December 2024 – Hiking Around Tokyo

I wanted to do another hike in the mountains of Yamanashi, as well as get some more views of Mt Fuji; I also wanted to go driving one last time before the mountains roads closed for winter. I decided to head to the southwestern Oku-Chichibu mountains, last visited in 2017 when I climbed Mt Kaya. Last year, I had planned, but not done, a hike in that area, a roundtrip to two neighbouring peaks of the Kurofuji volcanic group. They were featured in my guidebook but with a different route up the northeast side that was no longer used; for my hike, I’d go up and down the same route via Hatcho Pass on the southwest side.

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To get to the trail entrance, I’d take the Chuo line limited express to Kofu, and then, since Kai city buses only run to the area on weekdays, drive a share car to a parking spot near Kurofuji Farm. The weather was supposed to be sunny with mild temperatures, usual for this time of the year. As to the mountain name Kurofuji (“black Fuji”), apparently when seen from its neighbour peak on the north side, it looks like a dark version of Mt Fuji (also visible in the background). I was looking forward to seeing this effect with my own eyes, as well as enjoying the autumn colours, which I hoped would now be at their best.

Hiking in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park

秩父多摩甲斐国立公園

Autumn Colours and Blue Sky just below Hacho-toge

Larches and Grass on the way to Kurofuji

It was a perfect autumn day as I arrived in Kofu around 10am. After locating my share car, it took about an hour to drive to the small parking area near the start of the hike. After getting ready, I finally set off just as the noon chime was ringing. After walking past Kurofuji Farm, I left the paved road for a signposted trail on the right. I soon found myself walking up a narrow valley along a mountain stream, the rushing sound of water soothing the mind. At one point, I saw a white deer skull on the ground. After crossing the stream on a flimsy log bridge, I passed a couple of hikers heading down, the only other people I saw on today’s hike.

View of Mt Fuji from the South Side of Kurofuji

Southwest Oku-Chichibu with Mt Obina (center)

I was surprised by how quickly the trail became hard to follow; even with my phone GPS, I found myself off the path a couple of times. Fortunately, since it simply followed the valley all the way to the top of this ancient crater, I was soon back on track. About an hour after setting off, I reached a steeper, rockier area, a sure sign that was nearing the rim. The beautiful scenery of yellow leaves with a blue sky background slowed me down a bit, but at 1h30, I reached Hacho-toge (八丁峠) where I turned right along a well-trodden and gently rising trail, mixed forest giving way to tall larches.

Mt Magari (left), Yatsugatake (back) & Mt Masugata (right) from Kurofuji

Mt Mizugaki (left), Mt Kinpu (center) & Mt Kokushi (right) from Kurofuji

This was perhaps the nicest part of the hike, the evenly spaced larches and grassy terrain giving an impression of wide open space, even though the trees had already lost most of their needles. I was reminded that I was now inside the western edge of the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. After a short while, I was again climbing through bare trees and over rocky terrain, and at 2pm, reached the summit of Kurofuji (黒富士くろふじ), a hundred famous mountain of Yamanashi. I could see the South Alps and Mt Kaya to the southwest, but the other directions were blocked by trees. My guidebook mentioned that a better view could be had just below the highest point so I headed down a path on the south side leading to a superb viewpoint at the top of a cliff.

Kurofuji (left) and Mt Fuji (right) from the trail for Mt Masugata

Yatsugatake (left) and Mt Meshimori (right) from Mt Masugata

I carefully sat on a rocky ledge with a small, gnarly pine at my back, keeping a safe distance from the edge. From my perch, I could see Mt Fuji directly ahead; against the sun, it appeared as a black triangle, and I couldn’t tell whether the first snow of the season had fallen. To its right, were the Central Alps, and to its left were the Oku-Chichibu mountains, Mt Obina being the sole recognisable peak. After a short lunch break, I retraced my steps, and followed the summit ridge to another breathtaking viewpoint on the north side, on top of some large rocks protruding from the mountain side.

Mt Kinpu from Mt Masugata

The Oku-Chichibu Mountains from the top of Mt Masugata

Standing on top of one of these rocks, I was astounded by the golden colours covering the mountains sides directly below, patches of grey indicating that the leaves were already past their peak at this elevation. I could see Mt Magari and Mt Marugata, and between them, Yastugatake in the far distance. Turning to the north side, I could see some of the highest summits of the Oku-Chichibu mountains: Mt Mizugaki, Mt Kinpu and Mt Kokushi. Amazingly, the area in-between has almost no hiking trails and few access roads, one of the few wild places in the Tokyo area. I was starting to fall behind schedule so I pulled myself away from the view and headed back the same way; I soon arrived at the intersection for today’s next peak, where I turned right. As I walked up the grassy path, Kurofuji suddenly came into view on the right side.

“Black Fuji” view from the Summit of Mt Masugata

Kurofuji with Mt Fuji in the background

I was excited to already have a view of “black fuji” even before reaching the second summit; viewed from the north side, the conical shape of Kurofuji was nearly entirely in the shade. To its right, I could see the top of Mt Fuji popping up through the clouds; in foreground, golden “susuki” swayed in the light breeze. I continued at a fast pace up the switchback trail, and at 3pm, reached the base of a huge rock. A quick scramble up some natural steps brought me to the narrow, flat top of Mt Masugata (升形山ますがたやま masugata-yama), the name meaning shaped like a “masu” (a square wooden box used for drinking sake), an apt description for this summit.

Late Afternoon Light just before Hatcho Pass

Late Atfernoon Light just after Hatcho Pass

I was glad to have the summit to myself, as there wasn’t much space on top of the “masu“; I could also enjoy the breathtaking 360° view in perfect silence. To the west was Mt Yatsugatake; on the north side, I could see Mt Kinpu; and finally, turning southwards, was the view of Kurofuji with Mt Fuji in the background. It was only partially dark; perhaps a different time or season is needed for a full blackout. It was now 3h30, so I carefully got off the “masu” and quickly made my way back to Hacho Pass and then down the steep valley. The Autumn colours were even more beautiful in the late afternoon light and the trail was easier to follow on the return even after the sun had dipped below the ridgeline. Shortly before recrossing the stream, I spotted a white antler on the ground, to complement the skull I saw on the way up. At 4h30 I was back at my car, and by 5pm, I was on my way back to Kofu city just as it was getting dark.

Watch a video of the Kurofuji Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

I had wanted to visit Shibireko Lake ever since I’d found out about it from the Yuru Camp anime. Looking online, I recently found out that it was possible to hike from the lake to a nearby mountain with a view of Mt Fuji. Along the way, it was also possible to make a short detour to another summit with a view of the Kofu basin. Outside these two viewpoints, the hike was mostly in the trees, perfect for seeing the autumn leaves, hopefully at their peak. The hike, up and down the same way, was on the short side, ideal for the shorter days of Autumn.

Hiking in the Misaka Mountains 御坂山地

To reach the start of the trail, I’d ride the Chuo line Limited Express to Kofu, and then drive the rest of the way, as there is no public transport to the lake. The weather was supposed to be sunny all day with temperatures warm for the season. I was looking forward to seeing Mt Fuji with new snow on its summit and hoped that, although the lake was no longer a secret due to the recent camping boom, the trail would still be relatively unknown.

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Get a Map of the Mt Hiru Hike

This map was developed for Japanwilds with the Hokkaido Cartographer

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Minami Alps (left), Yatsugatake (back center) & Kofu Basin from Mt Obatake

Yatsugatake (left), Oku-Chichibu (right) & Kofu Basin from Obatakeyama

It was a beautiful Autumn day as I rode the limited express, arriving at Kofu station at 1030. By 11am, I was driving south, towards the South Alps, still completely free of snow. Shortly after noon, I pulled into the large parking lot belonging to Sumeiso Lodge, also available to day-trippers for a small fee; I had passed almost no cars during the drive up the two-lane Shibireko-koen line, a good sign for today’s hike. After getting ready, I set off at 1230, walking up the mountain side and away from the lake, hidden from view by the thick forest.

Narrow Section of the Hirugatake Trail

Sun Shining through the Trees Halfway to Hirugatake

It was a steep but short climb to the ridgetop, where I turned left along a level trail. At 1pm, I emerged onto the flat top of Mt Obatake (大畠山 oobatakeyama), with a bench and a view on the west side, as well as a telecommunication tower. I could see the South Alps, Yatsugatake and the Oku-Chichibu mountains; directly below, was the triangular-shaped Kofu Basin (kofu-bonchi), the urban sprawl running right up to the base of the mountains and the blue ribbon of the Kamanashi river splitting it in half. I settled on the summit bench for a thirty-minute lunch break then retraced my steps to the ridgetop intersection.

Snowless Fuji from the Summit of Hirugatake

Mt Fuji (left), Mt Ryu (center) & Mt Kenashi (right) from Hirugatake

I was relieved to see that this trail was still a well-kept secret as I saw few hikers along the way. The trail alternated between level and gently climbing sections; a couple of narrow traverses required careful walking. The Autumn leaves were still turning at this elevation but the surrounding forest was beautiful. A little after 2pm, I reached Nishikata Pass (西肩峠) where I turned left for the final climb to the summit. At 2h30, I was standing at the top of Mt Hiru (蛾ヶ岳ひるがたけ hirugatake meaning Mt Moth), a Yamanashi 100-famous mountain. Although the name sounds the same as the highest peak of the Tanzawa mountains, it’s written with a different Chinese character.

Closeup of Mt Fuji from Hirugatake

Autumn Colours at their Peak around the Top of Hirugatake

I was stunned to see that Mt Fuji still was completely snowless. However, its perfect cone on a blue sky background was beautiful even without its trademark white cap. To its right, I could see Mt Ryu and the long summit ridge of Mt Kenashi, with splendid autumn colours in the foreground; on the west side, I had a view similar to the one from the previous peak, but from a higher vantage point; I could also see the ridgeline I had walked between today’s two mountains. After a short break on the summit bench, enjoying the gorgeous view all by myself, I headed back down the same way.

Mt Kenashi from Hirugatake

The Minami Alps from Hirugatake

I enjoyed the solitary stroll back through the forest, the scenery looking slightly different in reverse. Through gaps in the trees, I had views of the Misaka mountains on the north side. One hour later, I was back at the nearly empty parking lot. Since I still had half an hour before sunset, I decided to quickly walk around Shibireko Lake (四尾連湖) before heading back.

Walking back to Shibireko Lake

Walking around Shibireko Lake

I was surprised to see that the campsite extended around the entire south half of the lake; some spots almost felt like wild camping. Even at dusk, people were still rowing boats across the lake. Half an hour later, I had completed my tour. After checking out the Yuru Camp related exhibits inside Sumeiso Lodge, I hurried back to my share car for the one hour drive back to Kofu station. There I boarded the limited express for the 90-minute ride back to Tokyo.

Shibireko Sumeiso Lodge

After Sunset at Shibireko Lake

The entire hike, including the lake loop, took about 4 hours. The view from the top of Mt Hiru was much better than I had imagined and deserves a place among the best mountain tops to view Mt Fuji. The hiking trail extends west from Mt Obatake and east from Mt Hiru and I hope to explore them one day in the future. This was my third Yuru Camp inspired hike, the first two being Takapotchi Highland and Hottarakashi Onsen. This was also my first proper sighting of Mt Fuji since Mt Sasagogangaharasuri in January of this year, and hopefully not the last one!