Author: David

Sengenrei (903m), Hinohara Town, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, September 30, 2024

I was looking for an easy hike close to Tokyo for a misty early autumn day. I had done this long ridgeline twice before, each time on sunny days in the late autumn, so I was familiar with this views; this time, it seemed I’d get to experience a different aspect of the mountain. To reach the start of the hike, I’d take JR local lines to Musashi-Itsukaichi station and from there catch the 9am Nishi-Tokyo bus, for the one-hour ride to the trail entrance.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

For the most part I’d follow a level trail along the Kanto Fureai no Michi, ending at Hossowa Falls, about a thirty minute bus ride back to the station. Some rain was supposed to fall throughout the day but I hoped it would just be light drizzle instead of a heavy downpour. On the bright side, this meant I could expect less people on this trail and so I was looking forward to a relaxing ramble through a familiar area.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Lots of clouds at the start of the hike

Same view but in good weather (2014 photo)

Light rain started to fall as soon as I got off the bus at the Sengen Ridge Trailhead (浅間尾根登山口); fortunately the bus shelter kept me dry while I got ready. At 10am, I started up a switchback trail leading to the top of the Sengen Ridge. Soon after setting off, the rain stopped, although I could still get wet from the tall grass lining the path. Darks clouds hang overhead but as expected I had the trail mostly to myself.

View South of the Mito-Jimba Ridgeline

Looking down at Hinohara Town

At 1130, I reached a viewpoint on top of an area cleared of trees; through the slowly lifting mist, I could see the ridgeline connecting Mt Mito and Mt Jinba. This deforestation was relatively new as I had no recollection of seeing it 4 years before; I passed several more such areas on the way. Soon after, I spotted the first mushrooms of the year, shaped as parasols; the ground was strewn with chestnut burrs (“igaguri“), both signs of the approaching autumn season.

View North of Mt Gozen

Misty Panorama from Sengenrei

At noon, light rain started to fall again, so I bypassed the true summit, taking a detour on the north side, soon arriving at the Sengen Ridge Rest Area, its most important feature being an open shelter. It was the perfect time to take a lunch break. After 30 minutes the rain stopped and I made my way to the observation deck on the lesser summit of Sengenrei (浅間嶺 せんげんれい), a Kanto 100 famous mountain, where I enjoyed a misty panorama. At 1pm, I continued on my way, now on the Kanto Fureai no Michi. After a slippery descent, I turned right at a crossing, and followed a path hugging the north side of the ridge.

Sunny View from the top of Sengenrei (2014 photo)

View North of Mt Odake (2014 photo)

I had several wide views of the misty foothills on the other side of the valley from the top of some more clearings, although the highest points were hidden in the clouds. A little before 2pm, I headed down a rocky river valley, spotting a toad along the way, trying its best to blend in next to a mossy rock. It was only past Tokisaka pass (時坂峠), that I started seeing the first “Jorogumo” spiders of the day, forcing me to wave my stick in front of me to clear the way of hard to spot webs.

View North of Mt Gozen (2014 photo)

Hossowa Falls at the end of the hike

I had almost reached the end of the hike when it started to rain again, this time harder than before. I picked up the pace, arriving at the parking lot at 3pm. I sped up and down the well-maintained path for the falls, my 3rd visit overall, Hossowa waterfall (払沢の滝) looking quite impressive this time, thanks to the more than average rainfall this year. I made sure to buy a box of tofu donuts from nearby Chitoseya before heading to the shelter to wait for the bus back to Musashi-Itsukaichi station, which I reached at 5pm and from where it was a one hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Sengenrei Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a slideshow of more photos of the hike

Mt Mitsumochi (1248m), Yaita City, Tochigi Prefecture, Saturday, August 3, 2024

I wanted to do at least one summer hike this year, as it had been 5 years since my previous one. I decided to visit Mt Takahara, a 200-famous mountain climbed during Golden Week 2018. This time, I would not head to the highest point, but instead hike on the high plateau that likely inspired the name of this ancient stratovolcano. Looking through my newly purchased “150 Best Tochigi Mountains” guidebook, I found a short and easy loop hike passing by a minor summit at the edge of the plateau, ideal for a hot August day.

Hiking on Mt Takahara and in the Nikko National Park

高原山　・　日光国立公園

I would get to the trail entrance by car from Utsunomiya since no buses run all the way to the plateau. As the hike was relatively short, I could stop at a restaurant on the way for an early soba lunch. The weather was supposed to be mostly sunny, and less hot and humid than the previous weeks, although thunderstorms still threatened. The path was through a beech and oak forest, with a view of the Kanto Plain at the halfway point; after a one month break, I was looking forward to a relaxing stroll in nature and getting a nice view .

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Steps at the Start of the Hike (left) Level Path for Most of the Way (right)

Looking Back at a Leaning Oak (left) Mistumochi Observation Tower (right)

At 10am, it already felt very hot under the sun as I walked through the streets of Utsunomiya towards my share car. After a one-hour drive, I arrived at Dattan Soba Juan (ダッタン蕎麦 寿庵) as it opened at 1130, and was lucky to snag the very last table. After a delicious meal of handmade soba and the biggest kakiage ever, I set off again, driving up a winding road through thick forest, arriving at the Omamadai Parking (大間々台) on Happogahara (八方ヶ原) at 1h30. I was surprised to see few cars, probably because the mountain is more popular in the spring and autumn months.

