Kanagawa – Hiking Around Tokyo

Miura Reef Route, Miura City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 24th, 2026

I’d visited Jogashima island at the southern end of the Miura peninsula in 2013, and hiked Mt Hodai and Mt Fuji-Miura, its southernmost peaks, in 2015. I had known for a while that the Kanagawa Kanto Fureai no Michi followed its southern coastline from east to west, and after my recent walk on the Boso Peninsula coast, I was in the mood for another seashore hike. Along the way, I’d pass by a famous lighthouse, a couple of bays and several fishing ports; finally, I could expect some good views of the Boso peninsula. This was another popular summer spot which I hoped would be free of people in the middle of winter.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama, and there, change to the limited express on the Keikyu Kurihama line. I’d get off at Miura-Kaigan station, one stop before the end of the line, and then ride a bus to the start of the Fureai no Michi. For the return, I’d catch a bus for Misakiguchi Station, and then ride the limited express again back to Yokohama. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, although quite cold and windy. I hoped the conditions would be tolerable and was looking forward to an interesting outing along the Miura Peninsula coastline.

This hike can only be done at low tide since some sections are under water at high tide. Make sure to check the tide times beforehand.

Start of the Reef Route (left) Tsurugisaki Lighthouse (right)

Reef Path (left) Metal Bridge (right)

It was another blue sky day as I rode the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama. Although there is no extra fee for the Keikyu limited express trains, not all have forward-facing seats, and I ended up having to stand for most of the trip. Fortunately, the spectacular views of Tokyo Bay made time go by faster. At Miura-Kaigan Station, I boarded a bus for the last leg of the trip and was glad to get a seat for a short while. Shortly before noon I got off at a stop on a windswept plateau surrounded by green fields with a view of the Boso peninsula across Tokyo Bay.

View of the Boso Peninsula from Oura Beach

Fureai no Michi Marker on the Reef

It was my first time to see the peaks of the Boso Peninsula so clearly. From left to right I could see Mt Kano, Mt Nokogiri and Mt Tomi, all directly on the sea; further inland, I could make out the summits of Mt Atago, Mt Iyo, Mt Goten and Mt Dainichi. A cold wind started blowing so I quickly headed downhill towards the coast, following the wooden signs of the Fureai no Michi. At a bend in the road I noticed some “suisen” (daffodil) and yellow “katabami” (woodsorrel) in full bloom. Near the base of a slope, I make a short detour to Oura Beach (大浦海水浴場) where I got another view of the Boso Peninsula. I then retraced my steps and soon arrived at Maguchi Port (間口漁港), the first fishing port of the day.

Mt Nokogiri (left) and double-peaked Mt Tomi (right)

Lunch spot between Misaki Cap and Ena Bay

I was surprised how quiet and peaceful the port was on this cold winter day, most boats moored to the quay or even out of water. I saw no one as I made my way round the circular quay, no waves disturbing the dark blue water. At 1pm, I reached the end of the concrete platform and passed through a gap in a wall with tetrapods, wave breaker blocks, on the other side. I suddenly found myself walking on a rocky shore directly on the coast. The transition from walking on flat concrete to balancing on smooth rocktops was quite abrupt and I proceeded slowly to give myself time to adjust to the change.

Sea Waves Crashing into the Reef

Reflected Sunlight on Calmer Waters

The sea, so calm moments before, now turned noisy as waves crashed onto the reef, encouraged by the strong winter wind. I wondered how quickly I’d be able to move among the rocks but I soon spotted a well-defined sandy path near the cliff base; it led to a small beach in the shade of a bluff on the south side. Here stood a wooden signpost for the Fureai no Michi in excellent condition, reassuring me that I’d easily be able to follow the Reef Route (岩礁のみち “gansho no michi“). After observing wavelets gently wash up through rocky inlets, I headed up a road on the right side, temporarily leaving the coastline behind.

Looking back towards the Boso Peninsula

Looking ahead towards Jogashima Island on the left side

I soon arrived at a white tower at the top of the bluff, one of today’s highlights, the Tsurugisaki Cape Lighthouse (剱埼灯台), built more than 150 years ago and featured in a number of dramas. From this higher vantage point I could now see the entire length of the Boso peninsula, all the way to the hilly Minami-boso area. Huge tankers passed slowly through the choppy waters of Tokyo Bay and into the Pacific ocean. Gusts of wind cut my gazing short and I quickly made my way back to the reef. The path headed back onto the rocks and along a narrow ledge protruding from the cliff face, allowing to get past a rocky inlet still free of water. As I rounded Tsurugisaki Cape, a hidden bay opened up in front of me.

Second Break Spot between Ena and Bishamon Bays

Green Algae near Kochizaki Cape

I realised how deceptive distances could be, the far side of the bay now seeming a long way away. I cautiously picked my way through the reef, steering clear of the most slippery rocks. The bay was enclosed by pale yellow cliffs providing few escape routes. It was past low tide, and although hide tide was several hours away, the crashing of windblown waves against the surrounding reef made me nervous. I was reassured by the continued presence of the Fureai no Michi signposts, but they now included warnings to take a detour route in case of high waters, as well a warning of falling rocks.

Green-blue Waters Free of Waves

Tricky Passage on the left side near the End of the Hike

For once, I was relieved to see people along the route, although relatively few in this season. At 2pm, I settled on a whitened log for a lunch break with a view of the cliffs. A sandy section sped me up, and I soon rounded the southern side of the small bay, the outline of Jogashima Island visible in the far distance. Shortly after, I climbed onto the concrete dock of Matsuwa fishing port (松輪漁港) on Ena Bay (江奈湾). From this point, I followed the road as it curved around the bay and then headed up inland. At the highest point, with a view of farmland on the north side, I turned left, heading back to the shore where I resumed walking along the narrow reef between sea and cliffs. I took a second break at another washed up log just before Kochizaki Cape (東風崎), this time facing the wide open sea. The waters were calmer here, the rocks covered in green algae.

Narrow section of the Reef Route

Tidal Waters from the High Tide

This section required some pathfinding in addition to surefootedness to navigate around the deep, twisting water inlets, some already filling up with seawater. Several metal bridges, as well as a series of raised stepping stones, helped me leapfrog over the trickier bits but I could imagine getting trapped by the rising water. A little after 2h30, I reached Bishamon Bay and Fishing port (毘沙門湾・毘沙門漁港), a short section of more relaxed walking before I returned to the reef. The sun was now low on the horizon and I alternated between shaded and sunlight sections. I turned around occasionally to admire the cliffs, golden yellow in the late afternoon sun. Before each bend, I could hear breaking waves and see white foam, further passage seemingly impossible, but gradually a safe passage comes into view, the fierce waves firmly held in check by the reef.

The Route Passes along the Base of the Cliff

Gold-Coloured Cliffs in the Late Afternoon Light

Here and there, short concrete walkways appeared, making it easier to cross wide sections of reef. Around 4pm, I passed Nusuttogari (盗人狩 meaning “hunted thief”) where according to legend a fleeing thief was trapped by the steep cliffs and raging waters. I could easily relate to feeling trapped and quickly escaped from the spot. After passing a dark cave, I slipped through a passage to the left of a rocky cape and entered Miyagawa Port (宮川港), the end of the Miura Reef Route, around 4h30. I headed up a sloping road, leaving the reef behind, and after a 20-minute walk though Miyagawa town, reached a bus stop from where it was a short ride to Misakiguchi station. This time I was lucky to get the more comfortable forward-facing seats on the return trip to Yokohama.

Watch a Video of the Hike

See More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Yakunimi (319m), Hadano City & Oi Town, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 17, 2026

I’d hiked most of the Soga Hills in January 2018 from Kamioi to Kozu station. Recently I found out about the Fujimizuka Hiking Trail on the Kanagawa Prefecture website. This hike, mainly along country lanes, connects Kamioi with Matsuda station and completes the traverse of the hills. Rather than redo the first part, identical to my 2018 hike, I decided to start from Shibusawa station instead. Looking at my map, I saw I could follow hiking trails and back roads past a mountain with a view of Mt Fuji; a short walk along a prefectural road would then connect me with the main trail. Another view of Fuji awaited me at Fujimizuka near the end of the hike.

Hiking in the Soga Hills 曽我丘陵

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu “Fujisan Express” from Shinjuku to Hadano station, and then transfer to the local Odakyu line for the one stop ride to Shibusawa. There, I would catch a local bus and get off at the base of the Shibusawa Hills, a short distance from the trail entrance. The afternoon would be enough for this short hike allowing me to take the mid-morning train. For the return, I’d catch the “Fujisan express” again, but this time from Matsuda station. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day, important for getting a good view of Fuji, the temperatures unseasonably warm. I was looking forward to a relaxing hike through the woods and countryside of Kanagawa.

Ascending (left) and Level Trail (right) for Mt Yakunimi

Stairs (left) and Footpath (right) connecting with Mt Takao

It was another blue-sky day, so common in winter in the Tokyo area, as I rode the limited express to Hadano station. Both transfers, first to the local train line and then to the bus line, went quickly and smoothly; shortly after noon, I got off at a stop in the middle of a long slope and headed up a steep road running parallel to the main road, taking me into the Shibusawa Hills (渋沢丘陵). At a bend in the road, I reached a viewpoint of the Tanzawa mountains to the north.

View of the Tanzawa Mountains at the start of the Hike

“Field View point” on the Trail for Mt Zukko

I was surprised by the lack of snow in this season, probably due to the ongoing dry weather. From left to right, I could see Mt Nabewari, Mt To and Mt Oyama, ridges and valleys easily discernable in the clear winter air. I continued up the steep road, now heading south. Since the air was so clear today, I decided to make a detour to a nearby viewpoint along the trail for Mt Zukko. After a short walk on a curving level road between woods and fields, I arrived at “Hatake no Tenbodai” (畑の展望台 meaning “Field Viewpoint”) with a couple of benches and a view of the Western part of the Tanazawa mountain range.

Trail for Mt Yakunimi

Lots of Fallen Trees on the way to Mt Yakunimi

I was pleased to get a view of the remoter peaks of Western Tanzawa, less well-known and harder to access than those of the Eastern half; I could also see the long ridge leading to Mt Mikuni. After a short break, I headed back to the trail for today’s mountain, admiring the first plum blossoms of the season along the way. At 1pm, I turned right, onto a path signposted for the summit; according to the signpost, the road I’d been following up to now also led there, but I preferred to walk on dirt than on asphalt.

Mt Fuji View from the Top of Mt Yakunimi

Mt Fuji and its Winter Snow Cover

I had to walk over, around and even under several fallen tree trunks, adding charm to the otherwise well-maintained path. Beyond a bamboo forest and a series of bamboo steps, I reached the top of Mt Yakunimi (八国見山やくにみやま yakunimi-yama, meaning “8-country view”). Almost completely in the trees, a gap perfectly placed on the west side allowed for a majestic view of snow-covered Fuji, a secret viewing spot of Japan’s iconic volcano. I sat on one of the bamboo benches for lunch with a view. Shortly after 1h30, I resumed my hike, heading down the west side. Very soon I rejoined the road I’d been on earlier; a little further on, it ended at the top of a newly-built concrete staircase with a wide view to the south.

View South above the Cemetery

View West from near the Cemetery

I was delighted with this unexpected view, the trees having been cleared to make way for a cemetery, a wide grassy expanse near the base of the steps, still mostly free of graves. On the west side, I could see Mt Fuji and the outline of the Hakone mountains; to the south, forested hills stretched all the way to the Shonan coast and Sagami Bay. At the bottom of the steps, I walked a short way along a brand new road before turning left up a shorter concrete staircase; this connected with a footpath that soon joined a country lane heading south.

View of Mt Yakunimi with the Tanzawa Mountains behind

Mt Yakunimi (front left), Mt To (center) & Mt Odake (right)

This part of the hike felt quite adventurous: even though I was walking through fields and woods, the lane I was following was unknown to Google Maps and I had to rely entirely on my hiking app to find my way. Turning around I had a good view of Mt Yakunimi with the Tanzawa mountain range rising in the background. As I rounded a bend with a bamboo grove on my left, I came upon Neo Bandit Base, a campsite in the middle of nowhere with no apparent access, almost as if it were a real bandit hideout. At a fork in the road, I followed the right branch to the top of the campsite, taking me to a viewpoint of the forested hills as they extended southwards.

Country Lane Past Mt Takao

Forested Hills extending South to the Coast

I imagined it’d be a nice place to spend the night, enjoying a view from one’s tent, perched high up on the hillside. I followed the road a little further as it curved around the back of the mountain and soon reached the top of Mt Takao (高尾山 307), a minor mountain lacking a summit marker. It was surrounded by forest so I quickly retraced my steps to the main road. I soon found myself walking through farmland again, with a view of the Soga Hills to the south; along the way, I spotted bunches of white and yellow “suisen“, as well as orange “mikan“, adding colour to the winter landscape. After some descending, I reached a busy road, snaking its way along the base of a valley. After about 20 minutes walking on the sidewalk, I reached a signpost for the Fujimzuka Hiking Trail (富士見塚ハイキングコース) on the right side.

View of the Soga Hills past Mt Takao

Walking through Farmland

I was glad to be walking on a peaceful country lane again, taking me through the Yanagi Village Farm (やまぎ村ファーム). Past a white recycling center, out of place at the edge of the fields, I spotted a signpost for a trail leading into the forest on the left. The leaf-covered path climbed and then dipped into a steep, narrow valley. After crossing a stream over a metal bridge, I turned left, following the water upstream. Past a bamboo grove, I suddenly emerged onto a road. As the 4 o’clock chime sounded, buildings and fields lit golden in the setting sun, I made my way through the shinokubo neighbourhood and soon arrived at Jifuku-ji Temple (地福寺) at the bend of a bypass; beyond, the road climbed a long slope.

Walking through Forest near the End of the Hike

Sunset and Mt Fuji above Matsuda City

I hastened to reach the highest point, the gloom increasing fast shortly before sunset. I passed the entrance of Mishima Shrine (三嶋神社), walking under the overhanging branches of Shinokubo’s chinquapin (篠窪の椎 shinokubo no shii). This species of beech was more than 500 years old and one the 100 famous trees of Kanagawa; its lengthy branches were upheld by a metal frame, creating a natural tunnel over the road. At the top of the slope, I reached Fujimi-zuka (富士見塚), marked by a stone monument, just at the sun was setting behind the Hakone mountains, giving me one final view of Fuji of the day. It was another 30-minute walk down a quiet road to the outskirts of Matsuda city; after passing under the Tomei expressway, I caught a bus for Shin-Matsuda station arriving there around 5pm. After a one hour wait, I boarded the Fuji express for the 70-minute comfortable ride back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Hike

See More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Tobio (234m), Atsugi City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, February 1, 2025

I found this hike, through the low hills at the edge of western Tanzawa, in one of my guidebooks; in addition to a view from the highest point, it also passed by an observation tower, seemingly a characteristic of the area. It was a little on the short side, but looking at maps online, I saw it was possible to extend it northeast and also include one more observation tower.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Hiking in the Tanzawa Mountains 丹沢山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu line limited express to Atsugi, and then board a bus for the Tobio locality, at the southern end of the hills. For the return, I’d catch a bus back to Atsugi near the northern end. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon. I was looking forward to a relaxing winter hike with views of the Tanzawa mountains and the Kanto Plain.

Find Japan Hiking Maps on Japanwilds

Trail at the Start of the Hike (left) Trail past the Tower (right)

Steep Climb before Mt Tobio (left) Road for Mt Hasuge (right)

I sped south under blue skies comfortably seated on the “Romance Car”, arriving at Atsugi a little before 1030. There, I boarded a half-full bus for the half-hour ride to Tobio Danchi. After a short walk through a residential neighbourhood, I reached the start of the hiking trail at 1130 at the top of a long staircase. After following a level trail for a short while, I arrived at Sannosha (山王社), a Shinto Shrine at the edge of the forest with a view of the Kanto Plain on the eastern side.

View of the Kanto Plain from Sansho Shrine

Trail between Sannosha and Konpirasha Shrines

I was delighted to get a view so soon, even only of a flat urbanscape. After quickly checking out the shrine, I continued on my way, and soon arrived at Konpirasha (金毘羅社), another Shinto shrine, this one with a photogenic red “torii” or “Shinto gate”. It was completely in the forest, but a little further along the trail, I came upon the equally photogenic yellow konpirasan Observation Tower (金比羅山展望台 also known as the Mt Tobio Observation Tower).

View Southeast of Kanagawa from the Observation Tower

View Northeast of Tokyo from the Observation Tower

It was one of the tallest observation towers I’d ever been up; unfortunately, bare branches still reached high enough to partly interfere with the view of the Tanzawa mountains on the western side; I could still make out the triangular summit of Mt Oyama, as well as Mt Kyogatake, Mt Bukka and Mt Takatori; on the eastern side was the flat Kanto plain, Tokyo’s skyscrapers lost in the haze. Looking south, I could see the elevated plateau stretching from Shonan Daira to Hadano city. To the north, I could observe the entire length of the hills I’d be hiking today.

View of Western Tanzawa from the Observation Tower

Mt Oyama from the Observation Tower

This was probably the best view of the day, and once satisfied, I headed down the stairs to continue my hike. The trail first went downhill, then became level near a rock mining area, before climbing steeply. Before I could break a sweat, I found myself at the top of Mt Tobio (鳶尾山とびおさん tobio-san), known for its cherry blossoms trees, although in this season the branches were still bare. I had a view once again of the Kanto plain; northwards were the Okutama mountains, the distinctive shape of Mt Odake clearly visible in the far distance. Since it was just past 1pm, I sat on a sunny bench for lunch with a view. Once done, I set off again.

Trail past the Observation Tower

Level Section before Mt Tobio

I followed a level trail surrounded by mixed forest, the most pleasant part of the hike so far, hiding the nearby city for a short while. I eventually reached a paved road at Yanami Pass (やなみ峠), the end of the Mt Tobio Hiking Trail. Here, I turned right onto the road as it descended gently through the forest. Just past a small creek at a bend, I spotted a series of log steps heading steeply up the mountain side. Clouds had covered the entire sky at an astonishing speed bringing a chill to what had been so far a pleasant winter day. I quickly made my way up the steps to warm my chilled body.

Bench at the Top of Mt Tobio

View of the City from Mt Tobio

I was glad to be back on a hiking trail, even for a short while. At 2h30, I arrived at the the top of Mt Hasuge (八菅山 200m) and the Mt Hasuge Observation Tower (八菅山展望台), about half the height of the previous one. The view, only on the east side, was also less spectacular, possibly due to the white cloud cover and lower elevation. After checking out the nearby Hasuge Shrine (八菅神社), I continued northwards, now on a wide, level dirt track, trees on both sides. After a while, I reached a fence on the west side, beyond which I could see a golf course, the Nakatsugawa Country Club.

Trail past Mt Tobio

Tanzawa Mountains beyond the Green

Beyond the green, I could see the dark outline of the Tanzawa mountains under grey clouds. A little further, I reached a road and an electric pylon at the top of the country club. Here, I turned left, descending between the greens, passing the club house and its huge parking lot. At 3h30 I reached the base of the mountain and after a short walk through the countryside, arrived at a bus stop on a busy road. Here and there, I could see the first plum blossoms of the season. A little later, I was on the bus for Atsugi, and at 5pm I boarded the Romance car for the one hour trip back to Tokyo.

Watch a Video of the Mt Tobio Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Shidango (758m) & Mt Take (710m), Matsuda Town, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 11, 2025

I wanted to do another hike in the Tanzawa mountains, winter being the best time to explore the area. Looking through my guidebook, I found a couple of nearby mountains I had yet to climb, along a river valley north of Matsuda station. The summit of the first peak was out of the trees; the second was in the forest, but with a viewpoint below it on the east side. Combining the two, I expected the hike to take about 4 hours, meaning I could leave mid-morning and take advantage of the “Mt Fuji Romancecar”, the only limited express train to stop in Matsuda.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Hiking in the Tanzawa-Oyama Quasi-National Park

丹沢大山国定公園

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu “Fuji-san” limited express from Shinjuku to Matsuda station, and from there, ride a Fujikyu bus to the last stop on the line. For the return, I’d catch the same bus several stops before the end of the line, and then ride the “Fuji-san” back to Tokyo. Apparently Mt Fuji can be seen from both summits, and since the weather was supposed to be sunny all day, I was looking forward to getting a second chance at my first Fuji sighting of 2025.

Find Japan Hiking Maps on Japanwilds

Paved road between Yadoriki and the Wildlife Gate

Powerline Clearing on the Way to Mt Shidango

It was a relaxing ride under light blue skies to Matsuda station. After getting off the train just before noon, I made my way to a bus stop in front of the nearby Shin-Matsuda station. I was surprised to find myself at the back of a line of teenagers, on their way to play a football match in the same place I was headed. Half an hour later, we all got off the bus in Yadoriki (寄). Leaving them to their ball game, I crossed a bridge over the Nakatsu River and followed signs for today’s mountain, past tea fields and up a steep road ending at a wildlife gate at the edge of the forest; beyond it was the start of the hiking trail.

View of Mt Kobo from Mt Shidango

View of Shonan Bay from Mt Shidango

I was glad to be walking through the forest, the cool shade contrasting sharply with the warm sun from moments before; walking up a series of log steps, I soon warmed up again. I soon reached a clearing allowing for the passage of a power line. Beyond it, I resumed my walk under the dark cedars. One hour after setting off, the path suddenly went straight up the mountain side, gnarly tree roots forming natural steps, and just before 2pm, I broke through the trees to reach a small shrine, also the top of Mt Shidango (シダンゴ山しだんごやま shidango-yama), named after a hermit (“sennin“) called Shidagon who lived on this mountain top about 1300 years ago.

View of Mt Shidango on the Way to Mt Take

Fuji Viewing Platform below Mt Take

I was surprised to be the only person on the summit, since other nearby peaks usually have a lot of traffic. On the east side was the long ridgeline starting from Mt Oyama and ending at Mt Kobo, where I’d been one week ago. Directly ahead to the south was Sagami Bay. In between, I could make out the Miura Peninsula, and beyond it in the far distance, the Boso peninsula. On the west side, sandwiched between the next mountain and puffy clouds, I could see the white snows of Mt Fuji. The flat summit had a seating platform so I settled down for a late lunch with a view. At 2h30, I set off down some log steps, again under the cedars, heading westwards, and soon reached a paved road closed to traffic and hugging the mountain side. Here, ignoring a metal staircase heading straight up the opposite slope, I turned left along the road.

Mt Tono & Mt Oyama from near Mt Take

Walking through a Thicket of “Aburachan”

It was nice to walk on a level road for a short while, with views occasionally popping up on the east side through gaps in the vegetation. At 3pm, I reached the start of the trail for today’s second mountain. From this point, all signposts were in double, old wooden ones and newer metallic ones, provided by a local association. I appreciated how they felt the need to have sturdier and more functional signs while at the same time keeping the more fragile original ones. From this point, I also saw many warnings about leeches, as well as small salt containers (attached to most signposts) for their disposal (actively encouraged). I followed a path southwards and soon reached an electric pylon at the base of a steep slope.

The Tanzawa Mountains from the Mt Take Observation Platform

Mt Shidango (front), Mt Hiru (left), Mt Nabewari (middle), Mt Tono (right)

I took a few minutes to enjoy the unexpected view provided by the passage of the powerline. On the east side was Mt Fuji again, perfectly aligned with the next pylon; on the west side was the rounded green top of Mt Shidango. Behind, I could see Mt Tono to its left, and Sannoto to its right; in the far distance, I could just make out the pointy summit of Mt Oyama. After a little more climbing, I reached the top of Mt Take (タケ山たけやま take-yama), another peak without Chinese characters. It was completely in the forest, one ray of sunlight fortuitously lighting up the summit marker (the wooden one). I soon moved on and reached blue skies at the edge of the forest.

Mt Tono (left) & Sannoto (right)

Sannoto (left), Mt Oyama & Mt Kobo (right)

Looking up, I could see the full moon, already high in the sky. Walking a little further, I reached a wide viewpoint on the east side: the Mt Take Fuji Viewing Platform (タケ山富士見台). Looking excitedly to my right, the east side, I could see Mt Fuji now mostly free of clouds but against the sun at this time of the day. To its left, I could see the Hakone mountains, reaching all the way to Sagami Bay. On the west side, I had an excellent view of Sannoto and Mt Odake. To the south, under huge puffy clouds, was Oshima island; beyond, in the far distance, I could make out Toshima and Nijima islands. I took a short break on a bench to enjoy the view, as well as the late afternoon sun, before continuing on my way.

Hadano & Isehara Cities

Descending through “Aburachan” Shrubs

I was now walking inside a thicket of bare shrubs, affectionately called “Aburachan” in Japanese (February spicebush in English). The trail was vanishingly faint under a carpet of dead leaves but fortunately I soon popped into another clearing with another wide view on the east side: the Mt Take Observation Platform (タケ山展望台), where I had the best view of the day. On the west side, I had a spectacular vista of the Tanzawa mountains, from Mt Hiru, its highest point, all the way to Mt Oyama, with the full moon hanging above; Mt Nabewari was also visible, directly behind Mt Shidango. Further south, Hadano and Isehara cities spread out on each side of Mt Kobo. As before, the Shonan Bay, Oshima island and the Hakone mountains could be seen on the south side, only Mt Fuji now missing from the panorama.

Descending under the Cedars

End of the Mt Take Trail

I was once again the only person to enjoy this glorious view, partly because it’s on a local trail but also partly due to the late time of the day. It was nearly 4pm so I set off at a quick pace down a switchback trail, first through another “Aburachan” thicket, coloured orange in the late afternoon light, then through a dark forest of tall cedars. Half an hour later, I reached a small park at the end of the trail, here and there “suisen” (daffodils) in full bloom. From this point, I followed a road along a terraced river. At the confluence with the Nakatsu river, I turned left, and after crossing a bridge, with one last view of a pink-tinged ridgeline on the north side, reached a wooden bus shelter. When the bus arrived, I was reunited with the soccer team from before; luckily I was able to sit, and a little after 5pm, was back at Matsuda station. There, I boarded the Romancecar limited express for the 80-minute ride back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Mt Shidango Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Hijiri (380m), Mt Takatori (556m) & Mt Kobo (235m), Isehara & Hadano Cities, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, January 4, 2025

Like for the last outing of 2024, I needed a straightforward hike close to Tokyo to ensure a smooth start to the new year. I decided to head to the Tanzawa foothills, notorious for its leeches in the warmer months, but pest-free at this time of the year. I had already walked from the top of the Oyama cable car to Mt Takatori, as well as from Mt Kobo to Tsurumaki Onsen. This time, I’d explore the southern ridgeline between Mt Takatori and Mt Kobo. I knew I could get a good view of Mt Fuji past Mt Kobo, and also finish the hike at Manyu no Yu, two reasons for making this the first hike of 2025.

For subscribers, read this Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Hiking in the Tanzawa Mountains 　丹沢山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the local Odakyu line to Isehara station, and then board a local bus for a stop near a city park, a short distance from the trail Entrance. For the return, I could walk from the hot spring to Hadano station, and there, board the Odakyu Limited Express for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon, putting a question mark on my new year rendezvous with Mt Fuji. Still, I was looking forward to exploring new trails in a familiar area.

Find Japan Hiking Maps on Japanwilds

Steps for Mt To (left) Road for Mt Hijiri (right)

Leaving Mt Hijiri (left) Steps up Mt Takatori (right)

It felt quite cold as I stepped off the bus in the midst of a residential neighbourhood of Isehara city, a little before 10am. Thankfully, the sun was high enough to warm me up while I made my way to Tonoyama Park (塔の山公園), a wooded area surrounding a small mountain. After a short climb up a wide path, I reached some benches from where I already had a view of the flat coastal area reaching to Shonan Bay. After a late breakfast I set off at 1030, and soon after, reached the top of Mt To (塔ノ山とうのやま tonoyama 202m, meaning “Mt Tower”), from where I had a view of summit of Mt Ooyama on the north side.

Trail past Mt Nenbutsu (left) Trail for Zenba Pass (right)

Steps past Mt Gongen (left) Steps past Mt Sengen (right)

I continued along the ridgeline, heading down through leafless trees, and soon arrived at a road on the north side of the mountain. I turned right, heading south, past the main park entrance, then turned left, following a sign for Hokokuji Temple, and shortly after, came upon a signpost for today’s next mountain. After a few more turns along back roads, I reached the Mt Hijiri trail entrance (聖峰登山口), another paved road but this one closed to vehicles. After passing through a wildlife gate, I continued straight, ignoring the shortcut on the left side, and a little before noon, reached the top of Mt Hijiri (聖峰ひじりみね hijiri-mine meaning “sacred peak”), also the site of a small Buddhist temple.

View East from Hijiri-mine of the Miura and Boso Peninsulas

View South from Hijiri-mine of Shonan Bay and Shonan-daira

I was delighted to have such a wide view on my first hike of the year. Looking north, I could see the skyscrapers of Yokohama and central Tokyo; eastwards, I could make out the low rounded mountains of the Miura and Boso peninsulas; to the south was the level-topped Shonan-daira with Shonan Bay in the background. While I was admiring the view, a pickup truck pulled up, and a man went to open the temple building, called Hijiri-mine Fudoson (聖峰不動尊), giving myself, and two other people who happened to be there, a chance to peer at the Buddhist altar inside; we even got to touch a small snake statue (2025 is the year of the snake); finally, we each received a paper stamped with its “goshuin“, a red seal proving one’s visit to the place. After carefully placing it inside my pack, I set off again, along a level trail through tall cedars, and soon reached a series of log steps where the ridgeline rose steeply.

Steps Leading to Mt Takatori

View South from below Mt Takatori

I broke a sweat for the first time of the day, only pausing briefly to take in a view that had appeared through a gap in the trees. Looking south, I could see the ridge I’d be following on the next part of the hike; curving northwards was the ridge I’d just ascended, green cedars crowning the top of Mt Hijiri. I reached a junction where the two ridges merged; I turned right, and after a little more climbing, reached the top of Mt Takatori (高取山たかとりやま takatori-yama), also the site of an NTT relay tower. It was surrounded by trees except on the north side, where Mt Oyama’s pyramidal summit fit snuggly between two tree trunks. I retraced my steps to the junction and continued along the south ridge.

View towards Mt Hijiri and its “green crown”

Framed View of Mt Oyama from Mt Takatori

I was surprised by how steep and rocky the trail suddenly became, forcing me to slow my pace. I was relieved when the trail soon became more or less level again, and one hour after leaving Mt Takatori, I arrived at Mt Nenbutsu (念仏山 357m) where there was bench and a view on the south side. The name is a Buddhist term meaning visualizing a Buddha. By now, the clouds had covered the southern half of the sky forcing me to imagine most of the view as well. Since it was nearly 2pm, I had a late lunch break before continuing my way.

Trail between Mt Nenbutsu and Mt Kobo

View of the Tanzawa Mountains from the Fureai no Michi Junction

This was probably the nicest part of the hike, an easy to follow and slightly descending trail through an evergreen forest. At 2h30, I reached Zenba Pass (善場峠), and a little further, I emerged onto a road with a view of the Tanzawa mountains to the north, seemingly still free of snow. I crossed the road and headed up a trail on the other side, now inside Koboyama Park (弘法山公園) and also on the Kanto Fureai no Michi. After a short climb, I reached the top of Mt Kobo (弘法山こうぼうやま koubou-yama), named after Kobo-daishi who is said to have trained in this place (he is also connected to Mt Mitsumine). Since my last visit in April 2016, a viewing platform had been erected on the east side. Like from Mt Hijiri, I had a view of the Shonan coastline, the Miura Peninsula and Shona-daira, but it looked quite different under a cloudy afternoon sky.

Final Steps before the Top of Mt Kobo

Viewing Platform on the East Side of Mt Kobo

I admired the constantly changing patchwork of light and dark patches in the landscape below. On the south side, the bell tower sitting directly in the sun’s path lit golden. I now followed Babamichi road (馬場道) meaning “riding ground”, indeed wide enough for riding a horse, to the next summit, Mt Gongen (権現山ごんげんやま 243m), a flat, grassy area with an observation tower on the east side. From its top, I hoped to finally have a glimpse of Mt Fuji, but those hopes were dashed by the thick, dark clouds massed on the south side. A ray of sunlight managed to squeeze through, illuminating the urban sprawl of Hadano City, providing the proverbial silver lining. On the east side, I could look down on the Soga Hills, a range of low hills stretching from Matsuda town to Kozu station on the Shonan Coast.

Patches of Light and Dark from Mt Kobo

Shonan Coast and Shonan-daira from Mt Kobo

I was surprised to see a few snowflakes fall gently and thought perhaps a snowstorm was on its way; fortunately, there was no follow-up, bits of blue sky still appearing overhead. At 3h30, I headed down steep steps on the south side, leaving the Fureai no Michi as it headed east to connect with my last year’s hike to Mt Takatori. After crossing a road, I passed by Mt Sengen (浅間山せんげんやま 196m). It was more of a shoulder that a summit but what it lacked in prominence was made up by the prominence of its beautiful wood-carved summit marker. On my last visit, the scenery was white from the cherry blossom trees covering the “shoulder”; today it was bathed in yellow from the late afternoon sun.

View of the Soga Hills from Mt Gongen

View from Mt Gongen of Mt Hadano under a Ray of Sun

The final descent of the day was surprisingly pleasant: a switchback trail delightfully easy on tired knees, late afternoon sun shining through evergreen trees, and no one but me on the mountain. Just before 4pm, I reached the trail entrance and a busy road where I turned left. On Kobo bridge across the Kaname River, I had one last look at Mt Kobo, firmly under blue skies now, before heading to the nearby Man-no-yu Hot Spring. I reflected on how most of today’s mountains names are common mountain names in Japan and how unusual it was to find all along one ridgeline. After a satisfying hot spring soak, I walked the final 15 minutes to Hadano station, where I caught the Romance Car limited express for the one hour trip back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Mt Hijiri to Mt Kobo Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Morito River Valley, Hayama Town & Zushi City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, June 22, 2024

I wanted to do a river walk to take advantage of the increased water flow during the rainy season, as experienced on my last outing. I found a suitable river valley cutting the Miura Alps in half. Looking online, I saw that the riverside path, also a popular birdwatching spot, was easy to navigate but the trails leading out of the valley were steep and rough, especially tricky after rain. As it had rained heavily the previous day, I decided to forego a loop hike over the top of Mt Futago (also spelled Mt Futako) on the south side and settle for the less adventurous roundtrip up and down the river valley.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to the trail entrance, I’d drive a rental car from Yokosuka-Chuo Station, 30 minutes from Yokohama station on the Keiyu line so I could skip walking under the midday sun from the nearest bus stop; I’d also be able to have lunch at a soba restaurant on the way. After returning the car, I could ride the train two stops to Hemi station and check out the fireflies at Hotaru no Sato. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon, with temperatures around 27°C; rain was forecast later in the evening. I hoped the cooler climate of the river valley would make for bearable hiking conditions and that the rain would hold off till after my firefly spotting session.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Start of the Morito River Path (left) Flat and Easy to Walk (right)

Cedars Past the Halfway Point (left) View down the Morito River (right)

The sun was already quite warm at 11am as I exited Yokosuka-Chuo station. I found my rental car on other side of Mikasa shopping arcade, and after a short drive, arrived at Wakana at 1230, the parking already nearly full. After a delicious lunch of fresh handmade soba and crispy tempura, I drove a short distance to Hayama station, a roadside station selling local food products, a handy place to park my car. After getting ready, I set off at 2h30 as thin clouds raced across the sky, and reached a gate marking the entrance of the Morito river forest path (森戸川林道 moritogawa-rindo) shortly after.

Walking Under Sun Rays (left) and Next to Running Water (right)

River Crossing (left) and River Walking (right) Past the End of the Forest Path

I was stunned by the rapid transition from the countryside to a scenery reminding me of the rainforest. The abundant vegetation pushed in on both sides, creating walls of green, and even organic tunnels. At first, I could also deduce the existence of the river from the noise trickling through the thick foliage. At one point I overtook a group of birdwatchers excitedly whispering and pointing out something invisible on some branch; I dared not ask what they were looking at and quickly moved on. A short distance away, it was my turn to spot something exciting: a snake tentatively making its way down a vertical tree trunk (see video below).

Thick Vegetation at the Start of the Morito River Forest Path

Getting a Closer Look at the Morito River

I was mesmerised, almost charmed, by this unexpected sight. The group of birdwatchers caught up but couldn’t say what the snake was called, claiming it was outside their area of expertise. A little further on, I dived down a side path leading to a rocky beach, giving me my first good look at Morito River. It seemed remarkably wide, originating from such a low-altitude range of hills, although I surmised it was temporary and caused by the recent start of the rainy season. I returned to the main trail, and after overtaking smaller and smaller groups of birdwatchers, spotted an overhead bridge through the tree branches, marking the halfway point of the Moritogawa Rindo.

Fallen Tree Spanning the Morito River and Forest Path

Overhead Road Spanning the Morito River Valley

I was impressed by this striking structure, more reminiscent of ancient jungle ruins than modern infrastructure; in fact I had driven over this very bridge on my way to the hike. After passing under it, I entered a more open forest of cedars and ferns, giving me an uninterrupted view down a straight section of the river. I could also see blue sky above the treetops; fortunately, the valley remained cool in the shade and next to running water. After walking down an avenue of towering cedars, I reentered lower and denser forest. For a brief while, the path became one with a brooklet before going their own way. At 4pm, I arrived at a clearing at the end of the Moritogawa Rindo and continued straight, following the signs for the Futagoyama Hiking Trail (二子山ハイキングコース), one of the three rugged trails leading out of the valley.

Viewpoint of Morito River

Ducking under a Tilting Tree

The path disappeared into the river almost at once, although it seemed possible to walk along the rocky banks in the drier months. The water wasn’t even ankle deep but I decided this was the right moment to head back. I picked up the pace but still took time to stop and admire some fantastically shaped tree trunks and a couple of ephemeral waterfalls. The snake had completed its descent meaning it was now slithering out of sight through the undergrowth. At 5pm I passed through the gate and a little later was back at my car. I rewarded myself with a soft ice from Hayama Station before driving back.

Still lots of Water on the Upper Section of Morito River

A Tame Path through Wild Vegetation

Night had already fallen as I got off the train at Hemi station a little after 7pm. After a 15 minute walk, I reached Firefly Village (Hotaru no Sato ホタルの里), the many signposts along the way making it easy to find even in the dark. A small crowd of people had already gathered along the riverside, mostly shadows in the darkest spots under the trees. At 7h30, the first pinpoint of light magically appeared above our heads. Gradually more and more bright spots appeared, flying in zigzag, finding and missing each other. As I ventured further up the river, away from the town lights, I was able to spot more and more fireflies. At the same time the grassy path became treacherous in the pitch-black darkness and I eventually retreated to safer grounds. At 8pm, I headed back to the station satisfied to have seen one of nature’s wonders.

Watch a Video of the Morito River Valley Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Ogusu (241m), Yokotsuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, June 1, 2024 [Shonan International Village Route]

I wanted to do some more nearby, low-altitude hiking before the hot and humid weather forced me to travel far and high. Looking at my new Miura Peninsula hiking map, I decided to revisit Mt Ogusu: this time I’d start from Hemi station on the northeast side, and finish at Shonan Kokusai Village on the northwest side; on the way, I could pass by Anjin-Miura’s grave in Tsukayama Park, first visited in February 2019. I could also see the view from the Mt Ogusu observation tower, hopefully open this time.

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to my starting point, I would ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Yokohama, and there change to the local Keiyu line. For the return, I could ride a bus to Shiori station, the next stop from Hemi station. Although, the year’s first typhoon had hit the area the previous day, Saturday’s weather was supposed to be mostly sunny with temperatures in the mid-twenties. I wondered how comfortable hiking in this season would be, but was looking forward to getting some more views of the Miura Peninsula.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Start of the Hike (left) Lots of Water after the Typhoon (right)

Path near the top (left) and base (right) of Tsukayama Park

It was a beautiful spring day as I got off the train at Hemi station at 10am. As I made my way through the town, I noticed food stalls lining the main street, a sure sign a festival was taking place this weekend. I stopped by Jodoji Temple, a peaceful place with a bench; apparently a small Buddha statue belonging to Anjin-Miura is kept there but sadly not on display.

Walking next to the Bamboo (left) Path up Mt Ogusu (right)

Walking down the steps (left) Near the Base of Mt Ogusu (right)

I could hear festival music playing in the background as I prepared for my hike. I set off at 11am and first made a small detour by “Hotaru no Sato” (Firefly village). It was too early in the day to see any fireflies but I discovered a charming little river valley filled with birdsong; although a path led directly to Tsukayama Park (塚山公園), I decided to head back and follow the official route, and at noon, arrived at the observation deck (見晴台) at the top of the park.

Jodoji Temple near Hemi Station

View towards “Firefly Village” on the way to Tsukayama Park

I could see the buildings of Yokotsuka City on the west side, and beyond, Tokyo Bay and the Boso peninsula; to the north, I could see the Kamakura Alps. From the nearby Fujimidai observation deck (富士見台) I could see the Miura Alps, although Mt Fuji was hiding today; overhead, cirrus clouds spread across the sky. I took a short break on a bench at Kashimadai (鹿島台), the third and last view point before heading down “Ishidatami” or Flagstone path (石畳道) on the other side. True to its name, I had to be careful not to slip on the smooth stones underfoot, still wet from yesterday’s rain.

View of Yokotsuka City with Hydrangeas in the foreground

The Miura Alps from Fujimidai in Tsukayama Park

I was surprised to see a small stream running alongside the path, its temporary existence due to the previous night’s heavy rains. I left the park behind and followed a busy road southwards, soon reaching the entrance of another trail. After a short, steep climb, I reached the top of a narrow, up and down ridge. Although there were few views, I was glad to be in the shade during the hottest time of day. I soon passed the minor summit of Mt Gongen (権現山 138m), devoid of a summit marker and a view, so I continued without a break, now heading down.

View towards Yokohama from Tsukayama Park

View of Tokyo Bay from Kashimadai in Tsukayama Park

I had to fray myself a passage through the vegetation and was relieved upon reaching more open forest at the base of the hill. Suddenly, the path turned into a small stream and the sound of croaking could be heard under the tall cedars. I followed the water as it left the trail and ended in a large pond. The frogs lost their voice upon my arrival and stayed quiet even after I left. A few minutes later, I popped onto a road; turning around, I could hardly see the trail entrance. I crossed a busy road and at the top of a slope, reached another trail entrance, equally hard to find. The path hugged the forest on the left side, with fields on the right side.

A Hidden Pond at the base of Mt Gongen

Gazing at the Miura Alps from the top of Mt Ogusu

I was excited to suddenly spot a Japanese Pheasant at a bend in the path. I followed it for a while as it calmly lured me away from its chick. After a short climb, I reached a bridge over the Yokotsuka toll road, the trail continuing on the other side, recrossing the road via a graffiti-covered underground passage. I reached another section of near unpassable overgrown trail before arriving at a paved road at the base of Mt Ogusu. There, I turned left, and then right onto a lovely path along a bamboo grove. I soon reached another road, where I turned left. I was now walking next to a golf course, my path eventually merging with the one from my previous hike. At 4pm I reached the summit of Mt Ogusu.

Second Observation Tower on Mt Ogusu

Mt Ogusu from the Shonan Kokusai Village

I was slightly disappointed to that the observation tower was still closed, and after a short break, headed to the second and lower observation tower for the make-up view. I had to backtrack a little to reach the entrance of the Shonan Kokusai Village Trail (湘南国際村コース), with steps to help with the steeper parts. At 4h30, I reached a paved road at the edge of the forest, once again bordering the golf course. As I followed it up and down a pass, I had good views of today’s mountain, the second observation tower shining in the late afternoon sun. I arrived at Shonan Kokusai Village a little before 5pm, where I caught a bus for the short ride back to Shiori station.

Watch a Video of the Mt Ogusu Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Kinugasa (134m) & Mt Ogusu (241m), Yokotsuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, April 13, 2024

I wanted to do another hike using the newly published Miura/Boso hiking map. Looking over the Miura section, I found a new peak to climb on the Tokyo Bay side. It was a little short but it seemed possible to continue along a hiking trail and go up the back side of Mt Ogusu (climbed in winter 2021). From the top, I would head down the main trail, ending on the Sagami bay side of the peninsula. It would be my first time to hike in this area in the spring and I hoped to catch the last cherry blossoms of the season

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience and the latest updates

Steps going up (left) and down (right) in Kinugasa-yama Park

Connecting Path to Mt Ogusu (left) Alternative Trail up Mt Ogusu (right)

Hiking on the Miura Peninsula 三浦半島

To get to the start, I would take the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Zushi, and then ride the Yokotsuka line a few stops to Kinugasa station, a short distance on foot from the trailhead. For the return, I could catch one of the many buses for Zushi station, my only concern being the heavy weekend traffic around Hayama Town. The weather was supposed to be sunny most of the day and cooler near the ocean than on the mainland. Since each peak had its own observatory, I was looking forward to getting some good views of the Miura peninsula.

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi 関東ふれあいの道

Rear Side Ridge (left) and Front Side Ridge (right) on Mt Ogusu

Walking in the Afternoon Sun (left) and along the River (right)

It was a fine spring day as I got off the train at Kinugasa Station around 10am. After a stroll through a shopping arcade, I reached Kinugasa-yama Park (衣笠山公園) and the start of the trail at 1030. Almost at once, I found myself walking through beautiful nature, no other hikers in sight. I soon arrived at a stone staircase where I turned left. At the top, I turned left again, now walking up a paved road, leading to a flat open space at the top of Mt Kinugasa (衣笠山きぬがさやま kinugasa-yama). The view from the observation deck was partially hidden by cherry blossoms trees, so I quickly moved on to a taller observation tower a few minutes away.

Walking through the lower half of Kinugasa-yama Park

Walking through the higher half of Kinugasa-yama Park

I was impressed by the view from the top of this low mountain, as I could see most of the peaks of the Miura peninsula, Tokyo Bay and the western coast of the Boso peninsula. To the south, I spotted Mt Hodai and Mt Miura-Fuji past the treetops; directly west was Mt Ogusu, the highest peak in the area; finally, the Miura Alps extended across the neck of the peninsula on the north side. Cherry blossom trees surrounded the tower but were already past their prime. I continued my hike, walking down log steps sprinkled with fallen petals. Just before noon, I reached a busy road at the base of the mountain. I followed it for a short while but soon left it to follow a lane up a steep slope. Just beyond a staircase leading to a shrine, the lane ended at another hiking trail.

View of Mt Ogusu from the top of Mt Kinugasa

View of Tokyo Bay from the top of Mt Kinugasa

I was delighted to be back on a hiking path, surrounded by the forest and free of people. The trail was mostly level, a fallen tree trunk providing the only difficulty. Shortly before 1pm, I reached a bridge over a highway, picking up the trail on the other side. After a short climb, I arrived at a road free of traffic leading to a recycling center. After observing a couple of cats strut around, I made my way up some steps leading to the next part of the hiking route. After some easy climbing along a well-maintained path, I reached a ridgeline at 1h30, and continued straight, ignoring a trail on the left side.

Irises lining the path

Many steps up Mt Ogusu

The many iris flowers lining both sides of the path made this the most pleasant part of the hike. The forest retreated to allow for a power line, revealing blue skies splashed with white cirrus clouds. Very soon I arrived at the junction of my previous hike here. From this point, I followed a series of log steps through the new spring green all the way to the top of Mt Ogusu (大楠山おおぐすやま oogusu-yama), a Kanto 100 famous mountain. Since it was 2h30, I sat down for a late lunch. The main observation tower was closed but another one a short distance way provided good views of the Miura Peninsual to the south and the Miura Alps to the north.

View of Mt Hodai and Mt Miura-Fuji from the top of Mt Ogusu

“Half Blossoms” and “half Miura” from the the Observation Tower

I was glad to see more cherry blossoms trees around the tower, half the petals still hanging on. I now headed down the Maedabashi route (前田橋コース), also the Kanto Fureai no Michi, passing relatively few people on the way. Half an hour later, I arrived at the start of the Maedagawa Promenade (前田川遊歩道). I had done it twice before but the water level had been lower than now, and it was a lot more impressive in this season. I wanted to linger to enjoy the sound of rushing water but I had a bus to catch. By 4pm, I was on my way back to Zushi station, reached after a slight delay due to the expected traffic jams. There, I boarded the Shonan-Shinjuku line for the one hour ride back to Tokyo.

Watch a video of the Mt Ogusu Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Takatori (219m), Oiso Town, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, February 3, 2024

I was looking for a suitable winter hike in the Tokyo area. While checking my map, I spotted a section of the Kanagawa Kanto Fureai no Michi I had yet to explore, connecting the Tokaido line with the Odakyu line. Although it mostly followed back roads through the countryside, the first section was up a minor peak on a forested plateau, from the top of which I hoped to get some views.

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi

I would ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line from Ikebukuro to Ninomiya station on the Shonan coast, and then take a bus to a stop near the start of the trail, skipping a one-hour section through Oiso Town. For the return, I could catch a bus for Hadano Station near Kaname River, since I had already done the next section for Mt Koubou, and then ride the Romancecar limited express back to Tokyo. If had time, I’d be able to get a hot bath at the nearby Manyo-no-Yu.

関東ふれあいの道

The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning and overcast in the early afternoon; although it was a short hike, I decided to get an early start to take advantage of the good weather. I was looking forward to a relaxing hike through a new area close to home.

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience

Bamboo forest (left) and steep slope (right) at the start of the hike

Walking on the top ridge (left) and up the steps (right)

Walking down to (left) and up from Kirifuri Keiryu (right)

It was a 90-minute train ride under clear blue skies to Ninomiya station where I boarded a bus for the short ride to Higashi-no-Ike (東の池), a reedy pond with a shrine on an islet. After getting ready, I located a sign for the Fureai no Michi and set off, a little before 11am, through a residential neighbourhood. Past a bamboo forest, the road rose sharply, and after a few minutes of climbing under tall cedars, I reached the ridge top, where I turned right, onto a level hiking path through the forest.

Clearing at the Top of Kirifuri Keiryu

View East towards Yokohama and the Miura Peninsula

I was amazed to be on such a lovely trail, reminding me of Kamakura, but minus the crowds. It was mostly in the trees but I did get a glimpse of Hakone through a gap on the west side. At 1130, I passed under a stone Shinto gate and made my way up a series of log steps, at the top of which I arrived at Takatori Shrine (鷹取神社). A little beyond, and slightly off the trail on the left side, was the top of Mt Takatori (鷹取山たかとりやま) surrounded by forest. I couldn’t see a summit marker but my GPS confirmed the spot. I sat down on a sunny tree trunk for a short break.

View North from Yurugi Hill

Tanzawa from Yurugi Hill

I basked in the sunshine and listened to the birdsong, before setting off again at noon, down a dirt road leading to a turn-off for Kirifuri Stream (霧降渓り流 kirifuri-keiryu). I decided to check it out since according to my map, I could do a short loop along a river valley (the full trail continues to Shonan-Daira). I soon arrived at a clearing around an electric pylon, and was rewarded with a view of Yokohama and the Miura peninsula to the east. A little further, I turned righ, descending steeply into the valley, and then took another path on the left, leading up to some fields on top of Yurugi Hill (ゆるぎの丘 yurugi-no-oka).

Mt Oyama and Plum Blossoms from the Fureai no Michi

Mt Nabewari (left), Mt Tono (middle) and Mt Oyama (right)

It was the best view of the day, and would have made a great lunch spot if there had been a place to sit. To the north, I could see the Tanzawa mountains, with the triangular top of Mt Oyama at the very right. I turned left again and soon arrived back at the clearing, thus completing my loop. Minutes later, I was back on the Fureai no Michi. From then on, I followed peaceful back roads meandering through the countryside. I had occasional views of the Tanzawa range, including one from a roadside bench where I had lunch at 1h30. The clouds had started to roll in from the west, and although, they hadn’t yet reached the sun, I quickened my pace.

View of the Tanzawa Range Extending Westwards

Bright Red Shinto Gates at Myoen-ji Temple

I was surprised by the many plum trees in full bloom, very early for the season. At 2pm I reached the photogenic Myoen-ji Temple (妙圓寺) with its flapping banners and bright red “torii” catching the last of the sun. Before moving on, I ventured into a small cave within the temple grounds and followed an underground passage till it became too low to continue. After passing Daijoin Temple, with its huge plum tree in full flower, I arrived at Nanpei Bridge (南平橋) at 3pm, where I caught one of the frequent buses for Hadano station. I had enough time for the hot spring bath, so I was refreshed for the one-hour trip back to Shinjuku.

Watch a Video of the Mt Takatori Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on Youtube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

Mt Sendoji (583m) & Mt Sankaku (515m), Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, December 30, 2023

For subscribers, read this Blog Post on Hiking Around Tokyo for a better viewing experience

This hike requires a GPS device

I always find it tricky to select the final hike of the year since many bus services switch to special year-end schedules. This year was doubly difficult due to the unusually short “shogatsu” (Japanese new year holidays), meaning the day of my hike coincided with the first day of the holidays, and limited express trains were fully booked. Inspired by my previous outing, I decided to head to Hashimoto again, and ride the bus to the end of the line, near the western edge of Tsukui lake, my first time to visit that area. Looking at my map, I saw I could hike in the Tanzawa mountains, last visited nearly 3 years ago. I would summit a couple of minor peaks, and finish at a view point on Lake Miyagase, from where I could catch a different bus back to Hashimoto. The weather was supposed to be sunny and mild, as it usually is at this time of the year. I was looking forward to exploring a new area on my last hike of 2023.

Hiking in the Tanzawa Mountains 丹沢山地

Heading up to Sagami Forest (left) Hiking between Mt Sendoji and Mt Baba (right)

Walking down from Mt Sankaku

The express train was mostly empty for the one-hour ride to Hashimoto Station. I had a quick breakfast at the McDonalds near the south exit before heading to the north exit where I hopped on the bus for Mikage (三ヶ木), getting there around 10am. I dropped by a supermarket conveniently located on the way to the trail entrance. After buying supplies for the day, I continued along a busy road, and at 11am, turned right onto a road thankfully closed to traffic, but not hikers, that led up the mountain side and into the forest; it wasn’t signposted and it was only thanks to my phone GPS I managed to locate it.

Start of the hike in Sagami Forest

First view north towards the Mt Takao area

I was delighted to be walking on a forest road through beautiful, sunny forest, away from the noisy road. After a couple of switchbacks, I had a view on the north side of the mountains on the other side of Sagami river. I could see the spot where I had been hiking the previous week. A little later, I had a view on the east side of Mt Shiroyama. A little before noon, I arrived at signboard for Forest 21 “Sagami no Mori” (Sagami’s Forest) and the start of the hiking trail. I took the left branch, the valley trail (谷道), along the mountain side, and very soon, I had some good views on the east side.

Road to Forest 21 Sagami’s Forest

A solitary hike on a sunny day

It was like gazing into a hidden valley, the Tokyo’s tall buildings almost hidden by the hilltops; as the noon chime rang out, I was reminded how close I was to civilisation. At the one point, all signs of the trail vanished, and I had to rely on my phone GPS to find my way back to the ridgeline. The trail remained faint, and I was completely dependent on my GPS signal and the occasional pink ribbon strip. I was moving through beautiful, mixed forest, and at times, it was easy to forget I was only a stone’s throw from Tokyo’s urban jungle. At the top of a short climb, I arrived at the summit of Mt Sendoji (仙洞寺山せんどうじさん sendojisan), completely within the trees.

View of a Hidden Valley from Sagami’s Forest

Steep Climb up to Mt Baba

I was glad the summit was bathed in sunlight, the trees growing less thick and allowing for a patch of open sky. Since it was past 1230, I sat down for lunch. I set off again after 1pm, and found the trail to be just as hard to follow as before. After a steep descent, I reached a forest road, beyond which was a proper path. After another steep descent, the trail curved to the right, and started to climb gradually. I was completely surrounded by nature and found it hard to believe I wasn’t deep inside some national park. Suddenly, I reached the base of a steep series of steps, at the top of which was a small shrine, the top of Mt Baba (ババ山ばばやま babayama). Since I couldn’t see a summit marker, nor a view, I quickly moved on, and after a short downhill section, arrived at an electric pylon.

Arriving at the top of Mt Baba

Heading back from Mt Sankaku

I continued up a sunny, narrow ridge, the higher peaks of the Tanzawa mountains visible through the leafless trees. At 2pm, I arrived at the top of Mt Sankaku (三角山さんかくやま sankakuyama), also the location of a TV relay station. Once again, it was surrounded by trees, so I soon headed back to the pylon, where I took a path heading down on the west side. After passing under some tall cedars at the base of the mountain, I emerged onto a road. I then walked through the countryside for half an hour before reaching Toribara Park (鳥居原園地) at the edge of Miyagase Lake (宮ケ瀬湖) at 3h30. After enjoying the late afternoon views of the lake and the Tanzawa mountains, I boarded a bus for the 30-minute ride back to Hashimoto station.

Looking back at Mt Sankaku (left) and Mt Sendoji (right)

View of Miyagase Lake from Toribara Park

I was entirely satisfied with my final hike of the year. Thanks to my phone GPS, I was able to save time looking for the trail. It’s a shame it isn’t better maintained, since it’s a beautiful patch of nature, wedged between two populated areas; perhaps the point is to keep it that way. It took a good five hours from start to finish, four of which were on forest roads, hiking trails and just walking through the forest. I saw no one else but that could be due to the year-end holiday period. In the future, I’d like to return to the end of the hike and continue the following the trail westwards into the Tanzawa mountains.