I wanted to do a river walk to take advantage of the increased water flow during the rainy season, as experienced on my last outing. I found a suitable river valley cutting the Miura Alps in half. Looking online, I saw that the riverside path, also a popular birdwatching spot, was easy to navigate but the trails leading out of the valley were steep and rough, especially tricky after rain. As it had rained heavily the previous day, I decided to forego a loop hike over the top of Mt Futago (also spelled Mt Futako) on the south side and settle for the less adventurous roundtrip up and down the river valley.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to the trail entrance, I’d drive a rental car from Yokosuka-Chuo Station, 30 minutes from Yokohama station on the Keiyu line so I could skip walking under the midday sun from the nearest bus stop; I’d also be able to have lunch at a soba restaurant on the way. After returning the car, I could ride the train two stops to Hemi station and check out the fireflies at Hotaru no Sato. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon, with temperatures around 27°C; rain was forecast later in the evening. I hoped the cooler climate of the river valley would make for bearable hiking conditions and that the rain would hold off till after my firefly spotting session.

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Start of the Morito River Path (left) Flat and Easy to Walk (right)

Cedars Past the Halfway Point (left) View down the Morito River (right)

The sun was already quite warm at 11am as I exited Yokosuka-Chuo station. I found my rental car on other side of Mikasa shopping arcade, and after a short drive, arrived at Wakana at 1230, the parking already nearly full. After a delicious lunch of fresh handmade soba and crispy tempura, I drove a short distance to Hayama station, a roadside station selling local food products, a handy place to park my car. After getting ready, I set off at 2h30 as thin clouds raced across the sky, and reached a gate marking the entrance of the Morito river forest path (森戸川林道 moritogawa-rindo) shortly after.

Walking Under Sun Rays (left) and Next to Running Water (right)

River Crossing (left) and River Walking (right) Past the End of the Forest Path

I was stunned by the rapid transition from the countryside to a scenery reminding me of the rainforest. The abundant vegetation pushed in on both sides, creating walls of green, and even organic tunnels. At first, I could also deduce the existence of the river from the noise trickling through the thick foliage. At one point I overtook a group of birdwatchers excitedly whispering and pointing out something invisible on some branch; I dared not ask what they were looking at and quickly moved on. A short distance away, it was my turn to spot something exciting: a snake tentatively making its way down a vertical tree trunk (see video below).

Thick Vegetation at the Start of the Morito River Forest Path

Getting a Closer Look at the Morito River

I was mesmerised, almost charmed, by this unexpected sight. The group of birdwatchers caught up but couldn’t say what the snake was called, claiming it was outside their area of expertise. A little further on, I dived down a side path leading to a rocky beach, giving me my first good look at Morito River. It seemed remarkably wide, originating from such a low-altitude range of hills, although I surmised it was temporary and caused by the recent start of the rainy season. I returned to the main trail, and after overtaking smaller and smaller groups of birdwatchers, spotted an overhead bridge through the tree branches, marking the halfway point of the Moritogawa Rindo.

Fallen Tree Spanning the Morito River and Forest Path

Overhead Road Spanning the Morito River Valley

I was impressed by this striking structure, more reminiscent of ancient jungle ruins than modern infrastructure; in fact I had driven over this very bridge on my way to the hike. After passing under it, I entered a more open forest of cedars and ferns, giving me an uninterrupted view down a straight section of the river. I could also see blue sky above the treetops; fortunately, the valley remained cool in the shade and next to running water. After walking down an avenue of towering cedars, I reentered lower and denser forest. For a brief while, the path became one with a brooklet before going their own way. At 4pm, I arrived at a clearing at the end of the Moritogawa Rindo and continued straight, following the signs for the Futagoyama Hiking Trail (二子山ハイキングコース), one of the three rugged trails leading out of the valley.

Viewpoint of Morito River

Ducking under a Tilting Tree

The path disappeared into the river almost at once, although it seemed possible to walk along the rocky banks in the drier months. The water wasn’t even ankle deep but I decided this was the right moment to head back. I picked up the pace but still took time to stop and admire some fantastically shaped tree trunks and a couple of ephemeral waterfalls. The snake had completed its descent meaning it was now slithering out of sight through the undergrowth. At 5pm I passed through the gate and a little later was back at my car. I rewarded myself with a soft ice from Hayama Station before driving back.

Still lots of Water on the Upper Section of Morito River

A Tame Path through Wild Vegetation

Night had already fallen as I got off the train at Hemi station a little after 7pm. After a 15 minute walk, I reached Firefly Village (Hotaru no Sato ホタルの里), the many signposts along the way making it easy to find even in the dark. A small crowd of people had already gathered along the riverside, mostly shadows in the darkest spots under the trees. At 7h30, the first pinpoint of light magically appeared above our heads. Gradually more and more bright spots appeared, flying in zigzag, finding and missing each other. As I ventured further up the river, away from the town lights, I was able to spot more and more fireflies. At the same time the grassy path became treacherous in the pitch-black darkness and I eventually retreated to safer grounds. At 8pm, I headed back to the station satisfied to have seen one of nature’s wonders.

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

I wanted to do another hike using the newly published Miura/Boso hiking map. Looking over the Miura section, I found a new peak to climb on the Tokyo Bay side. It was a little short but it seemed possible to continue along a hiking trail and go up the back side of Mt Ogusu (climbed in winter 2021). From the top, I would head down the main trail, ending on the Sagami bay side of the peninsula. It would be my first time to hike in this area in the spring and I hoped to catch the last cherry blossoms of the season

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Steps going up (left) and down (right) in Kinugasa-yama Park

Connecting Path to Mt Ogusu (left) Alternative Trail up Mt Ogusu (right)

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to the start, I would take the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Zushi, and then ride the Yokotsuka line a few stops to Kinugasa station, a short distance on foot from the trailhead. For the return, I could catch one of the many buses for Zushi station, my only concern being the heavy weekend traffic around Hayama Town. The weather was supposed to be sunny most of the day and cooler near the ocean than on the mainland. Since each peak had its own observatory, I was looking forward to getting some good views of the Miura peninsula.

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Rear Side Ridge (left) and Front Side Ridge (right) on Mt Ogusu

Walking in the Afternoon Sun (left) and along the River (right)

It was a fine spring day as I got off the train at Kinugasa Station around 10am. After a stroll through a shopping arcade, I reached Kinugasa-yama Park (衣笠山公園) and the start of the trail at 1030. Almost at once, I found myself walking through beautiful nature, no other hikers in sight. I soon arrived at a stone staircase where I turned left. At the top, I turned left again, now walking up a paved road, leading to a flat open space at the top of Mt Kinugasa (衣笠山 きぬがさやま kinugasa-yama). The view from the observation deck was partially hidden by cherry blossoms trees, so I quickly moved on to a taller observation tower a few minutes away.

Walking through the lower half of Kinugasa-yama Park

Walking through the higher half of Kinugasa-yama Park

I was impressed by the view from the top of this low mountain, as I could see most of the peaks of the Miura peninsula, Tokyo Bay and the western coast of the Boso peninsula. To the south, I spotted Mt Hodai and Mt Miura-Fuji past the treetops; directly west was Mt Ogusu, the highest peak in the area; finally, the Miura Alps extended across the neck of the peninsula on the north side. Cherry blossom trees surrounded the tower but were already past their prime. I continued my hike, walking down log steps sprinkled with fallen petals. Just before noon, I reached a busy road at the base of the mountain. I followed it for a short while but soon left it to follow a lane up a steep slope. Just beyond a staircase leading to a shrine, the lane ended at another hiking trail.

View of Mt Ogusu from the top of Mt Kinugasa

View of Tokyo Bay from the top of Mt Kinugasa

I was delighted to be back on a hiking path, surrounded by the forest and free of people. The trail was mostly level, a fallen tree trunk providing the only difficulty. Shortly before 1pm, I reached a bridge over a highway, picking up the trail on the other side. After a short climb, I arrived at a road free of traffic leading to a recycling center. After observing a couple of cats strut around, I made my way up some steps leading to the next part of the hiking route. After some easy climbing along a well-maintained path, I reached a ridgeline at 1h30, and continued straight, ignoring a trail on the left side.

Irises lining the path

Many steps up Mt Ogusu

The many iris flowers lining both sides of the path made this the most pleasant part of the hike. The forest retreated to allow for a power line, revealing blue skies splashed with white cirrus clouds. Very soon I arrived at the junction of my previous hike here. From this point, I followed a series of log steps through the new spring green all the way to the top of Mt Ogusu (大楠山 おおぐすやま oogusu-yama), a Kanto 100 famous mountain. Since it was 2h30, I sat down for a late lunch. The main observation tower was closed but another one a short distance way provided good views of the Miura Peninsual to the south and the Miura Alps to the north.

View of Mt Hodai and Mt Miura-Fuji from the top of Mt Ogusu

“Half Blossoms” and “half Miura” from the the Observation Tower

I was glad to see more cherry blossoms trees around the tower, half the petals still hanging on. I now headed down the Maedabashi route (前田橋コース), also the Kanto Fureai no Michi, passing relatively few people on the way. Half an hour later, I arrived at the start of the Maedagawa Promenade (前田川遊歩道). I had done it twice before but the water level had been lower than now, and it was a lot more impressive in this season. I wanted to linger to enjoy the sound of rushing water but I had a bus to catch. By 4pm, I was on my way back to Zushi station, reached after a slight delay due to the expected traffic jams. There, I boarded the Shonan-Shinjuku line for the one hour ride back to Tokyo.

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike