day. Overall the muddy and wet conditions were starting to make me despair that I would be able to find a good place to go hiking on Saturday. Too low, I would encounter similar slushy conditions. Too high and there was a risk of losing the trail or worse, running into trouble on a steep section.
I finally hit upon an interesting idea which I was able to confirm after a quick search on internet. Buses for Daibosatsurei (2047m) 大菩薩嶺, one of the hundred famous mountains, usually run till about mid-December, after which the service is stopped till the spring because of snow. Daibosatsurei is a relatively easy mountain to hike, a place I was familiar with, and that would also make a good snow hike, except that in the in the winter months you would have to hike up (and down) from a much lower point, the entrance of the Daibosatsu mountain trail at 900m. However, despite the unusual snowfall the buses were still running on Saturday November 25th and thus it was possible to get all the way up to Kamihikawatouge 上日川峠, nearly 600m higher, and a very good convenient starting point for a stroll in the snow.
After getting off at Kaiyamato 甲斐大和 station, I rushed to get in line at the bus stop. Daibosatsurei is a highly popular place to hike, not only because it’s a hyakumeizan but it’s also relatively close to Tokyo and easy to hike. However this time, we were only a handful of people waiting for the bus. Perhaps most people were dissuaded by the snowy conditions or maybe less people go there after the Koyo (autumn leaves) season.
Whatever the reason, I almost thought they were right when the bus failed to turn up on time. We were informed by the bus driver of another bus that ours was running late because of the icy roads. Our ride finally rolled in 30 minutes late making a loud rattling noise because of the snow chains. For once this was a good thing, since the hike I had planned, a simple loop of the top part of the mountain was a tad too short. With half an hour shaved off, the timing was perfect.
There are few mountain roads in the Tokyo area that are open through winter and thus it was quite a unique experience riding up the mountain with snow banks on either side and, ice and snow underneath on the higher parts of the road.
I was finally able to start hiking just after 11am. At 1600m the snow was already getting heavy and wet, and any hiking below that point was bound to be unpleasant. I took the ridge trail leading straight up to the summit. Under the trees, it was enjoyable to hike on the snow, made compact and firm by the footsteps of previous hikers, and on the rocky sections higher up, the snow had completely disappeared from anything in direct sunlight. There was no ice, and crampons weren’t necessary on the ascent although I had light ones in my pack, and several people were using them, mainly for going down. The views of Mt Fuji and the entire range of the South Alps were stunning. I had been to Daibosatsurei before but the views hadn’t been anywhere as great.
The top ridge at around 2000m was freezing and the snow was 20cm deep and practically powdery. From the highest point, you can walk down along the ridge enjoying the beautiful winter scenery. At the emergency hut on the Daibosatsu Pass I turned right and walked down along the gently sloping wide path that meanders through the forest at the base of the top ridge back to the bus stop. Being somewhat sure-footed and having heavy solid hiking boots, I never had to resort to my crampons.
All in all a satisfying if somewhat short hike (under 4 hours) in a snowy setting and a good choice after a late autumn / early winter snowstorm. Most likely the bulk of the snow under 2000m will have melted by next weekend making this a one-off.
Hiking the hundred famous mountains of Japan 日本百名山
Get the Japanwilds Mt Daisen Hiking Map on Avenza
This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer
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Hiking near the top of Mt Daisen (大山 だいせん)
Hiking in the Daisen-Oki National Park 大山隠岐国立公園
Hiking in the Chugoku Mountains 中国山地
Kengamine (剣ヶ峰), the true high point, off limits to hikers
See the views of the Mt Daisen hike
This is a short blog post to draw attention to the River museum 川博物館 that is located near Yorii station 寄居 (1h40 min from Ikebukuro by train) on the Arakawa river. It’s a must-visit for Japanese mountain fanatics! There are 2 main reasons to visit.
First it has a pretty good 4D movie of the Arakawa river, from its source in the heart of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai national park to the sea. You have to put on a pair of 3D glasses and buckle up in your seat because there is some shaking involved.
Second there is a mind-blowing replica of the Arakawa river with the surrounding mountains (Mt Kobushi, Mt Sanpo, Mt Buko…) just outside the main museum building. Anyone who likes to understand the layout of an area like like myself, this is a truly an amazing piece of work.
The website is: http://www.river-museum.jp/
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Hiking Around Tokyo 