April 2025 – Hiking Around Tokyo

I wanted to do one more hike in Chiba. I also wanted to get there and back via public transport. Finally, I wanted to explore more of the Chiba Kanto Fureai no Michi. I decided to combine two of its shorter sections, heading south to north from Ohara Beach to Taito beach, the latter also the starting point of the 90 kilometer long Kujukuri Beach. Although I wouldn’t be standing on any peaks, I’d be walking nearly 20 kilometers with a view of the Pacific ocean for most of the way.

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Hiking along the Kanto Fureai no Michi　関東ふれあいの道

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Wakashio Limited Express from Tokyo station to Ohara station. For the return, I could ride the Sotobo line just one stop from Torami to Kazusa-Ichinomiya, and there change to the Wakashio Limited Express for Shinjuku. The weather was supposed to be cold and sunny all day, a typical Japanese winter day. I was looking forward to a long day of mostly level walking along the Pacific Ocean.

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Following Niida River to Ohara Beach

Cycling road along Ohara Coast

After a pleasant train ride under blue skies, I arrived at Ohara station a little before noon. After getting ready, I followed the signs for the Kanto Fureai no Michi to Niida river, where I turned right along a pedestrian path. At 1230, I spotted a palm tree, a sign that I was getting close to a beach area. Soon after, I could see the ocean, waves rolling in at regular intervals. I turned left, now walking in the sand along Ohara beach (大原海岸).

Looking back at Hachiman Cape

Looking forward to Taito Cape

I was surprised to see a couple of surfers on this cold winter day. Eventually, I made my way to the cycling path running parallel to the beach, easier to walk than the sandy beach. Directly ahead, I could see Taito cape, the halfway point of today’s walk. Just before 1h30, I reached the end of the beach; the path turned left and right, heading straight alongside a reedy inlet.

Heading straight….

…alongside a Reedy Inlet

The quiet waters of the inlet created a nice contrast with the crashing waves of the ocean, waterfowl lazily floating on the calm surface. After passing a couple of slender antennas, I reached Izumiura Beach (和泉浦海岸) where I turned left along the Isumi river. Looking left across the fields, I could see a series of low hills, a hint of the hilly interior of the boso peninsula. I turned right at Koto Bridge and then followed small roads through the fields, ending at Taito Seaside (Taito-Kaihin 台東海浜) at the base of Taito cape.

Approaching Taito Cape

Walking next to Isumi River

I observed the waves crash onto the waves breakers for a short while, and then headed inland, following the familiar Fureai no Mich signposts. A little after 2h30, I arrived at Taisho Dam, where I turned right, heading uphill for the first time today. At 3pm, I arrived at Taito Cape Lighthouse (太東崎灯台), the highest point of the day.

Taito Cape from Isumi River

Walking through the Fields

I was delighted by the vast expanse of blue ocean under a cloudless sky on the east side. Looking south, I had a bird’s-eye view of Izumiura Bay and Isumi river. I sat on one of the many benches for a late lunch with a view. I realised that my pace had been too leisurely up to now, so I soon moved on, retracing my steps down to sea level. Heading northwards at a quick pace, I came upon Suzume-jima (雀島 meaning swallow island) at 3h30, much faster than I had expected.

Taito Cape from Taito Seaside

Taisho Dam near Taito Cape

I was lucky to reach this photogenic rocky island while it was till bathed in sunlight. After enjoying the view of the yellow cliffs surrounded by blue sea, I continued northwards, and past a tunnel and a seaside resort, reached the entrance of the Taito Hiking Trail (太東ハイキングコース). Sadly this side of the trail had become overgrown and was now permanently closed. I followed the road till it merged with a busy thoroughfare, but soon turned right, heading towards Taito Beach (太東海岸). Very soon, I spotted the other end of the hiking trail, a series of steps leading up a bluff on the right side.

View of Izumiura Bay and Isumi River from Taito Cape

Deep Blue Pacific Ocean from Taito Cape

I was excited to be finally walking on an actual hiking trail. At the top of the steps, I crossed a wide, level grassy space ending at another series of steps. Between the vegetation on the left side, I had glimpses of Kujukurihama beach, today’s final destination. At 4pm, I popped out onto the Taito Hiking Trail Observation Point (太東ハイキングコース展望台 47m) where I once again had a wide view of the Pacific Ocean on the east side.

Swallow Island past Taito Cape

Hiking Trail for the Observation Point

Suddenly, I noticed a bird of prey circling overhead, always a pleasure to observe wildlife on a hike. After a short break, I made my way back down to the base of the bluff and continued along the main road. It was getting late so I decided to skip the last part along the beach, having visited it in the past, and head straight for the station.

Taito Beach at the Start of Kujukurihama

Heading Back from the Observation Point

Along the way I was rewarded with some very early plum blossoms, probably due to the mild seaside climate. A little before 5pm, I reached Torami Station, one of the most undeveloped stations I had ever been to. After riding one stop to Kazusa-Ichinomiya station, I hopped onto the limited express for the one hour ride back to Shinjuku. The Kanto Fureai Michi continues past Torami and connects with the Kasamori Green Path, so one day I hope to return to continue my exploration of this network of trails surrounding the Tokyo area.