View of Forest and Clouds from the Omamadai Observation Tower

Mostly Gentle Slopes on this Hike

I was amazed by all the dragon flies buzzing around, using my car antenna as a handy perch. At 1280m, it felt cooler than the low-lying plain, although at nearly 25°C it was still above my comfort zone for physical activity. I checked out the view from the parking Observation tower, but Mt Shaka, the highest point of Mt Takahara, was hidden by a thick layer of clouds. I located the start of the Yashio Route (やしおコース), branching left from the main trail up the mountain; for a short while it headed down before becoming level. It felt refreshing to be walking under the tree shade inside the Nikko National Park; I met few people although insects were out in great numbers.

View of the Kanto Plain from the Mt Mitsumochi Observation Deck

Cumulus Cloud Floating through the Summer Sky

I was interested in the many bilingual information boards along the trail, allowing me to learn more about the surrounding nature, although they didn’t prepare me for the discovery of a brown toad sitting in the bamboo grass (I spotted one more at the summit). After a short climb, I reached a new-looking wooden observation tower a little before 2pm, also the top of Mt Mitsumochi (ミツモチ山 mitsumochi-yama). From the top of the tower, I gazed upon the Kanto plain below, the view probably more impressive in the cooler days of Spring and Autumn. After a short break, I continued along the Aozora trail (青空コース meaning “blue skies”), a wider track circling clockwise back to my starting point.

Open section along the Aozora Route

Passing Between Three Beeches

I soon figured out that the trail name referred to the sky now visible through the trees overhead, rather than to any panoramic views. Fortunately, thick clouds had spread over the entire sky shielding me from the blazing sun; on the other hand I was now worried about thunderstorms. I picked up the pace, and after passing through an open grassy space, the trail climbed gently, merging with the main trail at 3pm, near an old wooden shinto gate. At one point, a startled deer jumped out of the trees, dashed across the trail and dived into the forest on the other side. Soon after, I was back at the parking lot, and after checking out the Yama-no-eki Takahara, drove back to Utsumomiya station where I boarded the shinkansen for the short ride back to Tokyo.

Mt Hinode (902m) & Mt Aso (794m), Tokyo Prefecture, Ome City & Hinode Town, Saturday, June 29, 2024

I was looking for another afternoon hike to make the most of the longer days of June. I also wanted to include a river section as it had rained a lot recently. I decided to head to Mt Mitake and follow the Kanto Fureai no Michi to Mt Hinode last visited ten years ago. From there I would follow a ridgeline to a minor peak I had to yet to climb; according to online reports, it had a wide view on the east side. I’d then follow the Shiraiwa-Taki hiking trail westwards to Shiraiwa waterfall, a short distance from the end of the trail. If time allowed, I could drop by nearby Tsuru Tsuru Onsen for a wash and a soak before heading back.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Hiking in Okutama 奥多摩

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

To get to Mt Mitake, I’d ride the Chuo line from Shinjuku, change to the Ome lime in Tachikawa, change again to the Okutama line in Ome, and get off at Mitake station, a short bus ride from the Mitake cable car. For the return, I’d ride the bus from the hot spring to Musashi-Itsukaichi station, then take the Itsukaichi line to Tachikawa and finally transfer to the Chuo line for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be cloudy with temperatures in the mid-twenties. I hoped the higher humidity would still allow for comfortable hiking. I was looking forward to exploring new trails, getting some good views and seeing lots of rushing water.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Fureai no Michi past Mitake Village (left) on the way to Mt Hinode (right)

Mt Hinode Trail Before the Summit (left) and Past the Summit (right)

It was a cloudy day as I rode the train from the tall, shiny skyscrapers of Shinjuku to the low, green hills of Ome. As I had left around noon, I was rewarded with sitting space on the trains, as well as on the cable car shuttle bus and the cable car itself, my first time to be comfortably seated after half a dozen trips to the area. It was also my first time to visit in June, the green of spring in full swing, white and purple Hydrangea (ajisai) lining the road.

Trail between Mt Hinode and Mt Aso (left) Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail (right)

Falls (left) and Wooden Walkway (right) along the Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail

It felt pleasantly cool felt as I exited the cable car top station just before 2pm. I was relieved that few people had chosen to visit in the rainy season. After getting ready and checking the view of today’s two peaks from Mitakedaira, I made my way up some steps to an observation deck from where I had a slightly better view of the area. I decided to make a quick detour via Ubuyasu Shrine (産安社), a peaceful spot with some impressive cedars, reminding me that I was inside the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. I then headed down a different path taking care not to slip, the ground still wet from yesterday’s rain, arriving at the Mitake Visitor Center at 2h30, also the junction with the Kanto Fureai no Michi.

View of Mt Aso (left) and Mt Hinode (right) from Mitakedaira

View of Mt Aso (left) and Mt Hinode (right) from the Observation Deck

I suddenly felt quite warm as the sun had came out from behind the clouds. After crossing Mitake Village, I found myself on a level path through cedars, arriving at a junction past a Shinto gate at 3pm. I took the left path heading up the mountain side, and less than half an hour later, arrived at the top of Mt Hinode (日の出山 ひのでやま hinodeyama), a Tokyo 100 famous mountain, the name translating as “sunrise mountain”. Looking north, I could see the Okutama Mountains, and to the south, the Tanzawa mountains; straight ahead was the Kanto Plain and Tokyo.

Steps leading to the Observation Deck and Ubuyasu Shrine

View of Tokyo and Kanto Plain from the top of Mt Hinode

I was slightly worried about rain as thick clouds had appeared on the west side, hiding the summit of Mt Mitake. After a break, I set off down a steep trail on the south side, the descent made easier by log steps. Just before 4pm, I reached a T-junction: to the left was the shortest path for Tsurutsuru onsen, favoured by the few remaining hikers; however, I turned right, now following a narrow path, with views of the triangular summit of today’s next mountain on the left side through gaps in the vegetation; I soon left the Fureai no Michi as it descended into the valley on the right. At 4h30 I was standing on the top of Mt Aso (麻生山 あそうさん aso-san), feeling quite sweaty despite the short climb.

View of the Triangular Summit of Mt Aso

Second Viewpoint of Mt Aso

I was stunned by breathtaking view of the Kanto plain, the east side completely free of trees and mountains. I was a little behind schedule so instead of taking a breather on one of the several benches, I headed west, now following the Shiraiwa-Taki Hiking Trail (白岩滝ハイキングコース). As I walked down a dark valley, I could hear the bark of deer but never saw any. Very soon, I was walking beside a small charming stream, my hopes for the day fulfilled. A little after 5pm, I arrived at a trail junction, where I went right, sticking close to the rushing water. I passed several small falls before arriving at a point where the trail had collapsed.

View of Mt Mimuro from Asodaira

Trail leading to Shiraiwa-no-Taki Waterfall

I thought I’d have to turn back but then noticed some rope leading down into and then up and out of the jumble of rocks and sand. Proceeding carefully and using the rope, I safely crossed to the other side and was soon walking again on a normal, but slippery trail. Shortly after, I arrived at the highlight of the hike, Shiraiwa waterfall (白岩ノ滝 shiraiwa-no-taki). The path took me right next to the falls, the sound water roaring in my ears; at the base, I crossed a bridge and made my way to a an observation platform on the opposite side.

Preliminary Waterfall near the Collapsed Part of the Trail

View of Shiraiwa Waterfall from the Observation Platform

I gazed in wonder at the thundering falls, wondering how much of the water was due to the recent rainfall. I was also amazed I had the place entirely to myself, although this may have been due to the late hour. I eventually pulled myself away from the view, and at 6pm, arrived at a bus stop at the end of the trail. After a short wait I boarded a bus for the short ride to Tsurutsuru Onsen, at the end of the line. After a refreshing bath, I boarded the bus again for the 30 minute ride to Musashi-Itsukaichi station where I boarded the 8pm train, finally arriving back in Shinjuku about an hour later.

See a video of the Mt Hinode Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Morito River Valley, Hayama Town & Zushi City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, June 22, 2024

I wanted to do a river walk to take advantage of the increased water flow during the rainy season, as experienced on my last outing. I found a suitable river valley cutting the Miura Alps in half. Looking online, I saw that the riverside path, also a popular birdwatching spot, was easy to navigate but the trails leading out of the valley were steep and rough, especially tricky after rain. As it had rained heavily the previous day, I decided to forego a loop hike over the top of Mt Futago (also spelled Mt Futako) on the south side and settle for the less adventurous roundtrip up and down the river valley.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to the trail entrance, I’d drive a rental car from Yokosuka-Chuo Station, 30 minutes from Yokohama station on the Keiyu line so I could skip walking under the midday sun from the nearest bus stop; I’d also be able to have lunch at a soba restaurant on the way. After returning the car, I could ride the train two stops to Hemi station and check out the fireflies at Hotaru no Sato. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon, with temperatures around 27°C; rain was forecast later in the evening. I hoped the cooler climate of the river valley would make for bearable hiking conditions and that the rain would hold off till after my firefly spotting session.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Start of the Morito River Path (left) Flat and Easy to Walk (right)

Cedars Past the Halfway Point (left) View down the Morito River (right)

The sun was already quite warm at 11am as I exited Yokosuka-Chuo station. I found my rental car on other side of Mikasa shopping arcade, and after a short drive, arrived at Wakana at 1230, the parking already nearly full. After a delicious lunch of fresh handmade soba and crispy tempura, I drove a short distance to Hayama station, a roadside station selling local food products, a handy place to park my car. After getting ready, I set off at 2h30 as thin clouds raced across the sky, and reached a gate marking the entrance of the Morito river forest path (森戸川林道 moritogawa-rindo) shortly after.

Walking Under Sun Rays (left) and Next to Running Water (right)

River Crossing (left) and River Walking (right) Past the End of the Forest Path

I was stunned by the rapid transition from the countryside to a scenery reminding me of the rainforest. The abundant vegetation pushed in on both sides, creating walls of green, and even organic tunnels. At first, I could also deduce the existence of the river from the noise trickling through the thick foliage. At one point I overtook a group of birdwatchers excitedly whispering and pointing out something invisible on some branch; I dared not ask what they were looking at and quickly moved on. A short distance away, it was my turn to spot something exciting: a snake tentatively making its way down a vertical tree trunk (see video below).

Thick Vegetation at the Start of the Morito River Forest Path

Getting a Closer Look at the Morito River

I was mesmerised, almost charmed, by this unexpected sight. The group of birdwatchers caught up but couldn’t say what the snake was called, claiming it was outside their area of expertise. A little further on, I dived down a side path leading to a rocky beach, giving me my first good look at Morito River. It seemed remarkably wide, originating from such a low-altitude range of hills, although I surmised it was temporary and caused by the recent start of the rainy season. I returned to the main trail, and after overtaking smaller and smaller groups of birdwatchers, spotted an overhead bridge through the tree branches, marking the halfway point of the Moritogawa Rindo.

Fallen Tree Spanning the Morito River and Forest Path

Overhead Road Spanning the Morito River Valley

I was impressed by this striking structure, more reminiscent of ancient jungle ruins than modern infrastructure; in fact I had driven over this very bridge on my way to the hike. After passing under it, I entered a more open forest of cedars and ferns, giving me an uninterrupted view down a straight section of the river. I could also see blue sky above the treetops; fortunately, the valley remained cool in the shade and next to running water. After walking down an avenue of towering cedars, I reentered lower and denser forest. For a brief while, the path became one with a brooklet before going their own way. At 4pm, I arrived at a clearing at the end of the Moritogawa Rindo and continued straight, following the signs for the Futagoyama Hiking Trail (二子山ハイキングコース), one of the three rugged trails leading out of the valley.

Viewpoint of Morito River

Ducking under a Tilting Tree

The path disappeared into the river almost at once, although it seemed possible to walk along the rocky banks in the drier months. The water wasn’t even ankle deep but I decided this was the right moment to head back. I picked up the pace but still took time to stop and admire some fantastically shaped tree trunks and a couple of ephemeral waterfalls. The snake had completed its descent meaning it was now slithering out of sight through the undergrowth. At 5pm I passed through the gate and a little later was back at my car. I rewarded myself with a soft ice from Hayama Station before driving back.

Still lots of Water on the Upper Section of Morito River

A Tame Path through Wild Vegetation

Night had already fallen as I got off the train at Hemi station a little after 7pm. After a 15 minute walk, I reached Firefly Village (Hotaru no Sato ホタルの里), the many signposts along the way making it easy to find even in the dark. A small crowd of people had already gathered along the riverside, mostly shadows in the darkest spots under the trees. At 7h30, the first pinpoint of light magically appeared above our heads. Gradually more and more bright spots appeared, flying in zigzag, finding and missing each other. As I ventured further up the river, away from the town lights, I was able to spot more and more fireflies. At the same time the grassy path became treacherous in the pitch-black darkness and I eventually retreated to safer grounds. At 8pm, I headed back to the station satisfied to have seen one of nature’s wonders.

Watch a Video of the Morito River Valley Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Takao (599m), Hachioji City, Tokyo Prefecture, Sunday, June 9, 2024

I wanted to do a late afternoon hike to take advantage of the longer days of June. I decided to head to Mt Takao in the hope that most people would be on the way home by then. It would be my first visit in a while since lately I’ve preferred the less popular peaks. Although I’d been to the top about a dozen times it would be my first time in June. Looking at the English map on the Mt Takao official site, I chose to go up Trail 6 and down Trails 4, 2 & 1. If I finished early enough, I could enjoy a hot spring bath before heading back.

Hiking in the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park

明治の森高尾国定公園

I would ride the Keio line limited express from Shinjuku to Takaosan-guchi, and use the same train for the return. The weather was supposed to be overcast and dry with temperatures cool for the season but comfortable for hiking. I was looking forward to my first late afternoon hike in 2 years and revisiting a familiar place. The cloudy weather meant views would be scarce but I hoped the new green of spring would make the trip worthwhile.

As of july 2025, the Inariyama trail is closed for repair. Consequently, trail #6 (described in this post) has been changed to a one-way ascending-only trail to prevent accidents and traffic jams due to overcrowding. This restriction in in place all day; trail running (in either direction) is also prohibited. In other words, it’s not possible to hike down this trail for the time being (no end date to the restriction has been given). Multiple signs in Japanese and English have been placed at the bottom and top of the trail, as well as long other trails. Please take this into account when planning your hike.

Start of Trail #6 (left) Before the Inariyama Trail Connecting Path (right)

Walking on Water past the Inariyama Trail Connection Path (left & right)

It was a grey day as I rode the mostly empty limited express from Shinjuku, arriving at Takoasan-guchi station a little after 4pm. I passed countless people heading home as I made my way from the train station to the cable car station, the starting point for most of the hiking paths. As I started up trail #6 on a paved road alongside a river, the cable car thundered by overhead; I would not be riding it today as the last one was scheduled for 6pm, well before the end of today’s hike.

River Section of Trail #6 (left) Steps at the Top of Trail #6 (right)

Looking Back at the Steps of Trail #6 (left) Heading Down Trail #4 (right)

I was surprised by the volume of water in the river, considerably more than during my previous visit in the winter months. The number of descending hikers became less and less, and past Oyama Bridge, I had the trail mostly to myself. I was impressed by the height of the cedar trees along the river valley, a reminder that I was inside the Meiji no Mori Takao Quasi-National Park. Shortly after 5pm, I reached a connecting path with the Inariyama Trail (#1) but continued straight along trail #6.

Walking Down Trail #4 (left) Steps Down Trail #4 (right)

Crossing the Suspension Bridge (left) Near the End of Trail #4 (right)

The trail turned into a stream without warning, the overflow probably due to the heavy rain from the previous days. I hadn’t expected to be walking in water and it was hard to believe I was right at the edge of Tokyo. Eventually, the trail left the river valley, heading straight up the mountain side. The steep ascent was aided by wooden steps, a fairly recent addition. Soon I reached a flat area just before trail #5, a short path encircling the summit. At 5h30, I was standing on the top of Mt Takao, eerily quiet in the early evening.

Wooden Steps on the Higher Sections of Mt Takao

Mt Fuji hidden in the Clouds

It was a rare sight to see the top of Mt Takao empty of people. I made my way to the viewpoint on the south side but today Mt Fuji was mostly hidden in the clouds. After a short break, I made my way down Trail #4 on the other side of the mountain. Many sections were fitted with steps making it easy to walk even as the daylight was swiftly fading. At 6pm, I arrived at a suspension bridge, partially hidden by green tree branches. Before the junction of Trail #4 with the road leading down from the summit, I ducked down Trail #2 for some more forest walking. At 6h30, I reached the now deserted top station of the Takao cable car.

Suspension Bridge Hidden by Tree Branches

Walking a Level Section of Trail #4

I spent a few moments enjoying the quiet atmosphere of what is usually a very busy place, before heading down trail #1, a steep road shared with authorized cars. I walked at a fast pace, overtaking the few people still left, and less than half an hour later, was back at my starting point. At 7pm, I entered the Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu (京王高尾山温泉極楽湯), right next to train station and last visited in December 2023. After a refreshing hot spring bath, I hopped onto the Keio limited express train for the one-hour ride back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Mt Takao Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Ogusu (241m), Yokotsuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, June 1, 2024 [Shonan International Village Route]

I wanted to do some more nearby, low-altitude hiking before the hot and humid weather forced me to travel far and high. Looking at my new Miura Peninsula hiking map, I decided to revisit Mt Ogusu: this time I’d start from Hemi station on the northeast side, and finish at Shonan Kokusai Village on the northwest side; on the way, I could pass by Anjin-Miura’s grave in Tsukayama Park, first visited in February 2019. I could also see the view from the Mt Ogusu observation tower, hopefully open this time.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to my starting point, I would ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama, and there change to the local Keiyu line. For the return, I could ride a bus to Shiori station, the next stop from Hemi station. Although, the year’s first typhoon had hit the area the previous day, Saturday’s weather was supposed to be mostly sunny with temperatures in the mid-twenties. I wondered how comfortable hiking in this season would be, but was looking forward to getting some more views of the Miura Peninsula.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Start of the Hike (left) Lots of Water after the Typhoon (right)

Path near the top (left) and base (right) of Tsukayama Park

It was a beautiful spring day as I got off the train at Hemi station at 10am. As I made my way through the town, I noticed food stalls lining the main street, a sure sign a festival was taking place this weekend. I stopped by Jodoji Temple, a peaceful place with a bench; apparently a small Buddha statue belonging to Anjin-Miura is kept there but sadly not on display.

Walking next to the Bamboo (left) Path up Mt Ogusu (right)

Walking down the steps (left) Near the Base of Mt Ogusu (right)

I could hear festival music playing in the background as I prepared for my hike. I set off at 11am and first made a small detour by “Hotaru no Sato” (Firefly village). It was too early in the day to see any fireflies but I discovered a charming little river valley filled with birdsong; although a path led directly to Tsukayama Park (塚山公園), I decided to head back and follow the official route, and at noon, arrived at the observation deck (見晴台) at the top of the park.

Jodoji Temple near Hemi Station

View towards “Firefly Village” on the way to Tsukayama Park

I could see the buildings of Yokotsuka City on the west side, and beyond, Tokyo Bay and the Boso peninsula; to the north, I could see the Kamakura Alps. From the nearby Fujimidai observation deck (富士見台) I could see the Miura Alps, although Mt Fuji was hiding today; overhead, cirrus clouds spread across the sky. I took a short break on a bench at Kashimadai (鹿島台), the third and last view point before heading down “Ishidatami” or Flagstone path (石畳道) on the other side. True to its name, I had to be careful not to slip on the smooth stones underfoot, still wet from yesterday’s rain.

View of Yokotsuka City with Hydrangeas in the foreground

The Miura Alps from Fujimidai in Tsukayama Park

I was surprised to see a small stream running alongside the path, its temporary existence due to the previous night’s heavy rains. I left the park behind and followed a busy road southwards, soon reaching the entrance of another trail. After a short, steep climb, I reached the top of a narrow, up and down ridge. Although there were few views, I was glad to be in the shade during the hottest time of day. I soon passed the minor summit of Mt Gongen (権現山 138m), devoid of a summit marker and a view, so I continued without a break, now heading down.

View towards Yokohama from Tsukayama Park

View of Tokyo Bay from Kashimadai in Tsukayama Park

I had to fray myself a passage through the vegetation and was relieved upon reaching more open forest at the base of the hill. Suddenly, the path turned into a small stream and the sound of croaking could be heard under the tall cedars. I followed the water as it left the trail and ended in a large pond. The frogs lost their voice upon my arrival and stayed quiet even after I left. A few minutes later, I popped onto a road; turning around, I could hardly see the trail entrance. I crossed a busy road and at the top of a slope, reached another trail entrance, equally hard to find. The path hugged the forest on the left side, with fields on the right side.

A Hidden Pond at the base of Mt Gongen

Gazing at the Miura Alps from the top of Mt Ogusu

I was excited to suddenly spot a Japanese Pheasant at a bend in the path. I followed it for a while as it calmly lured me away from its chick. After a short climb, I reached a bridge over the Yokotsuka toll road, the trail continuing on the other side, recrossing the road via a graffiti-covered underground passage. I reached another section of near unpassable overgrown trail before arriving at a paved road at the base of Mt Ogusu. There, I turned left, and then right onto a lovely path along a bamboo grove. I soon reached another road, where I turned left. I was now walking next to a golf course, my path eventually merging with the one from my previous hike. At 4pm I reached the summit of Mt Ogusu.

Second Observation Tower on Mt Ogusu

Mt Ogusu from the Shonan Kokusai Village

I was slightly disappointed to that the observation tower was still closed, and after a short break, headed to the second and lower observation tower for the make-up view. I had to backtrack a little to reach the entrance of the Shonan Kokusai Village Trail (湘南国際村コース), with steps to help with the steeper parts. At 4h30, I reached a paved road at the edge of the forest, once again bordering the golf course. As I followed it up and down a pass, I had good views of today’s mountain, the second observation tower shining in the late afternoon sun. I arrived at Shonan Kokusai Village a little before 5pm, where I caught a bus for the short ride back to Shiori station.

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Mt Toki (463m), Mt Yasuyo (462m), Mt Kana (539m) & Mt Shiho (290m), Tokigawa and Ogawa Towns, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, May 25, 2024

I wanted to some more hiking in the low hills of northwest Tokyo before the arrival of the rainy season. I was also looking for something short and easy after a 2-week break. Looking at my map, I saw I could walk from Jiko-ji temple in Tokigawa to Matsuoka Sake Brewery in Ogawa. After checking out the temple, I would head westwards to the highest point of the hike, then descend northeast along a ridge, and finish near the end of my hike on Mt Kannookura one year ago. If I got there before 5pm, I would be able to drop by the small shop inside the brewery and maybe even sample some Japanese sake.

Hiking in Oku-Musashi 奥武蔵

I would ride an express train from Ikebukuro to Ogawamachi, and from there, take a taxi to the parking below the temple. To get back to the station, I could catch a bus from a stop close to the brewery. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures under 25 degrees, significantly cooler than the previous few weekends. Most of the route was downhill along a rough trail through the forest; I could expect few views but also few people. I was looking forward to a solitary ramble through the hills of Oku-Musashi.

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Steps Leading to Jiko Temple (left) Start of the Hiking Path (right)

Path before Mt Toki (left) Path before Mt Yasuyo (right)

It was a perfect spring day as I rode the Tobu-Tojo line for the one-hour trip to Ogawamachi Station, arriving there at 11am. After buying some Okara donuts from Shimizuya opposite the station, I hopped into a taxi for the 20-minute ride to Jiko-ji temple (慈光寺), part of the Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. After getting ready, I set off at 1230 and headed up some stone steps surrounded by the new green of spring, soon arriving at Kannon-do (観音堂).

Trail past Mt Kana (left) Descending to the Road Crossing (right)

Passing near a Rocky Outcrop (left) Following a Narrow Ridge (right)

After admiring the elaborate wooden carvings of the Kannon temple, I located the start of the trail, leading into the forest behind the building. I was now on the Tokigawa Trekking Route (ときがわトレッキングコース), hiked in 2017, but soon left it, taking an unmarked trail on the right. After a short climb through the cedars, I reached the top of Mt Toki (都幾山 ときさん toki-san). I quickly moved on and after some level walking, arrived at the top of Mt Yasuyo (育代山 やすよやま yasuyo-yama). I continued without a break, and after some more climbing, reached the top of Mt Kana (金嶽 かなたけ kana-take), the highest point of the hike. There, I turned right, heading down the mountain side.

Stone steps through the New Green of Spring

Kannon-do Temple within the Jiko Temple Grounds

I was relieved to be following a clear path through the forest, although I couldn’t spot any signs indicating the way. At 1h30, I arrived at a road crossing, beyond which the trail became faint; fortunately from this point, I could count on pink ribbons to confirm the way, in addition to my phone GPS. As expected, I saw no other hikers on this up and down trail along a narrow ridgeline. At 2h30, I passed under an electric pylon where I had a view of Mt Kasa to the northwest. Soon after, I arrived at the top of Mt Shiho (士峰山 しほうざん shihou-zan), marked by a small shrine. I took a break for lunch, enjoying an Okura donut for dessert. From this point the trail suddenly became harder to walk and follow.

View Southeast from the Electric Pylon

Countryside View at the End of the Hike

I proceeded with caution, picking the most walkable parts among the rocks and bushes. At 3h30, I passed another minor summit (古寺山 280m). From this point, the trail condition improved, although it had suddenly become quite windy. I started to descend quickly, and half an hour later, emerged onto a small lane. I had finished earlier than expected so I headed over to the nearby Matsuoka Sake Brewery and was able to sample their Mikado Matsu brand from their handy sake server. After buying a bottle for home, I set off for the bus stop, and after a short ride, was back at Ogawamachi station just before 5pm.

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Mt Otakatori (376m), Ogose Town, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday May 11, 2024

I wanted to do a short morning hike close to Tokyo to beat the early summer heat that was forecast for the weekend. I decided to head to Mt Otakatori in the Ogose Alps, last climbed two years ago. Looking at my map, I spotted a trail on its west side leading to an observation deck on the top ridge. From there, I’d follow the ridgeline north to the highest point. I’d then descend a valley on the east side and check out a minor peak protruding from the forested foothills. I’d end the hike at a park at the foot of the mountain, a short walk from the station.

Hiking in Oku-Musashi & the Ogose Alps

奥武蔵　・　 越生アルプス

Start of the Kami-Daima Trail (left) Sun Shining on the New Green (right)

Walking under Fallen Trees (left) and between the Ferns (right)

To get to the start of the trail, I would ride the Tobu express train from Ikebukuro to Sakado and then change to a Tobu local train ending at Ogose station. From there, I’d catch a bus for Kuroyama and get off a few stops before the end of the line. The forecast called for blue skies and temperatures in the high twenties; I hoped I’d be able to wrap up my hike by the early afternoon. I was looking forward to exploring new trails on a familiar mountain and getting some good views on an early summer day.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Passing by Nishi-Daimon Orchards (left) Path for Kokuzoson (right)

Wide Trail (left) and Narrow Footpath (right) for Nishi-Yamafuji

It was a beautiful spring morning as I rode the train out of the city, glad that I could sit all the way. After arriving at Ogose station shortly after 9am, I boarded the bus for the short ride to Kami-Daima stop near a bridge over a river. After getting ready, I quickly located the start of the trail, an unmarked footpath to the right of a gravel driveway, and by 10am was walking in the cool shade of the cedars. Less than an hour later, I emerged from the forest onto a road at Nishi-Daimon Orchards (西大門農園), a short distance from the Katsuragi Kannon observation deck (桂木観音展望台), which I reached just before 11am.

View Southeast from the Katsuragi Kannon Observation Deck

View Northeast from the Top of Mt Otakatori

I enjoyed the view, the new green of spring contrasting nicely with the bright blue sky; in the distance I could see the flat Kanto Plain and the skyscrapers of Tokyo. I went up a series of stone steps starting directly behind the deck and ending at Katsuraki Kannon temple, the hiking trail continuing on the left. Very soon, I passed the minor summit of Mt Katsuragi (桂木山 かつらぎさん katsuragi-san 376m), completely within the trees. Soon after, I arrived at a large crossroads in the middle of the forest where I continued straight, reaching the summit of Mt Otakatori (大高取山 おおたかとりやま otakatori-yama) soon after.

View of the Ogose Alps from Mt Otakatori

Closeup of the section between Mt Ogose and Kanhashu

Some trees had been cut on the west side, opening up a superb view of the Ogose Alps (越生アルプス): I could see all the way from Mt Ogose on the left to Kanhashu on the right. I then turned to face the more familiar view on the west side: between a gap in the trees, I could see the rounded top of Mt Nishi-Takatori lower down and Ogose Town and the Kanto Plain beyond. It was already 1130 and time to head down; a little after noon, I turned right onto a path for Kokuzon (虚空蔵尊), taking me away from the busy main trail up and down the mountain.

Few People at the Summit on this Beautiful Day

Forest Road leading to Kokuzon Sakura Park

I was delighted to be have the trail to myself again, walking down a green valley alongside a bubbling stream. Half an hour later, I reached a forest road but soon turned right up a trail next to a brooklet, a tributary of the stream from earlier. The path curved in a counter-clockwise direction and I was soon heading east again. I made a short roundtrip to the top of Nishi-Yamafuji (西山富士 にしやまふじ nishi-yamafuji 190m), a peaceful spot in the middle of the forest. Back on the main trail, I soon exited the forest and arrived at a viewpoint and a couple of log benches, also the top of Mt Kokuzon Sakura (虚空蔵尊さくら山 170m), the highest point of the Kokuzon Sakura Park.

East Ridge of Mt Otakatori from Mt Kokuzon Sakura

View of the Kanto Plain from Kokuzon Sakura Park

I was pleasantly surprised by this beautiful view, not shown on any of my maps. I could see the eastern ridge of today’s mountain, freckled with light green, as well as the flat Kanto plain stretching away under the light blue sky streaked with white cirrus clouds. After a short break, I set off again, heading down one of the many paths through the park and arriving at the mountain base at about 1h30. I made my way back to Ogose station as fast as I could; although the surrounding countryside was pleasant, I was now out of the forest and fully exposed to the hot afternoon sun. By 2pm, I was glad to be sitting again in the cool interior of the train bound for Tokyo.

Watch a Video of the Mt Otakatori Hike

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Tsuzura, Oyado & Nishi-Kubo Marshes, Tokorozawa City, Saitama Prefecture, Saturday, May 4, 2024

I was looking for an easy hike to get back in shape after a three-week break. Considering the Golden Week crowds, I settled on a morning stroll through the Sayama Hills, last visited one year ago. Looking at Google Maps, I found a new trail to explore: it was through a block of adjacent “Totoro’s Forests” surrounding a marsh at the eastern end of the hills. I could then follow the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road to the Saitama Green Forest Museum, and from there revisit two more wetlands on the northern side of the lake.

Hiking in the Sayama hills 狭山丘陵

I would ride the Seibu line to Kotesashi Station, and there, catch a bus for the 15-minute ride to “Waseda Daigaku”, the end of the line and next to several parcels of Totoro’s forest. From the final marsh, I could walk a short way to Miyadera-Nishi bus stop, the end of the line and a thirty-minute ride back to Kotesashi station. The forecast called for blue skies and temperatures approaching 30 degrees. I was looking forward to walking through green forests and wetlands on Greenery Day, and hoped they would keep me cool on an early summer day.

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Start of the hike near Waseda University (right) Log steps for Totoro Forest #33 (left)

Path next to Totoro’s Forest #5 (left) Dirt Road around Sayama Lake (right)

I was glad to be comfortably seated on the half empty local line for the one-hour trip to Kotesashi station, most people preferring further destinations for the holidays. The bus for Waseda University was completed deserted on the weekend (also a holiday) but I could imagine it being packed on a class day. After getting ready and having a late breakfast on the shaded circular bus stop bench, I set off around 1030, already feeling quite warm under the mid-morning sun.

Boardwalk along Totoro’s Forest #51

Grassy Field at the end of Tsuzura Marsh

I was amazed to find a path leading into the forest directly opposite the bus stop, possibly the shortest distance between public transport and full-nature immersion in the area. As I passed Totoro’s Forests #20, 21, 26, 31, 33 & 41, it felt wonderful to be wandering through this nature preserve within the confines of Greater Tokyo. After some ups and downs I reached a wooden bridge spanning Tsuzura Marsh (葛籠湿地), also Totoro’s Forests #51 & 34, where I turned left along a boardwalk and then onto a footpath disappearing into a field of tall grasses at the head of a valley.

Bug Catching Family Walking through Oyado Marsh

Nothing but Green at the Edge of Dragonfly Swamp

I marvelled at being surrounded by green grass in every direction, forming a nice contrast with the blue sky overhead. After carefully treading a path of trampled grass around the field I retraced my steps to the bridge. There I took a path going up on the left but soon turned right and down some log steps into Wako Forest (和幸の森). At the top of a slope I followed a straight path along Totoro’s Forest #5. At 11h30 I reached the Sayama Lake Perimeter Road, following it in a counter-clockwise direction. Less than half an hour later I hopped back onto a path leading to the Forest Museum and Oyado Marsh (大谷戸湿地) where I overtook a net-wielding family hunting for bugs.

Grassy Path near Nishi-Kubo Marsh

One of the Hills of Sayama-Kyuryo

I was pleased to have the trail to myself again as a walked along the left side of the marsh, the muddy waters hidden by tall grasses. At Dragonfly Swamp (トンボ湿地) the path curved right as it reentered the forest; at the next junction I turned left, now merging with my previous hike. After a short climb followed by a descent I reached Nishi-kubo Marsh (西久保湿地), a lovely spot with ponds and a stream wedged between hills and houses. As I was ahead of schedule I spent some time observing clusters of tadpoles happily wiggling in sunny shallow ponds, as well as a grey heron take off and fly away.

Tea Fields surrounding Nishi-Kubo Marsh

View of the Hills of Okumusashi from near Nishi-Kubo Kannon Temple

I suddenly noticed a small, furry creature trotting along the edge of the marsh, either a tanuki or a weasel, but it soon scampered off into the forest. Other trails around the marsh were closed due to typhoon damage and this may account for the absence of people and presence of wildlife. My bus was due soon so I left the marshes behind and after a pleasant walk along lanes and fields, I arrived at Miyadera-Nishi just after 1pm. It was starting to feel hot under the midday sun and I was relieved to be sitting inside the cool bus for the ride back to Kotesashi station.

Watch a video of the Totoro Forest Hike

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Mt Kinugasa (134m) & Mt Ogusu (241m), Yokotsuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, April 13, 2024

I wanted to do another hike using the newly published Miura/Boso hiking map. Looking over the Miura section, I found a new peak to climb on the Tokyo Bay side. It was a little short but it seemed possible to continue along a hiking trail and go up the back side of Mt Ogusu (climbed in winter 2021). From the top, I would head down the main trail, ending on the Sagami bay side of the peninsula. It would be my first time to hike in this area in the spring and I hoped to catch the last cherry blossoms of the season

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Steps going up (left) and down (right) in Kinugasa-yama Park

Connecting Path to Mt Ogusu (left) Alternative Trail up Mt Ogusu (right)

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to the start, I would take the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Zushi, and then ride the Yokotsuka line a few stops to Kinugasa station, a short distance on foot from the trailhead. For the return, I could catch one of the many buses for Zushi station, my only concern being the heavy weekend traffic around Hayama Town. The weather was supposed to be sunny most of the day and cooler near the ocean than on the mainland. Since each peak had its own observatory, I was looking forward to getting some good views of the Miura peninsula.

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Rear Side Ridge (left) and Front Side Ridge (right) on Mt Ogusu

Walking in the Afternoon Sun (left) and along the River (right)

It was a fine spring day as I got off the train at Kinugasa Station around 10am. After a stroll through a shopping arcade, I reached Kinugasa-yama Park (衣笠山公園) and the start of the trail at 1030. Almost at once, I found myself walking through beautiful nature, no other hikers in sight. I soon arrived at a stone staircase where I turned left. At the top, I turned left again, now walking up a paved road, leading to a flat open space at the top of Mt Kinugasa (衣笠山 きぬがさやま kinugasa-yama). The view from the observation deck was partially hidden by cherry blossoms trees, so I quickly moved on to a taller observation tower a few minutes away.

Walking through the lower half of Kinugasa-yama Park

Walking through the higher half of Kinugasa-yama Park

I was impressed by the view from the top of this low mountain, as I could see most of the peaks of the Miura peninsula, Tokyo Bay and the western coast of the Boso peninsula. To the south, I spotted Mt Hodai and Mt Miura-Fuji past the treetops; directly west was Mt Ogusu, the highest peak in the area; finally, the Miura Alps extended across the neck of the peninsula on the north side. Cherry blossom trees surrounded the tower but were already past their prime. I continued my hike, walking down log steps sprinkled with fallen petals. Just before noon, I reached a busy road at the base of the mountain. I followed it for a short while but soon left it to follow a lane up a steep slope. Just beyond a staircase leading to a shrine, the lane ended at another hiking trail.

View of Mt Ogusu from the top of Mt Kinugasa

View of Tokyo Bay from the top of Mt Kinugasa

I was delighted to be back on a hiking path, surrounded by the forest and free of people. The trail was mostly level, a fallen tree trunk providing the only difficulty. Shortly before 1pm, I reached a bridge over a highway, picking up the trail on the other side. After a short climb, I arrived at a road free of traffic leading to a recycling center. After observing a couple of cats strut around, I made my way up some steps leading to the next part of the hiking route. After some easy climbing along a well-maintained path, I reached a ridgeline at 1h30, and continued straight, ignoring a trail on the left side.

Irises lining the path

Many steps up Mt Ogusu

The many iris flowers lining both sides of the path made this the most pleasant part of the hike. The forest retreated to allow for a power line, revealing blue skies splashed with white cirrus clouds. Very soon I arrived at the junction of my previous hike here. From this point, I followed a series of log steps through the new spring green all the way to the top of Mt Ogusu (大楠山 おおぐすやま oogusu-yama), a Kanto 100 famous mountain. Since it was 2h30, I sat down for a late lunch. The main observation tower was closed but another one a short distance way provided good views of the Miura Peninsual to the south and the Miura Alps to the north.

View of Mt Hodai and Mt Miura-Fuji from the top of Mt Ogusu

“Half Blossoms” and “half Miura” from the the Observation Tower

I was glad to see more cherry blossoms trees around the tower, half the petals still hanging on. I now headed down the Maedabashi route (前田橋コース), also the Kanto Fureai no Michi, passing relatively few people on the way. Half an hour later, I arrived at the start of the Maedagawa Promenade (前田川遊歩道). I had done it twice before but the water level had been lower than now, and it was a lot more impressive in this season. I wanted to linger to enjoy the sound of rushing water but I had a bus to catch. By 4pm, I was on my way back to Zushi station, reached after a slight delay due to the expected traffic jams. There, I boarded the Shonan-Shinjuku line for the one hour ride back to Tokyo.

Watch a video of the Mt Ogusu Hike

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See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike