February 2024 – Hiking Around Tokyo

Haga-Fuji (271m), Motegi Town, Tochigi Prefecture, Saturday, February 10, 2024

I wanted to explore more of the Kanto Fureai no Michi, its trails being well-suited for winter hiking. I decided to do a section between Motegi and Nanai stations in eastern Tochigi, mostly following back lanes through an area of low hills, at the southern edge of the Abukuma Plateau. It had snowed heavily a few days before so this felt like a safe choice. At the halfway point was another local “Fuji”, with supposedly good views from the top, although I hoped no snow would be left on the steep climb.

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi

関東ふれあいの道

I would ride the Utsunomiya line to Oyama Station, and then the Mito line to Shimodate station. There, I would transfer to the private Mooka line (pronounced “mo-oka”) and get off at the last station. For the return, I could get catch a bus for Utsunomiya, and then ride the shinkansen back to Tokyo. The weather was supposed to be sunny and cold, but not freezing. I was looking forward to a relaxing station to station hike and getting some new views in a little-visited area.

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Heading up (left) and down Haga-Fuji (right)

A Well-Maintained Trail on Haga-Fuji (left) with Views through the Trees (right)

It was a beautiful blue-sky day as I stepped off the train at Motegi just before 11am. I was surprised by how few people visit this charming riverside town in the hills, although it might be due to the winter season. I set off half an hour later and followed a promenade along the Sakasa river. On the way, I passed the quiet “Cat Store” (猫の雑貨屋), a small shop and cafe selling cat-related goods, and the busy “Motegi Roadside station” (道の駅もてぎ), from where I got a glimpse of the steam locomotive (SL) that runs on the Moka line on weekends.

Promenade along the Sakasa River

Walking through the Tochigi Countryside

It was a day for sights in the sky: white herons taking off above the river, wispy cirrus clouds moving quickly overhead, a helicopter whizzing by, power lines spanning the sky between pylons, and even a couple of circling hang-gliders which I first mistook for birds of prey. After a short bit on a busy road, I crossed a bridge and left the Sakasa river for a short detour by Anraku-ji temple (安楽寺) and its 600-year-old Zelkova tree (“keyaki“), from where I had my first glimpse of the conical top of today’s mountain. Thirty minutes later, I passed some terraced rice fields, one of the 100 rural landscapes of Tochigi, still covered in snow. Soon after, I reached the entrance to the hiking trail on the left.

Mt Yakimori & Mt Keisoku from near the top of Haga-Fuji

Mt Amamaki & Mt Takamine from halfway down Haga-Fuji

I was surprised to see the path covered in snow, with only one set of footsteps. Luckily, once it entered the forest, the snow all but disappeared. After a steep but short climb through cedars, I reached a dirt track with a wide view on the east side. I could see Mt Yakemori and Mt Keisoku, as well as the other Mt Fuji in the area. One final effort brought me to the highest point of Haga-Fuji (芳賀富士はがふじ), a 100 famous mountain of Tochigi. The view was mostly blocked by trees; through a gap on the southwest side was a view of the real Fuji, although today it was lost in the haze. It was 2pm so I sat on one of the benches for a late lunch. After half an hour, I headed down a switchback trail on the south side.

Snowy Section of the Fureai no Michi

Looking back at Haga-Fuji

This was by far the most pleasant part of the hike. Halfway down and slightly off the trail, I had a view to the south of Mt Amamaki and Mt Takamine, as well as the Ogodo Alps. I soon reached the base, and after passing Kumano shrine and Anzen-ji temple (安善寺), was back on countryside lanes. Turning around at the top of a slope, I could admire the conical shape of today’s peak. Another hour of uneventful walking brought me to a bus stop near Nanai station; a little after 4pm I boarded the bus for Utsunomiya, where I hopped on the shinkansen for the short trip back to Tokyo.