Watch a video of the Ohara to Taito Beach Hike

Watch the Video of the Hike on YouTube

See a Slideshow of More Pictures of the Hike

I found this hike, through the low hills at the edge of western Tanzawa, in one of my guidebooks; in addition to a view from the highest point, it also passed by an observation tower, seemingly a characteristic of the area. It was a little on the short side, but looking at maps online, I saw it was possible to extend it northeast and also include one more observation tower.

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Hiking in the Tanzawa Mountains 丹沢山地

To get to the start of the hike, I’d ride the Odakyu line limited express to Atsugi, and then board a bus for the Tobio locality, at the southern end of the hills. For the return, I’d catch a bus back to Atsugi near the northern end. The weather was supposed to be sunny in the morning, turning cloudy in the afternoon. I was looking forward to a relaxing winter hike with views of the Tanzawa mountains and the Kanto Plain.

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Trail at the Start of the Hike (left) Trail past the Tower (right)

Steep Climb before Mt Tobio (left) Road for Mt Hasuge (right)

I sped south under blue skies comfortably seated on the “Romance Car”, arriving at Atsugi a little before 1030. There, I boarded a half-full bus for the half-hour ride to Tobio Danchi. After a short walk through a residential neighbourhood, I reached the start of the hiking trail at 1130 at the top of a long staircase. After following a level trail for a short while, I arrived at Sannosha (山王社), a Shinto Shrine at the edge of the forest with a view of the Kanto Plain on the eastern side.

View of the Kanto Plain from Sansho Shrine

Trail between Sannosha and Konpirasha Shrines

I was delighted to get a view so soon, even only of a flat urbanscape. After quickly checking out the shrine, I continued on my way, and soon arrived at Konpirasha (金毘羅社), another Shinto shrine, this one with a photogenic red “torii” or “Shinto gate”. It was completely in the forest, but a little further along the trail, I came upon the equally photogenic yellow konpirasan Observation Tower (金比羅山展望台 also known as the Mt Tobio Observation Tower).

View Southeast of Kanagawa from the Observation Tower

View Northeast of Tokyo from the Observation Tower

It was one of the tallest observation towers I’d ever been up; unfortunately, bare branches still reached high enough to partly interfere with the view of the Tanzawa mountains on the western side; I could still make out the triangular summit of Mt Oyama, as well as Mt Kyogatake, Mt Bukka and Mt Takatori; on the eastern side was the flat Kanto plain, Tokyo’s skyscrapers lost in the haze. Looking south, I could see the elevated plateau stretching from Shonan Daira to Hadano city. To the north, I could observe the entire length of the hills I’d be hiking today.

View of Western Tanzawa from the Observation Tower

Mt Oyama from the Observation Tower

This was probably the best view of the day, and once satisfied, I headed down the stairs to continue my hike. The trail first went downhill, then became level near a rock mining area, before climbing steeply. Before I could break a sweat, I found myself at the top of Mt Tobio (鳶尾山とびおさん tobio-san), known for its cherry blossoms trees, although in this season the branches were still bare. I had a view once again of the Kanto plain; northwards were the Okutama mountains, the distinctive shape of Mt Odake clearly visible in the far distance. Since it was just past 1pm, I sat on a sunny bench for lunch with a view. Once done, I set off again.

Trail past the Observation Tower

Level Section before Mt Tobio

I followed a level trail surrounded by mixed forest, the most pleasant part of the hike so far, hiding the nearby city for a short while. I eventually reached a paved road at Yanami Pass (やなみ峠), the end of the Mt Tobio Hiking Trail. Here, I turned right onto the road as it descended gently through the forest. Just past a small creek at a bend, I spotted a series of log steps heading steeply up the mountain side. Clouds had covered the entire sky at an astonishing speed bringing a chill to what had been so far a pleasant winter day. I quickly made my way up the steps to warm my chilled body.

Bench at the Top of Mt Tobio

View of the City from Mt Tobio

I was glad to be back on a hiking trail, even for a short while. At 2h30, I arrived at the the top of Mt Hasuge (八菅山 200m) and the Mt Hasuge Observation Tower (八菅山展望台), about half the height of the previous one. The view, only on the east side, was also less spectacular, possibly due to the white cloud cover and lower elevation. After checking out the nearby Hasuge Shrine (八菅神社), I continued northwards, now on a wide, level dirt track, trees on both sides. After a while, I reached a fence on the west side, beyond which I could see a golf course, the Nakatsugawa Country Club.

Trail past Mt Tobio

Tanzawa Mountains beyond the Green

Beyond the green, I could see the dark outline of the Tanzawa mountains under grey clouds. A little further, I reached a road and an electric pylon at the top of the country club. Here, I turned left, descending between the greens, passing the club house and its huge parking lot. At 3h30 I reached the base of the mountain and after a short walk through the countryside, arrived at a bus stop on a busy road. Here and there, I could see the first plum blossoms of the season. A little later, I was on the bus for Atsugi, and at 5pm I boarded the Romance car for the one hour trip back to Tokyo.