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Mt Takatori (219m), Oiso Town, Kanagawa Prefecture, Saturday, February 3, 2024

I was looking for a suitable winter hike in the Tokyo area. While checking my map, I spotted a section of the Kanagawa Kanto Fureai no Michi I had yet to explore, connecting the Tokaido line with the Odakyu line. Although it mostly followed back roads through the countryside, the first section was up a minor peak on a forested plateau, from the top of which I hoped to get some views.

Hiking the Kanto Fureai no Michi

I would ride the Shonan-Shinjuku line from Ikebukuro to Ninomiya station on the Shonan coast, and then take a bus to a stop near the start of the trail, skipping a one-hour section through Oiso Town. For the return, I could catch a bus for Hadano Station near Kaname River, since I had already done the next section for Mt Koubou, and then ride the Romancecar limited express back to Tokyo. If had time, I’d be able to get a hot bath at the nearby Manyo-no-Yu.

関東ふれあいの道

The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning and overcast in the early afternoon; although it was a short hike, I decided to get an early start to take advantage of the good weather. I was looking forward to a relaxing hike through a new area close to home.

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Bamboo forest (left) and steep slope (right) at the start of the hike

Walking on the top ridge (left) and up the steps (right)

Walking down to (left) and up from Kirifuri Keiryu (right)

It was a 90-minute train ride under clear blue skies to Ninomiya station where I boarded a bus for the short ride to Higashi-no-Ike (東の池), a reedy pond with a shrine on an islet. After getting ready, I located a sign for the Fureai no Michi and set off, a little before 11am, through a residential neighbourhood. Past a bamboo forest, the road rose sharply, and after a few minutes of climbing under tall cedars, I reached the ridge top, where I turned right, onto a level hiking path through the forest.

Clearing at the Top of Kirifuri Keiryu

View East towards Yokohama and the Miura Peninsula

I was amazed to be on such a lovely trail, reminding me of Kamakura, but minus the crowds. It was mostly in the trees but I did get a glimpse of Hakone through a gap on the west side. At 1130, I passed under a stone Shinto gate and made my way up a series of log steps, at the top of which I arrived at Takatori Shrine (鷹取神社). A little beyond, and slightly off the trail on the left side, was the top of Mt Takatori (鷹取山たかとりやま) surrounded by forest. I couldn’t see a summit marker but my GPS confirmed the spot. I sat down on a sunny tree trunk for a short break.

View North from Yurugi Hill

Tanzawa from Yurugi Hill

I basked in the sunshine and listened to the birdsong, before setting off again at noon, down a dirt road leading to a turn-off for Kirifuri Stream (霧降渓り流 kirifuri-keiryu). I decided to check it out since according to my map, I could do a short loop along a river valley (the full trail continues to Shonan-Daira). I soon arrived at a clearing around an electric pylon, and was rewarded with a view of Yokohama and the Miura peninsula to the east. A little further, I turned righ, descending steeply into the valley, and then took another path on the left, leading up to some fields on top of Yurugi Hill (ゆるぎの丘 yurugi-no-oka).

Mt Oyama and Plum Blossoms from the Fureai no Michi

Mt Nabewari (left), Mt Tono (middle) and Mt Oyama (right)

It was the best view of the day, and would have made a great lunch spot if there had been a place to sit. To the north, I could see the Tanzawa mountains, with the triangular top of Mt Oyama at the very right. I turned left again and soon arrived back at the clearing, thus completing my loop. Minutes later, I was back on the Fureai no Michi. From then on, I followed peaceful back roads meandering through the countryside. I had occasional views of the Tanzawa range, including one from a roadside bench where I had lunch at 1h30. The clouds had started to roll in from the west, and although, they hadn’t yet reached the sun, I quickened my pace.

View of the Tanzawa Range Extending Westwards

Bright Red Shinto Gates at Myoen-ji Temple

I was surprised by the many plum trees in full bloom, very early for the season. At 2pm I reached the photogenic Myoen-ji Temple (妙圓寺) with its flapping banners and bright red “torii” catching the last of the sun. Before moving on, I ventured into a small cave within the temple grounds and followed an underground passage till it became too low to continue. After passing Daijoin Temple, with its huge plum tree in full flower, I arrived at Nanpei Bridge (南平橋) at 3pm, where I caught one of the frequent buses for Hadano station. I had enough time for the hot spring bath, so I was refreshed for the one-hour trip back to Shinjuku.

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Mt Fuji (220m) & Shirogane-Daira (195m), Hidaka City, Saitama Prefecture, Tuesday, January 30, 2024

I wanted to do a short hike to get back into shape after a three-week break. I settled upon going on a weekday morning, as other commitments and poor weather had prevented me from going the previous weekend. I decided to do a hike up a minor peak on the eastern edge of the Oku-Musashi hills, planned last year and kept in reserve for a cold winter day. Although it shared a name with Japan’s most famous volcano due its conical summit, the climb would be a lot less arduous. I was more interested in the nearby observation deck and its view of the Kanto plain. To round out the hike, I would make a short roundtrip to a nearby waterfall. I would take the Laview limited express to Hanno, and there, ride a bus north towards Hidaka City. I would then make my way to Koma station on the Seibu-Chichibu line, from where I could catch a train for Hanno. The weather forecast was sunny and warmer than the previous days, which was good news since I would be starting earlier in the day. I was looking forward to a morning hike in the forested hills close to Tokyo after a few weeks off.

Hiking in Oku-Musashi 奥武蔵

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Start of the Hike (left) Trail past Shirogane-Daira (right)

Trail past Takizawa Falls

It was sunny, cold day as I rode the limited express train to Hanno. After a 40-minute bus ride, roughly the same duration as the train ride, I got off at a stop a little after 9am, a few minutes on foot from Ten Shrine (天神社) and the start of the hike. After getting ready and quickly checking out shrine, I set off around 9h30. I headed up a paved road leading past Komagawa Country Club and took a left at a signboard of today’s hiking route, featuring the birds “Kurikka” and “Kurippi”, Hidaka City’s mascots.

Walking up Mt Fuji

The Shirogane-Daira Observation Deck

I was delighted to be walking in nature, tall pines on both sides, the sun shining down from above; to my right was the Komagawa golf course, a low fence protecting me from stray balls. At 10am, I reached the hiking trail, beyond a stone “torii” (shinto gate). Very soon the path rose steeply, but I had barely broken a sweat when I emerged onto the sunny top of Mt Fuji (富士山ふじやま fujiyama). Despite being in the sun, the top area was surrounded by trees. As I took a break next to the small summit shrine, a helicopter darted across the sky, probably headed to the nearby Tokorozawa airfield.

View Northeast of the Kanto Plain from Shirogane-Daira

View East of the Kanto Plain from Shirogane-Daira

I set off down a steep series of steps, at the end of which I turned left along a level path, and soon reached the Observation Deck at Shirogane-Daira (白銀平しろがねだいら), at 10h30. From the top of the white, square structure, I had a view of the Kanto plain on the east side. Apparently Mt Tsukuba, Mt Nantai, Mt Akagi, the Tanzawa mountains and even Mt Fuji are visible, but I couldn’t make them out despite the clear skies. However, I could see the Tokyo skyscrapers, as well as Seibu dome; turning around I could see Mt Hiwada and Mt Monomi above the trees on the west side. After a late breakfast, I retraced my steps and followed a path along the mountain side.

Trail between Shirogane-Daira and Takizawa Falls

Wooden Carved Pillars outside Koma Station

I was surprised to see such beautiful forest so close to the big city. All too soon, I reached a paved road next to another golf course. I turned right, and shortly after, rejoined the trail on the left, taking me to the turnoff for the Takizawa Falls (滝沢の滝). I had seen more impressive waterfalls, although the dry winter season might be to blame, and quickly headed back to the main trail. After a short up and down along a sunny trail, I popped onto a pleasant countryside lane, ending at a busy road for Koma station, where I arrived shortly after noon. After admiring the two demon pillars guarding the station building, I hopped onto the local train for Hanno, just 2 stops away, and then boarded the express train for Ikebukuro.